Cherry planting and care in the open field in the Urals

Among the questions asked by summer residents who decide to start growing fruit and berry crops, one of the first is how to plant a cherry. The further development and productivity of the tree depends on the correctness of the procedure. A competent approach to planting and adherence to agricultural technology will allow him to delight the owners with an abundance of juicy and tasty berries for up to 15 years.

Suitable place and soil preparation

It is undesirable to transplant cherries: it reacts poorly to the procedure. Therefore, the choice of a place for it must be approached responsibly, trying to immediately take into account how much it grows over time, whether other trees and walls of buildings will interfere with it. The culture prefers loose, well-drained soil. Cherries will be most comfortable in light or medium loamy, sandy or sandy loam soil with a neutral reaction. They do not tolerate acidic soil.

Suitable for them are areas open to the sun, but sheltered from the wind, located in the west, south-west or south side of the garden. In such conditions, trees grow more actively, and berries ripen on their branches faster. When deciding on a place for planting cherries, it is important to take into account its botanical characteristics. Trees bloom early, when the threat of frost has not yet passed. Cherry protection from winds is especially necessary in the winter-spring period. It affects the longevity, health and productivity of plants. Combined with wind, frost can damage trees more. When the cherries bloom, currents of cold air will interfere with pollination, drying out the pistils and making it difficult for the bees to work.

In lowlands, where it is damp and windy, and in areas with swampy soil, crop cultivation will not be successful. It is advisable to plant cherries on gentle slopes, near fences or buildings. In winter, they will trap snow, protecting trees from freezing. Cherries will not benefit from the proximity of groundwater. Their minimum depth at the landing site should be 1.5 m.

The soil for the cherries is prepared in advance. If the procedure is carried out in the spring, the soil is treated in the fall, digging up and enriching it with fertilizers. Organic and mineral compositions are suitable for culture.

For planting, the following components must be brought in (per 1 m²):

• up to 15 kg of manure (compost);
• 100 g of phosphorus fertilizers (superphosphate, phosphate rock);
• 100 g of potassium preparations (potassium sulfate, potassium chloride, potassium salt).

Nitrogen-containing fertilizers cannot be used at this stage, otherwise the roots of the seedlings will get burned in the spring. If the soil on the site is acidic, it is lime. The procedure is carried out before the introduction of manure.

Sapling selection

For cherry planting to be successful, you need to choose the right crop variety. They are guided here, first of all, by the peculiarities of the local climate. For regions located in Central Russia, cherry varieties with good frost resistance are suitable: Shokoladnitsa, Nizhnekamskaya. In the south, more thermophilic varieties are successfully grown: Bagryanaya, Zhukovskaya.For the Moscow region, it is better to choose trees that are not affected by fungal diseases: Toy, Shubinka. In the Urals, cherries Ashinskaya, Bolotovskaya, Mayak have proven themselves well. In the harsh weather conditions of Siberia, the varieties Altai swallow, Metelitsa, Shadrinskaya will be able to survive and bring a generous harvest.

When choosing a seedling, they carefully examine its roots. They must be strong and well developed, free from damage, signs of disease or insect infestation. The wood must also be examined. In a high-quality seedling, it will be ripe. Young trees, at the age of 1-2 years, which were grafted with a cuttings, have a good survival rate. Usually their height is 80-110 cm. From 3-4-year-old seedlings, it will take longer to wait for the harvest. All leaves are removed from the future tree to avoid dehydration. After moistening the roots of the seedling, they are wrapped in a damp cloth, and a layer of film is added on top. This way they will not dry out.

You can buy cherries in the fall. If you plan to plant it in the spring, the tree is buried. In the area where the snow lingers the longest, a furrow of medium depth (35-50 cm) is prepared. Its southern wall is made inclined (30-40 °). A seedling is placed in it, with its roots pointing down. Its crown should face south. This will protect the tree trunk from burns. Then the cherry is sprinkled with soil to the side shoots.

Having tamped well and abundantly watering the ground, the crown of the tree is covered with spruce branches. It will protect the branches from frost and rodents. From above, the shelter is covered with a thick (0.5 m) layer of snow. It is advisable to do this before frost. The trees are removed from the furrow only before being placed on a permanent site.

Landing time and scheme

Practicing spring and autumn planting of cherries. The optimal timing for it depends on the climate. In the southern regions, where winters are mild and warm, trees are planted in open ground in mid-autumn, when about a month remains before the onset of frost. In the temperate climate of the middle zone, the placement of cherries on the site begins earlier - in September. In Siberia and the Urals, summer residents use only spring planting. By winter, the trees will root well and will be able to survive the difficult period with minimal losses. Zoned crop varieties can withstand frosts down to -40 ° C. Spring planting is carried out in April while the buds on the plant are still dormant.

