How to grow a monster at home?

Botanical description

Monstera is a large evergreen plant of the Aroid family. The natural habitat is Central, South America, found in Asia. In translation, the name of the plant means "bizarre". This is a vine with a thick climbing stem, which is covered with air roots.

Plant height reaches 5 m. Large leaf plates are attached to long petioles. Young leaves are whole, then holes, cuts appear on them, they become dissected into several lobes. The inflorescence is a cob surrounded by a veil.

Is it possible to keep the monster at home

How a monstera photo blooms at home

Why you can: useful properties and signs

• Thanks to its large leaves, the monstera plant actively produces oxygen, evaporates moisture, thereby improving the indoor microclimate.
• Monstera flower actively purifies the air (absorbs electromagnetic radiation, formaldehyde vapor).
• Monstera is recommended to be placed in offices, classrooms, libraries. This is due to the fact that the energy of the plant has a beneficial effect on the nervous system: it puts in order the thoughts, harmonizes the state of mind, helps to concentrate, and contributes to making informed decisions.
• Also, the plant has a tonic effect on the body.

Why not

The monster should not be placed in the sleeping room, since the process of photosynthesis occurs at night (oxygen is actively absorbed, which is unfavorable for a sleeping person).

How to care for a monster at home

How to care for a monster at home photo

The plant is unpretentious in care, it is enough just to create optimal conditions for its development.

Where to put in the apartment

• Monstera does not like being moved from place to place, so it is advisable to immediately find a suitable location.
• Direct sunlight will burn the leaves.
• It grows poorly in deep shade, it may die.
• Provide sufficiently bright, but diffused lighting, only light shading is possible.

Air temperature

The plant is comfortable with a temperature range of 16-24 ° C, and the liana tolerates sudden changes quite easily. If the temperature is low, the growth rate slows down.

Watering and spraying

Water vigorously, regularly during the warmer months. With the onset of cold weather, it should be watered sparingly, avoiding overdrying the earthen coma.

Spray the monster regularly. Periodically wipe the sheet plates with a damp soft cloth or sponge.

Monstera in winter

• It is desirable for the plant to reduce the temperature of the content to 14-18 ° C.
• In this case, drafts (open vents) are unacceptable.
• We reduce watering so that the soil has time to dry out a little.
• We stop spraying, it is better to place a container with wet moss or a humidifier next to it, and wipe the leaves with a damp sponge.
• Top dressing is stopped.

Top dressing

In the period from March to August, every 2 weeks apply complex mineral fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants. Adult vines can be fed with organic matter: 1 time per season, cover the surface of the soil with humus or pour infusion of fermented mullein at a concentration of 1:20.

What to do with aerial roots

Aerial roots are involved in additional nutrition and hydration. They don't look very attractive. They should be collected, tied to the trunk, wrapped in moss. Moss the moss when watering - this will only benefit the vine.

Video about the monster and caring for her:

How to prune and transplant a monster

With age, the vine stretches, the leaves from the lower part of the trunk fall off. The plant needs rejuvenation. It is necessary to completely cut off the upper part in the spring, leaving about 30 cm. After a while, young shoots will appear. The top can be used for propagation: put it in water, and when the roots grow (it is desirable that they completely fill the container), plant it in the soil.

• Transplant young plants (up to the age of 4 years) annually, then transplantation is required about 1 time in 2-3 years.
• Increase the size of the pot each time you transplant. The root system is powerful and requires space. Choose a deep, wide pot.
• The thickness of the drainage layer should be 1/3 of the container.

For planting, you can use a universal substrate, a mixture for palm trees, or prepare a soil mixture: turf and humus soil, peat, sand in equal proportions.

Why do monstera turn yellow, dry and fall leaves

Improper care negatively affects the appearance of the plant:

• Leaves dry out from lack of moisture or nutrients.
• If the soil is waterlogged, the leaves begin to turn yellow, the roots rot - an emergency transplant is necessary.
• The trunk of a young plant is bare, the growth rate slows down - the lighting is insufficient.
• The edges of the leaf plates turn brown - the air is dry or the root system is cramped in the pot.
• When exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves are covered with yellow spots.
• The leaf plates remain intact - the plant does not have enough light or nutrients.
• The leaves turn yellow from the elevated air temperature, fall off (do not confuse with the natural gradual fall of leaves from the lower part of the trunk).

Why do monstera leaves turn black

Monstera turns black due to stagnant moisture in the pot, which can be caused by insufficient drainage and / or over-frequent, heavy watering. The root system begins to rot, the rot spreads to the entire plant.

An emergency transplant with soil replacement and fungicide treatment is required. Free the roots of the plant from the soil, cut off the rotten ones, and plant in a disinfected pot with fresh soil. Be sure to add a drainage layer of small stones to one third of the pot. After transplanting, pour a solution of phytosporin and treat the leaves with it.

Pests

1. Thrips (the surface of the leaf plates is covered with white specks, and small insects can be found on the reverse side);
2. Scabbard (leaf plates dry, fall off, brownish plaques can be found on their surface - actually the pests themselves);
3. Spider mite (leaves become lethargic, small cobwebs can be found on their surface);
4. Mealybug (leaves, young shoots bend, dry, fall off).

First of all, it is necessary to remove pests mechanically. Moisten a cotton pad or sponge with soapy water, wipe the leaves. Then apply an insecticide treatment.

How to propagate a monster at home

How does monstera breed? This plant is sometimes propagated by seeds, but mostly vegetatively.

Growing monstera from seeds

Monstera seeds photo

• To plant seeds, fill the container with light, water and breathable soil.
• Plant the seeds shallowly, at a distance of 4-5 cm, moisten the crops, cover with transparent glass or foil.
• Maintain the air temperature at 25 ° C.
• Ventilate the greenhouse regularly, moisten the soil.
• Seedlings will appear in about a month.

