The use of graceful boutelois in landscape design
Boutellois graceful is considered one of the most beautiful cereal plants to create the effect of wild steppes or prairies. Also, the culture can be planted in landscape groups and original massifs. Grain will become a beautiful accent, complement paths or lawn plantings. Can be combined with other cereals to form sophisticated flower gardens.
If there are dry soils on the territory, they can be sown with this crop to form beautiful lawns. Also an interesting solution is to plant a bush in large boxes, add stone flower girls or pots. You can decorate terraces and recreation areas with cereal. Cut spikelets are used to form dry bouquets that look great on summer grounds, in gazebos.
Caring for ruella at home
How to care for ruelia
The ruella will not require special care from you, especially if you arrange it well. For normal growth and development, this plant needs bright diffused light, so it is better to place it on the eastern and western windowsills. If you have to keep the ruella by the south window, provide it with shade from direct sunlight, at least in the sultry afternoon hours: underneath the ruelle leaves will fade.
If there is not enough light, then the length of internodes will increase, and the ruelia will take on a painful appearance.
In the shaded interior, the spectacularity of the leaves of the plant is more pronounced, but on the other hand in good light ruelia blooms more luxuriantly, so try to find a place for it to stimulate plants to show maximum decorativeness.
In the warm season, ruella normally feels at the usual temperature for a home, and in winter it prefers a cooler content - 16-18 ˚C.
Watering and feeding ruella
Water the plant as soon as the top layer of the potted substrate dries up. Soil moistening should be systematic, but not too abundant. The entire earthen lump should not be allowed to dry out, since the plant may lose the lower leaves: as soon as the foliage loses its turgor and sags, immediately water the ruella. Water for irrigation should be not cold - a couple of degrees warmer than the temperature in the room - and kept at least for a day.
Despite its tropical origin, ruella does not require regular spraying, but dry air is also not good for it, so keep the plant as far away from heating appliances as possible, and if this is not possible, then place the flower pot on a tray with wet pebbles in this way so that water does not enter the ground through the drain holes in the pot.
Caring for ruella at home involves the introduction of dressings into the substrate. It is advisable to mix fertilizers into the soil when transplanting ruelia, and 2-3 months after changing the substrate, you can start feeding: once every 2 weeks, apply a solution of combined fertilizer for ornamental indoor plants.
In the photo: Blooming red ruella
Ruella transplant
Growing ruelia involves replanting it regularly as it grows from a smaller container to a larger one. At a young age, ruelia requires an annual change of pot and substrate, and an adult plant is transplanted as needed, when its roots have fully mastered the volume of the pot.
The plant tolerates this procedure most easily during the period from the beginning of March to the end of May. A mixture of equal parts of humus, sand, leafy and soddy soil is suitable as a substrate for ruelia, although ordinary commercially available universal soil can be used, however, a little vermiculite should be added to it.
I must say that ruelia grows quickly, but if you want to keep this plant in your home collection, you will have to systematically cut its shoots and root them.
Reproduction of ruella
Ruella is propagated vegetatively: the apical cuttings of the plant are rooted in water at a temperature of 20-25 ˚C, and when roots grow on them, the cuttings are planted in a wide shallow pot and grown like a bush of an adult ruella, not forgetting to pinch the tops for better tillering shoots.
In the photo: Growing ruelia
It is even easier to propagate ruella by layering: put another pot filled with substrate to the ruella pot, bend the low-growing shoot of the plant, put it in a nearby pot and fix it. When the shoot has taken root in the soil, separate it from the mother plant and grow it as a stand-alone plant.
A seed method of reproduction of ruelia is also possible, however, it is not so easy to acquire its seeds, besides, ruelia from seeds will require more effort and time from you.
Flowering ruelia
As we already wrote, ruelia blooms only in good lighting, but for a long time and abundantly. The flowers of ruella, opening in the morning, wither by the middle of the day, but the plant immediately forms other flowers. You can make the ruella bloom all year round by installing an additional light source above it in winter.