The layout of the trees is determined by the selected crop type. If the cherry is columnar, 1 m of free space is left between adjacent plants. A bushy variety of culture is planted at an interval of 2 m. The row spacing is made wide - at least 2.5 m. It is convenient to place the plants in a checkerboard pattern.

The distance between representatives of tree varieties is increased to 3-3.5 m.If you place them closer, the cherry will begin to stretch, such a planting will make it difficult to care for the cherry. It will be difficult to pick berries from a tall tree. Fruiting will also worsen: in the shade and in the middle of dense foliage, flowers will not be able to fully pollinate.

Advice

It is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular variety. For some of them, a tighter fit is preferable. Expanding, their crowns will be slightly intertwined.

Cherry, which combines the advantages of two crops at once, is planted even further - at a distance of 4-5 m. It cannot pollinate independently. To enjoy its sweet and large berries to your fullest, you need to place cherries and cherries nearby. 2-4 trees will be enough.

Steppe cherry also needs pollinators. Trees are selected for planting so that the varieties match each other. Self-fertile varieties of cherries (Rossoshanskaya black, Shokoladnitsa) are also popular with summer residents. Berries are tied on them, even if only one tree grows on the site. But in the presence of neighbors: Lyubskaya, Turgenevskaya, Vladimirskaya cherry - the yield will be higher.

How to plant cherries

Early planting is recommended. They begin to it when the snow melts, and the soil dries out a little and warms up, choosing a warm, dry and calm day for the procedure.Before placing in the ground, the roots of the seedling must be carefully inspected. Damaged areas are carefully trimmed to healthy tissue. Dried roots are reanimated by immersing them in water for 3-4 hours. You can use a solution of a drug that stimulates root growth.

The planting pit is prepared in advance, at least 2 weeks in advance, and preferably in the fall. It should be of medium depth (50-60 cm) and wide (80 cm). Shallow planting will cause the roots of the tree to overheat in summer and freeze in winter. But if you deepen the cherry too deeply, the development of its root system will be difficult. A support is installed in the center of the hole - a wooden stake 1 m high.

Digging a hole, the top layer of soil is set aside. It will need to be mixed with fertilizers:

• humus;
• wood ash;
• phosphorus-potassium preparations;
• complex formulations.

The resulting soil mixture is poured into the pit so that a mound forms around the support. Having dipped the lower part of the seedling into a mash made of soil or clay with manure, it is placed on top of the northern side of the stake and, carefully spreading the roots, covered with earth. It is necessary to ensure that the tree trunk is strictly perpendicular to the ground surface. If everything is done correctly, its root collar should remain above the soil - 4-5 cm above it.

The soil around the seedling is well compacted and forms a hole. Then the tree is watered abundantly, bringing about 3 buckets of water under it. It should be warm, room temperature. After watering, the soil will settle, and the root collar of the plant will be at the same level with it. The trunk is tied to a support so that it does not break from the wind. The surface of the hole is mulched. You can use for this:

• dry ground;
• humus;
• peat;
• sawdust.

The thickness of the mulch should be 3-5 cm. Its layer will not allow the soil crust to form and will keep the soil moist longer.

Alternative way

Cherry, bush, tree, columnar cherry - whatever type of culture is chosen, they are planted in the manner described above. The only exceptions are heavy dense loams and areas where the groundwater level is high. In order for the cherry to easily and quickly take root on them, you need to properly prepare the place for the tree.

The secret is simple: they place it not in a hole, but on a hill. First, a small hole about 25 cm deep is made in the ground. After adding fertilizers to the fertile soil, pour the nutrient substrate from above. It should fill the recess and form a mound 25-30 cm high.

The tree will grow in this pile of land. Otherwise, its fit is no different from the traditional method. The roots are straightened, sprinkled with earth, compacted, watered abundantly and mulched. Upon closer examination, it becomes clear that the depth of the planting pit in this case is still 50 cm, just 25 of them are above the soil surface, and 25 are below it.

Features of agricultural technology

Growing cherries on the site will not burden the gardener. Outdoor tree care includes standard activities:

• watering;
• top dressing;
• loosening the soil;
• weeding;
• pruning.

In the first days after being placed on a permanent site, the seedlings are watered often and abundantly. Already matured cherries and mature trees need moisture on hot days, when there has been no rain for a long time. The crop is drought-resistant, but regular watering will have a positive effect on the quantity and quality of the crop. The soil in the trunk circle is regularly loosened so that the roots of the plants receive enough oxygen.

In order for the harvest to be plentiful, the plantings need to be fed periodically. Do this twice a season using a diluted mullein. Wood ash can be mixed into the nutrient solution. Suitable for fertilizing and mineral formulations. In autumn, dry fertilizers are scattered around the trunk circle, embedding them in the soil by deep digging.

