Step-by-step instructions for planting and care
Choosing a planting site - you need partial shade so that scattered light falls on the shrub, you can plant in the vicinity of tall trees (preferably conifers). You can not choose a place on low areas, and it should not be blown by the winds.
What should be the soil - it should be light, nutritious, loose. Moderate humidity is desirable; in wetlands and with a high groundwater table, Rhododendron will not grow. If the soil in your garden is unsuitable, then you need to add special soil to the planting site to improve it. It can be made from: peat;
turf land;
compost;
charcoal;
sand;
humus;
perlite.
Take all components (except coal) in equal parts, and then add a little coal, mix and the required soil is ready.
Planting is the most suitable time for her - spring. After we have decided on the place, we prepare a hole for the bush, not very deep (about half a meter), but wide.
Be sure to add any drainage layer there, then pour a thin layer of pine needles and a little prepared soil on top.
We put the plant in the middle and sprinkle the soil on the sides, trying not to deepen more than necessary - the root collar should be on top.
Now it remains to water, spray and mulch.
Temperature - Rhododendron Nova Zembla easily withstands even severe frost, the lowest critical temperature is 32 degrees of frost, and the highest is plus 35 degrees
A comfortable temperature for him is in the range from minus 10 to plus 25.
Watering - it is necessary to water often and in large quantities, as the plant is very powerful and needs a lot of moisture.
Attention! You can only use rainwater, in extreme cases - settled.
Top dressing - Rhododendrons are responsive to organic top dressing. In the spring, before flowering, you need to fertilize with well-rotted cow dung with the addition of peat, the second time this composition is introduced in the summer, after flowering
You can also use balanced fertilizers special for Rhododendrons (sprinkle a little around the bush).
Pruning - only saniatric pruning is needed after wintering to remove broken or frozen branches. It is also worth removing all peduncles when flowering ends.
Transplant - shrubs of this species are not very supportive of the transplant, but if the plant needs a more comfortable place to pick up, then, of course, you need to start as soon as possible
But one should not rush to choose a place, it is better to make sure once again that it is chosen correctly, all "requests" are taken into account.
How to prepare for winter - the most important thing for this period is to conduct good water-charging watering and increase the height of the mulching layer (at least 15 cm). It is also advisable to cover the bush from above with a spunbond, it will protect both from freezing and burning out (in frost the sun can be very bright).
Landing rules
Despite the unpretentiousness of the Grandiflorum rhododendron and the ease of caring for it, some conditions must be met. An improperly selected soil composition can lead to a lack of flowering or the death of the entire shrub. If you choose the right planting site, then nothing else will be required besides watering.
Boarding time
It is necessary to plant a plant in a permanent place before flowering - in early spring after frosts or in early autumn. Rhododendrons have a shallow root system, so the topsoil should already be warmed up, and the precipitation could not harm the shrub.
Flower shoots are sensitive to drought, so the demi-season is best for transplanting.
Place and soil for planting rhododendron ketevba Grandiflorum
Rhododendron Grandiflora tolerates shade well, but it will still feel better on the south side, but without direct sunlight.Places with diffused light are also suitable, such as under trees or a canopy.
Important! When choosing a place for planting, you need to check in advance if there are any drafts. Constant winds can dry out plant shoots
Soil requirements:
- slightly acidic or acidic;
- wet;
- loose;
- rich in organic matter.
Before planting, the rhododendron can be placed in water so that it is saturated with moisture. The increased humidity of the soil and air is the key to good flowering. Therefore, it is recommended to install automatic sprinklers in the garden or to spray the shoots by hand every day.
Note! It is better to plant shrubs next to those trees that have similar soil requirements. Thus, neighbors will not take nutrients from each other.
Fruit trees can lead to depletion of the shrub, as they draw all the water out of the soil.
If precipitation often falls in the region, it is fraught with stagnation of moisture, which leads to decay of the roots. To protect an ornamental shrub, it is better to plant it immediately on a dais. In a temperate climate, a drainage layer is made in the planting pit.
To acidify the soil, you can mix several types of soil: garden, peat, overripe coniferous, clay, add sand. Sand and clay should be no more than 20% to maintain breathability.
How rhododendron Grandiflorum blooms
Seedling preparation
It is best to use a seedling that is three years old, but the possibility of transplanting younger or older specimens is not excluded.
Before planting, the shrub is dipped in a container of water until air bubbles cease to emerge. Long roots can be cut, the rest can be simply spread out.
