Pests and diseases to which the green violet is susceptible.
Any houseplant sooner or later faces the problem of disease and pests. Even with proper care. But the green violet is a particularly fragile, defenseless flower that has no natural immunity to this kind of problem. Therefore, only proper care and proper cultivation, preventive work with the processing of the plant, can protect your beauties on the windowsill. Moreover, most of the diseases of the violet are practically incurable and the bushes have to be destroyed after a large-scale infection. Below we will look at the most common diseases and pests for Saintpaulia.
- Phytofluorosis - the manifestation of the disease occurs as a result of a violation of the moisture regime of both the soil and the humidity in the room. To exclude the development of sores, ventilate the room more often, and watering should be carried out strictly according to the system and with the correct actions, only in the pallet.
- Mealy dew - is manifested by the formation of specks on the leaves, white spots. As the disease progresses, the size of the spots increases. What contributes to the appearance of a sore? Violation of the temperature regime, sudden changes. Well, increased soil moisture. Solve the problem immediately.
-Gray rot - manifests itself as a result of increased moisture or a decrease in temperature that lasts for a period of time.
A little about pests. The most active and popular for indoor violets are spider mites, aphids. They are the most dangerous, not only feed on the sap of the plant, which leads to the weakening of the violet, but also are the causative agents of diseases that are dangerous for the flower. The fight against parasites is carried out with traditional medicine, especially with prevention. In a larger distribution, it is necessary to use more effective drugs; you can buy them at any flower shop.
Bottom line.
Finishing the article, let's summarize: planting a green violet is an interesting, entertaining activity, especially when you start to admire your work. However, this is a laborious process, given the capriciousness of the plant, whimsical care. Only very patient growers get 100% results.
Attention, compliance with all the rules, care. Only then does the plant reciprocate with you.
Transplant
It was already mentioned above that the violet needs to be transplanted regularly. Up to one year old, it may well grow in a small pot. But then you should transplant it into a larger pot and repeat the procedure every two years.
Old plants are especially troublesome. It is not enough just to transplant them - you need to carefully remove the outer leaves directly from the rhizome, leaving only the middle. This rejuvenation of plants leads to active growth.
With young violets, everything is much easier. It is necessary to prepare a pot in which it is planned to transplant the plant, pour earth into it and make a large depression in it.
The soil in a pot with a violet needs to be slightly moistened, then gently turned over, trying to shake it out along with the plant - here it is very important not to damage the root system, otherwise the violet will hurt and may even die. It remains only to set the ground in the prepared hole and water it well
Selection recommendations
When choosing a particular variety, it is worth asking about the predisposition to diseases, the presence of resistance to a decrease in temperature. Each species has its own irreplaceable qualities.Some varieties are especially capricious, so they are not easy to grow for novice growers. Thanks to the art of selection, today there are about 2 thousand hybrids. Among the representatives of the blue color, you can find flowers with star-shaped buds, classic or even limbic in shape.
All violets can be divided into "girls" and "boys", you can recognize them simply by the foliage. If there is a bright spot at the base, then this is a girl. You can find plants with a large outlet or a miniature one, which one to choose depends on the person's preferences.
When buying, the first thing a grower needs to pay attention to is the absence of spots on the leaves or gaps between them. All this suggests that the violet is infected
If the bush is very elongated, it means that it was kept in conditions where it did not have enough sun, therefore it is not clear whether the roots are healthy under the ground.
Caring for non-flowering Saintpaulias at home
Irrigation and humidity for this violet should be standard, but for fans of easier care and those who do not want to "play" with drip or wick irrigation systems, Neverfloris & Co. will pleasantly surprise you with the ability to carry out simple overhead irrigation. The main thing is to avoid pouring water on the leaves or at the base of the outlet.
For this violet, soft settled water is used, watering is carried out at such a frequency that the soil remains slightly moist. Overdrying, like waterlogging, is equally disliked by Saintpaulias.
These violets, as a rule, do not need increased air humidity, but when close to heating devices, it is better to take care of compensating for too dry air - by installing temporary humidifiers or bowls of water.
Top dressing for non-flowering Saintpaulias is carried out throughout the year, with the exception of a period of one month after each transplant, with a frequency of 1 every 4 weeks. For non-flowering Saintpaulias, special fertilizers are still used - for violets or flowering plants. The absence of full-fledged flowers and an unusual appearance does not mean at all that Saintpaulias have passed into the category of decorative deciduous plants.
Pruning and formation of green Saintpaulias, unlike ordinary flowering ones, is carried out according to slightly different principles:
- the leaves are removed after damage or the beginning of wilting (those that affect the decorative effect of the bushes), gently breaking off, without waiting for the complete yellowing or drying of most of the leaf plate;
- when pruning inflorescences, they are not guided by individual flowers (they retain their beauty for an amazingly long time), and if there are no signs of yellowing or drying out of individual buds and parts, the inflorescences are removed entirely after the loss of decorativeness;
- These saintpaulias are less sensitive to pruning, so the question of how to remove damaged, dry or faded parts can be decided to your taste - both breaking and cutting are fine, but only if you use a clean, sanitized and sharp tool.
