Streptocarpus

Leaf propagation

This is the simplest method of reproduction of streptocarpus, therefore it is very popular with novice florists. Indeed, with such a cultivation, you do not need to create a greenhouse and poke around in the ground, besides, the event can be held all year round. Therefore, if you have just started acquaintance with streptocarpus, and want to increase the collection, then choose this method. How to propagate a plant:

1. Fill a plastic cup with room temperature rainwater. If you want to speed up the rooting process, then dilute a few drops of any growth stimulant, such as Zircon or Kornevin, in a liquid.
2. Use sharp and disinfected scissors to cut the leaf from the top of the mother bush. Powder the cut with crushed charcoal.
3. Place the stalk in the water so that it is 1-1.5 cm submerged in the liquid.
4. Keep the cup in a warm, bright place out of direct sunlight. Top up with water if necessary.

As a rule, the stalk gives roots after a week, and after about 15 days, the leaf begins to grow new rosettes. When the plant is strong enough, carefully transplant it into a small flowerpot filled with a loose and nutritious substrate. More details about the soil suitable for streptocarpus are written in the paragraph "Preparing the soil". That's all the simple rules for growing streptocarpus from a leaf and caring for it.

Types of indoor streptocarpus

Streptocarpus rex (royal) (Streptocarpus rexii) - a native of the subtropical forests of South Africa. Therefore, its preferences for habitat are close to forest ones - diffused light, warmth and high humidity.

The plant is a lush rosette of pubescent leaves up to 12 cm long. The leaf plate is dark green, wavy with jagged edges. Streptocarpus buds are formed in the leaf axils on long, about 20 cm, peduncles. The more luxuriant the rosette, the more peduncles, and hence the more flowers on the plant.

The bell-shaped flowers end in five petals and can be white, pink, lilac, blue and red. The petals of some varieties are decorated with contrasting patterns. Streptocarpus Rex blooms profusely and for a long time - from June to September.

Rocky streptocarpus (Streptocarpus saxorum) outwardly very different from other species. Long shoots of this plant are covered with small oblong leaves of grayish-green color, with pubescence. Peduncles are formed in the axils, bearing small flowers in the form of bells. The petals are light lilac, the center of the funnel is white.

In indoor floriculture, the rocky streptocarpus is used as an ampelous plant. Long-term flowering usually begins in March and ends in October. If in November the rocky dormant period is provided for streptocarpus with a decrease in air temperature and reduced watering, then it is possible to get winter flowering. However, this will require additional lighting of the plant in the morning and evening in order to increase the length of daylight hours.

Wendland's streptocarpus (Streptocarpus wendlandii) is a native of South Africa and is often grown indoors. The original plant has a single leaf of a very impressive size, up to 90 cm long and 60 cm in diameter. At the base of the leaf, flower stalks are formed, on which numerous flowers bloom up to 5 cm in diameter. Funnel-shaped corollas are painted in blue, lilac or purple tones with dark veins.

Wendland's streptocarpus blooms throughout the spring and summer. For abundant flowering, this species needs good lighting with a short exposure to direct sunlight. This species does not need high air humidity, it is desirable that it be at least 35%. The disadvantage of Wendland's streptocarpus is its short life - it is an annual plant and after flowering its life cycle ends.

Hybrid streptocarpus (S. Hibridus) is a large group that unites the most ornamental plant varieties.Among the hybrids, you can find flowers for every taste - double, semi-double and regular flower shapes can have the most fantastic colors. Monochromatic - with or without a pattern, bicolor, when the upper and lower sides of the petals are painted in different colors, as well as the edges are dark, and the middle of the flower is light. As a rule, all flowers of hybrids have a pattern in the form of a thin mesh of a contrasting color.

Hybrid streptocarpus (S. Hibridus). Nzfauna Streptocarpus rexii. LePlants Rocky Streptocarpus (Streptocarpus saxorum). hisusan2005

Transfer

The best time for transplanting streptocarpus is considered early spring, then it begins to grow actively. In winter, it is extremely rare, but you can also transplant a flower, but in these conditions it will be more difficult for it to take root.

Transplant process, pot selection

Transfer after purchase

After purchase, the plant should be carefully inspected. If the substrate is completely braided with roots, then the plant is urgently transplanted.

