A nut jammed: how to unscrew a disc on a grinder?

Pliers are the universal wrench

If there is no particular desire to reinvent the bicycle, but there are rather large pliers at hand - the issue is practically resolved. The technique is suitable in cases where the thread on the bolt does not have serious damage and has not sour.

If the enemy does not give up, in the sense of the pliers do not help, you can simplify your life with a lubricant, for example WD-40. In the absence of such, but if there is kerosene, gasoline, alcohol or other similar liquid, it would be nice to wipe the thread on the bolt and the nut itself with something like that. Or - even better - wrap the compound for ten minutes with a rag soaked in the aforementioned substance.

The disadvantage of the pliers technique is that it is not suitable for large nuts, it simply will not work to grip them. Another drawback is that if you unsuccessfully grasp the nut, you can lick the edges on it, and falling off it, the pliers can damage the thread on the bolt. But to achieve such results, you need to try. The technique is suitable for those who hold instruments in their hands not for the first time.

Why do the bolts break off?

Despite a lot of advantages, threaded connections have one significant drawback: the bolts often break

In an industry such as the automotive industry, threaded connections are widely used. Almost all car parts are assembled using threads. Despite the even greater simplicity and low cost of welding, it cannot completely displace the thread, since the latter has the ability to quickly disassemble the structure.

When a bolt breaks, situations arise when part of it remains in the hole and it is quite problematic to remove it from there

The article discusses the question of how you can get the rest of a torn off bolt from a threaded hole using the example of working with a car's cylinder block.

The upper part of a stripped head bolt can often be unscrewed from the threaded hole, since in 90% of cases the bolts break in the direction of tightening

There are few reasons why bolts fail. The main one is excessive twisting effort. Using long-handled wrenches, tremendous forces can be applied to the bolts, which in the end will lead to an excess of force above the yield point, and the bolt will simply collapse at its weakest point. This is most often the first third of the thread length starting from the head of the bolt.

When assembling some devices, it is important not only to select the correct bolts for the thread and strength class, but also to tighten them with the correct torque. Moreover, it should be no more and no less than what is indicated in the assembly instructions

Usually, the bolt is tightened until it stops, and then tightened.

The tightening force is measured in newtons per meter or in kilogram-force per meter (an outdated method). As is often the case, the craftsmen may not have the right key, and they use what is at hand.

A situation may well arise when a hypothetical bolt, for example, with an M8 thread, which should be tightened with a wrench with a nominal force of 3.8 kgf m, will be tightened with a wrench with a force of 4 kgf m. This could break the bolt. Even a 5% difference in torque will often lead to bolt breakage.

If you attach a bolt to the engine, you can see that its breakdown occurred exactly on the cylinder block, that is, there are remnants of the thread in both the block and the head

The lower part of the bolt remains in the structure. At the same time, since the thread is already in its original place, and the bolt is simply tightened, it can be located in both twisted parts at once.

That is, even disassembling the entire structure could not remove the remnants of the bolt. The only possible solution in this situation is to extract the broken thread in some other way.

It should be understood that when removing the bolt, in no case should the internal thread of the structure be damaged, otherwise it will no longer be possible to screw anything into this hole.

How to remove polyurethane foam from linoleum, doors, plastic windows, hands and clothes - you will be surprised at this method !!!

How to unscrew if it is delayed?

To begin with, let's answer a frequent question: "In which direction is the nut on the grinder unscrewed?"

Remember! You need to unscrew it in the direction of rotation of the disk. Those. if the disc rotates clockwise, then you need to unscrew the nut clockwise.

The easiest way to unscrew the disc holder is to place the wrench and then hit it with a moderate hammer several times.

If that doesn't work, there are alternative methods for solving the problem:

• warm up the fastening mechanism with a torch, which will lead to the expansion of the metal. As a result, the structure will become mobile;
• use a small metal plate to grind the disc down to the nut itself. Continue grinding until its surface touches the nut and begins to twist it;
• insert the steel pipe into the holes of the nut, use it as a lever to unscrew the tightened nut. Do not apply too much force so as not to break the thread;
• lubricate the threads with machine oil such as WD-40. Wait 3-5 minutes and then try unscrewing the mount with a wrench. Using this method, you can get rid of rust inside the landing shaft;
• if you need to remove a circle that has not been used for a long time, you can start tightening the fasteners even more. After that, try again to weaken it;
• boiled or rusted threads on angle grinders can be treated with turpentine, vinegar, white spirit or rust remover. After processing, you need to wait at least 30 minutes, and then try to unscrew the nut again.

