Onion planting and care in the open field from sevka

It is quite easy to grow high-quality onion heads from sets, especially since the technology has many advantages. High productivity is noted, rapid maturation of root crops, the release of arrows happens less often than when growing with a turnip. With proper care, outdoor planting is straightforward.

It is possible to sow sevok at the dacha in the northern regions, Siberian regions and Novosibirsk. It is important to follow the sowing rules, take care of it properly and protect it from frost.

The correct timing for planting onion sets in the open field

The optimal period for planting work is end of April... The early term is due to the culture's resistance to cold. A method of growing onions from sets planted before winter (in the second half of October) is also used.

Planting seedlings at a later time leads to rapid drying of the upper layer, as a result of which the soil quickly loses the moisture accumulated over the winter. This negatively affects the rooting of the bulbs, which delays the emergence of seedlings. As a result, the roots do not fully ripen.

In the Urals and in the regions of Siberia, they plan to plant a sevka from the beginning of May (from 5-10 numbers) when the soil temperature is from +7 degrees.

It is not worth delaying planting work, this will reduce the yield. But there is also no need to rush to throw planting material into cold ground, this will lead to the release of arrows during the development of feathers.

For a good harvest, planting work should not be delayed

Methods for growing and planting onions

The place for the beds is selected well lit by sunlight and ventilated... This is necessary for normal vegetation, exclusion of the formation of rot and fungal diseases.

The soil is suitable light fertile with a neutral or slightly acidic medium... To reduce acidity, lime is introduced into the soil (up to 4-5 kg ​​per hundred square meters). Also suitable for this purpose: dolomite flour, wood ash, crushed chalk.

It is not worth breaking up the beds at the place where the garlic is grown, the land after the spicy crop is very depleted, which will reduce the onion yield. But after tomatoes, eggplants, pumpkins, cereals and potatoes, you can plant a set.

When enriching the soil with fertilizers, it is not worthwhile to simultaneously introduce lime into it, as this leads to a significant decrease in the amount of nitrogen. And it is necessary for normal vegetation.

When preparing the beds for onions in the fall, humus is applied to the site (up to 5 kg per m2). In the course of work, the earth is dug to a depth 20 cm... Spring work begins with cleaning the area from debris and fertilizing the soil with minerals. Superphosphate (6 g / m2), urea (1 g / m2), potassium chloride (2 g / m2) are scattered over the ground and cultivated.

An obligatory preparatory step is soil disinfection. To do this, 7 days before planting, it is watered with a solution of copper sulfate (a tablespoon of the product in a bucket of water).

A solution of copper sulfate is used to disinfect the soil.

The planting material also needs to be decontaminated before planting. Proper preparation affects yield and the resistance of the crop to diseases and pests. Sevka processing consists of the following stages:

• soaking in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (copper sulfate 0.35%);
• drying followed by 20-day storage at temperature +20 degrees;
• warming up the heads for 10 hours at a temperature +40 degrees;
• seed treatment with a growth stimulant.

Onion sets are grown in several ways:

• in the spring;
• before winter;
• in a greenhouse;
• by the bridge method.

In the spring in the garden

Spring disembarkation is carried out according to the scheme:

• row spacing for manual processing of beds - 25 cm (in the presence of a walk-behind tractor - 60-72 cm);
• distance between holes - from 5 to 10 cm;
• immersion depth - 3-4 cm.

Planting onion sets in spring

The spacing between the heads is selected depending on the diameter of the bulbs used: up to 10 mm you need to indent 5 cm, up to 15 mm - 8 cm, over 15-20 mm - 10 cm.

After planting, the bed is mulched with a layer (2-3 cm) of peat, paper, sawdust or other suitable materials.

Before winter in the soil

The method of planting seedlings before winter has several advantages:

• there is no need to provide storage conditions for seedlings in winter until mid-spring;
• early dates harvesting (mid-July);
• by the time the pests appear, the culture is fully formed and strengthened.

In the vacant place, you can manage to grow a crop of some fruits with a short ripening period.

The peculiarity of choosing a place for a garden bed is the preference for a site located on a hill. There the snow melts faster, moreover, stagnation of melt water is excluded.

Disembarkation time - from 5 to 20 October... Planting material should be properly prepared: calibrated, disinfected and warmed up. The scheme is used standard or with a narrow row spacing up to 15 cm... The embedment depth is 5 cm.

With the onset of cold weather, the surface of the garden bed is covered with mulching material. In the spring, the old protective layer must be removed.

In the greenhouse

Growing seedlings in a greenhouse involves a number of preparatory measures:

• disinfection of structural surfaces;
• loosening the soil;
• the introduction of humus (5 kg per 1 m2);
• fertilization of beds with minerals (superphosphate - 30 g., potassium chloride - 15 g.);
• mixing and leveling the soil.

The seed is selected with a diameter of 30-50 mm. Any bad material is discarded. in the second half of October according to the scheme:

• the distance between the heads is 20-25 cm;
• immersion depth - 4 cm.

Over the beds is lined with straw or sphagnum moss mulch with a layer up to 20 cm.

Spring work begins with harvesting mulch material before planting and growing. Next, fertilizers with nitroamofos are introduced twice (up to 15 g / m2). Irrigation is performed as needed. It begins to sprout actively in mid-April-early May. When the height of the feather reaches 20 cm, the crops are harvested from the beds.

Growing onions in a greenhouse

Mostovoy

This method of growing onions on a feather is used more often on balconies or in small greenhouses. The essence of the technology is to deepen the seedlings into the ground in one row at a minimum rate no head spacing... Thus, a bridge is obtained, which served as the name of the method.

For bridging cultivation, onions with a diameter of 3-5 cm are selected. Care includes watering and weeding. The soil must be constantly moist, it is important to water it on time in the right proportions.

From baits it is recommended to use:

• superphosphate and potassium chloride - 2 g / 10 l of water;
• ammonium nitrate.

Groundbaits are introduced on the 8th and 14th day of the growing season.

Bridge method of planting onion sets

When it rises

When growing seedlings in the open field during spring planting, seedlings appear above the soil surface for 9-11 days... If the planting work was carried out in October, then the first greens break through, depending on the weather conditions, more often this happens in early to mid-April.

Greenhouse cultivation also guarantees different periods of emergence of seedlings, which is due to the variety of construction and the thermal conductivity of its surfaces. In the most ordinary polycarbonate greenhouse, you can see the greenery breaking through from the ground in late February and early March.

When using the bridge method of growing seedlings, you can get the first shoots 5-6 days after disembarkation.

How to care and loosen

For the growing season, it is important to saturate the soil with oxygen, remove weeds from the beds, water the seedlings and introduce groundbait.

After the emergence of seedlings above the surface of the soil, it is necessary loosen the soil every 2 weeks in the beds to prevent the formation of an earth crust.

Loosening of the soil must be carried out every 2 weeks.

This process is often combined with weeding to remove weeds, which creates favorable conditions for disease and onion decay. In addition, such a neighborhood contributes to the formation of a thick neck, which subsequently complicates the drying of the crop.

Onions belong to crops that can do without baits, but this is the case when the soil is fertile. Many gardeners use a 2-3 time bait regime:

• 20-25 days after planting the seedlings, watering with a manure solution is carried out (1 kg per bucket of water);
• loose application of mineral fertilizers (urea, nitrophoska) before irrigation.

Watering of the beds is carried out with strict control of the degree of soil moisture... Lack of moisture is just as unacceptable as its abundance. If you carefully observe the plant, you can understand what the slightest changes indicate. The water should not be salty, if it gets dirty, you need to drain a little from the bucket.

The appearance of a gray-white tint on the leaves indicates insufficient watering, and the pallor of the feathers indicates an abundance of moisture. For the first couple of months, the seedlings are irrigated weekly (7-8 liters per 1 m2). Since July, the amount of water is reduced, and 3 weeks before harvest it stops altogether.

