Hydrangea anabel planting and care in the open field in the suburbs

If you want to get a large and beautiful plant in your garden that will bring large and numerous inflorescences with a pleasant aroma, but at the same time do not require complex care for yourself, and also get along well in most climatic zones of the CIS countries, the tree hydrangea Anabel is exactly what what you need and more. But first things first!

Description of the plant

The tree-like hydrangea "Anabel" was known to mankind 300 centuries ago, when the colonialists began to inhabit North America, and found this unusual and striking plant in the area of ​​the present state of Ohio. In general, the date of discovery of this variety is considered to be 1746. The plant was successfully shipped and propagated in the Gulf Stream nursery, which served as its distribution throughout the world.

The appearance of the plant is in the form of a large shrub, which is not always green, but sheds its leaves during the cold season. The crown of the shrub is large, domed and spreading, and its height can reach 1.5-3 meters.

At the same time, a shrub grows about 15 cm per year, which is a very good indicator for such a large perennial plant. The crown diameter can reach 3-5 meters, which means that when planting a hydrangea, you should expect that it takes up a lot of space.

Hydrangea tree has several varieties, the most common of which are as follows:

1. Hortense Annabelle or Annabelle, both versions of the name are correct. We will focus on it in the article;
2. Hydrangea Incredibol, this variety was bred from "Anabel" in the course of breeding work;
3. "Wild" tree hydrangea, as well as some other, lesser known varieties.

Hydrangea "Anabel" has a number of the following characteristics, indicated below:

1. Hydrangea Annabel has several color variations, but the base color is considered to be a light green color, which changes to white as the inflorescences form. Also very beautiful is the pink color variation called "Pink". Some gardeners consider it a separate species of tree hydrangea;
2. It is characterized by its larger size, since it can grow up to 3 meters in height, with an incredibly large crown diameter;
3. Has a long flowering period. So, "Anabel" begins to bloom at the very beginning of summer, and ends almost at the very end of autumn;
4. The variety has large inflorescences (25-30 cm in diameter), and sometimes reaching a record 35 cm, which are even able to bend young shoots to the ground. All over the world, there are no more than 10 types of flowers that can boast of such dimensions.

Hydrangea "Incredibol" is a more modest variety, as it reaches a height of 1-1.5 meters, but at the same time has inflorescences up to 30 cm in diameter. The inflorescences have a spherical shape of a lush structure, painted in white, less often pink.

Flowering occurs from June to September. In general, the variety is very similar to the basic form of hydrangea tree-like, but has larger inflorescences than "Anabel".

Landing conditions

Despite conflicting information as to whether it is worth planting the tree hydrangea "Anabel" in areas with open sun, or it is worth limiting ourselves to partial shade, most gardeners tend to the first option. Since the most lush flowering has always been observed precisely on the bushes located in an open area, washed from all sides by the sun's rays.

This feature is explained by the fact that the variety originally originated in the Ohio area, which is characterized by long and hot summers, as well as relatively short, but cool winters. Despite this, on the most abnormally hot summer days, the hydrangea can be covered with an awning, so that the sun's rays do not burn the tips of the delicate flower petals, spoiling the appearance.

Remember, tree hydrangea does not tolerate soil with lime impurities, and if even a formed bush is planted in such soil, it will inevitably die. Hydrangea tree-like "Anabel" is unassuming to the soil, but it feels best in clay soil, or soil with high acidity.

Planting in soil with abundant admixtures of sand is also undesirable if lush flowering is important to you (sand does not retain the nutrients necessary for the formation of large inflorescences).

Hydrangea is planted in autumn or spring, depending on the climate. So, if you live in the northern regions, plant tree hydrangea planting material in the spring, before bud break. In a warmer climate, it is possible to plant a hydrangea in early autumn, but in this case, planting should be carried out with a cuttings.

Given the large size of the inflorescences, they can easily be damaged by the wind. To avoid this situation, just plant a bush next to a fence, fence or wall.

Planting process, step by step instructions

Planting all varieties of tree hydrangea is simple, and consists of the following points:

1. Digging a hole, the depth of which will depend on the soil. In heavy soils with clay impurities, the hole should be 70 cm deep, with a diameter of 60 cm. On cultivated loamy soils, the planting hole should be about 60 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter. On light soils, the size of the planting pit should be 50 cm deep and 40 cm in diameter. The information is relevant only for cuttings 2-3 years old, since they are the best option for growing any sort of hydrangea, especially in the cool conditions of the CIS countries;
2. It is recommended to lay out a gravel drainage layer at the bottom of the pit. The layer thickness should be in the order of 10-15 cm;
3. The fertile soil, which we talked about above, is poured onto the drainage with a layer of 15 cm. The soil can be purchased in the store, if necessary, ordinary black soil is also suitable;
4. The stalk is acquired with an earthy clod on the roots, and is planted in such a way that its roots look strictly around the circumference, not bending up or down;
5. The cutting is covered with fertile soil in such a way that the root collar is immersed in the ground by only 2 cm. Tamp the soil tightly so that it does not sag in the future;
6. The planted cutting is watered with water in the amount of 20-25 liters;
7. Landing in the open field can be considered complete.

Many gardeners practice harvesting a hole 2 weeks before planting a cuttings in it, initially filling it with fertile soil, but this is important for more demanding varieties of hydrangea, since in such cases organic fertilizers are also added to the soil. Hydrangea tree-like "Anabel" can be successfully planted in any of two ways (not fundamentally).

Further care

A detailed description of the subsequent care of the cuttings and young plants is given below:

1. Hydrangea tree-like "Anabel" is able to withstand drought, but in this case it may not bloom this year. For abundant flowering, hydrangea is watered about 2 times a week if it is a young stalk, and once a week if it is an adult plant. During the hot summer, watering can be increased up to 2-3 times a week. It is necessary to water in such a way that the soil is always slightly moistened. If you do not know whether it is worth watering the hydrangea or not, you should deepen your finger into the ground near the bush to a depth of 3 cm, and if the soil is wet there, then watering is not required, if it is dry, water;
2. Loosen the soil at least 2 times a year, to a depth of about 5 cm, which will improve the supply of oxygen to the roots;
3. The first feeding of the planted cuttings is carried out next spring, adding organic fertilizers to the soil for the period of growth and development of foliage, mineral fertilizers during the formation of inflorescences, and optionally (organic or mineral fertilizers) in the middle and late summer. In the fall, feeding is stopped.

