Large-leaved hydrangea planting and care in the open field

A flowering plant such as hydrangea (Hydrangea) is directly related to the hydrangea family. According to various sources, this genus unites 30–80 species of hydrangeas. Such plants are represented by compact trees, lianas and shrubs. Most of the hydrangea species grows in South, as well as East Asia (China, Japan), this plant can also be found in North America and the Far East. Such a plant was named after the princess of the Holy Roman Empire. Systematic scientists gave the plant the Latin name Hydrangea, which means "a vessel with water". The fact is that it is very hygrophilous. In Japan, this plant is called "adzisai", which means "flower - purple sun". Despite the large number of species, only garden hydrangea, or large-leaved, having a small size, are grown at home. Other species and varieties are grown exclusively in gardens.

Features of hydrangea

In the wild, hydrangea is represented by three-meter shrubs, not very large trees, as well as lianas, which can climb up tree trunks to a height of thirty meters. Also, such hydrangeas can be deciduous or evergreen (depending on the species). In the middle latitudes, deciduous species are most preferred. Most often, such a plant has opposite leaves of a large size, they have an oval shape with a pointed tip at the top. The edge of the leaf blades is most often serrated, and venation is clearly visible on their surface. Hydrangea begins to bloom in the spring, and ends only after the onset of frost in the fall. Flowers are collected in large inflorescences, which can have a corymbose, spherical or paniculate shape. The inflorescences include 2 types of flowers. Some of them are small fertile (fertile), located, as a rule, in the middle of the inflorescence, while others are large sterile (sterile), which are located along the edge of the inflorescences. There are species with only one fertile flowers. Most hydrangeas have white flowers.However, there are species, for example, large-leaved or large-leaved hydrangea, which can have flowers of various colors: cream, white, blue, pink, red and lilac. At the same time, it is interesting that the pH of the soil affects the color of the flower. So, for example, if the substrate is neutral, then the flowers will be cream or beige, if alkaline, then pink or lilac, and on sour - blue, because the soil contains aluminum that is easily absorbed by hydrangea. The fruit of this flower is a box with 2–5 chambers containing small seeds. It happens that a flower belonging to a close genus schizophragmatic is mistakenly called a hydrangea, but you should know that a petiolate hydrangea is nothing more than a schizophragma.

Growing hydrangea

How to properly grow hydrangea in the garden? Here are the basic rules:

1. Large-leaved hydrangea can have a different color of flowers. Moreover, their color does not depend on the variety, but on the pH of the soil. So, in acidic soil, the flowers are blue and blue, in neutral soil they are white and beige, and in alkaline soil they are lilac or pink. In order for the bush to be spectacular and colorful, experienced gardeners are advised to change the acidity separately for each flower.
2. This flower is very fond of moisture, in this regard, it must be watered not only abundantly, but also on time.
3. Direct rays of the sun are required. But it should be borne in mind that the flowers can fade under the influence of the scorching rays of the midday sun. In this regard, you need to choose a landing site where there is little shade at noon.
4. Also, the plant must be cut off in time.
5. You cannot apply a lot of organic fertilizers, because flowers may not appear on the overgrown bushes.
6. Hydrangea must be covered well for wintering, even those species that are considered frost-resistant. If any of the bushes freezes, then in most cases it will be able to fully recover during the period of intensive growth.
7. Very resistant to diseases and pests.

Planting hydrangeas

Growing from seeds

Seeds are usually very easy to propagate for species of hydrangea. Also, this breeding method is often used by breeders in their work. It is quite easy to grow such a flower from a seed, but it is a time-consuming method. You need to sow seeds in the autumn. To do this, you need to fill the container with a loose soil mixture rich in nutrients, which can be prepared by combining peat and leaf soil with river sand in a ratio of 2: 4: 1. Seeds sown on the surface of the substrate should be sprinkled with a thin layer of soil, and then watered with a spray bottle. Then the container must be covered from above with a transparent film or glass, while the shelter must be removed several times at knocks in order for the soil to be aired. It should also be borne in mind that the soil should be slightly moist all the time. The optimum temperature is from 14 to 20 degrees. After the first seedlings appear, the shelter must be removed permanently. The pick must be done 2 times. The first time in the developmental stage of the cotyledons, and the second - in the first month of spring. At the same time, when diving a plant for the second time, you need to take small pots for each of them (diameter 7 centimeters). After you transplant young plants a second time, you need to start hardening them. To do this, flowers are taken out into the street in the summer and a place is chosen for them, which is protected from direct sunlight, gusts of wind, drafts and precipitation. In the evening, the hydrangeas are returned to the room. For 2 years, the hydrangea must be grown indoors, and in the winter it is kept in a fairly cool and lighted room, and in the summer it is transferred to the street. In this case, it is imperative to cut off all the buds, since they will take a lot of energy from a still young plant.

Hydrangea seedlings

After 2 years, at the very beginning of the spring period (in areas with a cold climate - in the autumn), the grown flowers are transplanted into open soil, immediately to a permanent place. When choosing a suitable place, do not forget that all species are photophilous and need direct sunlight. However, there are several species (groundcover, Sargent, rough and tree-like) that thrive in partial shade. The soil should be loose, enriched with organic matter, neutral or slightly acidic. Alkaline soil can be acidified by taking high-moor peat or Acid Plus acidifier. It is not recommended to plant trees or shrubs with a superficial root system next to these flowers, since after some time these plants will fight with each other for water and nutrients.

The first step is to dig a hole, while its size should be 2 times the volume of the root system of the seedling together with the pulled out lump of earth. Then organic and mineral fertilizers, as well as peat, must be added to the hole, which should be mixed with the ground. Then the seedling taken out together with a lump of earth must be thoroughly shaken off from the soil and the roots should be aligned. Then it is lowered into a hole, which is covered with a mixture of compost and soil. In this case, it is necessary for the root system to rise very slightly above the soil surface. Then the soil should be compacted, water the bush and fill the area with mulch (bark or needles).

Outdoor Hydrangea Care

Basic rules of care

It is not difficult to care for such a plant grown outdoors, but it must be done correctly. Proper watering is of great importance for the normal development of hydrangea. So, in hot weather it needs to be watered 2 times in 7 days, while 3-5 ten-liter buckets of lukewarm and always settled water should be poured onto 1 adult bush. In the event that there is mulch in the form of peat on the site, then watering can be reduced.

In order for the roots to receive more oxygen, it is necessary to loosen the soil surface around the plant several times a season to a depth of about 5 centimeters. You also need to promptly cut off those stems that have already faded.

Fertilizing hydrangea

In order to achieve the most abundant flowering, you need to feed such a flower at least 2 times a year. This must be done before the plant begins to bloom and after it has faded. At the very beginning of the spring period, a urea solution (2 g per 1 liter of water) is used to feed hydrangeas. In this case, 1 bush will need 30 liters of this solution. When the plant has faded, a complex mineral fertilizer should be used to feed it. During the summer period, experts advise using slurry as top dressing. However, do not overdo it, because overfed hydrangeas have very large inflorescences that can break rather fragile branches. To avoid this, you can tie up a bush.

Pruning hydrangea

Should be cut off those bushes that are older than 3-4 years. Species blooming on the stems of the current year should be cut off at the very beginning of the spring period, before the buds begin to open, as well as before the start of sap flow, otherwise the plant may drain out of juice, which will lead to its death. However, after pruning done very early, cuttings should not be rooted. In this regard, pruning should be done at a time when the buds begin to look alive and swell a little. The tree hydrangea is the very first to wake up, so it must be cut off first. Very long stems are cut off at a height of 3-4 buds. After that, the resulting twig can be divided into cuttings. Panicle hydrangea requires more careful pruning. So, last year's stems must be shortened by 1/3 part, however, viable cuttings are obtained from such segments. Large-leaved hydrangea does not need to be heavily pruned.So, in spring, only every 4th stem is cut off, especially if it grows inside the bush. And also it is necessary to remove dried and damaged branches.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings

After pruning the hydrangea, you will have a large number of stems that can be cut into cuttings. Each of the cuttings should have 2 nodes. In this case, the cut above the node located at the top should be straight, and under the one below it should be oblique. In this case, 2-3 centimeters should be retreated from the knot, and then a cut should be made. Fill the greenhouse container with a mixture of peat and sand and stick the stalk to a depth of 3 centimeters, while watering it well. After that, cover the greenhouse from above with a plastic wrap "house". The cuttings must be systematically moistened with a spray bottle so that the soil is always slightly moist. After complete rooting, the cuttings should be planted in open soil in a permanent place. They should have time to get stronger before winter.

Hydrangea after flowering

A faded plant must be prepared for wintering. Seedlings that are grown in containers must be moved indoors. For flowers growing in open ground, you need to cut off wilted flowers, because when wet from rain and snow, they will become very heavy and can break branches. And it will also be necessary to spud the base of the bushes high enough, cover the soil surface around them with a layer of mulch, which will help protect the root system from freezing. The most frost-resistant species are ground cover and paniculate. The stems of such plants are completely lignified before the onset of the autumn period, which helps them to more easily endure frosts, even if they are not covered (when grown in areas with mild winters). Also, you can not cover the tree hydrangea for the winter.

Hydrangea wintering

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

A rather warm and snowy winter period allows even species that love warmth (serrated and large-leaved hydrangea) to winter without shelter. However, it should be borne in mind that winter will be frosty or warm, no one knows exactly how and how much snow will fall. It is better to play it safe and, despite the fact that forecasters promise a warm winter, prepare the plants for wintering properly. Because if the forecast of weather forecasters is incorrect, then plants unprepared for wintering may die.

