Reproduction of raspberries by seeds: features of germination, when to plant seedlings

Self-collection of lavender seeds and their selection for sowing

Before you know the answer to the question of how to plant lavender seeds, you need to choose these seeds in the store.

When choosing lavender seeds, the main consideration should be given to cost and manufacturer. You need to purchase lavender only from trusted companies and manufacturers that you can trust

They have a large number of ornamental plants, and there are collections of both summer plant seeds and other perennial flowers on sale.

Seeds that are too cheap may surprise you by substituting one variety for another. You should first make sure that the information about the manufacturer, the characteristics of the plant, the specifics of sowing are provided in full. You can also harvest lavender seeds yourself by purchasing or collecting an already fully blossoming inflorescence. And after completely drying them, save the spilled seeds of the plant.

Lavender seeds can maintain their germination for a long time. And they don't always need to be applied fresh. Even after 5-6 years, they will be able to ascend without problems if you follow all agrotechnical rules.

And the most important condition is the competent storage of seeds: they must be kept in tightly closed containers.

Pretreatment of lavender seeds

Planting a plant like lavender requires attention. This is exactly what is needed in order for the plant to be beautiful as in the photo. Lavender seeds should be stratified. To be more precise, they require cold stratification. Without cold treatment, the seeds simply will not sprout. In addition, the exposure to cold, in terms of its duration, should last for a rather long time. Depending on the method and duration of seed treatment, there are 2 options for growing lavender from seeds:

• Natural stratification. Sowing seeds before winter in order to pass the cooling period already in the soil itself.
• Artificial stratification - holding seeds in the cold before sowing.

The shortest period for stratification of lavender seed is one and a half months - or 35-40 days. In the event that stratification in its time will last longer, then this can have a positive effect on the number of seedlings and germination time.

Artificial stratification should not be carried out in bags, but by mixing lavender seeds with a substrate or sand. Having filled the container with this mixture, it should be wrapped in foil and covered with a lid on top. Further, the seeds should be sent for cooling for six to eight weeks at a temperature of around five degrees Celsius. Do not freeze lavender seeds. They should simply be placed in the refrigerator in order to pass through the cooling phase. In addition to standard stratification, you can experiment with other processing options:

Treatment of seeds with growth stimulants or various phytohormones (for example, gibberellin - at a concentration of one hundred to two hundred ml per liter of water). But these methods may simply not give any results at all.

Sowing lavender in the ground

Sowing lavender seeds before winter - this procedure is not very difficult and is practically no different from growing any other summer or perennial plant that prefers stratification. Sowing seeds should be carried out in the last decade of October. In this case, you should not bury the seeds very much into the ground. It is imperative to mulch the beds for protection for the winter. There is no need to fear that with the onset of spring lavender will not sprout. The very first shoots of lavender will begin to release not earlier than May.At a time when night temperatures can rise significantly. Sowing seeds in spring should be done in May. After the threat of recurrent frosts has completely disappeared. In this case, the seeds should be artificially stratified.

Soil and containers for sowing lavender seeds for seedlings

For the cultivation of lavender, as a rule, loose universal substrates with a large amount of nutrients are used. For this, it is best to use ready-made soil mixtures.

• Before planting lavender, the substrate should be spilled with manganese or ignited.
• When choosing containers for seeding lavender seedlings, you should choose not very deep containers, but wide and large ones.
• Lavender is not sown in cassettes. The maximum depth of the container should be no more than seven centimeters.

How to grow decorative poppies from seeds?

Colorful symbols of summer, quivering, gentle, and at the same time so hardy, decorative poppies, leave no one indifferent. The inimitable colors and details of the structure of these amazing flowers are a constant adornment of any garden in summer. But the cultivation of decorative poppies is not quite a standard task, although not difficult. Poppies are propagated by seed, and the choice of sowing methods and methods available allows everyone to find their own ideal option.

