The most common diseases and pests of astilbe

Features of the manifestation of flower diseases and methods of dealing with them

For an annual aster, the most dangerous are jaundice and fusarium wilting. But, in addition to such diseases, flowers can suffer from other diseases, no less serious

It is important to know what to do with such diseases in order to save the plant, to give it the opportunity to bloom further.

Fusarium wilt control

When asters become infected with fusarium wilt, they stop growing, the stem cracks, and the leaves turn brown and wither. After a while, the plant dries up completely and dies.

If flowers are planted in the same place, the infection affects more and more asters. The infection multiplies rapidly at temperatures above twenty degrees Celsius, especially with active growth and bud formation

Therefore, when asters are damaged by a fungus, it is important to plant them next time in another place of the site.

Fungal lesions multiply under the following conditions:

• When fertilizing the soil with manure;
• With an excess of moisture and acidity in the soil;
• With an excessive amount of nitrogen in the ground;
• In too dense thickets;
• With excessive watering or lack of water.

Not only asters suffer from fusarium, but also gladioli, tulips, cabbage, beets.

It is important to remember that asters require fertile, moderately moist and well-cultivated soil. After you have fertilized the land with organic fertilizers, you should not immediately plant flowers in it.

Try to plant asters in a different place every year.

In order to protect flowers from the appearance of fusarium wilting, it is important to balance them with useful substances, feed them in a timely manner with special fertilizers, water them correctly, and loosen and loosen the soil if necessary. When fertilizing flowers, add substances to mineral fertilizers that increase the resistance of plants to diseases.

Blackfoot fight

If the leaves have begun to blacken and wilt, the flowers may have suffered from a fungal disease called black leg. Aster seedlings turn black, leaves wither, roots rot and die after a while.

To successfully defeat a fungal infection, it is recommended:

1. Carry out early picking of seedlings;
2. Remove diseased plants;
3. To disinfect the soil with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate;
4. Sprinkle sand over the soil;
5. Disinfect everything related to the dilution of asters with chlorine or vitriol solution.

To destroy the spores of a fungal infection, the soil can be watered with bulbous infusion. To do this, pour a liter of water with onion scales (20 grams). Let stand for 24 hours. Strain and spray the plants with the resulting product three times a day every six days.

Rust control on plants

In the middle of summer, the underside of the leaves is covered with swellings filled with spores of summer fruiting. After a while, the leaves begin to dry out. In autumn, they are covered with orange pads, inside of which brown deposits accumulate.To avoid rust on the leaves of asters, it is recommended to spray them with Bordeaux liquid, ground gray mixed with lime. If the plant still gets rusty, keep spraying it with Bordeaux liquid every week.

Fight jaundice

The virus first of all infects the leaf plates in the area of ​​the veins. After a while, it spreads over all the leaves. Flowers grow slowly, leaves turn light, buds turn green

Since jaundice is carried by cicadas and aphids, it is important to carry out pest control to save flowers.You can also spray flowers with actellik, pyrethrum

Plants affected by the virus must be pulled out and burned.

Fight against septoria

With this disease, the leaves of asters are covered with brown spots. When buds are tied, the lower leaves are affected by light brown spots of various shapes. When the flowers begin to bloom, the leaves dry out. Very often, the disease develops during a warm, humid summer. Excessive nitrogen fertilization of the soil, dense planting of flowers leads to it.

To cure asters from septoria, it is recommended to spray them with Bordeaux liquid or copper oxychloride. This should be done three times every two weeks.

Why do garden geranium leaves curl?

Garden geranium differs from its home relative in carved foliage and larger flowers. She tolerates drought well and is not afraid of frost. But even such an unpretentious plant sometimes gets sick. If geranium leaves begin to turn yellow and curl, there may be several reasons:

• lack of lighting;
• insufficient watering;
• damage to aphids, spider mites or whiteflies;
• the presence of fungal diseases.

As you can see, the reasons are quite common. To get rid of pests, spray the plants with an infusion of pharmacy chamomile or tobacco dust. And if powdery mildew and brown spot appear, urgently treat the garden geranium with biofungicides (Fitosporin, Baktofit, etc.).

Common diseases

With proper care and adherence to certain rules, a houseplant will delight you with its beauty all year round. Unfortunately, proper care is not a 100% guarantee that the flower will never get sick. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the external changes of your favorite plant, which will allow you to solve the problem in a timely manner.

Lovers of this indoor plant are often faced with the fact that the flower has dropped its leaves, there are several reasons for this. The first is that the room is too hot and the humidity is low.

The second reason may be that the flower is cold. If the temperature is below +16 degrees, then the plant will begin to gradually shed its leaves. In addition, improper watering may be the reason. Due to excessive moisture in the soil, in the event of stagnation of water in a pot or in a pan, the plant will also rapidly get rid of the leaves.