Seed Monstera Seedling Photo

• Plant the grown seedlings in separate pots.
• At first, there will be only juvenile non-dissected leaves, after 5-8 months of growth, real dissected leaf plates will appear.

Propagation of monstera by cuttings

How to cut a monstera stalk photo

• Can be propagated by apical and stem cuttings.
• Do this in the springtime.
• The stalk should contain one node and at least one mature leaf, preferably an aerial root rudiment.
• Make the upper cut above the kidney, it should be straight, the lower one - oblique.
• Root in soil. Submerge the assembly halfway into the ground.
• Cover with a jar or plastic bottle and pour through a drip tray.
• When young shoots appear, they can be transplanted separately.

Propagation by lateral processes and division of the rhizome

Reproduction of monstera by lateral processes

Lateral shoots appear at the bottom of the stem - root them in the spring. The shoot must have aerial roots and a leaf. They can be planted immediately in separate pots.

During the transplantation of mature plants, division of the rhizome can be carried out. Each section should contain a part of the rhizome, a full-fledged leaf rosette or a growth bud. Place in separate containers.

Types of monstera with photos and names

Monstera adansonii

Monstera Adansoni monstera adansonii variety swiss cheese vine photo

It can reach a height of about 8 m. The length of the leaf plate is 20-55 cm, the width is 15-40 cm. They are ovoid in shape, covered with holes. Flowering: ear surrounded by a yellowish veil.

Monstera borsigiana

Monstera Borziga variegated Monstera deliciosa borsigiana Variegated photo

The cystic plates are heart-shaped, evenly incised, colored dark green.

Monstera punctured or full of holes Monstera pertusa

Monstera punched or full of holes Monstera pertusa photo

The length of the sheet plates can reach 1 m, they are dotted with holes of various shapes.

Monstera delicacy or attractive Monstera deliciosa

Monstera delicacy or attractive Monstera deliciosa photo

The leaf plates are heart-shaped, pinnately dissected, covered with holes. A feature is that this species bears fruit. After flowering, a soft berry appears that tastes like pineapple. Fruit ripening lasts about 10 months (at home).

Monstera oblique or unequal Monstera Obliqua

Monstera oblique or unequal Monstera Obliqua photo

Climbing vine. Ellipsoidal leaf plates are covered with large oblong holes, the edges are solid. The halves of the leaf are slightly different in size: one is larger than the other, which is why the name is obtained.

Monstera karvinskyi

Monstera Karvinsky Monstera karvinskyi photo

Plant height reaches 3 m. Young leaves are whole, then cut into blades, holes appear on them.

Monstera pointed Monstera acuminata

Monstera pointed Monstera acuminata photo

The leaf plates are solid with pointed tops; over time, holes appear in them.

Despite its bizarre and, to some extent, even frightening appearance, this unusual visitor from the tropical zone belongs to rather unpretentious plants. It is not difficult to grow a monster at home, and even novice growers can handle it.

Origin and distribution

The plant belongs to the genus Monstera of the Aroid family. About 50 species of this plant are known, but the most widespread is the attractive monstera, which is also called the gourmet monster. It is she who can most often be found in our houses, apartments, cultural institutions and office premises.

Monstera has an unusual appearance

The rainforests of Central America are home to this magnificent large liana with a thickened stem and airy adventitious roots. In the wild, it grows in the hot and humid tropics of Mexico, Panama, Guatemala and Costa Rica.

Gradually, this vine spread to Asia and Australia, where it was cultivated for the sake of obtaining edible fruits. In temperate regions, monstera is grown as an indoor ornamental deciduous plant indoors, in greenhouses, greenhouses and conservatories.

Description

When growing a monster indoors, you should remember about the impressive size of this plant. An adult liana in a house or apartment can quickly grow to the ceiling and take up a significant amount of space in width.

The height of this monstera is more than 10 meters.

Therefore, if you decide to grow this exotic beauty at home, you will not be able to get by with a small corner on the windowsill. For the monstera, you will need to allocate much more free space than for ordinary indoor plants with a compact crown. Evergreen pets live up to 10 years and even more.

Monstera grows in an original and interesting way. First, new leaves appear on the stem, and the vine grows several of them every year. When the leaves reach an impressive size, they stop growing, and the plant releases new aerial roots. After that, new leaves begin to bloom, and then again aerial roots. In adult plants, the growth of lateral shoots is also observed.

Leaves

Monstera leaves are petiolate, rounded, very large. Often they have a diameter of 70-90 cm, and under favorable conditions in the wild, they can reach a meter in size. The leaves of a domestic monstera do not grow so huge, they have a smaller diameter, on average, 50-60 cm.

Leathery, shiny leaves of a dark green color are located on long petioles that encircle the stem at their base. In a young plant, the first leaves are relatively small. They have an oval-heart-shaped shape and a solid sheet plate. Having gained strength, the monstera already forms large leaves with neat wide cuts throughout the entire area of ​​the leaf plate.

Monstera leaves

Such leaves first appear in the form of a tube tapering upward, which, having reached sufficient size, in a short time unfolds into a formed leaf plate with large cuts. After that, the leaves grow a little more in size, thicken and acquire a slight sheen.

With the onset of maturity, the foliage of the monstera becomes pinnately dissected, with clearly visible segments and stripes. The cut openwork leaves give the plant a distinctive, original and so recognizable appearance, for which it is valued.

The variegated varieties of monstera gourmet look even more unusual and decorative. They are attractive not only for the rugged shape of the leaves, but also for the originality of their color. White stripes, spots and streaks on a dark green background look very impressive.

