What do you need to plant roses in open ground?

Content

1 When to plant roses in spring: timing, time, temperature
2 How to plant roses in the garden in spring: features, requirements and step-by-step instructions
3 Features and planting schemes for various types of roses
4 Caring for roses after planting
5 Hello dear readers!
6 When is the best time to plant
7 Planting roses - choosing a place
8 Preparation of young seedlings
- 8.1 Packaging features
9 Planting roses
- 9.1 The nuances of planting seedlings of various types
- 9.2 You can also read on this topic:
10 How to prepare rose seedlings for planting
11 Planting roses in spring: general rules
12 Features of planting different types of roses in spring
13 A little about rose bushes
14 Several ways to successfully plant roses
15 How to care for a flowering bush?

Rose is a favorite and inexhaustible source of inspiration for writers and poets, as well as gardeners and summer residents who have joined them. Without denying the thesis that nature is more powerful than man and it is impossible to resist it, we are nevertheless of the opinion that it is quite possible to grow a luxurious rose bush in our summer cottage, taking into account the variety of the beauty, the timing of her planting, constructive care for her.

When to plant roses in spring: timing, time, temperature

It is well known that spring is the ideal time to plant a plant in the ground. Experience shows that it is during this fertile period that the seedling is guaranteed comprehensive acclimatization and great success in strengthening health and increasing immunity before winter. However, the beauty is that you can transfer it to the ground at any time.

It is advisable to note that planting a rose in spring is possible when the soil temperature confidently takes its position in the area + 10-12 ° C, that is, in Central Russia (for example, in the Moscow region) - this usually accounts for in the second half of April or even earlier... However, only a seedling with not yet blossoming buds and with not very long shoots can withstand tough competition. To solve the issue of protecting young shoots from frost, it would be quite reasonable to use a covering material or mulch to protect the plant, firstly, from sudden temperature fluctuations, secondly, preserving life-giving moisture in the soil and, thirdly, eradicating weeds.

It was absolutely precisely noticed that it is optimal to plant roses with ACS (open root system) on a garden bed in open ground in autumn... However, for the sake of fairness, it must be said that such an event is by no means forbidden to carry out also in spring and summer. This is evidenced by the fact that in the warmer regions of our country (in the south), autumn, as a rule, does not give up its positions and resists the invasions of cold weather until the first days of October, after which it is extremely necessarycover the roses for the winter... The meaning of this term for planting a rose in spring is simple: earlier manipulation will contribute to the premature growth of the vegetative mass, and with a fragile root system of roses, it may lead to the death of the plantation, therefore, it is possible and even necessary to plant roses with an open root system in spring.

As for the peculiarities of planting in various regions, in Central Russia (in the Moscow region), as well as in the northern regions (in Siberia and the Urals), it is better to plant roses in the spring, from the second half of April to the end of May, based on the message that the kidneys should not have time to swell. In these farming zones, if you approach it statistically, it is objectively difficult to protect yourself from ineffective rooting and loss of the bush in the winter season.

But in the summer there is complete confidence in such planting methods, especially for container roses with numerous roots that can resist any trouble during transplantation. It is quite obvious that roses planted in summer should above all be protected from the merciless rays of the sun and watered abundantly in the hot cycle of summer weather.

Video: features of planting rose seedlings in spring, summer and autumn

How to plant roses in the garden in spring: features, requirements and step-by-step instructions

It will not be difficult to successfully plant a rose in the spring if you follow all the rules and recommendations for planting it, but first you need to choose a viable seedling.

The choice of a seedling and how to prepare it for planting

During the selection of the required seedling in specialized nurseries or stores, one cannot but worry about the state of its root system, its vitality. Therefore, below is a list of criteria necessary for recognizing a high-quality rose seedling:

powerful, widely branched and developed root system;
at least 2 lignified shoots;
leaves evenly colored green;
the roots themselves are light yellow on the cut;
the roots have no flaws: no scratches, no soft, no dry areas;
clearly visible vaccination site.