Important! When planting, the root neck of the Katevba rhododendron Grandiflorum should remain above the ground
Fertilization
Rhododendron Katevbinsky Grandiflora absorbs many nutrients. On poor soils, its leaves will become pale and thin, and very few flowers will appear during the flowering period.
To avoid the above, from the beginning of spring until the end of flowering, the plants are fed. This is necessary for both young and adult shrubs. The last feeding is carried out when the bush has completely bloomed and new shoots begin to form.
Rhododendron Catavbiens Grandiflorum are suitable for:
- organic fertilizers, in particular, semi-rotten cow dung, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:15;
- horny flour;
- sulphate calcium and magnesium;
- potassium nitrate.
At the beginning of spring, nitrogen preparations are introduced into the soil, in June, compositions with potassium and phosphorus, in July, nitrogen is excluded.
Note! To preserve moisture and nutrients in the soil, the trunk circle of the shrub is mulched with needles
Bloom
- When and how - this variety begins to bloom in late spring (in May) and continues in June. During the flowering period (almost two months), the shrub is all covered with large bright inflorescences - balls, its appearance is simply delightful.
- Care before and after flowering - with the beginning of spring, it is necessary to carefully monitor watering and fertilizing. In April, it is imperative to feed the plant. Do not allow the ground near the bush to dry out, add mulch. It is also necessary to maintain humidity around the Rhododendron. And after flowering, the first thing to do is cut off all the flower stalks and feed them.
- What to do if it does not bloom - if such an unpretentious shrub does not want to bloom, then the whole thing, most likely, is in the wrong place for it. We'll have to find a worthy place and start a transplant, after carefully studying all the recommendations.
Evergreen shrub care
Rhododendron care varieties Nova Zembla consists in regularly moistening the soil around the plant, weeding, and fertilizing. 2-3 times a week should be watered rosewood, each bush should take about 10 liters of water.The matte color of the leaves, the appearance of dark spots on them signals insufficient soil moisture. An excellent solution would be to use automatic sprayers.
For wintering, it is better to cover young trees with spruce branches, and the ground under them with burlap. Warming will be needed within 3-4 years after planting a seedling, until it finally takes root in a new place in a cold climate.
For your information! Finnish varieties of rhododendrons are excellent for growing in the northern regions.
Top dressing and pruning
Compost or complex mineral compositions are suitable as fertilizers; they should be applied 2-3 times during the spring months. To help the rhododendron recover from flowering, you need to make phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
This type of rhododendron does not need crown formation, since the inflorescences form a neat dome. You can cut off those branches that do not look aesthetically pleasing in the landscape design of the garden or interfere with the passage. After winter it is necessary to cut off dead branches.
Note! Lush flowering in rhododendrons occurs in a year. To improve the situation, faded flowers need to be cut off in time, giving the plant the strength to form new ones.
A bush without wilted flowers will look much more beautiful.
Description
Skumpia leather has great practical value - it is used to obtain dyes for various areas of industrial production. In the conditions of the garden plot, the plant is used as an ornamental one. Variety "Royal violet" is a prominent representative of the sumach family. Scumpia "Royal Pearl" reaches a height of up to 5 m, but in cold climates rarely grows even up to 1.5–2 m. The shrub has a wide-oval crown, rather compact.
The plant has a fairly branched, well-developed root system that grows deep into the ground. Shoots have a green or brown tint, milky juice appears on the break. The older the branches, the more intense the brown color appears. They are covered with leaves of a regular oval shape, shiny, not pubescent, they have a color range from burgundy to purple-violet, with a soft pink border along the edge of the plate.
The inflorescences of the Royal Perel scumpia are collected in loose clusters consisting of small pink buds. In the future, they crumble, and the pedicels lengthen, long hairs of a red-pink or burgundy hue develop on their surface. The period of bud formation is in late May or early June.
Landing
Purple-leaved scumpia Royal Purple does not show the highest survival rate when self-breeding. But the seedlings in containers with a closed root system, supplied from nurseries, are already acclimatized and feel good even in the conditions of the Moscow region or the Leningrad region. It is better to choose plants 2-3 years old, which have already undergone several wintering periods.
The timing of planting largely depends on whether the plant has a closed or open root system. In the first case, spring transfer to the ground is recommended, after the soil warms up well, night frosts will stop. In autumn, planting is also possible, but it is better to carry it out in early September, so that rooting takes place before frost. Plants in containers are not as sensitive to external influences. They are planted in open ground throughout the warm season, including summer. Using the method of transshipment of an earthen coma, you can not be afraid that the plant will not tolerate changes well.
