Breeding options for sedum

Description

First, we will introduce you to this plant. The main decorative effect is provided by multiple branches with amazing leaves, painted in a variety of color options - from green (with its various shades) to blueberry, and some varieties have leaves with original stripes. A cascade of well-groomed plants with lush foliage resembles a magical waterfall. Tradescantia blooms with nondescript flowers, which by their appearance do not particularly inspire contemplators, therefore many design experts recommend picking the buds.

Modern breeders are constantly working on the creation of new scenic Tradescantia varieties, the demand for which continues to grow, thanks to simple plant care and simple breeding methods.

How to root cuttings?

Different plants root in different ways, many houseplants root easily in water, and many woody plants take root in soil.

Rooting cuttings in water

Take cuttings from the mother plant 10-16 cm.

Using a sharp knife or pruner, cut just below where the leaf attaches to the stem, called a knot. Roots grow most easily from this location.

If you leave part of the stem under the knot, it can rot.

Remove the bottom leaves, but keep the top ones, no more than three.

The part of the cuttings that will be below the surface of the water should not have leaves.

It is also necessary to remove all flowers and buds, if any, otherwise the flowers will try to grow into a seed or may use the nutrients that are needed for the cutting.

Several cuttings can be placed together in one container.

Be sure to add fresh water as needed until the cuttings are fully rooted.

Rooting usually takes place after 3-4 weeks, but some plants take longer.

When the roots are 2.5 to 5 cm in length or more, the cuttings are ready to be transplanted into a pot of soil.

The pot must be the right size for this root system.

They need to be transplanted into moist soil.

If the cuttings have grown too tall during this time, it is better to prune them so that the plant is more compact and dense.

How to root root cuttings

Plant thick pieces of root vertically, with the cut end up, in a pot of soil.

Place the cuttings pots in a plastic bag and cover the soil with plastic wrap.

Avoid placing the cuttings in direct sunlight, where heat builds up under the plastic.

Check from time to time to keep the soil moist.

It takes several weeks for the shoots to appear.

When they finally appear, remove the plastic.

Once the shoot has a small mass of roots, transplant it into a pot filled with good quality soil.

Place the plant in sunlight and keep the soil moist at all times.

Step by step instructions

Most often, at home, phalaenopsis reproduces vegetatively. The plant has only one point of growth, but you can slightly "tweak" the nature.

Sitting "babies" is the most common way of reproduction of phalaenopsis. The offspring is separated from the mother plant 1.5–2 months after flowering. The procedure most often takes place in the spring. Growth buds are formed in the axils of the leaves or on the peduncles of orchids at the age of two years, with at least 4 healthy leaves. Sometimes they form on faded peduncles no older than one and a half years.

Often, phalaenopsis at home forms "babies" without additional stimulation

The appearance of "babies" can be stimulated in several ways:

• The difference between the daytime (28–30 ° C) and night (18–20 ° C) temperature of the content. At the same time, high air humidity (70% or more) and daylight hours with a duration of at least 12 hours are necessarily ensured.
• "Sunbathing". In early spring, the orchid is left in direct sunlight for an hour a day. When a slight purple “tan” appears on the leaves, it’s not scary, but if it changes color to ink purple, and there are still no “babies”, stop the procedure.
• Artificial "drought". The plant is not watered for 12-14 days, protecting the orchid from direct sunlight. Moistening of the substrate is resumed 2-3 days after the roots acquire a silvery-gray hue. Thus, the flower is made to believe that his death has come, in the face of which the instinct of procreation is activated in him.
• The use of fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. The method is rather risky. Orchids do not like this macroelement too much, so there is a real risk of ruining the mother specimen. Even if he gives a "baby", he will definitely not have to wait for his flowering this year.

Phalaenopsis "babies" are planted in a substrate based on pine bark, but with a smaller fraction than for adult plants

As for when exactly it is necessary to separate the "baby" from the mother plant, there is no consensus among flower growers. Most believe that you need to wait for at least one root to appear. Others are of the opinion that this greatly depletes the "parent", so they cut off the "offspring" when the first pair of leaves appears.

