Japanese spirea macrophylla planting and care photo

Planting a plant

The plant is grown on fertile, loose and moist soil.

This condition will ensure good growth of any kind of spirea, but it is equally important to choose the right young plant. Seedlings should only be purchased from specialist stores, garden centers or nurseries.

Thanks to this, a healthy plant of the desired variety can be obtained.

Basic rules for the selection and preparation of spirea seedlings:

  • the root system of the purchased seedling must be closed, that is, with a lump of earth;
  • the shoot should not have completely blossoming leaves, because such plants do not tolerate transplanting well into the ground;
  • on the shoot, the presence of several branches of the second order is appropriate. They should not be too spreading;
  • a good seedling has a light green bark, the buds should not be damaged;
  • before planting, the long roots are shortened to 30 cm. If the root system is dry, then the seedling is preliminarily placed in water for a day.

If the seedling is in a pot, then it is important to make sure. that its capacity is not small. If a seedling is purchased in a pot, then you need to inspect the holes in the container.

When the roots stick out of them, it means that the capacity is small for the plant and it has been there for a very long time. Such vegetation will take a long time and it will be difficult to take root in the open field.

If you are purchasing a seedling in a pot, then you need to inspect the holes in the container. When the roots stick out of them, it means that the capacity is small for the plant and it has been there for a very long time. Such vegetation will take a long time and will be difficult to take root in the open field.

Best regions to plant

Spirea grows well in many regions. For example, all varieties are suitable for the Krasnodar Territory, the Caucasus and Asia, since the climate here is warm. For cultivation in the Urals, in the western and southern parts of Siberia, in central Russia, frost-resistant species are chosen. For these areas, gray spirea, Wanguta, Billard, Firelight and others are suitable, which tolerate frost well down to -25 ° C.

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Planting stages

After the selection of high-quality seedlings of the optimal variety for the region, planting is carried out. The main rules and main stages of this process, carried out in the fall, are expressed as follows:

  • pits are prepared, with a depth of 40 cm. A layer of sand or fine gravel about 10 cm thick is laid on the bottom. If several bushes are planted in a row, then the minimum distance between the holes should be 35 - 40 cm;

  • a seedling with roots, the length of which is not more than 30 cm, is placed in the hole. The plant is sprinkled with earth to the point where the root system ends and the trunk begins;
  • no fertilizer is required in the hole. If the spirea takes root without them, then the plant is strong in itself. This is true for high quality soil, loose, fertile and drained. When the soil is dehydrated, then a few weeks before planting the spirea, it is saturated with peat or mineral fertilizers. After planting, the plant is watered.

Planting seedlings is best done not in a freshly dug hole, but in a hole created 2 - 3 days before the plant is transplanted. During this time, the soil will be ventilated and the bush will be comfortable. If the soil is clay, then crushed stone and sand in layers of 20 cm are added to it. Before planting, they slightly moisten the too dry and hard soil, but it is best to plant the plant in cloudy and rainy weather. It is worth remembering that summer-flowering varieties are planted in the ground in the spring until the buds bloom.If the plant is flowering in spring, then this process is carried out in the fall. Bushes can be grown in one place for about 15 years.

Planting and caring for the Macrophyll spirea

This ornamental plant is not at all demanding. Even those who have never done this are capable of growing a healthy and strong bush. For spirea Macrophyll, standard agricultural practices are applicable.

Preparation of planting material and site

The key to a quick adaptation of a plant to a new place and rapid growth is a healthy planting material. This is evidenced by the flexibility and the presence of buds on the shoot. If there is a Macrophyll spirea seedling with an open root system, then first of all it is necessary to inspect the root system. Remove all dry, yellow areas. Shorten roots that are too long. It is worth trimming the upper part of the seedling by 1/3 of the length.

Planting material with a closed root system, first of all, must be removed from the container. Drizzle with warm water. If hardening has formed, it is best to leave the seedling in a container of water for several hours.