Home care for ifaeon
In natural conditions, flowering at ifaeon is observed at the end of the spring period. After that, the plant begins a dormant period. At the beginning of the autumn period, young shoots appear at the plant. In this regard, it is better to postpone the purchase of bulbs intended for planting until the end of summer. If the bulbs are stored longer, then they may dry out.
Earth mixture
Suitable soil is light and should contain a lot of leaf humus. Do not forget to make a good drainage layer at the bottom of the container. Plant the onion, burying it 5 centimeters into the soil. Drizzle with lukewarm water. It is recommended to plant several bulbs at once in one container. The first flowering is not as abundant as the subsequent ones, because the bulbs gradually grow.
Flowering features
Flowers similar to stars consist of 6 petals. They have a very delicate and spectacular color, and with abundant flowering, an extremely picturesque picture is created. For the entire flowering period, 1 bulb is capable of throwing out several peduncles. If several bulbs were planted in a container at once, then flowering can last about a month or even longer. When the plant fades, all the leaves dry out.
Illumination
It is recommended to place in a sunny place, and therefore it is better to choose a south-facing window. In autumn and winter, the ifeion should also be placed in a well-lit place, otherwise the foliage may lie down.
How to water
Watering should be done regularly, but not very abundantly. Between waterings, the top layer of the substrate should dry out. Irrigation water can be used with any hardness.
Fertilizer
The first time the plant is fed at the end of winter. Before flowering begins, you need to have time to fertilize the soil 2 or 3 times. For this, any fertilizer for indoor plants is suitable. After flowering begins, fertilizing the soil should be stopped, and the flower should also be watered abundantly.
Dormant period
After the end of flowering, the foliage begins to turn yellow and dry. From this time on, the plant is not watered, it begins a dormant period that lasts until the end of the summer period. Dried leaves must be carefully cut off. During the dormant period, the soil must be occasionally moistened in order to avoid drying out of the bulbs. In this case, the flower pot itself is recommended to be rearranged in a fairly dark and cool place. The appearance of new leaves occurs at the beginning of the autumn period. The pot is moved to a well-lit place and the plant is again watered.
Reproduction methods
It can be propagated by dividing the bulbous nest, as well as by seeds. The division of the bulbs and their transplantation is carried out 1 time in 3 years. Daughter bulbs bloom in the 2nd year. Full maturation of seeds occurs 6 weeks after the beginning of the flowering period.A flower grown from seeds begins to bloom only at 3 years of age.
Pellionia
A genus such as Pellionia is directly related to the nettle family (Urticaceae). In this genus, there are about 50 species of herbaceous plants that are perennials.
They can have both erect and creeping stems, which are strongly branching at the base. In nature, they can be found in the tropical zones of Polynesia, as well as East Asia. Only a couple of species of this plant can be grown at home.
And all because the conditions for their cultivation there are extremely unfavorable.
Pellionia daveauana
It has bare, rather thick shoots, painted in a pale brown color, and on them are alternately asymmetric broad-lanceolate leaves with heart-shaped bases, as well as short cuttings. The surface of the leaves is smooth, slightly gorbate, and they reach 4–6 centimeters in length. They have an unusual and beautiful color.
A rather wide, longitudinal stripe of a pale, greenish-grayish color runs right in the center. And along the edge of the leaves are painted in a dark, almost black, shimmering purple color. The seamy side of the leaf is green-gray.
On creeping stems, roots are formed in places where the nodes touch the soil surface, due to this, a fairly rapid growth occurs in all directions.
Beautiful Pellionia (Pellionia pulchra)
It has a smaller size compared to Pellionia Davo, and also a completely different color. The maximum length of the leaves is 4 centimeters. On the gray-silver face of the leaf, there are dark green stripes along the veins. The seamy side is grayish pink.
Both species have small white-green flowers, collected in loose inflorescences in the form of umbrellas and are not of any decorative value. Home-grown plants tend to be pruned.
Pellionia care at home
This plant is unpopular among gardeners, despite the fact that it is not very demanding to care for and is often found in specialty stores.
How to water
Throughout the year, abundant systematic watering is needed. To do this, use slightly lukewarm and settled water. The soil in the flower pot should be slightly damp all the time, but not wet. Stagnant water in the soil negatively affects the root system.
