Timely pruning of a fuchsia flower at home

Description of the plant

The plant, due to its flexibility, can develop as an ampelous or pyramidal type. Fuchsia is often grown in the form of an elegant standard tree. The ballerina's twigs are plastic, forming a crown that cascades down.

Fuchsia flowers belong to the axillary variety, they are solitary and hang down. Each flower consists of a corolla-shaped bowl, which has four pointed petals. A pistil and bright stamens protrude outward.

Fuchsia was bred more than three hundred years ago: in 1695 by the French botanist C. Plumiere. He named the plant in honor of the German botanist Fuchst, who later developed more than 100 varieties of fuchsia.

The flowers of the ballerina are simple, double and semi-double. They are distinguished by a rich palette of shades: there are white, cream, pink, purple, orange and even purple. There are multi-colored flowers that combine 2-3 tones.

The flowering of fuchsia is long and abundant; in its process, the flower stalks droop for a long time, sloping downward and, ultimately, wither. The ballerina has a powerful and developed root system, thanks to which she easily tolerates transplantation and reproduction. Fruits in small, elongated berries that are edible.

From the fruits of fuchsia, which grows in natural conditions, various tinctures, liqueurs, and also preserves are prepared.

Choosing a season for pruning fuchsia

Initially, the gardener must figure out when to cut fuchsia and for what purpose. Pruning is done in the spring months, until the time when the plant picks up the buds. With proper manipulation, fuchsia will bloom more abundantly and longer. In the fall, the plant can also be cut off. The best period will be the last decade of October or early November. This method is suitable for indoor plants. In autumn, gentle pruning is recommended, which touches the parts of the plant where the peduncles were.

If the plant is still in bloom at this time, it is recommended to postpone the procedure to a later period. Pruning can be done in winter. But fuchsia must be cut off before wintering, when the plant enters a dormant phase. To prevent it from weakening, it is not necessary to cut the shoots to a length of less than 15 centimeters. When the crown is formed, only weak shoots are eliminated. They are thinned out and shortened to 1/3 of the initial height.

Pruning after flowering

After the bush has faded, it is recommended to partially cut the branches. This will give the bush an opportunity to gain strength. The procedure is carried out twice a year: in September and April. First, all wilted and dry stems are removed from the plant. In the next step, the gardener cuts off all young shoots. Then the fuchsia is shaped to the desired shape. The plant can twine around the supports. Therefore, the stems can be braided or intertwined. In the fall, a florist should inspect fuchsia for the absence of pests and diseases. If found, the diseased branch should be cut off with the capture of the healthy part.

In order for the plant to bloom for a long time and abundantly, it needs to gain strength. For this, timely cutting is used. The later the fuchsia branches are pruned, the longer the plant will bloom. It is better to prune the bush in the fall and immediately after wintering. In the autumn months, this is done as a preventive measure. Damaged, thin shoots are removed from the bush.

The procedure is repeated from February to March. Manipulation with pruning of shoots is necessary for the formation of a beautiful crown of the plant. This is done so that the ends of the branches have knotted buds. First, all weak branches are removed. They are unlikely to bloom, and if they do, the bloom will be weak. After that, you need to cut off dry branches and thin shoots.Then there is a pruning of branches, which are directed to the center of the bush. So, the bush will stop thickening and bloom profusely.

Care after pruning

In order for the plant to be healthy, strong, it is important not only to cut it correctly, but also to take care of it after the procedure. After the procedure, you should put a pot with a bush so that scattered sunlight falls on it.

Windows facing the north or east side of the house are best suited. If the plant has little light, then the shoots will weaken, the flowers will be rare, small.

It is important to choose the correct watering regime. Water the fuchsia after pruning in moderation

It should not be poured, but the soil should not dry out. Watering is carried out with soft, settled water. In winter, the flower is watered twice a week, in the spring, once or twice a week.

After the fuchsia has overwintered, it is necessary to introduce top dressing. Fertilize the bush from spring to autumn. For this, you can purchase special formulations for flowering plants. Fuchsia should not be overfed. Otherwise, the bush quickly grows green mass, but blooms poorly. Fuchsia gives all its strength to the growth of leaves and shoots.

You do not need to feed the bush every two weeks. The composition of the dressing should include magnesium and nitrogen. And also for fuchsia, compositions with potassium and phosphorus are useful. Top dressing is applied only to wet soil. Organic compounds are diluted so that the water concentration is twice as high as recommended in the instructions for use. Otherwise, fuchsia will begin to bloom worse, will quickly begin to grow up.

