Lily oriental planting and care in the open field in siberia

Most often, summer residents are engaged in breeding a tiger lily. After all, few people know the fact that lilies from the "Asian hybrids" family feel great almost everywhere. It is thanks to this species that it is possible to grow lilies in Siberia and in other regions of the North.

This variety is so diverse that its color includes more than a dozen shades: from cherry, pink and apricot to bright yellow and straw. Most of them still have ornaments in the form of lilac specks on the petals.

Lilies: planting and care in Siberia

It should be noted an important advantage of the varieties "Asian hybrids". They can easily overwinter even in the open field, without insulation. They are unpretentious and tenacious even in -40C frost.

Such varieties of lilies as "Olga", "Aelita", "Ryabinka", "Nochka", "Blinka", "Cherry" also take root well. In general, most of the varieties are bulbous, which means that they form leaves on the stem of small onion babies in the axils, which simplifies their reproduction.

So, we study lilies. Planting and care in Siberia do not require any specific knowledge, everything is quite simple. Children from the stems should be harvested as they mature and planted at the end of August or the first week of September. The land must be prepared, it must be loose with the addition of sand, ash and rotted manure.

How to plant lilies? Planting and leaving in Siberia is not particularly different from the same actions in other regions and are produced as follows. We make small pits, up to two centimeters deep, and plant the children in them, adhering to the 10x10 scheme, water abundantly. Everything, before the onset of cold weather, it is advisable to mulch the soil with humus and peat crumbs.

Before the severe frosts come, our children will root perfectly and gain strength, and with the arrival of spring they will delight the gardener with several elongated leaves released towards the sun. However, it should be borne in mind that such lilies will bloom only a year later.

Planting and care in Siberia imply the determination of plants for permanent residence in the fall. Sleeping bulbs in the fall, after the first flowering, can be transplanted to more convenient places, burying to a depth of 10 cm, at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Such a transplant does not threaten the bulb, because it is in hibernation. You can do this in the spring. When transplanting, the roots are shortened by half.

Features of the root system of lilies

The underbelly roots of the flower grow from the base of the bottom and exist for a season and a half. Their purpose is to anchor the plant in the soil and feed it. Supralukovichnye roots develop in the spring, together with the stem, and die off with it in the fall. They allow the flower to drink from the upper layers of the soil, so loosen the soil around the flower carefully.

It must be remembered that lilies do not like stagnant water. They can put up with a small shadow, but they bloom magnificently in the sun. As soon as the first shoots appear in the spring, you need to water them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and loosen the earth. After such procedures, urea can be scattered on the soil surface at the rate of 1 square meter - a matchbox. Once a month, you can feed the flowers with phosphorus or potassium fertilizers. Brown spots on foliage are removed with preparations containing copper.

Now you know how lilies are planted in Siberia, you know how to properly care for them. It remains to wait for autumn and take the first steps to grow this noble flower. Good luck!

Lily is a perennial plant with beautiful large flowers, bright colors. It is for its bright color and unpretentiousness that the lily is popular with gardeners. Having learned about a large number of varieties, you will also want to grow this beauty on your site. And this is not difficult, even in the climatic conditions of Siberia and the Urals. The main thing is to choose the right variety and plant it on the site according to all the rules.

The content of the article:

• Varieties
• Reproduction
• Landing dates
• Site selection
• Landing technology
• Flower care
• Shelter for the winter

Lily varieties for Siberia

As a rule, summer residents grow lilies of Asian hybrids on their plots. This group was bred by breeders by crossing tiger, Daurian and Sakhalin lilies. They are best adapted to the soil and climatic conditions of the Siberian region. Even in harsh climates, they grow well and delight with abundant flowering from year to year.

Popular varieties of Asiatic lily with white flowering:

Alaska - a plant up to 80 cm high with flowers up to 16 cm in diameter. The shape of the flowers is wide-chained, directed upwards. Forms an inflorescence with 8 flowers. It begins to bloom in July.

Snezhana Is a domestic variety of white lily. On each plant in mid-July, many star-shaped flowers bloom, up to 13 cm in diameter. The flowers look up. Petals with purple dots and a delicate creamy shade. Up to 10 flowers are formed in each inflorescence. It reaches a height of 130 cm.

Snow lily. Photo

Navona - one of the best representatives with large flowers up to 19 cm in diameter. Pointed up. In inflorescences up to nine flowers. Bloom in July. Plant height up to 100 cm.

Red lilies:

Spark - domestic variety up to 130 cm high. Flowering begins at the end of June. Small flowers (up to 8 cm in diameter), directed downward, have a turban-like shape. Up to 20 flowers in inflorescences.

Night - a representative of the domestic selection. In inflorescences up to 12 semi-diamond-shaped flowers bloom, up to 12 cm in diameter. During growth, flowers are sent to the side. Dark cherry petals with black spots. Flowering begins in early July. The plant reaches a height of 120 cm.

Cold-hardy varieties of pink lilies:

Marle - blooms in the second half of July. Each inflorescence has up to 13 flowers. The petals are pale pink. On each plant, up to 90 cm high, flowers bloom with a wide-bowl shape, up to 17 cm in diameter. During flowering, they are directed upwards.

Lorena - a variety developed by domestic breeders for the climatic conditions of our country. The lily reaches a height of 100 cm. The flowers are medium (up to 14 cm in diameter) directed upwards. Star-shaped. The petals are painted lilac-pink. Up to 12 flowers bloom in each inflorescence. Flowering begins in early July.

Fermata - a bright representative of the Asian group, bred by domestic breeders. It tolerates severe winters perfectly. It begins to bloom in the second half of July. Each inflorescence blooms up to 30 flowers. The plant reaches a height of 90 cm. The blossoming flowers are directed upwards. Diameter up to 13 cm. The shape of the flowers is cup-shaped. The petals are colored apricot with dark purple spots.

Orange lilies:

People's - a bright representative of the Asiatic lily. The variety was bred by a domestic breeder. The plant reaches a height of 110 cm. There are 7 to 15 flowers in the inflorescence. Flowering begins in early July. The shape of the flowers is cupped, directed to the side and up. Diameter up to 14 cm. Petals of a dark brown shade with specks.

Sterntiger - height up to 100 cm. In inflorescences up to twelve flowers. The petals are dark cherry color. The shape of the flowers is semi-diamond-shaped, up to 16 cm in diameter. Directed to the side. Blooms in July.

Yellow lilies:

Solemio - height up to 110 cm. Each inflorescence has up to 7 flowers. The flowers are broad-chained, up to 15 cm in diameter. The lily blooms in July.