Description of mosquito grass
Graceful Bouteloua (Bouteloua gracilis), or as it is also called mosquito grass, is a herbaceous cereal plant widespread in America. In our area, the culture is used as an ornamental shrub. The total number of types of culture is more than 40, but only the Graceful one feels good in our climatic zone. It is her description and growing rules that will be considered.
The culture is characterized by incredibly dense and open sod, which gradually expands in breadth. The height of the cereal is up to 0.5 meters, sometimes not more than 0.2 meters. The modest size makes it possible to use the bushes even to decorate miniature territories. The maximum grain diameter is no more than 0.4 meters.
A distinctive feature of the decorative beauty is the presence of one-sided spikelets in the inflorescences, their shape is very similar to propellers, if we consider the culture from afar. Spikelets are located in a horizontal direction, decorating the top of the shoots. The flowering of the cereal falls in June and lasts until September. Immediately after blooming, the spikelets are red, but closer to autumn they become straw-golden.
External description
The height of the fruiting body of yellowish Spathularia (Spathularia flavida) varies in the range of 30-70 mm, and the width is from 10 to 30 mm. In shape, this mushroom resembles an oar or spatula. Its pedicle expands in the upper part, becoming clavate. Its length can be 29-62 mm, and its diameter is up to 50 mm. The very leg of the yellowish pastularia can be either straight or sinuous, cylindrical in shape.The fruiting body often descends on both sides along a well-defined stalk. At the bottom, the surface of the leg is rough, and at the top it is smooth. In color, the fruit body is both pale yellow and deep yellow. There are specimens with a honey-yellow, yellow-orange, golden color.
The mushroom pulp is fleshy, juicy, tender, more dense in the area of the leg. Spatularia yellowish (Spathularia flavida) The mushroom spatula has a pleasant and light mushroom smell.
Single-celled needle-like spores are 35-43 * 10-12 microns in size. They are located in 8-piece club-shaped bags. The color of the spore powder is white.
Application, medicinal properties and harm podbela
Podbel ordinary is not included in the State Pharmacopoeia of the Russian Federation due to its toxicity, however, traditional healers use the plant to treat hypertension, tuberculosis, rheumatism, gynecological diseases of an inflammatory nature, as well as to alleviate asthma.
Fresh podbele leaves are used as an external agent in the treatment of infected wounds, ulcers and diaper rash. Medieval doctors tried to use them to fight against the plague.
The use of podbel in folk medicine is based on the property of andromedotoxin to significantly reduce high blood pressure. It is also effective to use the plant as a means:
- antiseptic;
- bactericidal;
- astringent.
However, the main active ingredient is podbela is a serious neurotoxin, which first excites the central nervous system, and then strongly inhibits it, up to death. Andromeda is strictly forbidden to use for independent use, especially for persons with chronic hypotension.
Podbel's main active ingredient is a serious neurotoxin.
Healing recipes with underbelly
Self-medication with andromeda drugs is strictly prohibited. Even a rubbed sheet applied to a wound can provoke a negative reaction of the nervous system. People who know exactly the safe dosages, folk healers prepare an infusion from the podbele leaf.
To do this, take a teaspoon of crushed leaves, pour a glass of boiling water, cover and leave for 15-20 minutes. Take a teaspoon before meals for the treatment of tuberculosis and gynecological diseases.
Self-medication with andromeda drugs is strictly prohibited
Blooming thickets are whitened in the forest or in the garden - a cute, nerve-calming sight. Poisonous andromeda is not very easy to use as a natural medicine, but with its appearance it gives true pleasure.
Read more: 1. Ambrosia: description, flowering and control of the plant 2. Poisonous milestone: description, use in folk medicine and medicinal properties 3. Wolf's bast: useful properties, description, photo, treatment, rules for poisoning
Almond propagation
Varietal almonds can only be propagated by layering, grafting and shoots, and species almonds can also be propagated by seeds. Some gardeners grow rootstocks on their own, and then they are grafted with varietal cuttings.
