Dowel

Installation of objects with significant weight

For attaching heavy objects (furniture cabinets, shelves, TV stands, etc.), you must choose a dowel, also related to the impact type. In this case, the diameter of such a dowel, like the transverse dimension of the drill, must be at least 10 mm. Such dowels are deepened into the walls by 6 cm, and into the ceiling - by 8 cm. For reliable fastening of heavy objects, as a rule, at least 6 dowels are used.

For fastening the horizontal bar and stairs, anchor bolts are used, the diameter of which must be at least 8 mm. Such bolts are deepened into the surface of the walls by 6 cm, and into the ceiling - by 8 cm.

Installation procedure for anchor in a concrete wall

Varieties of anchor bolts

Anchor bolts used to secure various items are divided into three main types:

anchor bolts with a nut, which, after mounting the fastener, is tightened with a ring or open-end wrench (with the help of such bolts, hidden fasteners are made);
anchor bolts with a self-locking nut, which is tightened using a cross-type screwdriver (such bolts can be used to perform fasteners in those places that are visible);
double-expansion anchor bolts are the most reliable fasteners that are used to fix even very heavy objects.

Basic types of anchors

How to choose the right drill for a dowel for attaching various objects

It is screwed in with a Phillips screwdriver with a PH2 or PH3 profile.

For very heavy things, double-sided anchors are taken. They are considered the most reliable: under the weight of a trusted object, they will not break out of the surface (except with its fragment).

A special case

The approach to drilling dowels changes when we are dealing with an unreliable surface. This can be a drywall construction or an old house where the density of the walls is not too different from gypsum. Brick buildings of the 60s of the last century can also be attributed here: in most cases, the brick in their walls crumbles even from a slight impact. When working with such surfaces, follow these rules:

Dowels are purchased in nylon, with a section of 10-12 mm.
Drilling depth 60 mm.
The diameter of the victorious drill is selected in 8-10 mm, that is, 2 units less than the fastener has.
Drilling is carried out in one approach, without changing the nozzles and with the hammer mode turned off.

How to fix a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling - recommendations

Most often, problems with attaching any products to drywall occur in the ceiling area

Therefore, it is very important to think over the location of all elements at the design stage, and adhere to certain rules during the installation process. It is best to plan the location of the devices at least at the stage of mounting the profile frame

Having decided on the place, it is necessary to mount several additional profiles in this zone.

But it is impossible to hang chandeliers weighing several kilograms neither to the profile slats, nor even more so to drywall. Do not despair - there is still a way out. To mount such a “heavyweight, you will need a hammer drill, a long drill for concrete, a collet (a special type of fastening adapted for concrete), a spacer pin to hold the chandelier.

Although the process of hanging a massive chandelier will require quite a lot of physical effort, it is quite simple to perform. To begin with, you will need to use a punch and a long drill to make a hole in the concrete floor in the very place where the chandelier will hang. The hole diameter must match the collet diameter. The collet should go into the hole without much effort, but at the same time it should be tight enough.It is absolutely impossible to use a hammer to drive the collet into the hole.

Place a collet over the end of the retaining pin and insert the hardware into the hole. Gradually tightening the pin, firmly fix the fasteners. You can even use auxiliary tools for this. Pull the stud firmly to check if it is firmly attached. A well-fixed collet is capable of withstanding even the weight of an average person, but it is still not recommended to test it for strength in this way. After checking for strength, a hook or console for the chandelier itself is attached to the bottom of the hairpin, and then it is attached. That's the whole process!

Securing heavy objects

Hanging cabinets and TV stands are static and heavy. They are attached to brick and reinforced concrete walls using an impact dowel containing ten millimeters. To drill a hole, a victorious drill is used. The fasteners should go 6 cm into the wall and 8 cm into the ceiling. Large objects are fixed in an average of 6 dowels.

To fix the horizontal bar or ladder, anchor bolts with a diameter of 8 mm are used. Based on this, it is necessary to make a hole with a drill with a victorious tip. They enter the wall of the anchor up to 6 cm deep, and into the ceiling up to 8 cm. In this version, the object must be fixed with 4 bolts.