Strict control of soil moisture is extremely important

To protect against onion flies, it is recommended to use saline watering, which also stimulates plant growth.

200 grams of salt is taken per bucket of water; prepare the amount of liquid at the rate of 300 ml per one bush. The procedure is repeated Once every 3 weeks... If the treatment turns out to be ineffective, the concentration should be increased to 450 g / 10 l of water.

Is it afraid of frost and what temperature it can withstand

Onions are afraid of freezing and freezing temperatures at night. The temperature indicators of the air during planting should be within +12 degrees, soils at a depth of 10 cm - at least +5 degrees. Planting material germinates at 4-5 degrees... Mature onions of specially selected varieties can withstand frost down to -7 degrees, while sweet varieties die at -4 degrees.

When choosing a set, the climatic conditions of the region should be taken into account in order to give preference to the appropriate varieties.

Onion care is quite simple if you perform the preparatory work correctly. Controlling the condition of the plant's feather will be a hint, and the action plan will not let you forget about the important procedures that guarantee a high yield.

Growing onions: advice from gardeners

Onions have been known to mankind for a very long time, and many dishes without it would simply lose their exquisite and unique taste.

Having appeared more than 4 thousand years ago in Ancient Egypt, this tasty and healthy vegetable remains a favorite among the crops grown on its own plot by gardeners today.

But we hasten to note that the cultivation of turnip onions from sets can be carried out not only for our own needs, but also in order to make a profit. What does the process of growing onions look like, and what are the features of its agricultural technology?

Process features

The onion business, like growing it for your own needs, requires certain knowledge.

If we talk about growing this crop as a business, then many gardeners come to this decision because it attracts not only the fertility of the plant, but also small initial cash investments in such a small business, as well as the year-round need of consumers for onions. If you understand all the nuances of the growing process, you can easily turn it from an ordinary truck gardening into a good business. What are the features of such a process that should be taken into account by both ordinary summer residents and those who seriously decide, after reading our article, to start their own small business?

It should be borne in mind that for onions it is important to choose a loose and nutritious soil. It is best to prefer a normally lit area for planting it.

This should not be neglected, since experts say that it is the length of natural daylight hours that is of great importance for the proper growth and full development of this vegetable crop.

Also, do not forget about moderate soil moisture. Watering the plant should be carried out during the period of intensive growth, after which the onion does not need water.

Pay attention to the groundwater - they should be located in an area far from the surface. During the cultivation process, you need to regularly weed the beds so that they do not overgrow with weeds.

If you are planning a business or growing onions for yourself, take care of planting it after such predecessors as tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers. It is not recommended to plant this vegetable crop where onions used to grow, as well as garlic or carrots.

Consider the fact that onions react negatively to soils with an increased level of acidity, on which it may become ill with downy mildew or poor absorption of nutrients. Our video will tell you about the features of the process in more detail.

The key advantage of growing onions as a business is their growth in almost any climatic zone. Also, when organizing their business, gardeners are convinced that caring for this vegetable does not require too much effort.

Growing technique

Today, such methods of growing onions are known - sowing seeds in the ground, seedling method, sowing seedlings and vegetative way (it is also called multi-bud onion).

If we talk about the regions of our country, it is worth noting that residents of the southern regions of Russia prefer to grow turnip seeds by sowing seeds, and in the middle lane they use the seedling method or plant sets on a turnip.

The vegetative method is most often used only by residents of the northern regions of our country.

What does the technology of growing everyone's favorite vegetable look like, which will be useful to those who decided to go into business? The first step is to decide on the choice of a good quality onion variety and prepare the soil for planting.

During the autumn preparation of the land, it is necessary not only to get rid of weeds, but also to feed it with superphosphate, and also to dig it up.In early spring, cultivation technology involves pre-planting soil fertilization.

To do this, you need humus, which is brought in at the rate of about 6 kg per square meter. Then the beds are dug up and formed.

Complex fertilizing is also scattered on them - nitroammophoska and wood ash have proven themselves perfectly. The soil is still spilled with a solution of copper sulfate, after which it is covered with a film before planting the seedlings.

Our video will tell you in more detail about the technique of growing onions.

Onion cultivation traditionally takes place in several stages - in the first year it is customary to sow seeds, which are called nigella, in the second year they plant onion sets obtained from it.

And already in the third year, in order to get seeds, you can plant adult bulbs. Most often, our gardeners prefer to grow onions from seed sets, which today can be grown independently from seeds or purchased in specialized stores.

This is the agricultural technique of everyone's favorite vegetable, which takes pride of place in our diet.

Sowing black onions

It is customary to call nigella seeds of onions, from which a set is then obtained - a small-sized bulb for growing them in a two-year-old plant. Its sowing technology is not as complicated as it might seem to inexperienced gardeners at first glance.

To begin with, you should select large bulbs, which are placed in the ground in early spring. Planting before winter is also possible, while mulch is also formed on the beds for protection.

In the summer, umbrellas with small black seeds appear from such bulbs.

It is strongly recommended to plant dill and calendula on the onion bed, while the former will be able to prevent the appearance of pests, and the latter will not let the plants get sick with nematodes. To prevent the appearance of a dangerous onion fly, carrots can be grown next to nigella.

What is the agricultural technique of the chernushka? All weeds and their roots must be removed before sowing. The best predecessors for nigella are cucumbers, peas, cabbage, potatoes, beans.

If, in the process of growing them, the land received a sufficient amount of manure, then when sowing nigella, you can do without making - both compost and humus.

If the soil for sowing turns out to be sufficiently moist, then nigella may not be germinated before planting. The technology of sowing nigella allows you to plant it both in rows and randomly.

Seeds should not be buried too deep in the ground - it is enough for them to be placed 2 cm from the surface.

Proper watering of the beds must be carried out before seedlings emerge.

If you are dealing with a clayey or floating type of soil, then the crust that appears on the surface must be loosened without fail in order to allow the sprouts to hatch normally. For the first time, it is necessary to thin out seedlings after emergence.

It is advised to leave a distance of at least 2 cm between the seedlings. Then, during the second thinning, it should be increased to 6 cm. All watering should be stopped about 20 days before harvesting nigella.

Experts advise cultivating such onion varieties as Belovezhsky, Yantarny, Spassky, Strigunovsky, Stuttgarten, Myachkovsky, Bessonovsky through nigella. Our video will tell the best about growing nigella.

How to grow from sevka

Growing onions from sets, which are obtained from nigella, is nowadays the most popular method among gardeners in all regions of Russia.

But most of all, this method is suitable for residents of the northern regions, where, due to the peculiarities of the climate, the bulbs do not have the opportunity to ripen normally.

That is why growing onions from seeds is so urgent and practically the only possible for them. This onion has almost 100% germination.

Before planting, it, like the nigella, should be sorted out. It is best to plant bulbs up to 2.5 cm in size.The sevok that you have grown yourself does not need pre-heating.

If you bought it in a store, be sure to place it in a cardboard box on a battery before planting, the warm-up time is at least 8 hours. Also, the sowing must be soaked in a complex mineral fertilizer - such as nitroammofoska.

It should be dissolved in 10 liters of water. Processing time is up to 10 hours. Growth stimulants, such as Epin, Zircon, Humisol, have also proven themselves well.

It is also recommended to disinfect Sevok, and a solution of copper sulfate will help you with this at the rate of 1 teaspoon of the product per 10 liters of water.

So that the bow does not go into the arrow, it is necessary to plant it at a time when the ambient temperature rises to +10 degrees. There are some features of sevka agricultural technology.

In the northern regions of the country, it is advised to plant it at the end of May, and in the middle lane this time falls in the middle of the month. Sowing should be carried out in rows, the distance between which is left somewhere 20 cm.

And between the bulbs themselves, you need to leave up to 10 cm. Be sure to dip the root of the bulbs in wood ash. After planting, the bulb should ideally be at a depth of about 6 cm. After planting, the soil should be sprinkled with peat.

