Reproduction
Pelargonium reproduces well by seeds and cuttings.
Cuttings
It is better to make cuttings of white geraniums in spring. Shoots will quickly root and take root well. Lateral and upper stems more than 5 cm long are cut, dried, sprinkled on the leg with "Kornevin". Cuttings are planted in moist peat soil. With the appearance of new leaves, the cutting is transplanted into another pot.
Seeds
Sowing is carried out in moist soil to a depth of no more than 5 cm. The container with the crops is covered with foil or glass, but regularly ventilated. Seedlings may appear on the third day. The grown bushes are planted in small pots or boxes at a distance of at least 25 cm from each other.
The right conditions and careful maintenance will guarantee you beautiful flowering of these amazing plants. White pelargonium will surely become your favorite and a kind of amulet at home.
For information on how to perform the formation of pelargonium, see the video below.
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Ivy-leaved terry pelargonium with white flowers, pink strokes may appear in the center of the petals. Sprawling bush, abundant flowering.
I'm not a fan of ivy varieties, so two whites are enough for me - Ice Rose and PAC Viva Carolina
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Pelargonium ivy PAC White Pearl (Pak White Pearl).
A powerful bush with huge caps of white inflorescences, crimson drops in the middle of the flower. It grows as an ampel, with return it needs a voluminous pot.
Planting pelargonium: Planting pelargonium in the garden is within the power of even a novice gardener - the process does not require adherence to any complicated rules. You just need to remember about the long roots of the plant, digging holes about 20 cm deep.It is better to leave a distance of 20-30 cm between the bushes when planting.
Care of pelargonium: Pelargonium requires systematic moderate watering: the soil should not dry out or an abundant amount of moisture in the soil should be avoided. The flower does not need to be sprayed. Garden varieties of pelargonium feel good in partial shade, in direct sunlight, flowering is weak. Therefore, darkening is required on particularly hot days. The optimum air temperature for garden plants is no more than +20 ° C.
Soil for planting: Pelargonium PAC White Pearl (Pak White Pearl) is quite demanding on the soil. The ideal solution is unused, loose soil with good drainage. For young plants without a formed root system, light soil is more suitable, therefore sand and peat, vermiculite and perlite are added to the composition. The soil for planting should be sufficiently fertile and well-drained. Do not plant pelargonium in loamy and clayey soils.
Preparation for winter: In the fall, the plant pot is placed in a cool and dimly lit place. For this, a southern or northern window sill in a house / apartment is quite suitable, since there is diffused sunlight there. And to make up for the lack of light at this time, you can use fluorescent lamps. The optimal daylight hours are 12 hours.
Planting Site: The ideal location in the PAC White Pearl Pelargonium Garden would be sunny areas. However, even in partial shade, it is able to fully develop and bloom profusely throughout the season.
Propagation of pelargonium by cuttings: You need to prepare a sharp knife or scalpel, disinfect it with alcohol. In no case should you use a blunt instrument, as this is fraught with damage to the tissues of the cuttings and slowing down the growth of future roots.Cuttings are cut from shoots directed at right angles to the main one, while at least 3 leaves should grow on them. For tall varieties of geranium, the length of the cuttings should be about 5-7 cm, for undersized and miniature species - 2.5-4 cm. The cut is carried out at right angles to the stem.
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Features of flowering plants
In order for pelargonium to please with regular flowering, you need to follow the basic rules for caring for it:
- regularly remove dried inflorescences and leaves;
- carry out formative pruning and pinching of the bush;
- protect geraniums from drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations;
- if flowers of a regular shape appear (with fully opened buds), they should be removed.
A period of activity and rest
The time of active growth in geraniums occurs at the beginning of March and lasts until autumn. During the laying of the buds, nitrogen complexes of fertilizers must be applied. Potassium-phosphorus dressings are added for the flowering period.
The dormant period occurs in the winter. During this time period, no fertilizing is applied, and the temperature in the room where the plant stands is lowered to 15 ° C.
Types and shape of flowers
Flowers of tulip pelargonium differ in a variety of colors, but their shape is not too different.
Usually it is a bud with dense petals twisted inward, which resembles a rosebud or a barrel. Most of all similarities are with tulip flowers.
How to care for such a flower
- Lighting. It should be bright, but diffused (shade the flower at least on a hot summer afternoon). If the plant grows in the shade, it will stretch out ugly, "looking for" light, moreover, it can throw off the buds, or even refuse to tie them altogether.