It should be remembered: in order to maintain an intense and contrasting color, the variegated forms of this luxurious liana need bright, but diffused sunlight. If natural light is not enough, the leaves of monstera will turn green, losing the variegation, which is considered their "highlight".

Flowers and fruits

Monstera is an ornamental deciduous plant... Nevertheless, with the creation of favorable conditions and proper care, it is capable of blooming. In order for the vine to bloom indoors, it needs to create growing conditions close to those that it has in its homeland, in the tropical rainforests of Central America.

Monstera flower

Monstera home blooms with small flowers, collected in a cylindrical thick inflorescence. It is quite large, and reaches a length of 20-25 cm. In its shape, the inflorescence looks like an ear of corn, covered with a kind of white blanket with a cream shade.

After a while, a fruit is formed from the inflorescence, which is a berry 20-30 cm long with a thick skin and juicy pulp. It is curious that the monstera fruit not only smells fragrant, but is also edible. Its pleasant taste is reminiscent of several tropical fruits at the same time: pineapple, banana and mango.

Reproduction

This evergreen tropical vine reproduces in several ways:

• seeds
• lateral offspring
• stem cuttings
• apical cuttings

Cuttings

The best time for vegetative propagation of a plant is spring, from March to June. It is better to carry out it at an elevated temperature of up to 22-25 degrees. To do this, you need to cut off the top of the shoot with a sharp knife to get cuttings. The stem is divided into parts so that each of the segments has one leaf or a dormant bud.

Monstera cuttings

Places of cuts must be sprinkled with crushed coal, allowed to dry and planted in separate pots, and then covered with foil or glass. In pots intended for planting cuttings, it is imperative to make good drainage.

To do this, a layer of coarse gravel, broken shards, bricks, pebbles or expanded clay are placed on the bottom. Then a layer of peat or humus earth is poured about 2 cm thick, and on top is a layer of coarse sand about 2-3 cm, in which the cuttings are planted.

In a warm place, they take root within one and a half to two months. At the same time, cuttings that have at least one aerial root can best take root.

In order for the rooting of new plants to be more successful, a cutting is obtained as follows:

This operation stimulates root growth at the incision site. When the roots are formed, the top of the shoot is cut off, and the result is a ready-made young plant that can be planted in a permanent place in a container or pot.

You can use another option: wrap the aerial roots closest to the top with a bandage with moss and attach them to the trunk. Periodically, this dressing should be moistened to prevent it from drying out. When a large number of new roots are formed, the top must be cut off and, having treated the cut with charcoal, plant this shoot in a pot with an earthen mixture.

There is no need to be afraid to spoil the decorative appearance of the vine by cutting off its top. The fact is that in adult large monstera plants, the lower leaves gradually die off, which makes the trunk bare and the plant loses its attractiveness.

Top trimming stimulates the formation of new lateral shoots, which will give your old plant volume and return its former decorative effect. At the same time, for those who do not want to disrupt the natural course of plant development and prune it, the seed method of reproduction can be recommended.

Seeds

This method is only possible if the home monstera has bloomed and given seeds. Usually from 10 to 16 seeds are formed in the "cob". After ripening, they are sown in a light earthy mixture. In warmth and with sufficient humidity, the seeds germinate after about a month.

Monstera seeds

At first, the seedlings grow juvenile uncut leaves, and already at 5-8 months of growth, real adult leaves appear. After two years, the plants planted in a permanent place have a well-developed root system, from 3 to 5 juvenile leaves and 2-4 adult dissected leaves.

Planting and transplanting

To provide the monstera with sufficient nutrition, it must be planted in large pots or containers, and periodically transplanted into fresh ground mix.

Monstera in a pot

At the same time, plants are transplanted with the following frequency:

• young vines - annually
• plants at the age of three - once every 2 years
• adult monsters - once every 3-4 years

Large mature specimens, provided that they grow in containers with a large amount of soil, do not need transplanting. In this case, it will be enough to remove the top layer of soil every year and fill up fresh fertile soil.

Soil requirements

In tropical rainforests, where monsters grow, the land consists of forest floor, compost, animal dung, rotted wood, and coal from fires.

A special earthen mixture is prepared for transplantation.

Such loose fertile soil must be provided to the liana and in room conditions. The plant is planted in an earthen mixture having the following composition:

• sod land (1 part)
• peat land (1 part)
• humus (2 parts)
• sand (1 part)

Adding dry mullein to the soil has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of this indoor plant. The second version of the soil mixture for planting monstera has the following composition:

• turf land (3 parts)
• leafy ground (part 1)
• humus earth (1 part)
• sand (1 part)

Here is another version of the composition of the earthen mixture for a home monstera:

• peat (3 parts)
• humus (2 parts)
• sand (1 part)
• sod land (1 part)
• leafy ground (part 1)

Other options for the composition of the soil for this vine are also possible. You can also buy ready-made potting soil made for monsters and palms from a flower shop. In any case, the plant needs to provide good drainage, and the substrate must be light and fertile.

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Growing and care

Homemade monstera is appreciated not only because of its incredible decorative effect, but also due to its unpretentiousness.... Undemanding to temperature and lighting allows you to grow the monster in both warm and cool rooms, in places with good lighting and in dimly lit corners.

Monstera is a rather unpretentious plant

This vine can withstand:

• dry air
• temperature differences
• irregular watering
• significant gas contamination

Thus, monstera is a hardy and very unpretentious plant that can tolerate deviations from optimal keeping conditions. It will continue to grow, however, in this case, it will stop blooming and bearing fruit.

Monstera is a powerful vine, and supports are necessary for an adult plant, otherwise its stem may break. A good support option is an artificial stem with a height of 70-100 cm, which can be purchased at plant stores.