The photophilous nature of an ornamental shrub determines its active development in the sun. If necessary, you can plant the Macrophyll spirea in partial shade. The shrub gives abundant root growth, which increases the occupied area. This fact should be taken into account when planning the landing site.

Any soil is suitable as a growing medium. Of course, flowering will be much more abundant in fertile and loose soil. The depleted substrate is fertilized with peat or a mixture of river sand with leafy soil. It will be useful to arrange a drainage layer of broken bricks and pebbles.

Planting spirea Macrophyll in the garden

Planting procedure for summer-flowering spirea Macrofill is performed in the spring. The main task is to be in time before the foliage bloom. During the warm period, the plant will root well and will endure the first wintering without any problems.

It is advisable to choose a cloudy or rainy day for planting. To plant shrubs in rows, it is necessary to leave a gap between the pits of about half a meter. Algorithm for planting spirea Macrophyll:

  1. Prepare a depression 1/3 larger than the root ball. Approximately 50x50 cm.
  2. The bottom is lined with crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay. Layer height - 15 cm.
  3. Then add a mixture of turf, peat and sand.
  4. A Macrophyll spirea seedling is placed in the center of the recess and sprinkled with earth.
  5. The soil is not compacted.
  6. The plant is watered with 20 liters of water.
  7. When the water is absorbed, the trunk circle is sprinkled with peat.

Watering and feeding

Due to the fact that an ornamental plant does not have the ability to penetrate deeply, the issue of moisture is acute. Especially during periods of drought, then the volume of fluid is increased. The water norm for Macrophyll spirea on average leaves 15-20 liters in the interval of 7-10 days. The watering process should be regular, starting from the moment of planting. The young individual needs to be moistened more often. Water is preferably used at room temperature.

For the entire growing season, Macrophylla spirea should be fed 3 times. The first time - in March, fertilized with nitrogenous preparations. The second procedure falls in June, and the next one is performed in August. In the summer they are fed with complex mineral and organic substances.

Pruning

An important stage in the process of caring for Macrophyll's spirea is pruning. Bushes tend to grow, so adjustment is required from time to time. With the help of pruning, gardeners achieve a beautiful shape and long flowering.

Sick, dry, poorly developed shoots are removed in early spring. Long branches are shortened by trimming the tips to strong buds. Bushes that are more than 4 years old need to be cut tightly, leaving shoots only 20-25 cm long from the root. If after this spirea Macrophylla gives a weak growth, it's time to think about replacing the bush. Although the life expectancy of this culture is on average 15 years.

Preparing for winter

From the description it follows that Macrophylla's spirea is a winter-hardy plant.She can endure even harsh winters without shelter. However, extra protection does not hurt when it comes to a young plant. Bending the shoots to the ground will help to transfer the cold without consequences. They are pinned with rods to the surface, and sprinkled with dry foliage on top with a layer of 15 cm.

Basic shrub care

  • Watering. Prepare to water your newly planted Macrophila frequently. Water a mature bush 2 times a month (but only if it is hot outside, since this culture does not tolerate drought well) + mandatory watering after each pruning. But be careful - the bush does not need extra moisture. 15 liters for a bush is more than enough.
  • Nutrition. Spirea Macrophylla responds well to feeding. In early spring, a balanced composition with nitrogen can be given under the bush. From June to July, also give spirea complex fertilizer (1-2 times a month), and from the second half of July, transfer the bush to a phosphorus-potassium diet. Moreover, nutrients can be introduced both by the root method (watering) and by foliar. And in the fall, add humus or compost directly to the ground.
  • "Manual therapy". Remove weeds, especially in spring, when the plant is cut and the weeds are openly spreading rot.
  • Pests. In hot weather, when the air is especially dry, spider mites or aphids can attack the bush. Do not let these insects descend, because because of their activity, the beauty of Macrophylla suffers - the leaves curl up, dry. As soon as you see the first signs of the presence of small enemies, immediately spray the bush with insecticide.
  • Prevention. So that the bush does not get sick all summer, you can carry out two spraying - one in the spring, one in the summer. Use Actellic, Aktara, Angio or another similar insecticide.