The first shoots should be expected after a week. This is, in brief, the agricultural technique of sevka, a video about the planting of which you can watch here.

Care

Caring for onions that you grow either for yourself or in order to start a business and receive a stable income includes several important steps. At least twice a week, you need to provide your beds with sufficient moisture.

Regular watering should be reduced only after a period of intensive crop growth. And a couple of weeks before harvesting, they should be stopped altogether. Also, the earth must be loosened, and do it as often as possible.

In order for the bulbs to have the opportunity to grow well, after they become medium in size, it is recommended to shake off the soil from them. Proper care also includes weeding. It is on the beds overgrown with weeds that conditions favorable for the development of fungal infections are created.

And the onion may well grow too thick a neck, and then it will not be easy to dry it.

Planting care also involves feeding with organic and other fertilizers. For the first time, it is carried out two weeks after planting the seedlings. Of organic fertilizers, poultry manure, mullein, ammonium nitrate have proven themselves well.

The first two products should be used at the rate of 1 liter per 10 liters of water, and nitrate takes about 30 grams. The second time, with proper care, fertilizers are applied after 2-3 weeks.

To do this, it is best to take chicken manure or mullein, to which superphosphate and potassium dressing are added - about 30 grams of each product.

A third fertilization is needed when the bulbs are at their maximum size. To do this, it is advised to use the Fertilizer fertilizer with 1 tablespoon of superphosphate dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Another important step in the care is the treatment with a solution of copper sulfate - 1 teaspoon of the product, 1 tablespoon of liquid soap per 10 liters of water. This is the best prevention of the development of fungus in onion plants.

Processing is carried out at the rate of half a liter of solution per square meter. A mixture of tobacco dust and wood ash is also well suited for this purpose.

Source

How to plant onions correctly so that large bulbs grow

Onions are a vegetable that almost every summer resident grows. In cooking, these sweet or spicy fruits are simply indispensable, because in some recipes, onions are the main ingredient.

Before planting seeds in a summer cottage and collecting a good harvest, you need to know what kind of soil the onion loves, what temperature is suitable for planting seedlings in open ground and how to properly plant an onion crop in order to enjoy high yields at the end of the season.

Let's consider each stage separately, let's start, perhaps, with the soil and its autumn preparation.

Preparing the soil for spring planting

Before doing land work, you need to choose a place to plant small bulbs.

As many gardeners know, bulbs love warmth and light, in the shade the plant will quickly wither and the fruits will be small, so when choosing a site, give preference to the beds in the middle of the garden, next to which there are no trees and no buildings. Found such a place? Great, now you need to check if the soil in the garden is suitable for growing onions. To do this, it is better to use a litmus paper. She will determine the type of soil in no time. It will be very good if your land is sandy or sandy. It is in it that the onion develops a powerful root system and is able to ripen faster before harvesting.

In the fall, the onion bed must be fertilized with ripe manure or ash. There are many nutrients in these components, therefore, it is advisable to apply humus for 1 square meter of 6 kg of fertilizer.

Dig up the entire bed to a depth of 20 cm, remembering to remove weeds and other debris that will come across during digging.

After fertilization, level the topsoil with a rake and leave alone until spring.

Attention! Preparing the garden is an important point, it is on this operation that the yield of fruits depends.

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and it will be possible to go out into the garden, it is recommended to re-dig the area under the onion so that the nutrients are evenly distributed over the top layer of the earth.

Now it remains to prepare the onions for planting, wait for the optimal temperature for heating the soil, plant the crops in open ground and take care of the plant to obtain a juicy, large harvest.

Preparation of planting material

Do not rush to plant onions in the spring, because in order for the germination rate of the seed to be almost 100%, you need to sort out and process the onions with special solutions that will protect the crop from diseases and pests.

So, first sort out the low-quality planting material, removing all damaged, dry and diseased specimens. Distribute a good set in different piles in diameter.

This will allow you to grow your turnips evenly.

After sorting, hold each group for about three days at a temperature of 35 degrees, if this is not possible, then simply ignite the onion for about 4 hours at 40 degrees in the oven.

Processing onions before planting, thus, activates metabolic processes and improves germination.

After drying, transfer the seedlings to the diluted fertilizer for 1/3 days, then dip the seedlings in a weak manganese solution for 5-10 minutes, rinse the onions under running water and you can safely plant the onions on an unprotected surface.

How to properly plant onions on a turnip

You have already done the basic procedures, prepared the seedlings and dug up the garden. Now is the time to plant the onion in open ground.

In order for the planting process to be successful and soon juicy green feathers appeared on the beds, you need to choose a time when the soil warms up to 12 degrees and will be able to accept "tenants".

Usually, spring planting falls in the third decade of April or the first decade of May. For farming, it is better to choose cloudy, dry weather and you need to start from the land.

You already know how to prepare a bed for seeding, all that remains is to make holes or grooves and plant the planting material. In the first and second options, it is important to follow these rules:

• the distance from sevka to sevka should be at least 15 cm;
• the distance between rows should not exceed 30 cm;
• the planting depth of the seedling is 7-10 cm.

After planting, be sure to water the beds with settled water at room temperature.

If you have planted the seedlings too close, then after a while, thin out the rows, otherwise the plant will not have enough nutrients during the growing season, the growth of the bulbs will noticeably deteriorate and it is likely that the root system of the turnips will become entangled with each other.

Planting onions in July

If you want to harvest the onions twice in the summer, we recommend planting a second set in July.However, this option is only suitable for southern cities, where the summer season ends in mid or late September.

In order for the onion to grow, you need to use only early ripening varieties, which will just finish ripening by the end of August. How to plant onions in July? The same as in May.

The soaked seed is sown in the prepared recesses and after the leaves appear, the usual care of the plant begins.

Sowing with seeds

It is known that onions are a perennial plant, so you can get a turnip only in the second or third year. However, some gardeners buy sets and grow onions in one season.

Other summer residents grow onions by planting seeds in the ground, this process delays the harvest, but you can grow high-quality seedlings, which next year will bring large fruits of onion heads.

Seeds are also recommended to be processed before planting, and how to do this correctly - we will now find out.

First, soak the seeds in warm water for a day. Soaking the onions in a convenient container before planting will help you sort out empty seeds. It is they who will end up on the surface of the bowl, and the good ones will settle to the bottom of the dish.

After 24 hours, drain the water from the container along with the floating seeds, they will definitely not be useful to us, because they will not be useful. Transfer the rest of the planting material to gauze or cotton cloth, remove in the shade until crumbly.

Then process the seeds with a manganese solution and dry them again. The onion seeds are ready for planting.

Attention! If there is no manganese, and you do not know what to soak the onion in before planting, use copper sulfate, after dissolving the crystals in water.

For sowing seeds, make grooves in the garden bed, 2-4 cm deep.Leave the row spacing from 10 to 30 cm.

Then pour plenty of hot water over the indentations for antibacterial soil treatment and sow the seeds 1 to 3 cm apart. Water the bed again with water at room temperature, cover it with foil. After the appearance of the first leaves, the need for shelter will disappear.

Outdoor onion care

How to properly care for this plant is known mainly to experienced gardeners, but we want to remind you once again what care is. First of all, the onion needs moisture, so water it once a week with plenty of settled water.

If the summer is dry, then increase watering up to two times in 7 days. In general, make sure that the ground is always slightly moistened and then problems with growing onions will not begin.

After each "water" procedure, loosen the top layer of the soil, so as not to violate air permeability. Do not forget to remove weeds and process the onions with copper sulfate to prevent infection with fungal and viral diseases.

For the entire growing season, feed the plant three times with organic or mineral fertilizers.

Attention! In July, watering is gradually reduced so that the onions have time to ripen before harvesting.

Chinese way of growing bulbs

Planting onions in the Chinese way has become popular only because of the high yield of fruits, whose sizes can break all records. First of all, prepare the beds, or rather the ridges.