Cherry vegetation begins early. Therefore, in the spring in the open field, trees often suffer from frost.To prevent this from happening, you need to protect the soil at the base of the plant from premature heating by the sun's rays. Snow is raked to the trunk, and a layer of straw or sawdust is poured on top of it. If this is not done, the buds may open too early, before warmth is established.

It is easier to care for cherries, the crown of which is formed. Cropping will help here. The central and lateral branches are slightly shortened even in young trees. Cherries without pruning will not bring a good harvest. The tree is exposed to it already at the seedling stage. Placing it in the ground, remove the upper part of the trunk and skeletal shoots. After the procedure, the height of the seedling should be 60 cm. Next year, the side branches are shortened by ⅓ of the length. Until the cherry begins to bear fruit, its shoots will actively grow. When the first berries appear on them, their development will slow down.

Anti-aging pruning is important for cherries. They spend it in the spring. The crown of cherries is thinned out, removing all shoots older than 4 years old. The procedure is repeated every 5-6 years. Thickening of the crown leads to a decrease in the yield of the tree and crushing of the berries.

With proper care, in 2-3 years the former seedling will not be recognized. It grows well, and the first cherries will ripen on its branches. A young tree will begin to bear fruit fully at the 4th-5th year of life. And there is a wide variety of uses for the crop.

Cherries are good in fresh, dried, dried, soaked, pickled form, as part of compotes, preserves, jams, filling for pies, pancakes and dumplings. They make juice, wine, liqueurs, marmalade, sherbet, sauces. They add cherries to tea, smoothies, ice cream and even salads. You can endlessly experiment with juicy sweet and sour berries, each time discovering new facets of taste. And how beautiful the cherry orchard glorified by poets and writers is in the spring, when the branches of the trees are strewn with delicate flowers, and in the summer, when they bend under the weight of scarlet fruits!

There are several types

cherries

: common cherry (aka sour cherry), bird cherry (better known as

cherries

), sakura (small sawn cherry) - trees;

felt cherry

and steppe cherry - bushes.

Cherry Our story is dedicated to the common cherry (Prunus cerasus), so wonderfully suitable for aromatic and tasty compotes, jams, juices and pies. In this article, we will pay special attention to planting cherries, proper crown formation, subsequent care and receiving a long-awaited harvest as a reward.

Cherry harvest After you, following the peculiarities of your region, have chosen a variety that suits your climate, which are described in detail in my other article, we begin to prepare for planting cherries.

Cherry planting

It is better to plant cherries in spring. In the fall, buy seedlings and add them in for the winter. Spruce branches can serve as a shelter for them. When choosing a seedling, make sure that the bole is about 60 cm, at least 2-2.5 cm in diameter, with a length of skeletal main branches of about 60 cm (this is the size of a two-year-old tree cherry seedling). Cherry seedlings are planted when the soil warms up and the buds have not yet blossomed. Planting pits, as a rule, are prepared already in the fall.

Planting cherries.

• The soil should be of neutral acidity, sandy, sandy loam or loamy drained. (To determine its type will help the article How to find out the type of soil, and why it is needed).
• Cherries should not be planted in lowlands, where a damp, windy microclimate prevails. She loves lit places.
• Calcify the soil in advance (to reduce acidity if acidic). To do this, scatter about 400 g of lime or dolomite flour per 1 sq. m, dig up the soil to the depth of a shovel bayonet, mix with organic fertilizers. It can be manure or compost of about 15 kg per 1 sq. m. Mineral fertilizers are also added.

Important: Lime and manure are brought in at different timeslime soil before introduction of organic fertilizers into it!

When planting, take a distance between plants of about 3 m.For cross-pollinated varieties, consider pollination. To do this, you will have to plant a total of at least 4 varieties of cherries. They are placed in the garden according to the scheme 2.5 x 3 m with tall trees and 2.5 x 2 m with low ones. Self-pollinated varieties are an exception.

1. Dig a planting hole about 80 cm in diameter, about 50 cm deep, or 60 cm. When digging a hole, put the top layer of earth on one side, mix it with organic and mineral fertilizers, as well as wood ash (about).Important: Lime and nitrogen fertilizer in the planting pit do not contributeso as not to damage the roots!
2. Drive a peg into the center, place the planting mixture in a hole, pouring a cone around the peg so that it is more convenient to spread the roots over this pile, then lower the seedling there and spread its roots. It is necessary to ensure that the root collar is at the level of the soil, you can plant 4 centimeters higher, since then the earth will settle. This is done so that there is no decay of the seedling, because the cherry does not like deep planting.
3. Plant the tree trunk on the north side of the peg strictly vertically. Sprinkle earth over the roots and pat them down a little.
4. Next, make a hole near the seedling, pour a roller of earth around the edges, pour a bucket of water into the hole, and after pouring, mulch the soil of the trunk circle with humus or peat. Tie the seedling carefully to the peg.