Most often, rose seedlings are put up for sale either in closed containers or boxes (respectively, with a closed root system - ZKS), or with open roots. The difference is not fundamental and both formats are considered positive. The main thing is that there is substantial health on the face and there are no hidden microdefects of lesions by diseases and insects.

Immediately before planting a rose purchased from a store, you must act consistently:

Remove the packaging material from the plant, which is still very fragile, very carefully.
Try to straighten the shrunken roots and examine them carefully.
If, when examining the seedling, you find any signs of disease or damage at the roots, then you should immediately and carefully treat this area with an appropriate fungicide. Then trim dry roots down to a healthy core (it is usually white), this should be done a couple of centimeters. Extremely elongated roots should be cut off to 30-35 cm. Such thorough measures will help in the future to grow new young roots, and the remaining roots with a healthy core will improve the absorption of nutrients.
Cut off the shoots of seedlingsby removing broken and thin branches. Only the thickest and strongest branches with a length of 30-35 cm and cut to 2-7 buds should remain on the plant, depending on the species (see further / below).
Remove paraffin from rose shoots (if they are in it)which is used to keep it from drying out, but makes breathing difficult. To do this, it is worth using a wooden toothpick, with the help of which the wax layer is gently lifted and removed, and the bark begins to breathe.
Soak the root system. To replenish the liquid deficiency, immerse the roots of the plant (up to the neck) for 120-180 minutes in ordinary water or a solution of any root growth stimulator. Further, in order to negate the possibility of infection, it does not hurt to apply solution of copper sulfate or "Fundazol" (0.5 tablespoons per 5 liters of water) for 20 minutes.

Landing site (location on site)

As the experience of practicing gardeners confirms, a place for planting roses should be chosen quiet and calm, not shaded from the sun, but sheltered from the wind.That is why you should abandon the idea that the location of the bush surrounded by trees, right against a wall or near any building is comfortable for a rose.

However, for example, climbing varieties of roses know how to dispose of the north-western areas of the dacha allocated to them and grow and bloom beautifully in shady places.

What soil is needed

Roses love to grow on slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5), therefore, in the case of high acidity of the soil in the summer cottage, it is impossible to plant roses right away, first it is necessary to reduce its acidity.

By the way! A good solution to the problem would be to add a small amount of lime or dolomite flour to the ground.

When preparing the soil for planting roses in the spring, it will be promising to add rotted manure and wood ash when digging it up.

Important! It is categorically impossible to use fresh organic matter, since it is the cause of root rot and the death of seedlings.

To what depth to plant (preparation of a landing pit for planting)

Usually, planting pit width - average 50 cm... But the length is different, and the type of soil is "to blame" for this. In the case of using loamy soil, the depth of the pit appears as follows: 15 cm is added to the length of the roots.However, for example, with heavy moist clay soil containing about 35-45% pure clay, the pit is planned deeper (60-70 cm). A good solution would be to lay compost (you can also use humus mixed with 1-2 tablespoons of ash). It will be desirable to pour a pile of fertile soil on top.

Step-by-step guide to direct boarding

Here are the steps to take:

Dip the roots of previously prepared rose seedlings in a clay solution (do not forget to add fertilizer to it (dissolve 6 tablets of phosphorbacterin in 1 liter of water and add to 10 liters of talkers), then arrange the seedlings on a dais, not forgetting to put the roots in order.
Having covered a hole with a seedling with soil, deepen the vaccination site 4-7 cm (depending on the variety, see above)... To simply and reliably protect the root collar from temperature fluctuations, do not hesitate to tamp the soil near the seedling.
Water the seedling liberally same solutionthat remained after soaking it (or simply water), being careful not to touch the shoots in order to eliminate the risk of sunburn. If the watering turned out to be too abundant and the place of grafting of the seedling seemed to be, then it will not be superfluous (this must be done) to sprinkle it with earth.