Raise each ridge by 15-20 cm, leave a distance of at least 30 cm between the rows.

Now prepare the material for planting, for this, spread the set on a baking sheet in one layer and heat it in the oven for 12 hours at 40 degrees.

Then remove the husk from the set, cut off the dry neck and soak the material in warm water for a day. What to soak onions before planting for better germination? In water with slurry. Such a solution will saturate the seedlings with nitrogen, and the plant will grow better. Then you can plant the onions in the ground.

To know when to plant onions using the Chinese method, you need to distribute the onions into fractions before processing the seedlings. The first group, which has not reached a diameter of 10 mm, is best planted before winter.

The second is 15 mm, ideal for planting in spring, namely in early April. The third is 20 mm, it is advisable to plant in early May, the rest of the sets are suitable only for forcing onions on a feather.

Sevok has been prepared, let's now see how to plant onions in the Chinese way, and how to properly care for the seedlings so that there are large bulbs.

Stick the onions 2-3 cm into the moistened grooves, sprinkle with earth and lightly tamp the top layer with your hands. Water the ridge liberally. Loosen the ground by re-circulating air.

It is advisable to carry out the procedure early in the morning, while the sun does not bake as much as during the day.

During cultivation, turnips will need simple maintenance, which consists of watering weekly, removing weeds, loosening the soil, and applying fertilizers.

It is also worth noting that three weeks before harvesting (usually in July), gradually stop watering, free the turnip from the ground by half, and leave only the root system in the ground a week before harvesting.

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How to plant winter onions?

Winter varieties mean planting a plant for the winter.

Therefore, let's find out how to prepare the soil, what fertilizers are best to apply before planting an onion crop, is it possible to plant seedlings a week before frost, how to care for a plant before mulching and, in general, when to plant onions in order to harvest green feathers in early spring, and in summer to get juicy turnip.

The plant should be planted one month before frost.

This framework was not set for nothing, because if the sevok does not acquire a root system before the arrival of cold weather, the plant will die, and if green feathers make their way through the soil ahead of time, this can lead to early shooting.

Therefore, it is so important to know the exact date of planting, given your climate. In areas with short summers, planting is best done in mid or late August. In the southern regions, onions can be planted in the fall, but no later than mid-October.

In order not to disrupt the crop rotation, choose a non-shaded garden bed on the sunny side, where vegetables such as zucchini, tomatoes, cucumbers, peas, potatoes or legumes previously grew.

Dig up the selected place with 6 kg humus and 20 g superphosphate per 1 sq. m.

Form grooves on each bed, 5-8 cm deep, the distance between which should not be less than 25 cm.

Before planting the seedlings, sort through, sift out the spoiled material, divide the rest into piles by diameter, for sowing before winter, an onion with a diameter of no more than a centimeter is ideal, the rest of the material is subject to spring cultivation.

Process the sevok in rose water with the addition of a potassium permanganate crystal or use boric acid. Keep the planting material in the prepared solutions for about 2 hours, then rinse them with water.

Next, dip it into a growth stimulator and plant it in the grooves, leaving a distance of 10-15 cm between the onions. Sprinkle the onion with earth and pour plenty of water.

In addition to sevka, you can also plant seeds.

To do this, fill the planting material with water for a couple of hours, then remove the seeds floating on the surface, they are empty and will not give a crop, dip the settled seed into a growth accelerator, transfer it to gauze or cotton material. Dry until friable and plant them in grooves to a depth of no more than 3.5 cm, leave a distance between sowing 5-10 cm.

Attention! Before winter, the material planted on time develops immunity to onion flies and to shooting.

Until late autumn, take care of the plant, water, loosen the soil, remove weeds and mulch the topsoil in mid-autumn.

As mulch, you can use: cut grass, spruce needles, compost, sawdust, nettles, bark, wood chips or other materials that you have at home.

By the way, rotting straw is also well suited for mulching, it slows down the growth of the plant, but it is better to lay it on the garden bed after strengthening the root system.

Now you shouldn't have any questions about how to plant onions in the fall or spring, because our detailed instructions will help you choose the right place for the garden, sets or seeds for planting, and take proper care of the plant. Considering our recommendations, your efforts will not be in vain, and at the end of the season, you will rejoice in the harvest.

Onions: three ways to grow, after which you can plant, plant and care for onions in the open field

Onions are popular vegetable crops. It is added to salads, soups, meat and fish dishes.

Therefore, in almost every summer cottage and personal plot you can see beds with plantings this vegetable.

But in order to get a good harvest, you need to know how to properly plant and care for onions.

The crop can be grown in three ways:

1. From seeds in one year... This method of growing vegetables is suitable for areas with a warm climate.
2. From seed in two years... In a two-year culture, the plant is grown in areas with short summers.
3. Seedling method... This method is suitable for sweet and semi-spicy varieties of vegetables.

But before you start planting onions in open ground, you should prepare a site for it. The beds are recommended to be made in organic-rich, dry, sunny, open areas with neutral soil. If the soil is acidic, then it is preliminarily lime.

You can plant onions after tomatoes, green manure, peas, beans, cabbage crops, potatoes. After other types of onions, cucumbers, carrots and garlic, onions can be planted only after three years.

When planting in spring seed soil for planting is prepared in autumn:

1. Rotted manure or humus is added to the soil, and the bed is dug to a depth of fifteen to twenty centimeters. It is not recommended to add fresh manure, otherwise only greens will grow.
2. The acidic soil is mixed with limestone, ground chalk, wood ash or dolomite flour.
3. In the spring, before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, mineral fertilizers are introduced into the soil - potassium chloride, urea, superphosphate.

Growing onions from seeds

Semi-sweet and sweet varieties in warm climates can be grown from seeds in one year. The planting material is pre-processed, for which the seeds are placed in gauze, moistened and kept for swelling for a day.

A bed prepared for planting seeds is watered copper sulfate solution (for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon), after which seeds are placed into it to a depth of one and a half centimeters. The distance between the rows should be about thirteen centimeters, and between the seeds - one and a half centimeters. Crops are watered with water from a watering can with a shower head and covered with foil.

Crop care consists in timely moistening of the soil and daily airing of the plantings. When the seedlings appear, the shelter is removed. Seedlings must be thinned out so that there is a distance of two to three centimeters between the plants.

The plantings are watered, and the soil around them is mulched with humus. This mulch will feed the plants, retain moisture and prevent weeds from growing. Once again, the seedlings must be thinned out three weeks after germination.

The distance between them should be at least six to eight centimeters.

Growing seedlings

In early or mid-April, pre-treated onion seeds are sown thickly in soil-filled seedbeds.

The planting material is placed at a depth of one centimeter, moisten from a spray bottle and cover with foil. After the shoots appear, the shelter is removed.

Seedling care consists only in timely soil moisture.

In open ground, seedlings are planted at the age of fifty to sixty days. Before planting in the garden, the roots on the onions are recommended to be shortened by one third of the length.

Planting sevka

In regions with a short summer, in the first year, onion sets are grown on the beds, which are stored at home in winter and planted in the next spring on the beds for growing. Before planting, the onions must be sorted out, warmed up for seven days in the sun and held for ten minutes in a solution of copper sulfate.

Sevok is planted in the beds in May according to the following scheme:

1. The distance between the rows should be thirty centimeters.
2. The distance between the onions is from eight to ten centimeters.
3. Sevok should be planted to a depth of five centimeters.

When growing sets in the fall, you can get turnips, and in the summer - greens. For this, the distance between the landings is five centimeters. During the summer, the onions are torn out through one and used as greenery.

Planting onions in the fall

To get the harvest already in July, the seed should be planted in the beds from the fifth to the twentieth of October. Before winter, only cold-resistant vegetable varieties are planted, which include variety Stuttgarten, Strigunovsky, Danilovksky and Arzamas varieties.

A bed for winter plantings should be done in sunny, elevated areas. Snow should melt on them before everyone else and water should not stagnate.

