Why did the leaves of the orchid shriveled and lost their turgor?

Important details

If the flower did not have enough moisture, then it is urgent to water it. This will help restore the plant to its former beauty. A small amount of succinic acid can be added to the water, which will have a positive effect on the recovery process. Further, watering is carried out according to the rules.

If the orchid leaves began to wrinkle due to excess moisture, then the flower should be removed from the substrate and the roots should be dried. In case of decay, the roots are sanitized. In this case, the soil will have to be changed.

If the leaves of the orchid have lost their turgor and wrinkle due to overheating, then in no case should the aerial part of the flower be sprayed from a spray bottle. This leads to serious damage to the tissue of the flower. It is best to place the orchid in a cool place where it will cool down quickly and recover after a while.

Elastic leaves will return if the root system is properly sanitized. This is done with a sharp and disinfected instrument (knife, scissors or pruning shears). The sections are rubbed with charcoal. Watering is carried out after 4-5 days to avoid re-decay.

When the question arises of what to do with the leaves, if they wither and whether they can be cut off, the answer must be unambiguous.

In this article, we talked about what to do if orchid leaves have lost their turgor and wilted.

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What do sluggish orchid leaves look like?

The process of wilting of leaves for orchids is a natural phenomenon. If you notice that 1-2 lower leaves of a tropical flower have wilted, do not worry. You do not need to cut them off - when withering, the leaves give the plant their nutritional components, so you should wait until they disappear on their own.

If an orchid has soft, sluggish leaves without exception, this is an indicator of a plant disease. Elastic and dense leaves fall, lose their bright green color and acquire a yellowish tint, wrinkles appear on them. Such a flower needs urgent help.

Phalaenopsis orchid soft leaves

Possible causes of wilting leaves

It is very difficult to observe how a plant that was cherished and cherished loses its attractive appearance, begins to hurt and eventually dies

It is important to understand the reasons that could lead to the fact that the leaves of the orchid have lost their turgor.

What to do if the leaves begin to wither

Withering leaves of a phalaenopsis orchid flower

  • The overheated plant is moved into the shade for 3-4 hours, do not watered or sprayed. Then they are moved to a lighted place, away from heating radiators and where the sun's rays do not fall.
  • It is easy to determine whether the soil is too dry - just gently stir the phalaenopsis. If the orchid does not move well, water procedures are indicated for it. The pot is placed in warm water for 30-60 minutes, sprayed, avoiding liquid getting on the peduncle. Then the leaves are carefully wiped with a dry soft cloth.
  • If root damage has become the cause of bogging, it is possible to restore the turgor of the leaves only after the treatment of the root system. The orchid is removed from the pot, carefully examined, washed with water, the damaged processes are removed. Then the remaining healthy roots are dried, and their sections are treated with dry cinnamon. The flower is transplanted into a new substrate.
  • If the leaves have become lethargic due to lack of watering, you should simply water the plant with water.
  • Oversaturation with fertilizers can be easily eliminated by washing the roots of the exotic, removing the damaged roots and planting the orchid in fresh soil. Then the pot is placed in the shade for several days and the plant is allowed to recover.

Healthier orchid

Quick options for resuscitation of a flower

There are several methods that will quickly bring a dying flower back to life and stop the withering process:

  • when overdrying, soak the phalaenopsis roots for 40-60 minutes in a 0.1% solution of succinic acid - this will allow the exotic to quickly absorb life-giving moisture and restore elasticity;
  • in case of overheating, urgently transfer the plant to a cool place;
  • immediately remove damaged, rotten or dried roots, and treat the sections with activated carbon;
  • an orchid without roots is reanimated in a special solution with the addition of a root former, and the leaves are additionally rubbed with glucose.

If resuscitation measures were taken on time, in a couple of days the phalaenopsis will come to life and will be beautiful again. Knowing why the orchid has sluggish leaves, you can quickly deal with the problem and return the attractiveness and healthy appearance of the indoor plant.

Have you ever experienced the turgor of orchid leaves becoming soft and sluggish? Did you manage to save the flower and what did you do for this? Leave reviews and comments!

Why did the turgor disappear?