What is the best time to cover this flower and how to do it? As a rule, this procedure is carried out in October, after the first frosts have passed. If the bushes are young, then they should be covered to the top with dry soil. The grown bushes must be pressed to the soil surface and covered with roofing material or lutrasil. They must be fixed with bricks, since such a shelter can be blown away by the wind. More mature bushes will require more energy. The bush must be carefully tied and then covered with spunbond or lutrasil. After that, a metal mesh frame should be created around the bush, which should have a cylindrical shape. In this case, the walls of the structure should be 20-25 centimeters away from the bush, and they should also rise 10 centimeters above it. Empty space in the structure should be filled with dry leaves. In spring (in April) the net with leaves can be removed, but the spunbond is removed only after the threat of frost has passed.

Hydrangea in winter

You yourself can decide whether to cover these flowers for you or not. The options above are ideal for a frosty winter with poor snow cover. In the event that in the place where you live a very mild winter, then covering the hydrangea can be quite easy. And if you have winter-hardy species, then they can not be covered at all. However, if the winters where you live are often frosty, then it is better to take care of a shelter for the hydrangea in the autumn, and then you will definitely be sure that it can survive even severe frosts.

Types of hydrangea photos and names

If you are thinking about decorating your garden with hydrangea, then first of all you should pay attention to the features of the various types of this plant. Then you can choose exactly the types that will best suit your garden. It is also important to know how each species needs to be looked after. For example, a tree-like or large-leaved hydrangea must be prepared for wintering and cut in a slightly different way than panicle hydrangea. If you know a lot about the rules for caring for such plants, then caring for them will not be difficult.

Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens)

This variety is very popular among gardeners living in mid-latitudes. This plant is presented in the form of shrubs. Its height can vary from 100 to 300 centimeters. Inflorescences grow on the tops of annual stems. When the flowers are just beginning to open, they have a light green color, after their full disclosure, they change their color to cream or white. The most popular varieties are: "Invizible Spirit" - flowers have a pink color; "Sterilis" - inflorescences are white, while this plant blooms very profusely; "Annabelle" and "Grandiflora" - have very large inflorescences, painted in a pure white color (note that panicle hydrangea has varieties with exactly the same names).

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)

Under natural conditions, such a plant has the shape of a tree or a shrub, the height of which can vary from 2 to 5 m. This species is considered one of the most popular among gardeners. Without a transplant in the same place, this type of hydrangea is able to grow and develop normally for more than 40 years. The stems of this plant are lignified in a relatively short time, which is why it is considered winter-hardy. The inflorescences grow in the upper parts of the stems of this year, while the flowering is distinguished by its abundance. However, the buds formed in the last days of June open only in August or September. The inflorescences of this type of flowers have a pyramidal shape. When only the flowers begin to open, they have a pale green color, and after full disclosure, they turn white. At the end of the summer period, they turn light pink, and then brick. When the flowering period begins to end, the flowers turn light green again. The most popular varieties are Grandiflora, Quishu, Vanilla Freise and Tardiva.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Or garden - it is often cultivated in the garden. However, individual varieties can be grown in containers indoors or on the terrace. Dense leaves have a rich green color. This year's stems are herbaceous, which is why the bush is not very cold-resistant. It is believed that inflorescences appear on the stems of last year, since the buds for their growth are laid in the autumn, and they begin to grow in the spring. As a rule, the inflorescences have a viburnum-shaped, umbellate shape, it is also called hemispherical or Japanese. The color of the flowers depends on the pH of the soil. Recently appeared interesting varieties: "Endless Summer" - in acidic soil - blue color, in neutral - lilac; Renata Steinger - blue; "Expression" and "Romance" - have double flowers.

Hydrangea oakleaf (Hydrangea quercifolia)

It has low frost resistance and needs good insulation for the winter. It blooms very luxuriantly and has unusually attractive leaves. It has a height of about 2 m. The length of paniculate inflorescences is from 10 to 30 centimeters. Flowering begins in June – July, while the flowers are white at the beginning, and then turn purple.

Ground cover hydrangea (Hydrangea heteromalla)

Or hydrangea with different pubescence - a winter-hardy species. Under natural conditions, it can reach a height of 200-300 centimeters. Often used to form a standard form.The length of the dark green leaves is about 20 centimeters. Their front side is smooth, and the seamy side has pubescence. Loose corymbose inflorescences are initially white, and then turn pink at the end of flowering. Flowering begins in the last days of June or the first days of July. The most popular ground cover variety Bretschneider, which blooms profusely with rather large inflorescences of a milky white color.

Also, gardeners grow hydrangeas: ash, serrate, radiant, rough, Sargent. They also grow a climbing type of petiolate hydrangea, but as mentioned above, this is not a hydrangea.

author Arkatov I.S., photo by the author and Tim Bebel

Hydrangeas of different types are becoming more and more accessible to Russian plant lovers every year. In the species assortment of hydrangeas, large-leaved hydrangea attracts special attention of gardeners. It is presented on the modern market with many new varieties with a variety of inflorescence colors.

In recent years, there has been an abundance of materials on growing large-leaved hydrangea, but gardeners continue to ask me many questions about planting hydrangea seedlings and caring for the plant. Therefore, in this separate article, I want to draw the attention of readers of the Gardenia website. ru on the main points of agricultural technology of hydrangeas.

Planting seedlings of large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangeas should be planted in such a place in the garden so that their bushes are illuminated by the sun only in the morning and in the evening (at least 6 hours a day).
In the direct midday sun, the leaves and inflorescences of the large-leaved hydrangea droop. With a drop in temperature in the evening and with sufficient soil moisture, the foliage of hydrangeas usually restores turgor, but the flowers may no longer recover ...

When planting a potted hydrangea in the garden, you need to do the following.

1. It is desirable that the young roots of the hydrangea seedling germinate as quickly as possible in the garden soil. Therefore, it is necessary to fill the planting hole with a nutritious and loose organic mixture composed of peat, humus, coniferous litter and garden soil. Before planting a seedling, you must decide in advance what color of inflorescences you want to have in the planted hydrangea. Later, after planting the seedlings, it can be difficult to change the acidity of the soil under the hydrangea.
To obtain pink and red inflorescences in a large-leaved hydrangea: the PH of the earthen mixture should be about 6.0-6.2 (if more than 6.4, the hydrangea may begin chlorosis due to a lack of iron in an accessible form).
To obtain blue, blue and purple inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangea: the PH of the earthen mixture should be about 5.2-5.5. Aluminum sulfate should be added to the soil. Water the plants with soft water with a pH not higher than 5.6.
It must be remembered that red and pink large-leaved hydrangeas in acidic soil, respectively, will have dark pink and pink-lilac flowers; they may not achieve the pure red and pure pink color of their varieties.

In the photo: red hydrangea "Red Sensation" in the garden; pink hydrangea "Early Sensation"

Hot weather also does not favor the development of red color in hydrangea inflorescences. Large-leaved hydrangea with white flowers does not change the color of the inflorescences (its flowers can turn pink only in autumn).

2. If your garden has clay soil, then in order to avoid stagnation of water near the roots of the hydrangea, make drainage at the bottom of the planting pit.

3. Before planting the hydrangea, very carefully, without injuring the young roots, straighten as many roots as possible from the seedling, curled around a clod of earth (after soaking it in a bucket of water).

4. When planting hydrangeas, carefully remove the old soil (as much as possible) from the top of the seedling pot to the young roots, replacing it with a prepared earthy mixture.

Watering large-leaved hydrangea

When watering a garden hydrangea, it must be remembered that it is a very moisture-loving plant.
It is necessary to constantly keep the soil under the hydrangea and around the bush moist.This is facilitated by mulching the earth (with coniferous litter or bark).

It is necessary to spill the soil so that not only the soil around the hydrangea is moist, but also the clod of earth in which the hydrangea grew in a pot is saturated with water - where, after planting, its main root system is still located. Otherwise, this clod of earth (its composition differs from the planting mixture you have prepared) will remain dry in the planting pit!

Whenever possible, use drip irrigation to care for your hydrangeas in your garden.

Pruning large-leaved hydrangea

For the first three years, the newly planted hydrangea is not pruned, except for pruning dried branches. Do not expect a lush flowering from a young plant until the bush takes root well.

Three years after planting the seedlings, ordinary (not remontant) large-leaved hydrangeas are pruned in Russia in the spring (unlike the Tim Bebel method). At the same time, the old hydrangea inflorescences left for the winter are cut off to the first living bud. Do sanitary pruning of dried branches.

If, in the spring, you cut the last year's branch from the remontant hydrangea, depriving it of the upper (apical) bud, then a little later, several peduncles are formed from the lateral buds on the same branch in the current season.
This way you can increase the number of inflorescences only in the remontant hydrangea. The same operation with ordinary hydrangea will bring the same result only next year.

Thus, you can determine which hydrangea is growing in your garden - repair or not. Indeed, among the old varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas with lost names, there are remontant ones.

Change in color of inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangeas with pink and red inflorescences can change the original color of their flowers to blue, blue and purple. Although there are varieties of hydrangeas with pink flowers that do not stain blue well.

To change the color of the inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangea, the soil under the seedling must be acidic.
Water the plant with a solution of aluminum sulfate (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water) every week throughout the season.

Such hydrangeas are fed with fertilizers with a low phosphorus content (N: P: K = 25: 5: 30), because Excess phosphorus binds aluminum in the soil, preventing the color of large-leaved hydrangea from changing to blue or purple.

In order for hydrangeas to remain with their original pink or red color of flowers: it is necessary that the pH of the soil is 6.0-6.2. If necessary, alkalize the soil with dolomite flour or ash.
It is necessary to use fertilizers with a high phosphorus content (N: P: K = 10: 40: 10).