The need for spraying

Spraying hydrangeas is not required. Of course, after a hot day, the flowers will not be damaged by moisturizing with cool water from a spray bottle, but globally, hydrangea is indifferent to this. Moreover, it is very problematic to spray an adult bush, sometimes reaching the height of human growth, and even greater width.

Attitude to drafts

All varieties of hydrangea do not tolerate drafts well, and with prolonged exposure, they begin to wither, and then die, regardless of the growing conditions. Draft is the worst enemy of any hydrangea!

Pruning

Pruning can be done in late March and early April, but skeletal branches should not be pruned at this time. In the autumn, when the bush has thrown off its leaves and entered the sleep phase, skeletal branches can also be cut off. Also, the hydrangea can be completely cut off in order to start forming the bush again, but in this case, this must be done when they reach the age of 4.

Branches cut in spring can be used as cuttings, even though they do not have roots, but in this case, caring for them will require more experience and strength.

Pests and the fight against them

Hydrangea tree-like "Anabel" is susceptible to attack by all types of aphids, spider mites, shiny leaf beetles, weevils, and all types of garden bugs. As for other pests, they can also infect hydrangeas, but most often they prefer food crops, and harm hydrangeas only in rare cases.

Store preparations, of which there are a great many at the moment, will help get rid of parasites and pests. As for prevention, it should be carried out taking into account the following points:

1. Add 1 kg of dried alder leaves to 10 liters of water, and leave for 12 hours, then spray the bush once a month;
2. Place 500 grams of grated garlic in 3 liters of water, and leave for 5 days. After that, add 60 ml of this infusion to 10 liters of water, rub 50 grams of laundry soap there, and spray the bush once a month.

Conclusion

Today we have carried out a detailed description of the tree hydrangea "Anabel", as well as its varieties "Incredibol", having familiarized ourselves with their photos along the way.However, be careful, as the tree hydrangea "Anabel" is very similar to the panicle hydrangea, because both are characterized by a white color.

Do not confuse this variety, as panicle hydrangea is a more spreading plant, but even easier to maintain. Hydrangea tree-like "Anabel" is not suitable for growing in conditions with short summers and long winters, while paniculata grows even there!

Hydrangea tree planting and care in the open field - video - articles

Hydrangea tree planting and care in the open field - video - "articles"

Spring work with tree hydrangea is not much different from work with other flowering shrubs. As the snow melts, the airing of the plant begins, if it was completely covered, when the snow melts completely, the bush can be opened.

Important! It is imperative to take measures to protect against possible sunburn and drying out of the kidneys; it is best to create artificial shading for this, using spruce branches or any agrotechnical fabric.

If the necessary fertilizers were not applied in the fall, and the soil was not mulched, it is necessary to water and feed the bushes and loosen the soil along with mulch. Since weeds wake up almost the very first, it is necessary to remove them.

You will also have to carefully monitor the weather: in case of a risk of frost, it would be better to cover the hydrangea for a short time so that its flowering begins on time.
Of course, spring pruning is carried out - shoots damaged by frost are removed.

Peculiarities of agricultural technology of tree hydrangea in the Urals and Siberia

The harsh continental climate of the Ural and Siberian regions is characterized by severe winters, when frosts reach -35-45 0 С, and short summers. Accordingly, adjustments are being made to the basic agrotechnical rules for growing tree hydrangea. At the same time, for cultivation, it is necessary to select zoned varieties, that is, the most adapted to difficult climatic conditions.

Important! Planting of tree hydrangea seedlings in open ground in the Ural and Siberian regions is carried out only at the end of spring, when the ground is completely thawed out and the risks of return frosts will be excluded.

The place for the hydrangea should be reliably protected from the winds by buildings or a windproof fence. Rooted seedlings need abundant watering. With a lack of moisture during the growing season, there is a threat of hydrangea freezing in winter. Pruning is done in early spring. The length of the branches after pruning should not exceed 30 cm.

Even a completely winter-hardy treelike hydrangea needs shelter in the harsh Ural and Siberian winters. Young plants are first bent to the ground, and then covered, and adult tall plants are wrapped in agrofibre. As the snow falls, it is scooped up to the bushes: the higher the snowdrift, the easier it will be for the plant to endure the winter.

It would be even better to prepare a "refuge" for the wintering of hydrangeas: a wire frame that will be about 15-20 cm from the tied bush and exceed it by the same distance. The entire space between the bush and the frame is covered with dry foliage. Such a "natural fur coat" will reliably protect the hydrangea from the most terrible frosts.

Subject to these, as well as the general growing conditions, tree hydrangea in the Urals and Siberia will delight with flowering from July to mid-September.

Features of growing hydrangea tree in the Moscow region

The climatic features of the Moscow region (a combination of a harsh continental climate with the influence of the Atlantic Ocean) - a relatively cold winter and a moderately hot summer - practically do not have a special effect on the agricultural technology of growing tree hydrangea. It is successfully grown in the Moscow region, without any special requirements for wintering conditions.

Young plants, of course, in the early years should be covered for the winter, but for adults this is no longer necessary.Even if some branches suffer from frost, hydrangea quickly recovers. The main thing is that the roots are reliably covered.

However, special attention should be paid to the choice of the variety. During the lingering summer rains characteristic of the Moscow region, especially large inflorescences get wet, become very heavy and literally break down the bushes. Branches with flowers fall on the ground, possibly rotting.

Important! Gardeners of the Moscow Region recommend planting varieties of tree hydrangea with smaller inflorescences both to preserve the aesthetics of planting and to minimize the risks of fungal infections of plants.

Planting tree hydrangea seedlings in open ground is carried out only in the spring, after the threat of recurrent frosts has passed. Pruning is also done in the spring, before the start of the growing season.

Reproduction of tree hydrangea

The best, more effective way of propagation of a tree hydrangea is its cuttings. Cuttings are cut from the shoots of the last season until mid-summer, that is, before the onset of their complete woodiness. Cuttings should have an oblique lower cut, a straight upper cut and one internode. At the same time, the leaves on the handle are cut in half.

Important! For cutting cuttings, preference should be given to the apical shoots. Such cuttings take root rather quickly, and the mother plant itself will look neater.

The cuttings are immediately planted in a ready-made nutritious soil mixture, which is then covered with earth. To maintain a humid microclimate, containers with cuttings are covered with plastic wrap. The film is removed when strong foliage appears.

Usually, cuttings take root completely within 2-3 weeks, so they can be planted in a permanent place already in August. If there is a risk of a very cold winter, it is best to leave them to winter at home. At the same time, it is important not to forget about timely abundant watering. Watch a video on the correct grafting of a tree hydrangea.