Radiant - a domestic variety of lilies. Height up to 90 cm. Flowers up to 14 cm in diameter, star-shaped. After opening, the flowers are directed upwards. In inflorescences up to 18 flowers. Flowering begins in late June or early July.

On one site, the lily goes well with other ornamental plants: astilbe, lavender, chrysanthemums and others.

Reproduction of lilies

A plant is grown from scales or small bulbous bulbs that form on the stem. But the most popular breeding method for lilies is this is the division of the bulbs.

By the age of five, the bulbs become smaller and flowering becomes scarce. At this age, it is recommended to transplant the plant to a new location. To do this, after flowering, the bush is dug out of the ground, divided into 2-3 full-fledged bulbs and transplanted to a new place. Sprinkle abundantly with water. The next year, the lilies begin to bloom.

Dug out bulbs in the sun dry quickly and flabby. In order not to spoil the planting material, it is recommended to immediately plant the bulbs in a new place.

When to plant lilies in spring and autumn in Siberia

In the Urals and Siberia, landing in two terms is possible. In the spring, the bulbs are planted on the site after the frost has receded and before the start of the dry season. Around mid-May. When planted in spring, the plants take root in the first year and build up their green mass, and bloom the next summer. In dry, hot summers, lilies planted in spring need abundant watering.

In the fall, the bulbs are planted permanently in September. Under favorable conditions (moist soil and cool weather), lilies take root quickly and tolerate cold winters well. In the spring, when the snow melts, abundant growth and flowering begins.

Choosing a site for planting lilies

The flower culture has one peculiarity - it loves moderate sunlight. It is desirable that the lower part of the bush is more often in the shade, and the crown with flowers in the light. It is not difficult to provide such growing conditions - just plant between low perennials. It should also be noted that the lily does not like too much shading, drafts, lowlands and close occurrence of groundwater. They are planted on the heights.

Do not plant lilies under tall trees. From them in sunny weather, a large shadow falls.A lack of light negatively affects the growth and development of flowers.

Plants prefer light, airy and nutritious soil. Acidic soils are excluded, and planted on neutral ones. They bring in a little wood ash and humus for digging. Fresh manure must not be introduced, it must be rotted.

How to plant lily bulbs on a plot

In order for the plants to take root in a new place and begin growth, they observe the following rules:

• The planting material is examined - diseased and damaged bulbs are removed. Immersed before planting for 10 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. Such training is the prevention of disease.
• The bulbs are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm. For light and sandy soils, the depth is increased by a couple of centimeters, and for heavy soils, on the contrary, they are reduced. The depth of planting in the soil is determined more accurately, according to the diameter of the bulb. Depth = diameter * 3.
• A single-line ribbon planting scheme is practiced - the distance between plants is up to 15 cm, and between rows - up to 50 cm.For medium-sized lilies - two-line: between the bulbs 25 cm, between the lines 25 cm, and between the ribbons 70 cm.For undersized, use a three-line ribbon scheme: 15 cm between plants and lines, and 70 cm between ribbons.
• Lily bulbs are placed in the dug holes, spreading the roots. Cover with soil and watered with water. Mulch with peat. If the soil is moist, then during the autumn planting, the plants do not need watering.

Watch a video detailing the landing technology:

Basic rules for caring for lilies in the garden

In order for flowering to please you for many years, you need to know and observe the main points of caring for lilies:

• Plants do not like excess moisture. Therefore, watering is carried out only in dry spring and dry summer. In other cases, there is enough moisture in the soil after the snow melts. It is not recommended to get moisture on the leaves - watered directly under the root.
• Weeds are regularly weeded around the plants and the topsoil is slightly loosened. To retain moisture and to suppress the growth of weeds, mulch the soil with peat.
• If the lilies were planted in the spring, then it is recommended to remove the flowers in the first summer. This procedure helps to strengthen the plants. In the second year, lilies will delight you with lush flowering.
• In autumn, at the end of flowering, when the stem dries up, pruning is carried out. The stalk is completely removed, leaving only a stump of 15 cm. Before sheltering in the fall, the stump is completely removed.
• Tall plants are tied to a support. A wooden peg with a height of about 100 cm is used as a support.
• In the fifth year of life, the bushes grow old. For rejuvenation, the bulbs are dug out of the ground, divided into several parts and planted in a new place.

Shelter of lilies for the winter in Siberia

Asiatic lilies are fairly cold-resistant plants. They tolerate winters well under a thick layer of snow. But to be on the safe side (after all, not every year there is a lot of snow), the plants are additionally covered for the winter.

You can cover the plants after freezing the ground to a depth of 3 cm. Usually in mid-October. Dry leaves or spruce branches are used as a shelter. The thicker the covering material, the better.

Lilies winter well in dry land. To protect against excess moisture in the soil in a rainy autumn, cover the lilies with oilcloth or make a cover of slate.

With proper care of a perennial, you can enjoy beautiful flowering even in the climatic conditions of Siberia and the Urals.

Interspecific lily hybrid - Algarve cultivar

Lily is a decoration of many gardens and is very popular with flower growers all over the world. Everyone dreams of growing lily flowers in their garden, planting and caring for which is not difficult and affordable, but requires preliminary preparation.

Choosing a variety and bulbs of lilies

When choosing planting material, you need to make sure that it will match the selected variety, healthy, and suitable for growing in your area.In the matter of varietal compliance of lilies, one can only rely on the seller's conscientiousness, but the species and quality of the bulbs can be determined by their appearance.

The best varieties of lilies for the garden

The genus of lilies is represented by more than 80 wild and cultivated species around the world. Their varietal diversity is even more impressive - about 8000 varieties and hybrids, each of which is unique in its own way.

Throughout Russia, including Siberia and the Urals, summer residents practice growing lilies of Asian hybrids. These varieties are frost-resistant, grow quickly and are not demanding to care for. Bloom very profusely in June - July. The peculiarity of Asians is the lack of odor in flowers. The most famous varieties of this group are Marlene, Top Gunn, Lollipop, Yeti, Flore Pleno, Daira, Sorbet.

Popular Asian hybrid - Top Gunn variety

Oriental hybrids of lilies are more capricious when growing. They do not tolerate low temperatures poorly, therefore they are preferred to grow in the southern zone of Russia and in greenhouses in the Moscow region. They are distinguished by fragrant flowers of extraordinary beauty, up to 30 cm in diameter. The following varieties belong to the East: Casablanca, Barbados, Cassandra, Mona Lisa, Double Surprise, Magic Star.