If you have humus soil and a lot of beetles (May beetles), the spire can be threatened by the scoop, it is the coffin - the larva of this insect that kills the roots. In April, it makes sense to treat the plant with "Antichrushchem", "Prestige" or the aforementioned "Aktara". Part of the insecticide solution goes to the crown, part to the ground. Treatments can be carried out every 30-40 days, right up to September.

Diseases. Macrophylla can suffer from powdery mildew or leaf spot (anthracnose). You can cure these diseases by spraying the fungicide with spirea ("Maxim", "Radomil", "Switch" and so on).

The subtleties of trimming this decorative culture

In the spring, the entire upper part of the bush must be removed. Do you remember - reddish decorative leaves, as well as flowers appear on the shoots of this year! In addition, if you do not cut the bush, its old shoots will begin to lean to the ground and dry up, aging the plant and "killing" its decorative effect.

Leave no more than 40 cm of shoots above the ground.

Perform the second pruning after flowering, that is, in late summer or early fall. Remove all "spent" inflorescences. It also makes sense to "sort out" the crown by cutting off diseased and broken branches (sanitary pruning).

An expert of the garden center will tell in more detail about the pre-planting (spring), summer and autumn pruning of such a spirea:

How Japanese spirea reproduces

  • Seeds. The most uncommon method, as it is very long. Why wait so long (10 days for shoots + 3 months for taking care of shoots before planting in open ground), if the bush can be blackened? By the way, if you collect seeds from your Macrophylla and germinate, it turns out that a more rustic spirea will grow - the seeds will not transfer varietal characteristics.
  • Division of the bush. Only a mature (from 4 years old) bush needs to be disturbed with such a procedure.
  • Cuttings. You can cut a branch for rooting in the second half of June. The stalk is planted in sand + peat. Spray it often (up to 4 times a day), or better put a bag on the pot with cuttings - it will keep the correct moisture inside. It is worth planting it in the spring.

You can see how you can quickly cross out a twig during the planned pruning of a spirea in this video:

Layers. This is the easiest way.In the spring, bend one of the branches of the bush, semi-lignified, to the ground, fix it (a metal or wooden peg, a stone will do), sprinkle it with earth. Water this twig all summer. When it takes root, cut off the shoot and you can plant it in a new place.

An experienced gardener will show the work with a layering of this decorative culture in the spring:

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If desired, you can get a flowering bush by the desired date and this process is called forcing. Plants are dug up in the autumn months and sent to small boxes with moist and nutritious soil, or you can plant the flower directly in the pot.

It is better to leave such boxes and pots in the fresh air before the onset of night frost. After the temperature begins to take negative values ​​at night, the boxes are brought into the house, placing them in a dark and cool place - for example, in a cellar.

A month and a half before the expected flowering time, the boxes are taken out of the cellar, placed on the windowsill and watering begins. Soon after the change in the conditions of detention, the first young leaves can be seen.

Diseases and pests

The shrub is very resistant to diseases and pests. But if it's a hot summer or drought, a leafworm may start on it. She eats the leaves, they become weak, and the bush may die. To destroy the pest, use the drugs "Decis Profi" or "Fitoverm".

Aphids can attack spirea all summer long, especially if it's rainy. From aphids, the leaves will begin to curl up, as the pests suck the juice from the plant. Remove any damaged leaves and spray the bush with insecticide.

Dispose of fallen leaves from under the bush. There, female spider mites usually start up, which then climb onto healthy shrubs. They live under a leaf, and you can not immediately notice them. When the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, only then can this pest be identified. In this case, remove the affected leaves and treat the foliage with the Acrex solution.

Whitefly and blue meadow sawfly are considered the most dangerous pests for spirea. For the fight, copper sulfate and a solution of laundry soap are used. If these remedies do not help, it is better to get rid of the shrub so that the infection does not spread to healthy plantings. Treat the infected area with Bordeaux liquid, and refrain from planting any planting on this place for a couple of years.

