Sunflower features
The sunflower oilseed plant (Helianthus annuus) is an annual. The height of the bush is about 250 cm, it has a rod system of roots, which penetrates into the soil to a depth of 200 to 300 cm. The non-branching erect stem has a soft and elastic core, there are hard hairs on its surface. The upper leaf plates are sessile, alternately located, and the lower ones are oppositely located long-petiolate. Their shape is oval-heart-shaped with a pointed tip, their edge is serrated, and on the surface there is pubescence, represented by a hard pile. The length of the leaves is about 0.4 m. The flowers collected in very large baskets are surrounded by wrapping leaves. The peculiarity of the sunflower is that its buds and young baskets are able to turn after the sun, while during the day they change their orientation from east to west. However, as the bush grows and matures, the position of the basket is fixed, however, the foliage continues to turn behind the sun. The length of the marginal ligulate flowers is 40–70 mm, they are sterile. There are a lot of inner flowers and they are bisexual tubular. As a rule, only 1 inflorescence grows in an oilseed sunflower, but in some cases additional shoots with small baskets are formed. Flowering lasts about 4 weeks and is observed in July – August. Cross pollination by insects and wind. The fruits are slightly compressed achenes of an oblong shape with weakly pronounced edges, their length is 0.8–1.5 cm, and their width is 0.4–0.8 cm. The leathery pericarp is covered with a husk (skin) of white, black, gray or striped color. Inside each seed is a white core, covered with a seed coat. Such a plant is considered an excellent honey plant.
How to plant perennial phlox seeds for seedlings. Growing perennial phlox from seeds
Perennial phloxes are planted with seeds, usually for the purpose of obtaining a large number of plants, for example, to create borders, dividing lines in the garden.
You can buy seeds in the store or collect seed boxes in the garden yourself in the fall.
Note! Phlox from seeds, with proper care, bloom in the second year. Just be sure to cover them for the winter !. Phlox seeds can be sown before winter in open ground or in late winter-early spring for seedlings
Phlox seeds can be sown before winter in open ground or in late winter and early spring for seedlings.
Sowing in autumn in open ground
If you are going to sow phlox seeds directly to the beds in late autumn (October-November), then it is very convenient to do this in plastic rings that can be cut out of plastic 5 liter bottles. According to the sowing rules before winter, it is necessary to sow only on frozen soil and cover it with dry soil without watering.
Advice! It is advisable to increase the sowing rate in winter compared to sowing seeds in containers.
Sowing in spring for seedlings
It is convenient to sow phlox at home in disposable containers with a lid, in which drainage holes must be made.
You can take the most common universal soil for growing seedlings, preferably with vermicompost. The soil should be fertile and loose.
Step-by-step instructions for sowing perennial phlox seeds:
- Place about half of the soil in containers. Level well.
- Spill the soil before planting with phytosporin solution to disinfect it.
- Spread the seeds neatly and evenly over the surface. Seedlings of perennial phlox are not small, they are convenient to sow.
- Sprinkle some soil on top.
- Cover the container with a lid or spunbond.
- Now you will need to put the container with crops in fresh air under the snow, as close to the ground as possible (it is best to put it on a board or plywood so that there is a flat surface). In such conditions, the most acceptable temperature for the germination of phlox seeds is kept. Thus, they will undergo natural stratification.
If you do not have the opportunity to bring containers with crops to the garden (for example, you live in an apartment, and you cannot get to the dacha in winter), then you can use another method of growing phlox from seeds.
Pre-soaked seeds are kept for 2 weeks at a temperature of + 18-22 C degrees. Then it is mixed with sand and removed for stratification in the refrigerator for 6 or more weeks before the seeds are hatched. After that, they are planted in containers to a depth of 1 cm and grown at home at a temperature of + 17-25 C degrees.
Planting in open ground and further care for perennial phlox
When phlox seedlings have 5-6 true leaves, they should be planted in open ground. Usually this period comes around in May, the frost will just pass, and the seedlings will no longer be threatened.
It is advisable to choose a place that is sunny or with light partial shade.
