Soil for plants

The best primers for flowers

When breeding flowers, it is very important to choose a good soil for indoor plants, because the speed of their growth and development depends on its composition. Our rating includes the 3 most reliable, according to florists, options

Seliger-Agro for flowers and indoor plants

This crumbly peat-based soil is intended for replanting indoor flowers and ornamental plants. It has a rich brown color and contains a fairly large complex of useful trace elements (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium oxide). The soil is packaged in plastic bags of 5 liters and has an unlimited shelf life, which is very practical when replanting a small number of flora representatives. For ease of use, the manufacturer has placed detailed instructions on the packaging.

Dignity

Loose enough;
No lumps and debris;
Compact packaging;
Easy to care for representatives of the flora;
Affordable cost.

disadvantages

Does not absorb water very well.

The "Seliger-Agro" mixture has a fairly high rating on the sites, but experienced users are advised to take into account the fact that after watering the soil settles - it will probably have to be replenished over time.

ASB Greenworld for flowers universal

ASB Greenworld soil has a universal purpose and can be used for growing ornamental plants and seedlings, as well as lawns, or for filling holes when replanting ornamental trees. It is recommended for camellias, Kalanchoe, begonias, violets, gerberas, roses, phloxes, peonies, daylilies. The only exceptions are flowers that prefer acidic soil. This composition accumulates and distributes nutrients well, does not cake and has high air exchange properties.

Dignity

Light;
Crumbly;
Convenient packaging that does not tear;
A wide range of applications (both at home and in the country);
Contains a good range of micronutrients.

disadvantages

Sometimes you come across rather large wood chips.

Many growers appreciate this soil for its versatility, however, most buyers advise to sift it thoroughly before using it in order to get rid of large pieces of wood.

Fasco floral

This flower soil is recommended for planting violets, geraniums, ivy, roses, chlorophytum, monstera, yucca, dracaena, tulips, crocuses, daffodils, iris, all kinds of ficuses and citrus fruits. It is completely ready-to-use and contains a well-balanced set of nutrients necessary for the full development of plants. The soil does not contain pathogenic elements and viable weed seeds, the raw material contributes to the development of the root system of flowers.

Dignity

Clean;
Soft;
Creates good conditions for development;
No debris and weeds;
Absorbs moisture well;
Inexpensive.

disadvantages

Prone to hardening.

The main rule of using Fasco is to first open the bag, mix its contents and let the soil saturate with oxygen for an hour.

Sand

Sand is an important ingredient for preparing soil substrates. This component should be taken very seriously. Do not add red building sand to the soil. It is unsuitable for plants as it contains harmful iron compounds. Preference should be given to river sand. It is used without prior preparation. Sea sand is washed well before use to remove salt.

After the earthen mixture is ready, it should be steamed to remove harmful insects and weed seeds. Heat treatment will help get rid of root nematodes, earthworms, millipedes. For the procedure, you will need a large saucepan and sand.Clean raw sand is placed on the bottom of the pan, other components of the earthen mixture are placed on top. The container is put on fire and heated. Evaporating, the water will warm up the soil.

Heat treatment has its drawbacks. Due to high temperatures, beneficial soil microorganisms die, which help to assimilate organic fertilizers. To avoid problems, the number of microorganisms is maintained with special preparations containing soil microflora.

The main types of soil

To mix soil that is suitable for growing a particular plant, you need to understand the qualities and properties of each type of soil.

At the same time, it does not matter at all whether the land for indoor flowers was bought or dug up with his own hands

Light, medium and heavy soil mixtures

Although there is a so-called "universal soil", it may not meet the requirements of many plants grown in apartments. All soil mixtures should be divided into light, medium and heavy.
Light soil mixtures are suitable for cacti and succulents. The light mixture consists of the following components:

4 parts of peat;
2 part of garden land;
1 part of leafy or sod land;
4 pieces of sand;
a small amount of agroperlite, vermiculite, charcoal, drainage material.

Soil mixtures with a medium-density composition are more versatile. They are used for breeding decorative deciduous and flowering plants in pots. A medium mixture can be obtained by combining the following components in certain proportions:

4 parts of peat;
3 pieces of garden land;
2 parts of sod land;
1 part compost or humus;
3 pieces of sand;
some vermiculite and charcoal.

Preparing an earthen mixture

Heavy mixes are recommended for large potted plants. These include tropical palms, vines, ferns, azaleas. The composition of the heavy mixture is as follows:

6 parts of peat;
4 pieces of garden land;
3 parts of leafy or sod land;
2 pieces of sand;
2 parts of compost or humus (can be replaced with vermicompost);
additionally - bark, pine needles, sphagnum, charcoal.

Humus earth

This type of soil is created by mixing rotted manure with soil in a special pit or heap. A variety of this type of soil is biohumus - the most fertile additive to soil mixtures for any indoor flowers. In fact, this is the same humus, but produced using a humus worm.