1. Separate the baby from the mother plant. Process the sections. Dry in the open air for 24 hours.
2. Fill transparent cups with a mixture of finely chopped sphagnum moss with pine bark and fern rhizomes (1: 3: 1). The more uniform the soil is, the better. It is necessary to make 3-4 drainage holes in containers.
3. Moisten the substrate. Plant young orchids in the ground and place the containers in a home mini-greenhouse, florarium or homemade greenhouse. Maintain a constant temperature of 23–25 ° C and bright, diffused light.
4. As it dries, moisten the substrate with a solution of a root formation stimulator - Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Zircon, Epin (3-5 ml per liter of water). Air the plantings daily for 5-7 minutes.
5. If the bottom pair of leaves turns yellow, this is normal. You cannot cut them off - the forming roots receive nutrition from them. When the time comes, they dry up and fall off on their own.
6. Wait until the roots are 4–5 cm long, then transplant the phalaenopsis into adult soil. The procedure is not quick, it usually takes about a year.

Alternative way:

1. Pour water warmed to a temperature slightly above room temperature into a glass. You can add a tablet of succinic acid to it.
2. In the morning, place the cut and dried "baby" so that the bottom is located at a distance of 1-2 mm from the water. You can, for example, take a piece of styrofoam, cut a hole of the appropriate diameter and put it on a glass.
3. After 6 hours, remove the "baby" from the water. Dry it outdoors the rest of the time.
4. Continue manipulating daily until roots appear. The water should be fresh every day. Then proceed as described above.

It is possible to root the "offspring" of phalaenopsis over water, about the same reanimate orchids that have lost their roots

Flower care

Consider how to care for a croton flower at home. It is not enough to plant a plant - you need to know how to properly care for it, so that it grows and pleases your eyes. Let's analyze some of the nuances of croton care.

Croton juice is poisonous. Therefore, when working with it, be sure to protect your hands with rubber gloves, and wear a medical mask on your face. If the juice gets on the mucous membranes, immediately rinse them with water and consult a doctor.

• The culture loves humid air, when dry it withers.This means that you need to spray it from time to time from a spray bottle and wipe dust from the leaves with a damp cotton rag. In the summer - once a month - give the flower a warm shower, while covering the soil.
• Never put Croton in places where there are drafts and do not water it with cold water.
• Croton is one of those plants whose leaves can take on strange shapes. Therefore, the grown plant may differ from the "parent" - don't let that scare you.
• The plant rarely blooms, and its flowers do not differ in special beauty. However, this process weakens the plant. Therefore, if you do not want to propagate it by seeds, then remove the inflorescences as soon as they appear.

Croton transplant

This perennial plant needs to be transplanted frequently, because without transplanting the stem will become bare and the leaves will decrease in size. Young crotons need to be replanted every year. Older plants are transplanted once every three years.

Croton transplant is planned for April or May.

1. The transplant should be done carefully, without damaging the roots. Having damaged the root system, you will have to wait for a long recovery of the flower.
2. After pulling the plant out of the container along with the earthen clod, some of the soil must be removed. And some will remain on the root system.
3. The container is selected for the flower deep and slightly wider than in which the plant grew.
4. Be sure to lay out drainage from small building materials at the bottom of the container. The soil mixture should consist of: turf, sand and two portions of leafy soil. Crushed charcoal is added to this composition.
5. Sand, leafy soil and sod are disinfected before laying in a container. This is done in a water bath or in an oven.

There are just a few rules to keep the leaves so extraordinarily beautiful and not fall off:

• Put croton in a pot on the windowsills of the east or west direction. Lighting should be bright, but diffuse. With a lack of sunlight, the leaves will lose their brightness and saturation.
• When the plant is exposed to direct sunlight, the window is shaded so that the leaves do not burn.
• You need to keep the flower in the summer months at a temperature of 24-26 degrees. With the arrival of the cold months of the year, the plant is transferred to a cooler room or the temperature is lowered to 20 degrees.

Croton pot

Croton is one of those plants that are busy growing roots in a large pot until they cover its entire area. Therefore, the pot should be small, no matter how strange it may look in comparison with the size of the bush growing from it.

