Spruce "misty blue": description, planting and care, breeding features

Diseases and pests

Despite the fact that such phlox are unassuming, and actually grow by themselves, sometimes you have to save them from various diseases. Here are the most common ones.

1. Variegatedness. It appears during the flowering period of the plant. Light stripes begin to appear on the petals. In this case, the plant must be dug up and then burned until the rest of the bushes are infected.
2. Powdery mildew. This disease most often appears due to high humidity. To combat it, it is worth using any fungicides, for example, "Topaz" or a solution of furacilin.
3. Rust is another unpleasant disease that manifests itself as brown spots. Subsequently, they spread to all leaves. A little later, they completely crumble. As a prevention of such a disease, you can use Bordeaux mixture.

And there are also a large number of pests that phlox may like. First of all, it is worth noting nematodes - small parasitic worms that feed on the sap of this plant. One nematode can lay more than 100 eggs. With their appearance, the bush must be dug up and burned along with the eggs of dangerous worms.

In addition, phlox are very fond of slugs, snails or ordinary caterpillars. They are especially dangerous during the growth of young shoots. If these are caterpillars, and they have just appeared, they can be collected by hand. If time has been lost, it is worth using special drugs that are sold in any appropriate store to fight. Snails or slugs can be fought with traps set on leaves or under a bush.

6 Growing hydrangeas in a pot - what can be the difficulties?

If you do not have a garden area, but you want to admire the blooming hydrangea, it is quite possible to grow it at home.

If you have read all of the above material, you should not have any difficulties. Caring for a hydrangea in an apartment is practically no different from that in the open field.

There are also many varieties of indoor hydrangea, but large-leaved hydrangea is usually chosen. Moreover, at home, its bushes grow more compact, but with more intensely colored flowers (burgundy red, bright blue, rich cream, etc.). With good care, hydrangea can reach a meter in height and delight you with inflorescences up to 30 cm in diameter, so it will need a large pot, 8-15 liters in volume.

Use a mixture of equal parts of garden soil, high-moor peat and semi-rotted coniferous litter as a soil.

From the conditions, the hydrangea in the apartment will prefer a bright, not hot place without direct sunlight, fresh, sufficiently humid air without drafts, the absence of sudden temperature changes and active watering with soft, settled water at room temperature. In the summer, 5-6 times with an interval of 2 weeks, it needs to be fed with mineral fertilizer (for example, 3 g of potassium sulfate + 4 g of superphosphate + 3 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 liter of water).

The most important thing in caring for a room hydrangea is handling it during the cold season. Even indoors, hydrangea remains a deciduous shrub and sheds foliage for the winter. After that, she needs to ensure peace - they tie up the shoots and rearrange the pot in a dark, cool place (without forgetting, nevertheless, to regularly moisten the soil). In February-March, the hydrangea is again exposed to its usual conditions and regular care begins.

Hydrangea is a great option for decorating both a standard city apartment and a luxurious garden plot or a modest summer cottage.Do not forget about the simple rules of regular care, and she will surely respond with lush flowering.

Landing

In order for the flowerbed to look beautiful and pleasing to the eye, it is important to choose the right varieties of Asters and plant them correctly. All procedures are simple, but they should be followed in order for the perennial to please with its flowering

How to choose a landing site

In order for the bushes to grow well and not get sick, and in the fall they are completely covered with flower buds, it is necessary to choose the right place in the flower bed. The soil in the area set aside for perennial Asters should be sufficiently loose and nutritious.

Check the quality of the soil BEFORE planting, otherwise the flower may hurt and grow poorly

If the soil is poor in microelements, then complex fertilizers should be applied before planting.

The place should be sunny, but flowers can easily tolerate partial shade or lacy shade due to the foliage of the tree.

If the groundwater in the garden lies very close to the surface of the soil, then when planting, make a 10 cm cushion of gravel in order to avoid decay of the plant root system.

How to sow seeds correctly

Perennial Aster reproduces well by sowing seeds... To do this, untreated seeds are treated with any growth stimulant and fungicide, after which they are planted in prepared boxes up to 10 cm deep, filled with nutritious soil.

To keep the rows even, they can be done with a knife or a wooden ruler.

After the seeds have been laid out in the prepared grooves, they are sprinkled with a small layer of disinfected (calcined) sand. After that, the earth should be shed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate - this will prevent the infection of the seedlings with the "black leg".

In order for the seedlings to sprout more amicably, the seedling box is covered with glass or placed in a transparent bag to form greenhouse conditions.

The air temperature in the room where the seedlings are grown should be +20 degrees. When most of the sprouted seedlings appear, the glass is removed and the first watering is performed.

What time to grow

The end of March is the best time to start sowing perennial Asters for seedlings... If it is necessary to propagate by seeds by sowing seeds directly into open ground, then this period depends on the habitat of the gardener.

In the southern regions of Russia, they are planted in open ground, depending on weather conditions, in early April and covered with foil to create greenhouse conditions. In the Moscow region, the beginning of sowing seeds falls on the first days of May, since return frosts may also be at the end of May.

How seedlings are grown

To prevent the seedlings from stretching out excessively, it is necessary to take them out to a cooler room, where the air temperature will be about 16 degrees Celsius. The room must be sunny.

Timely turning of the seedlings towards the light ensures their correct development

In order for the seedlings to develop evenly from all sides, it must be turned in different directions in relation to the sun.

The main varieties of Canadian spruce

In landscape design, both the natural form of the Canadian spruce and a variety of decorative species bred specifically for landscaping areas are used. There are 20 decorative forms of Canadian spruce, which differ in height, color of needles and their individual characteristics.

Canadian spruce Conica

Canadian Konica spruce is the most common and popular spruce. Such a love for this coniferous tree is due to its size - this spruce belongs to the dwarf forms and is an ideal solution for decorating the site. It can reach a height of 1.5-2 meters, rarely grows up to 2.5 m. It is possible to plant Canadian Konik spruce in open ground in stone gardens or in containers.

The spruce has a dense cone-shaped crown, therefore, the main care for the Canadian Konik spruce is to form the shape of the needles. It is her ideal shape of the needles that is of particular value for landscape design. Such a spruce is planted in open sunny places or in partial shade.Due to its properties and frost resistance, it is perfect for growing in the middle lane, but with the condition of shelter for the winter. It grows slowly, which is great for many gardeners.

Canadian spruce Alberta Globe

Albert's Canadian spruce is also a dwarf form, ideal for landscaping the site. Differs in a spherical crown shape. The shoots of this tree are short with short needles on them. The needles are green. This variety of Canadian spruce grows slowly, with an annual growth of 2-4 cm. Great for growing in containers or for planting in rock gardens. The variety was developed in the Netherlands.

Canadian spruce Blue Planet

Such a tree is indeed a very small tree. For 10 years, the crown diameter reaches only 20 cm. The crown has the shape of a ball, the needles are very short. Differs in silver-blue color. It is a good option for landing in containers, as well as for decorating alpine slides. It is imperative to plant it in sunny places, otherwise it may lose its bluish color in the shade.

Canadian Spruce Daisy White

Canadian spruce Daisy White with its appearance is very similar to Konica, since it comes from this particular type of spruce. Her crown is cone-shaped. By the age of 10, it reaches 80 cm in height. The Canadian daisy spruce has its own peculiarity - the first shoots have a yellow-white color, which then burns out in the sun. In the second year, the branches turn green.

Echiniformis Canadian spruce

It is a low-growing spruce variety that grows very slowly. The adult plant of the Canadian spruce echiniformis reaches only 50 cm in height, and can grow up to 1 meter wide. It has a spherical shape of a bluish-green crown. Suitable for rock gardens or containers.

Canadian Spruce Laurin

Refers to dwarf varieties of needles. It grows very slowly, it grows only 2 cm per year. By the age of 10, the height is about 40 cm. It is distinguished by a narrow conical crown and bright green needles.

Sanders Blue Canadian spruce

Canadian spruce Sanders
very similar to the most popular variety - conic. It has the same regular conical crown and is a dwarf variety. A distinctive feature of this variety is the blue shade of the needles. Looks great in small gardens.

The above varieties of Canadian spruce are only part of the species diversity that are used in gardening.

Features of planting and care

Juniper is placed in sunny areas, its needles do not burn in the sun. But in the shade, the color of the needles fades and the plant grows more slowly. A light lace shade is acceptable.

The juniper is placed in sunny areas, its needles do not burn in the sun.

The scaly blue star juniper does not impose strict requirements on soils. Loose fertile soil with a slightly acidic reaction is suitable for him. The ideal composition would be such a mixture: peat, sand and sod land, taken in equal proportions. The plant should not be placed in low places of the site where moisture stagnates.

Before planting, the site is fertilized with mineral fertilizers for conifers (Buisk fertilizers). The finished composition contains all the trace elements necessary for the plant in a balanced form.

Blue Star seedlings with a closed root system can be planted in spring, summer and autumn. They take root well with proper care. The process of planting a juniper in the open field looks like this.

1. In the prepared area, holes are dug of such a size that the root system of the seedling fits freely there, and a little free space remains. Expanded clay or crushed stone is poured at the bottom, in a layer of 7-12 cm, as drainage.
2. Pour 10-15 cm of soil mixture on top of the drainage.
3. The seedling removed from the pot is immersed in the hole and sprinkled with earth.
4. After planting, the plant is abundantly watered and mulched with pine bark, wood chips, pebbles.

The distance between the bushes should be at least 100 cm.

Plant care

The juniper needs regular watering and spraying in hot and dry weather.

The juniper needs regular watering and spraying (irrigation with soft (rain or settled) water from a watering can) in hot and dry weather.

The ephedra is fed twice a season: in spring and autumn. In April - early May, nitrogen fertilizers are applied. This can be mulching bushes with humus or watering with a weak solution of chicken manure (concentration 1 to 20). Or use urea dissolved in water, 1 level tablespoon per 10 liters of water.

In October, fertilizers are used with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium, plus trace elements. Around the plants, sprinkle granules of a special mixture for conifers (according to the instructions) or use the following mixture:

• superphosphate 40 gr. for 1 sq. m;
• potassium sulfate 30 gr .;
• drug mag boron 10 gr.

For the winter, young plants are covered with a spanboard or white lutrasil.

For the winter, young plants are covered with a spanboard or white lutrasil, they are insulated with pine spruce branches on top, and snow is covered. It is enough to protect an adult juniper from the hot spring sun with a white non-woven material.

Juniper can suffer from fungal diseases and pests (aphids, spider mites). The plant is treated with a Bordeaux mixture of 1% concentration. For insects, insecticides are used (Inta Vir, Aktellik).

The ephedra does not need pruning, only damaged and old branches are removed.

Reproduction

The juniper is transplanted to a permanent place 3 years after planting.

A simple way to propagate blue-old juniper, available to any gardener, is cuttings. Twigs, 10 cm long, are cut from shoots, aged from 10 years, in spring - in April.

The stalk is cut with the heel - a piece of bark from the branch from which the shoot was cut. The lower part of the cutting is cleaned of needles and dusted with Kornevin or Heteroauxin. The branches are planted obliquely in pots filled with a mixture of peat and coarse sand.

The cuttings are placed in a warm place with dim, diffused light. The pots are covered with a plastic cap. Plants are watered and sprayed regularly.

After about 1-1.5 months, new needles will begin to grow on the branch. This is evidence that the stalk has sprouted. For the summer, seedlings can be taken out into the garden. In the fall, young plants are removed to the cellar or insulated with sawdust, fallen leaves and agricultural fabric right in the garden.

The juniper is transplanted to a permanent place 3 years after planting.

Propagated by cuttings, layering and dividing the bush

Hydrangea Pinky Winky - photo, description, care:

Suitable for dividing adult bushes that have reached 7-10 years of age

Hydrangea wims red planting and care in the open field

Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red is an early-flowering variety with burgundy-red inflorescences.

Description Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red (Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red). Sprawling shrimp up to 1.5 m high. Inflorescences are large, 30-35 cm in length. Blooms from June to October. Pure white flowers turn pink by August, with the onset of September they become burgundy-red. Blooms already in the year of planting. It is hardy and unpretentious. Winter hardiness zone: 4 (-35 ° С). It hibernates without shelter, but it is recommended to mulch young plants for the winter.

Panicle hydrangea is one of the most decorative, yet unpretentious varieties of hydrangea. It is a shrub or a low tree up to 3 m in height. The crown is dense, spherical. Inflorescences are large, racemose. Gritzia blooms from July to autumn. The heavy caps of the inflorescences droop under their own weight.Initially white, by autumn they acquire a pink tint. Perfect for cutting, keeping it fresh for a long time in water.

Planting site Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red. For planting hydrangeas when grown in the southern regions, it is preferable to choose a semi-shady place, in the middle lane and in the north of Russia - well-lit or slightly shaded areas. Young plants are recommended to be protected from the midday sun and wind. Hydrangeas are very moisture-loving, so planting near trees that absorb a lot of moisture is not suitable for them.

Soil for Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red. Hydrangeas prefer nutrient-rich, moist soils. The optimal soil mix consists of humus, leafy soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1. All hydrangeas prefer acidic soils, pH = 5.0.

Planting Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red. Planting hydrangeas in open ground is carried out in the spring; in the southern regions, planting in the fall is possible. The optimal parameters of the planting pit are 30 * 30 * 30 cm, the distance between neighboring plants is 1 m. A third of a bucket of humus and peat should be added to the planting hole. The root collar does not need to be buried. After planting, the plants need to be watered, for this it is better to use soft water. After watering, the soil is loosened. In late May - early June, they are fed with slurry (1:10) and complete mineral fertilizer dissolved in water. After 10-15 days, feeding should be repeated. A useful technique is to mulch the trunks. For the winter, the bushes are spud to a height of 20-30 cm.

Care Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red (Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red). Hydrangeas are very responsive to feeding. In the spring, at the beginning of growth, it is recommended to apply full fertilization, preferably with trace elements. During the budding period, a second feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is carried out (60 - 80 g of superphosphate and 40 - 45 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. M), after which the plants are fed two more times during the summer. Hydrangeas are moisture-loving. In the absence of rains once a week, they must be watered at the rate of 15-20 liters per bush, in the presence of rains, one watering per month is enough. To increase the strength of the shoots, it is recommended to water the plants with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Two or three times per season, simultaneously with weeding, the trunks are loosened. Pruning hydrangeas encourages shrub growth. Every spring, before the leaves bloom, it is necessary to remove all weak last year's branches, and well-developed shoots are cut shortly to 2-3 buds. During the budding period, remove all weak branches with inflorescences. The panicle hydrangea does not need shelter, but in the first two years after planting, mulching the soil with dry foliage and hilling the bush is recommended.

Reproduction Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red (Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red). Hydrangea is propagated by green cuttings, which are cut from the shoots of the current year. Reproduction is also possible by dividing the bush, layering, seeds and grafting.

Use of Hydrangea paniculata Wim's Red in garden design. Hydrangea is an incredibly beautiful plant, its use in garden design is diverse. These are single plantings, and mixed compositions, hedges, mixborders. The main condition is to leave the plant enough free space for normal development.