Walnut care and pruning
Reproduction of a walnut can be done in many ways, but the best of them is sowing its seeds in a stationary place for the winter. As a result, this plant will rather quickly enter the fruiting process. For sowing, it is necessary to choose a frost-resistant variety, the fruits of which are easily separated from the kernel. At the same time, nuts taken directly from branches that extend at an obtuse angle from the tree are welcome. According to statistical data, it can be seen that seedlings obtained from nuts growing on branches branching off at an acute angle have much lower winter hardiness and productivity.
The next equally important breeding method - walnut pruning - is carried out at the end of August. It is known that in the following years, young tree growths are quite vulnerable to the effects of frost. Therefore, they must be cut by a third at the end of August. By this time, the pruned branch is laying fruit buds, and by winter the latter can be attributed to lignified. An uncut young branch gradually freezes out and is capable of destroying the entire tree.
If the seedling remains uncircumcised, then shoots with rather sharp corners will sprout from the nearby buds in the area of its top. The latter should not be left in the form of a skeleton of walnut branches.
According to the tier-improved system, walnut pruning assumes the presence of three branches with an interval of 10 to 15 cm.
The modified leader crown should be formed from 5 sequentially placed branches of the skeleton with a distance of 50 to 60 m.
A cup-shaped crown is usually formed of the same height as other types. And the number of skeletal branches is limited to 3-4.
I tried to start a walnut several times. I dug it in different places, covered it with a thick layer of snow. Why it doesn’t sprout, I don’t understand in any way. This winter I will ask my neighbor to sow at home, and then take a seedling and plant it in my garden.