In addition to the usual pruning, non-flowering Saintpaulias will need pinching. Axillary shoots, if you do not plan to propagate the plant and increase your collections, should be removed not only regularly, but also as early as possible, preventing them from growing.
If you want to get new bushes, then it is better to leave no more than 2 or 3 stepsons on the plant, allowing them to develop to separation in order to speed up their rooting. The development of axillary shoots usually negatively affects the shape of the rosette and the decorativeness of the adult Saintpaulia as a whole.
The problems in growing Saintpaulias with reduced flowers are absolutely similar to those that threaten flowering varieties. Plants often suffer from rot, mold, fungal diseases associated primarily with hypothermia and improper watering.
But they are a little more resistant to pests.The greatest danger to non-flowering Saintpaulias is represented by mealybugs and spider mites, which are quite difficult to fight against on a thick pillow of these Saintpaulias.
For non-standard, or extravagant, non-flowering Saintpaulias, the choice of containers is critical. Ball
A little about watering
Water the violets as the soil dries. Accordingly, in the summer you will have to do this more often, and less often in the winter. In addition, soil dries out faster in small pots than in large ones.
Watering should be done only with settled water - not cold from the tap. It is advisable to pour water into a suitable container - a glass, jar or any other with a wide neck (to facilitate the evaporation of chlorine) and leave it for a day. During this time, it will warm up to room temperature and get rid of dangerous chlorine. Too hot or cold water may well lead to the appearance of diseases, damage to the roots.
When watering, try to pour water directly onto the ground. If it gets on the leaves on a hot sunny day, burns are possible - white spots will appear on their surface.
Violet Green Lagoon: variety description and characteristics
The variety of violets Zelenaya Laguna was bred thanks to the works of the breeder S.
The rosette of the violet PC Green Lagoon is dense and of a standard size, assembled from neat wavy leaves of light green color. Terry flowers, which in their shape resemble cabbage forks, are considered large, their size can exceed 6 centimeters in diameter.
The petals on the outer edge of the flower have a greenish tint, while the base is white. Blue stains are visible on the surface of the petals. Shades of flowers with each flowering become more and more dark and if you do not rejuvenate the plant, then after several years, the flowers will acquire a dark purple color. Flowering in this species on E is frequent, but lasts for a long period of time.
The violet variety Zelenaya Laguna, as a rule, grows from 4 to 5 flowering shoots, on which large flowers appear during flowering. Those that appear during the first flowering are larger than those that will appear later. The first flowering should be expected two years after the flower has been planted. If the weather is hot outside, then blue shades will prevail, if cool, then green.
The violet variety Zelenaya Laguna has an interesting feature, its leaves grow upward. They serve as support for heavy buds growing on weak flowering shoots, preventing the bouquet from disintegrating.
Violet RS Green lagoon is prone to diseases that lead to rotting of the outlet itself or drying out of the buds from the inside and they do not even have time to open.
Green violet: main characteristics and description of green violets
green violet photo
Such original plants, with white and green flowers, are called saintpaulia, which is included in the detachments of a beautifully blooming flower. The flower got its name simply due to the ease of memorization from an ordinary gardener. The name stuck after a long period of time. Therefore, in the article we call the flower a violet, which is the most familiar to hear.
If we talk about the nature of the habitat of this species, then the wild Saintpaulia will give preference to mountainous areas, for example, East Africa. Flowers of long-term cultivation, short growth. Evergreen direction. The stems are relatively small, the basal leaves are very well developed. The leaves are rounded, there are small villi, which can be seen on close inspection. The tip of the leaf is slightly pointed. The color is predominantly green, less often individuals with a spotted color of foliage are found.
Flowers formed on violet bushes are endowed with various colors and shapes. The inflorescences are collected in a small brush.The flower is relatively small, with up to five petals per inflorescence. At the place of flowering, seeds are formed, collected in a small box.