- Temperature. Royal geraniums love warmth. You can keep it on a closed balcony, but not take it out into the open or into the garden, since the flower is very sensitive to drafts.
- Watering. Once the top of the soil is dry (in summer), pour plenty of water into the pot. Although pelargonium will not die if it "dries up" a little, but loves frequent watering.
- Spraying. If the air is dry, it is better to irrigate the flower from a spray bottle. But so that after that the sun does not fall on the leaves, otherwise the case will end in a burn (dew drops dangerously refract light, increasing its intensity). So spray your pet in the evening. If you do not spray the flower in the heat, aphids and other pests can start on the leaves, which are difficult to remove.
- Circumcision. As with petunias, you need to cut off dried leaves and limp flowers from pelargonium all the time.
- Nutrition. This is a must if you expect a “nodding” flowering of your varietal beauty. Mineral complex fertilizer for decorative flowering flowerpots will suit you. Apply it in the spring and summer.
Winter rest is the key to the flowering of pelargonium
The plant must be kept at a low (from 10 to 12, maximum 15 degrees) temperature.
Since geranium hardly grows in the cold, which means that it "uses" less water, reduce watering and pour very little water into the soil.
But take care of the lighting of the flower - keep it all on the same window, and if it seems to you that there is not enough light for the plant, transfer the geranium to the room where the light bulb is most often lit. Supplementing with a phytolamp can also be relevant.
It is necessary to completely abandon dressings, not giving them in autumn and winter.
Reproduction
Pelargonium is propagated by cuttings or planting seeds.
Cuttings
Cuttings can be harvested from early spring to autumn. Flowering time occurs in 16-20 weeks, depending on the variety. It is not recommended to take cuttings from dormant plants (until the end of January).
For reproduction, shoots 6-7 cm long with three leaves are harvested and the cut is dried in air for several hours. For dwarf varieties, cuttings 2.5-3 cm long are suitable.To do this, make a small cut at an acute angle, and remove the lower leaves.In order for the pelargonium to take root well, you can use root-stimulating preparations, with which you need to lightly powder the cut and plant it in prepared pots.
You do not need to cover the cuttings. At a temperature of 20-22 degrees and regular watering, young pelargoniums will soon grow. Usually, the rooting process takes from two weeks to a month, depending on the variety. When watering, you need to try to prevent water from getting on the leaves and stem, in order to avoid diseases. As soon as the cuttings have grown, they will need to be transplanted into separate pots with a special soil mixture recommended for pelargonium.
Seed propagation
The recommended time for sowing seeds is the end of January - February. Some gardeners have planted before. But in this case, additional lighting is required, since the natural daylight hours are still too short, and the seedlings can stretch out a lot.
The seeds are sown in a container with moistened soil and sprinkled with a thin layer (approximately 2-3mm) of the soil mixture. The optimum temperature for seedlings is 20-22 degrees.
Pelargonium seeds can also be sown in individual plastic or peat cups, 1-2 pcs. In this case, picking is not required. The seed container should be placed in a warm, bright place. Seedlings appear in 5-10 days.
In order to prevent the seedlings from stretching, it is better to provide additional lighting. Phytolamps have proven themselves very well, thanks to which a strong strong seedling is obtained. Pinching over the fifth leaf is done in order to get a compact and lush pelargonium bush. For the same reason, it is recommended to pinch the flower every 2-3 months. If the seeds were sown in a common container, the pick is made after the appearance of the real first leaf.
When propagated by seeds, the flowering period occurs after about six months.
Description
To begin with, it should be noted that zonal pelargonium is mistakenly called geranium by many growers. In fact, a group of plants under this name belongs to a separate genus Pelargonium, which, in turn, belongs to the Geranium family. Another independent genus belongs to the same family - Geranium (Zhuravelnik), which has about 400 varieties of dwarf shrubs and shrubs, visually little similar to the well-known indoor pelargonium. However, disregarding this fact, most flower growers still call the zonal pelargonium "geranium", considering this name to be simpler and more convenient.
Zonal pelargonium is an extensive group of perennial dwarf shrubs, the trunks of which become woody with age and are covered with a rough beige-brown bark. Depending on the varietal characteristics of the plant, its height can reach 15 centimeters (miniature varieties) and one and a half meters.
Most indoor and garden pelargoniums have an erect trunk, branched and strong shoots. Varietal groups are also known, representatives of which have creeping shoots and are grown as ampelous plants.