Having finished planting roses, you need to proceed to pruning, leaving at least 2 buds on each shoot, which must be treated with garden varnish or a similar tool purchased in a specialized store. It is quite reasonable to do this in the spring, since the young shoots will most likely not survive in the fall and will freeze. A rounding manipulation in the process of spring planting of a rose should be its mulching. For this purpose, it is a good idea to use compost, humus or dry soil.

Important! Do not forget to cover the newly planted rose from the sun for 10-12 days.

Video: how to plant a rose in spring

Features and planting schemes for various types of roses

Despite all the variety of varieties of roses, the unifying moment for them is the procedure for preparing seedlings and the basic stages in their planting. If you want roses to pamper you with their many-sided beauty for a long time, you need to focus on some of the intricacies of caring for different types of garden queen. Given the fact of the peculiarities of different varieties, it is necessary to use this as a guide to change the rules for planting certain types of roses in the spring.

Climbing roses (or curly)

Vaccination site when planting climbing roses, it must be buried 8-10 cm.
Pruning climbing roses during planting is not required, it is only necessary to slightly update the cuts.
Remarkable subtlety: these roses are best planted at a distance 0.3 m from the supportso they will be able to braid her in the future.Walls, gratings, columns, arches, etc. should act as a support.
Distance between seedlings should not exceed 1-1.5 meters apart.

Floribunda

Planting floribunda roses differs in the depth of grafting - 3-8 cm.
It is preferable to leave on 3-4 buds with medium pruning.
Distance between floribunda bushes when planting should be kept at a level 0.3-0.4 meters , with an indent in the aisles in 0.6-0.9 meters.

English roses

The planting of English roses is characterized by the depth of grafting on the 5 cm.
At pruning on the escape you need to leave until 5-7 kidneys.
Rational distance does not pass between seedlings 1.2-2 m.

Park roses

Planting of park roses occurs when inoculation depth - again, like English roses, on 5 cm.
After trimming, you must leave at least 5, or better 7 kidneys on one shoot.
Distance between the seedlings - 1/2 the height of an adult bush, i.e. if it is mentioned that the bush reaches up to 1 m, then the next landing must be done at a distance 0.5 meters from the previous one.

Ground cover roses

The planting of ground cover roses is accompanied by a grafting depth of the same 5 cm.
After removing broken or severely damaged branches, it is not at all necessary to cut the shoots (not even recommended), only slightly update.
The width of the bush determines distance between seedlings and varies from 0.5 to 1.5 meters.

Hybrid tea roses

Adequate inoculation depth during planting hybrid tea roses - 3-5 cm.
Interesting fact: on one shoot, it is customary to save 2-3 well developed kidneys.
Distance between the bushes is adjusted in the area 0.3-0.5 m, and between the rows - it is better to make the order 0.6-0.9 m.

Caring for roses after planting

Well-established and proper care of roses after planting determines their subsequent development and flowering. An integral part of it is the performance of the following actions:

follow the rules for watering;
take care of the soil around the seedling;
prevent diseases;
apply fertilizers on time and on time;
regulate the formation of the bush.

Rose is madly in love with moisture. After planting, the seedling is recommended to be watered with settled water with a temperature in the range of + 20-30 C. This should be done almost every day, and some time later - once a week is enough. Watering roses is best done early in the morning or in the evening after sunset.

After watering a rose seedling in the spring, the question of the need for mulch application (you can use sawdust or compost without problems) in order to save the roots from erosion due to repeated watering, and also to prevent the bush from dehydrating.

The rose also loves to have the ground around the bush regularly loosened, and right up to the fall. With the onset of autumn, it is worth putting an end to the loosening of the earth, it is even recommended to tamp it a little.

To saturate the bush with the necessary nutrition for growth and flowering, it is justified by life practice introduction of weekly (only 4 times a month) dressing. So, for the first time, the rose must be fed with slurry in mid-June, and the final top dressing must be carried out no later than mid-August.