In the photo: hydrangea of ​​the Stargazer variety with different colors of inflorescences

The intensity of the color of the inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangeas is associated with the presence of different amounts of delphinidin pigment in different varieties.
When the color of the inflorescences changes, - during the transition from pink to blue, - the hydrangea inflorescences undergo a lilac stage.

All about hydrangea on the site

Why don't flower shops sell hydrangea bouquets? It's just that they are probably so beautiful that it is a pity to cut them off. For garden owners in recent years, there is no shrub more desirable than hydrangea. These are amazing bushes, buried in white, bright pink or blue clouds of inflorescences. And the most attractive, the most delicate, the most refined of them is the large-leaved hydrangea.

What is it like

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrángea macrophýlla) is a shrub from the hydrangea family, the height of which is 1-2 m (indoor forms grow up to 60 cm). Slightly pointed oval leaves are dark green in color. Bright inflorescences of pink, blue, greenish or variegated color in shape can be varied. Bloom from June to October.

A heat-loving shrub with huge flower heads came to Europe from Japan in the 18th century. Until recently, large-leaved hydrangea in our area was presented only as a houseplant.But with the development of agricultural technology, it increasingly began to appear in the open field. True, it requires a serious winter shelter. The flower buds of the garden hydrangea are at the tops of last year's shoots. Therefore, it is very important to preserve the branches completely so that they do not die from frost. Not so long ago, remontant varieties were bred by Dutch breeders. Such hydrangeas begin to bloom on the tops of last year's branches, and continue to bloom on the shoots of the current year. Thanks to this, they will be able to please us with bright colors even after a little freezing.

Large-leaved hydrangea varieties

• Blue Heaven (variety series Forever & Ever) - shrub 0.9-1.2 m high, crown 60-90 cm in diameter.It blooms from July to early September. Spherical inflorescences up to 30 cm in diameter. The color of the flowers can be pink, lilac or blue (the acidity of the soil affects).
• Amethyst (variety series Magical) - bush height 1-1.2 m, crown with a diameter of 80-100 cm. Chameleon: flowers in the inflorescence are greenish at first, but then change color. Good for cutting.
• Blushing Bride (variety series Endless Summer) - the height and width of the bush is about 1.5 m. It blooms from June to October. The buds of this variety bloom into semi-double sterile white flowers that gradually turn pink. Because of this peculiarity, this variety is jokingly called "The Blushed Bride". Smooth and strong twigs make this plant suitable for cutting.

Mention should be made of the "magical properties" of large-leaved hydrangea - the ability to change color depending on the composition of the soil. With a slightly alkaline reaction of the soil, they turn pink; in an acidic environment, their color changes to blue or blue.

We settle as a guest

If you decide to plant a large-leaved hydrangea on your site, then it should be noted that planting and caring for this plant has some peculiarities. We'll look at them.

Spring is a good time to plant hydrangeas, but you can also plant them in autumn until mid-September.
First, choose a place. The best for a large-leaved hydrangea would be an area with light partial shade and protected from the wind. It is desirable that the sun hits the bush in the morning and evening hours (but not less than 6 hours).

Now a few words about the "neighbors". Do not plant a moisture-loving hydrangea under trees that strongly absorb moisture. Also, its root system does not like damage, so perennials that do not need frequent transplants should be placed nearby.

When the location is selected, you need to prepare the planting pit. Its size should be suitable for a particular plant. Since the seedling will soon turn into a large beautiful bush, the hole should be prepared at least 50 × 50 cm in size and about 50 cm deep.Fill it with a loose soil mixture consisting of light earth, high peat, fallen needles and humus (2: 2: 1: 1). If the soil on the site is clay, then in order to avoid stagnant water, drainage must be placed at the bottom of the pit. A very important point - hydrangeas should grow in acidic soil, alkalization of the soil is destructive for them.

It is advisable to soak the roots in a bucket of water before planting. Then carefully remove most of the old soil and straighten the roots. Place the seedling in the hole and sprinkle the roots with the prepared soil mixture. It is advisable to deepen the root collar a little (but not completely), there are the lower buds that will give young shoots.

After planting, it is necessary to thoroughly water the seedling. It is important that the soil around the plant is well saturated with moisture. Then the ground under the bushes must be mulched with peat, and sawdust and fallen needles must be poured over the mulch. This will help maintain soil moisture and maintain an acidic reaction.

We multiply

Large-leaved hydrangea can be propagated by dividing the bush, seeds, layering and cuttings. Let's consider two of the simplest ways.

The easiest and safest way to do this is by dividing the bush.To do this, we prepare holes for planting, then we dig out a bush and divide it into parts, so that each of them will have growth buds that give young shoots. Cut the roots a little before planting, and shorten the shoots to 3-5 buds. Next, we plant each part as a new bush. If we divide the bush in the spring, then in the fall the new hydrangea bushes will already take root.

It is relatively easy to do this by layering in May. To do this, you need to bend young, flexible branches from the mother plant and secure with a wire clip in a hole, the depth of which is about 15 cm.At the point of contact with the ground, it is advisable to break off the leaves, then make an oblique incision 2-3 cm long on the lower side of the branch, inserting into it a match or a sliver. Instead of making such an incision, you can simply scrape off the bark slightly. The fact is that tissue damage stimulates the formation of roots in this place. Then sprinkle with earth mixture (as for the usual planting of hydrangeas). Tie the tops of the shoots above the ground to a peg in an upright position. We water the cuttings abundantly and in the future we carefully monitor that the ground is always moist. Roots should appear by autumn. Now the new plant needs to be cut off from the mother. But it will be possible to plant it only in the spring. Hydrangea flowers can please us next year.

We take care and care

Any hydrangea needs regular watering, it's not for nothing that its name is translated from ancient Greek as "a vessel with water." The soil under the bush should always be moist. For this, it is advisable to constantly maintain a layer of mulch around the bush. Abundant watering in the fall is especially important, this will help the hydrangea to winter safely.

Hydrangeas, like any other plant, require feeding for good growth and development. It is imperative to apply fertilizers in the spring during the leafing period, before budding and in early autumn before the end of flowering. Feeding is also carried out for planting a new plant. In order to avoid unpleasant surprises, it is better to use complex mineral fertilizers intended for the care of hydrangeas. You can also apply humus and liquid manure in small quantities. Do not fertilize hydrangea with ash, this can lead to alkalization of the soil.

To form the crown of a large-leaved hydrangea, like any other shrub, pruning is necessary. But pruning this plant has its own specific characteristics. Since the flower-bearing buds are located at the top of the one-year shoot, it is possible to remove all the flower stalks with the wrong actions.

The main subtleties of pruning The first year

Immediately after spring planting, the growths must be shortened by one or two strong buds and the weak shoots must be cut out. Among the strong growths and side branches that have grown over the summer, only those growing inside the bush and the weakest are cut off.

Second year

When flowering ends, strong branches grow at the bottom of the bush, which must be shortened to the lower new strong growths.

Third year and beyond

After the end of flowering, all faded branches are cut to the lower strong growths, weak ones are removed. A very dense bush must be thinned out by removing some of the old branches.

Given the peculiarity of large-leaved hydrangeas to bloom on the shoots of last year, at the end of July it is imperative to cut off the old inflorescences along with four leaves. Indeed, in August, the buds of the next year are laid, and if you are late with pruning the bush or carry it out too radically, then next year it will not bloom.

If, unfortunately, the aboveground part of the hydrangea is frozen, there is no need to immediately despair. Cut off all branches shortly, then the active growth of young branches from the lower buds will begin.

We winter comfortably

Large-leaved hydrangea needs preparation for winter, because, due to the peculiarities of laying flower buds, it is not the most winter-hardy species. She must be covered before frost.

For the winter, it is necessary to cover the large-leaved hydrangea at the very beginning of November, when serious frosts are already approaching.
There are two main types of winter shelter.

First. We carefully cover the bottom of the bush with peat (we make a good slide), lay dry leaves, sawdust, spruce branches around. Having bent the branches along the perimeter to the ground, we nail them with wire brackets. Cover the top with agrofibre and sprinkle with compost soil. To protect the shelter from precipitation, cover it with a sheet of slate or roofing material.

Second. If the branches are relatively tall and tough, it is important not to break them. Therefore, we tie them together, wrap them in 2-3 layers with agrofibre, install a wire mesh (frame) around the bush and fill it with needles and dry leaves inside. From above, you need to cover it with something from precipitation (roofing material, film, boards).

It is very important to open the hydrangea gradually in the spring, as one should beware of recurrent frosts.

Pests and diseases

Large-leaved hydrangea is affected by a small number of diseases and pests.

Spider mite

The leaves are striking from the underside, you can see a cobweb there. They first turn yellow and then fall off. The plant should be sprayed with acaricide.

Downy mildew

Oily spots appear on the leaves, which then increase in size and turn yellow. A yellowish bloom appears on the leaves below and on young stems. An urgent need to treat the plant with a mixture of soap, copper sulfate and water (150 g x 15 g x 10 l).

Chlorosis

With this disease, the leaves become very light and the veins darken. This leads to alkalization of the soil, as well as too much humus in the planting pit. To cope with chlorosis, it is urgently necessary to increase the acidity of the soil in any way.

Garden decoration

Large-leaved hydrangea is so beautiful that it can decorate any garden. Huge clouds of inflorescences make it inimitable in a single location on the lawn or at the entrance. A group composition of large-leaved hydrangeas of several varieties with different shapes of flowers, inflorescences and colors will look unusual.

In general compositions, the noble severity of conifers emphasizes the lush brightness and rich flowering of hydrangea. It goes well with other ornamental shrubs - blooming one after another, they can decorate the garden all summer.

The hydrangea looks wonderful surrounded by perennial flowers and ferns. It is only important to choose the color scheme. And the hydrangea curbs and hedges look fantastic! Foam waves of various shades will not leave anyone indifferent.