Types of anchor bolts

There are 3 types of anchors:

The nut is outside, and after installation work is tightened with a ring, wrench or open-end wrench. This anchor is used for concealed fasteners.
Self-locking nut, screwed in a Phillips screwdriver with a profile PH # 2 or 3. This anchor bolt is suitable for fastening in conspicuous places.
Double-expansion anchors are the most durable. They hold heavy objects.

Fastening to an unreliable surface

Modern homes have many surfaces made from materials that are not very durable. These include drywall, old bricks, wood planks, or pressed sawdust slabs. When working with them, it is better to use nylon fasteners with a diameter of more than 10 mm, the installation depth should not be less than 6 cm. It is better to choose a bit smaller in size.

Read also: The rating of the capacitors in the diagram

The drilling process must be shock-free, as excessive stress can damage the surface. Using the impact mode may not leave visible damage, but the internal structure of the wall may suffer. If the drill diameter is too large, the fasteners will move freely in the hole, gradually increasing its diameter, especially if the work was carried out with aerated concrete.

For drywall walls, it is not necessary to use a drill of a smaller diameter, the main thing is not to press on the drill and do not use the impact mode. Drywall is a very delicate material, even a small load can lead to the destruction of a section of the wall. The hole should be drilled with light force to match the size of the plastic dowel with a self-tapping screw.

It should be understood that it is not necessary to attach heavy structures to such surfaces, even if the material initially copes with the load, over time, under heavy weight, collapse may occur.

If you take into account the material from which the wall is made, choose the right dowel and drill for it, and also having a quality tool in your hands, you can make a high-quality installation, and not worry about the safety of your furniture or household appliances. Observing the recommendations, even an inexperienced master will cope with such an installation.

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What are the basic principles for choosing a drill for a dowel? How should the diameter of the dowel and the drill correspond?

There are several options for selecting a drill for a dowel. This moment of choice should depend on the type of work envisaged and the quality of the work surface.

if the wall is reinforced concrete or brick, solid masonry and it is supposed to hang a light object, then it is best to choose a shock dowel with a diameter of 6 mm and a victor drill of the same diameter. In this case, the dowel should go into the wall by at least 40 mm, and into the ceiling - by 60 mm. The minimum number of dowels is 2 pcs.

If you are going to fasten medium-weight objects (5–10 kilograms) to a reinforced concrete or brick wall, then it is recommended to use an impact dowel (8 mm in diameter) and an 8 mm drill bit. In this case: the dowel should go 60 mm into the wall, and 80 mm into the ceiling. The number of dowels used should not be less than 4 pieces.

if you intend to fix a heavy / bulky (static) object to a reinforced concrete or brick wall, you should choose an impact dowel and a victorious drill with a diameter of 10 mm. In this case, the dowel should go 60 mm into the wall, and 80 mm into the ceiling. The minimum number of dowels is 6 pcs.

When attaching heavy objects, in addition to those with a high dynamic load (for example, stair treads, horizontal bars, etc.), it is advisable to use anchor bolts with a diameter of 8 mm and a winder drill of the same diameter. The bolt should go 60 mm into the wall, and 80 mm into the ceiling. The number of bolts for this type of work should not be less than 4 pieces.

in old houses and buildings, when choosing a pair of dowels - drill, it is recommended to adhere to the following rule:

1) for fastening, you need to use nylon dowels with a diameter of 10 or 12 mm. It should fit into the wall by about 60 mm.

2) you need to drill a hole with a winder drill, the diameter of which will be 2 mm less than the diameter of the dowel used. This is done because the drill severely "breaks" the hole in the soft material of the walls of old houses / buildings.

What kind of drill to drill under the dowel | Rogue Master's Notes

Quite often the question arises: "What kind of drill to drill under the dowel?" Despite the fact that, it seems, the answer to it is obvious (for dowel 6 - drill 6 mm, for dowel 8 - drill 8 mm, and so on), some experts claim that the diameter of the dowel and the diameter of the drill, as well as and the holes for it are actually different. For, allegedly, in the process of twisting and then being in the material, the fasteners undergo terrible loads. Let's try to figure out where these myths come from.

1. It is argued that for planting a self-tapping screw into a foam concrete partition, it is necessary to reduce the diameter of the hole, since with a normal diameter, the self-tapping screw begins to scroll in the hole together with the dowel, and nothing attracts. To stop this effect, various fascist methods are used, such as wrapping dowels with electrical tape, putting on cambric and heat shrink tubes, and so on.