Care Tips
Experienced growers recommend following the following care tips:
violets require special soil, they will not grow in ordinary garden compost; there is already ready-made soil on the market that is ideal for them, but you can make it yourself, using one part sphagnum moss, perlite and loam;
choose a container with drainage holes in the bottom; the container can be made of clay or plastic, but in the first case, it is worth monitoring the salting of the soil;
place a violet on a window that faces north or east in summer and south or west in winter;
flowers require 10 to 16 hours of bright, indirect sunlight and 8 hours of complete darkness per day; if these requirements are not met, they will bloom;
when watering, it is necessary to exclude the ingress of moisture on the leaves, otherwise mold or fungus may appear; even a drop can cause ugly stains;
water for irrigation must be warm;
before each new watering, it is imperative to check whether the soil is dry enough, since the flower does not like too waterlogged soil;
the ambient temperature should be between 65 and 70 F; deviation is allowed, but not more than 15 degrees;
it is required to remove plants from the window at night to prevent cooling, otherwise it will darken and dry out within 24 hours;
it is important to maintain high humidity around the violets; you can fill a metal or plastic tray with water and small pebbles and put it next to;
top dressing is a prerequisite for the normal flowering of violets; experts recommend using a balanced fertilizer designed for flowering indoor plants;
top dressing is applied once every 2 weeks with watering, the dose should be 4 times less than on the package;
if you want the plant to constantly delight with flowering, then it is advised to additionally use artificial lighting.
For information on how to grow a violet from a leaf, see the video below.
Care Tips
Violet "LE Magenta" requires rather painstaking care and increased attention. Plant care includes several stages: watering, timely transplantation and top dressing.
Watering
It is necessary to water the flower as the top layer of the soil dries up, using for this settled water with a temperature of 22-24 °. The plant should be watered strictly at the root, while not allowing water droplets to fall on the leaves. This limitation is due to the presence of pile on the leaf plates, which retains drops and does not allow them to drain or evaporate. As a result of excessive moisture, the structure of the leaf is disturbed, and it begins to rot. Watering can be done in 3 ways: bottom, drip and wick.
- Bottom watering allows you to evenly saturate the earth with water and consists in the following: such an amount of water is poured into a deep container - a bucket or a basin - so that the pot is hidden in it at 3/4 of its height. The bottom of the pot must be perforated. The flower is held in this position until the top layer of the earth darkens. Next, the pot is removed from the water and placed on a tray to remove excess moisture.
- The drip method consists in watering the plant directly under the root and is performed using a large syringe or a watering can with a long and narrow nose. Water so that the growing point and leaves remain dry. This method is the least labor-intensive and is widely used by flower growers.
- The wick method is as follows: a rope made of natural fibers is passed through the drainage hole of the pot, and its opposite end is placed in a container of water. This method allows the root system to take just as much water as it needs.
Top dressing
Feeding violets "LE Magenta" is carried out 2 times a month, with the exception of the dormant period, which lasts from November to February. Fertilizers are applied to the moistened soil immediately after watering. Ready-made mineral complexes specially designed for Saintpaulias are used as top dressing. Good results are obtained by introducing a liquid organic composition "Stimovit", a microbiological solution "Baikal-M1" and a complex mineral additive "Master" marked for saintpaulias "20.20.20" or "18.18.18 + 3".
Transfer
Violets are transplanted once a year in early spring before the onset of hot weather. This period is the most favorable for two reasons:
- the plant has already left the dormant state, when it was impossible to touch it;
- before budding, and even more so before flowering, there is still enough time during which the flower will have the opportunity to adapt after transplantation.
The process of transplanting violets takes place step by step.
- A 3 cm layer of expanded clay is placed on the bottom of the pot, on top of which a mixture prepared from peat, leaf earth and humus is poured. The pot is filled to about 1/3 of the total volume.
- Then a violet bush is placed in the center and little by little the voids are filled with the substrate.
- The next day, the plant is watered, after which it is transferred to normal care. It is not recommended to water the flower on the day of transplantation. This is due to the fact that the roots could be damaged, and they need at least a day for the wounds to heal. Otherwise, the process of decay of damaged roots may begin, and the plant will die.
Recommended care.
Green violet, a variety of Saintpaulia, has a rather capricious attitude to the growing process, the correctness and quality of care, the required composition of the soil. The presence of all certain conditions will allow the plant to flourish for a long period, but the lack of at least one of the conditions will entail a disruption in the development and subsequent death of the plant.
Watering.
Correct, systematic watering, strictly water in a tray specially installed under the pots with violets. Waterlogging leads to formations of diseases, mainly rotting of the root system. Do not violate the required temperature regime, above +24 degrees and below +19 has a detrimental effect on the development of Saintpaulia.
Light.
The violet is a plant that starts to wither without enough light. This moment has an important function when considering the general condition of the flower. Violets especially need sunlight at the time of flowering.
How to feed green violets
We monitor the introduction of the nutrition necessary for the plant on a monthly basis. The quality and quantity of which depends on the growing season. Be sure to choose the right pots, for violets this is an important point. It should be almost in size, plus or minus in different directions. In a large capacity, the root system begins to actively develop and grow, which takes away the strength of the entire plant for proper development. In a smaller pot, the flower begins to feel discomfort, deformation of the plant and roots occurs. Small pots are inconvenient for the plant, and it shows its displeasure - it simply refuses to bloom.