In winter, gardeners recommend completely abandoning fertilizer. With the right approach, the plant quickly recovers after pruning and gains strength. After a couple of months, it begins to actively pick up buds, bloom with bright unusual flowers. Such a plant will decorate a flower garden or home windowsill. Despite the fact that it is a thermophilic flower, it is grown in flower beds and in apartments.

Spring awakening

In mid-February we transplant fuchsia: since it is resistant to constant waterlogging, place a drainage layer on the bottom of the vessel and use a new, loose substrate. During this period, the plant must be thoroughly pruned, otherwise it will be frail and will not bloom.

With fertilization after transplanting, wait at least four weeks. Then you can fertilize every 2 weeks with compositions for balcony plants or a fertilizer specially developed for fuchsia.

Flowers can be taken out into the open air only when the danger of frost has passed, that is, after mid-May. Fuchsias should be placed in a draft-free area where they will bloom beautifully again next fall.

Interesting! Fuchsia is one of the most useful plants. From spring to autumn, its charming flowers adorn semi-shaded areas of gardens and terraces. They usually hibernate in a cool and bright place.

Plants such as fuchsia come in many varieties that differ in appearance. They also have different wintering requirements. Some cannot hibernate except in a cool and lighted place, but others survive the winter even in the dark. Some species can survive the winter in a warm room.

Pruning when wintering fuchsia on the ground

Fuchsia is not recommended for gardening. It does not tolerate frost well, but in rare cases this type of cultivation is also used. Cultivation is possible in the southern regions of the country, where winters are milder than in Siberia. It is best to plant the plant in a flower garden, placing it in a container so that you can dig up the fuchsia when autumn comes.

When the bush hibernates in the flowerbed, the fuchsia is cut as much as possible so that only the strongest branches remain. Don't leave all the plants in the ground. It is recommended to dig up some of them. A month before the onset of frost, the bush is prepared for new conditions. Nitrogen is removed from fertilizers and only phosphorus is left. The grower should reduce the number of waterings and the interval between them.

Plants are kept outdoors until frost. So they will gradually enter the resting phase. Before the procedure, it is necessary to carry out processing with compounds that protect against fungus. After the product is completely dry, you can trim the bushes. Only woody branches remain uncut. Green branches simply won't survive the cold winter.

The bush is examined for weak, diseased, or damaged branches. All leaves are cut off from the branches. All weak and diseased shoots should be cut off. And they also eliminate all crooked appendages. The rest of the branches are cut by a third. Only a few skeletal branches and a trunk are left on the bush. After that, they are examined for pests. Insects gladly eat weakened fuchsia with the beginning of spring.

The plants are dug up and transferred to a box. The roots are shaken off from the soil and wrapped in wet moss. Despite this, fuchsias often die during wintering. Experienced gardeners prepare cuttings in advance in the fall so that there is something to plant in the spring. Planting material can be created from fragments of branches cut when thinning a bush. They are cut into lengths from 5 to 8 centimeters. Such cuttings should be dug into the ground and kept warm for some time. After rooting, they are removed to the balcony before the onset of spring.

Instrument and its disinfection

The gardener should use a knife or garden scissors when handling the plant. Before the procedure, the instrument is disinfected to exclude the development of viruses. Scissors are treated with alcohol (spray, napkins). And also kerosene, potassium permanganate or bleach is used. Instruments are placed in an antiseptic solution for several minutes and wiped off with a clean dry cloth.

Preparing a houseplant for wintering

It is important for each plant to rest from time to time. If fuchsia is in a room with heating, it is fed and watered, as in summer, then the plant will not have the strength to bloom

In addition, the bush grows rapidly and occupies a large area. Before wintering, you should inspect how much the branches have grown.

In the first year of growth, fuchsia should not overwinter with too long shoots. Therefore, they are trimmed short, leaving a length of about 15 centimeters. After the formation of the bush, all weakened and diseased branches are cut off. You should not thicken the bush too much, otherwise it grows poorly. The plant should have only strong shoots, the rest are cut off, leaving 1/3 of the part.

You need to be careful about semi-charcoal forms. Their weak shoots break under weight. Only strong branches are left on the bushes. To switch to winter mode, plants need to lower the temperature to +10 degrees. Therefore, fuchsias are removed to the basement or placed on a glassed-in balcony. In such a room, the temperature should not be below zero so that the houseplant does not die.

If there is no cooler place, then you can simply choose a cold corner in the house. When fuchsia continues to grow, fresh shoots are trimmed with scissors or pinched.