Interspecific OT-hybrid of lily Brazil

Lily Kudrevataya (Martagon) is famous for its unpretentious cultivation. Martagon hybrids are widespread in the northern regions of our country, especially varieties such as Beyhouse, Markhan, Hyson, Gay Light. At the base, the leaves of this type of lily are collected in a whorl, and the high peduncle is strewn with many turban-shaped flowers.

The right variety is the key to easy care

That is why summer residents prefer tubular varieties. They are not affected by diseases and are unpretentious, and long, up to 1.5 m peduncles with many large flowers of various colors will become an exquisite decoration of your flower bed.

Determine the type of lily on the bulb

Experienced gardeners know that each group of lily hybrids has its own requirements for the composition of the soil, the illumination of the site and has its own frost resistance threshold. So, the cultivation of lilies in the open ground of the Asian group and LA hybrids is possible everywhere, and the eastern varieties do not tolerate wintering well; slightly alkaline soil is suitable for growing tubular lilies, and slightly acidic soil for OT hybrids.

The appearance of the bulb will help to determine which group the lily belongs to:

• White bulbs, sometimes with yellow and pink blotches, are characteristic of the Asian and Longiflorum (LA) groups;
• Oriental and Oriental (OT) lilies have large yellow, rarely purple bulbs;
• The bulbs of tubular lilies are purple in color.

Choosing a healthy bulb

When buying lilies, it is important to correctly determine the quality of the planting material, since bulbs infected with fungal diseases will cause a lot of trouble and can infect flowers already growing in your flower beds.

Choosing the right lily bulbs

• The bulb must be firm, juicy, free from damage and signs of decay.
• Planting lilies, the bulbs of which are dry, do not have sprouts and root growth, will not bring the desired result. They need very careful care, and it is not known when flowering will come.
• Living roots must be at least 5 cm in size.
• Bulbs less than 3 cm in diameter will not bloom until two years after planting. The larger the bulb, the more luxuriant the lily color will be. The optimum bulb diameter is 12-16 cm.

When to buy bulbs

Lilies are planted both in autumn and spring. When choosing lilies that are planned to be planted in the fall, it is important to consider that they need to be planted as early as possible, leaving a sufficient time reserve before frost for rooting. Lilies, the cultivation and care of which this year was correct, begin to be dug up from the end of August. It is advisable to purchase bulbs during this period.

Healthy lily bulbs in spring have sprout and live roots

Be careful when buying bulbs!

Look out for the sprouting bulbs that go on sale in the fall. Most likely, they were not planted in the spring in the ground, and they missed one life cycle. Once in the ground, they will immediately move into growth and freeze out at the first subzero temperatures on the ground.

Buying lily saplings

Planting lilies in summer is possible, especially when it comes to Asian hybrids and Candidum. They are sold as seedlings with a clod of earth, often blooming. It is much easier to pick up a flower in this case - all its beauty is visible to the eye, and there is no likelihood of obtaining non-varietal planting material.

Lily seedlings for summer planting

Don't buy lily saplings after distillation!

Seedlings are often sold in June and July after forcing. In this case, the bulbs have passed the life cycle in artificial conditions. In the open field, they will hurt, and they will be able to bloom only after a few years. The cost of such planting material is not high, which is a temptation for many novice flower growers.

Preparation of soil and bulbs, rules for planting lilies

The correct site selection, soil preparation and planting of bulbs are critical to the successful cultivation of lilies. If you approach these stages responsibly, lilies will grow well and delight with flowering in the garden for more than one year.

Site selection

The choice of a site for growing largely depends on the type of lilies and their requirements for certain conditions:

• Asiatic, oriental, and pipe lilies prefer sunny areas with no through-winds. Partial shading will not affect the growth and flowering of these lilies. If the light in the garden is not the same throughout the day, it is preferable to plant the lilies on the east side so that they receive as much sunlight as possible before lunchtime.
• Curly lilies (Martagon) grow well and bloom in partial shade, especially when the leaf rosette is completely shaded and the flower stalks are in the sun.

To shade the bulbs during the summer, it is recommended to plant lilies near low-growing perennials (hosta, daylilies, daisies). In this combination, flowering lilies will stand out and look bright, and the bulb will remain in the shade, protected from overheating and drying out. In shady areas under trees and dense shrubs, lilies are stretched out, their stem is thin, and flowering is scarce and belated. Such plants very often get sick, and the bulbs die.

Choosing a site for lilies in the penumbra of conifers

The best place to plant lilies

Preference for planting lilies should be given to elevated areas or plains. In the lowlands, the bulbs can get wet, be affected by fungal diseases, and in winter they are more likely to freeze.

Soil preparation

Lilies feel comfortable on garden or vegetable garden land, well-drained and without high groundwater. Peat or humus is introduced into sandy soils, and dense clay soil is facilitated by the introduction of coarse-grained river sand.

Preparing the soil for planting lilies

Lilies grow best when planted and cared for in moderately acidic soil.

• Moderately alkaline soil reaction (pH 7.0-8.0) is favorable for growing Snow-white and Curly lilies.
• Asiatic and Oriental lilies grow well on soils with neutral acidity.
• Tubular lily also has preferences - its varieties with pink flowers bloom brighter and more beautifully on slightly acidic soils (pH 6.0-6.5).

How to regulate acidity

Lime, chalk, ash or dolomite flour are added to lower the pH level. Heather earth, peat, acetic acid or colloidal sulfur will help increase the acidity.

The soil for lilies is prepared in advance: in autumn - for spring planting, in summer - for autumn planting. They dig it to a depth of 35-40 cm, turning over the layers. For digging into the soil, fertilizers are applied per m²:

• 1 bucket of humus, rotted manure or compost. The introduction of fresh manure is not permissible, since lilies in such soil will rot;
• 1-2 tbsp.spoons of superphosphate, urea, nitroammophoska;
• 1 liter of wood ash solution, except for those areas where Martagon and Candidum lilies are planned to be planted.

Applying this amount of fertilizer to the soil will provide the lilies with the nutrients they need for good growth and abundant flowering.

Preparing the bulbs for planting

The pre-planting preparation of lilies is necessary to minimize the damage to the bulbs by fungal diseases. Dried onions are pre-soaked in water at room temperature for several hours.

Preparing lily bulbs for planting

The onions are etched for 15-20 minutes in one of the solutions:

• pink solution of potassium permanganate;
• 2 g karbofos per 1 liter of water;
• 2 g of foundation per 1 liter of water;
• a special preparation for etching bulbous plants before planting Maxim or Vitaros.