The soil for the normal development of a flower requires loose and fertile, rich in organic matter. If your soil is too heavy, add sand, peat, or any other soil loosener to it.
Further care for phlox consists in regular watering as the soil dries up, loosening and weeding from weeds, as well as timely feeding.
Advice! If you want to achieve better tillering (branching), then pinch over 4-5 pairs of leaves.
It is especially important to carry out frequent watering on hot and dry summer days, otherwise the flowering will not be so plentiful and saturated.
It is important not to overflow the flower, since the plant does not tolerate stagnant water well, it can simply rot. Worth knowing! It is advisable to replant phloxes every 4-6 years to a new place.
Worth knowing! It is advisable to replant phloxes every 4-6 years to a new place.
As a rule, phloxes begin to be fed with nitrogen in the spring to build up green mass. Urea, ammonium nitrate can be used as such a fertilizer. Plants will also be grateful for organic feeding. So, you can fertilize with fermented mullein infusion (diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15) or chicken droppings (in a ratio of 1:25 to water). The following dressings during budding and active flowering, of course, should already be without nitrogen (or with it the minimum amount), but exclusively with the use of potassium and phosphorus. Wood ash is great for this.
If you want to prolong the flowering of phlox, then remove the dried inflorescences of early and mid-late varieties of this plant in time.
Important! Read more about caring for phlox in the fall and preparing them for winter (pruning, shelter) in more detail in this article.
Growing sunflower seeds
Sowing
It is not recommended to grow sunflower seedlings in seedlings, since the seedlings that have appeared in the soil can withstand not very large frosts. However, if it is simply necessary to grow seedlings of such a plant, then it should be remembered that the sowing of seeds is carried out 20-25 days before the plants are transplanted into open soil. For sowing, use individual containers (for example, cut plastic bottles or pots), the height of which should be from 28 to 30 centimeters, while at their bottom there must be holes for drainage. Fill the containers with nutrient soil mixed with humus, while the substrate must always be moist. It is necessary to plant 1-2 seeds in each container, burying them into the substrate by 30-40 mm, do not forget to compact the soil mixture well, because the seed should be embraced by it from all sides. The containers are covered with foil on top and transferred to a warm place.
Growing sunflower seedlings
After the seedlings appear, the containers will need to be transferred to a well-lit place. It is very simple to care for the seedlings, for this they need to be watered in a timely manner, carefully loosened the surface of the substrate and systematically ventilated. When about 7 days remain before transplanting into open soil, the seedlings will need to be hardened, for this they are taken outside every day, while the duration of the procedure should be increased gradually.
Picking
Due to the fact that such a plant tolerates transplants very painfully, it is not recommended to dive seedlings. Planting seedlings in open soil is carried out in the first days of June along with a lump of earth by the transshipment method. When planting a plant, you must adhere to the following scheme: 100x100 centimeters. Planting must be done very carefully in order to avoid injury to the plant root system.
Auspicious days for planting aquilegia in 2019
Aquilegia, or otherwise - the catchment, is distinguished by a completely unusual flower shape with a short curved or long straight spur.
The flowers are located on tall peduncles that rise above the dense foliage. Aquilegia is a perennial plant, which, nevertheless, regularly (every 3 to 4 years) needs planting updates.
However, this is usually not a problem, because catchments reproduce well by self seeding.
Section 1. Growing aquilegia from seed
It is best to sow aquilegia in the ground immediately after collecting the seeds, and in the spring, when shoots appear, transplant them to a permanent place. But if you have to postpone sowing until spring, then store the seed at a low temperature. So that during the winter the seeds of aquilegia do not lose their germination, they are mixed with earth and placed in the refrigerator.
In the spring, in March, the seeds are washed from the ground, sown in boxes with a well-compacted and watered light substrate of humus, sand and leafy earth in equal proportions. A 3 mm layer of soil is poured on top of the spread seeds through a fine sieve and the box is covered with newspaper or burlap.
Keep containers with crops in a shaded room at a temperature of 16-18 ºC, moistening the topsoil as needed from a spray bottle. Sprouts usually appear within a week or two from the day of sowing.