Hydrangea and layering reproduce. In the spring, the young shoot bends down to the ground and digs in: an incision is made on the shoot in the place of digging into which a match is inserted, and the hole for digging in should be 15 cm deep. The place of the incision will become the point of root growth. A year later, that is, for the next season, a new bush is separated (usually a branch-cut is cut with a shovel) and moved to its place.

Tree hydrangea can also be propagated during transplantation, when a healthy strong bush is divided into two or more independent plants, which will give abundant flowering in the very first year.

You can also propagate hydrangea and seeds, but this is a long process, and a new plant will be ready for planting in open ground only after a few years.

Plant diseases and pests

In most cases, hydrangeas growing outdoors are rarely affected by disease. The exception is chlorosis associated with a deficiency of iron or manganese in the soil, a characteristic feature of which is the pallor of the leaves (yellow-green color) and the absence of flowering. To cope with chlorosis, drugs like Ferrovit, which are sprayed on plants, as well as watering with a solution of iron salts, help.

Important! Under unfavorable weather conditions, as well as with an abundance of weeds, the bushes can also be affected by some fungal diseases.

Tracheomycotic wilting caused by soil pathogenic fungi. Roots begin to turn brown and rot, followed by withering of the upper shoots. The situation is hopeless, the flower is irretrievably dying, so prevention will be the best remedy: timely weeding and removal of dry foliage.

Gray rot is also a fungal disease that primarily affects young shoots. Light gray rashes appear on the leaves. It is provoked by high humidity (over-watering, prolonged rains). The affected parts of the plant should be removed and destroyed, the plant should be treated with Fundazol.

Powdery mildew is also caused by fungi that live directly in the soil. It is also necessary to remove and burn all affected parts, and treat the entire plant with Fundazol or Vitaros.

Similarly, hydrangea is rarely attacked by pests, since it contains hydrocyanic acid in the leaves and stems. The most common pests of hydrangeas are aphids and spider mites. They are either removed mechanically, or the whole plant is treated with Fitoverm.

To a much greater extent, hydrangeas are threatened by snails, which most often eat the roots of the plant. Usually, regular inspection of the bush and mechanical collection of snails is sufficient, but in the event of their invasion, it would be advisable to use chemicals such as "Thunderstorm" or metaldehyde.

Important! The use of chemical snail protection requires great care. It is better to use folk remedies that will protect the plants from the invasion of snails, but will not harm the beneficial inhabitants of the garden.

The main preparations for plant protection

The natural properties of hydrangea are such that the use of special means is very rarely required: the plant is excellent against diseases and is extremely rarely attacked by pests due to the content of hydrocyanic acid in it.

Nevertheless, anything happens in life, so you need to know what drugs can help the plant in an emergency.

Copper sulfate is used as a disinfectant for both soil and plants in the event that the buds do not bloom. It is important to remember that during the growing season, plants are not treated with copper sulfate, as it burns the leaves a lot.

Bordeaux liquid is used to combat fungal infections. Not being dangerous for the plant, it nevertheless worsens its appearance to some extent (lime spots remain on the leaves).

Therefore, it is preferable to use full-fledged substitutes: copper oxychloride, Topaz or Fitosporin preparations. For pest control of hydrangeas, the most effective means are Intavir, Decis, Iskra, Fitoverm.

Rust problems

Rust on hydrangeas occurs as a result of infection with a rust fungus. This can happen due to overfeeding the plant with nitrogen fertilizers, as well as due to prolonged rainy weather. Rust first of all affects the root system, and then its signs - characteristic yellow-brown spots - appear on the leaves.

The fight against rust at this stage is very difficult, so it is better to initially prevent its appearance by carrying out simple measures:

Special anti-rust products that are sold in stores can help, but the process will be lengthy. Most often, these funds are intended for watering and spraying, but if possible, if not all shoots are affected, it is better to remove and burn the infected ones. This measure will also protect against rust and other plants on the site.

A beautiful tree hydrangea can and should become a garden decoration. Its abundant flowering, starting in July and lasting until the very cold, can create a special atmosphere on the site - exquisitely stylish or romantic, depending on the wishes of the owners.

With strict adherence to all the rules of planting and caring for hydrangea in the open field, its delicate lace inflorescences are guaranteed to ensure the uniqueness of any flower garden or add charm to a smooth lawn.

Video tips for growing tree hydrangea

Everlasting hydrangeas. treelike, paniculate. planting and care in the open field. photo of a nerd. ru

Everlasting hydrangeas. treelike, paniculate. planting and care in the open field. photo - nerd. ru

Treelike hydrangea adorns itself with inflorescences-shields that resemble balls. The bush itself is upright, 1-2m high.Leaves with long petioles, oval, serrate at the edges, not pubescent, green above, glaucous below, 6 to 20 cm long. The diameter of white or cream or greenish inflorescences is on average 12 cm, and in garden forms they are even larger.

Another positive quality is fast growth, the shoots lengthen by 20 cm in a year! It takes only 3 years for the seedling to turn into a luxurious bush, all covered with inflorescences.

Hydrangea treelike, cultivar 'Pink Anabelle'

On the basis of tree hydrangea, many beautiful garden forms and varieties have been bred. Let us introduce you to some of those who are not afraid of frosts in the middle lane.

Hydrangea tree, variety 'Anabelle'

Hydrangea paniculata

Panicle hydrangea has a pyramidal shape of inflorescences. It usually grows in the form of a bush with straight branchy shoots, less often a tree up to 5m tall is found. Young shoots are pubescent, reddish-brown. The leaves are velvety, up to 15 cm long, ovoid, dense to the touch, dark green above, lighter below. Inflorescences up to 30 cm long. As a rule, during flowering, their color changes, which makes this type of hydrangea even more attractive. The following varieties and garden forms are especially good.

Hydrangea paniculata, grade 'Grandiflora'

Hydrangea paniculata, variety 'Vanille Fraise'Hydrangea paniculata, grade 'Pinky Winky'Hydrangea paniculata, grade 'Limelight'

Hydrangea garden planting and care in the open field, types and varieties, diseases

Garden hydrangea: planting and care in the open field, types and varieties, diseases

It has slightly pubescent large ovoid (elliptical) long leaves (about 12 cm), especially powerful in the lower part of the plant. This gives a special crown density.

It justifies its name by the presence of wide-pyramidal panicles of large flowers. They grow up to 25 cm and are excellent honey plants. At the beginning of flowering (June), it has a white color of small petals, which gradually turn pink, sometimes turn purple, and at the end (October) acquire a greenish range. Such changes are typical for all its varieties. After flowering, fruit-boxes appear, in which a large number of small seeds ripen with 95% viability.