If a situation arises when you are left without a key, you can cut down the stuck mount with a chisel or grind it off with a second grinder with a disc for working on metal. After that, you will have to restore the thread, as well as look for a spare nut. If the circle still does not lend itself, you can try to combine different methods. For example, treat the shaft with machine oil, and then start unscrewing the nozzle with a lever or knocking the mechanism with a hammer.

Important! Do not unscrew the mount with great force. This can lead not only to a breakdown of the thread, but also to breakage of the angle grinder body itself.

Unscrewing the hub nut on the VAZ: "burn, beat and twist!"

Now let's consider the methods that may be the only effective in your case, but from this they are no less radical, even barbaric.

Strong hammer blows

You hit the hub - you hit the bearing! If you carry out a replacement, then go ahead! If you value the bearing, avoid this method.

Warming up the hub nut with a burner. Not recommended!

Burner use

The law of physics is guaranteed to work, and the body (read: hub nut) will expand. And this will greatly facilitate the removal of the stubborn part. There is one "but": not only this one part is heated, but everything else, in the area of ​​the burner. For example, a bearing. And this is better not to be allowed. As a more gentle option, we can suggest using a soldering iron and ... patience. You will need it.

Jumping on the lever

A chisel will help to tear off the hub nut

The "method" is fraught with the danger of unexpected breakage of nut edges, key breakage, and so on. Just don't do that.

Take a chisel, make notches on the edges

The increase in diameter, of course, makes the hub nut unsuitable for further use, but it will be easy to unscrew it.

If the nut is stuck to the shaft - unscrew it using chemicals

A fairly effective, efficient method is the application of chemicals to neutralize the resulting rust. Experts advise making a mixture of kerosene, white spirit.Then it is required to moisten a cotton or gauze material in the solution and apply it tightly to the place of the permanent connection.

It is advisable to cover it with a bag or fix it with plasticine so that the solution does not erode. You need to wait at least an hour. If you have time, leave it overnight. Then, using the usual method, we try to untwist the fasteners. Slight tapping on the base is allowed (make sure not to break the thread).

A more effective rust remover is a mixture of sulfuric acid, water and zinc.

Note:

Specialized products are also sold in car dealerships. You can also use WD-40, with a long exposure (more than 4 hours), and periodic additional wetting with the same grease.

How to unscrew?

For every case when it is not possible to remove a nut from a bolt or stud for the reasons indicated above, there are proven ways to correct the situation. It will be useful to learn about them for motorists and other people who have to deal with the repair of equipment.

The edges are torn off

The following tools can help here:

• a head with an appropriate size (especially in cases where not all edges of the edges on the nut are torn off);
• gas wrench;
• pliers or pliers (with small fasteners);
• special extractor for nuts with stripped edges.

If these tools do not cope with the task, then more time-consuming measures need to be applied:

• restore the edges by filing with a file or cutting with a grinder (you will get a turnkey edge of a smaller size);
• weld another on a nut with licked edges - with clear edge boundaries;
• when the problem is in the torn edges of the stud or bolt, then you can weld a T-pin to the head of these fasteners and use a lever to try to unscrew them.

Rusty fasteners

Sometimes it is possible to unscrew the rusty parts of fasteners after tapping them with a heavy object, as well as soaking the rust with kerosene or special means.

Broken thread

In cases with stripped threads, neither the tools nor all the repair measures described above for stripped edges and rust can help. If there is free access to problem areas, then a special tool called a nut cutter may come in handy. With its help, the nut with the stripped thread is split in half and removed from the bolt, and then a new one is screwed in its place. If the thread on the pin is broken, then you have to completely remove the connection.

This problem can be easily solved - the hairpin or pin is cut off together with the torn thread.

Unfortunately, many of the named methods are not suitable for solving this problem in a hard-to-reach place. In such places, drastic measures are most often taken - either they cut off the fasteners completely, or dismantle them in parts (for example, cut off a nut, and then drill out a pin or hairpin).