In the event that the leaves of a favorite plant become lighter, dull or turn yellow, then this indicates that the flower needs additional feeding. You do not need to do anything special to heal the plant. As a rule, complex fertilization can solve this problem. Try to feed 3 times a month.

In this case, it is important to observe equal intervals between dressings. Remember that the shefflera is especially in need of feeding from April to September. If the upper leaves begin to fade a little, then this indicates a lack of light.

It is easy to get rid of this problem, you just need to find a comfortable place for the flower.

If the upper leaves begin to fade a little, then this indicates a lack of light. It is easy to get rid of this problem, you just need to find a comfortable place for the flower.

It is important to remember that this species must be protected from direct sunlight, but it is also impossible to grow it in the shade.

Sometimes on the leaves Shefflers start to appear brown spots, as a result of which the leaves darken strongly, sometimes completely blacken, and the flower begins to die. Correct care will help to save the situation. This problem arises due to the fact that the roots of a house plant begin to gradually rot due to too much watering.

Most often, beginner growers encounter such a problem in the cold season, since from mid-autumn the number and volume of watering should be reduced.

In addition, it is important to monitor the temperature of the water, as too cold water negatively affects the health of the plant's root system.It is important and timely to loosen the soil so that the roots of the flower receive a sufficient amount of oxygen. In order to save rotting roots, you will have to carry out a simple healing procedure.

It is necessary to rinse the roots of your favorite plant with a special antifungal agent. It can be easily found in any flower shop. Due to constant drafts and a sharp temperature drop, the leaves of this plant begin to darken at the edges. If you see that the edges of the leaves have dried up, become darker, then move the plant to a more comfortable environment. Otherwise, the flower simply dies

In order to save rotting roots, you will have to carry out a simple healing procedure. It is necessary to rinse the roots of your favorite plant with a special antifungal agent. It can be easily found in any flower shop. Due to constant drafts and a sharp temperature drop, the leaves of this plant begin to darken at the edges. If you see that the edges of the leaves have dried up, become darker, then move the plant to a more comfortable environment. Otherwise, the flower simply dies.

If you notice that the plant gradually withers, and the edges of the leaves become dry and dark, then this indicates that the flower is not receiving enough moisture. Be sure to follow the watering regime. The soil should be largely dry, and if the land is completely dry, then this already negatively affects the health of the sheffler. In addition, during the hot period, the plant needs frequent and regular spraying. Otherwise, due to a lack of moisture, the leaves will begin to dry, curl and fall off.

If you notice that a slight blackness has appeared on the stems of the flower, then this also indicates that you are watering the plant too abundantly. The result is mold and mildew. In this case, you should urgently check the root system for rot. In addition, you should cut off the tops of the spoiled stems and treat the plant with a special antifungal agent.

Autumn care. Preparing for winter

Pruning

Depending on the variety, astilba has different flowering times. Some plants bloom as early as June, others not earlier than mid-summer, and others, late flowering, at the end of August. With the onset of autumn cold weather, the plant stops blooming, but many gardeners are in no hurry to cut it. For even a faded plant surprisingly beautifully and exquisitely complements its dacha plantings with its semi-dry peduncles until late autumn.

It is important! Let's move on to removing the aerial part of the plant. It can be produced using a well-known country tool - a secateurs

In order not to harm the plant and not infect it with fungal and other diseases, garden shears should be disinfected first. This can be done by lowering the instrument for twenty to thirty minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate. It will be great if the grower can work the tool from bush to bush. So it will reduce the risk of transferring fungal diseases from plant to plant.

How to prune correctly? First, the entire aerial part of the plant should be completely removed. Secondly, it is necessary follow upso that young kidneys are not exposed

It is important to know that the new buds of astilba are located in the upper part of the rhizome. Therefore, after pruning, you should carefully spud the bushes, and also mulch.

Bushes should be spud to a height of three to four centimeters.

Mulching

In order to protect the root system of the plant, as well as young buds, it is necessary to cover the soil of the astilba district with mulch. Dry sawdust, peat or rotted manure are perfect as an overhead shelter. Sometimes gardeners use shredded tree bark as mulch. Mulching protects both young buds and adventitious roots.

Fertilizer

In preparation for the winter cold, astilbe should be fertilized.This will allow the plant to survive the winter safely and not lose its decorative effect. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are perfect. It will be enough to add no more than twenty grams of top dressing for each bush.

In addition to potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, it is desirable to add humus to the soil. Astilba prefers to grow in nutrient-rich soils. Therefore, it will be great if the summer resident, before the first frosts come, enriches the land with organic matter. Do not worry that the plant will grow, because rotted manure will decompose slowly, and only by the onset of the spring thaw can the plant be used as an additional source of energy.