Cherry care

A young tree of the first year after planting is watered, the soil is loosened and mulched with peat or humus

Fertilization

Fertilization is usually started when the cherry begins to bear fruit. The fertilizer rate is selected based on the condition of the plant and its age. Organic fertilizers are applied every few years, it can be rotted manure or compost. In the fall, feed the fruiting cherries with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and in the spring, apply nitrogen fertilizers (if there is a lack of nitrogen).

After flowering, the first top dressing is applied.During the growing season, as a rule, two dressings are carried out. One after flowering, the other two weeks after the first. Fertilizers are applied to young cherries in the near-trunk circle, and when the garden is already full, then throughout the site. If the acidity level is higher than normal, then the soil is limed with dolomite flour, lime. I scatter ashes from burning birch, plum branches.

Watering

After flowering, the trees are watered. This helps them nourish the fruit. Water so that the soil is not sour, but is moistened 40-45 cm deep.

After flowering trees are watered

Pruning

A feature of cherries is the rapid growth of shoots, due to which the crown thickens strongly and a large number of small branches are formed. If the crown is sparse, the fruits are larger, the bouquet branches live longer (it is on them that cherries are formed) and the foliage is healthier. Therefore, you need to cut the branches if the length of the shoots is more than 50 cm, by the way, this will help to avoid exposing the branches when the bouquet branches die off. The following publications will help you master the intricacies of cropping:

• Measure seven times, or the ABC of trimming
• Pruning trees and bushes: choosing tactics
• Spring pruning of trees, shrubs and flowers - a selection of videos
• Autumn pruning of trees and shrubs

Alternatively, you can take training at our Pruning Academy.

Crown The best option for cherries is a sparse tiered crown. Prune cherries in early spring three weeks before the buds swell.

Trim the cherries before the buds swell!Important: a spindle-shaped and flat crown is not suitable for cherries.

They begin to form a crown immediately after planting.

Pruning a cherry sapling after planting.

• Start forming the crown from the height of the trunk, there should be no branches and overgrowths below 40 cm in height.
• Above the trunk, about 7 branches form, which you leave as skeletal during pruning. Place the skeletal branches evenly along the trunk. The lower tier - three branches, the second - two, above - a single branch. In this case, it is necessary to cut out the central conductor above the single branch.The rest of the interfering branches are cut into a ring. As the tree matures, skeletal branches will be added; by the end of crown formation, an adult tree will have 10 of them.
• The branches growing inside the crown are cut out. Sometimes branches that grow in the wrong sector are directed to the center of the crown.

For more information about the forms of crowns, see the article. Crowns are different, or How a tree works.

Removal of root shoots

To prevent the tree from giving up its nutrients, remove the root shoots. It can be used for rootstocks.

Cherry propagation

The seed propagation method of cherries is rarely used. It is only good for growing the stock that you will be grafting onto. Most often, cuttings, grafting or propagation by root shoots are used for propagation.

Cuttings

• Harvest cuttings in mid-July, cut in the morning, before the heat, from those trees that you want to grow. Green shoots that grow upward on the south side of a tree or bush work well.
• Wet the cut cuttings with water, remove the upper part with underdeveloped leaves, then cut a cutting about 12 cm long from the remaining shoot, having 4 leaves or more.
• Plant the cutting vertically in a box with the planting mixture, deepen its end by 3 cm, and slightly pat the soil around the cutting. They are planted at a distance of about 7 cm from each other.
• Place the seedlings in a bright, warm room out of direct sunlight for best rooting. You can put supports on the box, and film on them.
• After rooting, the cuttings are hardened by removing the film.
• Cuttings overwinter in pits.
• In the spring, you can grow them in a permanent place or grow them.

Graft

Rootstocks are grown from seeds. For this, the seeds are selected, dried, before planting, they are stratified for about 150 days at a temperature of +1 to -7 ° C. You can sow in autumn or early spring until

frost

. 

The figure shows the methods of inoculation: 1) improved copulation; 2) splitting; 3) in the side cut; 4) for the bark.

Vaccination methods

Reproduction by root shoots

In early spring, dig out a root cutting from the mother tree at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the trunk. Dig in, tilting a little, the cutting and grow to the formation of young shoots, then you can transplant into the ground to a permanent place.

Reproduction by root shoots.

• What a gardener needs to know about vaccinations
• An easy way to graft trees and shrubs is to copulate
• Split grafting is a simple and versatile method
• How to properly prepare cuttings for scion and save them until spring

You can learn more about the varieties and types of cherries from my other article: Cherry varieties.

