Landing
It is recommended to plant a wrinkled rose in spring. For culture, they choose an even, sunny place on the south side. The soil should be selected loamy, saturated with humus. On depleted lands, you should definitely add organic matter to the planting holes. Before planting, the root system of the plant is placed in a clay mash, the pit is filled with a bucket of humus.
The growth point of the bush should never be covered, otherwise it can lead to the death of the plant. The depth of the new hole must match the depth of the old hole. Freshly planted bushes are watered abundantly, sprinkled with dry soil on top and tamped. To facilitate the adaptation of plants to a new place, the roots are soaked for several hours in water before planting with the addition of growth stimulants - "Kornevin", "Epina".
Rugosa prefers bright areas with shelter from the wind. The most successful solution is to plant the plant on a southern slope or flat area, fenced off by a fence or other buildings. When planting a bush in a mixborder, the plants are placed under the shade of higher crops, trees. A wrinkled rose is practically unpretentious to temperature extremes. Rosehip develops best at 16-22 degrees Celsius. Able to endure frosts up to -40 degrees for a short time. Young plants should be protected from the effects of low temperatures that occur at night in the autumn-winter period by covering the bushes with insulating material or film.
The humidity level should be moderate. With an increased moisture content in the soil, the likelihood of developing infectious and fungal diseases of the root system increases, which will ultimately lead to the death of the plant. In the rainy period, it is recommended to cover the plant with a film to reduce the amount of water, and also after the end of prolonged rainfall, refuse watering and spraying for a week.
In the hot season, watering is carried out as the upper layers of the soil dries up by about 5 cm. Abundant spraying is required for the plant in the morning and evening hours. It is not recommended to spray in sunny weather, as the sun's rays on the water droplets on the leaves can burn the leaf plate.
Blooming rose
Rose Falstaff - variety description
The shrub has large buds that are abundantly located throughout the crown. Another plus is long flowering, which ends only with the arrival of frost.
A period of activity and rest
By the end of May, the shrub begins to set buds. From the beginning of June to the beginning of August, the flowering is most abundant, closer to October the buds begin to thin out, but do not lose their colors.
Care during and after flowering
During flowering, the care of the rose does not change much, only the composition of the dressings should have a different content. Nitrogen fertilizers are replaced by potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which favorably affect 6a bud setting.
What to do if it does not bloom and possible reasons
If Sympathy has stopped blooming, it is quite possible that this is how it reacts to improper care and the appearance of illness. One of the reasons is the lack of lighting, perhaps the wrong place was chosen for growing the bush. In this case, there is only one way out - a rose transplant.
Another reason may be a lack of watering, the frequency of which needs to be increased. Sympathy often does not bloom due to improper feeding or lack of it. For flowering, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are needed, and nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied for a while.
Diseases are fought with the help of special chemicals, fungicides.
Propagation of roses on a stem
It is possible to grow a standard rose on your own, but for this you should have considerable patience and professional skills in performing vaccinations.
Reproduction of a standard rose is a rather laborious task
Growing a standard stock takes up to 4 years, while it is allowed to grow a rosehip from seeds or by cuttings. Sometimes they choose powerful bushes in the rosehip shoots, they are transplanted for growing in specially designated ridges. The use of rose hips for this purpose gives only up to 40% of suitable seedlings. During the period of rootstock cultivation, a careful selection of seedlings for subsequent grafting should be carried out. In the fall, in the third year of growing the rose hips, all the shoots are cut out at the level of the root collar, except for one central one.
The grafted crops must be carefully cared for.
Vaccination is carried out at the same time as for ordinary roses, grafting 2 eyes at the top of the shoot. For the winter, the grafted trunks are sheltered from frost, bending to the ground. In the spring on the shoot, the buds start to grow. Throughout the summer period, the rose is formed, achieving tillering of the crown.
Growing rules and planting site
Despite the high resistance of the flower to winds, it is better to grow and plant it where there is enough sunlight. Good natural light stimulates flowering, so the first "fruits" may appear as early as the next year after planting.
Lots of space climbing rose Sympathy does not require. The landing itself is best planned for the fall. Even before the first frost, the first shoots will form on the rose, which should grow before the onset of winter. If you plant a plant in spring, then it will grow much longer, and care should be more thorough.