Here is a recipe for liquid fertilizer: 1 liter of mullein and 3 liters of water. Insist within a couple of weeks. Before using top dressing, 1 part of this mixture will not be a mistake to additionally dilute with 10 parts of water.

Important! Before fertilizing, it is extremely important to moisten the soil under the bush, and only then fertilize the rose at the rate of 3 liters per bush.

In addition, caring for roses is a must. focuses on disease control and prevention. To do this, it is worthwhile to monitor the condition of the bushes as often as possible and, at the initial signs of damage to any disease, use means tested for centuries. These funds may include:

plants with a very sharp and therefore repelling smell of all sorts of pests - marigolds, sage, ornamental onions;
special infusions, the effect of which is similar to the previous remedy (for example, onions, garlic, calendula, yarrow);
burning leaves affected by black spot;
dusting the bushes with wood ash somewhere from mid-summer;
control over the degree of planting density, sometimes leading to the appearance of diseases (the same fungal).

In order for young seedlings to provide you with stunning flowering, practicing summer residents recommend not to be afraid at the earliest stage of their existencedeprive the bush of all buds except one, especially distinguished by its size and color intensity.

Note! Until a bush with the desired shape is obtained, it is required to form a bush by pinching all lateral shoots after 4-5 leaves.

This is how novice summer residents and long-time practicing gardeners are arranged, when they want to achieve a solid and constantly renewing flowering of roses, they turn to tons of information and thousands of Internet views. And all this is done so that, within the framework of the correct planting and the totality of all aspects of watering, pruning and other activities, get out of the general format of ordinary amateurs and take key positions in the qualified growing of roses. Try on our recommendations for planting your country roses, and this will certainly become a trump card in your hands.

Video: planting roses in spring in open ground

Hello dear readers!

We continue talking about the rose - about this magical creation of nature.

From previous articles, we have learned what should be guided by when choosing a rose variety for your garden and how to choose high-quality seedlings.

Now another concern came to the fore - the right one. planting roses.

It's time for our beauty to grow up and start living in the garden, delighting her owner with a gentle fragrance.

But this will be on condition that the owner knows how to plant roses correctly and skillfully approaches this responsible mission.

After all planting roses - one of the most important events on which the fate of the rose bush depends.

When is the best time to plant

Roses can be planted in two periods: spring and autumn. In the conditions of the middle Russian strip, it is more reliable (according to experts) to plant in the spring.

But provided that the soil warms up to + 10-12 ° C and before bud break.

As a rule, this is mid-April to the second decade of May.

Root seedlings are ideally best taken in containers. Plant them only in the spring by transshipment of an earthen coma. For many varieties of roses, only spring planting is acceptable (ask about this nuance when buying shoots).

But planting roses in spring has its drawbacks. These roses may be stunted (compared to fall seedlings). This lag is about two weeks.

Also, such queens are more capricious and require more supervision and care.

It is better to plan the autumn planting of roses in mid-September-mid-October.

If the timing of the event is shifted, the roses will not have time to get stronger before the first frost. In this case, it is very important that the buds of the plants have not yet begun to develop.

10-12 days after the autumn planting, the roses form small young roots, which have time to gain strength before frost and feel great in a dry shelter until spring. In spring, young plants very quickly begin to form a strong, healthy bush.

If you do not have time with planting in the fall and do not want the seedlings to disappear, you can try to save them until spring by digging in.

To do this, shorten the stems and cut the roots to 30 cm. In this case, callus forms on the roots (callus that occurs at the site of the wound). Callus will develop healthy roots in the spring.

Planting roses - choosing a place

The rose loves warmth and sunlight (some of its varieties feel great in shady places), does not tolerate drafts and at the same time respects fresh air.

The ideal place for planting roses is a well-lit area (but without hitting the midday rays of the sun), sheltered from the northern cold winds.

It is best to choose a small, south-facing slope. The optimal level of occurrence of preferred waters is not less than 1.5-2 m.