It may seem that the large-leaved hydrangea is quite demanding to care for. But with some effort, you will be rewarded with a stunningly beautiful plant that will become the jewel and pride of your garden.

Many people want to have a beautiful large-leaved hydrangea in their garden. This spectacular shrub seems to be whimsical in cultivation in vain.

The rules for caring for broadleaf hydrangea are somewhat different from other species. By following certain agronomic techniques, you can avoid the frustration of losing your favorite plant.

What are the technologies for growing hydrangeas and how not to be mistaken with the choice of a variety?

Appearance and features

The homeland of the perennial plant is East Asia: Japan and China. Other names among professionals are hydrangea and macrophile. Hydrangea broadleaf is also called garden hydrangea.

The height of shrub forms ranges from 0.4 to 1.5 meters. Stems are erect, not fruiting. Wide large leaves, inflorescences (15-25 centimeters in diameter) of all kinds of colors - this is the appearance of a hydrangea. Bloom is observed from July to September-October.

The large-leaved beauty gives flowers on the shoots of last year, woody only in spring, this explains the freezing during wintering. Flower buds are laid in the fall and often die in the cold.Old tree stems may also not survive the cold, so it is important to cover the thermophilic plant carefully.

It grows on different soils, changing the color of flowers from white, pink to dark red and blue. To change the color, they resort to various tricks: they are watered with special dyes, alum and vitriol, rusty nails are buried under the bush, and peat is introduced.

What varieties are available

In central Russia, mainly winter-hardy types of garden hydrangia are grown. Several dozen varieties have taken root remarkably.

Of greater interest are remontant varieties blooming both on last year's and fresh shoots. Thanks to the selection of these varieties, the large-leaved hydrangea has received a new life.

Nikko Blue

Shrub height up to 1.5 meters. The colors of this variety are different (depending on the acidity of the soil) - from white to intensely lilac. Can be grown at home. The variety originates from the broadleaf species Endless Summer. Nikko Blue develops rapidly, expanding, and releases young shoots every year.

The inflorescences are attractive, large, up to 30 centimeters in diameter. Repairability lies in the fact that the flowers bloom on the stems that have overwintered and current. The blooming ball appears to be light, weightless. The weak acidity of the soil will allow a constant blue color, and for the intensity of the color, aluminum sulfate in dissolved form should be applied under the bush.

Sweet Fantasy

The erect bush is strewn with oval leaves and large spherical inflorescences (up to 25 centimeters in coverage). The flowers are pink interspersed with burgundy. Refers to a changeable species, the variety is capable of changing color. Blooms in July and August. Requires shelter, very thermophilic variety, does not like alkaline soils.

Tivoli

The shrub on the street grows up to 1.8 meters in height. The burgundy flower, framed by a white color, has a coverage of 20 centimeters. Loves acidic soils, changes color, under specially created conditions. Lover of partial shade and southern parts of the garden.

Variegata

A low-growing (up to 1 meter) shrub of this variety has white flowers. The leaves are interestingly colored: green with white edging. The acidity of the soil should be reduced, does not like liming. Looks great in group compositions.

Alpengluchen

Red, dense pink color of flowers. The bush is 100-125 centimeters. Decorativeness increases on acidic soil. It blooms in early to mid-summer.

Red baron

Shoots of this variety grow up to one and a half meters in height. Bright red flowers are collected in globular inflorescences. Bloom - July and August.

Bodensee

An expensive variety of large-leaved hydrangea. Inflorescences (25-30 centimeters) consist of small lace flowers in the center, becoming larger at the edge. The repair plant blooms for a long time: first on last year's shoots, then on young ones. The shrub needs support because of its height (1.5 meters) and to support the peduncles.

Endless summer

Flowers on this plant bloom, both on old, lignified shoots, and on the stems of the current year. Initially, they have a blue color, there are also white colors.

Magic Sunfields

Spherical large inflorescences have an original color: red with green. The height of the shrub is 1.5 meters.

Expression

Winter-resistant, continuous flowering variety (on old and new shoots). Double flowers look like water lilies. The colors are pink, blue, purple, changing from the reaction of the soil environment. The bush is 1 meter high and about the same in coverage. At the beginning of flowering, there is a creamy yellowish color in the center, which gives the effect of two colors.

Ever Peppermint

Low (up to 60 centimeters) remontant bush. Double color: white border on the edge, and inside - blue, pink or lilac color.

Red sensation

The "Red Sensation" is a hydrangea that blooms continuously (twice). First on last year's stem, then on a fresh shoot. Height 70-80 centimeters, the same width. The color is always red, only changing the intensity.Sun in the morning, partial shade in the afternoon: ideal conditions for this variety.

You & Me Forever

Bicolor, twice-blooming macrophile. The bush reaches 80 centimeters in height, the width exceeds this size. The color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the earth, and changes from blue to pink.

Agrotechnics of large-flowered hydrangea

This type of hydrangia is the most whimsical, it is thermophilic. Therefore, all varieties, both remontant and ordinary, require shelter for the winter. It is not difficult to grow a hydrangea bush on your site by performing sequential activities.

Correct planting, soil preparation

The plant is planted singly or in groups. In the second case, the distance between the seedlings is at least 1 meter. Macrophila prefers acidic, drained soils. Grows well in sunny areas with shade in the middle of the day.

Planting is carried out in early spring so that good roots appear over the summer, or in autumn. Dig a hole 30 by 30 centimeters in size (and a depth of 30 cm), add humus, sand and peat. Plant the hydrangea and water thoroughly. Finish the work by mulching the near-stem part with a mixture of peat and fertile soil.

Important! The root collar is not buried, leaving it at ground level. The roots can be trimmed a little. Annual shoots are also shortened when planting (by 3 buds).

Watering and feeding

Do not allow the plant to dry out, the formation of a crust under it. Water regularly, while feeding the bush.

In the spring, special fertilizers containing nitrogen and trace elements are applied under the hydrangea, which also contribute to the color change of the flower. Moderate acidification of the soil is carried out if a blue color is needed, and alkalization is necessary to obtain a pink tint.

In summer, fertilize with phosphorus and potassium mixtures, strengthening the plant for winter.

Pruning

Young plantings are not subjected to formative pruning for three years. They only get rid of dried-up branches. Their presence is determined by scraping a small area with a fingernail - the green color indicates that the stem is not dead, and the brown one is dry.

Large-leaved varieties need very careful pruning. In order not to harm the buds that form in the fall, lignified stems should not be greatly shortened in the spring (spring pruning in adult bushes is carried out by reducing the ends of the shoots by 1-2 buds).

Macrophile pruning is carried out to rejuvenate, stimulate growth and shape the bush. In summer, during flowering, a third of the non-flowering stems can be removed, up to 20 centimeters above the ground (leaving the lower bud). They will bloom next year.

Shelter for the winter

• Before the onset of frost (until November), the center of the bush is covered with peat or hilled;
• Bend the branches neatly to the ground, without pruning, and the leaves must be removed so that they do not rot;
• If a break is obtained, then put a wooden box or log under the branches;
• Cover everything with spunbond or other non-woven covering material;
• Pour enough fallen leaves and light grass on top;
• Finish the "construction" with a film or roofing felt, giving stability, so as not to be blown away by snowstorms.

In the spring, the entire shelter is dismantled gradually, completely getting rid of it when the frost passes.

How to propagate

The breeding methods are as follows:

1. We divide the bush. In spring or autumn, the plant is dug up, divided into parts (so that buds remain on each). Long roots can be shortened. They are seated in prepared holes.
2. Rooting with bent layering. At the very beginning of May, bend a flexible twig (several), securing it in a nearby groove. Tear off the leaves, scrape off the bark and sprinkle with earth. Water during the summer, check. By the fall, a layering root system will develop, and it will be possible to cut the stem from the mother bush. The next spring, this new bush is planted.
3. Propagated by cuttings. At the beginning of summer, several cuttings are cut from annual shoots, 10 centimeters long. Make a slice downward in height.Cut the upper leaves on the petiole to the middle, remove the lower ones. Stimulate the workpieces in a special solution and plant them in the ground in a greenhouse or pot. After a month, the roots will grow back, they need to be transplanted into separate pots, and for the winter they should be dug in the garden right in the pot. You can leave at home until spring.

Hydrangea is a beautiful garden flower with fluffy multi-colored caps. They are represented by several types: by the type of shrubs up to 3 m high, small trees and vines, which can braid a tree up to 30 m in height. The hydrangea will bloom from spring to frost, delighting with its globular inflorescences. However, there are species for which this time is shorter.

Hydrangea planting rules

You can plant a hydrangea in early spring or fall. In this case, the first option will be preferable. For hydrangeas, you need to choose the right planting site. She prefers acidic soil with good moisture. With regard to lighting, these flowers can feel comfortable both in the sun and in partial shade.

The whole planting process can be divided into several stages:

1. It is necessary to dig a hole 40-50 cm deep and 40 cm in diameter. If the hydrangea bushes or outgrowths are small, you can make the hydrangea slightly smaller.
2. Now you need to prepare a soil mixture consisting of fertile soil, humus and peat. It is advisable to add 50 g of mineral fertilizer to it. If possible, such a mixture is left in the pit for 15 to 30 days. If the soil at the planting site is rich and fertile, then the plant can be planted directly into it without prior preparation.
3. The prepared seedling must be placed in the center of the planting pit so that its root collar is not deeply buried. Around the plant, you should carefully cover it with soil and tamp it so that the roots are well pressed and there is no void around them.
4. The planted bush should be watered abundantly. It is advisable to additionally sprinkle the soil on top with sawdust, bark or peat.