In order for the flower to develop effectively and well, a prerequisite is the choice of a spacious pot.

After transplanting into the prepared soil, the flower does not need to be fertilized with anything for 2 months. During this period, periodically loosen the soil, watering is carried out after the top layer has dried.

Reproduction transplant

When the seeds have sprouted, or cuttings, leaves have taken root, you should wait for a period of active growth. It usually occurs in the spring. Then the young animals are transplanted.

Young streptocarpus can be transplanted annually for 2-3 years. An adult plant - no more than once every 2-3 years. The reason for the transplant will be the developed root system of the plant.

Possible growing problems

Streptocarpus is an interesting tropical plant that can be grown at home. However, problems cannot be avoided, since a delicate flower needs painstaking care. But it is quite possible to help him.

Why does streptocarpus have a rusty coating on the leaves

On flowers, shoots and leaves of streptocarpus, you can see small yellow spots that look like rust. They gradually grow and cover the entire plant.

Rusty spots are also visible on young leaves, they grow back already affected

The reasons for their appearance lie in abundant watering, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. This is possible with a crowded landing or untimely transfer.

At the first signs of rust on the streptocarpus, all the affected parts are cut off, the plant is transferred into a new pot, and then treated with fungicides, such as "Fitosporin-M". Spraying for the disease is repeated twice with an interval of 1-2 weeks.

The working solution is not stored, a new portion is diluted for each spraying

Why do streptocarpus leaves dry and what to do

There are times when the leaves of streptocarpus dry rapidly, but there are no signs of disease or pests on the plant. In this case, the reason for this may be too dry air in the room, which is not ventilated for a long time. This is most often the case in winter.

Young outlets primarily suffer from dry air, they are more susceptible to environmental influences

To avoid all sorts of problems with streptocarpus, during the heating season, the air around it must be sprayed, and the room must be regularly ventilated. However, before that, the flower is removed from the windowsill so that a cold stream does not fall on it.

Why do streptocarpus leaf tips dry

In summer, the leaves of streptocarpus do not dry out entirely, but in spots, starting from the tip. This is not due to illness, but due to improper spraying of the flower.

It is important to humidify the air around the plant, but so that drops of moisture do not fall on the leaf plate. Spots will begin to form on it.

When the tips of streptocarpus leaves dry, you can use an electronic humidifier

To prevent this from happening, you can put the pot on a pallet with wet pebbles. Water is regularly added to it, maintaining the desired microclimate for streptocarpus.

Why does streptocarpus not bloom

It so happens that streptocarpus refuses to bloom. This happens not only with young plants, but also with adult rosettes, which previously gave flower stalks. There are many reasons for this:

1. At a young age, some species do not have enough leaf mass, as soon as it appears in the right amount, there will certainly be flowers.
2. The lack of buds can be attributed to the wrong time of year. There are varieties that bloom only in spring.
3. Adult plants do not emit peduncles if they are in the shade. A well-lit place is needed to form buds, but not direct sunlight.
4. Lack of nutrients in the soil also leads to the fact that streptocarpus does not bloom.
5. An adult plant grows strongly, the rosette becomes dense, the buds are not formed.

If you reconsider the care of the plant, then the flowering of streptocarpus will not keep you waiting.

Why does streptocarpus not grow

Very often, beginners complain that streptocarpus sits in place and does not grow. Diseases and pests are not the only cause. Young greenhouse plants are difficult to adapt to new living conditions, they need to create a suitable microclimate and gradually accustom to the environment

It is important to understand when it is time to water the flower, because if you dry it too much, then even a few extra drops will lead to death.

However, it is worth knowing that streptocarpus does not grow, but withers when it is overexposed in a greenhouse. In conditions of high humidity, the growth of the root system occurs superficially and it is very weak, unable to withstand climate change. But the leaves grow back well. It happens that a completely healthy-looking rosette, ready to bloom, suddenly dies.

It is for these reasons that streptocarpus babies are kept in a greenhouse only in the first weeks of rooting. Further, the shelter is removed, no matter how deplorable the flowers look. It may seem that the young are not growing, but they are not. New leaves are indeed reluctant to appear, but the root system is developing as expected. The result is healthy and strong sockets that quickly catch up and start growing.

