Spathiphyllum: growing and caring for female happiness at home

What to do if spathiphyllum blooms green

To save the decorativeness of the plant, a number of step-by-step measures are performed:

The whole green flower is cut off. Removing the petiole shoot will allow the spathiphyllum to grow new flower stalks.
The plant is rearranged to a new location. Greening is often due to a lack of light. The plant should be on the windowsill and have access to fresh air.
For this type, soil mixtures with a low pH are suitable. If the flower was previously planted in acidic soil, this may be the reason for the color change. In this case, an urgent transplant into a special soil is required. Use a versatile or flowering substrate

It is important to maintain the required acidity level.
If the flowers at the spathiphyllum turn green, then fertilization will help to save the situation. During the year, feeding is carried out 2 times a month, in winter - 1 time a month

It is permissible to use organic and mineral fertilizers.
Soil moistening should be systematic. Do not allow the top layer of the earth to dry out. At the slightest drying out, the leaves begin to fade and wilt.

Correct flower placement

Note! Drafts are extremely detrimental to spathiphyllum.

Spathiphyllum care at home

How to care for spathiphyllum

Watering during the growing season and flowering should be abundant, but the roots of the spathiphyllum do not tolerate stagnant moisture, so be careful and let the top layer of the substrate dry between waterings. In winter, watering is reduced, but the substrate should not dry out completely. Spathiphyllum requires high air humidity, so in the spring-summer period it is useful to frequently sprinkle the plant or simply wipe the leaves with a damp sponge, and in winter it is better to keep the flowerpot on a pallet with wet pebbles or expanded clay. The dormant period in spathiphyllum lasts from October to January.

Soil for spathiphyllum

The substrate for spathiphyllum needs a loose, fertile one. In its natural habitat, spathiphyllum grows in soil consisting of fallen leaves, compost, charcoal and rotting branches, so you can make a soil mixture for home spathiphyllum from three parts of peat, two parts of garden soil, two parts of perlite and three parts of substrate for orchids , which in turn consists of charcoal, bark and gravel.

You can try a different composition, the main thing is that the soil for spathiphyllum is not heavy, otherwise there is a risk of water stagnation in the roots. It is in order to avoid decay of the roots that take care of good drainage.

Spathiphyllum transplant

Young plants are transplanted every year, so it is important to know how to properly transplant spathiphyllum. Plants that have reached the age of five are transplanted only when the roots appear from the drainage hole.

Spathiphyllum needs a small and shallow pot; in large pots, the soil sour even before the roots of the plant take over it. Each time, choose a vessel slightly larger than the previous one, and as soon as you reach a pot with a diameter of 18-20 cm, you can stop transplanting, just renew the top layer of the substrate in the flowerpot from time to time. This recommendation applies only to those spathiphyllums that grow no higher than 30-40 cm.

Water well before removing the spathiphyllum from the old pot. If you are interested in spathiphyllum growing large, with beautiful leaves, separate during transplanting all the lateral processes on which the plant expends considerable forces. Pour a 2-2.5 cm thick expanded clay drainage layer into a new pot, then a few centimeters of fresh substrate, on which put the spathiphyllum together with an earthen lump, and gradually add the substrate into the voids, tamping it down as the pot fills. If the new soil is wet, then water it after transplanting the spathiphyllum only slightly so that the soil settles.In the evening, when it gets dark, spray the plant with a solution of two drops of epin in a glass of water to speed up the rooting process. The procedure can be repeated after a week.

Do not water Spathiphyllum after transplanting for the next few days, but spray it twice a day to make it easier for it to recover from stress. Watering resumes three to four days after transplanting.

Reproduction of spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum reproduces by dividing the bush during a spring transplant

The lateral processes along with the roots are carefully separated from the mother plant, trying not to damage them, then the delenki are seated in separate containers with a substrate for an adult spathiphyllum and are looked after, as described in the previous chapter.