On the lower part of the stem, opposite each leaf of the monstera, aerial roots grow. They, reaching the soil surface, penetrate into the soil and provide the plant with an additional source of water and minerals. This promotes better plant growth and development. In addition, aerial roots serve as a support for young stems.

When growing monstera at home, aerial roots should never be removed. They must be carefully bent down and their growth guided into the ground of the box or pot. The presence of aerial roots not only does not spoil the decorative appearance of the plant, but, on the contrary, gives it a special flavor and that original look, for which the monstera got its unusual name.

Watering and humidity

Indoor monstera prefers abundant watering, but it can tolerate uneven moisture well enough. This part of caring for a vine is not particularly difficult. It should be watered regularly: in summer - more often, in winter - less often, but at the same time, both the drying out of the earthen coma and excessive waterlogging of the soil in the pot should not be allowed.

Excessive watering and stagnant water for monstera is highly undesirable. Excessive moisture can cause rotting of the roots and the appearance of dark spots on the foliage, after which the plant may lose some of its beautiful leaves.

In summer, the monster should be watered more often.

Do not forget that monstera is a native of the humid tropics. This vine with aerial roots is not as demanding on temperature and sunlight as it is on high atmospheric humidity. Therefore, your green pet will need to periodically spray the leaves, as well as wash and dust them.

In hot summers, this should be done much more often than in the autumn-winter period. It is very helpful to dip the long, dangling, cord-like roots of the monstera in a flowerpot of water. This moisture contributes to much faster leaf development and good plant growth. Water for irrigation, spraying and wiping the leaves should be used soft, preferably rainwater.

Temperature control and lighting

The optimum temperature for growing monstera at home is about 18-22 degrees. In winter, the temperature for the vine should be approximately 16-18 degrees, but the plant can tolerate small fluctuations and temperature drops.

It is advisable to place the monster in lighted places

This luxurious indoor liana will feel good at temperatures ranging from 14 to 25 degrees. Do not turn the container with the plant to the sun too often or move it from one place to another. This can have a very significant effect on its development, and not for the better.

Although the monstera is not too demanding on the light regime and can put up with a lack of sunlight, it is better to place it in well-lit places. The location on the east or west side will be optimal for this plant. In the summer months, to avoid burns, the monster needs to be shaded from direct sunlight.

Top dressing

Good growth of this vine is an indicator of normal development of the monstera. If an adult plant loses its ability to form large, cut leaves, and the emerging new aerial roots become thin, this is a sure sign that the plant is experiencing a lack of nutrition.

Fertilizer for monstera

With the correct composition of the land mixture and periodic transplants, the indoor monstera can grow quite well even without additional nutrition. Nevertheless, feeding with a mullein or complex mineral fertilizer will not only not harm, but will also bring tangible benefits to the plant.

Fertilize the monster every 3 weeks. Top dressing can accelerate the vegetative growth of the vine and stimulate flowering. If the plant is grown in a pot or container that has a small volume, then additional nutrition is simply necessary.

Diseases and pests

With proper care, monstera are rarely affected by pests. If this happens, improper housing conditions or infested neighboring plants may be the cause.

Liana can be damaged by scale insects, spider mites and mealybugs. When the first signs of infection appear, the plant must be treated with special preparations for pests.

Ailing plant leaves

If the old leaves of monstera gradually turn yellow and die off, this is a natural phenomenon. But for all their unpretentiousness, plants can react to unfavorable conditions of detention.

Let's take a look at the most common care mistakes:

1. Dark spots on the leaves this thermophilic creeper can appear due to too low temperatures. In this case, the pot with the plant should be rearranged to a warmer place.
2. Monstera leaves may turn yellow in winter due to waterlogging. Wait until the earthen coma dries up and reduce the number and intensity of watering.
3. Leaf burns plants can appear in hot summer from direct sunlight. The monster should be shaded from the direct sun, especially at noon.
4. If creeper leaves turn pale, losing their intense green color, or dry out altogether, this may indicate a lack of fertilizer. It is necessary to feed every 7-10 days.
5. If plant stems rot, the reason may be excess moisture and low temperature: it is under these conditions that stem rot develops. In this case, you cannot do without transplanting the plant into another pot. At the same time, the temperature in the room should be increased to the optimum for the growth and development of the monstera and the watering should be reduced.
6. Yellowing and drying of the edges of the leaves indicates dry air.
7. Leaves become smaller and grow without cuts due to insufficient lighting.

Monstera is one of the most beautiful ornamental deciduous plants grown indoors. It is highly valued in floriculture, and in interiors it can serve as a magnificent decoration. Monstera is best suited for growing in large open spaces.

Monstera in the house

It looks spectacular in offices, shop windows, hotel foyers and theater halls, in spacious country houses and large apartments. It is preferable to place this plant separately from others. Monstera itself looks attractive, although it can be combined with other decorative leafy or flowering pets.

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Huge fans of dark green openwork leaves on long stalks, cords of air roots on a thick stem - this is what a monstera looks like. A plant that superstitious people are afraid of and which is loved by flower growers who are well acquainted with it. How can you not love this miracle of tropical nature. After all, monstera creates harmony and comfort around itself, purifies and ionizes the air, and also, as experts assure, helps to develop intelligence.It is no coincidence that these vines plant trees in schools, other educational institutions and offices. At home, monstera will also be appropriate, it is a very convenient plant to care for and reproduce.

Plant with openwork leaves

Monstera is a typical representative of the South American tropics. In the wild, this vine grows up to 50 meters. And its carved leaves reach a meter in width. To climb trees, the vine grows strong aerial roots, they descend from the branches and reach the ground. If the monstera has lost contact with the soil, thanks to the air processes, it will fix on the trunk where it lives and become an epiphyte (a plant without soil).