Regardless of the type of root system, it is important to choose the right place for the Royal Pearl scum. This shrub does not grow on too dense or heavy soils, stagnant water, waterloggedness, excessive acidification
You can not plant it in the lowlands - the spring stagnation of melt water can lead to the death of the plant.Scumpia Royal purple is sensitive to the amount of sunlight - it needs a well-lit area, possibly lightly shaded, not in a draft, with sandy loam or loamy soil. To prepare the ground for planting a new plant, it is worthwhile to make up a nutritious substrate in advance from 2 parts of turf and 1 part of sand and peat.
The introduction of dolomite flour or wood ash into the pit in advance will help to reduce the acidity of the soil. Such preparation will make it possible to make the cultivation of the Royal Cross scumpia truly hassle-free, and increases the chances of seedling survival.
The planting process for this variety includes several steps.
Seedling preparation. Plants with an open root system are placed in water 24 hours before planting. Container plants do not need this, they are released right before installation in the pit, keeping a completely earthen lump.
Planting holes are dug at the selected place. It is optimal if they have a diameter of 7-10 cm larger than the earthen clod or roots. A distance of 1.5–2 m is maintained between neighboring plants.
Drainage is being laid. The bottom of the prepared planting pit is 10 cm filled with sand and gravel. 100 g of lime is introduced into the soil mixture, the hole is filled up to half.
The seedling is placed in the ground. If the root system is open, you first need to inspect, cut off dried, damaged parts, then straighten the plant, set it in the center of the hole
It is very important for container seedlings to touch their roots as little as possible. Scumpia is gently rolled from the container onto a cushion of nutrient substrate.
Backfilling with earth
The prepared substrate is loaded into the hole so that the root collar is 2 cm above the upper edge of the hole. In the future, the earth will settle, the plant will be flush with the soil. The surface of the soil is compacted, abundant watering is carried out - up to 2 buckets per 1 bush.
Agrotechnical recommendations
"Royalty" refers to unpretentious varieties that tolerate frost and drought well, are not sensitive to strong winds. However, plants are prone to scab damage, therefore, they need to be treated with insecticidal preparations to prevent the disease. In addition, the variety is very stress-resistant - it perfectly adapts to conditions of high dustiness, gas pollution and different types of soil.
Like most apple trees, trees thrive best in open, sunny locations.
When choosing a place for planting, experienced gardeners recommend taking into account some points:
- when placed in the shade, the leaves of the plant turn from purple to dark green;
- constant shading of one side of the crown leads to disproportionate growth and deformation.
To create a hedge or alley, trees are advised to be planted at a distance of 3-5 meters from each other, and single specimens - no closer than 15 meters.
The variety does not react well to the "artistic" crown shaping, which leads to a slowdown in tree growth
Therefore, it is best to give the plant the opportunity to develop naturally, focusing on sanitary pruning (in spring and autumn) with careful removal of dry, damaged and disturbing the aesthetic appearance of the crown of the branches.
Plant propagation
Japanese azalea reproduces not only by cuttings. It can be propagated by seed or by dividing the bush. The most common is propagation by cuttings.
Seed
Such reproduction is used very rarely, for the reason that the plant develops very slowly and it will take a very long time to wait for it to bloom. Azalea grown from seed blooms only after five years.
Shrub seeds are sold at gardening stores. But if there is already an azalea in the garden, you can collect them yourself and try yourself in this business. How to reproduce correctly? To begin with, the seeds are treated with a disinfectant solution, and then stratified. For stratification, you can use a container filled with damp earth. Seeds are laid in it and placed in a cold place.The temperature there should be 2-4 ° C. The best place for stratification is the refrigerator. Sowing seeds in a greenhouse or greenhouse can be started already at the end of February or in March.
For successful sowing of seeds and obtaining seedlings, it is necessary to choose the right soil mixture, it must be moist and loose, contain peat with sand and leafy soil. Compost should serve as fertilizer here. Next, the seeds must be placed in the soil mixture, sprinkled with lightly sand. From above, the landing box is covered with a film or a glass cover. The seeds need to be opened daily for ventilation and moisture. And when the first leaves appear, the senets are transplanted into open soil. This will have to be done about a year after sowing, so be patient.
By dividing the bushes
This breeding method is also not very popular among lovers of rhododendrons. They do not like to use it very much because the plant grows very slowly, and it will take a long time to wait for the beautiful shape of each part of the bush. But, nevertheless, there are those among fans of azaleas who propagate it in this way. The division is carried out in early spring, before the sap begins to move along the stems of the shrub and buds appear.