Shelter

Astilba is a surprisingly cold-resistant plant, so if a summer resident grows it in the middle lane, then you don't have to worry about shelter. It will be enough just to mulch the plantings well. However, the situation is different if we are talking about four-five-year-old plants. Weakened, with a gradually growing bare rhizome, astilbe run the risk of not surviving the cold. Some gardeners choose classic shelter options for their protection: spruce branches, dry leaves, sawdust, hay. The main thing is to use natural materials so as not to create a greenhouse effect for plants.

It is very important to protect the bushes from the ingress of excess water, which can subsequently cause the death of the perennial.

Gardeners appreciate astilba for its long flowering, unusual appearance, shade tolerance and the ability to tolerate waterlogged soil. The plant is beautiful not only during flowering. Its openwork leaves on reddish petioles are decorative from spring to late autumn.

The crop is suitable for cutting and forcing. Lush panicles of astilba are an unsurpassed decoration for bouquets and flower baskets.

Why do Astilba leaves curl, wither and dry?

One of the important advantages when planting astilba in the garden is that it is highly resistant to the effects of various pests and the development of diseases. Most pests live in the natural areas of Astilbe, so they are not found in our area. However, this plant is also susceptible to the development of certain diseases and the effects of parasites. Occasionally, on the leaves of a perennial flowering shrub, you can see such pests:

Pennitsa. This parasite settles in the leaf axils. Pennitsa larvae feed on Astilbe juice. As a result of the activity of the parasite, the leaves of Astilba curl and wrinkle, become covered with yellow spots. You can recognize the defeat of a plant by this parasite by the presence of white foamy secretions on the leaves. It is in these secretions that the penny larvae are located. This parasite is dangerous not only because Astilba leaves curl and dry, but the penny is also a carrier of serious viral and phytoplasmic diseases, which often lead to the death of the plant. You can get rid of this pest by treating affected plants with substances such as aktara, mospilan, confidor, rogor, karbofos.

Strawberry nematode. This is another reason why Astilba leaves curl, become covered with brown and yellow spots. The strawberry nematode parasitizes not only the leaves, but also the buds and flowers. As a result of the activity of the pest, the growth of the shrub slows down significantly. A diseased plant can infect healthy specimens, so it is removed from the garden area.

Gall nematode. This pest parasitizes on astilbe rhizomes. Outwardly, the disease manifests itself as small growths on the roots. Infected plants do not develop well, their growth is slowed down, they stop blooming and may even die. Sick astilba is a source of reproduction of the parasite, therefore it is removed, and the site is treated with phytoverm.

Fusarium, or root rot, is a fairly common disease that affects many flowering plants.With the development of fusarium in astilba, the leaves first wither, then curl, turn yellow, dry out and fall off. The roots are also affected, they rot. As a rule, such a fungus occurs as a result of increased soil moisture. You can also notice the damage to the plant by other signs - the affected areas are covered with a grayish-white bloom. The soil infected with this fungus should be treated with the fungicide Fundazol, this should be done immediately after the first signs of the disease are detected.

Growing astilba

Up to twenty varieties belong to the genus of culture. Nearly ten species have found widespread use, with which breeders are constantly experimenting, hybrid forms and varieties are obtained by crossing. Astilba hybrids are able to develop well, grow in semi-shaded and not too damp places.

Perennial is resistant to low winter temperatures, has high winter hardiness. Begins flowering in early July. Thanks to lush dense inflorescences and delicate foliage, the plant goes well with many flower crops.

Astilba in the garden

Almost all summer, flower bushes adorn the site with their flowering. Astilba looks especially colorful in the shady corners of the garden or on the banks of an artificial reservoir lined with decorative stones. Sometimes they acquire varieties of earlier flowering. Such species, with their natural splendor and beauty, look great even without flowers.

The color scale of the culture is distinguished by its diversity. In summer, on flower beds, you can observe lushly growing astilbe bushes with all kinds of inflorescence colors. Even an overly fastidious grower will be able to choose the ideal variety for his plantings.

Bred new varieties stand out with too bright color palette. Such hybrids are capable of growing in sunny outdoor areas. It should only be taken into account. Astilba bushes bloom indescribably colorful, but the duration of the flowering period is very short. The varieties also need regular moistening and mulching of the soil.

Traditional types of flower culture are completely undemanding.

But some attention and participation in development is still needed. Taking care of the plant is not difficult

When all the care requirements are met, then diseases and pests of astilbe do not threaten an invasion. To keep your garden decoration in a healthy blooming state, you need to be aware of all possible pests and infections.

What to do if petunia leaves curl

The question of why petunia leaves curl is asked by many growers at the height of the flowering of this popular annual. Delicate petunia leaves suffer from improper agricultural techniques and disease. In the first case, the plants can be saved and the leaf will be leveled, in the second, in the presence of a virus, it is often impossible to save the flower. This problem is especially relevant. for seedlings of petunias, which is sensitive to unfavorable external factors.