Monstera is a typical representative of the South American tropics, the length of the vine can be 50 meters

Monstera leaves, large, shiny and leathery, deserve special attention. They are located on long stalks and are equipped with an amazing "cut" pattern. They have gracefully cut edges, and sometimes neat symmetrical holes seem to be punched. Not only the appearance of the monster foliage is interesting, but also its internal structure. The lateral veins of the plant are equipped with special organs - guides. With increasing humidity, they emit droplets of a transparent liquid. The monstera seems to be crying. It has long been noticed that crying begins before the rain. So monstera is a natural barometer.

Monstera has gorgeous leaves with delicately cut edges and neat holes.

In natural conditions, the liana blooms. A large (30 cm) yellowish, cream or lilac inflorescence is very similar to an ear of corn, covered, like a blanket, with a petal.

Monstera inflorescence looks like an ear of corn

The monstera fruit ripens for almost a year. A variety of plants called a delicious ripe cob is edible, inside its juicy pulp, its taste resembles something between a banana and a pineapple. But in captivity, monsters rarely bloom and do not bear fruit.

In our area, you will not taste the monster, and the inhabitants of South America grow liana because of its juicy and fragrant fruits.

Monstera is often confused with the split-leaf variety of philodendron. These plants are the closest relatives, they are from the aroid family. But the leaves of the philodendron are more elongated and pointed at the end. The most important difference between monstera and philodendron is juice. If you want to make sure which plant is in front of you, break off or cut a shoot or leaf. The monstera has a clear juice, and the philodendron has a milky one.

Monstera is one of the most undemanding and therefore popular plants in indoor floriculture. They are loved for their original greenery and fast growth. At home, the vine, of course, is ten times less than in nature, but it can grow up to 4 meters. Not everyone can comfortably accommodate such a giant at home. But in public areas, the monstera is a frequent inhabitant. She copes well with vertical landscaping, looks great in tubs or stylish pots that stand apart from other flowers. It is believed that monstera not only heals the atmosphere, but also absorbs negative energy.

Monstera heals the atmosphere in the room, absorbs negative energy and is simply pleasing to the eye

But the openwork monstera also has opponents. Some of them believe that liana has no place in the house. This superstition has a long history. In the 18th century, when Europeans began to settle down in Latin America, there were rumors that giant killer plants lived in the jungle. The pioneers found the remains of animals and people, pierced with stems and roots. They said that the plant allegedly attacks living beings. But the truth is that the plant has grown through someone who has already died, lost in the jungle.

Such tales have done a disservice. The innocent liana was named monstera - monstrum, which means a monster in Latin. But according to other sources, the name of the plant comes from the word monstrosus - bizarre or amazing.This definition is best suited to an exotic liana. Its foliage creates bizarre patterns, and the plant, familiar to flower growers for more than three centuries, still surprises and pleases.

Loving, oblique, thin and other monsters

About 50 species of monstera have been described in nature, but only a few of them have moved to houses. Others stayed in greenhouses and conservatories. Let's get acquainted with some representatives of the domesticated monster.

• Gourmet Monstera, which is also called attractive and tasty, is the leader in popularity. At home, in equatorial America, it is grown for the sake of delicious fruits. In harsh climates, this vine adorns greenhouses and premises. In greenhouse conditions, this monstera stretches for 12 meters, in indoor conditions only 3. The lianas have fleshy dense stems. Heart-like leathery leaves are large (60 cm), strongly dissected, with lobes and holes. This variety can bloom when kept in an apartment.
• The monstera gourmet has a variegated white-mottled shape, it is also called alba. It does not grow as fast as green and is a little more whimsical. But these disadvantages can be reconciled because of the incredibly beautiful leaves. They are the same "lacy", but they are also painted with white patterns that can take up half a sheet. And the older the plant gets, the more white markings. In the variegated variety, the stem is also multi-colored.
• Variegated marble monstera combines yellow and green color of leaves and stems.
• Monstera Borziga is bred on the basis of delicacy. But this is a more miniature vine. The leaves are smaller, no more than 30 cm, the shoots are thinner. Grows well and quickly indoors.
• Monstera adansona (she's punched or full of holes) comes from the Brazilian jungle. This liana is about 8 meters long with large (up to 50 cm) thin ovoid leaves. A lot of small holes are chaotically "punched" on them. The plant blooms reluctantly. Indoors, the Adanson monster is successfully grown, but so far it is rare.
• Monstera oblique or unequal comes from the tropics of Brazil and Guiana. This climbing liana has relatively small (20 cm) asymmetrical oval leaves on short (12 cm) petioles. The inflorescence is only 4 cm long. The plant is cultivated as indoor, but specimens from the greenhouse look better and more spectacular.
• Doubtful monstera (dubia) is a rare variety. This delicate miniature liana has solid young leaves with a silvery ornament along the veins. They resemble the foliage of scindapsus. With age, they turn green and become perforated.
• Pointed monstera is a compact liana - 3 meters. Leaves are dense with a pointed end at first intact. Small cuts appear only in an adult plant. Despite its unpretentiousness, it is rarely grown in home floriculture.
• Monstera thin is a very rare vine. It is small with delicate openwork leaves. In young plants, they are heart-shaped, without cuts. In adults, they are pinnately dissected. The plant is undemanding, but it grows very slowly.

Types and names of the flower in the photo

Video: acquaintance with the variegated monster

Conditions for creepers (table)

The purity of its large carved leaves is very important for the vine. And if the dusty monster is also sprayed, it will become a real spotted monster.

Why you need to dust off

• Dust closes the pores on the leaves, and this interferes with gas exchange with the environment.
• It forms a film that slows down the process of photosynthesis.
• Dust can contain and accumulate substances harmful to the plant.
• It can hide traces of insect pests.