Before planting, first you need to soak the seedlings for a day. Shoots and roots must be cut into two buds. Then you need to prepare a hole 50x50 cm in size.And before planting it must, first of all, be filled with fertilizers and watered abundantly. Lime, manure, tree resin and superphosphate can act as fertilizers. As for the soil, loamy and humus-rich soil is more suitable for this variety. The root of the plant must be covered with a layer of earth at least 10 cm wide. The distance between several roses when planting must be at least 1 meter.
After planting, the part of the plant that remains above the ground must be cut off by about 20 cm. This manipulation is needed for good growth and abundant flowering. If you use the Sympathy rose to decorate an object, then plant the plant at a distance of about 50 cm from that very object.
The propagation of this variety of roses occurs with the help of cuttings (both summer and winter). Reproduction itself can begin in mid-June. Cuttings should be cut from healthy plants immediately after flowering. Each cutting should have at least four buds. From the bottom of the plant, you need to remove all the leaves. You can grow a rose in a box, pot or any other container. As a substrate, you can use sand with soil (1 cm layer). Then you need to cover the stalk with a jar and leave it in a shaded place. If necessary, use fertilizer and water sparingly.
The nuances of caring for roses
A feature of care is to save the crown from drying out at the moment while the seedling takes root. To do this, the place of the scion is covered with wet moss or cotton wool, and wrapped on top with protective material
It is important to keep the substrate constantly moist. The wrapper is removed when the buds appear and swell
Further, care consists in the timely implementation of watering, loosening, weeding and feeding the standard rose.
Watering
Watering should be regular, as the soil under the tree dries up. The rose is irrigated in the morning, before the sun is fully formed, or in the evening, after its sunset. Water, in large quantities, is poured under the root.So that moisture evaporates less from the near-trunk area, the earth is sprinkled with mulch (peat, humus, needles). Each time, the crown is irrigated from a spray can to provide it with water procedures and wash off the dust.
Weeding and loosening
Weeding is carried out as the area under the rose becomes clogged. If the weeds are large, then manual weeding is required, small grass can be cut down with a hoe. At the same moment, carry out loosening. This agrotechnical technique will provide the root system with additional oxygen.
Garter to support
It is important to install the support even during planting of the seedling. But as the stem grows, it should be changed every time, installing a larger one in height
The support should be straight, not bend. The plant is tied to it in several places - so that it does not stagger.
Top dressing
During the season, the standard rose is fed several times.
- In the spring, after pruning, they are fed with mineral fertilizers together with organic matter. Any complex of minerals with a high percentage of nitrogen is suitable here. Humus is taken as organic matter. They are applied at the root by watering or in bulk, followed by incorporation into the soil.
- After the first flowering, a complex of mineral fertilizers is applied.
- After the second color, they are fed with mullein infusion and minerals.
- At the end of summer, closer to September, you can apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
In addition to root dressing, the rose is provided with regular foliar spraying with Kemira Lux and Solution solutions. These are complexes containing nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, as well as a set of minerals: boron, manganese, magnesium, zinc, iron. The concentration of the substance is optimal in the proportion of 1 gram per 1 liter of water. During flowering, spray in the morning and evening, until the dew has dried, and when it has just gone to bed.
Pruning
With the help of pruning, a crown is formed. Hybrid tea varieties and floribundas are pruned, leaving about five buds on the shoots. In climbing trees, last year's branches are removed, while young ones are slightly shortened. When there are no replacement branches, last year's shoots are only pruned.
Pruning standard roses for winter and spring is carried out with a sharp tool, at a right angle, retreating 1 centimeter from the bud. If the shoot is very thick, then take a file or a lopper. Slices are covered with brilliant green or garden pitch.
Wintering
In the last decade of October, they begin to shelter standard roses. Before this, the crown is cut off: the young growth is completely removed, and the remaining branches are shortened to 40 centimeters. All foliage is also cut off so that it does not become moldy during storage.