How to unscrew the hub nut - basic 5 ways

To solve the problem of how to unscrew the hub nut, it is necessary to determine the method of dismantling. This can be done in one of two main ways:

1. With the wheel removed.
2. The car is on wheels.

It's important to know:

It is important to ensure that safety precautions are taken when loosening the hub lock nut. Under heavy load, the vehicle can move and injure the technician.

To prevent this from happening, we use stops. They are installed under the wheels on both sides. The parking brake must also be applied. So we will ensure the retention of the car body in a given position.

If the nut does not loosen, we make a choice taking into account the following possible methods:

You can quickly unscrew the stuck element if you provide a lever. It is mounted on a ratchet with a small pry bar. You can use a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter with a length of at least 1 meter.

How to put the disc on the grinder correctly + (Video)

Grinding discs have different diameters, different thicknesses and different uses. Some are made for metalworking, others for ceramics, and still others for woodwork.

It is necessary to install a disc of such a size on the grinder, which will not exceed the size of the protective casing. The size of the installed disk is indicated in the instructions and on the marking table of the grinder.

The thickness of the disc is selected according to the technological parameters of the material being processed. All discs (grinding wheels) have their own classification. Disc shape, material abrasiveness, grain size, hardness, accuracy class and imbalance class are classified. It is the last value that is responsible for the fact that some discs begin to beat during operation.

The grinding wheel has a front and a back. The front side is the one on which the manufacturer's markings and corporate drawing are applied. When installing on a grinder, the front side should be on top.

Installs the disc in this way. So that during operation, sparks with particles of the processed material flew towards the worker. This is related to a safety issue. If the grinder breaks free from the hands, then it will not fly towards the worker.

Therefore, to work with the grinder, it is imperative to wear protective clothing or a thick apron. Eyes and exposed parts of the face must be protected with a mask or at least protective goggles.

Possible problems for VAZ owners and not only

With long-term exposure to tools and repeated attempts to break the nut, force majeure situations occur, which include:

• edges are licked;
• wear of the coupling head;
• does not withstand the ratchet mechanism;
• the thread on the shaft or locknut is knocked off;
• violation of regulation, tightening torque;
• the bearing is damaged.

We buy a spare lock nut and cotter pin in advance. It is also advisable to have a spare set of special keys before dismantling.

How not recommended to unscrew

Do not try to "rediscover America", the above methods in 99% of cases will help to break the lock nut. You should not try to use the following methods:

• Cut with argon, oxygen or electric welding;
• Strong blows with a hammer or sledgehammer on the end surface;
• Jumping on the lever;
• Impacts on the side, edges, base;
• Exposure to open fire on the part (for example, pouring kerosene over it and setting it on fire).

What about the large caliber?

If you need to unscrew the nut, say, 36 mm, it is not a fact that there is such a large wrench. Especially if the "action" is one-time. But there are no hopeless situations.

A small locksmith vice is quite suitable for our purposes. Their advantage is that they can grip even a fairly thin (4 mm or less) nut.

If there is no vise, but there is a small clamp, it will also do fine. Of course, it is more difficult for her to grab a thin nut because of the "floating" plate. But as a lever, a clamp is much more convenient than a vice.

And also - don't forget about the lubricant! They say the truth: "If you don't grease, you won't go." And, for a snack, the best way to unscrew the nut is not to be lazy, find and use the appropriate key.

What to do if the nut is stuck?

A common problem during the operation of angle grinders is a jammed nut. The first thing to do in such a situation is to determine the direction of rotation of the disc. It is recommended to unscrew the jammed nut in the same direction. There are several most effective ways to solve this problem.

• Use an open-end wrench and socket. To do this, it is necessary to grind off the surface of the open-end wrench by 4 millimeters, which has 17 millimeters. Carve four projections on the head of the end face 24 mm, which will align with the holes of the flange nut. Then an open-end wrench is positioned under the disc and the end head is placed on the nut of the angle grinder. After that, the ratchet should be turned in the direction of rotation of the disc.
• Apply a gas wrench. Knowing the laws of physics and using a gas key, you can increase the moment of force, since the length of the arm will increase.