Cherry You may also be interested in the following publications:

• Cherries and their problems
• We will restore cherry orchards in the Northwest
• Secrets of Felt Cherry in the Northwest
• Garden cherry: 5 classic recipes for winter preparations
• Ferruginous cherry - sakura of the middle strip

Do cherries grow in your garden?

 

 

The Bessey cherry is a subspecies of the sand cherry that is native to the Americas. Currently, Besseya is grown in all regions of Russia. Due to its good resistance to drought and frost, and unpretentiousness to the climate, this cherry can grow in almost any territory.

   

Besseya is a low-growing shrub that reaches a height of no more than 1.8 meters. Young branches are located horizontally in relation to the ground, painted in a red-brown tint. Upon reaching the age of 7, their color begins to change to dark gray and they begin to creep along the ground. Landscape designers use such cherries to decorate the garden, build hedges from them and plant them as landscaping of sandy or rocky areas.

The flowering shrub begins at the end of May and lasts for 3 weeks. During this period, the shrub is completely showered with white or pale pink flowers. Cherry forms both male and female flowers.

Bessey's leaves are more reminiscent of willow than cherry. The shape is elongated, oblong, silver-green color. In mid-September, the leaves take on a purple hue.

Fruiting of cherries begins early, already in the second year after planting, the first harvest can be harvested. On average, 10 to 13 buckets of berries can be harvested from one shrub. Fruits reach full maturity in mid-August, and cherries of this sort do not fall off the branches, but begin to wither right on them. Besseya bears fruit for 13-15 years after planting.

Bessei berries are round, large, maroon color. The pulp is greenish with dark red veins. Compared to their wild relative, these fruits are very juicy and sweet. In their taste, they are similar to chokeberry, they are distinguished by the presence of light astringency.

 

   

Cherries of the Besseya variety are best planted in the spring (late April - early May, depending on the weather), so that the young shrub can grow stronger before the onset of cold weather. Closed root seedlings are more resilient and can be moved outdoors in early fall.

 

   

For planting cherries, elevated or sloping (to the south or southwest sides) areas, well lit by the sun, are best suited. It is best to choose places near buildings or fences, where a warmer microclimate is formed and more snow accumulates, which protects plants from freezing in harsh winters.

Damp lowlands and hollows with poor air aeration are not suitable for planting cherries. The soil level should be no closer than 1.5 m from the ground surface.

Cherry grows well on sod-podzolic, gray forest and chernozem soils, water and air permeable and rich in organic matter.

Acidic soils are not suitable for this culture. The acidity on them should be neutral or slightly alkaline (pH 7-7.5). Therefore, on heavy clay, poor sandy and peaty soils, it is necessary to choose all the "native" soil and replace it with a specially prepared soil mixture.

Since Besseya is self-fertile and does not need external pollination, it is recommended to plant several such shrubs nearby for better yield.

 

   

Pits for Bessei's seedlings are dug two weeks before planting. The width of the planting pit is 60-80, the depth is 50-60 cm. On poorly cultivated and clayey soils, the width and depth are increased.

When digging, the upper fertile layer is folded to one side, the lower to the other. Each pit is 2/3 of its volume filled with a soil mixture, which consists of a fertile layer, river sand, peat and organic matter (compost, rotted manure) in equal proportions. With this mixture, the pit is filled 3/4, add 3 matchboxes of potassium sulfate, 5 - superphosphate, 1 glass of dolomite flour or 2 liter cans of wood ash (to reduce acidity) and 1 glass of eggshell flour crushed to a consistency, since all stone fruits need calcium. All this is mixed well, tamped slightly and proceeded to planting.

The distance between the bushes in a row is 2 m, between the rows - 3 m. A stake is driven into the middle of each hole, about 1.5 m long.

It is better to plant together: one sets the seedling on the north side of the stake on a mound of the poured nutrient mixture and spreads the roots of the plant over it. The other shovels the remaining soil mixture and sprinkles it on the roots. In this case, the tree is shaken so that the voids between the roots are filled with fertile soil. In addition, the ground between the roots is constantly tamped with hands.

When the roots are completely covered with earth, it is well trampled down with soft shoes. It is important not to deepen the root collar of a young tree. Immediately after planting, it should be 5-7 cm above ground level. After compaction and settlement of loose soil, it will sink and remain at ground level.

Having finished the work, a low earthen roller is made around the circumference of the trunk circle so that the water does not immediately flow in different directions, and the seedling is well watered (2 buckets of water for each plant from a watering can with a rain nozzle).

To prevent the sapling from swaying in the wind, it is tied to the planting stake with twine or braid. The garter is made in the shape of a figure eight.

When planting in spring, the seedlings are immediately cut off. This is necessary to restore balance between the aboveground part of the plant and its root system. In this case, the branches in the middle part of the trunk are cut off by 1/3 of the length, lower by about a quarter, higher ones by a little less than half. After pruning, all branches should be at the same level, and the central conductor is 20-25 cm higher than them. An annual, which does not yet have a crown, is cut to a height of 70 cm.

