Weigela: planting and care in the open field

Weigela care and cultivation

Caring for the shrub is uncomplicated, it is unpretentious and can grow on a site of any size. With the help of bushes, Weigels create hedges, decorate a resting place or hide the imperfections of the site behind it.

Weigela needs constant supervision and care

Particular attention is paid to the shrub after winter. When the bush is slightly frozen after winter, it is watered abundantly with warm water.

It is necessary to increase watering during the fertilization period. Mineral additives are better absorbed when there is a lot of water.

In hot summer, it is also worth increasing the amount of water. Moderate watering ensures good development of the shrub. At the same time, if you overdo it with liquid, the root system of the bush will rot

Be careful when watering

Weigela is fed 2 times a year. Potassium salt (10 grams), superphosphate (10 grams) and urea (20 grams) are perfect for this purpose. All substances must be mixed until a homogeneous consistency and scattered around the Weigela bushes. One bush accounts for 40 grams of fertilizer. Together with the melted snow, minerals are absorbed into the ground and get to the root system.

Top dressing will provide the plant with the necessary strength at the time of its awakening. The second time the shrub is fed at the end of April before the flowering period. For feeding, take a mixture of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, each element should be 50%.

The mixture is applied in the amount of 60 grams per square meter. Fertilizer is scattered around the bush, and then the area is watered abundantly. This will be enough for the plant to grow well and delight with its flowers.

In the spring, Weigelu is pruned, old and dry shoots are removed, and a bush of the desired shape is formed. Once every few years, the bush is cut almost at the root. After that, the plant rejuvenates, new, flexible and young shoots grow.

If you violate the mode of caring for a shrub, it may be difficult to grow it. Spider mites, root rot and aphids are frequent guests where the plant is launched.

Wisteria care and cultivation in the middle lane in the country, in the garden

Wisteria care

In order for a plant to grow well and delight with its beautiful flowering, it is enough to provide it with six hours a day of continuous sunlight.

During the period when wisteria blooms, it will need abundant watering. Never allow the soil to dry out.

In order for the leaves of the creeper to be saturated, and the inflorescences to be bright, it is necessary that the earth is constantly slightly moist. So they will look healthy and sparkling, with luscious greenery and the brightness of blooming brushes.

It is necessary to start caring for wisteria from the moment of planting, because it is at this time that it is worth preparing a reliable support that can withstand strong winds.

We advise:

Do not count on the independent entanglement of the liana-like wisteria around the prepared support, tie it up yourself. So, the autumn work on removal and shelter will be safer.

What fertilizer do you need

Blooming wisteria

From the moment the initial buds appear, your wisteria already needs fertilizers.

As a rule, you need to use them once a week.

1. Mineral fertilizers, which are diluted in a ratio of 10 liters of water to 20 g of substance. Used on 1 square meter of the area where the tree-like vine grows. It should be alternated with the introduction of organic matter.
2. Mullein, which is bred 1:20.
3. Compost is an equally important fertilizer.
4. Chalk solution. It is necessary to dilute 100 g of chalk in 1 bucket.

It should be remembered that wisteria is a leguminous plant, therefore, nitrogen fertilizers should be used with extreme caution.They cannot be fertilized during the active germination of buds, as this will lead to the fact that the vines will begin to release beautiful saturated leaves, and budding will be suspended

They cannot be fertilized during the active germination of buds, as this will lead to the fact that the vines will begin to release beautiful saturated leaves, and budding will be suspended.

Loosening the soil and removing weeds

Throughout the season, the land that surrounds the wisteria must be periodically loosened, as it prefers to grow on light soil. As a rule, this procedure is carried out after the soil has been watered. It is imperative to remove weeds, as they can interfere with the growth of vines. Near the base of the trunk, the soil can be mulched. This will help maintain moisture and also save you the hassle of loosening. For this, it is allowed to use sawdust or dry peat.

How to properly trim wisteria

Correct pruning

If you want the plant to give beautiful and thick inflorescences, and also delight you for a long time, then it should be cut in a timely manner and correctly.

As a rule, inflorescences appear on last year's branches or vines that have arisen even earlier. Blooming young shoots are rare.