Do not plant roses in low-lying areas (melt water stagnates there, and cold air accumulates). Also, do not plant young bushes in a place where roses have already grown. If this cannot be done, then replace the soil layer half a meter deep.

The designer is talking to you

How to plant roses? Traditionally, we all try to plant beautiful plants closer to home.

This is not a bad idea, as the house will serve as a shelter from the wind and hot sun and at the same time create a great backdrop for beautiful flowers.

Here you need to apply the knowledge of color (harmonious combination of colors).

A building or a fence of a light shade will effectively emphasize roses with rich, bright flowers. And if the wall of the house is dark, then it is better to use roses of light, pastel or white tones.

But planting roses should not be too close to the house - it will be difficult for you to care for the plants, and a close planting can harm the building. The optimal distance is 40-50 cm from the wall (fence).

Multi-flowered varieties of roses that bloom all summer are best planted in a conspicuous place (near a gazebo, benches, recreation areas, etc.).
Floribunda looks very impressive along the edge of lawns (it is better not to plant roses in the middle of the lawn, since lawn care has a different specifics). Also, these species are good for creating hedges.
Tea and tea hybrid species are ideal for flower beds (it is better to make them small in size from 3-5 bushes of the same variety).
Climbing varieties. Planting seedlings of climbing roses will give an amazing look to the gazebo, veranda, any arch, fence, wall of the house. Space for these varieties can also be given along the edges of the lawns.
Wild roses will decorate the border of the site and will be very useful there: thorny shoots will protect the territory from the penetration of uninvited animals and will additionally attract birds that are very fond of the fruits of wild shrubs.

If you plan to arrange dense planting of roses, then Crocuses, Primrose, Aubrieta, Rezukha, Violet, Ageratum and Alpine phlox will be ideal neighbors for rose bushes.

Hybrid tea varieties are suitable for close-up viewing, and Floribunda to create bright, attractive spots from afar.

Perfect soil

Roses love fertile, moisture and air permeable loams with an acid reaction pH 5.5-6.5.

If the soil is too oxidized, it must be calcified. But do not get carried away - on alkaline soil, roses can develop leaf chlorosis.

You can determine the acidity of the soil using a litmus test. Mix some soil with water and dip the litmus into it. With acidic soil, the piece of paper will turn red, if the soil is alkaline, it will take on a blue tint.

Light sandy and heavy clay lands are not suitable for beauties. Such soils can be adjusted: add sand (3 parts), turf, humus and compost (1 part each) to the loamy soil.

In clayey - coarse sand (6 parts), leafy, soddy soil, compost and humus (1 part each).

In sandstones - sod land and finely ground clay (2 parts each), compost or humus (1 part).

The land must be checked and prepared in advance (for spring planting of roses from autumn, for autumn, 30-35 days before planting seedlings).

This period is sufficient for the soil components to mix well and the earth to settle.

The soil must be carefully dug up to a depth of 60 cm.

Preparing pits for planting

In the place intended for planting rose bushes, we dig holes 60x60 cm in size, 70 cm deep. We lay the upper part of the earth (fertile layer) on the edge of the holes.

At the bottom of each hole, we lay a drainage layer of small pebbles, broken brick and gravel.

On top of the drainage, we fill in a layer of 40 cm of a previously prepared mixture of soil and fertilizers, and on top we sprinkle the pits with a fertile layer.

Well mix:

Garden land 2 buckets.
Bone meal 2 cups.
Superphosphate 1-2 handfuls.
Dolomite flour 1-2 cups.
Clay crushed to powder 1 bucket.
Humus, peat, fine sand 1 bucket each.

We prepare holes for planting roses 10-14 days before the seedlings appear there. The earth will have time to settle at this time, otherwise the rose may go deep into the soil.