Her most popular varieties:

Other varieties of paniculate species are also widespread, namely: Brussels Leys, Kiushu, Pink Diamond, Presox, Floribunda.

Tree hydrangea

Treelike hydrangea, native to the North of the United States, is fast growing, winter hardy, and more commonly known as white globular / bushy. It takes root well in the cold climate of the Urals and Siberia on moist soil saturated with lime. However, with very frosty winters, there is a threat of freezing.

This species appears to be a short shrub, growing up to 2.5 m. Its large opposite leaves on several drooping shoots are ovoid / elliptical in shape with jagged edges and a heart-shaped notch. They are distinguished by juicy green on top and bluish on the back. Due to their size and original shape, the leaves create a rounded, luxurious crown.

Globular / hemispherical inflorescences are also quite large (up to 20 cm in diameter) and are located on annual young shoots at the very end. Their flowers (large sterile, small fertile) grow in a chaotic manner. Until full blooming, the inflorescences have a pale green tint, and when opened, they turn into cream, milky, and then white.

These transformations begin 4 years after planting the bush in early July and before the onset of cold weather. Flowering ends with the formation of fruits with a miniature seed capsule about 3 mm in size.

The most famous varieties of this species are:

Other varieties

Other varieties are represented by plants such as:

Hydrangea is the princess of the garden. Planting and leaving

If the rose is called the queen of the garden, then the hydrangea can rightfully claim the title of princess. Hydrangeas are very popular among gardeners. About 35 species of them are grown. Most often, hydrangea is a profusely flowering shrub, but small trees are also found. And even creepers.

In our latitudes, out of 35 species, only 5 species of hydrangeas are planted and grow: tree, paniculate, petiolate, ground cover and large-leaved. All of them are good in their own way, but the most ornamental gardeners consider the large-leaved hydrangea.

Planting hydrangeas

The best time to plant hydrangeas is early spring, when the soil has already thawed, and the buds are just about to bloom. It must be remembered that hydrangeas are demanding on the soil. They love fertile, light, acidic soils, do not feel well on sandy soils and do not tolerate calcareous soils at all. The depth of the planting pit is 40-50 cm, the diameter is at least 40 cm. A drainage is placed at the bottom of the planting hole - a layer of gravel or broken bricks, then half a bucket of peat mixed with 2 tablespoons of complex mineral fertilizer is poured. Experts recommend using a soil mixture of 2 parts of humus, 2 parts of fertile soil, 1 part of peat and 1 part of sand for planting. Before planting a sapling, the broken and damaged shoots and roots are cut off with a secateurs.

> The roots of the hydrangea seedling are spread in the planting pit in different directions, sprinkled with prepared soil mixture on top. The root collar should be flush with the soil level on the site. The deepening of the root collar is allowed no more than 2 cm, otherwise the plant will develop poorly. The soil mixture in the planting pit is carefully tamped and watered with 2 buckets of water so that the whole mixture is saturated with moisture. The final stage is mulching the trunk circle to avoid drying out the soil.

Hydrangea large-leaved care

If the planting of hydrangeas is the same for all five species, then caring for them is somewhat different. More precisely, the care of large-leaved hydrangea is different, which must be cultivated differently than paniculate, petiolate, tree-like. In the photo below, the hydrangea is large-leaved.

The thing is that large-leaved hydrangea, unlike the rest of the species grown in our gardens, blooms on last year's shoots. That is, in the large-leaved hydrangea, flower buds are laid in the fall at the ends of the shoots. In the spring, these buds wake up and eventually produce huge caps of flowers. If last year's shoots freeze in winter or the gardener, due to inexperience, will prune the bush in spring, then the large-leaved hydrangea will not please him with flowering. Moreover, damage to last year's shoots can even lead to the death of the entire bush. Remember: the large-leaved hydrangea is never cut off!

In the spring, a complex mineral fertilizer is applied to the trunk circle of large-leaved hydrangea. Even better, it is a special fertilizer for hydrangeas, rich in magnesium and iron, which acidify the soil around the bush. And hydrangea, as we remember, loves sour soils. In summer, hydrangeas are fed with mineral fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium, excluding nitrogen. In addition, when feeding, you need to take into account which hydrangea flowers are pink or blue. For blue hydrangeas (see photo), aluminum sulfate is added to the fertilizer or the bushes are watered with a solution of iron salts.

To obtain a pink and crimson color on acidic soils, you can add chalk or dolomite flour to the trunk circle several times per season to raise the soil pH to 6.0-6.2. And do not forget to water the beauty regularly and abundantly!

At the end of October, the large-leaved hydrangea is covered to preserve the flower buds. The shoots are carefully bent and pinned to the ground, a bucket of peat is poured into the center of the bush. Further, all this is covered with a dense covering material and covered with fallen leaves. Such a "coat" will not allow delicate flower buds to freeze.

Curly hydrangea (petiolate)

Stalked hydrangea is the only liana in our gardens, other species are very thermophilic, so they do not take root here.

After planting, small seedlings should be sprayed with water 3-4 times a week. For an adult plant in the spring, in May, the first top dressing is introduced into the trunk circle. Hydrangea is fertilized with slurry in a ratio of 1:10 and a complex mineral fertilizer. In the future, during the growing season, the petiolate hydrangea is fed another 3-4 times with complex mineral fertilizer. Watering should be plentiful, especially in drought - at least 2 buckets of water under one plant once a week. For the winter, the petiolate hydrangea is bent to the ground, the shoots are pinned and covered with fallen leaves.

Hydrangea Anabel

Hydrangea Annabel, blooming with huge white caps of flowers, belongs to the tree-like hydrangea and is one of the most popular varieties.

After planting, the little Anabelle hydrangea needs to be protected from the hot sun and strong winds. In the first two years, you need to remove the inflorescences without regret so that the plant grows stronger and grows shoots. In May - feeding with slurry and complex fertilizers - just like with petiole hydrangea. In summer - abundant watering. Top dressing 3-4 times a season with mineral fertilizers, but without fanaticism, because Anabel's inflorescences can turn green. In the fall, the inflorescences are pruned. In early spring, the bush is pruned to obtain larger inflorescences, leaving 2-3 buds on the shoot. Weak and damaged shoots are also removed.

Hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea paniculata in cultivation is also unpretentious, as well as tree-like. In early spring, she needs pruning, which is carried out before the buds open. Strong pruning is recommended for abundant flowering. Further, the already familiar cycle - in May, feeding with organic matter and complex mineral fertilizer, then three or four additional fertilizing with mineral fertilizers during the growing season and abundant watering. To strengthen the shoots of panicle hydrangea, it is also recommended to water the bush with a solution of potassium permanganate once a month - 0.5 g per bucket. You can grow the same gorgeous panicle hydrangea bush as in the photo:

Hydrangea pink

Since 2008, a pink hydrangea has appeared in the family of large-leaved hydrangeas, which blooms on the shoots of the current year. Nevertheless, it also needs to be covered for the winter, just not so thoroughly. Experts recommend to cover the pink hydrangea bush with a bucket of peat for the winter, and cut off all the shoots above the peat level, and then cover the bush with a covering material. At the base of the bush, buds are laid, from which flower shoots then grow. Such a shelter will protect the kidneys from freezing. Before sheltering, it is necessary to remove all leaves from the pink hydrangea, because the remnants of the leaves increase the moisture and thereby create excellent conditions for the development of fungi and mold. As a result, this can lead to damping of the shoots by the spring. Otherwise, the care is the same as for other large-leaved hydrangeas. The photo below shows that such a large-leaved pink hydrangea with large "caps" of inflorescences grows well and blooms in our area.

Summing up the recommendations for care, we can say the following:

Hydrangeas need abundant watering.

Hydrangeas need regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

Hydrangeas, with the exception of large-leaved and petiolate hydrangeas, need a short pruning in early spring to obtain luxurious inflorescences.

Large-leaved hydrangea cannot be pruned and is carefully covered for the winter.

When to plant Hydrangea paniculata, tree-like or anabel, we understand the varieties!

If you are looking for a spectacular plant for your garden, then hydrangea is a great option. A variety of varieties (about 80!) Allows you to choose the color and shape of the inflorescences, and the unpretentiousness of the plant will take you a little time to care.

Hydrangea lives from 3 to 6 years, grows quickly, blooms thickly and for a long time.

Hydrangea has many types, the most popular of them are two, the first is paniculate. With him, the hydrangea does not have a main trunk, but is a bush. The second type is called tree-like, such a hydrangea grows centrally and takes the shape of a small tree.

Growing hydrangeas from seeds

Hydrangea is planted in early spring or early fall. This type of plant feels good in soil with a high level of acidity, if alkali is present in the ground, hydrangea gets sick with chlorosis of the leaves.

It is necessary to choose a place for planting hydrangeas taking into account the fact that it does not tolerate the wind well. A hedge or fence will be excellent drafts defenders. At the same time, the place itself should not be in the open sun, then the hydrangea will begin to dry out, but the shady side also does not fit, flowering will be scarce.

When planting hydrangea seeds, you need to carefully take care of the soil. It should contain peat, coarse sand, soil with leaves, humus and complex fertilizers.

Growing hydrangeas from seeds is a difficult task, so for close supervision you can plant the seeds first in a pot and then transplant them outside. Having made a planting in the spring, after a month you will see shoots.

Reproduction and planting in the open field

Cutting - the hole for the appendix should not be deep, but wide, since the roots of the flower are located at the very surface. Seedlings in the springtime should not be chosen with already blossoming buds.

Escape - in order to form shoots from an adult bush, it is necessary to press flowering, not yet woody branches to the ground. First, you need to make a cut on the branch, and fertilize the trench. Raise the bud itself vertically above the ground. You will receive individual cuttings next year.

Division - it is best to split the bush in April or September. For this, the hydrangea is completely dug up and divided into several parts, depending on the connections in the root system.

3>Flower care

All varieties of hydrangea prefer a high degree of soil moisture. She needs regular watering of the soil within a radius of one and a half meters from the base of the bush. Experienced gardeners advise pruning old shoots of hydrangea in early spring, this is done to create a large volume due to the branching of the bush. If the favorable time for pruning is missed and the plant is already in the flowering phase, then it is better not to touch it, this can weaken the hydrangea.

Regular feeding will give the shrub a healthy look and accelerate the growth of the shoots.

Every two weeks, it is advisable to use liquid fertilizer, organic is enough to add to the soil once a month. At the end of summer, feeding is stopped.

Hydrangea tolerates wintering well. If in your area there is a thick snow cover and not strong winds, then an adult bush can not be covered. For the first winter, a young plant needs a shelter of spruce branches.

Common species and varieties

Hydrangea is represented by many varieties that belong to several types:

Hydrangea paniculata

The most common in the middle lane.

Lime Light. As the name implies, the flowers of this variety are green at first, then brighten to a light lemon shade. The bush is dense, up to 240 cm high, the crown is 180 cm in diameter. This species looks good in dry bouquets.

Vanilla Frais. The inflorescences acquire a red color by the end of summer, and at the beginning they are ivory. The buds are large, the bush itself is not spreading, the height reaches 150 cm.

Silver Dollar. The bush of this variety develops evenly and in adult form reaches 250 cm in width and height. Silver inflorescences have the shape of a pyramid, the color gradually turns from white to pinkish.

Phantom. Compared to other representatives of the paniculate species, this variety has large pyramidal buds. The light creamy shade transforms into pale pink by the end of summer.

Pinkie Winky. Curious double flowering variety.White inflorescences turn pink by August, and then young white buds bloom from them. By the end of summer, you are getting bicolor panicles.

Tree hydrangea

Represented by the following popular varieties:

Annabelle. This is a short bush from 120 to 150 cm, it grows in width to a maximum of 150 cm.It grows quickly, the inflorescences of the Anabel variety are symmetrical, neat, on average 25 cm.The color is creamy white, but experts can influence it by watering with safe dyes. With special skill, you can grow two colors on one bush. Such a result requires perseverance and regular gardening. This variety is extremely popular and, thanks to its selection, has several variations.

Annabel. As the name implies, the color of the inflorescences of this variety is pink. The plant blooms until frost. The bush is the same size as the simple Annabel, the shoots are strong and after the rain they do not spread on the ground. The shape of the buds is spherical, the number of flowers is four times that of the Anabel variety.

Strong Annabel. Rounded inflorescences of a snow-white color increase due to pruning and acquire sizes up to 30 cm. In the spring, a strong pruning is necessary. The variety is frost-resistant and not afraid of diseases.

Grandiflora. She is larger than Anabel and reaches 200 cm in height and 300 cm in diameter. Flowers are white. Hydrangea is oaky It differs from other types of rough and rough leaves:

The Snow Queen. Refers to a more thermophilic species than panicle hydrangea. The leaves are large, dark in color, similar in shape to oak. The flowers change color from white to pale pink.