You can divide the bush without digging it out entirely
Just carefully separate the part of the bush with the rhizome with a sharp blade of a knife or shovel, and the separated part is deposited into the prepared hole. And the rest is sprinkled first with ash, and then with soil
For this purpose, choose a bush that has many shoots and well-developed roots.
By cuttings
This breeding method for Japanese species of azalea is one of the simplest, and therefore the most popular. Even despite the fact that the seedling will bloom only after a couple or three years.
For rooting, cuttings are prepared in the first half of the spring season. How to prepare cuttings? To do this, cut the apical stems about 10-12 cm long, on which the bud and a couple of unblown leaves are removed from the lower part of the cutting. Then the lower end is incised at an angle of 45 ° C and immersed in the root stimulator for several hours.
Then holes are made in small cups at the bottom. After that, peat is poured there, moistened and cuttings are placed in it, one in each glass. Cups are placed in a box and covered with foil or glass. The box-container is taken out into a room where the temperature is maintained at about 18-22 ° C. The seedlings must be ventilated daily. Getting the root system of cuttings will happen about a month later, and then the plant can be transplanted into the garden.
Cuttings are popular with gardeners as others require a lot of time and special conditions. Growing an azalea from a cutting is faster and easier.
Diseases and pests
Most often, the Japanese azalea is attacked by the azalea aphid. The liquid secreted by it covers the surface of the leaves, and a red mite and a sooty mushroom appear on it. The solution to this situation is carried out with the help of fungicides and "Melatonin". The first ones stop the development of the fungus, and the second copes with aphids and other insects. Sometimes a red mite occurs when the plant is not adequately watered, causing the clod to dry out.
A white bloom on the plate appears when the rhododendron becomes infected with a spider mite. Since the pest sucks the juices out of the plant, the leaves then twist and dry out. To get rid of the pest will help drugs "Agravertin" and "Diazinon". When black thrips settle on a plant, the leaves themselves turn black. You can destroy it with Karbofos.
Fungi infect the bush when the temperature drops below normal, and the humidity, on the contrary, turns out to be too high. Other common diseases include late blight, chlorosis, and fusarium wilt.
At the beginning of the growing season, the plant is treated with copper oxychloride, as a result of which a thin film appears on the leaves, preventing infections.Next, it would be good to spray the bush with "Fundazol", which is responsible not only for prevention, but also for the treatment of diseases in the early stages. Finally, the plant's immunity is strengthened by applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
For tips on growing and caring for an azalea, see the following video.
Description
A magnificent shrub arose thanks to the English breeder E. Vaterer in the distant 50s. 19th century Hybrid Rhododendron Elegans was derived from the Katevbin variety. Its closest cousin, obtained from the same variety, is English Roseum, the pale pink bells of this species are also very resistant to weather.
Exotic pink garden handsome man
Description of the variety Roseum Elegance:
- Rhododendron Roseum Elegance is an evergreen, tall and spreading shrub. It grows in height up to 3 m. The crown, up to 4 m in diameter, has a broadly rounded shape, closed from below;
- the bark is dark green, over time, the shoots are covered with a dense tree-like layer;
- dense leathery leaves 7-8 cm long have an elliptical shape. Young, only blossoming leaves of a brown-red color, eventually change color to dark green;
- flowers 7 cm in diameter, five-petal curly at the edges. The color of the inflorescences is pink, juicy, on the upper petal there is a spot of orange and red dots. Pink-purple stamens are beautifully twisted at the ends, complementing the composition with white notes of their tips;
- bloom begins in June and lasts three weeks.
Round bunches of 15-20 flowers are tightly collected, they look spectacular on the dark greenery of the shrub
A unique difference from other varieties of this species is the ability of the leaves to change their color. Young leaves are red-brown, eventually turn dark green. Roseum is also distinguished by its winter hardiness and longevity; in comfortable conditions, the shrub lives up to 50 years.
Flower color type
The color of iris flowers is provided by the presence of two groups of pigments: anthocyanins - violet-red, purple, lavender, blue, violet, and carotenoids - yellow, orange, pink.
Varieties of hybrid iris by color of flowers are divided into:
- monochromatic (self) - in different scales;
- two-ton (bitone) - with the color of the inner and outer perianth lobes, differing in intensity of the same color;
- bicolor (bicolor) - with the upper and lower lobes, painted in different colors.
Certain terms are used for some color combinations of the upper and lower beats. So, two-color irises with white upper lobes are called "amena" (amoena), and with yellow ones - "variegata".
- Two-tone irises with light purple upper and dark purple (violet) lower lobes are called neglecta.