After planting a hydrangea bush, it is better to cover it from sunlight for a few days. This will allow the plant to take root faster. Hydrangea can be planted both singly and in groups. In this case, the distance between the bushes should be about 1 meter.

Basic rules for caring for hydrangea

Hydrangea care comes down primarily to proper watering, timely feeding, pruning and loosening. If you do everything right, the bushes will be lush, and the inflorescences will be large and bright.

Watering

Hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant that requires frequent watering. It should be plentiful, 15 - 20 liters for each adult bush. In hot weather, this should be done once a week. In hot and dry summers, watering can be increased up to twice a week. In this case, you need to focus on the condition of the soil, given how quickly it absorbs moisture and dries out.

For watering, it is best to use settled soft water at room temperature. Periodically, you need to add a little potassium permanganate to it, which will prevent the appearance of rot. Water the hydrangea in the morning or evening, when it is not too hot.

Top dressing

For good development and lush flowering, hydrangea needs to be fed. For this, both organic and mineral fertilizers are suitable. Their use is especially important during periods of intensive growth. You can buy ready-made fertilizers that are rich in magnesium and iron. Feeding in the form of a solution of poultry droppings with water in a ratio of 1:10 in combination with a mineral composition of 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of nitrate and 10 g of urea has a good composition. You can use any slurry as a fertilizer, just observe the measure, otherwise the buds will be too large, which can cause fragile branches to break.

It is necessary to fertilize hydrangea not only during planting, but periodically as it grows. The first such feeding should be done at the end of May. It should be repeated after two weeks.You can fertilize flowers throughout the summer, but in August it is advisable to stop feeding so that the shoots can become woody for winter.

Mulching

Thanks to the mulching of the trunk circle, the roots of the hydrangea will be protected from overheating and rapid growth of weeds. You must first make an organic mulch consisting of wood chips or peat. It should be scattered evenly around the bush. This will help make the soil more acidic, which is what hydrangeas need. This mulch will gradually become part of the soil.

It is best to apply mulch under the bushes in late spring, when the soil is well warmed up. Mulching is also possible in late autumn, when temperatures are below zero. Periodically, the shrubs need to be loosened so that the soil is more moisture-permeable.

Pruning

Pruning is done on plants that are 3 to 4 years old. This should be done in early spring - before sap flow and budding begin. If carried out too early, the cuttings will not be suitable for further rooting, and if it is too late, the plant may die. This is why it is important to prune when the buds are just starting to swell.

When pruning in mature plants, cut 3/4 of the height of each shoot with a pruning shear. In this case, 2 - 3 pairs of kidneys should remain on them. Old bushes can be renewed at the root. Everything will depend on the condition of the bush or tree. You need to cut off old or frozen shoots. During pruning, you can form a beautiful small tree with a certain shape. In the first year of the hydrangea's growth, its flowers should be removed. this will encourage more abundant flowering next year.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

Hydrangea belongs to heat-loving plants, so it must be protected in the winter season. Young shoots and insufficiently winter-hardy varieties need special protection. If the bush is very young, you can simply cover it from above with earth, fallen leaves or sawdust. Older plants must be bent to the ground and covered with roofing material or lutrasil. To prevent the wind from blowing it away, you need to press down the covering material with bricks.

Mature bushes require more cover. We must try not to break them. The bush should be tied up, and then covered with spunbond or lutrasil, after which a frame of metal mesh or other materials at hand can be built around it. It should be about 20-25 cm away from the bush. The free space must be filled with dry foliage. Such an insulated frame will protect the hydrangea well even in severe frosts. You can remove it in the spring, when there is a stable above-zero temperature.

Propagation of hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated in several ways:

1. Cuttings. Reproduction in this way is best done in mid-spring or early summer. One-year lateral shoots must be used as blanks. They should be about 10-12 cm long. Cuttings should be cut at right angles. From the bottom they need to remove the leaves. To root cuttings, you need to prepare the soil. For this, a light substrate is used, consisting of fertile soil, peat and sand. You need to plant cuttings in it, placing them at an angle. Each individual plant should be 5 cm apart. It will take about a month to root the shoots.
2. By dividing the bush. It can be propagated both in spring and autumn. To do this, the plant must be dug up and divided into several parts so that each individual bush has a bud of renewal. After that, the plant is simply planted in the prepared places.
3. Layers. For the propagation of hydrangeas by layering, you need to select young shoots, which will not be more than a year old. They should be bent to the ground and dug in so that a small top of 20 cm remains on top. The next year, the shoot will take root and it can be separated from the main bush and planted in another place.
4. Seeds.This is a rather troublesome process, so this breeding method is rarely used. The seeds need to be grown at home. To do this, they are planted in pots and only lightly sprinkled with sand. They need to be watered and fertilized frequently as they grow.

Popular types of hydrangea

Before planting a hydrangea, you need to decide on the choice of a suitable type. Each of them has its own growing characteristics that must be taken into account when planting and caring for. The most popular among gardeners: Large-leaved Hydrangea, Panicle Hydrangea, Petiole Hydrangea, Treelike Hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

It will delight with flowering in July-August. This hydrangea has bright, dense foliage. The shoots of the current year look herbaceous, which is why the plant has a low cold resistance. Flowers have an umbrella shape. They can have different colors depending on the variety, the intensity of which depends on the acidity of the soil. The more acidic it is, the brighter the hydrangea will be. The height of the bush reaches up to 2 m.

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)

It blooms from mid-summer until the onset of cold weather. Inflorescences of this type have a pyramidal shape. They can reach a length of up to 30 cm. Panicle hydrangea grows as a shrub that can reach a height of 5 m or as a small tree up to 10 m. This species is considered more frost-resistant and unpretentious.

Stalked hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris)

It is a shrub vine. It will require an additional support to which it will be attached with air suction cups. In length, it grows up to 25 m. This is a suitable species for planting near arches and arbors. Inflorescences have a corymbose shape up to 25 cm in size.

Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens)

It grows up to 3 meters in height. The flowers are predominantly white or cream in color. There are several varieties of this species, differing in different colors. In winter, the plant can freeze slightly, so it must be carefully wrapped. In April, the bushes need to be heavily pruned. The flowers grow in large fluffy inflorescences.

Ground cover hydrangea (Hydrangea heteromalla)

It is also called the Bretschneider hydrangea. This species is considered hardy and unpretentious. The bush reaches 2 - 3 m in height. The inflorescences are corymbose. At first they are white, and at the end of flowering they turn pink. Such a hydrangea blooms in the middle of summer.

Recommendations for planting and caring for hydrangea in the garden - video

Garden or large-leaved hydrangea is a gorgeous shrub in every sense. Despite the fact that this plant is initially not hardy, the fashion for it has spread to our gardens as well. The magnificent caps of the inflorescences with unique shades of color, the luxurious leaves and silhouettes of this queen among the hydrangas are enchanting. And only after planting a bush or two of large-leaved hydrangea in their garden, many gardeners discover all the "pitfalls". This, the most difficult to grow, hydrangea requires systemic care and attention, careful selection of conditions and, in general, is quite capricious.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Content:

• Botanical features of large-leaved hydrangea
• Criteria for choosing a garden hydrangea, or large-leaved
• Conditions required for large-leaved hydrangea
• Planting large-leaved hydrangeas
• Large-leaved hydrangea care
• Wintering large-leaved hydrangea
• Pest and disease control of large-leaved hydrangea

Botanical features of large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangea, or garden (Hydrangea macrophylla) is a highly decorative and fast-growing type of hydrangea native to Japan and China. The maximum height in a region with severe winters is limited to 1-2 m.This species has erect shoots, ovoid, large, bright green leaves and flat wide inflorescence shields up to 15 cm in diameter and up to 10 cm in height, consisting of fruiting lilac or blue and large pink, with irregular bright strokes, reaching up to 3.5 cm in diameter, sterile flowers.

Hydrangea inflorescences, the flowering of which starts in July, remain highly decorative until next spring: they dry out, but still remain very attractive.

Large-leaved hydrangeas, the fashion for which came to us from the West, so captivating in tubs and pots, so unique in their beauty of their almost spherical dense inflorescences and bright foliage - shrubs are still capricious and unadapted to the harsh climate. But this does not prevent them from growing even in regions with harsh winters.

And although these beauties need special care and protection for the winter, their beauty, nevertheless, is unmatched. And it doesn't matter if you decide to transplant a potted hydrangea into the garden or originally purchased a garden plant - the principles of growing and caring for the shrub will still be the same. The main difficulty in growing large-leaved hydrangeas is associated with the need to preserve last year's shoots, on which this type of hydrangea blooms, during a long and harsh winter, not only without freezing, but also without drying out.

Criteria for choosing garden hydrangea, or large-leaved

Choosing the right variety is a key success factor in growing large-leaved hydrangeas. This plant has more winter-hardy and less hardy varieties that can only winter indoors. The declared frost resistance of this type of hydrangea is up to -18 ° C, typical only for varieties adapted to the harsh climate and mainly modern ones.

When choosing hydrangeas, you should give preference to plants not according to the degree of their decorativeness, but according to the factor of adaptability to your climate - the plants of local garden centers and nurseries. Imported large-leaved hydrangeas are more likely to cause disappointment.

Be sure to check if the variety has been tested in your area or is grown in a climate similar to yours. When choosing a variety, you should pay attention to one more very important factor: remontability or common cultivar.

Repaired varieties, to which the majority of modern macrophylls belong, are hydrangeas, which can boast not only a variety of colors, but also the ability to bloom both on last year's and on young shoots. Such hydrangeas are guaranteed to bloom: even if something fails or winter protection is not enough, young branches will still give at least a few inflorescences.

Macrophylla hydrangea is grown differently from other types of hydrangeas, including treelike and paniculate. If other species have much more in common than excellent in the requirements for care and selection of conditions, then the large-leaved hydrangea requires a special approach to itself.

