How to grow Daurian rhododendron
The plant is undemanding to growing conditions. Although the rhododendron is quite light-requiring, it easily tolerates shading and is not afraid of frost. Withstands temperatures down to –45 ° C in winter without any problems.
The fruits of the plant ripen in October. Under the conditions of the Non-Black Earth Region, lignification of the shoots is 100% complete by winter. In the Nizhny Novgorod region, winter hardiness is relative; in winter cold, annual shoots can freeze slightly. Rhododendron does not tolerate winter thaws, it can die after a warm winter. Winter frosts also damage shrubs.
Planting the Daursky rhododendron and caring for it is not difficult. Its seeds should be stored in a paper bag or tightly sealed glass container in an unheated room. Their germination capacity lasts for 3 years. No stratification required.
Sowing is usually done as follows:
- sown in greenhouses from December to February, at a temperature of 18–20 ° C, they are not embedded in the soil;
- seed germination should begin in 20 days, seedlings are almost always uncooperative;
- when grown in a greenhouse, plants bloom in the third year;
- planting on the beds is carried out when the seedlings reach four years of age.
The easiest way to propagate plants is cuttings. For better rooting, they are placed for 15 hours in indolylbutyric acid (0.01%) or succinic acid (0.02%). Preference is given to cuttings obtained from the upper part of the shoots.
The work is carried out in stages:
- The cuttings that have managed to take root by the fall are planted in boxes with soil. The composition of the soil includes: sour peat (2 parts), sand (1 part), leafy soil (2 parts), coniferous litter (1 part).
- They are stored throughout the autumn-winter period in basements, at a temperature not exceeding 5 ° C.
- At the end of May, they dive into a bed with soil or a pot of soil with a similar composition, a double content of sour peat and replacement of leafy earth with sod is allowed.
- The seedlings are shaded, shields are installed over the garden bed.
Selection and purchase of seedlings
Do not order seedlings from afar. They must be grown in your area - it is such a shrub that will quickly take root on the site and overwinter successfully. Many Russian gardeners have already burned themselves by buying varietal bushes brought from Poland or Holland. The seedlings were sold in bloom and looked spectacular. In the yards, they immediately took root, but the very first winter showed these "warm-blooded" plants where crayfish hibernate.
The thing is that in Europe many seedlings are grown hydroponically. This is a good technology; in warm countries, seedlings even hibernate outside after that. Here they will freeze out. Such a bush will not save even growing in a garden flowerpot - if you move it to the house for the winter, the plant will begin to suffer from dry air and still wither.
The ideal seedling should be between 2 and 4 years old. Grown from seeds should be at least 15 cm, and obtained by cuttings - about 25 cm in height.
Planting a rhododendron in open ground
- Site selection. Despite the fact that rhododendrons grow with might and main in Russian forests, they should not be considered indestructible plants. In order for a tree to please with a lush and bright flowering, a place for it must be chosen carefully. First, there should be no drafts. Secondly, the lighting should be moderate - not too shaded, but at midday the sun should bypass this place. And, thirdly, it should not be a lowland (the depth of the groundwater is from 2 m).
- Priming. It is so laid down by nature - the more magnificently the culture blooms, the more nutritious the soil it needs.In addition, the substrate should be light, quickly absorbing melt and rainwater. The acidity of rhododendron loves high.
- Plants are neighbors. Some trees take up a lot of nutrients and moisture from the soil. Do not plant a rhododendron in their shade, the bush will not be able to resist such a strong competitor and wither. The enemies of this culture include: birch, linden, maple, weeping willow, alder. If the tree is already growing on the site, a large piece of dense covering material can be laid in the planting pit for the rhododendron, isolating the roots of the plant from the sides and bottom.
- Time. This crop is planted in spring (if a seedling with open roots), or from spring to early autumn (if the plant is grown and bought in a container - a pot).
The dimensions of the planting pit for this shrub: 70 cm deep and 50 cm wide. A hole is dug out either in the fall, or at least a month before planting. Drainage 15-20 cm is laid at the bottom
It is important that lime or other deoxidizing substances do not get inside during work.