Before leaving wintering, all diseased parts of the plant are cut off and the overgrown branches are removed. To make the crown more lush, after the start of growth, it is recommended to pinch the tops of the shoots. Flowering occurs no earlier than two months after the procedure. In order for the plant to actively release buds in the summer, it is necessary to pinch it no later than April.

Fuchsia in the winter on the balcony. FUCHSIA. We save until spring. Secrets of proper maintenance in winter

Fuchsia has long been known to flower growers. Our grandmothers also gladly decorated their windowsills for her, and in the summer, gardens, terraces, gazebos. Now many beautiful varieties have been bred and interest in this flower is constantly growing. Although this plant is suitable even for novice growers, for successful growth, long flowering, proper care and maintenance must be provided.

Fuchsia Natasha Sinton

1. When placing, keep in mind that the plant does not like bright sunlight.East or north windows will be ideal. High air temperature is also poorly tolerated. Therefore, in the warm season, it is better to take your pet out into the garden or on an open balcony. It can be placed in the shade, in hanging pots, or planted in open ground.

2. Any loose mixture for flowering plants is suitable as a substrate. You can add a little chopped sphagnum moss and leaf humus (teaspoon per pot). Garden soil before use, I recommend calcining in the oven and spilling it with potassium permanganate.

3. I advise planting a flower in a ceramic container with thick walls, in order to avoid overheating of the root system.

4. For irrigation, use well-settled, warm water, if possible, rainwater. In the summer, try not to overdry the earthy coma. Spraying the leaves is also necessary. The quality and duration of flowering depends on this. With a lack of moisture, fuchsia can shed and not open the buds. In winter, on the other hand, watering is reduced, brought to 2 - 3 times a month.

5. Regular fertilizing, mineral and organic, is required. It is very good to alternate root and foliar feeding. In the warmer months, as soon as the buds appear, fertilize every week, and from October, cut back and stop altogether in winter.

variegated fuchsia dymo

6. Fuchsia is susceptible to attacks by whiteflies and spider mites. If found, rinse the leaves immediately and spill with soapy water. Next, treat with a special preparation. Repeat this procedure after a week. In the future, for prevention, use a solution of nettle and garlic.

Proper maintenance is essential for successful growth and even preservation of the specimen in the winter. Try to keep the air temperature up to 15 degrees

Decreases to +5 degrees, not scary for a flower. I noticed that with colder wintering, the plant becomes stronger and blooms more abundantly and more willingly.

During this period, the plant needs pruning. With my pets, I carry out this procedure boldly, leaving 10 - 15 cm of the stem. Cut thin shoots that have awakened periodically. Sometimes buds may appear, be sure to remove them, otherwise, there will be no lush bloom in the spring.

fuchsia Pinto De Blue

It's better not to worry about watering. This is done as rarely and as little as possible. From autumn to spring, the "dancing ballerina" sleeps and it is not desirable to disturb her.

Many people advise removing fuchsia pots in a dark basement during the winter. I didn't succeed, the flower just died, so they are on a regular windowsill, close to the window pane. Whenever possible, I try to open the window or do micro-ventilation.

I hope that many will like this beauty!

Preparation for wintering

In winter, the shrub is dormant.

This transition is due to the adaptation of fuchsia to climatic conditions, when the temperature drops and the sunlight becomes insufficient for normal functioning.

Rest for the plant is necessary to restore the energy spent during the season and prepare for flowering in the next season.

Preparing a shrub for winter storage is as follows:

1. Reducing the amount of watering. This should be done gradually, completely stopping watering within a month. Such an event should begin in September, so that by the first frost the stem and branches are completely dehydrated.
2. Termination of fertilization in any form. Stopping feeding stimulates the shedding of foliage and flower petals. The plant receives a kind of signal that it needs to reduce its activity.
3. Restricting access to light. The pot should be removed away from the window. It is necessary that only natural light reflected from the walls and ceiling falls on it. If this is not possible, then an incandescent lamp that is turned on for several hours a day is suitable.
4. Lowering the air temperature.The flowerpot must be taken out to the glazed balcony, brought into the basement or other room where the air temperature does not exceed + 15 ° C.

It is necessary to reduce the amount of watering in preparation for winter. After that, you need to wait until all the leaves and petals fall off the stems, and they themselves become dry and brittle.

Flower propagation

Reproduction of the bush can be done independently at home. Breeding methods:

• seeds;
• by cuttings.