So rub the monstera leaves regularly. Better in the morning, so that the plant dries out before nightfall. Wipe the leaves with a soft, damp cloth. Before that, to facilitate cleaning, you can spray the monster.

For greater beauty, you can give the foliage a gloss. Polishing products are sold in specialized stores, it is better to take them in an aerosol can.If you don't want to use a drug from a store, try folk remedies.

Florists advise using beer, a weak solution of vinegar or milk for polishing. Arm yourself with a rag, choose a polish and get started. Young tender foliage does not need to be touched. And polish adult leaves carefully, without pressing hard, so as not to injure. Such cleaning will make the plant not only attractive but healthy.

Shiny monstera leaves are an indicator of plant health.

Planting and transplanting monstera at home

For the active growth of beautiful leaves, Monstera needs a nutritious and at the same time loose and porous soil, neutral in acidity. Monstera potting mix options:

• 2 shares of sod land, one share of sand, peat and humus land;
• equal parts of leafy soil, high-moor peat, split bark mixed with chopped moss and half of perlite or coarse sand;
• ready-made store-bought primer for Saintpaulias with the addition of perlite or coconut fiber.

We transplant a young plant

Young monsters need a pot change every year. They quickly gain green mass, therefore they grow out of the old container. It is not difficult to choose a pot for a young plant that has not yet gained weight. Almost any will do, you just need to be guided by the rule: the diameter of the new container should be 2-3 cm larger than the old one. Liana does not need a pot that is too tall or wide. Choose about the same height and diameter. Before planting, install a support for the monstera: sticks or a post.

1. Sterilize the potting soil, drainage and pot before planting.
2. At the bottom of the pot, pour a drainage layer (about 1/5 of the volume) (expanded clay, broken brick, gravel, perlite, foam crumbs).
3. Carefully remove the plant from the old pot, being careful not to scatter the earthen ball.
4. Examine the roots, if there are damaged, remove them.
5. Place the earthen lump in a new container in the center. Place the support next to it.
6. Fill in new soil carefully and compact it lightly.
7. Water the plant, put it in a permanent place, spray.
8. A transplant is stressful for a monstera, and humid air will help to adapt.

Monstera is quite capable of getting along with other vines. For example, philodendron and scindapsus can become its neighbors. Growing in one pot, they make up an original ensemble. When choosing companions for a monstera, take into account the peculiarities of their maintenance and care, they should be similar.

Designers have created special pots for the monster, copying the intricate aerial roots of the plant.

How to transplant an adult monster

Adult vines (over 4 years old) are recommended to be replanted every two years. The larger the volume of the land, the larger the monstera will grow. For an adult plant, you have to take an extensive (about 20 liters) pot for growth. It can be 6–8 cm higher than the previous one. Preference should be given to ceramic containers. They are heavier and more resistant, in such a massive plant will not turn over. The pot should be wide so that the monstera's aerial roots can reach the soil. Take care of the support for the plant in advance. It is installed during transplantation. It is unlikely that you will be able to transplant a tall monster alone, so find an assistant.

1. Before transplanting, water the monster well so that the earthen ball is completely wet and the roots acquire elasticity.
2. Prepare and decontaminate the potting mix, drain, and pot.
3. Place a drainage layer on the bottom of the container and install a support.
4. Using a knife or spatula, gently run along the inner walls of the old pot to separate the adherent roots.
5. If roots have grown into drainage holes, trim them back.
6. Get the monster with an earthen lump out of the old pot (you may have to stand on a chair, holding the plant by the stem, and your assistant will remove the pot).
7. Transfer the plant to a new pot, place it in the center and gradually cover the distance between the walls and the earthen lump with soil, tamp it slightly.
8. Water the soil in a circle, wait for it to settle, and add more. But do not try to fill the entire pot to the brim, so that later it will be easier to change the top layer.

Monstera transplantation becomes more and more difficult every year. And instead, they only change the top layer (5–6 cm) of the soil in the pot. Humus or other nutrient components must be added to the new soil for nutrition.

Stands and supports for indoor flower

In nature, monstera finds its own support. Liana braids tree trunks, climbing higher towards the sun. On the trunk it is held, like tentacles, by aerial roots. At home, the florist must take care of the support for the monstera. Without it, it will not be possible to grow a harmonious and healthy plant. Heavy leaves will tilt the stem at first, and then it will not withstand this weight and will break. Support will be needed when the monstera has not yet reached half a meter. If you notice that the stem of the plant has deviated from the vertical, it's time to take action.

This monster has already managed to bend the stem, now it will be very difficult to straighten it

Vine supports - sticks wrapped in coconut fiber - can be found in flower shops. But they are not the best option for a monstera. The fiber does not retain moisture and its layer is usually very thin. And for the monstera to be fixed on the support, it is necessary to grow into it with aerial roots.

A better support can be made by hand.

1. Drill holes in a piece of hollow plastic pipe (choose the diameter and length, commensurate with the size of the plant) - more along the entire length.
2. Place the pipe in the pot where you plant the monster.
3. Pour expanded clay and sand into the pipe through the top to the level of the soil, this is the prevention of decay.
4. Mix sphagnum moss with peat and fill the pipe to the top.
5. Wrap the support with moistened moss, and on top - with a thin plastic mesh with cells of 1–2 cm (you can use mesh stockings).
6. Fix the net with a strong thread or fishing line.
7. Plant the monster next to the support.
8. Water not only the soil in the pot, but the substrate in the tube through the top. Spray the support as you would the entire plant.

This design humidifies the air very well, allows the air roots to gain moisture and keeps the monstera stem in an upright position.

