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Reproduction
Like other skumpia tanneries, Royal purple supports both seed and vegetative propagation. But with generative planting, germination is extremely low, and it takes about 1 year to wait for the appearance of new shoots. Natural stratification can be used to speed up this process. Seeds are planted in open ground in the fall, after piercing the shell, the sowing depth is 2 cm. This approach provides good acclimatization of the resulting plants, but with a germination rate of 30%, it is quite difficult to get viable shoots.
When choosing vegetative propagation, it is recommended to use cuttings or the formation of layers. They give a good survival rate, retain all the characteristics of the parent variety. To achieve rooting, the layer must be bent to the surface of the earth, cut the bark at the base, and secured in a prepared shallow trench. The place of immersion in the soil is lightly sprinkled, no special care is needed until the roots form. After rooting, you can separate the young bush, transplant it to a permanent place.
Cuttings in leather skumpia are carried out in the summer, regardless of the variety. Strong shoots of 1 year are chosen from the plant, a part about 10 cm long and with 2 leaves is cut out. Prepared cuttings are recommended to be kept for at least 12 hours in "Heteroauxin", "Kornevin", then placed in a mini-greenhouse. Before rooting, plants need the most abundant watering, at least 3 times a day. In the second year, you can plant established cuttings in open ground.
How to plant amaryllis
Planting amaryllis at home photo
Pot selection
Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It should be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can overturn itself. In addition, during care, a light pot is more likely to hurt than a massive one.
The size of the vessel is selected based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. This means that it should be up to 3-5 cm from it to all the walls. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and tapers gradually upward.
Next, go to the pot material. It is best to use unglazed ceramics. It will best help nourish the roots of the flower with oxygen.
Soil preparation
It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.
Next, go to the choice of soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs there.But any experienced florist will give up this venture and go to prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: for this, it is doused with strong boiling water or kept over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.
The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:
- turf, garden land and river sand in equal parts and half of humus;
- turf, garden land, humus, river sand and peat in equal parts;
- humus, sod land and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 2.
At the bottom, it is necessary to fill a drainage with a thickness of 2-3 cm. To do this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, available brick chips, small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drain is mixed with the substrate and spread over the surface of the pot. Also, a large hole is made in it to drain water.
Drainage from above is covered with sand also 2-3 cm in order to additionally be safe from root rot due to water accumulation.
Planting amaryllis step by step
Planting indoor amaryllis photo
To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and strong bulbs with a smooth surface that have reasonably good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of rotting and mildew, stains. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet odor, it is also not worth picking.
- The bulbs are cleaned of all bad scales that are black to beige and reach tissues that are pure white or light green. After that, the bulb is treated with potassium permanganate, immersed in its pink solution for half an hour. If permanganate is not available, you can choose another fungicide, such as Bordeaux liquid.
- When the processing of the planting material is completed, it is laid out to dry for 12-24 hours. If there are any spots in the bulbs that may be affected by diseases, they are not removed. For this, there are drugs such as Maxim, brilliant green, Fitosporin, with which the affected areas are treated, after which the bulb is dried.
- Next, half of the substrate is poured into a pre-prepared pot.
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The bulb is placed in the ground with a blunt end and then soil is poured so that about half or a third of the bulb in height remains above the surface.
- After that, the soil is pressed with palms, mulched at will with small stones, watered with warm water and set the plant to its permanent habitat.
Planting and growing rules
Red Potentilla is planted in spring, when the snow has "melted" and the soil has warmed up. Also, the plant is transplanted in the first half of autumn, before the onset of frost.
The fact is that under the influence of direct rays of the sun, a bright red hue will lose its saturation and become dull.
The process of planting Potentilla itself is simple.
- We dig a planting hole 50-60 cm deep. For group planting, the distance between seedlings should be within 30-40 cm.
- Lay out a drainage layer on the very bottom of the pit. Broken brick or small pebbles will do.
- Mix the soil with sand and mineral fertilizer, filling the hole with this mixture.
- We plant a seedling and sprinkle it with earth. The root part should be flush with the soil surface.
- Water the plant abundantly and do not forget about mulching. For these purposes, dry foliage, sawdust or straw are suitable.
Red cinquefoil propagates by cuttings, dividing a bush or using seeds.
Important points for caring for black elderberry varieties for the Moscow region
When growing black elderberry, follow certain rules:
- In spring, young and skeletal shoots with branches should be treated with garden broth, lime or potassium permanganate solution. This is necessary so that the bark on large shoots of culture does not crack from night frosts.
- After the air temperature is consistently warm (March month), carry out pruning, creating the desired shape, removing excessive bush density, dead, unwanted shoots and branches. Be sure to treat the branches where the branches are cut (for disinfection) with Bordeaux liquid (1% concentration).
- During flowering and fruit formation, the crop should be fed and watered regularly. It reacts well to urea, compost and nitrogenous fertilizers.
- After the plant has faded, the processing of the branches should be repeated. This manipulation is necessary for the plant to prevent the development of diseases (namely, powdery mildew) or damage to the shrub by insects.
- The soil should be loosened and the plant should be watered regularly, while strictly observing so that the roots are not accidentally touched. You need to water in such an amount of water so that it does not stagnate in the hole. In dry summer, watering is carried out once a week. Each plant will require up to 10 liters of settled water.
- If you have planted an elderberry on nutritious soil, then you do not need to additionally feed it. If not, feed the plant at least twice a season with organics. The first is in the spring, the second, if necessary, in the summer.
- Until the onset of the first night frosts, the near-stem sections of the bushes will need to be insulated using ordinary compost or fallen leaves. In winter, fallen snow will serve as a good insulation; it will need to be manually thrown up to the plantings.
Caring for an elderberry is not at all difficult, but mandatory - both the health and beauty of the shrub depend on it.