After processing, the bulbs are dried in the shade.

Planting lilies in the ground

Early autumn planting of lilies in open ground is considered the most successful. Planted during this period, they will have time to take root well before frost and are guaranteed to bloom next year. The exceptions are Oriental lilies and OT hybrids. They bloom late, by September the bulbs are not yet ready for planting, and during the October planting they will not have time to take root. Therefore, they are planted in the spring when the soil warms up well.

The planting depth of the bulbs depends on several factors:

• Bulb size. The larger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be planted. The minimum depth is 10 cm. Lily bulbs should not be embedded in the ground deeper than 25 cm. Bulb babies are sown in furrows 5-7 cm deep.
• Soil composition. On heavy soils, the bulbs must not be deeply deepened.
• Lily variety. For undersized plants, the planting depth is about 10 cm, for tall ones - 15-20 cm.

Planting lilies in the fall

A distance of 20 cm is maintained between the bulbs. Lilies of the Asian group grow rapidly, therefore, when planted, they stand at least 30 cm between them. Pictures of multi-colored lilies, planted in 5-7 bulbs in one wide hole, look beautiful.

Lilies are planted in autumn and spring in pre-prepared holes, on a 5-7 cm "pillow" of river sand. The roots are evenly distributed, after which the bulbs are covered with earth and watered abundantly.

Spring planting material can often be found with a twisted sprout. There is nothing terrible in this, but you need to place the bulb in the hole so that the top of the sprout is vertically above the ground. The bulb itself will take the desired position as the lily grows.

If for the reproduction of lilies it is necessary to obtain a large number of children, the bulbs are planted "on the side". In this position, the nest of bulbs will form faster and the number of daughter bulbs will increase.

It is advisable to mulch the planting of lilies, but for each varietal group a separate mulch is used:

• Asian, Eastern, LA and OT hybrids are mulched with peat, sawdust, pine needles;
• Plantings of Snow-White, Tubular and Curly varieties are mulched with leaf humus, cut grass, and ash is also added.

Features of summer landing

Asian and LA hybrids can be planted in summer. This also applies to the Snow White Lilies, the bulbs of which are dormant in July-August. Lilies are planted in July using the transshipment method.

Planting lily bulbs in summer

Bulbs must be dug out with a clod of earth. A volumetric hole (50x50x50 cm) is prepared in advance, to which 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate and mix it with the ground. The bottom of the hole is covered with river sand with a layer of 5-7 cm, after which a seedling is placed and sprinkled with earth mixed with humus or rotted manure. The seedling is watered abundantly and, if it is tall, tied to a support. The existing buds and flowers are cut off so that the lily spends all its strength on rooting.

Planting lilies in summer video

Summer Lily Care

Growing lilies in the country is not burdensome. Caring for them comes down to regular moistening and loosening of the soil, as well as periodic application of top dressing.

Caring for lilies in the summer, at the stage of bud formation

Watering

The soil under the lilies should be moderately moist throughout the growing season. Moisture stagnation will lead to decay of the bulbs, while lilies tolerate short-term drought painlessly. Lack of watering for a long time will lead to wilting of the lower leaves and poor development of the peduncle.

Drying of the lower leaves of lilies due to insufficient watering

The basic rule of watering lilies

Lilies experience the greatest need for moisture in the spring, during active growth. In summer, they are not watered so abundantly, moistening the soil to the depth of the bulbs. Surface watering will not be beneficial. In this case, the plant will feel thirsty, and a crust will form on the surface of the soil, which does not allow air to pass through well.

Watering lilies during budding and flowering

It is advisable to water the lilies before lunch at the root, avoiding water getting on the leaves. During flowering, the amount of watering can be reduced. It is enough to shed the soil 25-30 cm deep, once every two weeks.

Loosening the soil

Garden lilies, care and planting of which are done correctly, need constant access to air to the root system. Loosen the soil very carefully, taking care not to damage the additional stem roots located at the surface of the soil. At the same time, weeds are removed.

During heavy rains, sand is washed out of the soil, it clogs and hardens. In this case, river sand is poured under the lilies, which, during loosening, mixes with the earth and makes it lighter.

Mulching the plantings with straw or wood shavings will help to facilitate the care of lilies in the summer. Also, you can maintain constant soil moisture and protect the bulbs from overheating by planting low-growing perennials near the lilies.

Mulching lilies with wood chips

Top dressing in summer

If you have an automatic irrigation system set up, as well as planting has been made in the prepared soil, and care for the lilies is practically not required - in the first year the plants need a one-time application of fertilizers.

Complex fertilizing is poured under the flowers during budding, using equal amounts of ammophoska and nitroammophoska, at the rate of 30g / m². Dissolving them in 10 liters of water.

Caring for lilies after flowering

Many gardeners have a question about how to care for lilies after flowering. It was during this period that the plant is most susceptible to diseases, since all the forces went to the peduncles.

Watering

After flowering, the irrigation rate is increased, trying to ensure constant soil moisture at a depth of 25-30 cm. From the second half of August, watering is completely stopped, since the soil must be dry for successful wintering of the bulbs.

Most of all, this applies to Oriental and OT hybrids. After flowering, the soil is thoroughly dried. In September, the flower beds should be covered with plastic wrap to keep it dry during prolonged autumn rains and thaws in winter. The shelter is removed in early spring after the snow melts, during fertilization.

Top dressing

After flowering, lilies need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used as top dressing at 10 and 30 g per m², respectively. Dilute them in 10 liters of water and water the lilies with this solution under the root, after preliminary watering with clean water.

Feeding lilies with organic

Feeding lilies with organic

Lily bulbs do not have a protective shell, like tulips and other bulbs, so organic fertilizers must be applied very carefully. Nutrient solutions based on manure or slurry are prepared in low concentration: 0.3-0.5 liters per bucket of water. Over-saturation of the soil with organic fertilizers will lead to rotting and subsequent death of the bulb.

For wintering lily bulbs, the same feeding as in summer is done in spring when the snow melts. Fertilizers are applied dry on the crust of thawed ice and get to the roots of the bulb gradually, stimulating its awakening, growth and development.

Pruning

Withered flowers are cut off from the peduncle.It is impossible to hesitate with this, since seed boxes will begin to form on the peduncle, and the plant will spend all its strength on their development.

Caring for lilies after flowering includes pruning the stem. It is carried out only after the leaves and peduncle have completely dried out, since they are a conductor of nutrients to the bulbs. In September, the stem is cut "on a stump" 10-15 cm long. In late autumn, in October or November, this stump is carefully pulled out so that cold air does not enter the bulb through it.