- Two-tone and two-tone varieties, in which the upper lobes are colored darker than the lower ones, are called "reverse" (reverse).
-
"Plicata" - this is a color sample with anthocyanin (in the spectrum from pink-lilac to dark purple) pattern on a light (white, cream, yellow, etc.) field on the bases and often on the edges of the perianth lobes. Sometimes the pattern can cover the entire surface of the lobes.
-
"Luminata" (luminata) is a color sample with the absence of anthocyanin pigments on the anthocyanin field around the beard (required) and along the edges of the perianth lobes (often).
-
"Luminata-plikata" is a color sample that combines the above characteristics.
-
"Glaciata" is a color sample with no anthocyanin pigments; flowers in white, yellow, pink, orange tones have a clean, icy tone.
-
Iridescent (blend) is a color sample of varieties, in the color of the perianth lobes of which, as a rule, smooth transitions from one color to another are observed.
A special category is formed by iris varieties with irregular (visually chaotic, unsystematic) pattern of perianth lobes - the so-called "broken" color. Their flowers resemble those of tulips affected by the variegation virus.
The history of the creation of the Mi-171 helicopter
About the Mi-171 helicopter, we can say that this is a modification of the Mi-8AM helicopter, which should be exported. This machine was created in the city of Ulan-Ude with the direct support of the Mil design bureau. During the development and manufacture of the helicopter, the wishes of the customers were taken into account. This model had a power plant that bypassed its predecessor in terms of power. The Mi-171 has significantly better flight characteristics, and it is also capable of flying under difficult meteorological conditions.
As for the appearance of the machine, it is practically the same as that of the Mi-8 helicopter. But due to new and more powerful equipment, it can rise higher and has a greater lifting capacity.
The main task of the Mi-171 helicopter is to destroy both ground and surface armored objects. Fire can be produced both at immovable objects and at objects that are moving. In addition to these capabilities, the vehicle can also conduct air combat. For military purposes, it is also used to land troops and transport military equipment.
The Mi-171 helicopter can rightfully be considered an improved one modification of the Mi helicopter-eight. The modernization of the machine took place at the helicopter plant in Kazan since 1977. The main changes affected almost all parts and assemblies of the device. Even the helicopter fuselage itself was lengthened, which made it possible to increase the cargo compartment. Due to this, it was possible to transport up to 29 paratroopers in full gear. The greatest changes have taken place with the onboard equipment of the vehicle.
But such a machine did not take root in practice, since the long fuselage led to large body vibrations. After modifications, the helicopter was equipped with a more powerful high-altitude power plant. The car with the new engine proved to be quite good and passed flight tests in '85. After another two years, the machine was modified, which allowed it to land at heights of up to 4 kilometers, and this machine made horizontal movement even at an altitude of 6 kilometers above sea level. All innovations and innovations have also led to an increase in flight range and climb speed.
Serial production of the Mi-171 helicopter began in early 1991. In the city of Ulan-Ude, more than a hundred such machines as the Mi-171 have already been built, and the purpose of the machines is quite different. At the end of 1997, this machine received a type certificate in the Russian Federation. This device received a type certificate according to American standards and norms in 1999 in China. This certificate confirms the quality of the cargo and passenger model of the Mi-171 helicopter both over land and over water bodies.
The most striking feature of the new machine was the more modern airframe design. The door was additionally installed on the starboard side, and the left one became much larger. The latest modification of the Mi-171 helicopter can carry significantly more soldiers, namely up to 36 people. Due to the fact that the helicopter has two doors and a cargo ramp, the paratroopers can leave the car in just 15 seconds. The maximum mass of cargo that the helicopter can carry was also increased to 4.5 tons. The nose of the aircraft has a completely new look and is more streamlined.
For more efficient power supply, the machine is equipped with a new generation of generators that do not have brushes. The latest machines of this type are equipped with excellent foreign-made navigation equipment. To achieve the best flying results, the machine is equipped with a power plant that has a capacity of 4800 horsepower. In addition, there is an additional power plant, which is manufactured in the Czech Republic.
Use in landscape design
This heather tree has a rather sprawling domed crown. Therefore, rhododendron should be planted where there is a lot of free space.
This variety will look great against the wall of a building to fill the space with bright accents, in the frame of a pond or near a gazebo. In large gardens, bright scarlet shrubs are also planted along the paths, combining Nova Zembla with flowers that bloom in a different period.
The backdrop for the rhododendron can be a spacious mowed lawn.
You can combine rhododendrons with conifers, which will harmonize not only externally with these bright bushes, but also give them the necessary shade.