 

   

For the first 4 years, there is an increased growth of the aboveground part of the bush. With normal care, annual growth during this period should be 30-40 cm. Therefore, plants need enhanced nutrition with organic matter and mineral fertilizers. The best organic fertilizer for cherries is rotted manure (compost and humus can also be used). It is brought in once every three years in early spring - in a bucket per 1 square meter of the trunk circle, embedded in the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm.

Of the mineral fertilizers, they also apply (per 1 square meter of the trunk circle in spring) once every 3-4 years: 30 g of carbamide or ammonium nitrate dissolved in 10 liters of water and in the fall for digging - 20 g of double superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate. You can use some ready-made mineral complexes for spring and autumn, such as "Kemira Universal" in the spring and "Fertika" in the fall.

Besseya's cherry begins fruiting, usually already in the 2nd year. Then the doses of fertilizers are increased by a third. Once every 6 years in the fall, soil is deoxidized with dolomite flour or chalk (2 kg per 6 square meters).

Besseya's cherry does not require frequent watering, but in the heat and dry years it should be watered at least twice a week and abundantly (depending on age, from 3 to 6 buckets for one plant).

 

   

Starting from the third year after planting, they begin to form the crown. Initial pruning is mainly about thinning. The branches are removed, directed towards the inside of the crown, growing at an acute angle, crossing, as well as dried and broken. Underdeveloped branches are removed and only strong ones are left.

8-11 branches are left in the crown. The lateral branches directed upwards are cut for branching so that they do not interfere with other branches. The central guide is shortened to the desired height (usually up to 3 m) so that the tree does not stretch up and it is easy to pick berries from it.

Crown formation must be completed in the 5th year after planting.

 

   

Bessey's cherry is not prone to the appearance of many diseases, but the likelihood of the following ailments still remains:

Coccomycosis - expressed in the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, a white or pinkish bloom begins to appear on the underside. Damage to fruits and stalks is also possible. As a fight against the disease, the shrub is treated with "Skor", "Delan" or "Topsin".

The first spraying is carried out immediately after flowering, then the procedure is repeated every 14 days. If there is a large amount of precipitation, it is necessary to process the cherries 1-2 times after harvest. As a preventive measure, young (non-fruiting) plants are sprayed every two weeks.

Monilial burn - a fungal disease that appears during flowering. Wet weather is especially dangerous. The pathogen enters the fruit shoots through the stamen of the flower, causing them to dry out. To combat the disease, the affected areas are cut and burned. Spraying the tree with "Horus", "Azocene" or "Baylon" at the beginning of flowering can serve as a preventive measure.

Anthracnose - the disease affects cherry fruits, matte, dark spots initially appear, on which a mucous plaque subsequently forms. As a preventive measure, during bud break, the bush is sprayed with 1% Brodsky liquid. During the period of bud formation, cherries are treated with fugicides. When such a disease appears, it is necessary to immediately remove the diseased fruits and destroy them.

It is necessary to carry out preventive measures that will help avoid Bessey's infection. In early spring (before the appearance of buds), both the plant itself and the near-stem circles are sprayed with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid. After harvesting, they are sprayed again with a 0.5% solution of copper oxychloride or a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid. You can use a 5% solution of copper sulfate for spraying.

 

   

Cherry tolerates winter frosts well, so you need to cover the trunks with something for the winter only in the first year after planting. Leaf litter and one layer of spruce branches on top are best suited. At the end of November, abundant water-charging irrigation is carried out.

 

   

If you bought cherry seedlings in late autumn or even after snow falls, we recommend that you do not rush to plant them in a permanent place, but keep them until spring by the following methods:

Digging into the soil The place for digging seedlings is chosen the highest, where stagnation of water is least possible. Dig a groove 50 cm deep from west to east. The south side is made inclined, the north - vertical.

The seedlings are laid out in the groove one at a time (in no case in a bundle), in an inclined position (at an angle of 45 degrees), with the top to the south. The roots and half of the stem are covered with loose soil and watered well so that the moist earth penetrates into all the voids between the roots; after that, the soil is poured again.

So that the roots of buried plants do not freeze, their location is covered with peat, humus or fertile soil. To protect against mice, spruce or juniper branches are placed between the seedlings and on top.

Snow pile storage For this, the seedlings are folded into a bunch so that the root collars are at the same level. Tied from top to bottom, gently pressing the branches. The roots are covered on all sides with a moist substrate - peat, sawdust, even better with moss - and wrapped in burlap. Then the entire bundle is wrapped in film, tied and buried deep in the snow, finding a place protected from the sun. So that the snow cover does not melt longer, sawdust or peat is poured on top.