As for the reproduction of spathiphyllum by seeds, even if you manage to collect them, their germination, which is already low, is lost very quickly, so you need to sow the seeds immediately after collecting them into the soil from sand and peat, cover with glass or film and monitor that so that the soil in the greenhouse is moist, but not wet, airing the seedlings from time to time. The seed propagation method is complex and laborious, in addition, there is no guarantee that the result will be the variety that you have sown, therefore, amateur growers prefer the vegetative method of propagation of spathiphyllum.

Fertilizing spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum is fed once every 2-3 weeks during the growing season from March to September with full mineral fertilizer at the rate of 1-1.5 g per 1 liter of water. You can alternate mineral and organic fertilizers. During the dormant period, feeding is stopped, but if the plant continues to grow, then you can fertilize it once a month.

How to properly care for spathiphyllum at home

Several countries are considered to be the birthplace of spathiphyllum: tropical forests in America, Venezuela, Brazil, Colombia, as well as the Philippine Islands. The name of the plant comes from two Greek words "spata" and "phillum", which translate as "veil" and "leaf". Spathiphyllum has green oval basal leaves.

Florists and florists claim that flower care is almost the same as for anthurium. Of course, there are some differences as well.

Watering mode: winter - summer

In summer and spring, spathiphyllum is very fond of abundant watering. Indeed, at this time the plant blooms. However, you should watch that in between watering the earth dries out: waterlogging should not be allowed. At least this applies to the outer layer of the earth. In winter and autumn, watering is moderate. At this time, the plant can stand longer without watering, but you must always be on the lookout. If you water the plant abundantly in winter and keep it on a cold windowsill, then problems with the root system are guaranteed.

Illumination requirements

It is better if diffused light falls on the spathiphyllum. Although the plant loves well-lit areas, the hot sun's rays can harm the leaves. Therefore, you can place the flower in a small shade without direct sunlight. In summer, shading the plant is a must.

Temperature regime

The average temperature regime for spathiphyllum is + 16-17 ° С. It can withstand a decrease up to +13 ° С, but this will stop the development of the plant. In summer and spring, spathiphyllum prefers a temperature of + 22-23 ° C. However, it is able to withstand the heat of +27 ° C, subject to abundant watering.

Air humidity

Air humidity can be high: spraying will be useful at any time. It is recommended to plant the plant in a pot with a tray into which you need to pour water. The moisture will evaporate, creating a special microclimate.

Fertilizer, top dressing

In the spring, you need to feed the plant with mineral fertilizers. The fertilizer concentration is as follows: 1.5 grams per liter of water. In summer and during flowering, you can also feed with minerals. When the plant has not yet grown, fertilizer should be applied once every two weeks. Then you can feed it once a month.Organic substances, such as diluted bird droppings, are also good fertilizers. In winter, feeding is usually less frequent and in smaller doses.

Why is it not dismissed?

The extent to which the plant is provided with care directly depends on whether it will delight you with its flowers or not. If spathiphyllum does not bloom for a long time, then there are reasons for this.

Consider all possible options for the absence of flowering:

1. The container is too free. In a large pot, the plant spends energy on developing the root system, and therefore, instead of beautiful flowers, you get new leaves.
2. The plant loves bright light, but this does not mean that it should be placed in open sunlight.
3. Spathiphyllum is very afraid of drafts, if you forget about it, the plant not only stops blooming, but can soon get sick and die.
4. Excessive watering also provokes disease in the plant, not flowering.
5. Dry air and occasional watering also adversely affect spathiphyllum.
6. The lack of nutrients in the soil is also bad for the flower.
7. Improper care can lead to various diseases and pests.

For reference! An old plant does not give flowers, in order for it to please you again, it is enough to simply plant it. And the spathiphyllum will bloom again.

What to do?

To understand why the plant does not bloom, you need to pay attention to care, perhaps the reason lies in it. For example:

• Insufficient moisture.
• Excess or lack of lighting.
• Insufficient fertilization.
• Possibly a transplant error.