After the stem of the lily has dried, it is cut off

You need to cut flowering lilies for bouquets correctly!

The cut of the peduncle is made at an acute angle so that the remaining leaves completely or partially cover it. An oblique cut is necessary for water to drain off when it rains. If the cut is made even, a large amount of moisture through it will get to the bulb, which will provoke its rotting.

Protection of lilies from diseases and pests

Lilies can be affected by pests, the most dangerous of which are:

• Onion root mite. Prevention and protection - planting healthy material; pickling the bulbs before planting with karbofos (5 g / 1 l of water for 30 minutes); heat treatment of bulbs in water of 50 ºС for 5 minutes.
• Onion leaf beetle. Fighting - timely weed harvesting; collecting beetles; chlorophos treatment (10 g per bucket of water)
• Purple scoop. Fighting - timely removal of weeds and plant residues.

Signs of fungal diseases on lily leaves

Often, lilies, planting and caring for which were carried out in violation of the rules of agricultural technology, are affected by fungal diseases such as fusarium, rust, gray rot. In this case, the bulbs begin to rot, and the leaves become stained and wither. If the development of fungi is allowed to take its course, the plant will die.

To combat fungal diseases, the bulbs are etched with fungicides before planting: Fundazol, Topsin, Euporen, Bavistin. Plants are sprayed with the same drugs during the growing season if the first signs of disease appear.

Viral diseases of lilies are much less common, but there are currently no effective means to combat them. Infected plants are removed and destroyed off-site.

Lily care after flowering video

Features of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals

Today lilies are successfully grown in Siberia and beyond the Urals. Asian and LA hybrids, Martagon lilies and tubular hybrids are cultivated there. Some varieties of OT hybrids and oriental lilies are able to winter in these regions under cover. Planting and caring for the Urals and Siberia is not much different from growing lilies in regions with a warm climate.

Shelter of lilies for the winter in Siberia and the Urals

A feature of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals is their shelter for the winter. The beds are insulated with humus, a layer of at least 7 cm, or fallen leaves - about 20 cm. Oriental lilies and OT hybrids are additionally covered with plastic wrap or agrofibre so that the soil remains dry in winter. Curly lilies calmly endure winters in Siberia without shelter.

The lily shelter is removed immediately after the snow melts so that the sprouts do not appear early and do not freeze during late frosts. If, nevertheless, the lilies have sprouted, and the threat of frost has not passed, they are covered with spruce branches or straw.

Transplanting and dividing bulbs

In order for a lily, planting and caring for which in the open field does not require special skills, to develop well and bloom, its bulbs must be regularly transplanted to a new place. Otherwise, their stems become lethargic, and the flowers become smaller. The frequency of the necessary transplant depends on the type of lily grown:

• Curly and American lilies without transplanting are grown up to 15 years.
• Oriental and Long-flowered lilies, OT and La hybrids are transplanted every 3-5 years.
• Asiatic and Tubular lilies can be replanted every year as they grow intensively.

Transplant in the fall

The optimal time for transplanting a lily, the care of which was organized according to all the rules, is early autumn. The bulbs are dug up in August or early September, a month and a half after flowering. By this time, they have accumulated a sufficient amount of nutrients and quickly take root in a new place. With late autumn planting, there is a high probability that the bulbs will not have time to take root and will die in the frozen ground.

Children are separated from the bulbs dug out for transplantation. Often they fall off on their own, but if the daughter bulbs are tightly collected in the nest, they are cut off with a clean knife, making sure to keep a part of the bottom on each bulb. Dividing the bulbs is the easiest and most reliable way to reproduce lilies, in which all the maternal qualities of the variety are preserved.

Dry and rotting scales are removed from the bulbs, and too long roots are cut off. They are treated with antifungal drugs: 1% solution of potassium permanganate, 2% iodine, 1% ferrous sulfate, foundation. Then they are dried in a shaded, well-ventilated place.

It is advisable to plant lilies in a new place within a week after digging so that the bulbs do not dry out. Small daughter bulbs are planted separately for growing to a depth of 5-7 cm and after a year or two, they are again transplanted to a permanent place.

Spring transplant

Oriental and OT hybrids of lilies are transplanted in the spring, since they fade only by the end of August. Their bulbs are dug up in late autumn, dried and stored in a cool place. Place them in plastic bags or plastic containers with ventilation holes and sprinkle with wet sawdust or moss to keep them from drying out. The bulbs are planted in a permanent place when the threat of recurrent frosts has passed.

Dividing the nest of lily bulbs in spring

Spring transplanting is also permissible when growing other types of lilies, before the emergence, or at the very beginning of the development of sprouts. It is important to take into account that during spring transplantation, lilies develop rapidly and the appearance of early shoots can lead to their death due to late frosts.

Transplanting lilies in summer

Snow-white lilies need a summer transplant, the vegetation cycle of which has its own characteristics. They enter the resting phase in July-August, and by September they are already beginning to form a new rosette. When transplanting, you do not need to cut off the stem, but it is advisable to shorten the long roots to 7-10 cm. Water the lilies after the completion of the procedure should be abundant, stimulating the growth of new roots.

Lily transplant in summer

Dividing and planting lilies in July is also possible when growing Asiatic lilies. The dug nests are divided into separate stems with a bulb and immediately planted in a new place. In this case, the buds and existing flowers are cut off.

Outcome

Growing lilies in the country is possible even for a novice florist, provided that he follows the rules for caring for them. It is important to remember that, depending on the species, lilies need different conditions, the observance of which will be the key to abundant and colorful flowering.

A proudly standing blooming lovely lily immediately attracts all the attention. Her gorgeous flowers, whether large or miniature, always leave an unforgettable impression.

Lily belongs to the Lilia family, which includes perennial herbaceous plants with a bulb at the root. From 70 to 90 species belong to this genus. Many different hybrid varieties have been bred from them.

Yellow lily

Pink lily

Making your garden unforgettably beautiful is the dream of any gardener without exception. For this, a wide variety of flowers and plants are used, which are in perfect harmony with each other. Lily is a flower that will surely help you create a beautiful garden. The unusual shape and extensive palette of colors will make any person who is next to him enjoy its flowering.

There are many legends that tell about the appearance of a lily, and one of them says that the flower appeared thanks to the milk of an ancient Greek goddess. Of course, it is impossible to say that this is undoubtedly true, but you should not doubt the unforgettable beauty of the lily. According to its decorative properties, it can be placed next to the first beauty and garden queen, an unforgettable rose.