How to transplant green violets
Every year, each violet bush is subject to a mandatory transplant. The soil for such a purpose must be properly compiled by yourself or simply purchased in a special store. How to make such a mixture of soil with your own hands? We take a part of the earth, mix it with a part of the sand, be sure to add sphagnum moss, which plays the role of a reservoir of the necessary moisture. The added broken brick or ordinary pebbles will serve as an excellent drainage for the soil, which is so necessary for the healthy development of violets. To get more beautiful flowers on the windowsill and at the slightest financial cost (meaning buying bushes in a flower shop), Saintpaulia can simply be propagated,of course, observing all the rules and recommendations about this process.
How green varieties of violets are propagated
Reproduction is recommended by means of leaves. Break off healthy, developed leaf plates or carefully cut them, you can simply put them in a container with water, filling the container should not cover the whole leaf, only the lower part of the stem. Constantly check the water so that it does not dry out. Rooting will stop if this process is disrupted. You can also stick the leaves into the soil. Moisturize constantly. Further, after the appearance of the first roots, we transplant them into prepared pots with the necessary soil composition. We expose it to a permanent place of residence, so that the young plant would immediately begin to undergo acclimatization to new conditions.
Description
To begin with, we will give a description of the violet Green Rose.
Its leaves are large, slightly wavy at the edges. A beautiful, rich dark green color predominates. Growth goes from the center to the edges, resulting in a strong rosette.
But, of course, the main feature of the variety is the gorgeous flowers. They consist of numerous petals with wavy edges, arranged in the same way as in the flowers of roses - hence the name. At the edges, the petals are pale yellow or even light green. There are also exquisite blotches - lilac strokes. For one flowering, 6-7 flowers are usually formed. Moreover, with a new flowering, the shade and structure of flowers can differ significantly - this makes the growing process especially interesting. The color can also be influenced by the ambient temperature. If the temperature drops below +20 degrees Celsius, then light colors prevail - yellow and light green. But if it is hot in the room - above +26 degrees, then a large number of purple and even raspberry blotches appear on the petals. Of course, when choosing a sprout, any florist expects that it will retain the characteristics of the parent plant. However, this is not always observed in violets. Quite often, a young plant has flowers of a different color, very different from the flowers of the parents. Such specimens are commonly referred to as "sports". Violet Green Rose is no exception. Therefore, you should be prepared for this.
Suitable soil and pot
Before you start breeding violets, you need to take care of suitable growing conditions.
There are several subtleties here that are very important to know about.
First of all, a pot. It would seem that everything is simple here - any container with drainage holes in the lower part is suitable, so that excess moisture is freely removed without leading to decay of the root system. However, the size of the plant should be taken into account here. Planting a tiny violet in a large pot is not worth it. Otherwise, the plant will throw all its strength into the development of the root system. This will take many months and all this time the violet will not bloom - hardly anyone will be pleased with this alignment. Therefore, it is advisable to plant a small leaf with roots in a small pot. Then the root system will quickly take up the entire available volume and the plant will finally begin to bloom. Over time, the grown plant will need to be transplanted - we will talk about this a little later.
The choice of soil must also be taken very seriously. It is advisable to use fertile soil - black soil or any other mixed with compost - an excellent fertilizer. If the soil is too dense, then it will not be superfluous to slightly dilute it with sand to facilitate the passage of moisture and oxygen to the roots.
Of course, it is advisable to pour a little rubble or pebbles on the bottom of the pot, and only then pour soil over them - then the plant will develop the fastest.
Description
Such green-flowered varieties are called saintpaulias and are included in the detachment of flowering plants. They belong to the Gesneriaceae family. But they got the name "violet" due to the fact that it is more familiar to novice gardeners.Over time, the name stuck, therefore, in this article we are talking about green violets - in order to make the information easier to perceive.
If we talk about the natural habitat of violets, then these are most often mountain ranges in East Africa. They are perennial low plants that are considered evergreen. They have small stems with well-developed basal leaves. The leaves themselves are slightly rounded, with small villi. At the top, they are slightly pointed. The color is most often green, but sometimes spotted plants can be found.
In addition, flowers of various shapes and colors are placed on the bush, which are collected in small brushes. The flower itself is small, has five petals. After flowering, a small "box" appears in place of the flower, inside which there are seeds.
Don't forget about fertilizers
The first six months after planting in fresh soil, you do not need to fertilize the violet - the soil contains all the necessary substances
Then you need to feed the flower every two weeks - this is especially important during the flowering period.
An actively growing plant needs to be fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers - they provide a rapid growth of green mass (stems, leaves). Immediately after transplanting, you can add a little phosphorus, which is needed for the rapid development of the root system. But before flowering, you need to fertilize the violet with potash fertilizers - then there will be more buds and their size will also increase.
Of course, when fertilizing, carefully study the instructions so as not to harm the plant with excess trace elements.