The orchid leaf rosette reacts very quickly to changes in conditions of detention, it can become lethargic after moving from a store to an apartment, after transplanting and replacing the substrate, transferring from one window sill to another. As soon as the plant copes with the stress, the turgor of the leaves will recover, it will take only a few hours.

But it so happens that the leaves lose their turgor for reasons that cannot be ignored.

Overheating of the root system

Most orchids feel comfortable at an air temperature of + 20 ... + 27 ° C. Direct sunlight or heating appliances can raise the temperature too much or heat the plant itself. This leads to a rapid loss of moisture in the leaves, which causes them to wrinkle.

Not only the aboveground part is heated, but also the pot, the substrate actively evaporates water, trying to restore balance. The reverse process takes place with the roots - they cool down, stop absorbing moisture, and nourish the leaves. If you do not take measures to equalize the temperature of the roots and leaves, then the loss of moisture can become irreversible, leading to the death of the plant.

Wrong humidity

Orchids are watered after the substrate has completely dried, when the color of the roots turns from grayish-greenish to white. The transparent pot with a large number of holes allows you to monitor the condition of the substrate and roots. As long as there are drops of condensation on the walls of the dishes, the substrate has not completely dried out, which means that watering will be premature. If you water the plant too often, the roots will be in high humidity conditions all the time, which will lead to their rotting. Too long intervals between waterings will lead to drying out of the roots, lack of plant nutrition. The result, as with rotting roots, will be a sharp wilting of the leaves.

The soil is too compacted

Orchids are usually planted in pots filled with a special substrate. It consists of pieces of coniferous bark, sphagnum moss, vermiculite, coarse sand, small pebbles, pieces of charcoal. All components do not adhere tightly to each other and to the roots, allowing air to circulate freely. If the substrate is not changed in a timely manner, the bark is crushed, small particles fill empty spaces, the entire mass becomes less breathable, retains moisture more strongly, and does not dry out completely. Too dense substrate not only does not allow the roots to breathe, it also becomes a breeding ground for infection, putrefactive bacteria, from which the roots inevitably suffer.

Feeding errors

Roots can burn if too high a concentration of fertilizer is used. Potassium or phosphorus in large quantities will be harmful, and instead of a mild diet, they will cause a chemical burn, which will greatly weaken the plant.

If you water an orchid with impure water without cleaning it before using it, the effect may be similar.Salts of various metals that get along with water settle on the roots, blocking the ability to absorb moisture and breathe. The result is also root damage and leaf wilting.

Disease affection

It so happens that the leaves not only wither, but also become covered with spots - black, brown or transparent, which then dry out. Viral, bacterial, or fungal infections can be the cause. Infrequently, but orchids also suffer from black spot, bacterial soft rot, black rot. Infection can come from other indoor plants, and poor conditions - low temperatures with high humidity - help it to establish itself. If the plant suffers from an attack of pests (aphids, ticks, mealybugs, scale insects, flat beetles), then wilting leaves also testify to this.

It is interesting: Ludisia Orchid - home care and reproduction

Fungal diseases

If the rules for caring for orchids are violated, they are exposed to fungal diseases, manifested in the form of decaying leaves and a core (the point of growth of a flower).

If urgent treatment is not carried out, the plant may die.

How to determine what caused an orchid disease?

Let's figure it out.

Why does an orchid have soft leaves? What to do?

Orchid leaves become soft and covered with a bloom of pink - this is a sign of Fusarium, a severe fungal disease. Most often it develops in unventilated rooms with high humidity.

The treatment of this disease is to immerse the flower pot in a solution of Fundazole (0.2%). This should be done for 10 days (morning, afternoon and evening) while airing the room, avoiding drafts.

Leaves are rotting

A fungal disease that causes rotting of the leaf apparatus, most often develops with improper watering of plants. It manifests itself in different ways in different types of orchids. In a number of Phalaenopsis orchid varieties, the roots are first affected, and then the stems and leaves rot.

The disease develops rapidly and on the third day the plant comes to a deplorable state.

In Odontoglossum and Cattleya, infection begins from the bottom of the bulb, gradually moving to the stem and leaves.

Orchid leaves can rot most often in late autumn and winter.

At this time of the year, daylight hours are shortened, the ambient temperature is lowered, the drying of the substrate slows down, which causes the rapid development of the Pythium fungus.