The leaves of the zonal pelargonium have a regular rounded shape, slightly dissected and wavy edges. A characteristic feature of the color of the leaves is the presence of a zone of dark brown, yellowish or dark green tint on the leaf blade. The saturation of the pattern on the leaf plates depends on the varietal characteristics of the plant, as well as on its keeping conditions.
To date, breeders have bred pelargonium varieties with simple, semi-double and double flowers. The palette of their colors is unusually wide and varied. Depending on the variety, the color of pelargonium flowers can be two-color or monochromatic (milky white, pale or deep pink, coral, orange, peach, carmine red, dark ruby). There are even varieties with flowers of a unique lilac-amethyst color ("Blue blood").
One of the striking features of zonal pelargoniums is their specific tart aroma. It is noteworthy that most of these plants smell not only of leaves, but also flowers. Some varieties of pelargonium have pleasant fruity and herbaceous aromas.
Reproduction
This process can be carried out by cuttings, leaf blades or seeds.
Sheet
It is necessary to take a leaf of pelargonium, it does not matter if it is with or without a petiole. The cut must be done with a very sharp knife, and the places of the cuts must be treated with ash or a growth stimulator
After that, the leaf must be placed in the soil prepared in advance and covered with a jar. After the roots appear, it can be removed, and the plant can be transplanted to a permanent place.
Cuttings
To use this breeding option, an adult plant must be well watered and fed before that. When many young stems appear, cuttings can be cut. They must have at least two buds. Then they must be placed in a container of water or treated with a growth stimulant and immediately planted in the ground. When the roots appear, young plants can be transplanted into separate flowerpots.
Seeds
You can use this option, but it will not be as productive as the previous ones.
First you need to purchase seeds, and then mix with a small amount of sand and sow in prepared soil. You should not sprinkle them. Cover the top with glass or foil. After emergence, it can be removed.
Summing up, we can say that such a beautiful plant as pink pelargonium can become a real masterpiece in any interior. The main thing is to provide her with proper care, and she will delight with beautiful and varied flowers for more than one month.
For more information on breeding pelargonium, see below.
Care
Consider the main features of caring for pelargonium Prince Gustav.
Air humidity
Pelargonium of this variety is not too picky in this regard. Air humidity does not matter for Prince Gustav, therefore, it is enough only to air the room where the flower is located from time to time.
Watering
The plant needs regular, but not too abundant watering. Frequent and abundant watering of this pelargonium is not beneficial, since it causes rotting of its roots and stems. Therefore, it is recommended to water only after the top layer of the potted substrate has dried. It is advisable to check the soil moisture level with your finger in advance in order to prevent waterlogging.
As for the temperature of the water, it should be warm or cool, but not cold.
It is also important to water the plant with soft water without lime admixture, therefore, it is recommended to defend tap water for a day.
Top dressing
ATTENTION! A plant needs a lot of nutrients for full and lush flowering. It is recommended to use mineral complexes intended for geraniums and pelargoniums - balanced compositions will suit the plant in the best way.
In the spring, it is important to add nitrogenous fertilizers to the soil so that the plant turns green more luxuriantly.
But before flowering, it is necessary to abandon nitrogenous compounds and switch to potassium-phosphorus ones: this measure will help pelargonium flourish more magnificently
In the spring, it is important to add nitrogenous fertilizers to the soil so that the plant turns green more luxuriantly. But before flowering, it is necessary to abandon nitrogenous compounds and switch to potassium-phosphorus ones: this measure will help pelargonium flourish more magnificently
Pruning
Regular pruning and pinching of the flower is recommended to form a dense and compact bush. It is better to carry out the pruning procedure in the fall, and pinching requires young shoots as they grow.
Reproduction
Note that the bush is able to maintain its decorative effect for two to five years, after which it is recommended to replace it with a more recent specimen.A full-fledged plant from the cuttings will grow in about a year - so take care of the "growing shift" in advance.
The plant propagates by cuttings. To carry out this procedure correctly, it is recommended to cut the stalk in February-March: use the apical part of the mother plant.
Tip: cut cuttings from the strongest and healthiest bushes: their offspring will be the most resilient. The size of the cut cutting should be about 2.5-3 cm.