Sod land

The type of soil taken from the place of growth of various grasses is preferable - cereals or legumes, since such a soil has the highest nitrogen content. However, the soil dug up from the upper layer of the meadow is considered quite suitable.

Coniferous land

An acidic type of soil harvested where conifers grow. Such land is necessary for some indoor plants - for example, saintpaulias, azaleas, gloxinias, begonias - as the main component of the soil mixture.

Leaf land

The most common forest land or soil from a personal plot, taken from under a fruit tree, is very nutritious due to the rotted foliage that is part of the composition. It is often recommended to use leafy soil without other types of soil, only with the addition of a small amount of sand or perlite.

Sand

It is almost impossible to do without this component when composing earth mixtures for various home colors. Although sand is not nutritious, it makes the soil looser and more permeable to moisture and air. However, it is worth considering that only river sand is suitable, and by no means construction sand.

Peat soil

Peat is the main component of ready-made soils, making them lighter and looser. Its downside is that after it dries completely, it absorbs moisture very poorly, as a result of which watering the plant does not give the desired result - the water passes through the substrate without lingering in it.

Important! So that the plant does not die from drying out, it is advisable not to use this type of soil in its pure form.

DIY components

Despite the large number of ready-made primers, many growers prefer to prepare their own soil mixture by mixing the components in a suitable ratio.

The individual components can also be purchased from specialized stores. Thus, you do not have to run around the shops, looking for which land is right for violets.

DIY soil for violets can be prepared from the following components:

high-moor and low-moor peat. This component is mined in swamps. Low-lying peat is 70% organic, a set of nutrients. It has great nutritional value, but dries quickly, therefore moisture-retaining components are required. Features a neutral pH. High-moor peat consists of organic matter, mainly sphagnum moss, located on the surface of a swampy area. But unlike the lowland, it has a low nutritional value and an acidic reaction;
vermiculite or perlite. Both components are of volcanic origin. When using one of them, the soil for room violets will not cake, the formation of a surface crust is excluded. But it is worth giving preference to vermiculite, since it has moisture-retaining and disinfecting properties, some mineral additives;
sphagnum moss. It will be a useful addition to the mix. It is an excellent baking powder, absorbs moisture, and then gradually gives it to the plant, but at the same time it passes air well, does not rot. How to use sphagnum moss for violets? Chop finely and add to the mixture;
biohumus. It is a natural fertilizer that nourishes and stimulates plant growth. Consists of compost, recycled organic raw materials and manure;

Vermicompost is used as fertilizer.

charcoal. It is wood that has been charred in an airless environment and has retained its structure. It has antiseptic properties, prevents the formation of rot, absorbs excessive moisture. Powder of charcoal treats plant slices;
coconut substrate. It is made from a hard coconut shell, in which there are many useful substances, there are no pathogens. It is a natural, environmentally friendly filler. Good moisture retention.

Purchase these components before preparing the ground yourself.

ADVICE! It is more convenient to enrich store substrates with additional components, since they are optimally matched in terms of pH.

Composition of soil for violets at home based on ready-made soil. The addition of these substances helps to enrich the ready-mix:

6 tablespoons of the purchased mixture;
2 tablespoons of vermiculite;
1 tablespoon of sphagnum;
½ tablespoon of crushed charcoal.

Another recipe based on ready-made soil:

4 tablespoons of the purchased mixture;
1 tablespoon of vermiculite;
1 tablespoon chopped sphagnum
½ tablespoon of coconut substrate;
2 tablespoons of chopped charcoal.

Recipe based on pH neutral universal potting soil mix for indoor plants:

6 tablespoons of all-purpose mix
1 tablespoon of perlite;
1 tablespoon of vermiculite;
½ tablespoon of coconut substrate;
1 tablespoon chopped sphagnum
1 tablespoon of chopped charcoal.

The recipe for how to prepare a soil based on lowland and high moor peat:

4 tablespoons of high-moor, low-lying peat, mixed in equal amounts;
1 tablespoon of vermiculite;
1 tablespoon chopped sphagnum
1 tablespoon of chopped charcoal;
½ tablespoon of vermicompost.

Sod and leafy ground

Sod and leafy soil can serve as a nutrient base for the soil. They replace the universal primer. Unlike peat, they can be obtained independently in field meadows.To do this, remove the topsoil by 2-5 centimeters.

Leafy soil is the top layer of soil with fallen rotted leaves under linden trees, fruit trees, or maple trees. Used as an additive to sod land.

Leafy land.

ATTENTION! It is better not to collect soil under an oak or willow tree due to the high content of tannins.

Sod, leafy soil is used instead of universal soil or peat. But before using it, it is necessary to warm it up in the oven for several hours in order to disinfect it from parasites and bacteria.

Do I need to add sand?