If this is the reason, then it is enough to correct the oversight and the plant will start to please you. Another reason for the lack of flowering in spathiphyllum can be diseases or pests, which must also be dealt with in a timely manner.

About how often spathiphyllum blooms at home, when this process begins and how to help the plant, read here.

Step-by-step instructions for beginners how to care

First steps after purchase - After you have brought the spathiphyllum plant home from the store, you should try to transplant it into a new pot with the correct substrate within a few days. Indeed, in the containers sold, the nutrient value of the soil is designed only for the sale period, so the sooner you transplant the plant and start taking proper care of it, the less stress it will have to endure. It will immediately begin to adapt to good conditions.

Choosing a pot - you don't need to take a large pot, it should differ from the previous one by only 2 cm, no more (this is the case with each transplant). As for the material for the pot, it does not really matter, since the main thing for a plant is female happiness - how to care for it, then the flower will grow beautifully in both plastic and ceramic, but the ceramic must be covered with glaze from the inside, then it will not be able to absorb into itself moisture (roots need it).

Preparation of the substrate - it is best to purchase ready-made soil - for Aroid plants, but you can, of course, prepare it yourself
To do this, we take leafy humus and sod land (equally), add sand and peat to them, it is important to remember that the substrate should turn out to be loose and light, then the plant will develop correctly and successfully.

The choice of a place is the most successful place for Spathiphyllum in spring and summer - the northern window, in the autumn-winter period it will feel better on the east or west window, since the plant is thermophilic, you need to ensure the reliability of the window - so that there are no cracks, it is not blown anywhere ...

Watering - loves water very much, especially in spring and summer, water only with settled soft water.

Top dressing - you need to feed it in spring and summer with complex fertilizer for flowering plants once every two weeks.

Lighting - dim diffused light is preferable, because this is a tropical plant, if the windows in the apartment only face the sunny side, then the flower will need to be shaded or placed not on the windowsill, but on a stand about a meter from the window.

Temperature - in spring and summer, a suitable temperature for a plant is 22 - 25 degrees, in winter it is advisable not to allow a drop of less than 16 degrees.

Humidity - naturally, Spathiphyllum needs high humidity, it will be useful to put a pot with a plant in a tray with expanded clay or pebbles filled with water, thanks to the vapors, the humidity of the air around the flower increases. It would be ideal to increase the humidity with a humidifier
It is also good to put a decorative fountain next to the plant.

Spraying - the flower responds very well to spraying with warm water (or room temperature) from a spray bottle, you can do this every day, but only on the leaves, water should not get on the flowers.
TIP: The plant also strongly loves a shower (warm), it is necessary to bathe it once a week.

Transplant - required as needed, small bushes need to be transplanted every year, and already adults about 1 time in 3 years, but for them (adults) every year it is necessary to change the topsoil to a new one

Transplanting should be done in the spring: it is imperative to first pour a drainage layer on the bottom;
then place the plant and carefully add new soil to the sides and a little on top;
then pour and put in place.

Watch a video about the rules for caring for spathiphyllum at home:

Step by step care instructions

Seat selection

Spathiphyllum Picasso loves good lighting. But the sheet plates should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Therefore, it is best to stir the pot on the southeast or east sides of the room. If you are placing the flowerpot on a southern windowsill, protect the plant from the sun's rays. To do this, hang sheets of paper on the window.

In the autumn and winter period, additional lighting is required (2-3 hours a day) - phytolamps are best suited for this.

What should be the soil?

The soil for Picasso's Spathiphyllum needs to be selected lightweight, air-permeable and water-permeable. The substrate must be regularly loosened, fertilized and moisturized. The most optimal soil composition:

• peat;
• bark (preferably coniferous trees);
• sand (coarse is needed, so it is better to take river sand);

All of this is taken in the same proportions.