On summer days, if hot weather sets in and it rains often, the Phytophthora fungus develops. Dark spots appear on the leaves, quickly turning into wet rot.

How to treat?

It is quite difficult to treat orchids for fungal diseases. It is much easier to prevent leaf diseases in orchids. Prevention of fungal diseases is as follows:

  1. Regular inspection of the stem, orchid leaves and substrate. This will identify the onset of the development of the disease and take timely measures to eliminate it.
  2. Correct feeding. It is better to use special fertilizers for this with a nitrogen content of no more than 15%.
  3. Optimal watering. The water should be at room temperature. Watering the plant can only be done when the earthen coma dries up. Do not spray the plant in high humidity.
  4. Regular ventilation. Fresh air is the most effective way to fight fungi.
  5. Reinforced lighting. The flower must be constantly exposed to light. On short winter days, additional lighting is provided by special lamps. Remember, partial shade is an ideal environment for fungal spores to grow.

Check out the interesting varieties of orchids:

  • phalaenopsis;
  • dwarf orchid;
  • dendrobium nobile;
  • dracula;
  • cambria;
  • cattleya;
  • oncidium;
  • wanda;
  • miltonia;
  • papiopedilum;
  • ludisia;
  • cymbidium.

The growing point has turned black and the leaves wilted

Of particular concern to flower growers is damage to the growth point in monopodial orchids, since it is in one copy of them.

Blackening is usually caused by physical damage, burning in the bright sun, bacterial or fungal infections, the ingress and presence of water in the core for a long time.

The result depends on the degree of damage and the chances of salvation are 50/50.

After damage to the growth point, the leaves, naturally, will begin to wilt, from the blockage of food access. The "rosette" will not grow, and the orchid may begin to multiply, that is, to form children from the meristems on the peduncle, or the meristems on the stem.

Sooner or later, they will grow, especially if they are helped with this by applying hormonal cytokinin paste.

This option of salvation, with the subsequent separation of the baby, has a chance to exist if a dormant kidney or kidneys exist. Otherwise, the leaves may remain sluggish for some time, but gradually they will begin to turn yellow and finally dry out completely.

If at least a small part of living tissue remains at the point of growth, then the orchid can be reanimated. True, its full recovery will take too long.

What to Remember About Orchid Frostbite? Influence of low temperatures

At low temperatures, the orchid is quite capable of getting frostbite of the leaf mass. If the roots are not affected, then the grower has the opportunity to revive the flower. If the plant is completely affected, then it can no longer be saved.

Causes of frostbite:

  1. First of all, this is buying a flower in the cold season without packaging or with insufficient packaging without a car, where you can quickly get after leaving the store;
  2. Cold air in the room where the flower is cultivated. After all, a temperature of +16 degrees is considered quite cold, and watering in such a temperature regime will lead the flower to death;
  3. Winter drafts. Orchids located in their path freeze very quickly, especially after watering.

As already mentioned, with complete frostbite, the flower cannot be saved, but if it is a small area on a leaf plate, it is cut off with scissors and the cuts are treated with an antiseptic. If part of the trunk got under frostbite, then:

  • All foliage is cut;
  • And the place of the cut is sprinkled with charcoal.

In this case, you will have to wait for the baby to appear at the edge of the barrel. Sometimes the wait is delayed up to six months, it all depends on the vitality of this bush.

What to do?

You can restore health to a plant in different ways. It all depends on the cause of what happened. If the flower overheats, it is placed in a shaded place for several days; it is not worth watering or spraying it, as this can provoke tissue death.

The water balance of this culture is restored in 3-4 days. After that, the plant is placed in an illuminated area, but not near heat sources. Do not forget about the need for diffused light.

If the reason for the lethargy of the leaves is a lack of moisture, and the soil is too dry, then the flower needs shower procedures. To do this, place the pot with the crop in warm water for an hour, and then spray a little.

If root problems have caused the leaves to be weak, carefully remove the plant from the pot and assess the condition of the roots. Damaged roots look rotting, brown, covered with mucus, if you press on such a root, moisture will be released from it

Healthy roots have a light greenish color, there is no plaque and yellowness on them, they are dense and elastic.

To remedy the situation, eliminate the injured parts, and rinse the rest with warm water. Treat healthy parts with dried cinnamon or crushed activated charcoal and transplant the orchid into fresh soil.