We advise you to carefully consider the wintering of the label with the name of the variety. Before digging, they are wrapped in foil or plastic wrap and tied to the seedlings with twine that does not rot in the soil.

   

 

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Cherry is the most popular stone fruit crop found in gardens. This is explained by its unpretentiousness, uncomplicated further care of the tree, as well as the great demand for fruits both fresh and as preparations for the winter. But in order for the cherry to constantly bear fruit and not cause much trouble, it is necessary to plant a tree taking into account all the rules and recommendations.

When and under what conditions to plant cherries in spring

Planting cherries in the spring should be done before the tree enters the growing season.This will help the culture to minimize the stress received and take root in time before the shoots start growing.

Experts recommend planting cherries from late March to mid-April. This difference is due to the peculiarities of climatic conditions in certain regions of the country. The main requirement for the procedure is that the permissible temperature regime must be above 0 degrees, regardless of the time of day. You can use a shovel to check if the period is correct. If it enters the soil without any special effort, then this is a sign that a tree can be planted.

Timing plays an important role. Early planting threatens the tree with freezing in case of late frosts return, and late planting leads to long-term adaptation of the cherry, which has a bad effect on its immunity and further development.

Note! Experts believe that the optimum air temperature for planting a tree in spring is +5 degrees.

What are the pros and cons of planting cherries in spring

In the southern regions of the country, it is possible to plant cherries in the autumn, but in the event of early frosts, the risk of tree freezing increases. In regions with more severe climatic conditions, it is worth giving preference to spring, as the tree will have the opportunity to harden before the onset of winter. To make a final decision, you should familiarize yourself with the benefits of spring planting of cherries:

1. The tree has at least 6 months left to root, grow its crown and prepare for wintering.
2. In the process of growing the seedling, the gardener will be able to react in time to possible problems (pests, lack of moisture, diseases) and take the necessary measures.
3. The spring supply of moisture in the soil allows the root system to quickly adapt after planting and begin active growth.
4. It is possible to prepare the site in advance in the fall, so the soil will have time to sink by the spring, this will help to avoid deepening the root collar.

There are also some disadvantages of the spring procedure. At this time, not only the root of the seedling begins to actively develop, but also the aboveground part, so the tree will need a large supply of strength.

Another drawback is the busy schedule of the gardener during this period, so it is not always possible to pay due attention to each seedling.

Step-by-step instructions for planting cherries

Planting, like any other procedure, requires adherence to the rules and recommendations, which guarantees a positive result. Ignoring these requirements leads to various problems in the future, which will negatively affect the frost resistance of the tree and the duration of its rooting.

Sapling selection

Cherry is considered a frost-resistant crop, but when buying a seedling, it is necessary to select varieties that have proven themselves well directly in the conditions of the region. In addition, a cherry seedling must have the following qualities:

• not have damage to the bark throughout the trunk;
• age should not exceed 2 years;
• the height should be within 1.3-1.5 meters, any deviations from these indicators indicate improper care;
• the width of the main conductor must be within 1 cm;
• the root system should consist of 3-4 well-developed roots;
• should not contain any signs of the beginning of the growing season.

Note! If the bark on the trunk peels off in places without damaging its integrity, then this is a sign of improper storage of the seedling in winter, which led to freezing, so you should not purchase it.

Optimal location

Cherry is considered a heat-loving tree, so it prefers to grow in open, well-lit areas, but with protection from drafts. The place must be chosen immediately, since the culture is difficult to tolerate subsequent transplants.

Note! With a lack of sunlight, fruiting will be irregular, and the quality of the fruit will be much reduced.Therefore, it is not recommended to plant a crop near large spreading trees.

The occurrence of groundwater in the site intended for planting should be at a level of 2 m from the ground surface. Ignoring this recommendation will result in the tree suddenly dying after full growth for several years, as the water will wash away the soil near the roots.

Video: how to choose a seedling, place and plant correctly

Unwanted neighborhood

An important role is played by the choice of the right neighborhood for the cherry, since not all cultures have a beneficial effect on the development of the tree. Sometimes the reason for the lack of full growth of the seedling is incompatibility with neighbors.

Affects cherries adversely:

• peach;
• apricot;
• Walnut;
• pear;
• plum;
• cherry plum;
• black currant.

Neighborhood with a hawthorn is permissible, observing a distance between the trunks of 4 m, an apple tree and a gooseberry.

Note! Planting cherries and cherries next to each other is permissible, provided that they are each other's pollinators.

At what distance to plant

Cherries need their own individual space, therefore, when planting, it is necessary to maintain a distance between neighboring trees. Failure to comply with this rule will ultimately lead to the fact that the tree will elongate significantly, and the fruits will form especially at the top.

It is recommended to leave a distance of 3-3.5 m between the trunks, and 3.5-4 m between the rows in the garden, which guarantees the full development of the tree.