Step by step instructions: how to propagate at home?

Soil and fertilizers

The soil for growing streptocarpus babies should be chosen loose, breathable, not too nutritious and retains moisture well. A universal flower primer or Saintpaulia primer is suitable.

Prepare the substrate as follows:

• mix 2 parts of soil for violets;
• 2 parts perlite and vermiculite in equal proportions.

You can prepare a special mixture for rooting leaves, just mix peat and sand in equal parts.

Important! If the roots of the cuttings form very slowly, the soil may contain a lot of nitrogen. Experienced gardeners recommend disinfecting the substrate before planting, just boil it for 3-5 minutes

It is necessary to feed streptocarpus 2 times a month. Fertilizers for flowering plants are suitable for this.

Watering

The planted parts of the leaf should be watered sparingly to keep the soil moist but not wet. Water as needed, about once a week. For optimal distribution of moisture in the pot, water the edges of the container.

Humidity

Streptocarpus is extremely sensitive to indoor humidity. Before root formation, cuttings lack organs to absorb water. Moisture is absorbed by the entire sheet, so there should be enough moisture. Usually, the moisture that forms on the bag is enough for rooting.

Features of growing from seeds

Streptocarpus seeds are very small, more like dust particles.Therefore, planting seeds is a very painstaking task and should be taken very seriously and with great care.

1. First you need to prepare shallow containers. Lay drainage at the bottom of each. Pour peat mixed with sand on top of the drain.
2. For easier planting of seeds, they can be mixed with fine grained sand.
3. You do not need to bury the seeds in the ground, otherwise they will dry out, just cover with glass or film.

Important! Before planting, the substrate should be moistened, the seeds should be sown on wet soil.

We suggest you watch a video about planting streptocarpus seeds:

Standing

1. The sheet is cut across. A knife, blade, or other sharp object will do this.
2. Before carrying out the procedure, the instrument must be disinfected.
3. Each piece of the sheet should be 5–7 cm.

Planting this method produces fewer babies, but they appear much faster (7-10 days). Another advantage of "standing" planting is the small likelihood of leaf decay, since the cut line is smaller. If the rooting conditions are not met, this method is more reliable.

We suggest you watch a video about the reproduction of streptocarpus with a leaf while standing:

Toaster

1. The sheet must be placed with the bottom surface up.
2. It is imperative to remove the central core from the sheet plate.
3. For planting, you need half a leaf.

The advantage of this method is to get a large number of babies. Before planting, the leaf should be rinsed with warm running water.

If a leaf was bought somewhere at exhibitions from collectors and while it was being carried home, it wilted, then it is advisable to put it in warm water and wrap it in a damp cloth, then place it in a plastic bag. Shallow containers are suitable for planting. Before planting, it is advisable to dry the lower sections for 5-10 minutes. A fragment of a leaf is buried 6–10 cm into the soil.

We suggest you watch a video about the reproduction of streptocarpus with a toaster leaf:

Care

Streptocarpus does not like either heat or cold, and therefore the optimal temperature for its active growth and development is a mode of + 20-25 degrees. During flowering, it is desirable that the temperature is a couple of degrees lower. If it gets hot in the house, the flowers will start to fade. To fix the problem, you can take the flower out into fresh air.

At the same time, it is worth taking into account the nuance: large-flowered varieties like more heat (at least +20). Those with small flowers need coolness, and therefore a temperature of +15 is the optimal condition. You need a lot of light, but scattered, while the duration of daylight hours should be at least 14 hours.

Watering the streptocarpus grown from seeds at home must be correct. The flower does not like an excess of water in the ground. Proper watering consists in moistening the soil so that water does not get on the leaves and root collar of the plant. At the same time, it is necessary to use settled or filtered water at room temperature for irrigation.

The air humidity should be high. If the room is dry, you need to put a container of water near the flower. You can spray the air near the plant or purchase a special humidifier. You cannot try to make up for the lack of moisture with excessive watering - this will destroy the plant.

One of the obligatory stages of plant development is picking. It is performed only when the sprouts have a pair of true leaves. Moreover, it is necessary to transplant, and not to reload the plant, planting it not only in a new pot, but also providing it with a fresh and nutritious substrate. At this stage, the capacity is selected more than the previous one, which is necessary for the formation of a superficial root system.