Take regular preventive measures to keep pests out.

The Macrophylla variety is one of the most wonderful varieties of spirea. In natural conditions, spirea can be seen quite often, usually the places of growth are the banks of reservoirs, lakes and rivers, but they can also be seen in forests and on mountains. This article reveals the secrets of care, a description of Macrophil's spirea, a photo of a beautiful plant.

Features of this type of spirea

It is a decorative deciduous culture.

It is not "greenhouse" - wild spireas can be found in different parts of the Northern Hemisphere, if you look on the slopes of mountains, in open forests, and especially near rivers and lakes. Siberia, the Far East, Northern China, the black earth part of Europe - this is where such a plant came to our gardens.

How do landscape designers use shrubbery? In different ways: for the decoration of flower beds, and as a border, shrub mixborder or forest edge, and as a ground cover plant. Macrophylla is suitable for both group and single planting. It is effectively inscribed in rockeries or alpine slides.

This variety is also known as Macrophila Japanese meadowsweet or large-leaved meadowsweet.

Also, this bush is considered unpretentious - it endures smog (even the capital), is not afraid of frost.

The frost resistance of the species is 4. This means that the spirea can be grown throughout Belarus and Ukraine, and in Russia - in most of the country (including the Moscow region).

Although it seems to me that in St. Petersburg and Vladivostok, the plant may need shelter for the winter (you will be told about this in more detail in your nursery). By the way, if you live in a cold region, you do not need to order seedlings from warmer regions - buy those grown from you, they will take root better.

What does this plant look like

  • The maximum size of a bush. This roundish shrub grows up to 1.3 meters in height and 1.5 meters in width.
  • Shoots. Straight, silky texture. Raised up.
  • Foliage. Large, decorative. When blooming, the foliage has a pinkish-red tint, turns green in summer, and becomes yellowish-golden in autumn (however, at the very tips of the branches, the foliage remains reddish despite the season). The length of the leaf is up to 20 cm, the width is up to 10 cm. The deciduous plate is embossed, wrinkled, swollen.
  • Flowers. They appear in July (therefore, Macrophilus belongs to the group of summer flowering shrubs). They are quite cute - pale pink, collected in medium-sized scutellus inflorescences. They are formed at the tips of the shoots that have grown this year. Against the background of bright foliage, these flowers are not always noticeable, so some people believe that the decorative spirea does not bloom at all.
  • Root system. Very wide, branched.

How to plant?

The most important thing is to choose a strong and whole seedling before planting, which will later turn into a beautiful bush. That is why it is better to purchase spirea in special garden stores or nurseries. It is worth stopping the choice on plants aged 2-3 years.

It is advisable to plant "Darts Red" in an area well lit by the sun throughout the day. The plant tolerates a little shade well, but at the same time it will not look as bright and luxuriant as in the sun. It should be borne in mind that spirea does not like drafts and strong winds. The soil should be fertile, loose and well moisturized.

Soil preparation begins with digging up the soil and removing weeds and roots. After that, the soil must be loosened and leveled. Planting spirea, as a rule, is carried out in the first months of spring, before the buds bloom, or in the middle of autumn. It is advisable to choose a cloudy or slightly rainy day for planting. Pits for planting are made several times larger than the root system of the shrub. The hole depth must be at least 0.5 meters

When planting several bushes, it is important to maintain a distance of 0.4-0.7 meters between them. The bottom of the pit is covered with drainage, which will not allow moisture to stagnate at the roots

In order to make the soil more nutritious, you can add complex mineral fertilizers to it. For each pit, it is enough to add one tablespoon of such feeding. Immediately before planting, the container with seedlings should be watered so that it is easier to get them. The seedlings must be lowered into the prepared recesses and covered with soil so that the root collar is flush with the ground or slightly higher. Then the bushes need to be watered well, and mulch should be sprinkled around the trunk.

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