Landing

It is necessary to transplant the plant in early spring, when its flowering has not yet begun. Planting instructions:

1. place a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot (its height is 1.5-2 cm);
2. up to half of the flowerpot, the substrate described above is poured;
3. the plant is laid, while the roots are spread over the entire surface of the soil with gentle movements, the processes are pressed with light pressure;
4. the remaining soil is poured on top, tamped;
5. water well and wait for the soil to settle;
6. add soil to a full pot;
7. leaf plates are sprayed;
8. for the first five days, the seedling is stored under a cellophane cover.

Temperature

Spathiphyllum Picasso belongs to heat-loving plants. Lowering the air temperature to 10 degrees and below can lead to diseases of the flower or its death. The optimal temperature regime is 19-21 degrees above zero. In summer, if the air warms up more, spray the plant to cool the plant.

Watering

This type of plant loves moisture, so the soil in the flowerpot should be moistened all the time. Air humidity is also an important factor - it is kept at the level of 40-50%.

You need to water twice a week, while pouring water abundantly. It is impossible to moisten the soil often and in small portions. In winter, the frequency of watering is reduced to once every seven days.

For additional humidification, place a container of water next to the flower pot. As it evaporates, it raises the level of humidity in the air.

Spray the bush daily. Once a week, wipe the leaf plates with a damp cloth - this will protect the leaves from dust accumulation that causes flower diseases.

Reference! For irrigation, it is better to use settled water (you can also take clean rain or filtered water).

Top dressing

In the spring and summer season, Picasso's spathiphyllum needs intensive feeding. We recommend using complex fertilizers. It is better to buy ready-made in a specialized store. Top dressing is applied in small doses - 1-1.5 g per liter of water is enough. Fertilizers are introduced along with water so that the beneficial elements reach the root system.

When the plant begins to bloom, feeding is stopped. For better flowering, Picasso is fertilized with potassium and phosphorus (taken in equal proportions).

You can use organic fertilizers - bird droppings. It is brought in in small portions once a month.

Pruning

As soon as the buds have faded, the peduncles are immediately removed - this is necessary so that the peduncles do not take nutrients from the plant. Cut dry leaves in a timely manner. Do not forget to remove the affected leaf plates and parts of the root.

After pruning, the cut sites are treated with crushed charcoal - such a manipulation will protect the plant from infection.

Transfer

A transplant is necessary for Picasso's Spathiphyllum if the roots have grown strongly. This is done at the very beginning of spring before flowering.

Transplant algorithm:

1. The old soil is moistened, it is allowed to brew for soaking.
2. After that, the rhizomes are removed from the flowerpot and cleaned of old soil.
3. The roots are examined, if there are rotten and dry ones, they are removed.
4. A drainage layer 1.5-2 cm high is placed on the bottom of the pot.
5. Sprinkle with earth (height 2-3 cm).
6. Place the plant in a flowerpot and sprinkle it with earth until it is completely filled.
7. Water the flower a little so that the earth is compacted, then add more soil.
8. In the first week after transplanting, cover the leaves with plastic. At the same time, take it off daily for airing.

Aerial roots do not need to be deeply buried - they will serve as an additional support for the plant.

Spathiphyllum care at home

Spathiphyllum can grow in diffused light and in partial shade. In the shade, the leaves of spathiphyllum turn dark green, the leaf may take on a more elongated shape, flowering becomes rare or stops.

If you find these signs, then the plant lacks lighting. The plant should be protected from direct sunlight, keep this in mind when placing the plant on the southern windows. The northern windows are well suited for the spathiphyllum, but on the southern windows the spathiphyllum blooms more abundantly and longer and is much larger in size.

Spathiphyllum is a thermophilic plant, in the spring-summer period it prefers temperatures in the range of + 22 ... + 23 ° C, not lower than + 18 ° C. In the autumn-winter period, the optimum temperature is not lower than + 16 ° C, as this inhibits the development of the plant. Temperatures below + 10 ° C are critical, as at this temperature the plants rot and may die. Spathiphyllums do not tolerate drafts.