The soil for planting the sevka should be still warm. However, before frost, onions should not be planted, since the sevok can dry out.

The planting material is pre-sorted out and warmed up. Sevok is placed in the ground to a depth of five centimeters, in seven centimeters increments.

The distance between the rows is about fifteen centimeters. The beds are covered with straw or spruce branches.

As soon as the snow begins to melt in the spring, the shelter is removed.

Autumn planting sevka has its advantages:

1. After harvesting, another crop can be planted on the garden bed.
2. The onion fly is not afraid of autumn plantings, since by its appearance they have time to get stronger.
3. At home, the sevok dries quickly and is difficult to preserve until spring.

Onion care

When growing onions in open ground, it should be provided with timely watering, dressing and treatments from pests and diseases.

Onions should be watered once a week, using five to ten liters of water per square meter of planting. However, if it rains regularly in summer, then watering may not be necessary.

Otherwise, the onions will begin to rot in waterlogged soil. Learn about the condition of the soil can be green. If it becomes pale, then there is an excess of moisture in the soil. The bluish-white feathers indicate that the soil is dry.

In July, the bulbs begin to ripen and watering is reduced.

When growing onions during the season, three additional fertilizing with organic fertilizers is carried out. You can use a solution of mullein, urea or bird droppings for this (for 10 liters of water - one glass of organic matter).

One square meter of the garden bed is watered with three liters of solution. The first feeding is carried out after the greens appear. After two weeks, the plantings are fertilized a second time.

The third time the plants are fed when the bulbs are about the size of a walnut.

When the greens of the onions reach a size of about fifteen centimeters, it is recommended to treat the plants with copper sulfate, which is good protection against many fungal diseases... To do this, the feathers are sprayed with a solution prepared from ten liters of water and a teaspoon of the drug.

Harvesting and storing onions

From about mid-August, when the bulbs grow to the required volume, the feathers lodge and new leaves stop forming, you can start harvesting. This should be done in warm, dry weather. If you skip the onion harvesting time, then it may start to grow again... These vegetables are not stored for a long time.

The collected bulbs are evenly laid out on the garden bed. When the onions are dry, they are freed from the ground and additionally dried in a dry room or in the sun. Dried vegetables should be examined carefully.

Bulbs left without husks and spoiled are not suitable for long-term storage. Before you put vegetables for storage, you need to cut off the leaves. Only a neck about six centimeters long should remain.

To increase the shelf life of the bulbs, the roots are cauterized.

It is recommended to store onion heads in a dry room with an air temperature slightly above 0 degrees. Since air must flow to the bulbs, they are stacked in stockings, baskets, nets or boxes. During storage, vegetables are regularly sorted out, removing bulbs that have begun to grow or rot.

You can store the harvest in the apartment. In this case, you do not need to trim dry leaves on the plant. The container with vegetables is placed away from the batteries. The optimum air temperature should be from +18 to +20 degrees.

It is not recommended to store it along with other vegetables that need high humidity.

Onion pests and diseases

When growing onions in open ground, the following pests are most dangerous for the plant:

1. Onion moth. To prevent the appearance of these pests, weeds should be removed in a timely manner, crop rotation, agricultural technology should be observed and plant residues should be destroyed.
2. Onion fly. To prevent this pest from settling on onions, the vegetable is recommended plant in the same bed with carrots, the smell of which the onion fly is afraid.
3. Tobacco thrips. Pests are destroyed by Karbofos or Aktellik.
4. Caterpillars of the scoop. You can get rid of the caterpillars by treating the plantings with a solution of Gomelin or Bitoxibacillin.

Unfavorable growing conditions and mistakes in care can lead to damage to the onion with various diseases:

1. Fusarium is a disease that often appears on plants affected by onion flies. With fusarium, tissues die off at the bottom of the onions, and rot appears, after which the tips of the greens turn yellow. To avoid the appearance of this disease, the set is warmed up before planting at a temperature of forty degrees for ten hours.
2. Downy mildew - the disease can be recognized by a gray bloom on the leaves. Affected vegetables do not form seeds and do not store well. To avoid the appearance of powdery mildew, the sets are warmed up before planting. It is also necessary to ensure that the plantings are not thickened.
3. Gray rot - the disease occurs in rainy and damp weather. Diseased plants must be removed. For the purpose of prevention, the planting material is treated with a solution of copper sulfate.
4. White rot - acidic soil and excess nitrogen in the soil contribute to the appearance of the disease. Therefore, before planting vegetables, the acidic soil is limed, and fresh manure is not used to feed the onions. Diseased plants should be removed.
5. Mosaic is a viral disease in which the plant lags behind in growth, the seeds are almost not formed, the inflorescences become small, and the leaves become yellow. Affected instances must be removed.
6. Neck rot is a disease that can only be detected after harvest. It manifests itself as mold on the outer scales of the bulbs. Neck rot develops under unfavorable growing conditions. To avoid its appearance, the seedlings before planting and the harvested bulbs are warmed up at a temperature of forty-five degrees. Most often, late varieties are affected by this disease.

Viral diseases of the plant are not cured, therefore, preventive measures must be used.

To do this, it is recommended to observe crop rotation, not to make thickened plantings, regularly remove weeds and follow all agricultural techniques.

Before planting, the onion sets can be warmed up and treated with copper sulfate.

Fungal diseases can be cured special fungicidal preparations.However, it is not recommended to use them, as the bulbs are capable of accumulating poisons.

Onions are an unpretentious plant that even a novice gardener can grow in his area.

The popularity of this vegetable is due to the content of substances useful for the human body in it. Eating onions improves digestion and induces the secretion of gastric juice.

In addition, the vegetable has a bactericidal, sedative and diuretic effect.

How to plant onion sets - advice from experienced gardeners +

Choosing a landing site and forming a bed

Usually, onion sets are planted in the spring, when the weather is already warm and the soil has warmed up enough - approximately the beginning - mid-May (depending on the weather and the region). In the meantime, you have time to prepare the garden.

In the second half of April, it is worth going out to the garden and, after looking around, determine the most illuminated area, which will be sunny most of the day without shade from neighboring trees, fences or buildings.

And it is better if this place is on a hill, and not in a lowland, where rain and melt waters often stagnate even on sandy soils. Further, on one of the fine days, when the earth dries up a little and stops sticking, you can start studying the soil.

It is enough to dig a few times to approximately determine the type of soil:

• lump is heavy and sticks strongly to the shovel - clay soil (by adding 2-3 buckets of coarse sand and peat, you can improve soil drainage and make it suitable for onions)
• if the ground is easily knocked off by a shovel - most likely sandy loam soil or loam (both options are quite acceptable for cultivation);

• but when the soil simply crumbles, without forming lumps and lumps, then it is sandstone (compost or humus must be added, because such organic matter not only provides planting with nutrients, but also helps to retain moisture in the ground).

The acidity of the soil can also be determined without special means and preparations.

Look around what weeds are growing on the site, you noticed - horsetail, horse sorrel, plantain - these are acidic soils, and for the successful cultivation of onions, chalk or lime should be added to the allocated area (about 1-2 kg per 1 square meter of land).

If nettle, clover, wood lice, wheatgrass are more common, then these are slightly acidic soils, but the common bindweed, shepherd's purse, adonis or euphorbia speak of neutral acidity.

Even novice gardeners are aware of the need for soil fertility.

But organics recommended in specialized articles: fresh manure, rotted mullein, and even the contents of compost heaps - garden beginners are often puzzled: "Where to get all this and how to work with it?" Therefore, let's do it easier: if you doubt the fertility of the soil - before planting onion sets and digging up a garden bed, prepare fertilizers yourself.

Chopped (without roots and seeds) weeds are suitable as organic matter - the same nettle, dandelion, tansy or shepherd's purse.

You can also buy a ready-made concentrate of natural peat-based fertilizer - Humate, which, according to the instructions, is also scattered before digging.