In the first case, the "new" fuchsia can be very different from the parent plant, since it self-pollinates or bees take part in pollination. When grafting from a shrub, it is necessary to cut off the shoot, the length of which does not exceed twenty centimeters. After the gardener removes the leaves from the bottom of the plant, the root must be placed in purified water. When young roots appear, the cutting should be transplanted into the ground.

When the fuchsia is old enough, it must be transplanted into a larger flowerpot. A transplant should be carried out every year in the fall or spring, providing free space for growing roots.

Propagation by cuttings

Choose a green apical shoot with two or three leaf axils. A well-sharpened knife should cut the shoot at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. Then you need to leave the cutting for literally ten minutes. Large leaves (with a large number of them) should also be cut off to facilitate rooting. Next, you need to "dust" the cut with a root formation stimulator (for example, Kornevin is perfect). You need to root the stalk in a light soil mixture. Then you need to prepare the container and put the moistened mixture into it to a depth of three centimeters, deepen the stalk there and moisten it using a spray bottle. To increase the degree of moisture, you need to use a transparent bag. It is necessary to put a container inside it, inflate a bag, tie it, and then put this whole structure on a well-lit windowsill. In this case, there should be no direct exposure to the sun on the cutting (the optimum temperature is 20-25 ℃). Once a day (or even once every 2 days), you need to untie the bag for the purpose of airing. If necessary, you can spray the cutting and soil, thereby preventing drying out. After about 2 weeks, small roots will appear. With the growth of roots, the cutting can be transplanted into a small container

It is important to use light soil. The pot with the handle inside must be wrapped again with a bag, which does not have to be tied, you can only raise the "walls"

After several days (up to seven), the bag can be removed, given that the plant is not sluggish. If this happens, it is necessary to create conditions that are even closer to those of greenhouses. You need to sprinkle fuchsia, inflate the bag, tie it up and wait for the plant to recover, not forgetting about proper care.

Seed propagation

You need to grow fuchsia with seeds in February, using light soil. You can buy soil at a garden store. However, it is not difficult to make a soil mixture on your own from turf, peat and sand (3: 2: 1). Before sowing, the soil must be compacted, moistened and sprayed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. The tray must be covered with cellophane and placed on a warm and well-lit windowsill. The temperature should be between + 18 ° and + 22 °
It is important to ensure that the rays of the sun do not fall directly on the tray.

If the ground is damp, you need to lift the film several times a day to remove condensation
If the soil is dry, you should carefully spray the soil near the sprout (water should be at room temperature). In about a month, small shoots will begin to appear

At this point, you need to start removing the cellophane from the tray for a long time, so that the seedlings gradually get used to the room conditions, and then the shelter can be removed altogether.

Important! The seeds must be laid out in a tray and distributed over the substrate, not filling them with soil, but only pressing a little into it. If this is not done, then without light the seeds will not be able to germinate .. When the second pair of leaves appears, the sprouts must be dived into separate small containers

It is important to water the plant to keep the soil from drying out. Spraying should be carried out from time to time and fertilized with mineral fertilizers twice a month

When the second pair of leaves appears, the sprouts need to dive into separate small containers

It is important to water the plant to keep the soil from drying out. Spraying should be carried out from time to time and fertilized with mineral fertilizers twice a month

How to prepare fuchsia for wintering

Without a full-fledged winter rest, fuchsia will not be able to bloom in the next season, therefore, careful preparation of the plant for the dormant period is necessary.

For this you need:

• from the beginning of the autumn season, gradually reduce the amount of watering;
• stop feeding, this stimulates a decrease in the activity of biological processes in the plant, contributes to the discharge of foliage and buds;
• reduce the intensity of lighting, to do this, move the flower pot from the window to a table or shelf, where the light falls only when it is reflected from the walls and ceiling;
• in late autumn, trim shoots 2/3 of the length, remove weak and thickening shoots, faded peduncles and fallen leaves, while not forgetting to disinfect the tool (pruning shears, garden shears) before pruning;
• carefully examine the plant and treat the shoots with approved insecticides or the biological product "Rapsol" so that pests do not attack the weakened plant during wintering;
• the temperature in the room should not be higher than + 15 ° (insulated balcony, basement, other room), at temperatures above this level, fuchsia will not stop growing, will not prepare for winter rest and will be weakened in spring, which will certainly affect the decorative properties of flowers.

After carrying out preparatory measures, the plant is ready for the transition to winter storage.

When to bring in and whether to trim

Fuchsia is often harvested for the winter at the end of October. The pot is transferred from the garden or taken from the dacha for the winter to an apartment, basement, cellar. It stays there until spring.