• Use a puncher. If you set the hammer drill in chiseling mode without the rotation function, then it will work on the principle of a jackhammer. A six-millimeter drill is placed on the flanged end and work begins. After the nut has moved, it can be easily unscrewed with a special wrench for the grinder.
• Warming up. If the nut is heated with a technical hair dryer or a gas burner, then the metal will become more malleable. You just have to unscrew the nut with a wrench. But during the heating process, care must be taken not to damage the plastic parts and the gearbox.
• Breaking a disc is an easy and quick way to unscrew a jammed nut without a wrench. It implies a complete shredding of the disk. For this purpose, it is worth using a hacksaw or pliers. When only the inner ring remains of the abrasive wheel, clamp the unnecessary metal plate in a vice (its thickness should not exceed the thickness of the disc). Next, you need to start the angle grinder and grind off the abrasive to the landing sleeve. Remember to use protective goggles and gloves when doing this. Then it remains only to unscrew the flange nut by hand.

Reasons for biting

As a rule, such a problem occurs on angle grinders with a working surface diameter in the range of 150-180 mm. When a strong torque occurs, the disc bites. This leads to the fact that the attachment cannot be removed with a conventional wrench, even with the application of serious physical effort.

The second common reason is the use of a grinder disc that does not correspond to the factory parameters of the tool. This leads to a disruption in the operation of the entire mechanism and jamming. In rare cases, the nut does not lend itself to loosening when rust appears on its threads. This most often occurs during prolonged use of the instrument or storage without changing the accessory.

Important! Discs for angle grinders are produced in standard sizes, the diameter varies from 115 to 230 mm. The landing shaft itself is produced with a diameter of 22.2 mm; when using older models, an adapter is required

Which way the hub nut is unscrewed

Yes, it may very well be that you are one of the lucky ones who will not need extra effort, as the problem with loosening the hub nut may simply be in the wrong direction.

So, we take the crank and, when your car is far from new, try, if the nut does not lock, on the left wheel - unscrew the nut counterclockwise, and on the right - clockwise. In modern brands, usually both on the left and on the right, you need to unscrew the hub counterclockwise.

Before you start unscrewing the hub nut, do not forget that it breaks off when the machine is on its wheels, and there are stops under them. On the side from which the nut will be unscrewed, the stop is securely installed.

Although if the nut is located deep, and the brake disc is ventilated, then you can try to unscrew (fixing with a powerful screwdriver) and so, only making sure that the car is reliably insured. Remember also about your personal safety: protect your eyes, do not be too zealous, because in the swagger, you can accidentally injure yourself or spoil the car body.

Unfortunately, in most cases, it is not enough to use a wrench with a large lever; you have to use additional tools, special mixtures. Let's consider the rest of the options.

When the fastener bolt turns

It rarely happens when a bolt turns in a threaded hole, how to unscrew it, we will consider in more detail.

First you need to pry the product with a nail puller and try to pull it out as high as possible. Leaving the connection in tension, slowly turn it out with a key. If a nailer is not available, you can use a screwdriver. If the bolt is small, you can remove it with pliers.

The head is clamped and pulled upward with force. If it was not possible to remove the bolt immediately, then start rotating the head clamped by the pliers counterclockwise, without loosening the upward force.

These lubricants are designed for rubbing parts. If you lubricate a bolt or nut with them, over time the grease will harden and will be more difficult to unscrew than a rusty bolt. It is better to lubricate the bolts and nuts when tightening them with graphite grease.

You can buy it at any car dealership.

I hope that the article was useful and helped you find a way out of a difficult situation.

Effective ways to unscrew a rusted bolt or nut?

If we consider more effective ways to deal with rust, it is worth highlighting the following methods.

Heat.

From the physics course, we know that metal tends to expand against the background of an increase in temperature. This feature can be used to solve the problem at hand.

To unscrew a rusted nut, warm it up well, then immediately try to unscrew it.

It is important here to act quickly so that the metal product does not have time to cool down. The essence of the manipulation is that due to uneven heating, rust is deformed and has less restraining force.

Heating can be carried out in any available way. This could be a gas torch, candle, lighter, or even a soldering iron.

You can also use a blowtorch or other device.