And as a mineral supplement, purchase nitroammofoska - a complex preparation containing both the necessary nitrogen, potassium, and phosphates.

It is impossible to introduce simultaneously means that reduce the acidity of the soil (wood ash, chalk, lime) and organic matter, since their interaction leads to a decrease in nitrogen in the soil, which is so necessary for growing crops. It is better to carry out these events in two stages - in autumn and spring.

Having dug up the area chosen under the onion, you need to form a garden bed. Its size depends on the planting method and the number of sets.

Following the advice of experienced gardeners, it makes sense to organize mixed plantings, alternating rows of onions with carrots, beets or berry plantings.

And such cultivation is really useful: in addition to saving space on the site, the plants will protect each other from pests and prevent the spread of diseases.

And for a novice gardener - this is an opportunity to try your hand and grow several crops at once without unnecessary "labor feats" and care.

Therefore, we prepare the bed, observing the recommended sowing rates: the distance between the rows is about 20-15 cm, and between the bulbs - at least 7-10, depending on the size of the seed.

Preparation of planting material

Growing onions from seedlings is undoubtedly the most convenient, efficient and fastest way to harvest. It is quite simple to purchase planting material - sets are sold of various varieties, sizes, shapes.

At the same time, the expected yield of turnip bulbs may differ in weight, taste, expected shelf life and their use.

And if everyone has their own taste preferences, then the size is worth mentioning: qualified gardeners prefer to buy a smaller set, because in this case the number of bulbs in the unit of weight or volume sold will be greater.

But on the other hand, under unfavorable conditions or inadequate care, it is difficult to grow full-fledged, large bulbs from such "small fry", especially if there is not enough experience. Therefore, we recommend for beginners to plant larger sevok so as not to be disappointed in gardening matters at the first attempts.

Before planting an onion, it is necessary to carry out a number of measures aimed at enhancing its vitality and preventing diseases.

1. Sevok is heated in hot water (t 35-40 ° C) with the addition of a pink solution of potassium permanganate or any suitable fungicide (antifungal drugs sold in flower or gardening shops). This will not only kill possible infections, but also reduce the likelihood of "shooting" the bow in the future.
2. Now it is dipped in a salty solution for 1.5-2 hours (a glass of salt per liter of water) so that the pests cannot “feast on” the future harvest.
3. When everything is done, the set must be rinsed. Then, if the bulbs have underdeveloped or too dry roots, they are kept in a rooting stimulator (you can buy a ready-made preparation in the store or make it yourself: for 1 liter of water + 2 tablespoons of honey + 2 tablespoons of aloe juice).

The seed prepared in this way is already sufficiently saturated with moisture, disinfected and ready for the beginning of the growing season. You can start planting according to seeding rates and in pre-marked rows.

Care, watering and feeding before harvesting

In about a week, the first green sprouts will appear on the garden bed, and soon the even rows of the onion will need care. You just have to regularly pull out weeds and, in dry weather, water the garden.

As top dressing, if you did not manage to "get hold of" the infusion of mullein or bird droppings, you can use the same that you introduced into the soil before planting.

Crushed greens (cut grass, tops, cut young twigs, weeds, even with seeds) are poured into any container, poured to the top with water and left to ferment for 5-7 days.

After that, the infusion is filtered and added during watering at the rate of 1 liter per bucket of water. If there is no time to mess around with grass, then you can use organic Humate powder as fertilizer according to the instructions.

That's all the simple care.

Two weeks before the expected harvest (when the green part of the onion turned yellow and began to lie down), all watering is stopped, and the drying soil is carefully raked off with a hoe or hands so that the bulbs ripen in the sun.

In order not to miss the moment of cleaning, you need to check the condition of the turnip - pull out one and look at its roots - they should begin to dry out.

But if new white roots have appeared, this means that the plant is entering the next growing season, which cannot be allowed, because the taste of the onion is lost and its keeping quality decreases.

The harvested crop is transferred to the shade under a canopy, where there is good air circulation. There, the bulbs remain until the greens, roots are completely dry and dense yellowish scales are formed. When the onions are dry, they are stored in the basement or pantry.

• Evgeny

As a culture, onions were known, used as food and as a medicine, even by the Sumerians. In Russia, the onion culture appeared around the 12th century. Today it is cultivated all over the world. This plant has gained such popularity for its medicinal and nutritional qualities. Onions and green onions on a feather contain phytoncides - compounds with the strongest bactericidal properties, vitamins A, B, B1, B2, C, PP, mineral salts and other substances necessary for humans. It is eaten fresh in salads, as well as in the preparation of hot dishes and in the canning industry. In this article, we will talk about the agricultural technology of growing onions from sets.

Content:

• Biological features of onions
• Varietal variety of onions
• General approaches to agricultural onion cultivation
• The specifics of growing turnip onions from sets
• Protection against diseases and pests
• Harvest
• Onion varieties for growing turnip in summer cottages

Biological features of onions

Onions are a one-, two- and three-year-old plant. From the seeds (nigella) of onions in the first year, onion sets or arbazheka are obtained - small onions 1-2 cm in diameter with 2-5 grams in weight. For 2 years, a large onion (uterus) is obtained from the seed. The uterine bulbs are marketable onions. In the third year, planting the uterus, onion seeds are obtained, which are called nigella for their color.

In the southern regions, onion seeds can also be obtained with a two-year cultivation: in the first year, a large uterine bulb is obtained and in the second year, a testis, which forms on a high straight peduncle in the form of capitate, rounded inflorescences.

Varietal variety of onions

The bow, in relation to the length of the light period, is divided into 2 large groups:

• group of varieties of the northern direction. They develop normally and form vegetative (bulbs) and generative (nigella seeds) crops only when the day length is 15-18 hours a day. Under conditions of short daylight hours, northern varieties manage to grow only a green feather, and do not form bulbs at all.
• Varieties of the southern regions form a normal crop with a short daylight hours - 12 hours a day. With the lengthening of the light period in southern varieties, the bulbs do not ripen, they are poorly stored.
• Today, breeders have developed varieties that do not react so painfully to the length of daylight hours and grow and develop normally in the north and south, with other optimal conditions.

By taste, onions are divided into 3 groups:

• sharp,
• peninsular,
• sweet or salad.

Essential oils, or rather, the ratio between sugars and essential oils, give the onion a specific pungency or bitterness. The less sugar, the less essential oils, which means less pungency of the onion bulb and leaves (feathers). Today, breeders offer varieties without bitterness, the so-called sweet salad.

Onions from set to large onion

Predecessors and compatibility

The onion has a fibrous root system, which cannot form high yields without additional nutrition. Therefore, onions are placed after crops that received manure during autumn soil cultivation (early cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, early and medium potatoes, zucchini, melons, and legumes).

Onions have good compatibility with all types of cabbage, carrots, beets, radishes, greens, which allows you to combine these crops in compacted crops.

Soil requirements

Onions develop normally on neutral soils at pH = 6.4-6.7.If the soils are acidified by prolonged application of mineral fertilizers, then 2-3 years before sowing onions, the soil under the previous crops is acidified by adding slaked lime, dolomite flour 200 g / m². Onions cannot stand liming the soil before sowing and planting. You can use wood ash 300-400 g per 1 m² of area.

Onions do not like fresh organic matter, but on depleted soils in the fall or spring, you can add mature humus under it at a rate of 1.5-2.0 kg / m² of area. Since autumn, part of the phosphorus and potash fertilizers is also used for digging.

The second half with the addition of nitrogen fertilizers is used in the spring before sowing and planting crops. On rich chernozems, they are limited to the introduction of decomposed organic matter for digging. On peaty, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded, and the dose of phosphorus is increased by 30-40%.