Large-leaved hydrangeas should only be bought in containers or pots: seedlings with an open root system do not take root well and should not even be experimented with in regions with harsh winters (injuries sustained by the root system will not allow the plant to fully adapt and grow the root system sufficient for to withstand the winter even with shelter).

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Despite the status of shade-tolerant shrubs, inherent in all hydrangeas without exception, macrophylls do not belong to such. Even in southern regions with mild winters, this plant can be planted only in partial shade, and not in the shade, and in regions with severe winters, plants should be classified as light-loving.

But when choosing a place for a large-leaved hydrangea, you should not rush to plant it on hot sunny areas, protecting it from the midday and lunch rays. So that the large-leaved hydrangea does not suffer from heat and overheating of the roots, the plants are planted in a place where they will be illuminated not by the daytime, but by the morning or evening sun (but not less than 6 hours a day). Ordinary sunny areas will lead to the fact that in summer the leaves and inflorescences of the bush will wither and wither every day, and the latter may not recover even at night.

When choosing a place, it is worth considering the location in relation to trees and shrubs.Despite the fact that in most landscape projects hydrangeas can be seen under the trees, planting macrophylls in such a company is still not a good idea. Hydrangea is moisture-loving and under woody ones it can suffer from a lack of moisture, which giants will pull from the soil.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Planting macrophylls requires great care and careful preparation. The main attention should be paid to the preparation of the site and the soil mixture, which will be filled with the planting pit.

The optimal planting time in regions with severe winters (including in the middle lane) is spring. Planting hydrangeas is carried out as soon as the weather permits, the soil will not only thaw, but also warm up, and the threat of severe frosts will pass.

For large-leaved hydrangea, the recommended planting distance is about 1 m.

Hydrangea is not simply covered with soil removed during the digging of a hole, but a special soil mixture is prepared in which the roots adapt and germinate faster. Peat, humus, coniferous soil are added to the garden soil in equal shares, preparing a loose and super nutritious soil mixture.

The garden soil removed from the hole, in turn, can be replaced with a mixture in equal proportions of sod, leafy soil and sand. But the key point is to determine the acidity of the soil, which, in turn, will provide the color of the inflorescences. If you want to grow those very blue, blue or purple hydrangeas (you can get them only from varieties with a pink or red color, but not from white-flowered hydrangeas), then you need to prepare in advance such a soil that will provide the original high acidity.

For blue colored hydrangeas, the pH should be between 5.0 and 5.5. For hydrangeas with white, pink and red inflorescences, the permissible value is from 6.0 to 6.2 (in acidic soil, the color of non-white varieties will change to lilac or blue).

In any case, large-leaved hydrangeas should not be planted in soil with a calcareous reaction (maximum permissible pH value is 6.4). If you want to get blue or lilac colors, then you need to add aluminum sulfate to the soil. At the same time, if the soil is changed specifically to obtain blue hydrangeas, it must be remembered that such an addition is only the first step. In the future, it will be possible to save the colors only with proper watering and fertilization. In addition to the acidifying additive, a full portion of complex mineral fertilizers is also applied to the soil. Today, the addition of hydrogel has become fashionable, which allows you to more effectively retain moisture.

The size of the planting pit should correspond to the size of the root ball of a large-leaved hydrangea: about 35 cm deep and wide for small bushes in small containers and half-meter holes for larger specimens. Preparing the landing pit will also require additional tweaks. To avoid the risk of water stagnation even on ordinary clay soils, improve water and air permeability, create an optimal environment at the bottom of the planting pits, you need to lay a drainage layer (expanded clay or pebbles, but not crushed stone).

Before planting, the upper free layer of the substrate is carefully removed from the container (usually it is quite dirty), and the plant is watered abundantly for at least a few hours. When taking out a hydrangea, you need to be very careful and try not to destroy the earthen lump. In a cramped container or pot, strong young roots tend to curl around the perimeter of an earthen coma, as if entangling the substrate. They need to be straightened, straightened carefully, without injuring the small roots.

A thin layer of soil is poured at the bottom of the hole and a small mound is created. A hydrangea is placed on it, straightening long roots. Then the seedling is carefully covered with the prepared soil mixture, carefully tamping the soil and gently compacting it around the root ball. When planting, you need to ensure that the depth of the root collar does not change.

Planting large-leaved hydrangea is completed with abundant watering and mulching: the trunk circle is covered with a layer of peat or a mixture of peat and compost with a height of 7 to 10 cm.

Planting a large-leaved hydrangea

Humidity and watering requirements

Large-leaved hydrangeas, like any other species of this shrub, are not accidentally named hydrangeas. But if some types of hydrangeas are content only with watering in a drought, then the large-leaved beauty needs a more careful approach. For this hydrangea, the soil in the trunk circle must be kept constantly moist.

Since uniform humidity can only be achieved with systemic irrigation, the macrophylla hydrangea is watered regularly (at least once a month), teaching procedures in drought and heat (the optimal strategy is 1 watering per week). For each hydrangea bush, 20-25 liters of water are used, deeply soaking the soil under the plant. Hydrangeas are watered at the root, so that both the garden soil and the lump of earth that was saved during planting are saturated.

Shrubs need watering not only in spring and summer, but also in autumn. Lack of moisture during winter preparation can cause severe damage to the plant. But excessive humidity in autumn is also very dangerous. If the weather is rainy and there is a lot of precipitation, then the large-leaved hydrangea is protected from getting wet, because it should go under the shelter with low soil moisture and dried crown.

You can simplify the watering process by taking care of mulching: it will allow you to more effectively retain moisture and protect the root system from overheating. For mulching garden hydrangeas, materials are used that play the role of an acidifying additive - coniferous litter, coniferous soil or pine bark. Refill mulch 2-3 times per season.

The characteristics of the water for irrigating hydrangeas are of great importance. For blue and lilac hydrangeas, watering can be carried out only with soft or acidified water, the pH value of which does not exceed 5.5. But for any other hydrangeas, it is preferable to use soft or rain, warm, settled water.

For large-leaved hydrangeas, drip irrigation systems can be installed that effectively direct water to the roots and maintain a stable soil moisture.

Watering large-leaved hydrangea

Pruning and shaping a large-leaved hydrangea

As is the case with most flowering shrubs, garden hydrangeas should not be pruned immediately and started from the first year on. In the first three years, the shrub builds up the root system, and while the rooting process lasts, you should not expect lush flowering, there is no need to carry out regular pruning procedures to stimulate it. The only thing that the bushes will need is sanitary pruning or cleaning, during which dry and damaged shoots are removed.

Only after three years do they begin to carry out regular procedures. Hydrangea inflorescences can be removed both in autumn and spring, but it is better to leave them for the winter, like the upper leaves, for optimal protection of the buds. Pruning on remontant and ordinary, blooming only on the shoots of the previous year, hydrangeas, is different:

1. In ordinary varieties, pruning is carried out in early spring, after removing the shelter, combining sanitary pruning with the removal of last year's inflorescences to the first living bud on the branches (if the inflorescences were not removed in autumn).
2. In remontant hydrangeas, pruning is carried out to the second or third bud on all shoots, stimulating the development of several lateral peduncles and increasing the number of inflorescences.

On old bushes of large-leaved hydrangea, for rejuvenation, a partial cut is carried out in the spring: 2-3 of the oldest shoots are removed (but not more than a quarter of all branches), in place of which new replacing branches will gradually grow. Radical rejuvenation will not only make you wait for a new flowering for several years, but also increase the risk of losing hydrangeas. It is better to rejuvenate the plant gradually, removing the oldest shoots in a few years.

Pruning hydrangea large-leaved

Top dressing and acidification for macrophylla hydrangea

When choosing the type of fertilizer for feeding, the desired color of large-leaved hydrangeas should be taken into account. For blue and lilac hydrangeas, only fertilizers with a low phosphorus content can be used, an excess or even the usual amount of which can prevent discoloration. For intense and clean red and pink hydrangeas, on the contrary, fertilizers with a high phosphorus content are chosen.

For hydrangeas, it is better to use special fertilizers, which are in the product lines of all popular manufacturers of garden dressings. Fertilizers are also suitable for other plants that love acidic soil - rhododendrons, heathers, etc. But you can use a complex universal fertilizer, and separately nitrogen, potash and phosphorus fertilizers, mixing them yourself.

The main advantage of special fertilizers for hydrangeas is the correct ratio not only of the main elements, but of microelements that fully meet the characteristics of the shrub.

If you mix fertilizers yourself, and do not use ready-made preparations, then for blue hydrangeas, mix 25 g of nitrogen fertilizers with 5 g of phosphorus and 30 g of potash for 1 feeding, and for pink and red ones - 10 g of nitrogen with 40 g of phosphorus and 10 g of potassium ...

For large-leaved hydrangeas, three dressings are usually applied:

1. Spring, which is introduced at the very beginning of the growth of a large-leaved hydrangea and contains all three trace elements (you can replace it with organic fertilizing or combine both dressings).
2. Two summer dressings (in June for setting the buds and a few weeks after the beginning of flowering), which can be carried out both with special fertilizers for hydrangeas, and exclusively with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which improve the ripening of shoots and preparation for winter.

For all hydrangeas, from which they want to achieve blue, blue or purple flowering, in addition to the usual dressings, acidifying procedures are carried out by watering the plant with special fertilizers. During the entire active season, with a frequency of 1 time in 7-14 days, the plant is watered with aluminum sulfate, or rather, with an aqueous solution of aluminum sulfate in the ratio of 1 tablespoon of the drug to 1 liter of water.