Having collected the branches of the crown in a bunch, they are wrapped with a covering material and tied with a rope. If the plant is short, then it is covered in a tilted state. To do this, on one side, they dig a trench under the stem and bend the tree down. Spruce branches are laid under the crown, then another layer of shelter is placed on top.
Rose in your garden
How to choose a good seedling
In amateur gardening by seed, the rose is not propagated due to the low germination of seeds. It will be easier to grow a bush from a two to three year old seedling, which can be purchased at a garden pavilion or at a fair. Saplings are self-rooted and grafted. Own-rooted seedlings are weaker, they develop more slowly, they build up the root system for a long time, so they can die in the first winter, but, unlike grafted ones, they do not form root shoots. The grafted seedlings bloom much faster, grow well and get sick less often, but you will have to fight the shoots every year.
In the photo: Rose seedlings
Planting dates and the best neighbors for a rose
It is better to plant roses in spring: there is a danger that a plant planted in a garden in autumn will not have time to take root before frost and will freeze in winter.
In autumn, roses are planted only in regions with late and warm winters.
Mallow, delphiniums, phloxes, daylilies, carnations, bells coexist well with roses. They will not compete with the rose, but, on the contrary, will emphasize its beauty and aristocracy.
In the photo: Roses in the flowerbed
Choosing and preparing a place for a rose
It is better to prepare a place for planting on the south or southeast side, since roses need warmth and light. The site must be protected from wind and drafts. A planting pit with a depth of about 80 cm and a diameter of up to half a meter is prepared in the fall: a layer of drainage of crushed stone, broken brick or expanded clay 15 cm thick is laid on the bottom, and then 2/3 of the foundation pit is covered with fertile soil mixed with mineral fertilizers. Until spring, fertilizers will dissolve and the soil will settle.
How to plant a rose
A good seedling should have 20 cm long roots and some strong shoots with six buds. Before planting, cut off all damaged, dry or rotten roots on the seedling, remove weak and dry shoots, and cut off the tops of healthy ones.
Pictured: Rose seedlings ready for planting
Place the seedling in the center of the planting hole and fill the remaining space with fertile soil from the topsoil. After planting, the grafting site should be 5 cm deep. Tamp the surface around the seedling and pour 10 liters of water over it.
If you are planting several rose bushes, leave a space of 50 to 100 cm between them so that the developing plants have enough nourishment area.
Garden rose care
Caring for garden roses consists in loosening the soil in the root area to provide oxygen access to the roots, weeding, abundant watering once a week, top dressing, treatments for diseases and pests (about three times per season) and annual pruning.
Top dressing for bushes is applied twice per season: in spring, at the beginning of growth, and in summer, after the first flowering. Roses need both organic matter, preferring rotted manure, and mineral fertilizers. However, excess nutrition will negatively affect the plant.
Roses in winter
For the winter, roses need to be covered, and it is better to do this in early November. Peat and loose earth are suitable for winter mulching, which are poured onto the cut bush with a slide not higher than 15 cm, and spruce branches are placed on top of the mound. They remove the shelter by the end of March.
Rose varieties
Garden (selection) and park (frost-resistant) varieties of roses are grown in the gardens.
Hybrid tea roses: bushes up to 90 cm high, flowers of regular shape and pronounced aroma reach 10-13 cm in diameter.
Floribunda are distinguished by more "loose" flowers of smaller size (up to 9 cm in diameter). These roses can be grown in containers, they are not afraid of frost.
Mini roses: these are very capricious, often ill grafted hybrids that do not grow above 40 cm.Their flowers can be painted in different colors, flowering lasts from summer to autumn. At home, they live no longer than four months.
Groundcover: These unpretentious, perennial frost-resistant plants cover the soil with many small flowers.
Shrubby: These rosehip-like double-flowered roses are not widespread, although they are not demanding to care for. They can be over a meter high and are suitable for hedges.
Climbing: Curly, luxurious and profusely blooming roses that need a garter. They are not very demanding, the main thing is to shelter them from the winter cold.
They are removed from the support, like grapes or clematis, carefully laid on spruce branches and covered.
In the photo: Blooming rose bush
The number of varieties of roses is so great and they are so diverse that everyone can choose a plant according to their capabilities and taste, and following our recommendations, you can enjoy the beauty and aroma of the queen of the garden from 5 to 8 years old.