The stability of the monstera support structure can be increased. Make parallel holes at the bottom of the pipe and pass sturdy plastic sticks through them in a crisscross pattern. Their length should allow the installation of the structure in the spacer.

In addition to the support described above, the monster is often allowed to lean on pieces of furniture. But this is not very reliable. You can arrange fastenings (a wooden lattice or strong twine) for the vine directly on the wall so that it trails along it. But then it will be more difficult to care for the plant and you can forget about its transplant. It is unrealistic to remove branched lashes from the wall. Some growers use a whole system of different supports. For example, a moss tube combined with a wooden trellis for climbing plants, on the wall. The monstera is placed between them, growing both along the wall and along the support.

By the way, delicate and miniature monsters: dubia, thin or oblique, will do without a support, they can be grown as ampelous.

Monstera in the interior in the photo

Video: Monstera transplant

Care: Do's and Don'ts

Taking care of a properly growing monster is easy. This giant liana prefers to drink plentifully, not too much food. And she will be glad to have a winter rest and a timely haircut.

Watering and feeding

Most of the monsters are rapidly growing vines. Therefore, in spring and summer, when the greenery grows, they need good watering. The soil should only dry out slightly from above between water intakes.It must be pre-filtered, defended or boiled, and then cooled to room temperature.

In winter, the frequency and volume of watering are reduced. It is not necessary to dry the soil to a state of breadcrumbs; keep it slightly moist. The lower the temperature in the room where the monstera is, the poorer the watering. Waterlogging leads to root rot.

They feed the monster quite rarely, about once every three weeks. And only during growth. Liquid mineral fertilizers can be used for decorative leafy plants. Prepare the solution twice as weak as stated in the instructions. You can give the monster organic. Drizzle over the mullein with a weak solution, but note: it has an unpleasant odor. Now there is also odorless fertilizers based on manure (Agrovit kor).

Blooming at home

Monstera blooms willingly in greenhouse conditions. At home, this is a rare occurrence. Most flower growers agree that a monstera needs more humid air than in an apartment for flowering. In addition, the plant usually receives nitrogen fertilization, which stimulates the growth of leaves and inhibits the formation of flowers.

At home, monstera rarely blooms.

But is it worth it to be upset if the monstera does not bloom, because this vine is appreciated for its delicate large leaves. And the flowers of the monstera are not very good. They look like calla lilies or spathiphyllums, only the cob is larger. And not everyone will have enough patience to wait for the ripening of the fruit. It will be possible to eat the monstera berry only after a year.

Features of winter care

The monstera does not have a pronounced rest period, it does not shed its leaves, but simply stops growth with the onset of cold weather and a decrease in daylight hours. Monstera is ready to winter at a temperature of + 12-16. At this time, it is necessary to cancel feeding and reduce watering.

If you give the monstera artificial light and increase the room temperature to +18, the monstera will come to life again. But it is not worth depriving her of a respite at all. Let the plant rest for at least a month.

Aerial roots and monstera formation

Regrown aerial roots do not always decorate the monster. But they serve to nourish and moisturize, so you should never cut them off. When spraying monstera, be sure to moisturize the aerial roots. By the way, they can be disguised by collecting in bunches, wrapped in moss or tied to the stem. If the support of the monstera is a moss tube, the air roots will grow into it themselves, they will help the liana to climb along the lattice.

Over the years, the monstera slows down the pace of development. Then, for rejuvenation and stimulation, cut off the top of the vine. Be sure to sprinkle the cut with charcoal. The operation is carried out in the spring, when the plant has not yet started to grow. This gives impetus to the awakening of the lateral kidneys. And the top (it is necessary to leave 2-3 internodes on it) is rooted in order to get a new plant.

Monstera "cries", does not grow, turns yellow + other care errors (table)

Diseases and pests (table)

Video: caring for a monster

Reproduction

Monstera can be grown from daughter shoots, stem and apical cuttings, and from seeds. The plant does not propagate with leaves or aerial roots. The daughter shoots that appear on the stem are bred to the monster from March to June, at the same time cuttings are carried out.

How to propagate with apical and stem cuttings

1. Cut short cuttings, it can be the top with 2-3 internodes or pieces of the stem with 1-2 leaves. For them, make the upper cut straight, and the lower oblique.
2. Powder the slices with crushed coal, dry them.
3. Put drainage in a container and about 2 cm of a mixture of peat and humus soil, on top of 3 cm of sand (sterilize everything beforehand).
4. Plant the cuttings. The node from which the aerial roots grow must be buried in half.
5. Cover the seedlings with glass or clear plastic.
6. Place in a warm (20–25 ° С) place with diffused light.
7. Moisten the plantings without letting the top layer dry out, spray about every other day.
8. After rooting, plant the young monsters in separate pots.

Cuttings can be rooted in water. But this is not the best option for a monstera. Roots accustomed to water do not adapt to the soil. The plant will ache and grow new roots after being planted in a pot.

Monstera cuttings are best rooted in the ground

Daughter (lateral) processes

1. On the stem of the monstera, select a cut - a shoot with a leaf, from which the strongest aerial roots come.
2. Wrap them with moistened moss, and on top, loosely with plastic wrap, creating a greenhouse on the plant.
3. Keep the moss moist and spray it regularly.
4. Wait for the cuttings to grow roots.
5. After about one and a half to two months, if the roots have grown, cut off the cuttings from the plant and plant in a pot.

You need to tinker with the daughter processes, but this is how the monstera reproduces most efficiently.

Seeds

For sowing, take only fresh seeds, they are not stored for a long time.