Growing almonds from seeds
Sowing seeds is done in open ground, and this can be done in spring or autumn. It should be noted that before starting sowing in the spring, the seeds should be prepared, for this they are placed in the refrigerator on a vegetable shelf for four months. Make grooves in the soil, the depth of which should be from 8 to 10 centimeters, while keeping a distance of 10 to 12 centimeters between the seeds. The gap between the grooves should be 50 centimeters. The almond seedlings that appear need care, which consists in timely watering, weeding and loosening the soil surface. In summer, when the seedling reaches half a meter in height, and the thickness of its stem is 10 mm, all its branches that grow up to 10 centimeters from the root collar must be cut into a ring. Then the plants are transplanted to a permanent place. As soon as they get sick, you can start grafting varietal cuttings on them.
Almond grafting
Rootstocks of any of the species of this plant are suitable for grafting, but it is recommended to take those of them that are highly frost-resistant. Almonds grow well on rootstocks of cherry plum, bird cherry, blackthorn or plum. A suitable graft must be straight, have well-developed stems with eyes that must be fully formed. All foliage should be removed from the cutting with a pruner, only short centimeter-long petioles should be left.
This shrub can be propagated by grafting only at a time when sap flow is observed, namely: in spring or in August. The rootstock, which should grow in open ground, should be gently wiped with a damp cloth, thereby removing dust and dirt from it. Then, slightly above the root collar, a T-shaped incision must be made using an eyepiece knife. And then gently turn the incised bark to the sides. From the scion, a scute should be cut, which is a strip of bark with a bud and a thin layer of wood. It should be noted that the flap must fit entirely into the T-cut you made earlier, so you do not need to make it too long. When the flap is inserted, press down on the edges of the bark that were previously unfolded. To fix the shield, you can use an eyepiece tape, tape or plaster, while it is enough to make just a few turns around the stem. At the same time, remember that the kidney with the remainder of the petiole should not be closed.
If the vaccination was carried out in the spring, then after half a month the petiole from the kidney, which should still be green, should fall off by itself, while the eyepiece tape should be slightly loosened. In the event that the grafting was carried out in August, then the tape should not be removed until the next autumn period, while in late autumn the grafted seedling must be covered with soil (the grafting site must be covered with earth). With the onset of the spring period, it is necessary to remove the soil so that the root collar is free, and the fixing tape is also removed.
Cuttings
Planting material for cuttings should be prepared from mid to late June. For this, semi-lignified apical cuttings are cut, on which there should be 2 nodes, their length varies from 15 to 20 centimeters. Then the cuttings must be immersed in a growth stimulating agent for 16 hours. They should be rooted in a cold greenhouse. For planting, a soil mixture consisting of peat and sand (2: 1) is used. Cuttings will take root completely after 20-30 days. According to statistics, 85-100 percent of cuttings take root. When roots appear, the cuttings will need to be transplanted into a training bed for growing.
How to propagate by growth
In order to provoke active growth of the growth around the shrub, a strong pruning should be done. The separated offspring must have a fully formed root system, and this will only happen in the second year. The offspring transplanted to a permanent place must be looked after in the same way as a one-year-old seedling.
How to propagate by layering
It is necessary to bend flexible stems to the soil surface, fix them with metal studs, and then sprinkle with earth. During that time, while the root system is forming at the cuttings, they should be provided with timely watering, weeding and loosening of the soil surface. It will be possible to separate the layers and put it in a permanent place only after 12 months. During this time, the root system should be fully formed.
Galezia species suitable for the middle lane
Choosing the right type of galezia is the key to growing it successfully. Without exception, all galezia (chalesia) become more hardy over time, their winter hardiness increases. But for regions with severe winters, you need to choose those species for which the "initial" frost resistance is good enough. Only two types of galezia are considered suitable for our conditions - Caroline and mountain. They can withstand frosts down to -28 ..- 29 degrees.