River sand does not carry obvious nutrients, but it makes the soil loose and retains moisture well. In many mixes, it is already included in the composition, so there is no need to add it to ready-made potting mixes. If the soil is prepared independently, then add 1 part of sand to 4 parts of peat.

Which land is better - purchased or prepared with your own hands - it's up to you.

Soil for indoor plants

For plants, the soil is very important, which creates certain living conditions for them. Some plants require a fertile loose substrate - aucuba, butcher, amaryllis, balsam, roses. Others grow well only in light sandy loam soils, for example, azalea, begonia, violet, gloxinia. Another group of indoor plants prefer dense soils that retain moisture well (pelargonium, hydrangea, phyllocactus, etc.) And depleted water and air permeable soils are perfect for cacti and other succulents, because the latter do not tolerate stagnant water at the roots.

In addition to the physical composition, plants react sharply to the reaction of the soil solution. Soil soils are subdivided into acidic, neutral, alkaline and close to them according to the acid-base index. For example, peat and clay-soddy soils are acidic (pH = 4-5 units); heather and soddy - to slightly acidic (pH = 5-6 units); deciduous and humus soil, biohumus - to neutral (pH = 6-7 units) soils.

Plants that prefer acidic soils: monstera, anthurium, camellia, azalea, ferns, saxifrage. They will not thrive in neutral and alkaline soils.

Plants for slightly acidic soils: begonia, pelargonium, hydrangea, primrose, chlorophytum, ficus, figs, etc. These will not develop normally in soils with high acidity.

Plants for neutral soils: agave, dracaena, asparagus, clivia, fuchsia, crinum, aucuba, balsam, butcher, amaryllis, etc. Even in slightly acidic soils, they look depressed and constantly get sick. And additional feeding, watering, and changing the lighting do not help them "recover".

Plants for slightly alkaline soils: myrtle, palm. In soils with neutral acidity, they develop poorly, often get sick.

The soil is very important for plants, which creates certain living conditions for them.

Soil components for violets

Nutrient soil

Leafy soil is the topsoil collected under deciduous trees - birch, linden. It is very loose, water and breathable with a pH of 5-6 (acidic). Leafy ground is nothing more than rotted (within 1-2 years) fallen leaves.

Sod land - the top layer of the soil, with roots. Usually taken from meadows.

Biohumus and compost also belong to nutrient soils.

Excipients

Coniferous soil is the lower layer of the litter of a coniferous forest, better than pine (the upper layer is removed from non-rotten needles). Has an acidic pH of 4-5 and is friable.

Peat land (high moor peat) serves to improve the looseness of the substrate and provide a balanced mineral nutrition of young plants.

Baking powder and moisture holders

Perlite - granular silica of white or gray color, very light, is an alternative to sand and can make up about 10-20% of the soil mixture. For violets, it is more rational to use granular rather than powdery perlite, for example, "Agroperlite".

Vermiculite is a hydromica with a high moisture absorption coefficient (up to 400-530%), it is more often used for rooting cuttings, the planting material breathes and does not rot.

Moss-sphagnum helps to increase the hygroscopicity of the soil mixture, and also has disinfecting properties. Pre-spilled with boiling water, dried and finely grated, it is laid around the cuttings to prevent excessive drying out.

Charcoal acts as a moisture regulator and has an absorbent effect. Coarse coal is placed on the bottom of the pot, and the smaller one is mixed with the ground.

Dolomite flour (crushed white limestone) is used as an additional component when it is necessary to reduce the acidity of the soil.

Sand is used as a baking powder (rarely).

Expanded clay - is a porous clay balls, fired at high temperatures, stacked on the bottom with a drainage layer up to 1.5-2 cm.

Sometimes coconut fiber is used to improve looseness, but if the soil mixture for violets contains perlite and sphagnum, then coconut fiber is not necessary.

The composition of the soil has a great influence on the absorption of nutrients by the plant. It should not be forgotten that Saintpaulias thrive best in slightly acidic or neutral soils with a pH of 5.5 - 6.5. With an underestimated soil acidity (pH below 4), the absorption of nitrogen and phosphorus decreases, even if fertilization is sufficient. In violets, nitrogen-phosphorus deficiency begins: the buds, not fully opening, fall off, the lower leaves turn yellow and look lifeless. The plant can be saved by transplanting it into a new land, adding 1 liter. the volume of the pot is the crushed shell of one egg or watering 1 time with ash dissolved in water (1 tablespoon per 2 liters of water).

The assimilation of nitrogen and phosphorus by Saintpaulia sharply decreases even with an alkaline (pH more than 8.5) soil reaction. And in this case, it is necessary to transplant into a new soil with the addition of leafy or coniferous soil.

In a city apartment, it is difficult to make an earthen mixture on your own, it is easier to use a store bought, and at the same time to purchase an indicator of soil acidity. This device will always help to find and eliminate the cause of the "bad mood" of plants.