All about lilies: description and main characteristics

How to distinguish this culture from others:

Drooping lily

• All plants have a stem that can be 14 cm or up to 2.5 meters in height, completely covered with foliage. Exactly how long your flower will be depends on the variety you have chosen.
• Also, some varieties may differ in the stem, which is covered with leaves only in its lower part.
• There are plants with umbellate, conical and cylindrical inflorescences.
• You can find both single flowers and groups, the number of which varies from 5 pcs. and comes up to 15 pcs. Each inflorescence pleases the owner with its flowering for about 1-2 weeks.
• The flower has 6 petals, one pistil and stamens, which can be about 5-7 pcs.
• Among the many species, there are plants of the most original and unforgettable shapes and colors. But you will not be able to meet a blue or blue lily.
• Grows from bulbs, which can be of various sizes, depending on the selected variety. It can be either 1 cm or up to 27 cm.

Those who like to decorate their garden should remember that some types of lilies are quite difficult to breed. There are also plant varieties that even professional gardeners cannot cultivate. But this does not apply to hybrid varieties, since even the most inept florist can cope with their cultivation.

The size of the flower also depends on the variety chosen. Some can be around 250mm in circumference, while small flowering varieties reach around 40mm.

All currently available hybrids have been bred from several basic species. Let's see what kind of lilies are there?

The most popular subspecies are:

• Asiatic lilies

The inflorescences resemble a bowl in their shape, and are also practically devoid of any aroma. The most spectacular and unforgettable among them Marlene variety... Sometimes the shoots and foliage of this variety are strongly influenced by climatic conditions, which is why they grow together to form a pyramid. This is what caused this variety to be called pyramidal lilies.

Asiatic lilies

Among the "Asians" it is worth highlighting:

1. Cocktail
2. Alaska or spotted lily
3. Yeti
4. London
5. Tiger lily

These flowers are not demanding to care for, they are able to withstand frosts, various diseases and multiply without much difficulty. The height of this species reaches about 150 cm. It begins to delight the grower with its flowering from the end of July or the beginning of August. Also famous for their unsurpassed beauty are the bulbous lilies, which received this name because of the air bulbs located in the axils of the foliage.

• American hybrids

They appeared due to the crossing of several species. These varieties are not afraid of frosts, but only they have a negative attitude towards transplants. Sometimes transplanting a plant leads not only to wilting, but also to its death. If you decide to grow this species, then you should choose well-drained, slightly acidic soil areas for it. American lilies love water and should be watered regularly.

• Martagon hybrids

These are hybrids that appeared thanks to the curly lily. Like its predecessors, they easily cope with frost. They love partial shade, but they can survive in areas with direct sunlight. After planting in one place, they can grow for about 10 years, and sometimes even longer. This hybrid does not like transplanting, it is not picky about the composition of the soil. It begins to bloom at the end of June, but after planting it may not release buds for about 2 years.Plant height reaches 180 cm.

• Candidum or snow-white lily

White lilies

This hybrid is based on the royal lily, which was crossed with European and Chalcedony lily varieties. In its natural environment, it occurs in humid climates, grows in rocky areas. You can grow this species in the garden anywhere, giving it, preferring sunny, protected from the wind areas. The shoot of this variety is very high and does not bend, so it can easily break in a strong wind. It has medicinal properties, therefore it is widely used in folk medicine. Includes a small number of varieties that differ in white or slightly yellowish flowers.

Snow-white Candidum (Lilium candidum) in pure translation means snow-white, like its giant inflorescences blooming in summer. The flower of the Madonna is also called, because the famous icon has an image of the Virgin Mary with a baby, in her hand she holds a white lily.

• Longiflorum hybrids (Longiflorum)

Plants that love warmth very much. Growing them in cold climates is not easy as the flowers will need shelter to do this. It has rather large bell-shaped flowers, whose sizes can vary from 15 to 20 cm. They are endowed with an unforgettable aroma, but at the same time they are very delicate and require special attention. They are grown from bulbs in the house or in a greenhouse.

• Tubular varieties

It is based on Asian lilies. These flowers are preferred by many gardeners as they require little or no maintenance. The plant blooms for about 3 months, but if it grows in the southern region, then it will delight you with its beauty until October.

These include popular varieties such as:

1. Sunburst
2. Pink
3. Golden Showers
4. Royal
5. Hearts Desire

These hybrids are able to withstand the variability of the weather, multiply with ease and cope with diseases caused by the activity of fungi and viruses. But only to grow these varieties, you need fertile land.

• Oriental grade

It has rather large corrugated flowers, about 30 cm in diameter, and also has a rich aroma. The height of the lilies can vary from 40 cm and reach 120 cm. It pleases with its flowering in August and September.

Famous oriental hybrids:

1. Mona lisa
2. Sorbonne
3. Golden lily
4. Brazil
5. Japanese

They have some disadvantages, among which it is worth noting poor reproduction, they are often attacked by various diseases, and are poorly resistant to frost.

Numerous crosses of different species among themselves, in order to obtain varieties with mixed qualities, marked the beginning of the emergence of new subspecies. The two most popular are OT and LA bands, but there are many more.

• OT hybrids

Arose as a result of crossing the oriental and tubular lilies. Funnel-shaped and wide-bowl flowers are endowed with a strong unforgettable aroma, and are also famous for their original and bright colors. Basically, the height of the plant reaches 180 cm, but under favorable conditions for growing hybrids, they can grow up to 2.5 m in height.

• La hybrids

These are all recently bred lilies, which have appeared thanks to the Asiatic and long-colored species. They do not have any aroma, they are endowed with large saturated flowers of various colors, which appear in the second half of July. They are able to cope with frost, and also do not require special care. In height they can reach from 80 to 120 cm.

The most popular varieties of hybrids:

Lilies OT-hybrids

Abbreviation for Oriental - Tubular

Terry lily

Pretty Woman - (Lilium Pretty Woman). It grows almost up to a meter in height. Large inflorescences creamy white with a delicate pink.

Anastasia (Lilium Anastasia) Intricately curved leaves of a rich emerald color. Countless flowers of a bright pink hue, with a white spot at the base and a greenish stripe on it.

Robina (Lilium Robina) In a flowering hatch in a height of 1.5 m.Large green leaves with dark areas, Flowers purple-red with a yellowish core.

Scheherazade (Lilium Sheherazade). A giant variety of almost 2.5m. Multiple flowers of a reddish-burgundy hue, edging and a light cream-colored core. Blooms in late summer.