Required soil composition

Loamy and sandy loam soil with a neutral acidity level is suitable for growing crops. It is allowed to plant a tree in sandy soil, but with sufficient fertilizing annually.

Note! Clay soil is extremely contraindicated for cherries, so full growth and a stable harvest cannot be expected.

Planting pit preparation and depth

The site for the spring planting of cherries must be prepared in advance. It is best to do this even in the fall or at least 2 weeks before the supposed holding. Preparation involves digging the soil to the depth of a shovel and removing all the roots of perennial weeds.

The size of the landing recess should be between 80 cm wide and 40-50 cm deep. The walls of the recess should not taper towards the bottom, so they should be made vertical. Directly near the pit, it is necessary to drive in a wooden support, which will support the seedling in the future.

How to feed when planting

Once the cherry is planted, it will take a lot of strength for rooting and subsequent vegetation, so the tree needs to be provided with the necessary nutrition by adding fertilizer to the planting hole.

To do this, you will need to prepare a special mixture:

• 1 part of rotted manure;
• 1 piece of leafy land;
• 100 g superphosphate;
• 50 g of potassium sulfate;
• 2 parts top soil nutrient layer.

All components must be thoroughly mixed to a uniform composition and the resulting mixture must be filled with the planting hole by 2/3 of the total volume.

Note! Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not applied during planting, as this stimulates the growth of the aerial part to the detriment of the development of the root system of the tree.

Step-by-step disembarkation guide

Step-by-step instructions for planting cherries are as follows:

1. The day before planting the tree, it is necessary to soak the root of the seedling in water, which will stimulate biological processes.
2. Examine the roots of the cherry and trim off all damaged parts of the roots to healthy tissue with a secateurs.
3. Make a depression in the planting pit, based on the total volume of the root system.
4. Sprinkle with plenty of water and allow time for moisture to fully absorb.
5. Place the seedling in the center of the hole, but so that the root collar is 4 cm above the soil level.
6. Sprinkle the roots with earth, periodically shaking them so that the earth fills the voids.
7. Compact the soil at the base of the seedling.
8. Tie the trunk to the prepared support with a soft garden twine.
9. Along the perimeter of the trunk circle, make an earthen shaft 10 cm high.
10. Pour out 2 buckets of water and, after absorbing moisture, level the earthen shaft.
11. Shorten the main trunk at a height of 60-70 cm, and leave the side shoots 20 cm long.

Compliance with the stages of the procedure will exclude long-term adaptation of the tree.

Video: planting cherries in spring

Further care

A sufficient amount of moisture in the soil is necessary for the successful rooting of cherries. Therefore, in the absence of seasonal rains, it is necessary to carry out timely watering at the rate of 1 every 3 days, pouring out 2 buckets of water.

Note! Cherries do not tolerate overflows, so watering should be done only when necessary.

To exclude excessive evaporation of moisture under the influence of the spring sun, experts recommend mulching the near-trunk circle with peat or humus with a layer of 4 cm.Mulch should not be placed close to the trunk, as this contributes to bark heating, which significantly reduces the tree's immunity.

Additional feeding during this season should not be carried out, since the necessary nutrients were introduced during planting. If necessary, the crown should be sprayed against pests and possible diseases.

Landing rules in different regions

When planting cherries in the Volga region, it is necessary to carry out the procedure at the end of March - in the beginning of April, since an early drought in this region negatively affects the rooting of the tree.

Cherry should be planted in the spring in the middle zone and the Moscow region no earlier than mid-April, since the likelihood of late frosts in this region is very high, which will lead to the freezing of the seedling.

In Siberia and the Urals, spring planting of cherries is recommended not earlier than the beginning of May, while selecting winter-hardy crop varieties.

Typical landing errors

Often, gardeners make common mistakes that can harm the cherry and significantly affect its further development. To prevent this from happening, you should pay attention to them and try to prevent them in the future:

1. The absence of a pre-prepared planting pit leads to the deepening of the root collar of the tree, which significantly slows down its further growth.
2. Excessive fertilization during planting has a depressing effect on the cherry root system.
3. The purchase of a seedling older than 2 years of age leads to its long-term adaptation to a new place, which greatly reduces immunity.
4. Ignoring the timing of planting often causes the death of a tree.
5. For better pollination of cherries, it is necessary to plant two trees at the same time, but of different varieties.
6. You should not purchase planting material from dubious producers; it is better to give preference to nurseries or large orchards, which guarantees the quality of the seedlings.

Cherry is distinguished by its ease of care, but it requires compliance with all the conditions for its planting. The regularity of the fruiting of the tree depends on the correctness of the procedure. Ignoring the recommendations will lead to a long wait for the first harvest.

Video: how to plant cherries in spring