Probably, these experts simply do not suspect about two things: a) in fact, there is a special dowel for aerated concrete; and b) if you do not have one, and it is not possible to get it, then you should use an elongated "grade" (type 8 x 60), into which you need to screw (carefully!) a long and thick self-tapping screw, for example, 5 x 60 mm. And nothing will scroll anywhere. Since the need for such structures arises, as a rule, during the installation of cornices, then such a method has been tested precisely on such an installation many times, and it works for itself.

2. If the diameter of the drill for the dowel is equal to its diameter, then when the screw is tightened, the dowel will break, and everything will have to be done again. In fact, the cases of "breaks" are usually associated with the following factors: a) you tighten a screw that is too long and / or thick; b) you twist the dowel-nail instead of hammering it; c) the material from which the dowels are made is of poor quality; d) the weather conditions under which you work do not correspond to the operating conditions for this material; e) the hole is not cleaned (this reason "works" usually when the hole is deep, say, 100 mm).

However, when you install fasteners in concrete or reinforced concrete, sometimes it will not be superfluous to jiggle the hole a little (no more than 20 - 30% of the diameter), and not only at the surface, but to the entire depth. This is if the dowel does not fit into the hole at all, and when you try to hammer it there, it bends or breaks. For short (shorter than 100 mm) self-tapping screws, "swinging" is usually not required at all.

3. Many people think: how to clean the hole? They use screws, steel or copper wire and even vacuum cleaners for this. In fact, you just do not need to stop the drill inside the hole, but you should stick it in and out several times while rotating (yes, that's right), and all the dust will be taken out, where it can be safely collected with a vacuum cleaner. If the hole is directed downward, then a vacuum cleaner can also be used.

And in conclusion: when drilling holes "for dowels" it is best to use a drill (and a hammer drill) and not a drill and an impact drill, because the productivity will be much higher. For precision drilling, it is best to use a rotary hammer with a horizontal motor, as it usually has much less vibration and the degree of swing of the drill, and therefore more accurately "grabs" the hole at the beginning.

How to drive a nail dowel correctly

There are several nuances that you should never forget about in the process of work.

When choosing a drill or drill for fixing the dowel, make sure that its diameter matches the required hole. The plastic part of the dowel must be firmly adhered to the building material of which the wall is composed.

In some cases, the drill is selected so that it is slightly smaller in diameter than required. When wedged with a metal part, it will firmly adhere to the base.

Do not drill a hole that is too deep for fasteners. The optimum depth is the length of the dowel. Plus 1-2 mm, just in case, to reliably sink the plastic part of the fastener into the thickness of the wall. A hole that is too deep will create unnecessary void, which can lead to loosening of the nail dowel in the socket.

Hold the drill or hammer drill at a 90 degree angle to the wall surface while drilling the hole. Stabilize the tool firmly while working and try not to tilt it in different directions. This will lead to a significant expansion of the hole and the dowel-nail will not be firmly held in it.

After the hole is ready, do not rush to immediately hammer a dowel-nail into it. Be sure to remove all generated dust! The most convenient way to perform this operation is with an ordinary vacuum cleaner. Do not try to blow through the hole yourself. This is pretty inefficient. In addition, stone chips can accidentally get into your eyes.

How to choose the right drill for the dowel

If you are starting a repair or construction, then, of course, you will look for the best materials to complete the task, because the efficiency and success of the work depends on it. There are no trifles in this matter, since it is from the sum of trifles that the overall result is formed. In particular, the knowledge of how to choose the right drill for the dowel depends on how the dowel will be hammered, that is, the quality and reliability of the fastening itself.

In general, everything is quite simple: the diameter of the drill used for work must always match the diameter of the dowel used. It may seem difficult to insert a dowel into a hole that is exactly the same diameter as the dowel. In fact, the situation is somewhat different, and the point is that when drilling a base made of concrete or brick, especially in perforation mode, the hole will inevitably expand. That is, after drilling, the resulting hole will be one to two millimeters wider than the diameter of your drill. And if you add to this the corrections made in advance, the difference can reach even more significant values, which can lead to undesirable consequences: your dowel will be very fragile, which is completely undesirable.