Then the cut must be dried for several minutes and, without dipping into the water, immediately planted in the prepared loose nutritious soil. Do not cover with anything on top, so as not to create a greenhouse effect and not to overmoisten the plant. The container must be placed in a sunny, bright place - and in about a month you will already have a young dwarf pelargonium. Cuttings root in the best way at a temperature of + 20 + 22 degrees and with regular watering
After the flower has taken root, and 8-10 leaves have formed on it, the first pinching is carried out. The procedure will help the plant grow in breadth and become compact. The next pinching is carried out already on the side shoots, when, in turn, there will be 8-10 leaves on them. And, although cuttings planted in spring can bloom already in the same summer, in the first year, experienced gardeners recommend that all efforts be directed to the formation of the correct compact bush - and then the next year the flowering will be simply amazing.
Pelargonium should not be propagated in winter, since at this time the plant is in hibernation, all processes in it are inactive, the cutting may not take root at all.
Our experts have prepared for you a number of other articles with photos and descriptions, as well as information about the nuances of growing and caring for ampelous, fragrant, variegated, ivy, tulip, double, rosewood and zonal pelargonium.
Diseases and pests
Most often, Pelargonium is affected by gray rot, as well as stem and root rot. The stems and leaves of pelargonium turn yellow, become covered with a gray bloom, wither, the flowers become spotty. This fungal disease develops due to excessive watering and humidity, as well as excessive feeding with nitrogenous fertilizers. It is necessary to cut the poly, remove the affected leaves, stop feeding, treat the plant with systemic fungicidal preparations (Vitaros, Fundahol, Rovrald, Ridomil-Gold).
- Verticellous wilting begins with excessive watering: the fungus begins to multiply in the soil and gradually covers the entire plant. Here it is enough to treat the flower with fungicides and transplant it into drier soil into a new pot.
- Late blight is also a fungal disease, and the opinions of flower growers about the possibility of its cure differ. Some recommend replacing the plant, some manage to achieve its cure at an early stage of the disease with the help of Previkur and Profit-Gold preparations.
- A disease called black leg affects the root of pelargonium. In this case, treatment is often useless, since the fungus of this species is not very sensitive to fungicides.
- Rust is another disease of pelargonium, which is caused by waterlogging of the soil and air. The leaves of the plant are covered with red spots, and on the reverse side - with convex foci of fungal infection. The plant is treated with fungicides and cleaned of the affected parts.
- Aphids are the most common pest. Colonies of small spiders settle on stems, flowers, under the leaves of pelargonium. They can appear on any plant. You can fight aphids by treating them with soapy water and special insecticides, and it is better to remove heavily damaged parts of the plant. From folk remedies for aphids, tincture of garlic or onion helps.
- Mites appear and begin to multiply on the plant when watering is insufficient and the air temperature is too high.To destroy them, a soap solution, mineral oil or special preparations for ticks are used.
- The whitefly usually hides on the underside of pelargonium leaves, and yellowing of the leaves and sticky spots on them indicate its appearance. You can destroy the whitefly with karbofos or its analogues, as well as with the help of sticky traps.
Important! During the period of treatment, the diseased plant must be isolated from others, since infections and pests very easily take over new plants, and an epidemic may begin in your flower garden.
Florist tips
Royal Pelargonium is the most capricious and demanding species, and often refuses to bloom. One of the reasons experts say is too large a pot. The plant begins to abundantly build up green mass and spends all its energy on the formation of new leaves and development of roots. An equally common reason for the refusal of geraniums from flowering is the lack of a dormant period.
It is quite simple to fix this situation. To do this, you need to completely stop all fertilizing, starting in September, and in early November, take the plant to a cool room and reduce watering. Another reason for the refusal of geraniums from flowering can be the presence of fungal diseases. A diseased plant spends too much energy fighting infection and is unable to form new buds.
The cessation of flowering can also be caused by frequent transplants of the bush. Royal geraniums do not like changing places, so they may react in this way. If the plant still bloomed, but the buds and peduncles fall off too quickly, then the matter is most likely in the dry air of the room. To increase the humidity, it is recommended to use electric humidifiers or place pallets with wet pebbles in the immediate vicinity of the flower. If all conditions are strictly observed, and pelargonium still refuses to bloom, then the reason may lie in the chemical composition of the substrate. So, an excessive nitrogen content leads to the formation of a beautiful and strong, but at the same time poorly flowering bush, and excessive acidity generally deprives the plant of color.
Thus, in order to properly grow a royal geranium, you need to work hard. But in the future, the plant will delight others with its magnificent flowering and brightness of colors.
For tips on caring for king geraniums, see the video below.