If overflowing became the cause of leaf wilting, then it is enough just to dry the roots and transplant the culture into a looser substrate. Don't be afraid to remove damaged roots.Orchid is a pretty viable flower, even with only 5 cm of healthy root, the plant can be restored.

Any insect pests are destroyed by using insecticides. In addition, for example, the shields can be removed mechanically.

Causes of soft leaves in orchids

Usually the lower leaves become soft. If the ground part lacks nutrition, and the roots do not have time to fill the need, redistribution occurs due to the lower leaves. Their supply of food is transferred to the top. Read about orchid diseases!

Overheat

Overheating of the plant is dangerous for the flower. On a hot afternoon in direct sunlight, even a shaded window gets very hot. At this time, the leaf intensively evaporates moisture. But the substrate also heats up, evaporation is created in the glass. In this case, the roots not only receive little moisture, but also cool, the heat of the substrate is spent on evaporation.

If overheating occurs, you must:

  • remove the plant deep into the room for 2-3 hours, so that the temperature of the leaves and roots gradually level;
  • after that you can spray the plant, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or water;
  • find a place for the orchid that excludes secondary overheating.

An anti-stress drug, a drop of Epin or succinic acid can be added to the irrigation water. Turgor can recover quickly or within 3-4 days, depending on the degree of dehydration.

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Frostbite and pests

Why does an orchid have sluggish leaves in winter and what to do about it? Staying in a draft at sub-zero temperatures will lead to freezing of the leaves. They will lie down, turning into a rag. If the plant stands by the window in a harsh winter, frostbite will occur at temperatures below 15 degrees. Frostbite is not cured. The tissues are cut so that they do not develop rot. But there is no need to transplant a wounded flower.

On the leaves, a colony of ticks divorced, they suck out the juice, the plant is inhibited and the green leaf still disappears. Red and colorless mites are especially dangerous for orchids. These insects are afraid of moisture, they breed only in dry air.

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Lack of moisture

What to do if the orchid leaves shriveled due to lack of watering? There is no clear time interval when the orchid substrate needs moisture. It depends on the dryness of the air and the temperature in the apartment. In the midday sun and in rainy weather, the selection of moisture by the roots changes. You need to water the dried out substrate. Therefore, every time before watering, you should make sure that the soil is dry. After drying, simply water the plant with the addition of succinic acid to the water. Watering is done by immersion for an hour in water 30-40C.

Why are orchids sluggish leaves after transplant, what to do? It is important to choose the right soil composition. Improperly treated bark does not absorb water

Then, no matter how often it is watered, the water will be filtered without lingering in the pores. The contents of the pots will have to be changed.

Root problems

The state of the root system can be judged by the color. If the roots are green or light with a silvery sheen, they are healthy. Brown patches that appear indicate rot. What if the orchid withers, but sits firmly in the pot? Perhaps this is a signal that the plant does not receive enough oxygen, being in a dense substrate. If the plant is not transplanted for a long time, algae and microorganisms develop on the surface of the bark and crumbs, the bark is worn out, and the pores between the particles become smaller. Then the roots do not have enough nutrition, and the leaves wither. The same happens if you use excessive doses of fertilizers. In either case, it will be necessary to replace the substrate while the root system is intact.

Often, a violation of the nutrition of the leaves lies in the disease of the root system. If the leaves of an orchid wither, you should do the following:

  1. Make sure the plant is not overheated or overdried.
  2. Shaking the outlet, if it sits tightly in the pot, means that the root system is preserved. But the audit needs to be done. The rotten roots are covered in mucus, or have dried up. Remove diseased parts, treat open sections with antiseptic preparations that do not contain alcohol. When rooting, use special preparations - Maxim, Alirin.
  3. If the plant has even one living root left, it is planted in an appropriate small pot and cared for in the usual way.
  4. There are no roots left, the outlet is arranged over a container of water, so that the neck is 2-3 cm above the water. Wipe the leaves daily with water and succinic acid. The roots will grow back.

In the future, until the plant regains its lost shape, until the wounds heal, fertilizing and stimulating watering cannot be done.

Withering of the upper leaves

The top leaf is mainly young leaves. If the lower leaves are lethargic and can periodically die off naturally, then the lethargy of the upper ones is associated with mistakes in plant care. There may be several reasons, and we wrote about them above.