Galesia (halesia) carolina (halesia carolina) are tall shrubs that bloom irregularly and largely depend on the weather: in severe winters they can freeze over and not bloom, in normal winters they develop rapidly and turn into beautiful, powerful, attractive bushes. This galezia forms straight, thickened, bright brown and powerful trunks and pyramidal, wide crowns. Leaves are elliptical, up to 10 cm long and are arranged alternately on the shoots.
Galezia blooms only at the end of May, and in cold spring - at the beginning of June. By the time the flowering is complete, the plant is already blooming with light green, bright young leaves. Snow-white bells with four petals reach 1.5 cm in length, hanging down on the thinnest pedicels among the leaves. There are Caroline galezia with a pale pink color of inflorescences. The flowering period never exceeds 15 days.
Despite the fact that galezia are considered exotic, they manage to form tetra-winged fruits even in regions with severe winters. By the end of August, large, very beautiful silvery fruits up to 3.5 cm long ripen on the branches, which seem to glow on the branches.
In addition to the basic plant, the Caroline Chalesia also has decorative varieties:
- ‘Mollis’ with more lush and large foliage, not elongated-elliptical, but wide, with a beautiful edge on the underside;
- variety "Rosea" with pink inflorescences similar to the watercolor vision;
- ‘Meehanii’ form with brighter, rich green leaves, whose surface is not smooth, but wrinkled, and deeply dissected corollas of inflorescences, giving way to diptera fruits;
- 'Dialypetala' shape with almost one-piece bell-shaped corolla of the flower.
Mountain halesia (halesia monticola, today re-qualified as halesia tetraptera, but we sell it under the old species name) is a rarer arboreal, growing up to 30 m in nature, but in culture it is limited to 3-4 m.The plant also blooms in spring , at the end of May, the color of the flowers is yellowish-cream, contrasting beautifully with the darker leaves. Hardy enough, but flower shoots suffer from frost more often than Carolina galezia, and the tree blooms much less stable. The leaves are obovate, with a pointed edge, the flowers are larger, also drooping, collected in bunches.
Khalesia, or Galezia carolina (halesia carolina). Margrit
Limacella coated (Limacella illinita)
Synonyms:
- Limacella smeared
- Agaricus subcavus
- Agaricus illinitus
- Lepiota illinita
- Armillaria subcava
- Amanitella illinita
- Myxoderma illinitum
- Zhuliangomyces illinitus
Actual name: Limacella illinita (Fr.) Maire (1933)
Description
Hat: average size 3-10 centimeters in diameter, variations from 2 to 15 cm are possible. Ovate, hemispherical in youth, conical, then almost prostrate, with a small tubercle. The edges of the cap are thin, almost translucent. Remnants of a mucous veil may hang along the edge.
The color is white, gray, whitish, light brownish or light cream. It is darker in the central part.
The surface of the cap of the smeared limacella is smooth, very sticky or slimy. Very slimy in wet weather.
Plates: adherent with a tooth or loose, frequent, wide, white or pinkish, with plates.
Leg: 5 - 9 centimeters high and up to 1 cm in diameter. Looks a bit disproportionately tall compared to the hat. Central, even or slightly tapering towards the cap. Whole, becomes loose, hollow with age. The color of the leg is whitish, brownish, the same color as the cap or slightly darker, the surface is sticky or slimy.
Ring: a pronounced ring, customary, in the form of a "skirt", no. There is a weakly expressed mucous "annular zone", more distinguishable in young specimens. Above the annular zone, the leg is dry, below it is mucous.
Flesh: thin, soft, white.
Taste: does not differ (no special taste). Smell: perfumery, sometimes mealy is indicated.
Spore powder: white Spores: 3.5-5 (6) x 2.9 (4) -3.8 (5) microns, ovoid, broadly ellipsoid or nearly round, smooth, colorless.
Ecology
Limacella oily (coated) grows in forests of all types, it is found in fields, on lawns or on roadsides, swamps, meadows and sand dunes. Grows on the ground or litter, scattered or in groups, not infrequently.
Season and distribution
Occurs in summer and autumn, from June-July to the end of October. The peak of fruiting occurs in August - September.
Smeared limacella is widespread in North America, European countries, and Russia. In some regions, the species is considered quite rare, in some it is found often, but does not attract special attention of mushroom pickers.