The plant is removed from the ground and carefully disposed of the old soil. A visual inspection of the roots is immediately carried out: if there are rot lesions anywhere, they get rid of it. Long roots are cut. If you need to divide the bush, then immediately after dividing the places of the cuts are treated with crushed charcoal.

When transplanting into a new pot, make sure that the growth point and young leaves are not buried in the ground. The plant cannot be strongly pressed into the soil, so as not to harm the roots and shoots. As for the size of the pot, a container with a diameter of 6-8 cm is quite enough for a young plant. Reproduction is performed by dividing the bush and cuttings.

How to properly plant streptocarpus

Streptocarpus is a rather demanding plant to care for. Not all growers manage to achieve long and abundant flowering from it. Therefore, when planting and further growing these plants at home, many factors must be taken into account.

Read more How to propagate streptocarpus from a leaf: how to root, how to plant, how to grow, video

What pots do you need to plant streptocarpus

When choosing a pot for planting streptocarpus, it is necessary to take into account the age of the plant. The approximate diameter of the container is given in a small table:

It is impossible to plant young plants immediately in a large container. This should be done gradually, several times a year, each time increasing the size of the pot by 1-2 cm.

Growing streptocarpus requires different sized pots.

A pot for growing streptocarpus at home should not be narrow and high - this will lead to uneven moisture in the root system. Too wide planting containers are also undesirable, since the soil in them is very easy to waterlogged, and this will inevitably lead to decay of the plant root and its death. There are no special requirements for the material of the pot, however, experienced flower growers at home prefer to use plastic containers. In them, plant roots are less injured during transplantation compared to clay or ceramic ones. It is advisable to use light-colored pots. Streptocarpuses love light, and in such conditions, dark planting containers can become very hot, which will negatively affect the state of the root system.

Soil composition for streptocarpus

Streptocarpus are relatives of violets, therefore, the same type of soil is used for growing them at home. It can be purchased ready-made at flower shops. A universal primer for indoor flowers is also suitable, however, to increase the porosity, it will be necessary to add a small amount of peat to it. The soil mixture can be prepared independently from sod and leafy soil, peat, as well as river sand, mixed with each other in equal proportions. If the soil is dense enough, it is necessary to add vermiculite or perlite to it.

Soil for violets works well for streptocarpus

It is advisable to add activated or crushed charcoal to the composition of the soil mixture - this will help remove excess moisture.

How to plant streptocarpus

Planting streptocarpus at home is usually not difficult. A young plant (grown at home from seeds or parts of a leaf of a baby about 2 cm in size) is placed in a container with a soil substrate and its root system is sprinkled. Within a few days after this, it is necessary to carefully moisten the soil surface, and after rooting, you can start watering the flower through the pan.

How to transplant streptocarpus

At home, streptocarpus tolerate transplantation well and respond positively to it. Plants are usually transplanted several times as it matures. At the same time, the size of the pot is also increased each time, by about 1.5-2 cm. Usually, the transplantation procedure is carried out in the spring, and with accelerated growth, also in the fall. Adult streptocarpus are transferred to other containers once every 2 years. The procedure for transplanting these plants is called transshipment, since the flower is transplanted together with a lump of earth on the roots. The resulting voids are filled with soil substrate.

An adult streptocarpus should be transplanted in a year.

The first day after transshipment, streptocarpus is not watered. The plant is under stress at this time, and the presence of water in the roots can only harm it. In the future, humidification is performed in a very metered manner, the amount of water should be less than before the transplant. Only after making sure that the streptocarpus has acclimatized in a new place (this usually takes about 1 month), watering is resumed in the usual volume.

Is it possible to transplant flowering streptocarpus

The appearance of peduncles is not the reason why the transplant can be canceled or postponed. Streptocarpus, even flowering, is transplanted at home with almost no consequences. For example, you can face the need to transplant a plant with flowers if you buy it in this state in a store. In this case, it is imperative to give the plant 2 weeks to acclimatize, and then transplant, despite the presence of peduncles.

More Streptocarpus: care and cultivation from seeds, breeding rules