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Diseases and pests of roses
Most varieties of roses have a high resistance to diseases and harmful insects, but violation of the rules of agricultural technology sometimes causes a number of problems:
Diseases of roses
Powdery mildew
Rust, manifested by deformation of shoots, brown and red spots on the leaves of roses. Affected bushes are treated with Topaz, Bayleton or 1% Bordeaux liquid solution.
For prevention, you need to prevent thickening of the bush and carry out spring processing with Zircon.
Peronosporosis occurs during wet and cold summers. The disease is manifested by cracking of the bark on the stems, red-brown or purple spots on the leaves, a grayish bloom on the bottom of the leaves, blackening and shedding of the outer petals of flowers. To combat the disease, Ridomil Gold and Profit are used. All diseased shoots are cut and burned.
Powdery mildew appears as a white powdery bloom on buds and leaves. Later, the plaque turns gray. Leaves and flowers wither, curl, dry and fall off. The plant stops growing. Especially often the disease appears with frequent rains.
Damaged areas are cut and burned. The rose bush is treated with colloidal sulfur, Fitosporin-M, Fundazol, Alirin, Bayleton. As a preventive measure, the bush is sprayed with a decoction of horsetail or nettle infusion.
Schochitous spotting is manifested by many yellow-white spots with a brown border on the leaves. The leaves turn yellow, curl, crumble.
The fallen leaves need to be burned, as they retain the spores of the fungus. Control measures - spraying with Profit, Kuprozan, Ridomil Gold, Ditan M-45 or fumigating the bushes with colloidal sulfur.
Chlorosis is manifested by a change in the color of the leaves to bright yellow or pale green. The edges of the foliage dry up. Dark buds appear on the leaves. After a while, the leaves crumble.
The causes of the appearance of the disease are the lack of essential elements in the earth: magnesium, iron, zinc and other substances, as well as poor or too abundant watering. The measure of control is the introduction of missing elements into the soil and competent agricultural technology.
Black spot
Black spot appears as purplish-white and then black-brown spots on the leaf surface. Severe damage to the disease leads to drying, twisting and falling of the leaves.
Control measures include pruning the affected shoots, removing dry leaves and burning them further. The bush is sprayed with Profit or Ridomil Gold + Skor or Topaz. The treatment is repeated three times (once a week).
Deep digging of the soil near the bushes and spraying the plants with Spark in early spring avoids the disease.
Rose pests
Rose leafhopper
Rose leafhopper covers the leaves of roses with the smallest white dots, giving them a marbling. Large populations of leafhoppers lead to yellowing and leaf fall. To combat the pest, rose bushes are twice treated with karbofos or other insecticides, with an interval of 10-14 days.
Spider mites appear during dry, hot seasons. The leaves are covered with light dotted spots with a cobweb below. The leaves turn yellow, turn brown and die off. Iskra, Fufanon are used for the prevention and control of the tick.
Green aphids stick around young shoots, the lower part of leaves, buds and suck out juices. the plant stops growing, the leaves curl, the buds do not open or are deformed. When found, the bushes are processed by Aktellik, Rogor, Metathion. As a preventive measure, the bushes are sprayed with soapy water or insecticides.
The leafworm damages the leaves, shoots and buds of young bushes. You can fight the pest by collecting and destroying the caterpillars by hand, with a large accumulation of them, processing by Rogor, Inta-Vir helps.
Bronzovka beetles eat rose petals, eating stamens and pistils. Control measure - collecting beetles in the morning, at sunrise.
What you need to know when growing standard roses
The main enemy of standard roses is strong wind, so it is important to choose a solid support, which should not only be reliable, but also have a decorative look. The support must be installed in a pit prepared in advance for planting before planting a standard rose - this way it will turn out to protect and not damage the roots of the plant
If you prefer to grow the stem yourself or decide to purchase it, then you should pay attention to the following qualities: the stem must be even, have a delicate aroma and high-quality flowers with healthy leaves, as well as arcuate stems - they look most organically in the final flowering version of the tree
It is important to pay attention to the height of the seedlings - the further location of the plant in the arrangement of the garden depends on this choice, and what varieties will be possible to plant on them. Standard roses are usually divided into categories that depend on the height of the boles and their size, not including the crown itself.