In order for the flower buds to form correctly, last year's shoots are cut off, leaving their length no more than 30 cm.This procedure is carried out in late May or early summer, it all depends on the season in which the wisteria blooms. The main role in the process is played by the time frame in which the work is done. It is necessary to cut the vines 2 times a year, starting from the scheme shown below.

At the time of planting, a certain pruning scheme should be followed:

• With the help of a pruner, you need to cut the main vine to a strong bud, which is located at a height of about 75-90 cm.
• In order to stimulate the growth of the main shoot, it is necessary to remove all lateral branches.

In the second year of growth, the main trunk and several lateral vines should be cut into 3 buds, which will allow them to bloom next year.

For 3 years and in all subsequent years it is necessary:

• To begin with, it is worth doing the same procedure as with a young plant. This will allow the main shoot and side vines to grow.
• Be sure to remove excess growth at the base of the plant.

What pests can attack a vine

As a rule, they are:

1. Caterpillars eating leaves. In order to get rid of them, wisteria should be sprayed with a biological preparation.
2. If you notice that the flowers and leaves of the plant are affected, then this is the first sign of a green aphid. To eliminate it, it is worth using insecticides.
3. When the leaves take on an unnatural bronze color, it means that the plant has been attacked by a clover mite. Treatment with acaricides will help clear wisteria from the pest.

Diseases affecting the plant

If there is too much alkali in the soil, then wisteria can develop chlorosis. Yellowed leaves will help determine the disease. Iron salts are used to save the plant.

Pulmonary hemorrhage treatment

The algorithm for the treatment of pulmonary hemorrhage is known to every specialist.

The treatment course contains a set of measures:

1. Oxygen is administered through a nasal catheter - oxygen therapy.
2. The introduction of diuretics is shown. A strong and fast-acting remedy is Lasix.
3. Diphenhydramine and Pipolfen have antihistamine and sedative effects.
4. The strength of heart contractions is increased by Korglikon, Strofantin.
5. Blood clotting is accelerated by Gordox, sodium ethamsylate, Vikasol.
6. An agonizing cough is suppressed by Promedol, Dionin, Codeine.
7. Ketorol, Analgin help to get rid of pain.
8. With a large loss of blood, replacement therapy is performed. Ringer, Polyglyukin, Trisol are administered to patients.
9. To lower blood pressure, Clonidine, Benzohexonium, Arfonad, Pentamin are used.

The first aid for this disease is to put the patient in a position in which blood flows naturally from the upper body. The position is reclining, legs are lowered.

At a high intensity of bleeding, fluid from the lungs is pumped out using special medical equipment. With small (hemoptysis), this procedure is not needed.

If a specific vessel or area in the airway is bleeding (for example, due to trauma), then the bronchoscopy procedure with the introduction of a special probe will allow for "local" healing of the damaged area.

With extremely intense volumes of fluid secretion or large-scale damage to the lung tissue, doctors often have no choice but to perform surgery. Surgically, sutures are applied to damaged vessels (in the first case) or a destroyed fragment of an organ is removed (in the second).

After stopping bleeding, restorative or maintenance therapy is performed. Its shape is determined by the nature of the damage. So, with a high blood loss, transfusion or the introduction of compensating drugs is prescribed.

Taking antibiotics to prevent the onset or spread of infection is prescribed in any case, as well as the treatment of the initial disease, which caused the appearance of bleeding.

Reproduction of weigela

Professional gardeners use 3 methods of crop propagation: layering, rooting of cuttings and sowing seeds. To preserve the varietal properties of weigels (growth, color of leaves and flowers), they are bred with layering or rooted cuttings. When planted with seeds, the outside bush sometimes differs from the parents.

Rooting by layering

One of the most elementary and high-quality breeding methods for weigela. Layers are rooted in early spring before the flowering of the leaves. Basic steps:

• Pick up a strong branch that is quite close to the ground. If a choice is required, between a weak or strong process, then the 2nd option should be given preference;
• Slightly loosen the soil under the branch, to a depth of no more than 1–2 cm. Pour a mound of fertile loose soil layer;
• In the lower part of the process, which touches the ground, the bark is weakly scraped. In the place of the cut, new roots will begin to appear very soon;
• The branch is bent to the level of the soil, reinforced with iron wire or a hairpin. Sprinkle fertile soil on the branch;
• Thoroughly moisten the soil by irrigation. In order to preserve moisture in the ground, a film cover is performed. A couple of times a season, the future seedling is poured and ventilated. For the winter, the cover is removed from the film;
• After a year, the rooted cuttings are planted in a stable place. For this, a branch is cut off from a bush, young plantings are dug up and a pick is carried out.