1. Wrap the planting material in a cloth and soak overnight in a solution of growth stimulants (Epin, Zircon).
2. Put wet sphagnum moss in a plastic bag, spread the seeds on top.
3. Place the bag in a warm (at least 25 degrees) place.
4. Moisten crops regularly.
5. In a month and a half, seedlings will hatch.
6. Plant young monstera sprouts in separate pots.
7. Keep in a bright and warm place.
8. Seedlings develop slowly. At first, they will have uncut leaves. Only a year later, 3-4 true leaves will appear.

Video: monstera from seeds - a useful experience

Video: description of monstera and propagation by cuttings

Reviews

If you love southern countries and adventures, exotic monstera can help you create a tropical setting at home. Europeans have come up with many tales about the vampirism of this vine. And South Americans believe that monstera is very good at treating headaches. You just have to lie under the shade of this plant. Yes, and feng shui experts say that monstera promotes harmony in relationships between people and even helps to make important decisions. It removes chaos in thoughts and calms the nerves. You can decide for yourself whether to trust bioenergetics or not. But no one will argue with the fact that the huge carved leaves of the monstera provide the room with useful oxygen. So make friends with the fancy vine for health.

I am a philologist by education. My hobbies are reading, traveling, caring for my garden and pets. Therefore, much of what I am writing about is not theory at all, but a practice I have gone through personally. Rate the article:

(1 vote, average: 5 out of 5)

The tropical plant Monstera, adapted to indoor conditions, has been successfully cultivated in our country for a long time. It is distinguished by intensive growth, is not demanding on care, it is easy to transplant and reproduce, therefore it is loved by domestic flower growers. At home, you can get a new monster using leaves, aerial roots and cuttings. Experts share their experience on how to do it efficiently and quickly. Photo and video recommendations will help beginners to understand the intricacies.

Reproduction of monstera by cuttings. Rooting in water

Cutting is the easiest way to propagate this culture. Planting material is obtained from the middle or top of the stem. It is important that there is at least one kidney on the segment. The easiest way is to place the stalk in an opaque container with clean, settled water:

• treat the twig with a rooting stimulant;
• immerse it in water by a third and leave for several days;
• keep the liquid at room temperature or slightly warmer;
• wait for the formation of at least 3 root processes;
• transplant the cutting into a pot of soil.

Advice. The optimal soil composition for the constant growth of monstera is sod soil, peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 1.The mixture is relevant for any method of plant propagation. Sometimes the proportion of the turf is doubled.

It has been proven that monstera roots grow faster and more efficiently in water, in about 2-3 weeks. The disadvantages of this method of propagation by cuttings include an imbalance in the development of a young plant. The seedling will vigorously develop roots. Only when he forms them completely will he start growing shoots and leaves. This problem is solved by feeding the cuttings in the ground with growth stimulants.

Rooting cuttings

Reproduction of monstera by cuttings. Rooting in soil

Another type of cuttings is rooting in the ground:

1. Prepare the substrate, sandy or peaty. Pour it into a pot.
2. The optimum soil temperature for the stem to take root is 28 ° C or higher. Humidity is high.
3. Cover the pot with glass or plastic to reinforce the conditions for the monstera that are closest to its tropical native.
4. Wait 3-4 weeks until the cutting does not just put out roots, but grows them in large quantities. The more extensive the root system of a plant, the better it will take root.
5. Transplant the cutting into another container with soil.

The disadvantage of this breeding option is that as it grows, the stem strengthens and develops, but not at the base. There it remains the same as when landing. Therefore, the new plant will tend to break. In this situation, there are two ways out. They can be used individually or together:

• use initially thick cuttings;
• make a support for the bush.

Another option for rooting a twig in the ground is horizontal. Cut off a stem cutting with at least 2 buds and place it in a lying position on the soil. The substrate should be light. For example, sphagnum, sand or hydrogel. It is not necessary to sprinkle the twig with soil, the main thing is that one bud touches the surface:

• do not forget to water and spray the cutting regularly;
• cover the pot with plastic wrap;
• after the first root shoots and leaves have formed, plant the cutting in a permanent place.

Cutting preparation

How to root a monster using a leaf

Breeding monstera with leaves is less effective. They usually resort to it if the leaf is accidentally broken off. It should be put upside down in a container of water and wait until the shoots appear. The leaf needs more roots to take root in the soil later, so use a large jar.

The difficulties of this rooting method:

• it will take at least a month to wait for the formation of full-fledged roots;
• the leaf often withers even before the roots grow back;
• the jar of water should be opaque - the roots do not like light.

Advice. After the formation of the roots, the plant should be transplanted into the ground. Its composition is the same as for other breeding methods.

A much more effective method is to plant the monster with a leaf, near which aerial roots grow. This is a natural way for a plant to reproduce. The apartment is not a rainforest, so moss should be tied to the roots with the help of a film. Leave holes for watering and root growth. Moss the moss regularly. When the roots are large enough, they should be cut along with the leaf and transplanted to a permanent place.

Rooting a leaf

Optimal care for monstera rooting

The tropical guest does not always quickly take root and take root in the soil, but then it grows quickly. The adult plant is rather large and spreading. Consider this when choosing a pot for him. A small capacity should not be used even when planting short cuttings. The roots will grow and begin to peek out even from the drainage holes.

Temperature is an important factor in the decorative effect of a monstera. The warmer, the larger and more beautiful its leaves grow. Of course, heat must be accompanied by a high degree of humidity. After reproduction, the young plant should be placed in the light, but protected from direct sunlight.This will help the bush to form an original pattern on the foliage and make its color a rich green.

Advice. As culture matures, it loses its need for an abundance of light. It can be moved to a shaded area.

The simplest material for rooting monstera is aerial roots. With their help, the plant reproduces in its native habitat. Cutting is also a pretty effective way. And it is better to use a sheet for these purposes as a last resort.

Growing monstera: video