There are many factors that lead to defects in the sheet plate. Usually, novice florists are interested in why the leaves of petunia seedlings curl. But some of the reasons are relevant and for adult plants... For convenience, we have placed them in a table.

If the soil is watered too much after a drought, the leaves of the petunia will immediately curl from the stress.

Pests and diseases of petunias (photos, signs and control measures)
Unfortunately, even such a widespread plant as petunia is defenseless against diseases and pests. But they can be successfully defeated.

Care and cultivation of astilba

Flower care consists of loosening, weeding, watering, mulching the soil. It is better to cut out faded panicles so that they do not set seeds - this will preserve the strength in the plant for preparation for wintering.

Often the companion of astilba is the rhizome weed runny, which strongly oppresses cultivated plants.

During care, it is important to choose the rhizomes of the dream from the soil, trying not to damage the underground part of the astilba

In autumn, at the base of the shoot formed in the current year, several buds are formed, from which rosettes of leaves will develop. The next year, flower stalks will appear from the outlets. From the small buds located on the stem below, rosette leaves will develop only the next year. So astilba annually rises above the ground by 3-5 cm.Therefore, the plant must be sprinkled with fertile soil every year.

Transfer

Astilba bush can not be transplanted for an average of 5 years. Then it needs to be dug up and divided or thinned:

1. Separate the rhizome part of the bush with a shovel.
2. Powder the cuts with wood ash.
3. Fill the hole in the ground with fresh soil.

Watering

Astilba loves watering. The topsoil must be kept moist at all times, as young roots can only develop in moist soil. The flower is watered at least once a week, in hot weather - 2 times a week. Astilba is not afraid of fungal diseases, so it can be watered both under the root and by sprinkling.

Even after a short-term drying out of the soil, the leaves wither, the inflorescences become smaller and the astilbe takes on a sloppy look. To prevent this from happening, astilba is mulched with any crushed organic material: sawdust bark, dry leaves. The best compost mulch is not only a covering material, but also a concentrated organic fertilizing that Astilba loves.

Fertilizers and feeding

The main fertilizers are applied even when planting astilba. The flower loves organics. Up to a liter of humus must be added to the planting hole and mixed well with the ground.

Potash and phosphorus mineral compositions are used for dressing - they increase the frost resistance of the plant. For each bush, 20-25 g of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer is applied. In the spring, to accelerate the regrowth of leaves, the plants are fed once with a solution of urea in a dosage of a teaspoon of granules per 5 liters of water.

Cherry moniliosis

Moniliosis or monilial burn is caused by the ascomycete Monilia cinerea, a fungus that infects cherries, usually during flowering. The fungus penetrates through damage to the bark of the tree. Inexperienced gardeners, faced with this disease, may think that the cherry was damaged by frost.

The disease can be recognized by the following signs, which usually appear 15 days after infection:

• leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off;
• inflorescences turn brown, then dry up;
• small white swellings with fungal spores form on the petioles;
• fruits are deformed, covered with white convex dots;
• berries turn brown and mummified;
• young shoots look as if burnt by fire.

Best of all, the infection spreads at a humidity of 95-100% and an air temperature of about + 20 ° C.

What to do for treatment and prevention

In order to detect the disease in time and begin to fight the infection, cherry trees must be regularly examined.

Important! You can accurately determine moniliosis by cutting a diseased branch. If black rings are visible, the diagnosis is correct .. The fungus hibernates in the aboveground parts of trees, and with the arrival of spring, its spores are carried by precipitation, wind, insects

The fungus hibernates in the aboveground parts of trees, and with the arrival of spring, its spores are carried by precipitation, wind, and insects.

In autumn, the trunk and skeletal branches are whitewashed with lime. To prevent the spread of the fungus in the garden, diseased branches are cut off, then burned. The same must be done with fruits infected with the fungus.

Monilial cherry burn

Prevention measures for moniliosis:

• keeping the distance between trees when laying a cherry orchard;
• using healthy seedlings obtained from specialized orchards or from trusted suppliers;
• covering up frost holes, as well as wounds resulting from pruning, since through them fungus can easily penetrate into the tissue of the tree;
• regular inspection of the garden in order to remove diseased parts of the plant;
• using clean trimming tools;
• control of pests, which are often carriers of fungal spores;
• digging up the soil at the roots;
• timely application of the necessary fertilizers;
• processing cherries before flowering with Bordeaux liquid or mycosan;
• selection of varieties resistant to moniliosis, for example: Turgenevka, Shokoladnitsa, Nochka, Brunetka, Minx.

If the branches of cherries are drying due to moniliosis, you can use such a popular method of fighting the fungus as treating trees with a solution of urea. To process one bush, 0.5 kg of urea is diluted in 5 liters of water, for better adhesion, soap is added to the solution.