Cuttings

For reproduction of weigels in the summer stage (May-June), young semi-lignified shoots are used. Green tops are not used for growths, but only the lower part of the process is cut off. For spring rooting (March), cuttings are selected from not bad lignified last year's shoots.

Weigela cuttings rooting technology:

• The shoot is divided into cuttings 10 cm long.When young shoots are used, the 2 upper leaves are certainly retained. Cut off other leaves;
• For the best rooting, the place of the cut is covered with “root” powder. Such a product contributes to the rapid formation of roots;
• The container with drainage holes is filled with special soil. One of the best methods is a 1: 1 mixture of peat and sand;
• At a distance of 10 cm from each other, a recess is made in the ground. On 2/3 of the part, the cutting is dipped into the hole and the soil is slightly tamped. The earth is moistened with warm water;
• Boxes with cuttings are placed in a warm, sunny place. For summer introduction, it is recommended to take out the capacity with cuttings to the greenhouse and cover with agrofibre. Plantings are certainly weathered.

Sowing weigela seeds

With seed copying, the varietal properties of an ornamental shrub are very rarely preserved. Sometimes the color of the flowers, the type of bush or the tone of the leaves change. But still, you should try this method of propagating a shrub.

You can try to collect seeds with your own hands from adult bushes or buy in a store. This is done by the following method:

• Seeds are harvested in September. Cover the seed box with a cloth bag so that the seeds do not sleep well during formation;
• In late October - early November, a box of seeds is cut and dried on the newspaper. Seeds are kept in cardboard bags, no more than 2 years.

The accumulated seeds are sown on the garden bed before winter, for the next year in spring, or in special containers. Seed planting technology:

• In early spring, they dig up the bed on the bayonet of the scapula. The earth is enriched with organic matter. In the role of fertility, humus or compost is added. If the earth is clayey, then a little sand is required;
• The garden bed is fenced off with bumpers on all sides. The selection of the area should be taken seriously. In one place, the plantings ripen for at least 3 years. Arcs are placed on the garden bed and covered with agrofibre, which will protect the seedlings from the sun and wind;
• Sowing of seeds is carried out in the 2nd half of May. Weigela seeds are laid out on a flat plane. Sprinkle with a not very large layer of peat or coconut substrate. The earth is moistened with a spray bottle. Cover the bed with agrofibre;
• Before germination, moisten the garden every day. The first plants appear after 3 weeks.

Landing

Effective landing action will be only if it was carried out according to all the rules. The following components can be distinguished here:

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• a place;
• priming;
• landing algorithm.

Choosing a landing site

Before planting and thinking about caring for the action in the open field, you should find a place for it. This is a light-loving shrub, but direct sunlight will negatively affect it, as well as drafts. The southern or western slope is perfect for planting.

Therefore, when choosing a place for action, it is best to stay at a short distance from the tree, about 2 m. There should be no trees or buildings nearby.

The following requirements exist for the soil. Best of all, an exotic bush will grow in the ground:

• nutritious;
• moderately moist;
• loose;
• drained;
• with a slightly alkaline reaction.

When self-preparing the soil, you should take 2 parts of humus, the same amount of sand and 1 part of peat compost. With an increased acid reaction of the soil, 300 g of slaked lime should be added before planting in the ground.

We plant a bush in open ground

Those who plant the action in open ground for the first time do not know when to do it. So, it is best to plant in the spring. Then there is a lot of time before frost and the seedling will have time to get stronger. But as for the Moscow region, planting in open ground and caring for the action has its own characteristics. You should choose according to the weather. The time will come when the ground will thaw, but the buds have not yet blossomed on the trees.

Since the Urals have severe winters, any variety for planting in this region will not work. To grow an exotic bush, residents of this area should select winter-hardy varieties. Hybrids that are characterized by increased winter hardiness are also suitable.