The soil taken out of the pit is enriched with coniferous litter, deciduous soil and peat. Alternatively, you can buy a ready-made package of azalea land. After that, add a complex mineral fertilizer (70 g per bush).
Plant tall varieties at 2 meter intervals. Stunted - 75 cm from each other.
After planting the rhododendron, the soil is carefully compacted, and after that the bush is generously watered. If you want to mulch the area, use pine chips or dry needles. This mulch additionally acidifies the soil.
Bush care
Immediately after landing. In the first 2-3 years, pinch off the buds. Of course, I want the rhododendron to bloom right away. But this flowering will not be so bright and lush, and the plant will spend a lot of energy on it. It is better to save them so that the bush takes root better.
Watering. In summer, the bush is watered 2-3 times a week. But if the weather is not hot, it is better to skip some watering - the roots of the plant are afraid of stagnant moisture. Is your water not well water, but tap water? Collect rainwater. Or soften the existing one with citric acid or natural vinegar (10 g of substance per liter). Do not use ice cold water, only heated water. Give 1 bush from 2 liters.
Weeding. The roots of the rhododendron are not deep, and the weeds (even small ones) seriously “eat up” the bush. Therefore, they need to be constantly weeded out.
But the hoe should be handled carefully: it cannot be driven deep. By the way, mulch can also protect the plant from weeds, but its layer should be from 5 cm.
Nutrition
It is introduced in two steps. For the first time - in early spring, even before flowering. A bush is given either 10 kg of compost or manure (well-rotted), or 40 g of dry complex purchased "mineral water" for azaleas (more nitrogen, less potassium and phosphorus). The second time, top dressing is applied in late autumn, when preparing the bush for winter. This time rhododendron needs a little more phosphorus, a little less potassium, less lime and chlorine. By the way! It is better to carry out such feeding not annually, but once every 2-3 years.
Pruning. Most rhododendrons are beautifully shaped on their own, and only old, overgrown branches need to be cut (but not thicker than 4 cm). And so that young shoots do not grow beyond measure, their central bud should be pinched right away. If the tree is old, cut off the shoots by 35 cm in the spring, carefully covering all the cuts with garden pitch. The cut should be done near the sleeping buds.
Wintering
When preparing the Daurian rhododendron for wintering, in late autumn the bush must be well watered.
This bush has high winter hardiness, so it does not need shelter. It is necessary to "get confused" only with a young shrub, planted for a couple of years, which has not yet had time to take root well.
A young bush hides in a wooden house and wraps itself up with roofing material. But this should be done not in autumn, but in winter, when the temperature drops to -10. This "dress" is removed already at the beginning of March.
A mature tree will have enough watering in the fall, as well as thick mulching of the trunk circle (with the obligatory cover of the root collar). It will withstand temperature drops even down to -30.
Shrub planting
Planting and caring for Daurian rhododendron requires careful selection of place and accuracy, but in general, the plant can be called unpretentious.
Site selection and soil preparation
The place must be chosen especially carefully, since the plant can live up to 50 years and is not too supportive of frequent transplants. Therefore, the optimal location would be a lit area, but not in direct sunlight, protected from the wind. The north side of the site or the neighborhood with conifers is suitable. It is optimal to choose a flat surface where there is no stagnation and accumulation of ground or other waters. The soil should not be heavy or dense, the optimal acid-base balance is from 4.5 to 5.
Important! The transplant is best done in early spring.
Pit preparation
It is necessary to apply mineral fertilizer to the soil, and then prepare the pits: their width and depth should be about 60-70 cm.The distance between the bushes varies from plant variety and can range from 70 cm to 2 m
When planting, it is important to monitor the root collar, it should remain above the surface for a couple of centimeters
After planting, the plant is watered and mulched with coniferous needles or peat.
The beauty of wild rosemary is the best reward for all efforts
Care
In early spring and after the end of flowering, mineral fertilizers are applied, the soil is not loosened deeply, the weeds must be removed. If there are signs of a lack of moisture, watering is necessary, and it is advisable to maintain a layer of mulch all year round. In the first year after planting, wild rosemary is not allowed to bloom, this allows you to grow a stronger and more developed plant.
Important! Pruning is done either in early spring or after flowering and follows the standard rules for this procedure. If the rhododendron is properly cared for, then it is not very prone to disease.
However, at the first sign, the best solution would be to remove all affected shoots and burn, and process the bush depending on the manifestations of problems.
If the rhododendron is properly cared for, then it is not very prone to disease. However, at the first sign, the best solution would be to remove all affected shoots and burn, and process the bush depending on the manifestations of the problems.
Ledum is quite frost-hardy and tolerates cold up to -45 ° С. The feasibility of sheltering its root system for the winter is calculated based on the climatic conditions of the growing zone, however, if necessary, standard methods of shelter are used, according to agricultural technology, with a high hillock at the base of the root, leaves and spruce branches. Shoots can be bent to the ground.
Daurian rhododendron is a very beautiful and peculiar plant with spectacular flowers. Culture has beneficial properties and heals many diseases. It can be planted in the northern strip of Russia, as it easily tolerates frosts, but requires special care.
Diseases and pests
Shrubs of this family are susceptible to fungal diseases. This is due to high humidity both in the air and in the ground, as well as poor air permeability of the earth. In this case, dark spots appear on the plant. Various preparations containing copper, for example, Bordeaux liquid, will help to cope with this. It is necessary to spray the bush with an excess, preferably in the evening.
Important! The ingress of moisture on the plant in sunny weather leads to severe burns. If necessary, spraying is repeated after a week.
If necessary, spraying is repeated after a week.
To protect rhododendrons from insect pests such as spider mites, weevils and others, the use of karbofos and similar preparations is suitable.
Rhododendron The Hague is perhaps the best plant that can decorate gardens and farmsteads in the changing Russian climate. Planting and caring for young seedlings is within the power of even a novice florist.
Yakushiman rhododendron - planting and care
This plant has good winter hardiness, therefore it is recommended for growing in the middle zone of our country.
It is important to remember the rules of maintenance, because improper care can destroy the shrub.
Landing
The best time to plant the Yakushiman rhododendron is the end of April, when the soil is completely warmed up by the sun. You can also plant in autumn, at the beginning of September, when there is still no frost.
Azalea does not tolerate direct sunlight. Also a dangerous place for him will be an open place subject to winds. The best location is partial shade.
When planting, do not deepen the neck of the root, otherwise decay of the seedling may occur. It is necessary to ensure that the root system is 3-4 cm above the soil.
You can plant the rhododendron with a separate bush, or you can create a group composition. Such evergreen shrubs will decorate the garden.
Priming
Azaleas prefer loose, sour, humus-rich soils. You can prepare the soil yourself. To do this, you need to take two parts of peat land, two parts of coniferous land and one part of river sand. When landing on the bottom of the hole, it is advisable to put drainage (expanded clay, pebbles, sand) in order to avoid stagnant water.
Watering
Yakumashinsky rhododendron is hygrophilous, so it is important to monitor the amount of watering. Watering is done 2-3 times a week, in dry weather it is recommended to spray
Temperature regime
Frost resistance is a characteristic feature of this plant. It is able to withstand cold temperatures up to - 30 C. But it should be remembered that young seedlings need to be covered for the winter.
Fertilizer and feeding
For proper growth, rhododendron should be fertilized 3 times per season. The first time - before flowering (20 grams of fertilizer for feeding azaleas per liter of water), the second time - immediately after it (with the same fertilizer), the third time - at the end of August (25 grams of superphosphate and 15 grams of potassium sulfate). The third feeding is necessary to ripen the bark and prevent the formation of young shoots.
Bloom
The flowering of the Yakushiman rhododendron is unusually beautiful, abundant. Flowers collected in inflorescences sprinkle the entire shrub. It starts at the end of May and lasts until the end of June.
Pruning
This plant does not need special pruning.
But there are situations when it is important to do this, for example, remove dead wood and dry branches
After flowering, it is recommended to cut off the faded inflorescences for a variety of flowers in the following year.
Transfer
Azalea transplantation is often painless at any age, but it should be remembered that the earthen lump should not be disturbed so as not to damage the root system. The best time to transplant is spring and autumn.
Reproduction methods
There are several ways which one to choose - each gardener decides for himself.
Seeds. Seeds are planted in January-February. Sowing takes place superficially into the nutrient soil. Seedlings appear within a week.
On a permanent place of growth, seedlings are planted only after a year.
Cuttings. To obtain cuttings, it is necessary to cut off a twig 5 cm in size and having 3-4 internodes. Cuttings are placed in peat-sandy soil. Within a month, rooting takes place and shoots and leaves appear.
Layers. For this method of reproduction in the spring, choose the lower branch, cut it slightly and submerge it under the soil.
It is important to water the cuttings and sprinkle them with nutritious soil. By mid-July, the cuttings will take root and can be cut off from the mother bush and transplanted to another place.
By division. An adult bush is dug out of the ground and divided into parts. Each part is planted separately. After 2-3 years, the bush will fully recover and acquire its decorative effect.
Wintering
Yakushimansky rhododendron perfectly tolerates low temperatures, so it does not require shelter for the winter.
But young shoots in the first few years after planting must be covered.
To protect young bushes from frost, cover them with spruce branches, and as the temperature drops, pour dry foliage on top.
Caring for adult plants in the fall is as follows:
1. The last watering should be done before the first severe frosts to prevent dehydration of the root system.
2.In the fall, sprinkle mulch (peat, needles, dry leaves) with a layer of 10-15 cm near the bush to protect the small roots from the cold.
Diseases and pests
A plant in a good habitat is resistant to disease.
Under unfavorable conditions (stagnant water at the roots, lack of nitrogen and potassium), mixed chlorosis can develop, in which yellow spots appear on the leaves.
Excess moisture should be eliminated and the plant should be sprayed with a solution of ferrous sulfate at a concentration of 7.5 g / l.
With a lack of nutrients in the soil, red spots appear along the leaf veins. The plant needs to be fed with ammonium sulfate or nitrate or potassium nitrate.
In conditions of severe sudden frosts, leaf necrosis (death) may begin. As a preventive measure, do not rush to remove the winter shelter from the rhododendron bush.
In the open field, dahurian rhododendron can be attacked by pests.
Most often it is a "specialized" rhododendron bug, leaving small discolored spots on the leaves. Spraying with diazinon will relieve it.
A mealybug can settle on the rhododendron. It is eliminated by karbofos (spraying 3-4 times a year).
The furrowed weevil eats bark, leaf edges, buds, buds, flowers. The bush needs to be watered with the karbofos emulsion, pollinate the plant with it. Bazudin, diazinon and furadan also help.
If a spider mite or an Asian garden beetle settles on a plant, diazinon helps.
Narrow-winged miner moth is expelled by fumigating the plant with sulfur.
Diseases and pests
Dahurian rhododendron is susceptible to two diseases.
- Red spots. They appear on the leaves of a shrub and are located along its veins. Their appearance signals a lack of nutrients in the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to feed with nitrogen fertilizer.
- Chlorosis is the appearance of yellow spots on the surface of the leaves. Their appearance means that there is stagnant moisture in the soil, as well as a lack of nitrogen and potassium. Watering is made more rare and special feeding is used.
Sometimes the Daurian rhododendron is attacked by pests:
- furrowed weevil - to get rid of it, use "Bazudin", "Furadan" or "Karbofos";
- spider mites, rhododendron bugs and Asian garden beetles are eliminated by spraying the shrubs with Diazinon solution;
- spraying with "Karbofos" will save the plant from the mealybug;
- fumigation of shrubs with sulfur eliminates the narrow-winged moth-miner.
For information on how to properly care for rhododendron, see the next video.
Breeding methods for rhododendron
To obtain new rhododendrons, you can use both the seed method and a number of vegetative ones. These include the separation of cuttings, dividing the bush, as well as cuttings and grafting. The most common method is the formation of layering.
Growing from seeds
Seeds are sown in containers filled with soil composed of wet peat or heather soil mixed with sand (3: 1). The seeds are placed superficially, and then sprinkled with a thin layer of washed sand. The containers are covered with glass or a bag and transferred to light. Before sprouting, the container must be ventilated, condensation removed, and the moisture level of the soil must be maintained. The first shoots will appear within a month. When they have a pair of full-fledged leaves, they are seated at a distance of 2 × 3 cm.By replanting such sprouts, you can deepen them to the level of the cotyledon leaves. This will allow the plants to form more robust roots.
In the first year, such rhododendrons are kept in a greenhouse, where the temperature remains low. The next season, they are moved into open ground, using a mixture of garden soil with a sandy-peat substrate for planting. Bushes obtained from seeds develop rather slowly and will bloom only in the 6th year of life or later.
Propagation by cuttings
Only a fraction of rhododendron species can be successfully propagated by cuttings. Partially woody shoots can be used for cuttings. Their length should be about 6-8 cm. The lower leaves are removed from the segments, and then the slices are immersed in a solution that stimulates root formation, keeping them in it for about 12-16 hours. For planting, peat-sandy soil is used (3: 1). The planted cuttings are covered with transparent jars or bags.
The rooting time depends on the type of rhododendron. Deciduous varieties take about 1.5 months to take root, but in evergreens, this can take 2-3 times longer. Growing established cuttings is carried out by moving them into boxes filled with a mixture of pine needles with peat (1: 2). Such seedlings spend the winter in a bright, but rather cool (about 10 degrees, but not less than 8 degrees) place. In the spring, containers with plantings are added in the garden. In this form, they will spend another couple of years, and only after that they can be transplanted to the chosen place.
Reproduction by layering
Cutting is the easiest and fastest way to get a new rhododendron. In the spring, for this, a flexible young shoot is chosen, located in the lower part of the bush. It is carefully bent down by placing it in a pre-prepared groove 15 cm deep. The middle of the branch is fixed in the groove, and then it is covered with a mixture of garden soil with peat. The upper part of the inclined shoot remains above the ground. She is tied to a vertical support. Now, watering the bush, it will be necessary to moisten the area where the cuttings were dug. In the fall or spring of next year, it is separated from the parent bush and transplanted to the right place. Deciduous rhododendrons reproduce most easily in this way.
Agricultural technology for growing rhododendron in the garden
Rhododendrons are best planted in the light shade of trees, although they thrive in light as well. The proximity of rhododendrons next to conifers is very successful, which create a favorable habitat for them. Group plantings of rhododendrons look very impressive, which can be monochromatic or composed of plants with different colors of flowers. The combination of tones creates a wonderful decorative effect. When grown in the garden, rhododendrons are perfectly combined with lilacs, barberry, Japanese quince. Compositions of different varieties are good, having a different appearance (height) of the bush and color of flowers.
All rhododendrons grow slowly, but are durable and able to maintain decorativeness for decades.
For successful growth, it is important to comply with the growing conditions for rhododendrons. They need acidic (pH 4-5), nutritious, rich, loose, air and watertight soil, they do not tolerate stagnant water
Peat soil is best suited for rhododendrons. Plants do not like chlorine and lime in the soil, they absolutely do not tolerate neutral and even more alkaline soils.
The root system of rhododendrons is shallow, compact, so loosening must be done very carefully, digging up the trunk circles is excluded. Correct agricultural technology for growing rhododendrons provides for the mandatory mulching with a layer of crushed peat or tree bark or coniferous litter, which has an acidic reaction
This will help protect the soil from drying out.
Planting and care in garden culture
Choosing a place. Rhododendron thrives in the middle lane and more northern regions.Requires a shaded area.
Landing time. The best planting time is in spring, before flowering begins.
The soil. The main requirements for the composition of the soil: good air and moisture permeability, sufficient nutritional value, acid reaction.
To ensure such characteristics, peat, composted needles and coarse river sand are mixed in equal amounts.
Landing. At the bottom of the landing pit, a fifteen-centimeter drainage layer (crushed stone, small pebbles, brick battle) is placed.
Then, filling the hole with the prepared soil mixture, place the plant, making sure that its root collar protrudes slightly from the ground.
After planting, watering is carried out and the soil around the "new settler" is sprinkled with fallen pine needles, or peat, sawdust, and tree bark.
You should not loosen the soil, since the root system is shallow and the thin roots are easily damaged.
Preparing for winter. In areas with frosty winters, a seasonal shelter is prepared from dry foliage and spruce legs.
Growth and flowering. Daursky develops slowly, partially sheds its leaves by winter, blooms, as a rule, in the fifth or sixth year of life.
Formative pruning is sometimes carried out in May, but such an operation further slows down the overall development of the bush.
To prolong flowering and to optimize growth, blooming buds should be removed.
Watering and spraying. The plant needs high humidity, so it needs to be watered and sprayed regularly, with soft water, preferably thawed or rainwater. During the flowering season, water spray should not fall on the flowers, otherwise dark spots will appear on their delicate bright petals.
Top dressing. General fertilization is carried out annually or every two years (depending on the condition of the plant): a bucket of compost and a bucket of peat are applied shallowly around the bush.
In the main phases of development, they are supported by the following dressings:
In early May, in the midst of flowering, a tablespoon of potassium sulfate and the same amount of urea are dissolved in a bucket of water. One bush takes three liters of such a solution.
At the end of May, by the end of flowering, one plant - three to five liters of a solution of this concentration: a tablespoon of potassium sulfate and the same amount of fertilizer for flowering plants in a bucket of water.
At the end of flowering, in June, a tablespoon of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate are stirred in a bucket of water. The application rate is 3-5 liters per bush.
Reproduction methods
For propagation of wild rosemary, both vegetative and seed methods are used.
Growing from seeds
Under natural conditions, most often such a shrub grows from seeds. In order to collect seeds with your own hands, you need to pluck the right amount of ripened small seed pods. If they are not collected in time, then they will crack independently from the bottom up, and the seeds will spill out onto the ground. These boxes look like very small chandeliers.
The collection of seed is carried out in the autumn, and its sowing only at the beginning of spring. Take a container and fill it with a substrate of sand and garden loose earth. The soil mixture must be acidic, moist and loose. Spread the seed evenly over the surface of the substrate and press it just a little into the soil mixture. Cover the crops with glass or foil and place in a place where it is always cool. Provide crops with systematic watering and ventilation. The first seedlings can be seen in about 3.5-4 weeks. Seedlings should be cut into individual peat pots when they grow up and get stronger. Instead, the seedlings can be planted in a larger box, with a fairly large distance between the bushes, which will help avoid root tangling.
Growing from cuttings
If you already have wild rosemary in your garden, then it will be much easier to propagate it by layering. Select several stems and bend them to the surface of the soil, in which a depression of about 20 centimeters is made in advance.Fix the shoot in this position and sprinkle it with soil, while the top must be above the surface of the site. After the cuttings have grown roots, it should be separated from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.
Dividing the bush
If the bush is overgrown, then in the spring when transplanting it can be divided into several parts. Dig up the bush and remove all the soil from its roots, and then cut the bush into several divisions. Take the charcoal powder and sprinkle it on the cuts. Immediately after the plant is divided, parts of it should be planted in a permanent place.
Propagation by cuttings
Cuttings are harvested in the summer, for this they use semi-lignified stems
Please note that each cutting should have 2 or 3 leaf plates. Treat the lower cut with a growth stimulant solution
For rooting, cuttings are planted in containers filled with fertile and loose soil mixture. Those leaf plates that are close to the surface of the substrate should be shortened or removed entirely. It will take time for the cuttings to give roots and get stronger, in this regard, they are planted in a permanent place only with the onset of the spring period.