Loss of turgor in the upper leaves is mainly associated with overheating of the roots. The action of hot air, heating devices or sunlight heats the upper part and actively evaporates moisture through the pores of the sheet plates.

The same situation occurs inside the pot. The increased temperature heats up the substrate. The moisture contained in it evaporates and the roots are noticeably cooled, which leads to a sharp slowdown in their absorption process.

Moisture leaves the leaves, and the roots are unable to absorb it. In a matter of hours, the upper leaves lose their turgor, become flabby and wither.

Another common cause of lethargy of the upper leaves is damage to the root system by fungal diseases or pests.

The knowledge gained from experienced orchid growers on the correct care of tropical orchids will help to avoid mistakes.

Due to fungal infections

According to experienced orchid growers, fungal infection is considered the main danger for orchids. And the main reason for the appearance of such an infection is an excess of moisture.

It is important not to start the orchid, to apply the necessary treatment measures in time. Otherwise, you can lose an exotic beauty

Phalaenopsis fungal infection.

The first symptoms of diseases

The lethargy of the leaves can not only be associated with mistakes in care: the choice of lighting, temperature conditions or mistakes with watering, but also fungal infections. It is the leaves that first signal the onset of the disease, a change in appearance.

The main fungal infections affect the root part due to prolonged moisture in the substrate, which is caused by irrigation disorders, poor air circulation inside the soil or poor-quality components.

Damage to the root system, provoking the development of a fungal infection, can be caused by an overdose of fertilizers or their increased concentration. A similar situation arises with the presence of a large number of pests in the substrate.

Inefficient operation of the root system immediately affects the appearance of the leaf apparatus and the loss of turgor.

How does infection occur and precautions

Fungus infection occurs for several reasons:

  • massive root damage with waterlogging. The roots begin to rot due to the constant presence in a humid environment;
  • insufficient watering, caused mainly by an incorrectly compiled humidification schedule;

Important! The irrigation schedule is not guided by the recommendations of the sources, but is drawn up by the florist individually, depending on the room temperature and air humidity.

  • old caked substrate. The lack of air circulation caused by soil compaction makes it impossible for the root part to breathe;
  • Overdosing on fertilizers can cause burns or dry roots that can absorb food.The leaf apparatus begins to fade immediately;
  • overheating of both the root and the upper part of the plant;
  • pests that feed on roots or leaf juice.

Fungal diseases can be triggered by pests.

Preventive measures in order to avoid fungal infections are the establishment of proper care for the plant and the creation of acceptable living conditions for it.

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the root system. Prevent widespread infection

Timely start treatment processes so as not to destroy the orchid.

Phalaenopsis orchid leaves wither: what to do?

Having determined why orchid leaves lose their turgor and become soft, you need to take immediate action. If the leaves of a rosette orchid, for example, papiopedilums, become lethargic, then the plant in an inverted position is completely immersed in a nutrient solution (0.5 liters of fertilizer is diluted in 1 liter of water) - this way the rosette remains with air inside and the growing point does not get wet. The plant is left in this position for several hours.

This procedure may not bring results the first time, so it is recommended to carry it out every other day until the desired effect is achieved. This reduces the soaking time to 30 minutes.

If you are interested in how to return turgor to phalaenopsis leaves, the answer will be the same. The flower can be in limbo for several months. Periodically, it must be sprayed with a weak solution of fertilizer, after which, once a week, wipe the leaves and give them the opportunity to breathe. Such care allows new shoots and roots to develop.

Withering leaves and roots in phalaenopsis.

The method of dipping and rubbing the leaves with sugar syrup is suitable for returning turgor only if there is no mechanical damage, parasites, or rot on the plant, including on the roots.

To prevent the shoots from withering, they carry out preventive measures - daily care, monitoring the condition of leaves and roots through a transparent pot. It is enough to provide watering, remove from direct sunlight and not place next to other flowers to avoid parasite infestation.

As the orchid grows, it must be transplanted into a larger pot: in cramped conditions, the roots protrude outward and cease to fully provide the plant with moisture. A large number of roots leads to oxidation of the substrate, its caking, loss of the ability to pass air.