Drills in terms of their technical characteristics

If we talk about the length of the drill used in repair or construction work, it should be noted that this figure should be three to five millimeters longer than the length of the dowel. And if you use a drill bit the same length as the dowel, it may not fit completely. This is usually caused by dust that gets stuck in the hole during drilling, or due to a mismatch between the bottom of the hole and the shape of the end of the dowel. In any case, it is necessary to make some overlap. In order to be able to calculate as accurately as possible the length of the drill for the dowel, for a start it is advisable to make several test holes, that is, experimentally set everything up in the best way. For example, you can hang a shelf or lamp in your garage or closet, where the flaws in the calculations that affect your work will not be so critical.

For ease of understanding and for clarity, there is a table below that shows the optimal ratios of the dowel length and drill length.

Dowel diameter	Drill diameter	Dowel length	Drill length
5 mm	5 mm	25 mm	28 mm
6 mm	6 mm	30 mm	33 mm
8 mm	8 mm	40 mm	43 mm
10 mm	10 mm	50 mm	55 mm

In addition to the above, you can also add that if you drill a brick wall under the dowel, you need to remember about some of the features of the work. First, you should drill a hole slightly smaller than the intended diameter. The difference can be 2-5 millimeters. It depends on the drilling depth. Then the drill must be changed to a larger one and the hole widened. This procedure is repeated several times: until you get the parameters you need. Why is this sequence of actions so important? The fact is that the brick is prone to solid crumbling when drilling. This is due to the peculiarities of the structure of the material. And in order to minimize this quality, one has to use such tricks.

Otherwise, choosing the right drill for the dowel is a fairly simple task, but very significant. The success of the work on drilling the holes for the dowels will depend half on the correct choice of the drill. Remember that the result should be the strength of the installation of the dowels, that is, the strength of the fastener itself

In construction and repair work, everything is interconnected, little things simply do not exist, even seemingly insignificant nuances are important

Fastening methods

In our time, abundance has touched many areas, and construction is no exception. The variety of materials and tools would amaze any man who lived a hundred or two hundred years ago. Many works can be performed not only by professional builders or workers, but by any person who has a need and desire to learn how to do something. Let's take a look at the popular types of fasteners in relation to the base material.

Concrete, brick

There are many fastener options for working with dense base materials. Spacer, universal, nail - all these dowels in dense heavy concrete or brick will sit firmly, press firmly against the wall and create the necessary friction force.

The dowel-nail is often deservedly called "quick installation", it is very popular. Everything is simpler here and it will take much less time. You need to drill a hole (for example, when installing skirting boards), insert a dowel-nail, use a hammer - and it's done

Attention! This fastener has a nail head with slots for a Phillips screwdriver, but does not need to be tightened, this is for possible dismantling. We hammer with a hammer, do not hesitate!

Foam concrete, aerated concrete

In hollow and loose materials, it is impossible to achieve such a tight, reliable contact as in concrete, for example. For strong adhesion, such dowels are used that will provide reliability due to the shape. Such fasteners include: universal, screwed, driven elements.

A universal element in a hollow material forms a complex configuration knot, which will not allow the screw / self-tapping screw to fall out. The dowel does not expand (as in concrete, for example), but whimsically twists and further acts as a stop.

Panel and sheet materials

There is a feature of the material - a narrow sheet, behind it is emptiness. There are two types of dowels for such materials: molly and butterfly dowels. They work the same way. "Molly" is made of steel and is suitable for heavy loads (up to 75 kg), "butterfly" is made of plastic, the weight can bear up to 30 kg. Let's talk in more detail about the last type of fastener.

The affectionate name was given to this fastening device for its appearance, vaguely resembling a butterfly. The main condition is a suitable material width. An important feature of this type of fastener is that it shrinks during the twisting process, special inserts are pressed against the back wall of drywall or other material. Thus, there is an even distribution of the entire resulting load on the sheet.

In conclusion, I would like to wish you not only to choose the right drill for the dowel, but also to get maximum pleasure from the construction process!

Making a dowel from scrap material

As a dowel, you can successfully use a furniture dowel. It is made from hardwood. Diameter 8 mm, length 40 mm, with longitudinal ribs. In the past, in the manufacture of furniture, fastening with dowels was widespread.