When using this technique, be careful and remember about contraindications. In particular, heating is not recommended if wood or paintwork products are located in the connection area.

In this case, the part will be damaged, and you will have to spend money on its replacement.

Tapping.

You can unscrew a rusted nut or bolt using the folk method - by tapping around the perimeter of the part.

Mechanical action on each side allows to achieve greater deformation, contributing to the crumbling of rust.

Be careful not to damage the edges of the nut when tapping. Otherwise, the unscrewing task will become more difficult.

Twist.

You can also go the other way. First, tighten the nut (bolt) with maximum effort, and then try to swing the joint and displace the rust layer in this way.

If the manipulation is successful, it will not be difficult to unscrew the nut or bolt.

Wax cup (difficult, not practical, but possible).

This technique cannot be called popular, but in terms of efficiency it does not lag behind "competitors".

The algorithm of actions is simple. Blind a cup-shaped form of plasticine or wax so that its sides are above the level of the nut (about 2-3 mm).

After diluting the sulfuric acid, pour the liquid into the prepared cup and add a little zinc. This chemical combination provides a galvanic effect and the ability to unscrew the part.

Destruction.

If none of the above methods gave results, and the upper part broke or was severely deformed, there remains one more solution - the destruction of the bolt and its drilling out of the vehicle part.

Here, to complete the work, you will need a hand or electric tool, as well as a set of drills of a suitable diameter.

Before drilling, place the drill bit in the center of the bolt and hit it with a hammer. This is necessary to deepen the product in the central part to a certain depth.

At first, work in small steps and make sure that the drill goes exactly in the central part (tilting to the left and right side is prohibited).

Start with a small diameter drill, and then take a larger piece.

When choosing a drill, pay attention to two criteria - price and country of origin. Please note that high quality products cannot be cheap, because hardened steel is used in their manufacture, and sharpening is done in a certain way

Please note that high quality products cannot be cheap, because hardened steel is used in their manufacture, and sharpening is done in a certain way.

At the same time, special drills do an excellent job with aluminum, cast iron and other materials (including fragile ones).

To ensure correct drilling, use special lubricants, thanks to which it is possible to solve several problems at once - to protect the drill from strong heat, cool the metal and lubricate the drilling elements. As a result, the whole process is facilitated.

How to unscrew the nut of the grinder disk (angle grinder) if it is bitten

So, if there is no way with the key, even if you insert it and hit it slightly with a hammer, then we begin to use something more serious.

The first thing to try, but again without fanaticism, is to take a rod, insert it into the holes on the nut and, using a hammer, move the nut in the direction of its untwisting. The main thing here is not to break the button and not to rip the holes, as here

The second thing that many advise is to warm the nut. We warm up the nut. As a result, it is slightly, but physically still obliged to expand. Resizing may or may not help ...

Do not pull all the way until the scroll hold button stopper or the button itself bursts. In this case, it is not the tool with which you unscrew it that breaks, but often the case of the angle grinder.

The third method is the most effective, and oddly enough, one of the safest for the grinder itself. We take and break off the edges of the disc along the nut.

Next, we use a thin metal plate or another disc (thinner), and maybe a second grinder with a disc. In this case, the broken disc must be turned either with a plate or a disc. We try to sharpen the disc so as not to damage the nuts holding this disc, because they will still be useful to us. So we sharpen the whole broken circle until we grind it off and the nut is unscrewed.

This business is 4-5 minutes, no more.

If you will be using a second disc or metal plate, it is best to insert them in a vise to hold them. Since it is dangerous to hold such objects with your hands. This is the most effective method!

How to rip a hub nut from a thread - radical methods for VAZ owners

Sometimes power options are not enough, especially this is observed on cars of the VAZ family, where bearings are often adjusted. In this case, auto mechanics are advised to switch to radically aggressive dismantling methods:

• Break the fasteners with a chisel, hammer or nut splitter / nut splitter;
• A number of holes are drilled along the locking groove;
• Preheat the connection with the fire of a gas burner;
• Solve the issue by welding (welding a similar nut or larger).

It's important to know:

Before starting work - prepare new spare parts. Further operation of the removed part is impossible

If dismantling is done by heating, it will be necessary to check the serviceability of the wheel bearings.