We sit down, adhering to the following algorithm:

1. We prepare a pit, the depth of which should be 50 cm.
2. Lay out the drainage layer.
3. We pour a little on the drainage of the prepared soil, adding 100 g of nitrophosphate.
4. We omit the root. At the same time, the root collar should remain on the surface.
5. We fall asleep with earth, it must be tamped, the soil mixture should be moistened.
6. Around the seedling, the site should be mulched. The ground is covered with peat 4-5 cm.

Astilba care

In addition to timely watering, top dressing and soil loosening, it is necessary to take into account the gradual dying off of the lower rhizome and the growth of the upper one, which requires observation and hilling.The answer to the question of why astilbe grows poorly is often the influence of the environment on the exposed rhizome, which is vulnerable to it.

With proper care, Astilba can please the eye for a long time.

How to water a flower

Astilba, the care of which primarily implies sufficient watering, gains from 15 to 200 cm in height. She decorates the shaded areas of the cottage and garden with her broomsticks growing from 10 to 60 cm.

The amount of watering depends on the variety, mainly medium to high amounts of water. It should be sufficient to maintain soil moisture; the soil should not be allowed to dry out. This is usually 2-3 times a week. In the heat, the bush is watered at least once a day; watering in the morning and evening would be a good option.

Note! Correct mulching will help reduce the amount of water consumed per plant. It also prevents the formation of weeds and keeps the roots from overheating.

Fertilization

The time for top dressing comes several times a year:

• Nitrogen fertilizers in early spring. They can be applied in a mixture with soil for hilling.
• Potassium nitrate in an amount of half a liter per bush from 1 tbsp. l. 5 liters of water before summer flowering.
• 1 tbsp. l. dry superphosphate on the bush at the end.
• In the fall, phosphorus and potassium are introduced in 1-2 tbsp. l. fertilizer diluted with water on a bush, they will completely dissolve only by spring.

Pre-watering is mandatory, although it can be replaced by rain. The soil should subsequently be loosened and covered with mulch.

Features of care during flowering

Astilba flowers are colored red, purple, white and pink. In the motley genus of this saxifrage, there are varieties that differ in the pyramidal, drooping and rhombic inflorescences. A graceful bush is formed from massive dark green leaves planted on long petioles, which blooms from early to late summer.

In this season, the need for flowering astilba in water increases. Faded stems of flowers are cut at will, they retain the effect of ennobling the garden and being semi-dry. Spreading as it grows, the shrub itself displaces weeds, but the soil still needs loosening and mulch.

It is not recommended to allow the flowering of plants less than a year old; it is better to prune their peduncles even before the formation of panicles. So the roots of young seedlings will get stronger, and it will be easier for them to survive the winter.

Features of care during the rest period

In addition to feeding in early autumn, another important stage is pruning the ground section of the bush. It is performed with a pruner, which is disinfected in a pink solution of potassium sour manganese for half an hour after each flower in order to prevent possible infection. It can be introduced during flowering, or it can be caused by a fungus that appears as a result of stagnant water in the soil. It is also one of the reasons for poor growth, drying, deformation and yellowing of the leaves.

An equally beautiful plant in the fall needs to be prepared for the snow.

If there is no need for seeds, it is better to cut the flower stalks before their formation, since this will take the plant's strength. The time to delete the rest depends on the region, the deadline is late November. This plant is of the rhizome type; upon the onset of autumn frosts, the ground part of the flower dies off, growing back in spring. When the first frosts come, the bush will begin to dry out and darken. This indicates the time to cut dry stems and shoots.

Note! It is recommended to get rid of severely ailing flowers, the soil and the plant should be treated with a foundation at the first symptoms of infection

Preparing for winter

Pruning is done for more reliable mulching for the winter, the layer thickness of which should be from 5 to 10 cm. In winter, you do not need to take care of the flower. If the ground part is retained in whole or in part, the plant will be less protected.

Despite its resistance to frost, in cold weather with a small amount of snow, the shrub can freeze out.Rhizomes older than 5 years will already slightly protrude from the ground, for their shelter for the winter, it is necessary to build a small fence of boards or stones in the garden, fill the inner space with dry leaves, and stretch a non-woven fabric on top, for fidelity fixed with stones at the edges.