- low or dwarf standard (from 40 to 45 centimeters)
- half-stamp (from 70 centimeters)
- standard (from 90 centimeters)
- cascading (from 120 centimeters and above)
In general, any varieties of roses can be grafted onto the stem, but you can choose the right varieties in accordance with the size of the stem, not forgetting about the climatic features. It is also customary to plant one type of roses on one stem, however, there are variations when several varieties are used, for these purposes it is necessary to select those that bloom at the same time. Raised standard rose bushes of English types, half-stem varieties of floribunda or miniature patios will look spectacular. A rose garden or the presence of roses on the site always looks solemn and elegant.
What to look for when buying a stem
Today, in almost any market or in specialized gardening stores, you can buy standard roses in various containers: from ordinary bags to containers. By the type of packaging, you can understand exactly how the seedling was looked after, a plant grown in a container is more sensitive to the lack of proper watering
It is worth paying attention to the stem of the standard rose, it should be even, without damage and not thinner than one centimeter in diameter. If the stem is thicker, this indicates a weeping type of plant.
If the sapling of the trunk was acquired with white elongated stems from the buds, they must certainly be cut off when planting, so new buds will develop from dying off in any case. Be careful with roots that are exposed from the ground, such a plant will take longer to take root if it is not watered enough. So, after a little analysis, you can understand how well the seedlings were grafted, in what condition the soil and roots are, and how quickly the seedling will take root and develop in your garden after planting.
Siberian rose, planting features
The successful cultivation of Siberian roses directly depends on the planting site correctly chosen for the plant, the composition and structure of the soil and the correct planting of the seedling.
Place and time of planting Siberian roses
- In Siberia, the best time for planting roses is spring, when the threat of return frosts has completely passed and the soil warms up to + 10C. As a rule, they begin to plant roses in the second half of May.
- If the rose seedlings were purchased in the fall, it is better to dig them in until spring in the cellar. Autumn planting often ends in failure and freezing of a young immature seedling.
- It is better to choose a place for landing that is sunny, but protected from drafts or strong winds. Given the difficult Siberian climate, the optimal place for roses will be on the south side of the garden plot, protected by a wall of some kind of structure or hedge. As for the open area, in the hot season, the sun's rays can "burn" the plant, so roses planted in light partial shade (under sparse-leaved trees or near hedges) will be able to bloom longer and more spectacularly.
- If there are hills on the site (moreover, protected from the winds), it is worth choosing them for planting roses. In such places, the soil freezes less, the water does not stagnate, the plant develops faster and is less susceptible to rot disease.
- The best soil for roses is loamy or sandy loamy nutritious (well fertilized) soils with a slightly acidic (or neutral) reaction of the environment. In the case of increased acidity, a neutralizer is added to the soil, for example, wood ash.
Agricultural technology of planting Siberian roses
- A pit for planting roses is prepared in advance, best of all in the fall. A plot of land is dug up, after which they directly proceed to the planting pit.
- The size of the pit is not very large, corresponding to the average size of the root system of the seedling. Usually, it is enough to dig 40x40 cm.
- A drainage layer of broken brick or crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the planting pit. Organic fertilizers are poured on top of the drainage: compost, wood ash or rotted manure.
- In the spring, the prepared hole is slightly cleaned up, spilled with water and an earthen mound is poured. If the seedling is directly immersed in organic matter, young roots can be damaged and "burned".
- Before planting, the long shoots of the seedlings are cut off. This rule applies only to grafted varieties of roses, and after planting, the grafting should "look" to the east. Own-rooted seedlings are not pruned before planting.
- As for the roots, it is better to dip them before planting in a clay "chatterbox" (clay and mullein in a ratio of 2: 1), which improves root survival. Roots that are too long (more than 20 cm) can be shortened. Some growers prefer to soak the roots for several hours in a root formation stimulator, which also contributes to better survival and rooting of the seedling.
- In the planting pit, a small mound of soil is poured, on which the seedling is placed. Having spread the roots, the plant is covered with soil so that the root collar (or the grafting site) is 5-6 cm below the soil level. Climbing roses deepen twice as much, by 12-13 cm.