Honeymoon Large but delicate slightly yellowish flowers.

Shocking Pure red flowers are edged with a rather thick golden yellow stripe.

Lilies LA hybrids

Burgundy lilies

The abbreviation stands for Longiflorum Asiatic longiflorum

Frey or Freya (Fray) beautiful golden yellow flowers.

Ercolano (Ercolano) delicate inflorescences of lemon shades with white splashes.

California (California) exquisite cherry color large flowers with green stems.

Brindisi is a tall subspecies, growing 1-1.3 m. Large flowers not of a monochromatic pink color.

Fangio (Fangio) tall lilies up to 1.5-1.6 m. With a deep dark red beetroot color all over the petal.

Lilies A-hybrids

The abbreviation stands for Asiatic Lilies

Tiger

Tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium "Citronella".) Or lanceolate. On a pure yellow background, orange-brown splashes are scattered, petals fancifully twisted outward.

Red Twin. Terry red lilies are not clouded in another tone of a pure shade, with stamens a little darker in color. Blooms early in June - July.

Fata Morgana from a row of yellow lilies. Terry soft yellow multiple flowers interspersed with brown dots in the neck. Blooms in late June or early July.

Ceres. The Asian lily is hybrid with a beetroot-crimson color, which is shaded in a light tone to the edge of a double petal.

Elodie. Double pink lilies. The pink tone lightens to the edge to pallor. In the center is a point of languid tone.

Lilies O-hybrids

The abbreviation stands for Oriental or Oriental Lilies.

Siberia white lily. Highly frost-resistant variety with snow-white inflorescences, with a slightly greenish center.

Lily Carolyn Tensen Huge snow-white inflorescences with a touch of some waxiness, looking slightly to the side. The foliage is light green.

Lilies LO-hybrids

The abbreviation stands for Longiflorum Oriental

Triumphator (White Triumphator), snow-white flowers with a crimson gradient in the center of swirling petals.

Lancon (lilium lankon). With drooping inflorescences of a beautiful pink shade with a large blotch on all petals of burgundy dots.

Lilies T-hybrids

Royal

The abbreviation stands for Tubular Lilies

African Queen has strongly curled orange petals with darker spots on the outside. Dark emerald leaves.

Lily Royal Regale Album (Album) The flower is snow-white with a yellow core and richer in yellow stamens. They do not grow tall, only up to 1 meter.

Pink Perfection Smoky lilac-pink large tubular inflorescences.

Damson Pink flowers with an unexpected shade of fuchsia on tall peduncles.

Rare lilies

Black Beauty (lilium black beauty). Purple tall lily more than 1.5m tall. On the surface of each petal, burgundy dots are scattered.

Lily Henry (henryii). A multi-flowered lily with numerous small flowers (about 7 cm each), orange-apricot in color, with a brown speck. A short "beard" grows at the base of each petal.

Scarlet Delight A rare beauty with burgundy flowers. A light green middle with a white edging comes out from each petal. The outer part of the petal is several tones lighter.

Dwarf lily

It also tolerates frost well, enchants with its miniature beauty and fragrant flowers.

Advice!

In order not to throw money down the drain, decide on the varieties that suit your region. For example, when choosing varieties of lilies for Siberia or for planting in the Urals, remember that Asian or LA hybrids will definitely be suitable, again with them at the base.

Lilies care and growing at home

Liliaceae include a wide variety of flowers, and you can probably choose the most suitable variety. But before deciding on a particular lily, you need to find out what exactly is needed to grow these flowers.

The first thing you need to know about is the variety and group to which your chosen plant belongs. From this will come the correct planting, growing and caring for the lily. Well, no less important is the onion, which should also be carefully selected.

How to plant lilies in spring video review:

How to choose bulbs

When feeling the tubers, pay attention to the following:

1. The onions should be firm, in no case soft or loose to the touch.
2. Clean scales with no rot or mildew
3. Developed roots about 4-5cm
4. The nodule must have a certain weight, that is, it must not be dry and thinned
5. The scales should not be thinned, they must fit snugly to the bulb

Lilies planted in spring may not produce inflorescences in the first year of their life.

The most suitable time to buy plants is August-September. Store purchased bulbs in the refrigerator in the spring. Remember to spray them to keep them dry while they wait to disembark.

Go through and take a good look at the tubers. If they are found sick or with any visible damage to the bulb, they should be removed. All the rest should be dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and held in it for about 5-10 minutes, which will kill all harmful bacteria.

How to plant correctly

The main thing to remember is that the lily has been growing in a permanent place for a fairly long time, so the choice of a place should be approached with all responsibility. You need a slightly elevated sunny place, but with protection from strong winds. It is preferable to plant on the southern sides of buildings or in front of perennial shrub-type plants, not trees. They create too shading.

In order for the plant to please you with its flowering, it is necessary to plant it correctly, observing some rules.

• Remember, the larger the size of the planted tuber, the deeper the hole should be.
• If there are any rodent pests, ward off the lilies with an iron net.
• In autumn, it is necessary to plant bulbs in deeper pits than in spring.
• Planting corms sideways will allow the plant to propagate faster.
• To avoid infection of the lily, sprinkle the ground around it with a small amount of ash or foundation.

Depending on the species, there will also be an acidity that is needed for the selected lily. If your choice was stopped on American varieties, then they need acidic soil, an alkaline substrate is suitable for tubular. Other types of plants will feel great if the acidity of the soil is neutral.

Fall-blooming lily species should be planted in March... Oriental and Asian plant varieties should be placed in the soil as soon as the snow melts. If your choice stopped at other types, then you can start planting them in the ground at the beginning of autumn, but do not forget to insulate them, protecting them from frost.

If you like Candidium, the Canadian and monotonous look, then you should not plant them in the spring, so this is the most inappropriate season for this procedure.

Based on the foregoing, it is worth concluding that the most suitable time for planting lilies in the garden is autumn. This will allow them to take root before the onset of the first frost, and also to get stronger by the beginning of the spring, constantly changing weather.

We plant in open ground

You can determine the depth to which lilies should be planted by paying attention to its bulb. The fact is that the most suitable depth is the size of those bulbs, which is about 10-12 cm.Do not forget to take into account the quality of the soil, since it is worth planting the bulbs a little higher in heavy soil, while in soft light soil you need to slightly increase the depth pits.