Alpine poppy (Papaver alpinum). HermannSchachner

The reputation of cultivated, ornamental poppies has suffered significantly from confusion and their association with a species punishable by law - sleeping poppy. The most beautiful decorative poppy, the oriental one, which, if it can be grown, then in a limited number of copies, as well as several other species, also suffered from the legislative ban. But other types of poppies that have nothing to do with opiates and do not contain narcotic substances - flowering annuals, biennials and perennials - for some reason also remain a banned plant. And although there are no fewer admirers of the beauty of poppies, they are still significantly inferior in their distribution to other summer-flowering competitors.

Note! According to the current legislation of the Russian Federation, the cultivation of the following types of poppies is prohibited: hypnotic, oriental, bristle-bearing, bracts. Representatives of the genus Poppy (Papaver) are herbaceous perennials, biennials and annuals with a very powerful taproot, strong straight single shoots, and amazing heavily pubescent carved greenery, famous for its filigree silvery-blue texture

Alternately arranged, pinnately dissected, almost thorny to the touch due to the edge, the leaves can reach 30 cm in length. Poppy bloom is a fascinating sight. Drooping buds, as they bloom, erect peduncles and spectacular large saucer flowers with the most beautiful stamens among garden plants are mesmerizing. The calyx of the flower consists of two large sepals, and the corolla is easily recognizable by the delicate, almost transparent, quivering four large petals surrounding a delightful "powdered" center of anthers and stamens, usually almost black in color. Reds, yellows, pinks, oranges, purples and even blues - decorative poppies boast amazingly beautiful shades that inspired legendary painters, today they are only admirable. After flowering, fruit pods are tied with beautiful discs at the top, filled with small rounded seeds of different shades of gray

Representatives of the genus Poppy (Papaver) are herbaceous perennials, biennials and annuals with a very powerful taproot, strong straight single shoots, and amazing heavily pubescent carved greenery, famous for its filigree silvery-blue texture. Alternately arranged, pinnately dissected, almost thorny to the touch due to the edge, the leaves can reach 30 cm in length. Poppy bloom is a fascinating sight.Drooping buds, as they bloom, erect peduncles and spectacular large saucer flowers with the most beautiful stamens among garden plants are mesmerizing. The calyx of the flower consists of two large sepals, and the corolla is easily recognizable by the delicate, almost transparent, quivering four large petals surrounding a delightful "powdered" center of anthers and stamens, usually almost black in color. Reds, yellows, pinks, oranges, purples and even blues - decorative poppies boast amazingly beautiful shades that inspired legendary painters, today they are only admirable. After flowering, fruit pods are tied with beautiful discs at the top, filled with small rounded seeds of different shades of gray.

Without exception, all poppies are propagated by seeds. And annuals - peony poppy, matted poppy or changeable poppy are now ranked among samoseyka poppy, gray poppy, holostem poppy or saffron poppy, peacock poppy; and more durable poppies - alpine poppy, Amur poppy, Atlantic poppy, burcera poppy, Lapland poppy, Miyabe poppy, polar or Scandinavian poppy, grayish or Tien Shan poppy, Tatra poppy - are best propagated by seeds. Some vegetative methods are used only for perennial species. Growing poppies from seeds is very easy, as the plant often blooms as early as two months after germination.

Terry and peony poppy. thompson-morgan

2. Planting and care in the open field

Ageratum seedlings are planted in open ground in the second half of May, after the last frost has disappeared.

In order to get strong and sufficiently mature seedlings by May, sowing seeds at home is carried out in the second half of March.

Before being planted in the garden, the flowers are left in the seedling boxes for several hours outdoors during the daytime. Gradually, the residence time is extended and after a week the flowers will be hardened and ready for planting.

In the garden, the location for the flower should be spacious and sunny. Areas with closely lying groundwater and often flooded areas are not suitable for growing a flower.

In regions with strong winds, ageratum bushes should be protected from gusts of wind.

Depending on the planting scheme and the varietal characteristics of the plants, planting holes are prepared, the depth and width of which slightly exceeds the root ball of the plants.