It is imperative to prune fuchsia before wintering. This operation is performed twice a year:

1. In the autumn, when transferring a flower to a basement or home.
2. In the spring, in order to design an attractive shape.

The fuchsia branches should be trimmed approximately 0.5 in length. This is due to the fact that the immature part is removed, and with it the foliage. You also need to trim the root ball to a volume that fits in 2 hands. After the preparation done, the shrub is placed in a box. You can add damp moss to the box, which will warm the plant and retain moisture.

You can avoid the growth of stretching the trunk by cutting it in the autumn immediately after the end of flowering.

Fuchsia storage methods

In order for fuchsia to successfully recover from winter dormancy, it is necessary to properly organize the wintering of the plant. This can be done in different ways depending on the specific capabilities of the grower.

Wintering in the basement or cellar

Not all flower lovers can afford to organize the wintering of fuchsia on the glazed loggia of an apartment or a bright greenhouse, but what to do in this case with fuchsia?

To store the plant in the winter, you can use the basement or cellar. Before transferring the fuchsia to one of these places, it is pruned and the leaves are shortened.

In the dark, she also breathes, as in the fresh air, expending the accumulated nutrients. The room must be equipped with ventilation. In its absence, the humidity of the air will increase, and this will entail a series of fungal diseases.

A suitable air temperature in the basement or cellar should be at least +10 degrees.

Wintering in the apartment

Not all indoor flower lovers have rooms where they can place plants for winter storage during a dormant period. For many, these are ordinary rooms in an apartment.

If fuchsia hibernates at home, it must be remembered that special attention should be paid to the flower during this period. Fuchsia during rest is more sensitive to care than during growth and flowering, poorly tolerates both excessively humid and dry air

It is good if the apartment has an insulated balcony or loggia. Here there is a good opportunity to create the optimal temperature and humidity for the flower without compromising the comfortable living of family members, which cannot be said about wintering on the windowsill.

On the loggia, you can always use an electric heater to prevent negative temperatures. There is usually ample natural light.

If there is neither a loggia nor a balcony, then flower growers keep fuchsias on the windowsills. With the correct organization of wintering conditions in accordance with the recommendations of specialists, the flower will successfully overwinter at home.

Fuchsia care on the windowsill

During the wintering period of fuchsia on the windowsill, the florist's task is to organize suitable conditions:

• Place the flowerpot close to the window pane, away from heating appliances.
• Ensure constant ventilation of the room, for this you will have to keep the double-glazed windows always open at the minimum ventilation mode and cover them only on days of very cold weather.
• When germinating processes appear, remove them without hesitation and try to further lower the temperature on the windowsill, for this you will have to periodically open the window more.
• Insulate the pot with styrofoam to avoid root rot due to a constantly open window.
• Additionally, protect the pots from the flow of warm air from the side of the room with some kind of heat-insulating material, for example, cardboard, plastic wrap.

In winter, fuchsia needs much less watering than during the growth and flowering period, but it is necessary to water the flower correctly, avoiding excessive moisture in the soil or drying it out. The frequency of watering is determined by the condition of the soil

An important condition is that the lower the temperature and less illumination, the less water is needed for irrigation. You can occasionally add potassium permanganate to the settled water to a weak pink solution

On the shortest winter days (December, January), when there is very little natural light, plants must be illuminated with ordinary electric or fluorescent lamps, turning on the light for several hours every day so that the plant does not stretch. It should be remembered that the turned on bulbs heat up, it is imperative to take this point into account when placing the backlight.

In addition, it is advisable to periodically spray fuchsia with settled water without chlorine. And place wide containers with water near the window so that the air does not dry out during the heating season. Now there are modern devices for humidifying the air in apartments.

Possible diseases

When fuchsia is wintering, it is affected by a fungal disease - rust. It appears due to the fact that the florist neglected the recommendations and did not create the conditions for a problem-free wintering: the room is warm, dark and humid, and not dry and fresh. He watered the plant more often than necessary, hid it from direct sunlight and did not ventilate the room.

To prevent the fungus from infecting fuchsia, they treat it with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, but many neglect this procedure. They reproach themselves for this when dark brown spots appear on the leaves. In most cases, the diseased flower dies, and with it other indoor flowers, if you do not isolate it from others and cut off the leaves affected by the fungus on them.Noticing rust in the early days, they save the plant by preparing a disinfectant mixture of 5 liters of water, 200 grams of green soap and 15 grams of copper sulfate.