Sometimes there is a need to urgently fix an object on the wall, but there is no ready-made factory-made dowel at hand. In this case, you can independently cut it out of any dry piece of wood. A leg from a chair or stool will do. This has always been done before, for the reason that there were no plastic dowels on sale. For a homemade dowel, it is advisable to chamfer on one side to make it easier to hammer into the wall.

In order to screw the self-tapping screw into the wooden dowel, it is necessary, after driving it into the wall, to drill a hole in its center with a diameter slightly less than the diameter of the threaded part of the self-tapping screw.

A good dowel can be made from a television cable, in which the central core is insulated from the braid with polypropylene, by cutting off a piece of the required length from it. To do this, you need to remove the outer insulation and screening braid, remove the central core. Next, cut the cut piece of insulation in half by a third of its length. In the uncut part, drill a hole equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. On the outside of the dowel, it is advisable to make notches with a soldering iron so that the dowel does not turn in the wall when the self-tapping screw is tightened.

You will get a dowel, no worse than an industrial design. True, there is a lot of fuss, but if you need only a few, then it makes sense to tinker yourself.

Sometimes, when drilling a hole in a wall, surprises happen. The drill, due to the heterogeneity of the wall material or in case of an unsuccessful hit on the joint of bricks, drills the hole not very accurately, and even much larger than the dowel. The dowel dangles, and in this case it will not be possible to hold the self-tapping screw in the wall. Sometimes the wall is very loose and a large piece of it breaks off. But there is a simple solution that I have been using since time immemorial.

An aluminum or copper wire with a diameter equal to the thread pitch of a self-tapping screw or screw is wound onto the self-tapping screw. It turns out a metal dowel with a thread. Since I came across a dowel with a double thread, I wound the wire in two passes. In such a wire dowel, the self-tapping screw is easily twisted and unscrewed. To exclude the twisting of the wire dowel in the wall, make a file on it on the sides of the face.

The dowel is mounted in the wall as follows. A solution of cement, alabaster, gypsum or other similar mortar is diluted, the drilled hole is filled and a wire dowel is inserted with a self-tapping screw screwed into it until drowning in this solution. If it is hard to insert, you can knock with a hammer.After the solution has solidified, the self-tapping screw can be unscrewed and the required item can be hung on the wall. It will hold on securely.

Sometimes it happens that the hole drilled in the wall with a drill of a given diameter does not ensure a tight fit of the dowel and when screwing the self-tapping screw into the dowel, it turns. In this case, you can use the composition "Liquid nails". From the tube, the drilled hole in the wall is completely filled with mortar and the dowel is immediately inserted into it. After half an hour, you can safely screw the screw into the dowel. Will keep tight.

With the help of liquid nails, according to the above technology, you can also securely fix a plastic standard dowel in a wall lined with a porous material, such as foam concrete.

There are times when the dowel cannot be completely driven into the hole, and it protrudes slightly, but cannot be removed. The protruding part must be removed. It can be cut with a cloth from a hacksaw for metal.

To exclude damage to the wall covering, it is enough to take a small sheet of sandpaper, make a hole in it with a diameter equal to the diameter of the dowel, put it on the dowel with the emery side to the wall and carefully cut it off. The wall covering will remain intact.

Dimensions and specifications

There are 2 types of Drive fasteners - plastic and metal. According to the design characteristics, from plastic they can withstand a load of up to 25 kg, from metal - up to 32 kg.

Plastic dowels can be made from different materials:

All these materials equally meet the requirements for this type of fastener:

strong enough for their purposes;
do not collapse, does not deform over time;
do not lose their properties at temperatures from -40 to + 50C about;
hygienic, not subject to corrosion and oxidation;
do not form condensation, therefore, smudges that spoil the interior are excluded.

Metal products are treated with an anti-corrosion compound and also do not pose problems for the entire service life.

The dowel has a sharp end, which facilitates its introduction into the material during the twisting process. The hat has slots for a Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver bit.

Plastic and metal fasteners are available in two sizes:

from plastic - 12 by 32 mm and 15 by 23 mm;
from metal - 15 by 38 mm and 14 by 28 mm.

How to choose the right dowel winder drill?

The answer to the question: which drill, largely depends on what tool, you will drill the wall. And also - which wall: concrete, brick, plasterboard ..

If you have a drill, then the drill must be with a cylindrical shank.