The size of the pot should freely accommodate all the roots of the flower + 1 cm of free space around for the soil. Clay and plastic pots are suitable for codiaum

The presence of a drainage hole is important, stagnant water is the cause of death

Humidity

The tropical croton plant requires high humidity in the air. A good figure of 80% that can be achieved in a room. You can often spray with settled water. You can wipe the leaves with a damp cloth every day.

A large pallet is also used, into which water is poured, pebbles, sphagnum are placed, and a container with a plant is placed on top of a small pedestal. Another plant is placed near the aquariums. All these activities will help create the desired percentage of moisture.

Watering

Croton is watered so that the soil is not dry and not waterlogged. The plant does not like both droughts and excess moisture. The water is taken at room temperature.

Top dressing

Mineral complex fertilizer is applied every two weeks as irrigation. For this, mineral additives are used for crops with brightly colored foliage. Fertilized from early April to mid-October.

Pruning

Sanitary and planned pruning is carried out to the plant. In order for the croton to grow into a lush bush, you need to pinch the top. Then the side shoots will begin to vigorously form new leaves.

Diseases and pests

If you do not care for the plant, forget to water or, conversely, fill with water, then root or gray rot is formed. It can be cured using fungicidal preparations. Sometimes you can find a spider mite on croton or scale insects. Spraying with insecticidal preparations is used.

Why do tradescantia leaves dry

No matter how unpretentious this deciduous beauty is, problems can still arise when growing it. Most often they relate to the appearance of the plant and are associated with improper care:

• if the leaves begin to turn yellow from the edges to the center, and then dry altogether, this indicates a burn of the leaf plate by direct sunlight;
• long elongated shoots and rare small leaves indicate a lack of light in winter. If there is enough light, and the shoots are still rare, then the soil has exhausted its trace elements, so it's time to apply fertilizers. Depletion also occurs due to abundant growth in a small pot, there is simply no room for roots, which is why the shoots grow damaged and weak;
• if a flower stops growing, stops sprouting, does not throw out buds for flowering, it seems that it just froze in place, the reason is in the temperature of the tradescantia content. This state is called stagnation - inaction. It occurs when temperature conditions appear that prevent the plant from continuing its natural development. In summer, this is when it is above 35 ° С, and in autumn - below 16 ° С;
• the roots of the plant are very sensitive to excess and stagnation of moisture. Rhizomes quickly rot, giving external signals - leaves and stems begin to turn black. Excessive moisture can be caused by over-watering, over-watering, and poor drainage performance. To confirm the "diagnosis", you should take out the earthen lump and examine the roots for rot. It is necessary to remove all damaged parts of the plant and replace the drainage layer.

Note! Tradescantia is fed from early spring to late summer. Complex mineral fertilizers and organic matter alternate every two weeks

The concentration of baits is used 50% of that indicated on the package. In winter, feeding the plant is a bad idea - it can ruin the root system.

Thus, there is nothing difficult in growing a flower. It grows quickly, multiplies easily, survives in all conditions, even in a bottle. Isn't it a florist's dream ?!

Selection of pot and soil for tradescantia

The root system of the plant is thin and not too densely overgrown. The pot for her is not big, let it be wider than deeper. The surface makes it possible to start up more shoots.

For your information! The choice in favor of ceramics can play a cruel joke with hypothermia of the flower, if you keep it on the veranda or balcony in the summer.

The best pot for tradescantia will still be plastic. Drainage holes and a pallet are required. Expanded clay is better suited as drainage.

In the ground, Tradescantia is not picky. It can grow in water, sand, moss and even outdoors in season. The best mixture for it would be deciduous and humus with the addition of vermiculite or sand for looseness.

When and how to propagate the host by dividing the bush

By dividing the bush, only an adult, healthy plant is propagated. The larger the bush, the more the cut will turn out. To do this, dig up the entire bush. One plot should have several rosettes with leaves. They are planted at the same depth as the parent plant. The distance between plantings should be kept about 30 cm. For good survival, the planted plants are watered abundantly and mulched around the soil with sawdust or dry grass.

When to share to host? Best time to divide a bush:

• early May;
• any summer month;
• beginning of September.

Important! When dividing in the fall, minimal harm is done to the plant, since the root system is at a dormant stage.You can plant a bush when it is fully ripe

A clear sign of the necessary seating is when the center of the crown begins to shrink

You can plant the bush when it is fully ripe. A clear sign of the necessary seating is when the center of the crown begins to shrink.

The bush can take up to five years to form. A young plant does not show its varietal characteristics; they appear as it grows. Therefore, frequent transplants are undesirable, since you can not wait for the varietal characteristics of the hosts. The first time you can divide the bush in 4-5 years.

How to split host

Choose the right one from the garden tools. It is better to work with a large bush with a shovel, with a small one - with a knife with teeth; with a large root, use a hacksaw for metal (the cut is treated with ash or crushed coal in order to prevent decay processes).

Before removing the plant from the ground, cut a circle around it with a diameter of 10 cm if the bush is small, and 30-35 cm if the bush is large. Then they pry it under the root with a shovel and carefully remove the plant with a lump of earth.

The host must be divided carefully so as to damage the root system as little as possible. Small roots are neatly separated by hands, large seedlings are divided with a knife with cloves.

Important! You need to cut not the root, but the base. Slow-growing varieties are best divided in large parts, and well-growing varieties will grow even from one outlet

It is undesirable to divide the whole bush into more than four parts.

Slow-growing varieties are best divided in large parts, and well-growing varieties will even grow from one outlet. It is undesirable to divide the entire bush into more than four parts.

Roots

Important! To see the entire root system, it can be washed with water before dividing. Plots are examined for damage and disease, suspicious areas are removed

Plots are examined for damage and disease, suspicious areas are removed.

The soil is prepared either in the fall or a month before planting: they dig up and add fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers are applied to the poor soil.

Delenki are planted at the same depth at which the parent plant grew. A little wood ash is poured into the bottom of the hole. The distance between plantings should be kept about 30 cm. For good survival, the planted plants are abundantly watered and mulched around the soil with sawdust or dry grass.

At first, you can use mullein infusion as a top dressing. Be sure to periodically loosen the soil and remove weeds.

Note! Delenki should not be planted in the old place, since the seedlings will take root for a long time and will most likely die. You can get delenki without digging up the whole bush

To do this, choose one or more strong sockets.

They are dug in from the outside and carefully separated from the mother bush. The resulting void is filled with fertilizer, the plant is watered abundantly

The resulting cut is planted first on a prepared bed for growing, and then transplanted to a permanent place

You can get delenki without digging up the entire bush. To do this, choose one or more strong sockets.

They are dug in from the outside and carefully separated from the mother bush. The resulting void is filled with fertilizer, the plant is watered abundantly

The resulting cut is planted first on a prepared bed for growing, and then transplanted to a permanent place.

Division

Rooting cuttings

During the preparation of green cuttings, the leaves are not completely cut off, only the lower part is freed from them, which, when planted, will be in the soil. The remaining leaves will serve as a survival marker. With their help, it will be possible to find out how it was possible to root forsythia with cuttings: if they darken, dry out, then the roots did not appear.

For planting cuttings, light soil with good air permeability is needed. Moreover, it should not be sour. River sand or perlite is added to the fertile land.The place is chosen slightly shaded, without direct sunlight.

You can root forsythia with cuttings, both in the open field and at home. In both cases, it will not hurt to place the cuttings in a solution of a rooting stimulator for several hours.

Cuttings in a seedling box

Landing is carried out, observing certain conditions:

• the distance between the cuttings is kept at 5-7 cm;
• planted at a slight angle;
• deepen to the second or third kidney.

Cuttings for rooting will need a mini-greenhouse, you can cover with a jar. From time to time, the plants are ventilated. The soil in the greenhouse should always be moist to the depth of the seedling planting. The roots usually appear after a month. In the year of rooting, the shoots are not moved to another place. If necessary, they are transferred, without fail preserving a clod of earth.

For the winter, the root system of seedlings is insulated with dry leaves, spruce branches. Plants in seedling boxes are taken out into a cool room. Strong seedlings with good root systems can be planted outdoors if they have been pre-hardened.

Useful Tips

If you want to propagate poinsettia, choose the strongest and healthiest bushes available to you for the role of the mother plant. Use optimal propagation times and try to provide the cuttings with the best rooting conditions. To do this, carefully consider the choice of substrate and watering method.

Usually it is advised to root the plant in a mixture of peat and sand, but this can also be done in a regular glass of water. But there is a slight subtlety here - the container must be opaque, the roots of this plant do not form in the light. If there is no opaque container, you can simply wrap the container in thick black paper or plastic wrap. The same requirement applies to a vessel for rooting in a soil mixture - you cannot use transparent plastic cups, you need to choose as dense as possible in color, or use small pots for seedlings.
To quickly get a beautiful plant with lush leaves, do not plant cuttings one by one, but place 5-6 pieces in one container. To avoid unnecessary variegation, choose cuttings of the same variety, then the group will look like one very elegant plant. If you grow cuttings in separate containers, after rooting, they can be very carefully placed in one vessel without damaging the young and fragile roots, giving them a natural look, as if the bush had grown naturally.
From cuttings of plants with different colors, you can create a large expressive group. To do this, you can place colorful rooted poinsettia cuttings in separate containers in a long decorative box or container, or plant the plants directly into the ground, not forgetting to organize a very high-quality drainage at the bottom of the box. When bracts are formed, the composition will take on a finished look and will delight you with its attractiveness for a long time.
In order for an adult plant grown from cuttings to have compact dimensions and branch well, growing seedlings need to be regularly pinched and shaped, not letting things go by chance.
If you do not want to get a plant that is bare from below with long, thin and weak shoots, keep the cuttings, and then the rooted plant in the brightest place, but not in direct sunlight.

If there is not enough light, the plant will become weak, rickety and does not form beautiful large bracts.
The same applies to sufficient timely feeding - it is important not to overfeed the plant with nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise it will grow, but it will not bloom. Feed your cuttings and mature plants with poinsettia mixes.

Like any other indoor flower, poinsettia loves good care and really needs your close attention.Only in this case will it multiply well and delight you with especially large and bright bracts.

Garden Tradescantia: planting and care in the open field

Garden Tradescantia is very beautiful and does not at all look like its indoor relative. The garden option is a perennial shrub up to half a meter high with thick long leaves and many inflorescences at the ends of the shoots. The flowers are curly at the edges, bunches of white stamens stand out brightly on the dark purple and purple petals. Some types of garden tradescantia are ground cover.

Important! Like indoor tradescantia, gardening also boasts a variety of colors for its latent leaves. Some varieties have yellow, bluish and purple leaves.

The color of the inflorescences is in lilac and violet shades, and flowering pleases all summer until the very cold

In care, the garden beauty is unpretentious and hardy enough. Loves partial shade, too bright light does not allow this plant to fully bloom. How to pinch Tradescantia so as not to harm its growth? This should be done twice a year. Shoots without peduncles are pinched before and after flowering. In the spring, pinching provokes active flowering, in the fall, preparing the plant for wintering.

With the onset of cold weather, the plant is cut off. Shoots should be left no more than 10 cm long. To preserve the roots of the plant, the bush is mulched: sprinkle with peat, fallen leaves or moss.

Important! If the plant is young and this is its first wintering, it is better to cover the roots with foil and mulch with a thick layer. It is better to transplant Tradescantia to another place at the age of 3-4 years, otherwise the roots that are not strong until the end may not take root in a new place

Tradescantia is demanding on the soil: if it is scarce, the top layer should be removed and covered with the prepared mixture. You can take purchased soil for flowering plants, you can make it yourself - mix the soil with peat, humus and vermicompost. The main thing is that the soil for the Tradescantia bush is nutritious and loose.

It is better to transplant Tradescantia to another place at the age of 3-4 years, otherwise the roots that are not strong until the end may not take root in a new place. Tradescantia is demanding on the soil: if it is scarce, the top layer should be removed and covered with the prepared mixture. You can take purchased soil for flowering plants, you can make it yourself - mix the soil with peat, humus and vermicompost. The main thing is that the soil for the Tradescantia bush is nutritious and loose.

Bloom