Since ageratum is often grown as a flower border along the border of a flower bed, the distance between the bushes is usually kept equal to 15 - 20 cm.

If the land on the site is too heavy, clayey, then river sand and humus are mixed into it.

The flower also does not like planting in acidic soil, so the earth can first be shed with lime milk for deoxidation.

Seedlings are watered abundantly 1 - 2 hours before planting in open ground.

The bushes are transferred by the transshipment method - they are removed from the cups along with a lump of earth and placed in the center of the planting holes.

The plants are sprinkled with earth and lightly tamped, and then watered with warm water.

After planting, the flower should be at the same depth as in the pot.

The bases of the bushes can be mulched with a small layer of sawdust, straw or cut grass. A layer of mulch will prevent moisture from evaporating from the soil surface too quickly and delay the development of weeds.

If at night there is a high probability of return frosts, then the flowers are covered with non-woven agromaterial on top.

In the future, caring for plants is reduced to weeding and loosening the earth, timely watering.

It is advisable to water it in the morning, so that the moisture has time to evaporate before dusk and the sun does not fall on wet leaves.

Top dressing in the open field can be carried out only 2 - 3 times per season - 2 weeks after planting, after another 2 weeks - for abundant bud formation and the third - during flowering.The third top dressing is more appropriate for those flowers that will be grown as perennials and winter indoors.

In mid-autumn, when the temperature drops below zero at night, ageratum bushes are weeded out or planted in pots.

Plants cannot stand wintering in open ground even under cover.

Dates for planting pansies in the ground

Pansies, which were grown by seedlings, are transferred to open soil when the temperature outside reaches + 15˚C, including at night. In the case of container growing - in balcony boxes, portable pots on the veranda or terrace, plants can be taken out earlier. The main thing is to remove containers with flowers at night if the temperature is still unstable and there are risks of recurrent spring frosts.

The time of transfer of plants to a permanent place in open soil largely depends on the climatic conditions of the region. However, there are other issues that affect the timing of the transplant. So, one of these factors is the phase of the moon. The celestial body has a significant effect on sap flow in plants. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant on favorable days when the manipulation will not harm the viola.

Lunar calendar

Florists look at the lunar calendar and plan all the manipulations so that they are performed on an auspicious day for a particular procedure. Plant breeders are guided by the recommendations of astrologers not only for germination. Also, the lunar calendar is viewed to determine favorable days for picking, transplanting, weeding, fertilizing, preventive treatment, as well as combating diseases and pests. The table shows the dates on which the viola can be transferred to a permanent place in open soil, and there are also days when this manipulation is undesirable.

The rest of the days are suitable as landing days, but they are referred to as neutral. That is, on these dates, the celestial body does not have a significant effect on vegetation. Pansies planted in neutral numbers will be able to adapt normally in a permanent place, but problems are possible. Nevertheless, there will be no significant difficulties with the acclimatization of plants, as on unfavorable dates.

By the peculiarities of the climate of the region

Seedlings of pansies begin to be sown and grown so that they are sufficiently developed before they are planted in open soil. When young vegetation has already sprouted enough and is ready for transplantation to a permanent place, the seedlings are carefully removed from temporary containers and placed in the prepared area. The approximate terms for the regions in accordance with their climate are as follows:

1. Urals and Siberia - for the most part, flower growers grow pansies in a container way, using balcony boxes or portable pots for this. When the temperature is less than + 15˚ C, the plants are brought into the room. Before the second half of June, the viola is not left outside overnight.
2. The middle lane - Moscow region, Tula, Bryansk, Smolensk, Kaluga and other regions - grown seedlings are transplanted into open soil in the second or third June decade. Sometimes, if the spring is warm, they are planted in the last days of May. Nevertheless, it is advisable to organize additional warming of the plant by pouring sawdust or shavings, since at night the temperature periodically drops below + 15˚ C, and pansies can hardly tolerate such conditions. In the autumn season, before wintering, the bushes are completely covered with shavings.
3. Leningrad Region - the timing of planting in open soil is approximately the same as in the case of Siberia or the Urals. Nevertheless, it is not necessary to bring it in at night, but additional insulation of the bushes with sawdust or shavings needs to be done. For the winter, plantings are completely covered with shavings or sawdust.
4. Southern regions - Crimea, Krasnodar Territory, Caucasus - seedlings are planted in open soil in early April. For the winter, it is not necessary to cover the bushes with sawdust or wood shavings, but it is recommended to sprinkle it with earth. Warming is removed with the onset of the first warm days.