The distance between the plant pits depends on the type of rose and the purpose of the planting itself:

Between spray: 150-300 cm.
Low and spreading: 40-60 cm.
Curly (weak growing: 200 cm, strong growing: 300-500 cm).
Flowerbed (weakly growing: 30-40 cm, strongly growing: 40-60 cm).
Creeping ground (weak growing: 40-60 cm, strong growing: 100 cm).

Preparation of young seedlings

◊ Shoots. We need to cut off all damaged and dried shoots under the first bud.

Healthy shoots must also be cut, but (for stronger seedlings 5 buds are left, for seedlings of medium strength and quality 3 buds, with a weakened state of the seedling, shoots should be shortened almost to the full length, leaving 3 mm at the base).

When planting roses in spring, we save:

Floribunda: 3-4 buds.
Hybrid tea species: 2-3 buds.
Low polyanthus: 2-3 buds.
Climbing Rambler groups: shoots are cut to 35 cm.
Tall: can be shortened by 10-15 cm for early flowering.
Miniature and park varieties are not pruned, the shoots only need to be slightly refreshed (pruned tops).

◊ Roots. We examine the roots: cut the crumpled ones, dive the good ones 1-2 cm from the tip. Then we dip the roots into a solution of water and "Kornevin", holding them there for several hours.

Before planting roses, the roots of the plant are cut to 20-25 cm, the damaged ones are removed before the beginning of healthy tissue.

The day before planting the roses, we place them for 11-12 hours in a container with water. Then we moisten the roots with a mixture of clay and mullein (proportion 3x1), adding a tablet of heteroauxin to a bucket of solution (pre-dissolve the tablet in water).

Packaging features

Rose seedlings can be found in completely different packages. The features of the form in which the young rose was sold must be taken into account when preparing the plant for planting:

♦ Polyethylene cylinders. Baltic growers like to pack rose seedlings in plastic cylinders without a bottom.

Plants are in such packaging from the very moment of grafting, so they can be easily planted without destroying the earth coma. But before planting, carefully examine the roots.

If the roots are light, directed outward, the plant can be planted immediately. And if there are few light roots, they are tangled - in this case, gently straighten the roots, cut dry ones. It is imperative to ensure that the roots are directed outward and downward. If the seedlings need to be stored in cylinders, store them in a pot, having previously unpacked.

♦ Saplings grown on light peat bog in greenhouses. Based on the experience of gardeners, such seedlings need to be planted by breaking the earthen ball (by the way, contrary to many literary instructions).

As a rule, the pots of such seedlings are small, and the roots tightly entangle the ground, forming a kind of "felt". The roots cannot get out of such a coma on their own, roses do not take root in a new place for a long time and often die.

Be sure to remove the seedling from the pot before planting and soak it in water so that all the air comes out of the earthy ball. Then use a sharp knife to remove the outer layer of the roots. Wash the roots of the seedling from the soil, but do not touch them at the base. Then straighten the roots and plant the rose.

♦ Net packing. The manufacturer says that seedlings in a mesh container can be planted directly in it. But according to the experience of gardeners, planting roses in a net very often gives poor results. Saplings take root poorly.

Therefore, try to partially break the integrity of the net before planting and straighten out the surface roots (by cutting off rotten or dry ones).

Planting roses

When planting seedlings, carefully monitor the grafting site (this is the part of the root from where the shoots begin to grow). The grafting should be 3-5 cm below the surface of the soil.

Thus, the rose will receive protection from the heat of the sun and winter cold. And from the grafting, additional shoots will not develop - they inhibit the growth and development of the main ones.

If the soil shrinks, add soil mixture so that holes do not form, otherwise the roots may begin to rot from excess moisture.

Landing methods. There are two known methods of planting roses that have worked well:

◊ Dry method. This method is suitable for areas with high humidity. At the bottom of the prepared hole, we make a small earthen roller - on it we will lay out the roots of the flower.

It is better to plant a rose together. One holds the bush and carefully places it in the hole. The second straightens the roots and carefully covers them with soil mixture, while compacting the plant with his hands.