When the first pair of true leaves appears - usually in late April or early May - the seedlings are transplanted into more nutritious loamy soil.
Section 2. Reproduction by dividing the bush
This method is rarely used due to the fragility of the plant and the inconvenience of working with a deep root system. But if it is necessary to transplant the plant by dividing, then they do it in late summer or early spring.
The plant is dug up, almost all leaves are cut off with a pruner, except for a few of the youngest and strongest, the root system is thoroughly washed.
Further, leaving cuttings about 7 cm long, the taproot is cut lengthwise into several parts, leaving on each of them a few small roots and several buds.
Each section is planted in a nutritious and loose soil, a constant irrigation regime must be observed. When the plant is accepted, care continues as for an adult plant.
Section 3. Cuttings
Aquilegia can also be cut, which is applicable for varietal and ornamental plants. Cuttings are broken out from the mother bush and planted for rooting in clean river sand.
It is advisable to create a small greenhouse or simply cover the future plants with a film. Aquilegia should provide a shaded area and regular spraying with clean water.
Planting aquilegia should be preceded by treatment with a growth stimulant.
Section 4. Site Selection
It is advisable to choose a place for growing an adult plant with diffused light. In this case, the green mass will be the most lush, and the flowers will be large. Flowering lasts as long as possible. Aquilegia can grow on any soil, but prefers light, loose nutrient soils.Therefore, the planting hole is filled with a mixture of earth with compost or humus.
Section 5. Seed Preparation
Optimal seed germination is maintained only a year after harvest, with the obligatory passage of the stratification procedure. When planted in autumn, this stage occurs naturally. When sowing in spring, stratification must be carried out artificially: Mix the seeds with wet sand or earth; Pack the mixture of soil and seeds in a bag; Put the package in the refrigerator for 2-3 months.
Section 6. Landing
Soils for planting aquilegia are suitable for any, with the exception of very heavy loams.
When planting an aquilegia, it is necessary to make a hole that would be at least twenty centimeters. Next, you need to fill it with a loose nutritious soil mixture.
After planting the plants, it is necessary to ensure that the soil does not become compacted and also does not get wet.
When planting aquilegia in shaded areas, it is necessary to plant bushes less often to provide good ventilation, which will prevent various diseases.
Chapter 3. Aquilegia care after planting
Aquilegia refers to plants that do not require special farming techniques. However, it quickly responds to the attentive attitude to its natural features:
Aquilegia loves moisture very much, but they almost never experience a lack of it. This is facilitated by a powerful root system. However, waterlogging can cause the development of undesirable diseases; Loosening of the upper soil layer, increases the permeability of the soil;
Timely removal of weeds prevents the accumulation of pests in the aquilegia planting.
Brief information about the cosme
The charming cosme has other names: Cosmos, Moscow daisy, Disheveled young lady.
The most popular type of this culture: Kosmeya Double-Feathered (and its hybrids). Presented in the photo below. The species is annual, has a height of about 0.8-1.5 m. The inflorescences have a diameter of about 10 centimeters.
Other types of cosme are grown, but they are less popular: Kosmeya Terry (annual), Sulfur-yellow (annual), Chocolate (perennial).
The flowering of the annual cosme is absolutely charming! Its inflorescences are distinguished by their delicate, delicate beauty. They can be pink, white, red, purple and other shades of the white-red palette. The main features of this plant: space is very unpretentious and drought-resistant.
Moscow chamomile has the ability to reproduce independently through self-seeding. The gardener is only required not to pluck the faded inflorescences so that the seeds can safely crumble to the ground.
Kosmeya can be tall, medium and short. However, the most common are tall and medium-sized plants.
Therefore, be sure to pay attention to the information on the package in order to buy a variety with the optimal height.
An annual blooms, as a rule, from July to frost. But growing through seedlings allows you to see flowering a little earlier.