Shank types

A hammer drill requires an SDS-type shank. It allows you to quickly insert the drill into the hammer drill with a secure hold. SDS - in turn, is subdivided into several types. sds plus is the most common. It has a diameter of 10mm and a length of 40mm. For household needs, it is most often used.

SDS-plus shank drill with flat double flute

A drill for a hammer drill is called a "drill". In addition to the SDS shank, it has one more feature - a special groove for removing drilling products (simply dust) from the hole. Boers are of three types: screw, spiral and flat. The first two are serious tools and are designed for drilling relatively deep or large holes. If you need to drill a wall for household needs with a load of up to 10 kg, then you should stop at the shallow drills.

Pobeditovy tip of drills has various forms of sharpening. Straight configuration - flat triangle - this is a classic sharpening. It can be single and double - with two edges. If you look at it from the end, there will be a cross - two victorious plates are soldered crosswise .. And a tip with a centering spike. This is the best option available to the public. The cleat is designed to align the drill inside the hole. As a result, an unbroken hole comes out.

Classic sharpened victorious drill bit

The type and size of the dowel - length and diameter, we choose in accordance with the expected load and the nature of the wall.

The drill diameter should ideally be equal to the dowel diameter.

The length of the drill is at least 3-5mm more than the required hole depth, otherwise the dowel will not go all the way.

However, often a drill or hammer drill has lateral runout, so the hole is slightly wider. - Especially when drilling with a hammer drill in chiseling mode. - Due to the impact, the wall collapses slightly. And the dowel may not sit tightly as a result.

Concrete wall. The density of concrete is high. The drilling process is carried out in two stages. Initially, we use a drill with a diameter of 1-2 millimeters smaller than the nominal. We drill in percussion mode. Then we take a drill at face value - with a diameter equal to the diameter of the hole. And we drill in shockless mode.

After drilling, it is imperative to clean the hole from dust, which somewhat narrows the hole. Otherwise, it may seem that the dowel does not fit. And if you score, then it will be worse to hold, because it will slip in the hole. To do this, first, with the same drill, you need to drive the hole - with translational movements with the perforator (drill) turned on back and forth. I additionally blow with a rubber bulb (!)

Brick wall or gas silicate wall, drywall. Are prone to chipping, especially when the brick is old

Drilling in such cases must be done with extreme caution. And always in unstressed mode

The primary drill is then taken with a diameter 2-5 mm less from the nominal - depending on the strength of the wall and the depth and diameter of the drilling. If the wall is especially weak, you can drill in 3 steps. Thus, we carry out a gradual transition to the required result. Each time, we check if the dowel comes in. After all, this can happen after the first stage.

And in all cases, try to hold the hammer drill so that the drill goes into the wall at a right angle. Remember to keep an eye on this while drilling. Otherwise, you will get an even bigger "hole".

So, the hole turned out so that the dowel goes freely - with a light hammer blow or finger pressure ... Usually this is normal. The screw in the screw will open the wall of the dowel, and the latter will be well fixed. But if in the end the hole still turned out to be much larger, then first try to insert a dowel one size larger. If it turns out to be large, then the fit of the dowel can be compacted: tile glue, PVA, Rotband ... Let it dry for a day and only then turn the screw. In the end, just wrap the dowel with something: duct tape, paper ... - Just so as not to bristle when hammering. However, putting a lot of weight on the wrapped quality is risky.

disadvantages

The disadvantages include load restrictions. But this is due to the properties of the drywall for which they were created. The dowel itself will withstand much more than drywall can withstand. In this respect, Driva has a multiple margin of safety.

Sometimes the disadvantage is the excessive length of the product. If there is a structure of hard material (concrete, brick, metal) behind the soft drywall, the dowel cannot be screwed in to the end. Then 2 options are possible:

use fasteners for hard materials;
screw in the dowel as far as possible, unscrew it, cut it to length with a metal saw exactly to size and put it back in place.

How to choose a drill for a dowel? Tips from the repairmen

It is argued that in order to plant a self-tapping screw in a foam concrete partition, it is necessary to reduce the diameter of the hole, since with a normal diameter, the self-tapping screw begins to scroll in the hole with the dowel, and nothing attracts. To stop this effect, various fascist methods are used, such as wrapping dowels with electrical tape, putting on cambric and heat shrink tubes, and so on.