Large-leaved hydrangea does not tolerate the cold season in the open field, it is taken out in a pot outside only in summer:

Freedom. A unique feature of this variety is that the small flowers have two colors. From just pink, they turn white with a delicate reddish edging.

A feature of almost all types of hydrangea is late flowering, most often the period opens in July, and ends with frost. Therefore, if, along with early blooming flowers, this plant appears in your garden, the landscape will delight the eye during the whole warm season.

Hydrangea Anabel: general information and care recommendations

Hydrangea is an incredibly beautiful flower that will be a great addition to any garden. It looks great both on its own and in combination with other plants, creating a unique composition and riot of colors. Many gardeners love this shrub for its unpretentiousness and ease of care and cultivation, however, there are some nuances that should be considered.

general information

Anabel is a plant in the family of hydrangea treelike shrubs, numbering about 100 species, which can vary significantly. According to its preferences for the type of soil and climatic conditions, as well as in terms of planting and care, Hortense Anabel is not too different from its relatives.

Many gardeners love this shrub for its beautiful leaves, which differ from other plants in a peculiar shape and a bright rich green color. The leaves are oval and rather large in size. The flowering period begins in early autumn, when the shrub transforms and unfolds in its full beauty. Flowers, buds and seed boxes appear on the branches, and the leaves slightly change their color to match the season.

The inflorescences of each type of gornesia differ in shape, color and size. The inflorescence of Hydrangea Annabel resembles a bunch, in which there are small flowers with four petals inside, and as they approach the edges, they increase in size. The color of the inflorescences can change from year to year, as it depends on many factors, the main among which are the quality of the soil and fertilizers.For example, if a shrub grows on soil with a high alkali content, then the inflorescences will have a slight pinkish tint, and on acidic soils, the flowers are obtained with a blue tint. As for the Anabel variety, this type of inflorescence has a very pure white color. At the same time, the color of Anabel's flowers does not depend on any factors and always remains the same.

Features of breeding Hydrangeas Anabel: which soil is better for planting?

The choice of the type of soil should be carried out depending on the variety of Hydrangea. Anabel, in turn, is the most unpretentious shrub, so it perfectly takes root on any soil and in any climatic conditions. However, the best soil is very acidic. If your region has a different soil, then when planting a shrub, the bottom of the hole is lined with peat or special soil that is sold in stores. In addition, you can independently prepare a mixture consisting of peat, chernozem and potassium sulfate, on which the plant will not only take root well, but will also grow very quickly. If none of the above is at hand, then you can use ordinary compost or decayed last year's foliage.

Shrub planting

It is necessary to plant a shrub in a previously prepared hole about half a meter deep. However, here it is necessary to take into account some nuances, since the depth and width of the fossa depends on the characteristics of a particular seedling, namely on the size of its root system. The hole should not be too small so that the roots can breathe normally and do not experience oxygen starvation.

Before planting, the root system should be shortened slightly. This will not only speed up the process of survival of the shrub in a new place, but will also allow you to get a very beautiful and lush bush with a well-formed crown in the future. The bottom of the hole is sprinkled with a layer of peat, rotted foliage, straw or wood chips, which will keep moisture much longer. After placing the seedling in the hole, the root system is carefully sprinkled with earth and well watered so that the moisture gets to the very roots of the bush.

When is it better to plant Hydrangea Anabel

Many experienced gardeners say that it is best to plant Anabel in early spring, when the frosts have subsided and the soil warms up a little. It is very important to have time to plant the shrub before the onset of rapid growth and flowering period. The plant also takes root well in the fall, however, in this case, it is necessary to prepare it for wintering, because, otherwise, it will not withstand frost and will die. Many gardeners plant a seedling in the summer, however, this can only be done if the root system was closed.

Features of plant care

Despite the fact that Anabel is an unpretentious plant, nevertheless, with improper care, it will be impossible to achieve good flowering from the shrub. It is very important to choose a suitable landing site. It is best to do this near any buildings, the shade of which will cover the bush from direct sunlight and the scorching sun. The quality of the soil is also of great importance. The plant can be planted on any type of soil with high acidity.

During the season, Annabelle needs occasional bait. For these purposes, any fertilizer that contains iron, nitrogen and phosphate is suitable. Sour milk can be an alternative to purchased fertilizers. However, do not feed too often, because in this case the inflorescences may lose their natural snow-white color and acquire a greenish tint. But watering, on the contrary, is necessary abundantly and often, since the plant loves moisture very much. Shrub rejuvenation should be performed every spring.

Preparing for winter

Hydrangea Anabel loves a temperate climate and does not tolerate severe frosts very well, so every autumn it should be prepared for wintering. The first step is to drive a peg next to the trunk and tie a bush to it. In this case, you should be extremely careful not to damage the root system. The hole is laid with coniferous branches, which will protect the roots from freezing and prevent the bush from dying.

With proper care, Hortense Annabelle can live for about 50 years and throughout this time she will delight you with her beauty.

Anabel tree hydrangea care and planting secrets

Do you want to change the color of the inflorescences of an ornamental shrub yourself? Planting anabel tree hydrangea gives you plenty of room to experiment. If you plant a few bushes near the house, in the summer they will be covered with lush white caps of flowers. You can keep this beauty in its original form, or you can water the plants with special preparations so that the clusters acquire the most varied colors. Experienced growers can force the same bush to release inflorescences of different colors. In the northern regions, perennials often cannot stand harsh winters; they have to be insulated or dug up and moved indoors. Hydrangea is not afraid of frost, so it is ideal for the design of summer cottages in cold latitudes, and caring for it is not at all difficult.

The beauty of a short bush

The tree-like "anabel" hydrangea does not reach a great height, the bush stretches only up to one and a half meters, but it grows up to 3 m wide. In spring, the plant is covered with bright leaves the size of a palm, then it releases clusters of buds. Small flowers adhere tightly to each other and form snow-white balls up to 30 cm in diameter. In early spring, the bush adorns the area with bright greenery, and from July to autumn - with lush inflorescences. Proper planting and maintenance makes the bunches so heavy that the branches tilt to the ground.

Got a new suburban area? Take your time to make a wooden fence, you can plant a tree-like "anabel" hydrangea around the perimeter. The bushes grow very quickly, caring for them will not take much time, and soon your territory will be surrounded by a decorative hedge. The bushes planted along the beds will protect the planting from the wind, in winter they will hold the snow and prevent the soil from freezing.