Then the rose bush is watered abundantly with water (for each bush 10 liters of water). After 2-3 days, the soil is loosened and spud up to a height of 10 cm (to the level of shoots cut).

If this is not done, the shoots of the rose may dry out (especially in hot weather).

Loss of moisture often leads to the death of the rose. To avoid this, create additional shelter for your beauty in the form of mounds of wet moss or raw sawdust. If these mounds are too compacted, loosen them slightly.

If your rose has taken root, after 10-15 days it will have the first young shoots. As soon as you notice them, the plant can be undone. This procedure is best done in a cloudy season.

◊ Wet method. This planting of roses is best suited for regions where the climate is arid. A bucket of water is poured into the prepared pit (dissolve a tablet of heteroauxin in it in advance, you can also add a solution of Sodium Humate of the color of strong tea).

One person can cope with such an operation. With one hand, lower the seedling directly into the water, with the other hand fill the hole with a water-soil mixture.

The mixture of earth and water perfectly fills the entire space between the roots without the formation of voids.

When planting, you need to periodically shake the bush and carefully compact the earth. No watering required.

If the soil subsides, the next day slightly raise the seedling, add earth and spud it 10-15 cm. After planting, shade the young rose for 10-12 days.

The nuances of planting seedlings of various types

♦ Park. To plant roses of this type of pit, you need to do a little more: 90x90 cm, 70 cm deep.It is important that voids do not form in the row of plantings, if this happens, fill the empty spaces with annual flowers.

Planting density for park roses is also important so that the plants do not give many root shoots, which must then be removed.

♦ Teahouses and Floribunda. For these beauties, the best planting time is spring. For tea roses, you will need a support for climbing shoots.

Pits for plants of these types can be made a little smaller: 50x50 cm with a distance of about 50 cm.

♦ Tea-hybrid. Of all types of roses, hybrid tea are the most picky about heat, so you need to plant such roses in May (subject to the onset of stable warm weather).

The planting method is better for her "wet". Do not let these roses bloom for a couple of weeks (cut the first 4-6 buds for this).

♦ Climbing. These types of roses can be planted in spring and autumn. When planting, immerse the inoculation site in the ground a little deeper than usual (by 10-12 cm).

This species needs support (the distance between the support and the stem of the rose is no more than 50 cm) and shelter for the winter.

Before planting roses, the lashes need to be cut to a height of 30-35 cm and the roots should be shortened.

When planting, climbing roses are slightly tilted towards the support, and the roots are directed away from the support.

♦ Ground blooms. For such roses, it is very important that there are no weeds in their area. It is best to sprinkle the soil with bark or sawdust after getting rid of weeds.

After all, the root system of soil blooms completely covers the entire earth with very flexible and prickly shoots.

Well, dear readers, one of the most difficult and important stages has been completed. Our roses are planted in the garden.

The further fate of gentle beauties will completely depend on your attention and competent care. We will talk about proper care and maintenance of our rose garden, as well as ways of propagation of roses, about possible diseases and pests - we will talk in the next article.

See you soon, dear readers!

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Tags: roses

The rose is known to everyone as an extremely capricious garden "inhabitant". But the beauty of this plant is so mesmerizing that every season thousands of summer residents think about how to plant a rose. We will tell you about all the intricacies of this process.

Specialists of ALC "Agrarian Industrial House" recommend planting roses in spring only after the soil temperature reaches 10-12 ° C. In the middle lane, this time usually falls in mid-April - late May. It is advisable to choose seedlings with not yet blossoming buds or with very short shoots. As for the planting site, for most types of roses, the most optimal are sunny places on the southeastern and southern sides of the site.

How to prepare rose seedlings for planting

So, the seedlings of the varieties you have chosen have been bought, the place for the roses has been chosen, what next? Take the following important steps before boarding.

Unpack the seedling. Remove the protective material carefully, being careful not to damage the plant. Planting a seedling together with a packing net is only possible if provided by the manufacturer (biodegradable packing material).