To fully enjoy the delicate beauty of the cosmos, you need to choose a suitable landing site. The plant grows well and blooms exclusively in sunny areas. It is also desirable that the location be protected from the wind. The soil should be loose, light, moderately nutritious. Do not plant the plant in areas with shade, moisture stagnation, heavy soil.
How to grow hosta at home
Hosta home - the plant is unpretentious, adapts well to any conditions and this flower can be called a plant for the lazy.
Consider all methods of breeding hosts at home
If you seriously decide to start breeding this plant and grow hosta from seeds at home, you need to pay special attention to the preparation of the seeds. Preparing seeds and growing hosts at home:
Preparing seeds and growing hosts at home:
- Before sowing seeds in pots, they need to be soaked for 30 minutes in aloe juice or any other growth stimulant. For example, root or epin is suitable.The fact is that the seeds are very weak and they have poor germination. Therefore, experts advise to do the same, or to harden the seeds with cold: keep in the cold for 4 weeks.
- A sterile substrate is also an important point, there should be no microorganisms and fungus in the soil, since the seedlings, although they will rise, will be weak and painful. For this reason, experts recommend purchasing a ready-made substrate in a store. You need to add vermiculite, peat or perlite to it. Or buy a substrate with these components right away.
- Pot processing is a must. The pot must be wiped with a solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol. Then you can start filling the pot with the previously prepared substrate (moistening). A little drainage should be poured at the bottom and moistened soil should be placed. Sprinkle seeds on top and cover with a small layer of earth, about 1 cm thick or slightly less. Light compaction is allowed so that moisture from the soil does not evaporate too quickly. But for the preservation of moisture, you still need to cover the pot with a bag or a glass flask, you can use a cut plastic bottle.
- The soil temperature at this stage should be at least +18 degrees, and even better - up to +25 degrees. Then the seedlings will appear faster. It is necessary to wait for the appearance of the first shoots within 2-3 weeks.
- The seedlings are still weak, so they must be protected from direct sunlight. It is necessary to remove condensate in a timely manner and ensure timely watering.
- Seeds thrive in a shaded area until the first shoots, then they need more light.
- Hosta pick - as soon as the first pair of leaves appears. Then you can plant the seedlings in separate pots.
- Pour drainage into the pots, a layer of store soil and fine sifted sand on top.
- At first, the seedlings need to be moistened with bottom watering: pour water into the pan, put the pot in it and wait until the soil layer is thoroughly wet.
- Hardening of seedlings: the film can be removed for 1-2 hours during the day, the plants can be left in the open air if the outside temperature is optimal (not lower than +18 degrees and there is no gusty wind).
- The home flower of the host develops slowly, so you need to be patient, and also take into account the factor that the host's seeds can lose varietal characteristics. Therefore, do not rely on the shape of the leaves, color and patterns.
One of the most common and easiest ways to propagate this plant is by grafting and dividing the bush. If this is an adult plant, aged from 4 years, it perfectly tolerates division and this procedure will not affect development and growth in any way. If manipulation is performed at an early age, growth rates may be inhibited. But it all depends on the type of plant and the climate. Some hosts will perfectly tolerate the division procedure, and some will need a long recovery period of 1-2 years.
Features of reproduction of hosts by cuttings:
Dates: late summer or spring. But you can propagate the hosta with the onset of spring and until mid-autumn, that is, the entire warm period
As soon as shoots appear, in early spring, the hosta must be carefully dug up with a pitchfork so as not to damage the rhizomes and carefully divided into several parts with a sharp knife or shovel. How to divide the rhizomes with a pitchfork: you need to insert a pitchfork, bring it down and push it apart - this method will not injure the plant as much as when dividing with a sharp knife
Some gardeners are in no hurry to dig out the whole bush, but carefully separate a small triangle from an adult plant. The resulting hole is filled with fertile soil. If by chance, when you divided the bush, the roots broke off, but the shoots still have a piece of rhizome, do not worry. You need to place the stalk in a greenhouse, plant in the shade and cover with a plastic bottle (transparent). After a few weeks, the young plant should take root. In order for the hosta to take root faster, you need to cut the foliage in half from the cuttings.