Edibility
Information is extremely contradictory, from "inedible" to "edible mushroom category 4". According to literary sources, it can be eaten fried, after preliminary boiling
Suitable for drying.
We will carefully place this limacella in the category of conditionally edible and remind our dear readers: take care of yourself, do not experiment with mushrooms about the edibility of which there is no reliable information
Variability
Smeared limacella is a rather variable species.
7 varieties are indicated:
- Limacella illinita f. illinita
- Limacella illinita f. ochracea - with a predominance of brownish shades
- Limacella illinita var. argillacea
- Limacella illinita var. illinita
- Limacella illinita var. ochraceolutea
- Limacella illinita var. ochraceorosea
- Limacella illinita var. rubescens - "Reddening" - in places of damage, with a simple touch to the cap or leg, on the break and cut, the flesh turns red. At the base of the stem, the color turns reddish.
Outdoor tree peonies care
How to care
In the event that you do not know the rules for caring for this type of peonies, then you should take care of it in the same way as for a herbaceous one. So, it must be watered in a timely manner and after this procedure it is imperative to loosen the soil and remove weeds. Watering should be done once every 2 weeks, while 1 bush should take from 6 to 7 liters of water. If the weather is hot and dry, then the frequency of watering should be increased. Since August, it is necessary to water less and less each time until it stops completely. When the plant is watered, the soil near the bush within a radius of 50 centimeters must be thoroughly loosened (the depth of loosening is not more than 5 centimeters). Pull up all the weeds and sprinkle the soil with mulch (humus).
Fertilizer
These plants simply need a large amount of nitrogen and potassium for normal growth and development. When the period of intensive growth is just beginning, such plants need nitrogenous fertilizers, and from the moment the budding begins and before the growing season ends, tree peonies need a large amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. When the flowering period begins, the plant will need both phosphorus and potassium, and nitrogen. But at the same time, do not forget that an excess of nitrogen in the soil can cause the development of gray rot. In order not to burn the root system with fertilizers, before applying them to the soil, it must be well watered.
Pruning features
Pruning must be done in the spring before the start of the period of intensive growth. In this case, you need to cut off the dried stems. Old shoots must be cut so that about 10 centimeters remain. Florists in China have learned to rejuvenate the tree peony. To do this, once every 20 years, they cut a bush almost to the surface of the ground. As a result, the adventitious buds awaken at the very base of the stems. In order for the flowering to be more abundant next year, you need to trim the stems to the upper axillary bud. How long your peony will live is influenced by the correct pruning. These plants can live to a very respectable age, as a rule, up to a hundred years or even more. In China, there are copies that have already exceeded 500 years, while they are protected both by specialists and by law.
Transplant of tree peonies
Such a peony has a very negative attitude towards the transplant. So, it happens that a transplanted very strong plant can hurt for several years, because it is very difficult for it to recover. During the transplant procedure, you need to be very careful with the bush.
So, it must be very carefully dug out together with a lump of earth, which is then gently washed off with a not very strong jet of water.Then you need to inspect the root system
If there are rotten roots, then they should be cut off, and too long are shortened at the same time. It is necessary to process the cut sites with a solution of potassium manganese (1%), and then sprinkle with chopped charcoal. If necessary, you can divide the rhizome, thereby multiplying the peony. To do this, you need to stretch the parts of the bush with your hands to the sides at the root collar. In the event that there are cuts on the rhizome, then they must be processed. Each of the divisions should have roots and replacement kidneys (several pieces). Before the delenki are planted in open ground, they must be immersed in a clay mash for 30 minutes.
Caring for a nocturnal garden
Growing nocturnal in open soil is quite simple, like most other horticultural crops. Watering should be carried out regularly, while after it and after rain, it is sometimes necessary to loosen the soil surface. After the appearance of weeds, it must be removed immediately, and the bushes are systematically fed. In some cases, due to heavy inflorescences, the stems bend to the surface of the soil, which makes the bushes less attractive. In this case, you will need to install supports, to which the shoots are tied.