Spread out the roots and examine them carefully. If you find signs of disease, treat the seedling with any biofungicide. Cut off damaged, dry roots; in healthy ones, update the cuts, cutting them 1-2 cm so that a healthy white core is visible. Subsequently, this will allow the plant to better absorb nutrients. Shorten too long roots to 30-35 cm.

Trim the shoots if necessary. Planting roses in spring in open ground also involves pruning the shoots of the seedling. If the branches are tied, release them by gently removing the elastic. Examine the shoots, remove the broken ones and the thinnest ones. Cut very long branches to a height of 30-35 cm. Leave only the strongest branches on the bush and cut them to 2-7 buds, depending on the species (see below).

Cut the shoot at an angle of 45 degrees above the outer bud (it is directed away from the center of the seedling), stepping back from it 0.5 cm.If the seedlings have been warm for too long and they have sprouted light, weak and thin shoots, remove them.

If the stems are covered with paraffin (it is used to retain moisture), before planting, clean the shoots with a wooden toothpick so that the plant can "breathe more freely". Draw a longitudinal line - the wax will begin to "lag" behind the bark of the seedling. Gently pick up the wax layer with a toothpick, lifting it up.

Some sources advise removing the wax from the seedling with a piece of soft cloth. In practice, this is quite difficult to do, so we recommend using a toothpick.

Opinions differ as to whether it is necessary to remove wax from seedlings or not. Some say that this is an extra hassle and the wax will crack itself when the shoots begin to grow. Others argue that the wax inhibits bud germination and, in addition, melts in the sun and burns germinating buds. How to proceed is up to you. However, if you live in the southern region or spring this year has turned out to be warm and sunny, we recommend that you clean the shoots before planting.

Soak the roots of the seedlings. To compensate for the lack of moisture, immerse the roots of the seedlings (up to the root collar) for 2-3 hours in water or in a solution of any growth stimulator (prepare the drug in accordance with the instructions).

Then, for disinfection, immerse the roots of the seedlings for 20 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate or Fundazol (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Planting roses in spring: general rules

The place for planting roses should be chosen on the basis that this whimsical plant needs good lighting and protection from the wind. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant a rose under a tree, near a wall or in a lowland, since such conditions contribute to the development of diseases and decay of bushes.

If roses previously grew on the site selected for planting, then the soil layer must be replaced with a new one (to a depth of ≈50 cm).

The level of acidity of the soil is also important - roses prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5). If the land on your site does not meet these indicators, the pH level can be adjusted.

Pits for planting rose seedlings are made 40-60 cm wide. If the soil is loamy, the depth of the pit is calculated as follows: add 15 cm to the length of the roots. On heavy clay soil, the pit is made deeper (60-70 cm). At the bottom of the pit, pour compost or humus mixed with 1-2 tbsp. ash, and on top - a mound from the upper fertile soil layer.

Dip the roots of the prepared seedlings in a mixture of clay talker with fertilizer (dissolve 3 tablets of phosphorbacterin in 500 ml of water and add 9.5 liters of talker), then place the seedling on a mound, straightening the roots.

Then fill the pit with the seedling with earth, deepening the grafting site by 3-8 cm. To protect the root collar from temperature changes, carefully compact the earth around the plant.

To stimulate growth, a Heteroauxin tablet can be placed in the planting pit (to a depth of 5-10 cm), and several Glyocladin tablets can be used to protect the roots from rot.

Water the planted rose abundantly. You can use the same solution that remained after soaking the seedling. Try not to get on the shoots, otherwise the plant risks getting sunburn. If, after abundant watering, the vaccination site is exposed, cover it with earth. The final stage is mulching the planting with compost, humus or dry soil. Then the planted rose should be shaded for 10-12 days.

Features of planting different types of roses in spring

The process of preparing seedlings and the basic steps in planting are the same for most types of roses. But there are some features that you need to know in order for your roses to grow healthy and decorate the garden for many years.