Gray rot affects fuchsia if the air in the room is too humid. It is easy to determine which part is affected: it is soft and watery, and white patches of plaque are visible on the leaf plate. To cure the plant, the affected leaves are cut off, treated with special preparations and the microclimate in the room is changed to prevent re-infection of fuchsia.

How to avoid

The main recommendations for organizing the correct wintering of fuchsias, which will help to avoid the appearance of diseases:

• the room should be dry, cool and fresh, but not warm and humid in any way - this is detrimental to plants;
• both waterlogged and dry air are unacceptable;
• you cannot leave "sleeping" fuchsias without proper care - they require constant attention;
• constant ventilation and an influx of fresh air is an indispensable condition for a successful wintering;
• unconditional adherence to cultivation techniques and care rules.

It is easy to organize storage of fuchsia in winter, and it is not necessary to transfer it from the garden to the basement or to the loggia. It will overwinter on the windowsill in the apartment, if it is occasionally watered and sprayed, smoothing out the work of the central heating.

Preparing for fuchsia for wintering

In winter, the stage of dormancy begins in the "life" of a flower, which is explained by the habituation of fuchsia to such climate conditions when the temperature drops, and the sun's light is extremely small for normal life. Fuchsias need to rest, restore energy reserves and prepare for future flowering. Preparation tips:

1. Decrease watering. Reduce the amount of watering in stages. It is worth completely to stop watering the flower in a month. It is necessary to start reducing watering in the first month of autumn, since then the fuchsia will be completely dehydrated before the first frost.
2. Cutting off plant nutrition: Stopping feeding fuchsia is necessary to stimulate the shedding of foliage and flowers. An action of this nature is for fuchsia a "sign" of the need to reduce activity.
3. Reducing the amount of incident light Place the plant at a sufficient distance from the window. Only light reflected from the ceiling and walls should fall on the plant. If it is not possible to create such conditions, a lamp is suitable, which must be turned on once a day for a couple of hours.
4. Lowering the temperature The pot should be placed on a glazed balcony, left in the basement or other place where the temperature is no more than 15 o C.

To preserve fuchsia during the cold season, it will be advisable to place it in a basement. But one should not forget that before moving the plant, it is necessary to shorten the leaves. In the absence of light, the plant breathes in the same way as in an open space, that is, the consumption of useful elements occurs. The room should be well ventilated, otherwise humidity will rise, which will cause fungus.

The best temperature regime for fuchsia in the basement is at least 10 degrees.

Preparing a shrub for winter storage is as follows:

1. Reducing the amount of watering. This should be done gradually, completely stopping watering within a month. Such an event should begin in September, so that by the first frost the stem and branches are completely dehydrated.

2. Termination of fertilization in any form. Stopping feeding stimulates the shedding of foliage and flower petals. The plant receives a kind of signal that it needs to reduce its activity.

3. Restricting access to light. The pot should be removed away from the window. It is necessary that only natural light reflected from the walls and ceiling falls on it. If this is not possible, then an incandescent lamp that is turned on for several hours a day is suitable.

4. Lowering the air temperature.The flowerpot must be taken out to the glazed balcony, brought into the basement or other room where the air temperature does not exceed 15 ° C.

It is necessary to reduce the amount of watering in preparation for winter

After that, you need to wait until all the leaves and petals fall off the stems, and they themselves become dry and brittle.

The difference between overwintering at home and outdoors

Caring for tubers of garden and home plants is different. To properly prepare them for wintering, take into account the characteristic features.

Rules for handling outdoor begonias:

1. Flowers are removed from the garden plot with the arrival of the first hard frosts. There is no need to rush to dig out with light frosts - begonias tolerate a short-term drop in temperature.
2. When the stems and leaves of the plant are dry, they are cut off.
3. The tubers are removed from the ground, put in a box and put to dry.
4. Containers with planting material are stored until spring.

They act differently with indoor begonias:

1. Their tubers do not need to be dug out - the plants are in their pots.
2. The stems are pruned as soon as they begin to wilt.
3. Watering is reduced to a minimum.
4. The flower is transferred to a cool place.
5. So that the earth does not completely dry out, it is periodically moistened.

In the spring, the tubers are transplanted into a fresh substrate. If there are many buds, they are divided into several fragments.

Sometimes indoor begonia stays green all winter. The flower is left in its place until spring, then transplanted.
We recommend that you familiarize yourself with our other articles on planting rules and subsequent begonia care:

• tuberous;
• ampelous;
• Bolivian.