Environmental requirement

Onions are cold-resistant crops. Therefore, sowing and planting are carried out in early spring, when the soil temperature in the 10 cm layer rises to +10 .. + 12 ° C, and the air will not drop below +3 .. + 5 ° C. Onion seedlings are not afraid of short-term returnable spring frosts. Cooling down to -3 ° C does not harm the seedlings, but adult plants at low temperatures (-3 ..- 5 ° C) stop growth and development, seed ripening.

Onions need a sufficient amount of moisture, especially during the formation of seeds and uterine bulb. Seeds with a lack of moisture turn out to be puny with low germination, and the bulbs are small and low-yield.

Bulb onions are grown in several ways: seeds, sevk (arbazheka), sampling, seedlings.

Planting onion sets

The most common method for obtaining large commercial bulbs in all regions is growing from seedlings.

Soil preparation for sowing

In the garden culture rotation, the onion is returned to its original place after 3-5 years. In the fall, after harvesting the predecessor, the soil is freed from weeds and watered, provoking weed shoots. Then they dig deeply (25-30 cm).

Before digging on depleted soils, ripened humus or compost (0.5 buckets), and complete mineral fertilizer - 25-30 g of urea and granular superphosphate, 15-25 g of chlorine-free potash fertilizers are applied to 1 m². In the spring, before planting, the seedlings are introduced under loosening in 10-15 g of nitroammophoska.

Onions love to show themselves in all their glory, therefore, on loamy soils, planting is carried out on ridges, on which the bulb from the turnip growth phase is opened by 1/3 (the shoulders are released). This technique helps to form a large onion and ripen during the process. The top, hidden under heavy soil, accumulates water (especially in rainy weather) and is affected by fungal infection.

On light permeable soils, performing the same technique, the arbazheka is planted on a flat surface. The mulched surface does not allow rapid evaporation of moisture, and open hangers receive the necessary share of sunlight.

Sevka preparation

In autumn, after harvesting and drying, the harvested crop is divided into 2 fractions. Select planting material with a diameter of 1.5-3.0 cm (set) and smaller than 1 cm (wild oat). Wild oat is usually sown in warm regions before winter in open ground, and in cold northern regions - in a greenhouse.

In the spring, 2 weeks before planting, the seedlings are sorted into fractions and single-sized bulbs are planted separately, which makes it possible to obtain bulbs of uniform size. The selected material is freed from dried and diseased bulbs, dry scales and other small debris.

An arbazheka with a diameter of more than 3 cm (sample) is planted separately. Large bulbs shoot early and do not form a normal bulb. Therefore, they are usually used to obtain a green feather.

The material selected for planting is heated for 6-7 hours at a temperature of +40 .. + 45 ° C. Before planting, the planting material is disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 hours). Recently, solutions of biofungicides (planriz, gamair, phytosporin) have been used more often.Sevok is soaked for 1-2 hours before planting.

Onion sets

Planting sevka

An arbazheka is planted for their own use, usually in a one-line method, leaving a row spacing of 40 cm and in a row of 4-6 cm.You can use a multi-line sowing strip for planting with a row spacing of 20 cm.In this case, the middle row of 3 line tape is used on a feather. The freed up area will allow the formation of a larger bulb.

The planting depth is regulated by the size of the arbazheka. It is planted so that the "tail" is not covered with soil. In dry weather, pre-emergence watering is carried out or, before planting, the furrows are watered from a watering can.

Shoots appear on the 9-12th day. It is very important not to start the crops and get rid of weeds and soil crust in time. The loosening is superficial, so as not to damage the delicate root system of the seedlings, which is located in the upper 10-30 cm layer. You cannot spud onions!

Top dressing

The first feeding is carried out in the phase of leaf growth, after 2-3 weeks, especially if the onion develops a thin light feather. Usually, urea is used at the rate of 20-25 g per 10 liters of water and the solution is added at the root for 10-12 running meters. During this period, good results are provided by fertilizing with nitrophos, nitroammophos, 25-30 g / m² of area for irrigation or solution, as well as urea. When feeding with solutions, be sure to wash the plants with clean water from a watering can with a fine-mesh nozzle.

The second feeding is carried out with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the second decade of June or 3 weeks after the first. A solution is prepared from 20-30 g of superphosphate and 10-13 g of potassium salt. You can use nitroammophoska - 40 g / 10 l of water (2 tablespoons without top).

On depleted soils, you can carry out a third top dressing (look at the condition of the plants), but nitrogen fertilizers must be removed from the composition. You can use the phosphorus-potassium composition at the dose used for the second feeding.

It should be noted that the soil, well seasoned before planting, excludes feeding. Removing weeds, loosening and watering are sufficient to obtain an average harvest of environmentally friendly vegetable products.

Sevok of onion

Watering

For normal growth and development, onions use little water, but require constantly moist soil in the first month after germination and during the period of bulb growth. At first, watering is carried out once every 2 weeks, and if the weather is dry and hot - once a week, followed by mandatory loosening of the soil (destruction of pests and their larvae), mulching.

The soil is soaked in the first month up to 10 cm of the layer, increasing it to the growth phase of the bulbs to 20-25 cm land.

Protection against diseases and pests

Of the diseases, most often, onions are damaged by fungal diseases (downy mildew, root rot) and numerous pests (onion flies, moths, thrips, nematodes, hoverflies, hidden proboscis) associated with violation of the recommended cultivation techniques.

At the first visible changes in the color of the leaves, the appearance of light dots, dashes, wilting of the feather, twisting it, it is necessary to sprinkle the leaves with a tank mixture of biofungicides and bioinsecticides, according to the recommendations. They are harmless to humans and animals. It is not recommended to carry out chemical means of protection on onions, and when cultivated on a green feather, it is prohibited.

Harvest

The onset of the ripening and harvesting phase is determined by the state of the leaves. Their lodging and yellowing indicate the ripening of the bulbs. In dry and sunny weather, the bulbs are plucked from the soil and left in place or transferred under a canopy and dried for 7-10 days. Sort out and cut, leaving a stump of 5-6 cm. If the soil is dense, then the roots are pruned, trying not to damage the bulb.

Onion varieties for growing turnip in summer cottages

For northern regions

• Peninsular - Azelros, Crimson Ball;
• Sharp - Bessonovsky local, Rostov local;
• Salad - Lisbon White, Islesa grait, Alice, Albion F1

For southern areas

• Peninsular - Kasatik;
• Sharp - Sunny;
• Salad - Dnestrovsky, Kaba, Yellow Kaba.

The varietal variety of onions is much richer than the examples given. But when choosing seeds or sets for growing in the country, be sure to use local zoned varieties. Varietal confusion is unacceptable. You will not get the expected yield, and the grown bulbs will be of poor quality and lack keeping quality.

Onions are popular vegetable crops. It is added to salads, soups, meat and fish dishes. Therefore, in almost every summer cottage and personal plot you can see beds with plantings this vegetable. But to get a good harvest, you need to know how to properly plant and care for onions.

Planting onions

The crop can be grown in three ways:

1. From seeds in one year... This method of growing vegetables is suitable for areas with a warm climate.
2. From seed in two years... In a two-year culture, the plant is grown in areas with short summers.
3. Seedling method... This method is suitable for sweet and semi-spicy varieties of vegetables.

But before you start planting onions in open ground, you should prepare a site for it. The beds are recommended to be made in organic-rich, dry, sunny, open areas with neutral soil. If the soil is acidic, then it is preliminarily lime.

You can plant onions after tomatoes, green manure, peas, beans, cabbage crops, potatoes. After other types of onions, cucumbers, carrots and garlic, onions can be planted only after three years.

When planting in spring seed soil for planting is prepared in the fall:

1. Rotted manure or humus is added to the soil, and the bed is dug to a depth of fifteen to twenty centimeters. It is not recommended to add fresh manure, otherwise only greens will grow.
2. The acidic soil is mixed with limestone, ground chalk, wood ash or dolomite flour.
3. In the spring, before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, mineral fertilizers are introduced into the soil - potassium chloride, urea, superphosphate.