Experts advise cutting off the inflorescences immediately after they wither. This culture needs shelter only if a very frosty and little snow winter is expected. The plantings should be covered with non-woven material (lutrasil or spunbond). Spruce paws can also be used to cover the site.
How to water and feed
Watering such flowers is necessary on average 1 time in 7 days, for this they use warm water heated in the sun. During prolonged dry and sultry periods, the frequency of watering should be increased. At the same time, during prolonged rains, watering is suspended, since if the soil is excessively wet all the time, this significantly increases the likelihood that earthen fleas will harm the bushes, since they like to settle on crops belonging to the Cabbage family. It is necessary to water and loosen the soil surface only in the morning.
During the first season, the flowers are regularly fed with a solution of a complex mineral fertilizer, which contains a large amount of nitrogen. In the second year, during the period of bud formation, the plant should be fed with liquid complex fertilizer for flowering plants or phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
Reproduction of nocturnal
Species and varieties with simple flowers can be propagated by seed. But if terry night violets are cultivated, then they are propagated exclusively by dividing the bush, since if you independently collect seeds from the bushes and sow them, then the grown plants will have simple flowers. The division of bushes of terry varieties is carried out at the beginning of the spring period or in the autumn. To do this, the bush is carefully removed from the ground, divided into several parts, and the cuts are processed with crushed charcoal. Then the delenki are planted in pits, which are prepared in advance.
In late autumn, before the first frosts, the soil surface near the plants must be covered with a layer of mulch, which will save the root system from severe frosts in a winter with little snow.
Nocturnal pests and diseases
The night violet is affected by the same diseases and harmful insects as the rest of the Cruciferous family. Such a flower can be harmed by cabbage aphids, cruciferous fleas and bugs, cauliflower stem moth, cabbage moth, caterpillars of turnip and cabbage whiteflies and cabbage scoops, larvae of rape sawfly and cabbage fly and cruciferous gall midge. Insecticides are used to kill harmful insects; they can be bought at a specialized store. Experts advise to try to find a remedy that effectively destroys pests, while not harming the environment.
During the seedling period, seedlings can get sick with a black leg.An older plant sometimes infects keela, peronosporosis, alternaria, sclerotinia, phomosis, botrytis and fusarium, they are also fungal diseases. Also, the night violet can be struck by such bacterial diseases as black rot and vascular bacteriosis. For this culture, viral diseases such as mosaic and ring spot are very dangerous, since today they are considered incurable. In the fight against fungal diseases, fungicides show high efficiency, the choice of which in specialized stores is quite wide. However, those bushes that are affected by viral or bacterial diseases must be removed from the soil and destroyed as soon as possible. The area where the affected bushes were grown for three or four years will not be suitable for growing a single crop.
However, if you adhere to the rules of prevention and provide the plants with proper care, then they will be highly resistant to both harmful insects and diseases.
Rules for planting and caring for boutellois
Buttellois graceful is characterized as a sun-loving plant, so choose such areas for planting it. Areas with diffused lighting are also suitable. The advantage of this cereal crop is that it develops well on scarce soils. Therefore, you do not have to worry about soil enrichment. Also keep in mind that humid areas are also not an option for butelois; dry areas are ideal for it.
Mosquito grass is highly winter-hardy. It is hardy, does not require any shelter during the frosty season.
Since the plant is not demanding, it does not need to be watered in hot weather. Also, the cereal does not need feeding. The only thing that will be required of gardeners is to prevent overgrowth. You also need to clean the sod, it is best to do this procedure in the autumn, although the process is also performed in the spring. When using grass as a lawn, it will have to be mowed low to form a dense coverage. The optimal haircut option is 2 times per season, the height should be about 5 cm.
You don't have to fight pests and diseases. Because the culture is very resilient. The only thing that the plant does not tolerate is damp soils. In such conditions, the culture will rot
How to breed boutelois
Boutellois is easy to reproduce. New cereal plants can be obtained by separating bushes and sods. It is also quite simple that the crop is grown by seed. For sowing, choose garden soil, it should be well warmed up. You can observe the appearance of the first shoots after 14 days.