It will be necessary to plant a hydrangea tree-like "anabel" only once: it is a long-liver. Proper care will help the bushes decorate the site for almost half a century, and your grandchildren will already be replacing them with new ones. Be careful when choosing a place: these plants do not tolerate transplanting well.

Propagation of hydrangea

If you want to get planting material yourself, use one of the following methods:

• dividing the bush;
• cuttings;
• growing from seeds.

The latter method is rarely used. Hydrangea seeds are very small, they need to be sown in acidic soil, and sprinkled with sand on top. In the fall, the sprouts are planted in a permanent place and in the first winter they are closed from frost.

You can divide the bush in spring or autumn. Cut off a part of the plant with a shovel so that there are enough shoots on both the main specimen and the separated part, and transplant to a new place. It is best to take cuttings for rooting during the flowering of the bush. If you treat the slices with a root growth stimulant, the shoots will take root in 3 weeks.

Planting hydrangeas outdoors

Hydrangea tree-like "Anabel" grows well on acidic soils. For a lush and vibrant bloom, plant the bushes in light shade from the crown of tall trees. It is advisable to protect the plantings from drafts. The plant does not tolerate wetlands; in the lowlands, make good drainage.

The root system of shrubs is located in the upper soil layer. At a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other, dig holes 40 cm deep and in diameter. Prepare food for the roots for the first time.

Take in equal proportions:

• black soil;
• garden land;
• sand;
• peat.

Add complex fertilizers to the mixture and pour half a bucket of the composition into each well. Such preparation will facilitate the subsequent care of the plantings.

Advice

Never add ash, chalk, lime or other substances with an alkaline reaction under this hydrangea tree. On neutral and alkaline soils, water the bushes with acidified water.

The bushes take root best if they are planted in May or September. In the spring, the seedlings themselves will tell you when it's time for them to go to the ground: the buds should already appear, but not yet bloom. Spill each well well, wait for excess moisture to be absorbed into the ground. Take a seedling, spread the roots so that they are evenly distributed over the bottom of the hole, and cover with soil. Make sure that the root collar is not underground. Mulch circles near bushes with sawdust or fallen leaves of last year. Peat is considered the best material for mulch; it increases the acidity of the soil.

Plant care

Worst of all, hydrangea "Anabel" tolerates drought, the main care is reduced to watering. Keep the soil moist at all times and water abundantly. While the bush is still small, it must be protected from pests. Water the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, spray with insecticides. Hydrangea is resistant to disease, but for prevention it can be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid. Hot sunrays and strong winds are dangerous to young plants, protect them from adverse influences until they get stronger.

The bush needs nutrients especially in the spring after wintering, when it begins to actively grow and release foliage, and during the formation of buds. Apply complex fertilizers, manure, compost. During flowering, do not overfeed the plants, excessive care will lead to the fact that the petals will acquire a greenish tint. When choosing fertilizers, see that the composition includes magnesium and iron, these trace elements are necessary for tree hydrangea.

Advice

If, in a severe cold, some hydrangea shoots freeze, do not remove them. During the warm season, they will recover, and next year they will be covered with lush inflorescences.

Until the age of two, it is better not to let the "Anabel" bloom, all the strength and nutrients should be spent on the development of a strong bush. Cut off the resulting buds, you will still have time to enjoy the beauty of the snow-white inflorescences. Adult plants that are already 3 years old need to be rejuvenated every spring. Leave about a dozen of the strongest shoots and shorten them by a third. Cut out the excess processes. In the fall, remove all dead buds and shoots that have not released buds.

Changing the color of the petals

There are different reviews about the results of experiments on changing the color of flowers of hydrangea tree-like "anabel". For some growers, everything happens quickly and easily, while others struggle for years, but they do not succeed. There is nothing surprising in this: a plant is a living organism, each specimen has its own characteristics. Try it, you might be lucky. Do not experiment on young, fragile bushes, they may not survive such stress.

If you want to get a blue tint of the petals, increase the acidity of the soil and add aluminum preparations under the bush. Usually, there is enough of this element in the ground, but in a neutral and alkaline environment it is found in insoluble compounds. Water the soil with acidic compounds, make sure that the pH is no higher than 5.5. Do not feed the hydrangea with phosphorus fertilizers, they can interfere with the transition of aluminum compounds into a soluble form. Do not expect the color change to happen quickly, you will have to wait several years.

To obtain a pink shade of the petals, bring the acidity of the soil closer to neutral reaction. Do not overdo it with the introduction of chalk and lime, from their excess, the hydrangea tree-like "anabel" can die, no care will save.Feed your plants with fertilizers that are high in nitrogen and phosphorus but low in potassium. If you want to change the color several times, first achieve a pink tint, and when you get tired of this tone, change it to blue. Reversing the color change is much more difficult.

Conclusion

Hydrangea can be planted in any climatic zone. These plants perfectly tolerate severe frosts, almost never get sick and are not affected by pests. Caring for the Anabel tree hydrangea is not difficult at all. Only drought is terrible for the bushes, but if you install a drip irrigation system, this problem will be solved.

Experimental lovers can try to change the color of the petals. Note that these tests use chemicals. Avoid treating plants that are near vegetable beds. Remember that after the destruction of the bush, edible crops cannot be planted in this place, and other ornamental plants may not take root in the poisoned soil, despite excellent care. If you nevertheless decided to get an unusual shade - we wish you success!

The beauty of the backyard is achieved by careful planning of the landscape design and the selection of flowers and ornamental plants that are in harmony with each other. One of the best options with a gorgeous flowering is the Anabel hydrangea, planting and caring for which, despite its visual appeal, is not difficult. The hydrangea variety Anabel (syn. Annabelle, Annabelle) is an unpretentious variety that actively grows and tolerates winter well in the open field both in the temperate climatic zone, including in the Moscow region, and in the northern regions of the Russian Federation.

Hydrangea Annabel belongs to the tree type, in the garden it reaches 1.5 m in height. Has a lush crown, twice the height. Shoots are strong, covered with pointed dark green leaves that fall in autumn. The flowers are collected in ball-shaped umbrellas, blooming by July, the decorative period ends in mid-autumn. Almost all the shoots of the bush at the ends are covered with inflorescences that can reach 30 cm in circumference.