Iron or aluminum alum is also used (8-10 crystals per 2 liters of water per plant). For hydrangeas that want to get a bright pink or red color, when the color changes and signs of soil over-acidification, it is better to carry out the reverse procedure in time - alkalinization, adding a handful of ash or dolomite flour to the soil.

Aluminum sulphate for acidifying the soil and coloring the flowers of large-leaved hydrangeas

The easiest way to protect low-hardy large-leaved hydrangeas for the winter is to dig and carry them into pots and containers, keeping them either in a cool room with tubs, or on a windowsill in a room with at least 2 months of full shading.

However, constant digging and planting will not allow the plant to build up a normal root system, and the lack of a full-fledged dormant phase will still affect flowering, and the risk of infection with diseases and pests will increase. If you want to keep the macrophylla hydrangea indoors in winter, then it is better to grow it initially as an indoor or garden container plant, the care of which is somewhat different from the general rules.

For successful overwintering in the soil, any macrophylla hydrangea, without exception, needs protection and shelter; even the newest varieties with increased resistance or remontant varieties bloom more luxuriantly due to the ability to release inflorescences on young twigs. Indeed, even in the best hydrangeas, winter hardiness is limited to only 18 degrees of frost. Shelter for garden hydrangeas is often compared to sheltering roses, and they do have a lot in common.

The classic method of protecting large-leaved hydrangea for the winter involves the creation of several layers of shelter:

• in mid-September, leaves are removed from the bottom of the bushes of large-leaved hydrangea to improve lignification, and before the first frost, the leaves are removed up to half of the shoots (if it is rainy in autumn, then a frame is additionally built over the plant to protect it from waterlogging);
• in late October or early November (if autumn is cold and the first frosts are observed earlier, then in mid-October), the hydrangea bush is spud with peat, using about 1 bucket per plant;
• when the temperature drops greatly, spruce branches or a board are laid on the soil, the shoots of the plant are tilted and pinned;
• the bush is covered with a dense layer of nonwovens;
• from above the bushes are covered with dry leaves;
• non-soaking protective materials (roofing material or film) are laid on the leaves.

Each stage of the shelter is created in a few days, completely closing the hydrangeas only with the onset of stable frosts: damping off threatens the shrub no less than freezing. The holes in the shelter are left until severe frosts, if possible, opening them up during periods of thaw.

Hilling large-leaved hydrangea for the winter

There are other options for sheltering a large-leaved hydrangea:

• the huddled bushes of large-leaved hydrangea are bent to the ground, covered with leaves or covered with spruce branches, and covered with boxes or wooden boxes on top;
• after hilling, spruce branches are laid out around the bushes or wooden flooring is installed, shoots are pinned and the bushes of large-leaved hydrangea are covered with spruce branches or dry leaves, covering from above with non-woven materials; the last layer of shelter is created from peat or sawdust, covered with waterproof materials

Removal of the shelter is carried out gradually, layer by layer, with a difference from 2 to 3 days to 1 week. They begin to remove the shelter in April, and finish only after the threat of spring frosts has completely disappeared.

Pest and disease control of large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangeas can hardly be called the most persistent and hardy. This type of hydrangea often suffers from:

• from chlorosis, which occurs on alkaline soil and when irrigated with hard water, most often manifests itself in yellowing of the leaves (you can fight by acidifying the soil);
• from downy mildew, which manifests itself in oily yellow spots (it is better to fight with copper-containing preparations and fungicides);
• from rust (the main method of control is spraying with copper sulfate);
• from septoria (fungicides, burgundy and Bordeaux liquid);
• from spider mites, which, during drought and low humidity, easily entwine all shoots (requires the use of insecticides);
• from mice and other rodents who are attracted by a warm winter shelter (it is better to set traps in advance or spread the appropriate means).

In the first year after planting, it is advisable to water any large-leaved hydrangea with a weak solution of a fungicide of complex action to protect it from rot and diseases (you can also use a weak solution of potassium permanganate).

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

In the fall, as part of the procedures for preparing for the winter for large-leaved hydrangeas, it is better to carry out preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture, which will improve the preservation of the branches, reduce the risk of overheating and prevent fungal diseases.

Large-leaved hydrangea in the video.

Seeing a large-leaved garden hydrangea only once, few growers can resist not acquiring such a seedling for their site. But do not rush - before deciding on such a crucial step, you need to, as they say, “measure seven times”. The fact is that care for this form of culture requires a special, more thorough one than for other species.

This hydrangea is the dream of all Russian gardeners. No arguments that this plant, strictly speaking, is not for our climate, do not work. Typically, the plant is bought from a garden center or store. Without hesitation, they plant it, admire the flowering, and in the fall they cover it in the same way as roses. Then the bush turns green every year, but does not bloom. As a rule, there are two mistakes here.Either the upper buds at the ends of the shoots die (they are floral, the plant will not bloom on the shoots of the current year), or the hapless gardener himself cuts the bush in the spring - his look is too unpresentable.

Winter hardiness of large-leaved garden hydrangea

As a rule, no one thinks about the winter hardiness of large-leaved hydrangeas sold in our flower shops, as a rule, without the name of the variety. However, most of the widely commercially available hydrangeas according to the American USDA classification, which are used by many countries, in their requirements for growing conditions correspond to the 6th zone, that is, they withstand a temperature drop from -17.8 to -23.6 ° C. Russia is located in the 4th zone, which corresponds to the temperature limits from -28.9 to -34.4 ° C. Varieties of the 6th zone must be carefully, "to the very top", covered or, what is more correct and simpler, grown in containers, which must be removed in a cool place for the winter, if there is one, of course.

But how to grow a large-leaved hydrangea, if there is nowhere to hide it from frost, and the plant will have to be planted in the ground at your own peril and risk? And figure out how hardy this or that variety is you are not able to? Then buy a copy with powerful stems and a cap of inflorescences without any special frills. A floral plant worthy of an Art Nouveau garden, with stems supported by bamboo props is clearly not for your situation.

Check out the photos and descriptions of the varieties of large-leaved hydrangea and the peculiarities of growing these plants.

The best remontant varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas for the Moscow region

Winter hardiness of large-leaved hydrangea is a relative concept for the Russian climate in any case. Firstly, a lot depends on the microclimate of the site. Secondly, on the characteristics of the given variety. And from a specific winter, which, as we know, is unpredictable in our country ... Freezing rains, long frosts without snow, a thick crust, under which even the old-timers of the garden vomit out.

However, now there are series that are most suitable for growing in the gardens of central Russia. Among them are the so-called remontant plants of the large-leaved hydrangea.

They appeared in the 80s of the last century, when American Michael Dyrr accidentally saw a hydrangea in one of the nurseries of Minnesota, which was blooming at a time when all the others had already faded. Michael registered the cultivar, which he later presented as "remontant" (continuously blooming, that is, capable of blooming on the shoots of the previous year, and new ones that had just grown).

This variety of large-leaved hydrangea is named ‘Endless Summer’.

Now this is not only the name of the variety, but also a series that unites several varieties of remontant hydrangeas. The Forever & Ever series was created on the basis of the even more winter-hardy remontant variety of large-leaved hydrangea ‘Early Sensation’.

The ancestor herself can now hide under the names ‘Forever & Ever Hydrangea’, ‘Forever & Ever Pink / Blue’.

There is another series - Hovaria.

According to the literature, it is considered frost-resistant. However, a clear description of the series and its varieties, apparently, does not exist even in foreign sources. The question of the remontability of plants also remains open. Some varieties are found in the lists of hydrangeas that bloom only on last year's shoots, others are positioned as "ever-flowering", that is, capable of blooming on the shoots of the current year.

A real gift for flower growers is the appearance of the You & Me series of winter-hardy hydrangeas. There are three varieties included in it:

‘You & Me Romance’, ‘You & Me Expression’, ‘You & Me Together.

When describing these large-leaved hydrangeas, the doubleness of their flowers and the ability to bloom on the shoots of the past and current years are especially noted.

However, when buying a coveted plant, a gardener faces one serious difficulty - varieties, as a rule, have numerous commercial names.

So, for example, a white terry ‘You & Me Soso’ can be sold as ‘Double Star Coco’, ‘Coco Blanc’, ‘Triple Star Coco’.

The fact that this is one and the same plant, sellers, as a rule, simply do not know. You will have to figure it out yourself.

If you do not want to delve into all this, just choose a seedling on the label which says "remontant", that is, reblooming, everyblooming, persistence, newwood. Most likely, these will be new and supernova varieties.

In fact, broad-leaved hydrangeas, which bloom even in the case of complete frost damage to the aboveground part of the plant, have existed for a long time. For example, varieties:

‘Passion’

'Altona'

'Marechal Foch'

'Veitchii'

‘Hamburg’

‘Sirjoseph Banks’

They just didn't pay much attention to it. In principle, this option is also possible. You are rooting cuttings of a variety that blooms on old shoots. However, some of the young bushes begin to behave like remontant ones. Why is unknown. But this explains the fact that before the Second World War and in the fifties of the last century, "remontant" hydrangeas were rarely found in private gardens. It was just that the gardeners of those years did not realize their value.

So how do large-leaved hydrangea remontant varieties behave in Russia?

When the ‘Endless Summer’ variety was first introduced to our country, everyone was sure that it was not necessary to cover her.

As a result, the hydrangeas froze over and only by the fall they gave out flower hats on an indecently low bush. And in the second year, many of them froze altogether. There is only one conclusion from this - uncovering broad-leaved hydrangeas do not exist for our climate.

If you have a cellar or other suitable place for storing hydrangeas in winter, it is worth looking for varieties recognized as world masterpieces and planting them in containers.

These are Japanese hydrangeas from The Masters Collection (shields of fertile flowers are surrounded by a wreath of sterile terry)

Lady Katsuko (flowers framed with a white border)

And also the Dutch Ladies series with highly dissected petals, like a carnation.