Watering

Watering spathiphyllum is necessary all year round. During flowering, in spring and summer, abundant watering is required, it is possible from a pallet, but the topsoil must dry out between waterings. In winter, watering is moderate. The earthen coma should not be allowed to dry out, at the same time, stagnant water in the pot can be detrimental to the plant.

For watering and spraying, use only settled water (it must be defended for at least 12 hours). The drooping leaves of spathiphyllum indicate that it lacks moisture. From excessive watering, dark spots appear on the leaves.

Air humidity

All spathiphyllums love high humidity. Spraying with soft water, a tray with wet moss or sand, the atmosphere of the aquarium, a warm shower from time to time - all this has a beneficial effect on the growth of spathiphyllums - natives of a humid climate.It is no coincidence that the tips of the leaves are stretched out into a sharp dropper and droop down: this is how the leaves get rid of excessive streams of tropical showers.

In conditions of dry air in most rooms, even with timely spraying (2 times a day), drying of the tips of the leaves is observed

When spathiphyllum blooms, it is necessary to spray carefully so that water does not get on the bedspread and the cob.

From October to January, the plant has a dormant period, but if it is provided with sufficient air humidity, spathiphyllum can bloom in winter.

Top dressing spathiphyllum

During the active growing season (from March to September), spathiphyllums are fed with a full mineral fertilizer of low concentration (1-1.5 g per liter of water). You can feed it with a special fertilizer for indoor plants that does not contain lime, for example, Azalea, Flower, etc.

Good results are obtained by alternating feeding with solutions of mineral fertilizers and fresh mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:15 or 1:20. After feeding and before feeding, the plants are watered abundantly with water at room temperature. If spathiphyllum blooms in winter, then it is fed with the same fertilizers after 3-4 weeks. The appearance of brown spots on the leaves indicates an excess of nutrients.

Transplant and substrate

The signal for transplanting is the roots that have filled the entire volume of the pot with the plant. It is better to transplant in the spring.

Spathiphyllum is sensitive to root damage, transplant carefully

The soil for transplanting is slightly acidic (pH - 5-6.5). Excess moisture damages the plant, so the soil must be loose so that excess moisture can drain freely into the pan. Spathiphyllums feel quite good in ordinary humus, to which you need to add brick chips, pieces of charcoal. A mixture of equal parts of leaf and sod land, humus, peat and river sand is suitable.

You can use a ready-made substrate for aroids by adding pieces of charcoal to it. Good drainage is essential. A pot for spathiphyllum is chosen a little larger than the previous one; too large a pot will inhibit flowering. It is better to shed the earth with a dark pink hot solution of potassium permanganate.

After transplanting, the plants need warmth, moderate watering, frequent spraying, all this contributes to rapid rooting. Plants take root better if they temporarily create greenhouse conditions (cover with transparent material), but do not forget to ventilate them.

Wallis spathiphyllum (Spathiphyllum wallisii). Flowers lady

Are there varieties of spathiphyllum that bloom with green flowers

The spathiphyllum plant, in addition to a long cob, also has a bracts - a "veil". Brightly colored bedspreads come in a variety of shades. The color change to green is often troubling, even for experienced growers. There are several reasons for this.

It is important to understand: why do spathiphyllum flower have green flowers, what should I do?

Spathiphyllum flower

The spathiphyllum plant is represented by a wide variety of varieties. In flower shops, the most common are:

• Charming. It is distinguished by the shape of the leaf plate with the most pronounced veins. The inflorescences are light green. Compliance with the rules of care allows you to achieve year-round flowering.
• Abundantly flowering - the smallest representative of spathiphyllum. Able to bloom throughout the year.
• Chopin has been the most popular subspecies for many years. The plant is able to absorb harmful air and saturate the environment with oxygen. The perianth is white with a green edging. The flower plate is painted white.
• A rare representative of the species is the Picasso variety, which is one of the brightest spathiphyllums.

Profusely flowering variety

On a note! In some varieties, greening of flowers occurs "with age." For example, the Helikonielistny variety.