The standard color of Anabel hydrangea is white, but you can achieve a change in shade to blue, purple or pink when changing the mineral composition of the soil. Let's see how to achieve this effect:

1. The blue color is achieved due to aluminum compounds in the soil and is characteristic of an acidic environment with a pH below 5.5. Naturally, you can enrich the habitat of the bush with aluminum by adding peat or ground sulfur, but this should be done before planting the plant. If the bush is already sitting in the ground in a permanent place, watering with aluminum sulfate is recommended during the entire flowering of the hydrangea (15 g per 1 liter of water). A light heavenly shade can be the result of mulching the hydrangea with coniferous bark or peat.
2. Pink color is acquired by hydrangeas, which grow in soil with an alkaline medium with a pH level above 6. The alkali content should not exceed 6.5, since such an environment leads to iron deficiency and chlorosis. For artificial alkalization of the soil, you can use dolomite flour and lime. You can also apply mineral fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, the content of phosphorus is mandatory, which neutralizes the effect of aluminum; the potassium percentage should be low.

On the basis of the hydrangea of ​​the tree variety Anabel, the varieties Pink Anabel and Strong (Inkredibol) were bred, planting which in open ground and caring for bushes is carried out according to a similar scheme. Unlike garden hydrangea, Anabel is resistant to adverse weather conditions and not too demanding on the soil.

Shrub planting rules

The most common variety of hydrangea is a long-liver: it lives and blooms without transplanting for about 50 years, so a permanent planting site for Annabelle is of particular importance.It is important to remember a few taboos that lead the bush to exhaustion and disease:

• hydrangea loves light, but during the hours of the scorching sun, the hydrangea should be in partial shade;
• drafts are the enemy of hydrangea, choose a quiet place;
• the plant does not tolerate swampy areas; on heavy soils, additional drainage will be required;
• PH indicator should not exceed 6.5;
• the soil in the zone of the root system should always be slightly moistened.

When all the nuances are taken into account, the site is selected in accordance with the requirements, you should start preparing a place for a hydrangea and directly planting a plant. The main stages of planting are as follows:

1. A few days before planting, dig a hole with sides 50 x 50 cm, the depth varies from 40 to 60 cm - adjust to the root system of the seedling.
2. Moisten the resulting depression with 2-3 buckets of water.
3. The seedling is soaked for 2-3 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate to destroy pests in the rhizomes.
4. Mix fertile soil, humus or rotted leaves, river sand and peat to create a substrate for hydrangeas. Here you can add a little nitrogen fertilizer (urea) and superphosphate.
5. A pile of the resulting soil should be poured at the bottom of the hole, a seedling should be placed in the center, and the roots should be distributed. The shrub should be covered carefully, without burying the root collar - it should remain at the surface level. Tamp the earth around the seedling and water it well so that moisture nourishes the roots, put a layer of mulch from needles, peat, bark or sawdust on top.

Prompt work with the seedling and such preparation will facilitate the subsequent care of the Anabel hydrangea.

Watering hydrangeas and caring for the bush

Having chosen Anabel hydrangea as a decoration for the yard, planting and further caring for the shrub will not burden you with difficulties - the variety is unpretentious and practically does not get sick. After rooting, the young plant should be freed from the nascent inflorescences so that the bush develops intensively into growth. You should endure only 2-3 years, until the hydrangea forms into a full-fledged bush.

Watering should be sufficient, but not excessive: in warm weather, once a week is enough. In drought and extreme heat, watering should be increased up to once every 3-4 days. When doing this, do not forget to loosen the soil in order to prevent the appearance of crusts and to provide air access to the roots. For the first time, make it a rule to protect the young bush from the midday rays of the sun, for which you can use an artificial canopy made of translucent material.

Remember that the root system of the shrubs is shallow, the growth under the ground extends in breadth. Therefore, the Anabel hydrangea in the open field is planted at such a distance from other plants that their roots do not intertwine, competing for nutrients and moisture. To provide hydrangea with trace elements, drugs with a complex composition or a solution of fresh mullein are used. Top dressing is carried out in the spring, before flowering and in autumn, during the budding phase, fertilizers are not applied.

The most important step in the correct formation of the bush is pruning the hydrangea. The rules for shortening the branches of the hydrangea tree are as follows:

1. Shoots are pruned annually after foliage is shed or before sap flow begins in early spring. Plants of the first year of life do not undergo the procedure, do not touch the hydrangea during the period of bud formation.
2. It is necessary to shorten the stems by 12-15 cm so that 3-5 pairs of buds remain.
3. Before wintering, dried flowers and dry branches are removed, this is called sanitary pruning.
4. In early spring, mature bushes rejuvenate by cutting off all branches, except for a dozen young shoots. Selected shoots are shortened by 1/3.

Timely pruning is needed to get a beautiful regular bush shape. But if you did not manage to carry out the manipulations in time, do not touch the bush until the next season, otherwise the plant may die.

Wintering hydrangea Anabel

The temperate climate is well tolerated by an adult plant of this variety. Shelter is required in such cases:

• if the hydrangea is still young, frost can destroy the shoots and the root system;
• under severe winter conditions, it is advisable to hide the adult hydrangea Anabel.

Preparation for the winter period begins with covering the soil in the root area with sawdust, leaves, peat will be the best material. To cover the shrub, bend the branches to the ground so that they are not injured, you can secure them with wire brackets. Put spruce branches on top of the bush, sprinkle with peat again and cover with agrofibre. The last layer will be oilcloth, which should be reinforced at the edges with bricks or other heavy objects.

Hydrangea Anabel over 5 years can withstand frosts down to -40 ° C, but it is still recommended to insulate the root system in case a small layer of snow falls.

Reproduction of tree hydrangea

The main method for obtaining a full-fledged seedling is cuttings. To obtain planting material, at the beginning of autumn, an annual shoot is cut off and cut into pieces with 2 pairs of buds and leaves. It is better to take shoots on which there were no inflorescences. Each cutting is placed in a solution with a root growth stimulator for 2-3 hours, then planted in pots or a greenhouse with fertile soil for hydrangeas. Before planting, they get rid of the lower pair of leaves, the upper one is shortened by half.

Cuttings grow better with a greenhouse effect, for which the pots are covered with cut bottles or jars. It takes about a month for rooting, then you can move the seedlings into open ground. For the winter period, you will have to either cover them or plant them back in pots until spring.

The second method is reproduction by layering, which will require a one-year shoot. A shallow incision is made across the shoot. The branch should be dug in and fixed so that the incision is at the bottom: from here the roots are formed. The procedure is done in September, the seedling is separated from the mother bush after a year. Care for the layering consists in the timely watering and loosening of the soil.

Hydrangea seedlings can also be obtained from seeds, but this is a complex and time-consuming process, which is why experienced gardeners rarely use this propagation method.

Hydrangea Anabel is not so popular for nothing: the variety feels good in different parts of the world. And if you choose the right place for planting and comply with the basic care requirements, you will receive a true beauty on your site.