There is another amazingly beautiful large-leaved hybrid hydrangea ‘Big Smile’ (‘Sweet Chris’ / ‘Koria’), (H. macrophylla x H. serrata)... The inflorescence is a flat scutellum.

Look at the photo - this large-leaved hydrangea has fertile central flowers, blue, marginal flowers are large, sterile, white with a pink blush and a blue center:

Refers to the 6th zone. Re-flowering is possible.

‘Endless Summer’ (pink) / ‘Endless Summer’ (blue).

The first repaired hydrangea to achieve worldwide fame. Inflorescences with a diameter of 10-15 cm are decorated with a round, dense dense until frost. The height and width of the bush is 120-150 cm.

'Endless Summer Nwist-n-Shout'

The openwork center of fertile flowers is surrounded by sterile flowers that can change color. On alkaline soil, they will be pink, on acidic soil, they will be blue. The bush is 90 to 120 cm high and wide. In autumn, the leaves of this one of the best varieties of large-leaved hydrangea become burgundy.

'Glowing Embers'

A traditional variety that blooms on last year's shoots. The color of the inflorescences does not depend on the acidity of the soil. The bush is large, the inflorescences are large.

‘Together’ Repaired grade from the You & Me series. The bush is compact, round. Terry flowers are collected in very dense inflorescences with a diameter of 20 cm.

'Mini Penny' (blue)

'Mini Penny' (pink)

The bush is wide and compact, growing slowly.

As shown in the photo, this variety of large-leaved hydrangea is perfect for growing in a container:

The flowers change color depending on the acidity of the soil. Chlorosis-resistant repaired variety.

‘Fireworks’ (‘Hanab’)

The inflorescences of this variety of large-leaved hydrangea, suitable for the Moscow region, are large, lacy. Fertile flowers are pale pink or blue, depending on the acidity of the soil, sterile snow-white double stars. Thanks to the gracefully curved shoots, the bush looks like a fountain. Height and width 90-100 cm. For container growing. Blooms on last year's shoots.

‘Magical Flame’ (‘Mme Emile Mouillere’)

Abundantly blooming remontant hydrangea. The flowers are pink, fringed, with a blue or pink eye, turn pink over time. In autumn, the leaves turn red and yellow. Shrub up to 120 cm high, 80-100 cm wide. Can be grown in a container.

Care for large-leaved hydrangea in spring: feeding and pruning (with video)

When caring for large-leaved hydrangeas, plants need to be fed several times during the season.In the spring, a complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and necessary microelements is mandatory introduced into the trunk circle. If you do not feed large-leaved hydrangeas in the spring, you can hardly count on abundant flowering. It is convenient to use special mixtures of nutrients designed specifically for hydrangeas, they gently acidify the soil, creating favorable conditions for the life of the bush. Special fertilizers for hydrangeas from Pokon, Green Bool, ECOstyle have proven themselves to be excellent. You can also use fertilizers for rhododendrons and azaleas to feed large-leaved hydrangeas. Hydrangeas respond well to feeding with herbal infusions. Two or three buckets of nutrient solution are poured under an adult bush.

In the first half of summer, nitrogen and potassium should prevail in dressings. In the second half of summer, fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus is repeated 1-2 times, without including nitrogen in the mixture, in order to create optimal conditions for the plant to prepare for winter. At the end of August, all feeding should be stopped. It is strongly not recommended to bring ash and lime under the bushes. Hydrangea does not tolerate drought well, so the soil at the base of the bush should always be moist, but stagnant water is also harmful. It is recommended in spring to mulch the soil with peat, bark, pine needles, straw, grass.

In the spring, there is no need to rush with pruning large-leaved hydrangea, even if the branches at first glance look dead. Dry-looking buds can wake up even in late May - very early June. Only then will it become clear which of the branches are really inanimate. At this time, when pruning large-leaved hydrangea, all dry and weak shoots are cut out. A hydrangea bush over 5 years old can be rejuvenated by cutting 1/3 of the old shoots to ground level.

If you need to form a bush, be prepared to do it for two seasons. When caring for large-leaved hydrangea in the spring of the first year, the main growths are shortened to strong buds, weak shoots are removed. In autumn, several strong growths are formed, and on the main shoots there are many lateral branches. Weak and breaking the symmetry of the bush are cut from them.

Watch the video "Pruning a Large-leaved Hydrangea" for a better understanding of how to shape a bush:

In the second year, inflorescences are formed on last year's increments. New strong shoots grow in the lower part of the bush. After flowering, you need to cut off the faded shoots into strong buds and remove all weak shoots. This scheme is repeated in the following years.

Next, you will learn how to cover a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter to protect the plant from the cold.

How to grow large-leaved hydrangea and how to cover it for the winter

Large-leaved hydrangea, so that it overwinters well, is watered abundantly in dry autumn. Before the first frost, all inflorescences are cut off, and the bush is wrapped with non-woven material in several layers. It is important that the covering material does not touch the upper buds. After some time, the bush is cleared of leaves. After freezing, they, in spite of the shelter, as a rule, are easily separated from the plant. Then the bush is wrapped again with lutrasil, agril, spunbond, etc.

The hydrangea is thoroughly closed in October. There is no need to wait for the soil to freeze. For young plants, the best shelter is soil. The branches are bent to the ground and covered with earth or peat (layer 2-3 cm). The main thing is that the upper third or better the upper half of each branch is well covered.

The cover of adult large-leaved hydrangeas can be different. For example, peat or sand is poured onto the central part of the bush. The branches are laid out with the "sun", pressing them to the ground with wooden staples, or tied in bundles, which are tied to metal hooks stuck in the ground. It is better to put spruce branches under the branches - this is more reliable.

Older bushes have thick branches and can break when bent. If they need to be preserved, wooden blocks are placed under the fold. To press the branches, boards or bricks are used.If any barrel is still broken, it does not matter, it means that it was high time to cut it, it is too old.

From above, the branches are covered with earth, dry leaves, needles or spruce branches. In the spring, after the snow melts, the plants need to be opened gradually. First, the central part. The bent branches must not be touched yet. In mid-April - early May, they can be released, but cover with lutrasil, if it is thin, in several layers. And keep the branches wrapped up until the last frost, if you do not constantly live outside the city.

Some gardeners practice an air-dry shelter for large-leaved hydrangeas for the winter, such as for roses (without shortening the shoots, of course). The bases of the bushes are covered with dry earth, the shoots are bent, fixed in this position, covered with non-woven material in several layers or spruce branches. Then they build a strong frame over the bent plant (to withstand a layer of snow) from thick wire, boxes or 4 supports and boards and put something waterproof on top, most often roofing material. It is important that the shelter is opaque, otherwise in early spring the structure risks turning into a greenhouse.

Until the cold weather sets in, small ventilation slots are left below. And in the first snowfall, the entire structure is covered with snow. As you can see, there are different ways to carry out an operation called "Covering a large-leaved hydrangea". Which is better - it's hard to say. Maybe the answer depends on the specific winter, or maybe these options are designed for areas with different soil, air humidity and other features of a particular place where hydrangeas grow. One thing is absolutely clear - the dry method is more laborious.

What determines the color of hydrangea and how to change it?

Sometimes varieties of broadleaf hydrangea planted on the site, unexpectedly for the owner, change color. Why does this happen, what does the color of the hydrangea depend on? Did they feed them with something in the nurseries? Or did the shop assistants "chew"?

To begin with, let's leave alone the varieties with white flowers - what do not water them, they will not turn blue or pink. Only by the fall will many acquire a slight "blush", however, regardless of your actions.

Red flowers are affected by temperature and light. In the heat, they turn dark pink, in the shade, like in many other plants, they brighten.

Among the pink and blue hydrangeas, there are also invincible varieties. For example, the pink ‘Princess Beatrix’ will never turn blue, and the blue ‘Marie-Claire’ will never turn pink.

However, there are varieties such as ‘Forever Pink’, ‘Amethyst’, ‘Queen Elisabeth’that can change blue to pink and vice versa. It depends primarily on the presence of aluminum in the soil, and secondly on the level of acidity.

If the pink hydrangea begins to turn blue, and you don't like it at all, you can fix it. How can I change the color of the hydrangea in this case? It is necessary to raise the pH to 6.0 - 6.2. The easiest way to do this is with dolomite flour. Just do not get carried away - otherwise the plant will suffer from chlorosis.

And to prevent the plant from absorbing aluminum, use fertilizers with a high phosphorus content.

If you do not want to change the color of the garden hydrangea and want to leave it blue, you can add dry aluminum sulfate (500 g per m2) to the soil, just not immediately, but in several steps (6-8 times). Fertilizers should be high in potassium and low in phosphorus. In this case, it is necessary to exclude the introduction of bone meal, of course, superphosphate. Another caveat: in order for aluminum to be available to the plant, the pH should be no higher than 5.2-5.5. At a pH of 5.5 to 6.8, the inflorescence will turn purple.

There are several ways to lower the pH, that is, to increase the acidity of the soil:

• water with acidified water at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m2. Use oxalic or citric acid: 1.5-2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water. You can also take 9% malic or acetic acid (for 10 liters of 100 g of vinegar).
• mix sulfur into the soil: 70 g per 1 m2
• add high peat: 1.5 kg per 1 m2
• mulch the near-stem circle of the hydrangea with pine litter.

The most effective way is to use a new, store-bought battery electrolyte. It is essentially diluted sulfuric acid, so handle the electrolyte with care. If your site has a pH of 6, then 2-3 ml of electrolyte with a density of 1.81 g / cm2 is diluted in 1 liter of water. If the density is 1.81 g / cm2, then 0.5-0.7 ml will be needed for 1 liter of water.