Growing onions from seeds

Semi-sweet and sweet varieties in warm climates can be grown from seeds in one year. The planting material is pre-processed, for which the seeds are placed in gauze, moistened and kept for swelling during the day.

A bed prepared for planting seeds is watered copper sulfate solution (for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon), after which seeds are placed into it to a depth of one and a half centimeters. The distance between the rows should be about thirteen centimeters, and between the seeds - one and a half centimeters. Crops are watered with water from a watering can with a shower head and covered with foil.

Crop care consists in timely moistening of the soil and daily airing of the plantings. When the seedlings appear, the shelter is removed. Seedlings must be thinned out so that there is a distance of two to three centimeters between the plants. The plantings are watered, and the soil around them is mulched with humus. This mulch will feed the plants, retain moisture and prevent weeds from growing. Once again, the seedlings must be thinned out three weeks after germination. The distance between them should be at least six to eight centimeters.

Growing seedlings

In early or mid-April, pretreated onion seeds are sown thickly in soil-filled seedbeds. The planting material is placed at a depth of one centimeter, moisten from a spray bottle and cover with foil. After the shoots appear, the shelter is removed. Seedling care consists only in timely soil moisture.

In open ground, seedlings are planted at the age of fifty to sixty days.Before planting in the garden, the roots on the onions are recommended to be shortened by one third of the length.

Planting sevka

In regions with a short summer, in the first year, onion sets are grown on the beds, which are stored at home in winter and planted in the next spring on the beds for growing. Before planting, the onions must be sorted out, warmed up for seven days in the sun and held for ten minutes in a solution of copper sulfate.

Sevok is planted in the beds in May according to the following scheme:

1. The distance between the rows should be thirty centimeters.
2. The distance between the onions is from eight to ten centimeters.
3. Sevok should be planted to a depth of five centimeters.

When growing sets in the fall, you can get turnips, and in the summer - greens. For this, the distance between the landings is five centimeters. During the summer, the onions are torn out through one and used as greenery.

Planting onions in the fall

To get the harvest already in July, the seed should be planted in the beds from the fifth to the twentieth of October. Before winter, only cold-resistant vegetable varieties are planted, which include variety Stuttgarten, Strigunovsky, Danilovksky and Arzamas varieties.

A bed for winter plantings should be done in sunny, elevated areas. Snow should melt on them before everyone else and water should not stagnate.

The soil for planting the sevka should be still warm. However, before frost, onions should not be planted, since the sevok can dry out.

The planting material is pre-sorted out and warmed up. Sevok is placed in the ground to a depth of five centimeters, in seven centimeters increments. The distance between the rows is about fifteen centimeters. The beds are covered with straw or spruce branches. As soon as the snow begins to melt in the spring, the shelter is removed.

Autumn planting sevka has its advantages:

1. After harvesting, another crop can be planted on the garden bed.
2. The onion fly is not afraid of autumn plantings, since they have time to get stronger by its appearance.
3. At home, the sevok dries quickly and is difficult to preserve until spring.

Onion care

When growing onions in open ground, it should be provided with timely watering, dressing and treatments from pests and diseases.

Onions should be watered once a week, using five to ten liters of water per square meter of planting. However, if it rains regularly in summer, then watering may not be necessary. Otherwise, in waterlogged soil, the onions will begin to rot. Learn about the condition of the soil can be green. If it becomes pale, then there is an excess of moisture in the soil. The bluish-white feathers indicate that the soil is dry. In July, the bulbs begin to ripen and watering is reduced.

When growing onions during the season, three additional fertilizing with organic fertilizers is carried out. You can use a solution of mullein, urea or bird droppings for this (for 10 liters of water - one glass of organic matter). One square meter of the garden bed is watered with three liters of solution. The first feeding is carried out after the greens appear. After two weeks, the plantings are fertilized a second time. The third time, the plants are fed when the bulbs are about the size of a walnut.

When the greens of the onions reach a size of about fifteen centimeters, it is recommended to treat the plants with copper sulfate, which is good protection against many fungal diseases... To do this, the feathers are sprayed with a solution prepared from ten liters of water and a teaspoon of the drug.

Harvesting and storing onions

From about mid-August, when the bulbs grow to the required volume, the feathers lodge and new leaves stop forming, you can start harvesting. This should be done in warm, dry weather. If you skip the onion harvesting time, then it may start to grow again... These vegetables are not stored for a long time.

The collected bulbs are evenly laid out on the garden bed.When the onions are dry, they are freed from the ground and additionally dried in a dry room or in the sun. Dried vegetables should be examined carefully. The husked and spoiled bulbs are not suitable for long-term storage. Before you put vegetables in storage, you need to cut off the leaves. Only a neck about six centimeters long should remain. To increase the shelf life of the bulbs, the roots are cauterized.

It is recommended to store onion heads in a dry room with an air temperature slightly above 0 degrees. Since air must flow to the bulbs, they are stacked in stockings, baskets, nets or boxes. During storage, vegetables are regularly sorted out, removing bulbs that have begun to grow or rot.

You can store the crop in the apartment. In this case, you do not need to trim dry leaves on the plant. The container with vegetables is placed away from the batteries. The optimum air temperature should be from +18 to +20 degrees.

It is not recommended to store it along with other vegetables that need high humidity.

Onion pests and diseases

When growing onions in open ground, the following pests are most dangerous for the plant:

1. Onion moth. To prevent the appearance of these pests, weeds should be removed in a timely manner, crop rotation, agricultural technology should be observed and plant residues should be destroyed.
2. Onion fly. To prevent this pest from settling on onions, the vegetable is recommended plant in the same bed with carrots, the smell of which the onion fly is afraid.
3. Tobacco thrips. Pests are destroyed by Karbofos or Aktellik.
4. Caterpillars of the scoop. You can get rid of caterpillars by treating the plantings with a solution of Gomelin or Bitoxibacillin.

Unfavorable growing conditions and mistakes in care can lead to damage to the onion with various diseases:

1. Fusarium is a disease that often appears on plants affected by onion flies. With fusarium, tissues die off at the bottom of the onions, and rot appears, after which the tips of the greens turn yellow. To avoid the appearance of this disease, the set is warmed up before planting at a temperature of forty degrees for ten hours.
2. Downy mildew - the disease can be recognized by a gray bloom on the leaves. Affected vegetables do not form seeds and do not store well. To avoid the appearance of powdery mildew, the sets are warmed up before planting. It is also necessary to ensure that the plantings are not thickened.
3. Gray rot - the disease occurs in rainy and damp weather. Diseased plants must be removed. For the purpose of prevention, the planting material is treated with a solution of copper sulfate.
4. White rot - acidic soil and excess nitrogen in the soil contribute to the appearance of the disease. Therefore, before planting vegetables, the acidic soil is limed, and fresh manure is not used to feed the onions. Diseased plants should be removed.
5. Mosaic is a viral disease in which the plant lags behind in growth, the seeds are almost not formed, the inflorescences become small, and the leaves turn yellow. Affected instances must be removed.
6. Neck rot is a disease that can only be detected after harvest. It manifests itself as mold on the outer scales of the bulbs. Neck rot develops under unfavorable growing conditions. To avoid its appearance, the seedlings before planting and the harvested bulbs are warmed up at a temperature of forty-five degrees. Most often, late varieties are affected by this disease.

Viral diseases of the plant are not cured, therefore, preventive measures must be used. To do this, it is recommended to observe crop rotation, not to make thickened plantings, regularly remove weeds and follow all agricultural techniques. Before planting, the onion sets can be warmed up and treated with copper sulfate.

Fungal diseases can be cured special fungicidal preparations. However, it is not recommended to use them, as the bulbs are capable of accumulating poisons.

Onions are an unpretentious plant that even a novice gardener can grow in his area. The popularity of this vegetable is due to the content of substances useful for the human body in it. Eating onions improves digestion and induces the secretion of gastric juice. In addition, the vegetable has a bactericidal, sedative and diuretic effect.

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