LO- and TO- hybrids, which are based on oriental species, are very whimsical, therefore, when planting them, you should not dig a very deep hole, because germination will take away a lot of their strength and they will not be able to release flowers. The most suitable depth for a hole is about 7 cm. In autumn, these lilies should be well covered with dry foliage and a thin layer of soil. This will keep the area where the tuber hibernates dry.

Flowers planted in spring should be watered abundantly, but lilies planted in autumn should not be moistened.

How to care for lilies

• The first thing to consider is the correct watering of the plants. If summer and spring are dry, and there is too little snow in winter, then lilies should be watered regularly. Under normal weather conditions, the flower is able to feed on the moisture that the tubers accumulated at the time of snow melting in the spring.
• In the event that it becomes necessary to water the lily, then the water must be poured at the root.
• Be sure to loosen the soil and remove any weeds that appear around them, as they take up all the nutrients.
• When cutting flowers, leave the leaves on the plant, which will allow it to accumulate nutrients necessary for the healthy life of the tuber in winter.
• Lilies planted in spring are rather weak, therefore, when they release the first flowers, they should be removed, which will allow them to grow better. Next year, the plant will be stronger, which means that its flowers will be large, bright and beautiful.
• As a rule, by about 4 years of their life, the flowers on the lily become smaller. In order for the plant to again begin to delight you with its inflorescences for 5 or 6 years, transplant it, not forgetting to divide the bulbs.
• Tall lilies need support.
• As soon as the flowering is completely completed and the shoot has dried up, it must be cut off, leaving a stump of about 15 cm above the ground.In late autumn, you have to carefully pull it out of the soil and cover the place where the tuber remained, thereby preparing it for wintering.

Do I need to fertilize lilies

It is imperative to feed the plant, no matter how fertile the soil is. For this, you can use both peat fertilizers and humus or rotted compost in a ratio of 1 bucket per 1 square meter. In the event that the land includes sandy impurities, then in order to improve its quality you will need phosphorus - potassium fertilizers. They must be used before planting the bulbs, using 100g of top dressing per square meter of soil.

How to propagate and transplant

1. The easiest way is to divide the bulb. But it is very long, since it will take about several years to form a young large tuber. The bulbs are dug up and planted in the fall. After the bulbs have been dug up, they must be immediately placed in the area where they will grow in the future.
2. The so-called babies that appear at the base of the shoot are used to reproduce almost all types of lilies. Remember, the deeper the bulb is planted, the more babies it will bring.
3. The tubers have scales that are capable of forming bulbs. This method has its advantage, since only one scale is capable of producing from 1 to 4 tubers. They are formed from 2 to 3 years. To propagate a lily in this way, the spring or autumn period is best suited. But you need to use only healthy scales from one third to half of the onion.
4. In the axils of plants, the so-called air bulbs are formed, which are usually called bulbs. They usually appear after the lily has stopped blooming. As soon as their formation is complete, the bulbs will fall to the ground. Collect them and sow them in open ground or in a special container. But before you decide to breed lilies this way, make sure that the variety you choose is suitable for this purpose.

Pests and diseases

There are the following diseases and pests that can harm these plants:

• Lily beetle.

The leaves and buds of the plant can be affected not only by adults, but also by the larvae. In order to get rid of them, you need to manually remove them from the leaves. Treatment of lilies with karbofos, actelik or phytoverm will also be effective.

• Flies and aphids.

Fitoverm, Karbofos or Aktara will help you rid your flowers of these pests.

• Wireworm, Medvedka and May Beetles.

Preparations called grizzly, thunder and fly eater will save the plant from unwanted guests.

• Fusarium or as it is also called onion rot.

It is the most common lily disease. It can be easily identified as brown spots form on the leaves and flowers. Occurs due to abundant watering or temperature drops. Loosening the earth and spraying with copper-containing preparations will allow you to save the flower from such an ailment.

• Bacterial rot.

This disease occurs in the spring and is characterized by yellow spots on the foliage and stem. As a result of this attack, the leaves begin to rot and fall off. The reason may be an excess of nitrogenous fertilizer and moisture. To heal the plant, stop fertilizing it and water it much less often.

• Root rot.

If the upper part of the flowers turned yellow, then the plant was probably attacked by this ailment. Brown spots can be found on the roots. The cause of the occurrence can be both the purchase of a bad bulb and unfriendly soil. All you need to do is cut off the affected areas and cover them with brilliant green.

• Rust.

A disease that will attack the lily foliage. Small orange specks appear on the leaves, causing them to dry out. This disease is transmitted by purchased infected bulbs. In order to cure the plant, you need to process it using a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid. Fungicides are also suitable as a drug.

How to properly cover lilies before the onset of cold weather

Those plants that are planted slightly deep should be covered before the onset of the first frost. Flowers planted in deeper holes can be covered after the ground is slightly frozen.

In the autumn period, spruce branches and dry foliage are used to shelter lilies, which allows them not to freeze in winter and wake up in a timely manner in spring. Sheltered plants should not be opened in early spring after the onset of the first mild frosts. A little later, they will delight you with their active growth.

In order for the flowers not to start to rot in winter, they must be covered with a rainy autumn film, which will keep the site dry.

If there are late frosts in your region, which occur both in May and early June, then cover the place where the lily is planted with burlap or special covering material.

Important!

In our climate, Asian varieties, as well as LA hybrids, do not require any shelter before the onset of winter. But this cannot be said about oriental varieties and their varieties, since winter frosts can harm them.

Lilies care in spring after winter

The main care is to remove the cover, if you applied it - on time. Regularly weed out and loosen the soil around the sprouts that have appeared, you do not need to do this earlier, because of the risk, it is easy to cut off the beginning sprout. And then take care of it as described above. By regulating watering and fertilization.

Combination with other plants in landscape design

Tall lilies are very often planted in separate islands in the same tone, or vice versa, mixing variegated varieties. Miniature subspecies will be favorably planted in the form of a low-growing curb.

A good solution would be to plant undersized violets or marigolds next to chic peonies or verbena, which will cover the roots of the lilies and help retain the necessary moisture, and after the lily has faded, they will cover the ugly wilting stems.

In the background, a good solution would be to plant astilba or evergreen juniper, fern or variegated hosta. All of these plants need partial shade that a growing lily can provide.

No one will dispute the opinion that any lily and any rose, for example a floribunda rose, will look great together in plantings.

All varieties of lilies have their own individual characteristics, both in decorative terms and in climatic, and they just need to be taken into account during their placement in the landscape.After all, they differ not only in color, but also in height, flowering time and period, care and planting features.

OT hybrids of Santarello lily in the garden video: