Rose caesar

Care

When growing the presented variety, adhere to the following rules.

Watering and feeding

The first two years are the most important plants in life. The culture requires weekly watering. It is enough to pour out a bucket of warm water at a time. The amount of watering should be doubled during dry weather.

The first fertilizers are applied in the first year at the end of May. You can use specialized mixtures designed for flowering plants. In the summer, the shrub is fed several more times at intervals of once every two weeks.

For adult bushes, which are more than two years old, three additional dressings per year are enough. The first time the rose is fertilized after the spring thaw, then during the flowering period, the last feeding is carried out after the bush has faded. It is recommended to feed a two-year culture with a fertilizer that contains nitrogen. Suitable, for example, mullein, bird droppings, ammonium nitrate. It is necessary to feed the plant after rain or abundant watering.

A short overview of the most unpretentious roses "Rosarium Utersen" in the video below.

Pruning

In order for the bush to produce healthy, lush flowers and look beautiful, it is necessary to systematically prune. The buds of this variety are formed on the shoots of the past and present years, therefore it is recommended to mark the most prolific stems. Weak branches need to be cut, they make the crown too thick, interfere with strong specimens.

Pruning is recommended in the spring after removing the protective cover, usually this procedure occurs in mid-April. It is necessary to eliminate not only weak stems that do not give flowers, but also frozen shoots

The manipulation is carried out with a sharp secateurs very carefully. If, before and after each pruning, the tool is treated with an antiseptic, then the risk of infection of the shrub will be significantly reduced.

It is better to burn old cut branches - this is another method of disease prevention.

Preparing for winter

Preparation for frost begins at the end of August.

• At this time, the soil under the bush ceases to loosen, fertilizers with nitrogen are no longer applied, less often watering is carried out.
• When the air temperature drops to -5 degrees, the shrub needs to be covered with a thick film. Previously, it is not recommended to cover this indicator, as this can provoke damping and decay of the plant.
• Dry branches are removed, the stems are removed from the support, wrapped with twine and pressed against the soil, previously lined with spruce branches.

Diseases and pests

As mentioned above, the variety is quite resistant to the most common diseases, such as powdery mildew or black spot. However, before more rare ailments, the plant often turns out to be powerless, these include gray rot and rust. These diseases affect the culture with improper care or when choosing an unsuccessful site.

Signs of gray rot: the bush becomes brown-gray in color, the leaves are crumbling, the branches rot. When the first symptoms appear, the rose should be sprayed with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid. If the disease has seriously affected the plant, then it should be transplanted to a more ventilated area. Also, the situation will be saved by treatment with "Fundazol" or "Oxychom" twice within two weeks.

This variety is not particularly resistant to pests; it is often attacked by rosaceous aphids, leafhoppers, leafworms, spider mites. Gardeners recommend fighting these insects with special preparations "Inta-vir", "Fufanol", "Commander". It is possible that several treatments will be needed for one bush. Marigolds planted next to a rose will help scare off pests: insects are afraid of the scent of these flowers.

Further care

Rosa Parade does not need painstaking care.On the contrary, she feels better if she is given the "freedom" to roam on the surface allocated to her. Only in the first year, young seedlings require increased attention, then the care practically comes to naught.

Watering

At first, the planted seedlings especially need water, so watering is arranged every 7-10 days, depending on the weather. Then the number of waterings is reduced to once every 14 days. To prevent moisture from evaporating quickly, it is recommended to mulch the soil with sawdust or peat. Water the roses with warm water under the root. The earth is kept in a floor wet. It is by no means recommended to transfuse delicate plants, otherwise you can earn illness and death of the flower.

Top dressing

In the first year after planting, roses are not fertilized, since they have enough of those nutrients that were introduced when the flower garden was touched up. From the second year, the plants begin to be systematically fed, alternating organic matter and minerals. During the season, it is permissible to arrange 5-6 dressings:

• The first two are carried out at the beginning of the growing season, in the spring. At these times, a mullein diluted with water or nitrogen fertilizer (saltpeter + urea) is introduced.
• Before flowering, use mineral compositions based on phosphorus and potassium. Mullein, bird droppings, and horse droppings can also be added to them, but in a lower concentration than the first time. Ash is also introduced. Potash-based liquid top dressing is used.

By the way, it is forbidden to bring fresh manure under the roses - this will cause the death of plants or disease!

• The next feeding is arranged after flowering. The plants are fed with a complete mineral fertilizer, significantly reducing or completely removing the proportion of nitrogen. The rose responds well to beneficial watering with nettle infusion - it significantly increases the viability of plants weakened by flowering.
• The last time fertilization is applied at the end of summer in order to strengthen the plants for winter. This time, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied.

Wintering

Climbing roses, although winter-hardy, still require shelter for the winter, especially in the year of planting. Before the shelter in mid-autumn, the lashes are removed from the support, pre-cutting off damaged shoots, faded buds, old leaves. To prevent roses from getting sick in winter, the plants are sprayed with 3% Bordeaux liquid or iron vitriol. With the onset of stable frosts, the bushes are neatly folded up and covered with spruce branches, after having thoroughly covered the base with peat or leaves. They bend the rose only in warm weather, otherwise the frozen shoots may break.

If the bush has not yet grown much, then it would be advisable to cover it with a wooden or metal frame, which will protect young bushes from freezing in severe frosts and winters with little snow. It will no longer be possible to fold adult bushes compactly, therefore, for insulation, a film or other dense material is covered over the spruce branches, which will protect the plants from the searing cold.

Pruning

Take off the shelter as soon as the snow melts and it gets warm

It is important at this moment to prevent overheating of plants, the accumulation of water condensation. To do this, first, the base of the bush is cleared of peat or grass, and after a few days, the bushes are completely freed.

To prevent them from getting burns from the intense spring ultraviolet radiation, a protective awning is installed over the bushes. As soon as the plants get used to the environmental conditions, the awning is removed. Then the lashes are carefully unfolded and placed on the fence, fastened and spring pruning is carried out, which includes the formation of a bush and the removal of sick, frozen and weakly growing shoots. At the base of the bushes, you can see wild growth that needs to be uprooted, as it greatly inhibits the growth of the main stem and makes the bush look sloppy.

After trimming and fixing on supports, prophylactic spraying against pests and diseases is carried out with Bordeaux liquid or iron sulfate. The soil around the bushes is dug up or deeply loosened, adding minerals and organic matter.

In the summer, pruning is carried out in order to increase the flowering intensity. To do this, cut off the faded buds with 1-2 true leaves above the fruiting bud.

By the way! With the help of a pinch, you can control the flowering time. Pinching the ends of the shoots can shift the beginning of flowering by 15-20 days.

Care during the growing season

To make the bush look neat and bloom for a long time, wilted inflorescences are regularly removed

If the rose was planted in fertile soil, in the process of the first year of life in the area of ​​feeding it is not needed. Only in the fall, in August-September, potash fertilizers can be applied to the soil to help the plant winter better. As a source of potassium, wood ash is used, infused in water in a proportion of 250 g per 10 liters of water.

Climbing roses are drought-resistant and do not like waterlogging. Therefore, if natural precipitation does not fall, water the plant once a week with a bucket of water under the bush. To prevent the water from spreading, a small groove is made around the bush.

The rose does not tolerate weeds in the trunk circle. Therefore, weeding is a must. To devote less time to the plant, the circle is generously mulched, then the soil will have to be loosened less often and weeds will not appear.

Climbing roses in landscape design

For abundant flowering, a rose of the second year of life is fed 4-5 times per season, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers, especially phosphorus. Older bushes require only the introduction of organic matter, which is an infusion of mullein, nitrogen.

You need to feed the bush before and after flowering. During flowering, only watering and removal of faded inflorescences is needed. The better the plant is cared for after the first wave of flowering, the more abundantly it will bloom again.

If the rose is planted in spring, all buds that form are plucked to give the plant strength and strength. If the plant is autumnal, it is allowed to bloom.

Here are some more important grooming tips:

• regularly inspect the plant in order to detect diseases or aphids in the early stages. If it has already appeared on nearby plants, it is imperative to carry out preventive treatment
• during periods of heavy rainfall and prolonged rains, periodically shake off excess moisture from the bush to prevent the development of rot and fungal diseases
• keep the trunk circle clean

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Landing

When planting a rose "Iceberg", several prerequisites should be taken into account. This variety prefers light soil rich in humus

It is important that the ground waves are not close to the surface. Successful development requires the presence of sufficient sunlight, moderate humidity, and protection from the winds. When planting, you have to dig a hole, the depth of which reaches 100 centimeters, and the diameter does not exceed 65 centimeters

The hole is to be filled with a mixture of sand, humus and turf. To create it, you will have to take part of the humus, part of the sod soil and two parts of the sand. "Iceberg" will respond positively to the introduction of a bucket of wood ash or approximately 150 grams of mineral fertilizers. If the land where the roses are planted is clayey, then it will have to be supplemented with sand, and also enriched with humus

When planting, you have to dig a hole, the depth of which reaches 100 centimeters, and the diameter does not exceed 65 centimeters. The hole is to be filled with a mixture of sand, humus and turf. To create it, you will have to take part of the humus, part of the sod soil and two parts of the sand. "Iceberg" will respond positively to the introduction of a bucket of wood ash or approximately 150 grams of mineral fertilizers. If the land where the roses are planted is clay, then it will have to be supplemented with sand, and also enriched with humus.

Sandy soil is also subject to adjustment: it is drained with sawdust or mixed with compost. The site itself must be level and unspoiled by the presence of depressions in which water will stagnate.It is worth mentioning that if a breakdown of a whole rose garden is planned, then the depth of the pits is reduced to 40 centimeters. It is better to plant roses at the end of April: by this time the snow should have already melted, and the earth should warm up slightly.

In any case, you should wait until the air temperature exceeds 10 degrees. Approximately 3 or 4 hours before the start of the procedure, it is recommended to soak the seedlings in water, so that after the plant it is easier to endure the procedure. In addition, you cannot do without pruning - removing roots that are more than 30 centimeters long, as well as unnecessary shoots. When lowering the seedling into the ground, there should be no more than four shoots on the bush. When the rose is in the hole, the soil will need to be slightly compacted.

Care for the Iceberg variety is, in principle, standard. Its main components are watering and feeding. Irrigation is carried out according to the situation, while the land should not dry out, but it should not be poured either. It is necessary to direct the water precisely at the root, making sure that the drops do not end up on the bush itself. Ideally, the water should be slightly warmed up. The best option would be to use a liquid that has settled in the sun.

If we talk about fertilizers, the Iceberg rose welcomes humus, compost and peat. In addition, we must not forget about mulching, which is carried out in spring and autumn (before the start of wintering). By the way, it will be most convenient to introduce organic matter already as part of the mulch, embedding it in the trunk circle. At the beginning of summer, either mineral complexes or ammonium nitrate are added twice.

For the winter, it is recommended to additionally cover the bushes, having previously bent the plants to the ground and fixing them. For winter protection, spruce paws are most often used, which are removed in the spring. After removing the roses from the shelter, the soil should also be loosened. Before wintering, the plant is freed from all damaged, dried, diseased or otherwise affected parts.

Pruning is done either in the spring or in the fall - it is not necessary to do this twice. During this procedure, shoots are removed that are already more than three years old, and last year's shoots are only shortened by 3 buds

Somewhere between May and August, it is important to regularly loosen. This procedure ensures the transportation of oxygen to the root system, which favorably affects their effective development.

Rose "Iceberg" most often gets sick with black spot. The reason for it is either the effect of excessive moisture, or the presence of stagnation in the soil. Sometimes it happens that disease spores bears the acquired seedling, and, as you might guess, the growing process is accompanied by the development of the disease

It is important to dig up the infected plant, transplant to an area located away from any other flowers, and treat with antifungal agents. If the desired effect is not achieved, then the bush will simply have to be destroyed.

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The climbing rose Sympathie belongs to the hybrids of Cordes and was bred by him in 1964. A little later she received the highest quality mark. Since then, its popularity has not diminished in the least.

Under favorable conditions, its lashes can grow up to 3-4 m. At first, they grow straight up, then as they grow, they begin to droop. Shoots are strong, powerful, tough. Therefore, adult branches are rather difficult to bend down for the winter for shelter. A large number of new shoots grow from the root and, if they are not cut off, a wide bush will form over time. Leaves are medium-sized, juicy green, shiny, leathery. Young leaves can be slightly sunburned at the edges. The Sympathie rose is re-blooming. Flowers appear on both old and young shoots. The first wave of flowering begins in June and is the most powerful. Then flowering is repeated several more times, but not so much, until the very frost. Flowers grow in clusters of 3-10 pieces along the entire length of the shoot.They are terry, velvety, dark red in color, about 11 cm in diameter, with a not strong pleasant smell.

The advantages of this variety include excellent resistance to powdery mildew, black spot. Rose flowers do not lose their attractiveness after rain, do not fade in the sun. In terms of frost resistance, the Sympathie rose belongs to the 5th climatic zone. In more northerly areas, shelter will be required for the winter. The base will need to be earthed higher, the whips should be laid and covered with burlap or spruce branches, or brushwood

And here it is important not to overdo it, because damping is almost a worse enemy than frost

The rose loves a sunny place, here it blooms much more magnificently. But according to the reviews of many rose growers, Sympathie feels good in partial shade. The soil needs nutritious, slightly acidic, permeable water. Heavy soils will need to be improved with compost and sand before planting. Watering once a week. Feed with fertilizer for roses. In July, feeding should be stopped so that the plant is prepared for wintering. You can read about pruning climbing roses here. When laying lashes for the winter, you must try so that they do not come into contact with the ground. It is better to put the same brushwood, spruce branches, burlap or covering material under them.

On the forums, information is often found that gardeners do not like the way the bottom of the bush looks. She seems to be "ankle". To prevent the bottom of the rose bush from looking bare, you do not need to cut off all excess annual shoots at the root. Leave a part, cutting to a height of 60-120 cm.

The Sympathie rose is propagated by cuttings. They must be cut in July from flowering or fading shoots. The stalk should have 2-3 buds. In the lower part of the cutting, the leaves are removed, an oblique cut is made under the lower bud, and the cutting is stuck into a pot with a mixture of earth and sand about 1 cm deep. Protect from direct sunlight. Almost 100% of the cuttings are rooted under the film.

When buying ready-made seedlings, you need to pay attention that the roots are healthy and strong, numerous, and not one or two (they are sold with a bare root system). And there must be at least three shoots

It is necessary to plant in the spring in a pit measuring 50x50x50 cm. Sprinkle with earth mixed with compost, with the addition of superphosphate and wood ash. We deepen the grafting site by 5-7 cm. Immediately upon planting, it is necessary to organize a support.

For decorative purposes, the Sympathie rose can be used to decorate the walls by running it over the trellis to cover the gazebos. Use as a screen if you make a pergola for a rose. You can grow it as a standard one, then it will take up little space in the flowerbed.

Other plants can be planted next to the rosebush to cover its ankle. For example, white-blooming felt chickweed, gypsophila, bell, or narrow-leaved lavender, Fassen's catnip, forest sage blooming in blue-violet tones will look beautiful.

Climbing roses

By this name, they do not mean any related species, but practically all representatives of the wild rose genus, which form long shoots and are capable of changing the direction of growth. Naturally, there is no general description of them, since they often represent representatives of completely different varieties or hybrids.

Climbing roses differ in terms of care, as well as climatic zones in which they are grown. The only common feature of these plants is the ability of their stems to take the forms that growers direct them with the help of special supports or other elements of landscape design.

These plants are suitable for braiding various elements of the decorative arrangement of the garden: fences, gazebos, walls, trees, and so on. Actually, the classification of climbing roses depends not so much on their biological characteristics, but on how and what they will braid.

Let's consider their main classes:

• (Curly or ramblers) They have long (more than 5 m) creeping shoots with small leaves.Flowers are distributed evenly along the entire length of the stems. The blooming period of ramblers is from 4 to 5 weeks and occurs in June-July. Most ramblers are frost-hardy and hibernate without any shelter. The main purpose is to braid walls and fences.
• (Climbing) They are a hybrid of ramblers and tea roses (sometimes floribunda). The length of their shoots is about 4 m, however, the flowers are much larger than those of climbing roses; their diameter can exceed 5 cm. Most climbers bloom twice a season, they are also frost-resistant.
• (Climing) They are a further mutation of climbers, but have thicker stems and flowers, up to 11 cm in diameter. However, the number of flowers on the shoot is about half that on climbing or climbing. Most of them also bloom twice a season, but they grow only in warm climates, since they cannot tolerate even mild frosts.

Most climbing plants are frost-resistant, however, it is recommended to cover them with additional means in the form of a film or a protective layer of foliage or grass for the winter. In the latter case, it is necessary to remove the plant stems from the supports, laying them on the ground.

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Growing a flower

In order for a rose to grow and bloom faster, you need to more carefully select a planting site and soil.

Rose Caesar is planted mainly with the help of seedlings. Sometimes the procedure is carried out by layering and cuttings. Usually such methods for breeding.

The best time to plant the Caesar rose is early spring. However, planting can also be carried out in the autumn.

Seat selection

The growing area should be spacious and light. It is better to plant shrubs next to fences and buildings that would shelter it from cold through northern winds. Air circulation should be present, but in moderation.

Important! The depth of groundwater passage underground must be at least 2 m

How to prepare the soil and flower for planting

Before planting, you need to pick up healthy, uninfected seedlings. It is better to acquire them in special nurseries, and not from hands. The seedling is pre-soaked in water for 9 hours.

The soil must be well loosened and humus or compost, as well as river sand and peat soil, must be added to it. The planting hole is dug out more than the root system. The distance between each hole should be at least 2.5 m, since the shrub will grow strongly and curl.

Planting a seedling

Landing procedure

A mixture of phosphate fertilizer, peat and compost is placed at the bottom of each hole. A little earth is sprinkled on top and a seedling is placed. It is imperative to spread the roots of the bush well, then sprinkle with earth and tamp. At the end, pour abundantly with river or rainwater slightly cool water.

Description

The world famous Tantau Rose Nursery is located in the north of Germany. Climbing rose "Barok", one of the best varieties of the nursery, was bred here in 1999. The name of the species comes from the word "baroque", meaning a style that combines pomp and unusualness. "Baroque" fully corresponds to its name, differing in spectacular flowering and decorativeness.

According to the classification established in floriculture, the variety belongs to climbers. Young, flexible shoots of a rose harden over time and become tough. She has large double flowers with beautiful buds and a spicy sweet aroma.

The color scheme of the rose is amazing. It shimmers from apricot and pinkish to creamy with yellow tones. The flowers stand out beautifully among the dark green foliage. The color of the petals depends on the weather conditions. In cool weather, they turn pink, and in hot weather they become apricot with a yellowish tint. Height reaches 2-3 meters, flower size - up to 12 cm, 5-10 cup-shaped flowers with 65-75 petals are placed on the stem at once.

In addition to appearance, other advantages are also attracted:

• continuous flowering;
• disease resistance;
• good frost resistance.

Nursery seedlings are excellent planting material. They fly all over the world. In Russia, the variety is successfully grown in the middle lane.