- The soil for planting is taken loose and nutritious, approximately in the following ratio:
- clay (1 part);
- sand (1 part);
- peat (2 parts);
- humus (3 parts);
- wood ash (0.5 part).
- Having compacted the soil after planting, the plant is watered with water, covered with earth (15 cm high) and the trunk circle is mulched with humus or sawdust. In the summer, as the seedling grows, the mound of land is gradually removed.
- The distance between plants depends on the variety: for medium-sized plants, it is enough to retreat 50-60 cm, for sprawling, vigorous specimens, an interval of at least 1 m is required.
Climbing Rose Care Sympathy
Climbing rose Sympathy is unpretentious. She survives a drop in temperature well, is resistant to adverse conditions. Minimal care is still needed.
Watering and loosening
The plant needs to be watered infrequently, just one moistening every 10-14 days is enough. Climbing rose Sympathy prefers morning watering. Take warm, settled water. Up to 3 buckets of water are poured under an adult bush at a time.
After watering, the soil is mulched - this will retain moisture and prevent weeds from growing. Take humus or manure mixed with compost or soil.
Top dressing
Mineral dressing is carried out after planting after 2 years. Use mixtures for flower crops.
Climbing rose Sympathy responds well to organic fertilizers. Manure is used for this. On one part of it, 10 parts of water are taken, kept for 10 days, then another 10 parts of water are poured. Ash is added to the solution.
As organic matter, you can take bird droppings. In this case, after infusion, add 20 parts of water.
During the warm period, top dressing is carried out 2-3 times.
Trimming and shaping
Climbing Rose Sympathy requires periodic pruning. In springtime, weak, broken shoots are removed. In autumn, branches that have faded are removed. Thus, the bush is rejuvenated.
A young bush is formed. At the age of 2 years, up to 7 skeletal branches are left, the rest are cut off. After 4 years, they are replaced with younger ones. In the future, one rejuvenation is repeated at 4-5 years. Experienced gardeners gradually replace one lash per year.
Protection from diseases and pests
Plant pests - spider mites, thrips, aphids.
Ticks are destroyed by treating the shrub with an infusion of wormwood, yarrow, and makhorka. Take 40 g per 1 liter of water.
To combat aphids, use a solution of laundry soap.
Advice! Marigolds planted nearby, treatment with a decoction of nettle and horsetail scare off pests.
If folk remedies do not work, use insecticides. For example, drugs will destroy thrips: "Karbofos", "Fufanon", "Inta-vir".
Of the diseases, bark cancer and powdery mildew are noted.
Powdery mildew is identified by white spots on the leaves. The disease manifests itself actively during periods of high humidity and temperatures, in July or August. The plant stops growing, flowering. The bush may die. As a warning, it is treated with Bordeaux liquid. The first time - after the winter shelter is removed, again - with a shoot height of 20 cm.
Bark cancer manifests itself after the removal of the shelter. Small red or brown spots are visible on the bark. Gradually, their size becomes larger, they cover the shoot in a ring. Such shoots are cut out, grabbing the healthy part from below, and burned. This fungal disease spreads in winter when there is high humidity under cover. As a preventive measure:
- limit the introduction of nitrogen fertilizers in the fall;
- increase feeding with potash formulations;
- air the bush during thaws in winter;
- cover in a timely manner in the fall and remove the shelter in the spring;
- remove infected shoots.
Black spot is identified by dark spots on the leaves. Over time, they become larger, the leaves fall off. The treatment with Bordeaux liquid of the bush and the soil under it helps. Take a 3% solution.
Gray rot affects all aerial parts of the rose. The same Bordeaux liquid helps. The processing is repeated after a short time.
Shelter for the winter
Climbing Rose Sympathy requires shelter for the cold season. It is removed from the support, diseased shoots are removed, twisted in a ring, laid and pinned to the ground. Spruce branches or foliage are placed under the bush. You can also put spruce branches on top, any covering material. Shelter after the onset of low temperatures down to -6 degrees. If a film is used, make sure that it does not touch the shoots, provide air access.