The disease is identified by sluggish, wrinkled leaves. Insects, nematodes, mites, powdery mildew are found in the soil or on the surface of the leaves. The most common fungal diseases are rot, anthracnose, spotting. The shoots become covered with spots, begin to turn yellow, and eventually turn black.

Vascular mycosis and root rot also begin with wilting of the leaves, after which the shoot dies in a short time. In this case, the treatment process is laborious and often does not bring results.

Bacteriosis is treated with antibacterial solutions and transplantation. If you do not start to act immediately, the plant dries up in a few days.

Why did the orchid put the leaves down: reasons

Loss of turgor pressure in the leaves is the main sign of a lack of nutrition coming from the soil to the plant's root system. As a rule, it is the lower leaves that become soft, but if the ground part of the flower does not have enough nutrition, then redistribution occurs, and the upper leaves become sluggish.

There are several reasons for the change in foliage density:

  • overheating or hypothermia;
  • pests, diseases;
  • lack of moisture;
  • problems with the root system;
  • dense substrate.

Each of them is worth considering in more detail.

Overheating or hypothermia

Orchids do not like too high temperatures and exposure to direct sunlight. Overheating negatively affects the plant, resulting in:

  • the soil heats up;
  • there is a rapid evaporation of moisture;
  • the root system dries up.

In this case, the plant experiences a moisture deficit and compensates for it from the foliage.

At the first signs of overheating, the flower must be transferred to a shaded, but at the same time, bright place. An overheated flower is not recommended to water or irrigate, as this can provoke tissue death. Watering can be done when the flowerpot has cooled to room temperature.

Hypothermia also adversely affects the life of the flower. This most often occurs in the winter, when the flower grows on the windowsill. The temperature below +15 ° C is critical for the plant, then it dies.

Peculiarity! The optimal temperature regime for an orchid in summer is + 15-30 ℃, in winter + 18-22 ℃.

Pests and diseases

One of the factors contributing to wilting is the appearance of pest colonies. Among all types of parasites, orchids are most commonly affected by the following:

  • spider mite;
  • aphid;
  • red tick.

They actively suck out juice from leaf cells, which leads to a change in their turgor, lethargy and discoloration.

Important! If mites are found on the orchid, you need to immediately isolate it from other plants. Next, carry out a number of disinfecting measures: wipe the leaves with soapy water and treat with an insecticidal agent such as Fitofers, Actellik, etc. Re-treatment is carried out in a week, since the agent is aimed at destroying only adults, but not their eggs

Rinsing the plant under a shower is a good preventative measure. Such an event is recommended to be held at least once every two months.

Re-processing is carried out after a week, since the agent is aimed at destroying only adults, but not their eggs. Rinsing the plant under a shower is a good preventative measure. Such an event is recommended to be held at least once every two months.

The flower is lethargic due to lack of moisture

The orchid is a thermophilic tropical plant, so insufficient watering can negatively affect its appearance. In order for the flower to please with the color of the foliage and abundant flowering, its soil must be moderately moist. If watering is insufficient, then the amount of moisture in the leaves is significantly reduced, and they acquire a sluggish, unaesthetic appearance.

When watering, it is recommended to be guided by the irrigation regime and at the same time take into account the state of the soil. In addition, the main factors affecting the frequency of watering are:

  • air temperature;
  • the size of the flower pot;
  • condition of the substrate.

Interesting! When watering, you need to adhere to the rule - when the upper layers of the soil have dried up, the flower needs watering.

Due to root problems

When the root system of the orchid is healthy, the roots are gray with a green tint and a dense structure. If the roots are infected with bacteria or rotten, they acquire a dark color and a slimy structure.

You can save such a flower if you take restorative measures:

  • cut off the affected areas of the root system;
  • cut the sections with charcoal;
  • transplant the orchid into new soil.

After such events, the flower can bloom even in the next season.

Peculiarity! Shriveled leaves can be wiped with a solution of 0.1% succinic acid. This will help restore turgor.

Dense substrate

Often too dense soil becomes the cause of lethargy. The flower loves a fairly humid environment, but the following conditions must also be met:

  • there must be air circulation between the roots;
  • the soil must be loose;
  • provide moderate watering.

Too moist soil leads to rotting of the root system. These points should be taken into account when watering.

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