In some situations, when spring is early, it is permissible to start transplanting young plants to a permanent place in the garden or front garden earlier than the specified time. Nevertheless, it is recommended to first look at the weather forecast for the next 2-4 weeks in order to precisely exclude the risks of recurrent night frosts. If they are not there, then it is permissible to transfer the seedlings to open ground, but at night you need to lightly sprinkle the plants with shavings (sawdust) or cover with a film - for insulation.

Mallow care

Caring for perennial mallows can be mastered even by a novice summer resident. It includes: regular removal of weeds, watering, loosening of the soil. Also, to stimulate the growth of plants, especially young ones, fertilizing is imperative.

Watering

Watering our flowers should not be too frequent and abundant. In normal sunny weather, 1-2 abundant watering per week is enough for active growth and development of these flowers. If the weather is too dry, water the mallow after 2 days and a little more abundantly than usual. But even in severe drought, perennial mallow will not disappear due to the presence of long roots that penetrate into the deep layers of the soil. The stock rose especially needs an abundant amount of moisture during the massive blooming of the buds. The splendor of its flowering depends on this. The main thing when watering this plant is to prevent stagnation of moisture in the soil.

Flower feeding

Caring for the mallow necessarily includes feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Moreover, when applied to the soil, they should be in a small dosage. We apply top dressing under mallow from the beginning of summer with an interval of 18-20 days. The annual application of organic matter (compost or humus) to the soil in the amount of 3 kg / sq. Is very favorable for the development and growth. m. Before the buds appear on the flowers, we feed the plants with complex mineral fertilizers. Perennial mallow responds very well to mulching its plantings with peat or compost. We carry out this procedure throughout the vegetative period.

Loosening

Despite the fact that perennial mallow is a rather large and spreading plant, but with its powerful root system, which desperately needs air access, flowers need periodic loosening of the soil

In the process of loosening the soil, care must be taken not to damage the lower leaves of the flowers and their roots. Damage to the root system can provoke the death of a still immature young plant.

Support

Since mallow is a fairly tall plant, caring for it may include the construction of supports. Peduncles are tied to them in areas that cannot be protected from drafts and strong winds.

To reproduce mallow with our own seeds from dead plants, we collect them in the middle of summer.

These flowers also need shelter for the winter. This is especially true for those grown in more northern latitudes. For normal wintering of the stock rose, it is enough to cover the mallow plantings with a thick layer of fallen leaves. Ordinary straw is also suitable for this. Under such a shelter, a perennial is not afraid even of severe frosts.

Disease and pest control methods

The care of these flowers also includes the fight against various diseases that can affect this plant. Perennial mallow suffers from powdery mildew and leaf mosaics.In order to prevent the defeat of these diseases, it is impossible to plant a mallow in those areas where these diseases were previously noticed. The stock rose is sometimes affected by rust, which appears as brown spots on the foliage. You can improve the condition of the flower by regularly removing the leaves damaged by diseases. We burn all plant residues. Fungicide preparations (Phyto-doctor, Trichodermin, Mikosan-V) will help with the above diseases. To combat rust, a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used, which is sprayed on all plants. In the future, we do not plant perennial mallow at the place of rust appearance for 2-3 years.

Care also consists in combating such flower pests as aphids and spider mites, for which we use insecticidal preparations such as Fitoverm, Kinmiks, Fufanon, Bi-58, Lepidocid.