How to collect and plant hyacinth seeds
Hello. I am interested in one problem - how to get hyacinth seeds and grow an adult plant from them. I have been doing floriculture for a long time. I have a lot of all kinds and varieties on the site, but most of all I love bulbous plants - they usually have large and bright flowers. Hyacinths are especially fond of me. I grow several varieties. However, I had a daring idea to try to work on the breeding myself. To do this, you need to switch to the troublesome growing of plants from seeds. This is the only way to achieve something new and unusual. I just don't know where to start. Indeed, in order to record at least new color variations, you need to collect seeds from your plants. Then what to do, how to prepare seeds for planting and how to plant them? And most importantly - when to plant seedlings in the ground? Hyacinth seeds are used mainly for breeding work, because at least 6 years pass from the moment they are planted in the ground to the blooming of the first flowers. However, if you are patient, you can end up with healthy and hardy specimens. Or maybe it will be possible to grow something unusual, worthy of further selection.
The algorithm of actions of a novice breeder is as follows:
- In the midst of flowering hyacinths, you need to decide on the choice of specimens worthy of their seeds being collected and sown.
- First you need to collect the boxes. This is to prevent spontaneous cracking and loss of seeds. When ready to collect, the boxes turn yellow. They need to be plucked and spread out to dry and ripen.
- After the capsules have opened, the seeds are collected, cleaned and laid out in paper bags with information about the variety and characteristics of the specimen.
- Then the seeds must go through the vernalization stage. First, they should lie in a cool, dark place. They need to be sown in the fall. The problem is that they take a very long time to germinate. If you sow them in the spring, you will have to wait a whole year.
- In order for the seeds to germinate in comfortable conditions and not freeze, it is necessary to sow indoors. It is possible to plant in open ground only in natural areas with a mild climate.
- Since the seeds are small, and their germination rate is not always high, they need to be sown thickly - at a distance of 6-8 cm from each other.
- In the first year, hyacinth sprouts need careful care, since this is the main period of bulb formation. The rate of ripening and the viability of the plant depends on the conditions of the first season. Watering should be regular, but not excessive. During the season, it is necessary to fertilize 2-3 times with mineral fertilizers. It is best to make a mixture of ammonium nitrate (20 g), superphosphate (30 g) and potassium sulfate (10 g). The mixture is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This amount of top dressing is calculated for 1.5 m of the garden bed.
By the fall, you will have a small onion. This will be the main result of your efforts. Further, young hyacinths need to be looked after as for ordinary adult bulbs, but more carefully, since they still need to gain strength for future flowering. This will happen no earlier than in 3-4 years.
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Features of cuttings
Sedums are propagated by leaf and stem cuttings, usually in the warm season. The most suitable seasons for this procedure are spring and autumn. Experienced growers recommend harvesting cuttings before succulent flowering (in spring) or after it (in autumn).It is undesirable to use flowering, weakened, damaged or very young plants under three years of age for harvesting cuttings.
It is prepared in advance from sod land, leaf humus, peat soil and sand (recommended proportions are 1: 1: 1: 1). It is also allowed to use ready-made store substrates recommended for growing succulents. Before filling the pot with earth, it is necessary to lay a drainage layer on the bottom of the container: river pebbles, pieces of expanded clay or foam.
Cuttings are carried out as follows:
- choose the strongest, well-developed aerial shoot on stonecrop;
- break off or separate with scissors the upper part of the shoot 5-6 centimeters long;
- a pair of lower leaves are removed from the cutting;
- treat the cut site on the mother plant with charcoal powder.
The prepared stalk is placed in a container or glass with soil mixture. The lower part of the shoot is buried in the ground by 1.5-2 centimeters. After planting, the cutting is thoroughly watered.
Watering is carried out as the soil surface dries up in the container. Successful rooting will be evidenced by the gradual growth of cuttings and the formation of new leaves on them.
You can root the sedum stalk in a glass of water. Some growers pre-treat the lower cut of the shoot with root stimulants (Kornevin, Epin). With the correct procedure, the roots of the cuttings appear after 2-3 weeks.
Leaf cuttings of stonecrops are rooted in the same way. For this, healthy leaves from mature plants are used. Many types of stonecrops reproduce by leaves on their own. After falling off, the leaves of such plants root safely in a pot with a mother bush without outside interference.
To root stonecrop leaves, they must be spread out on the surface of a moist, loose substrate. Some growers slightly deepen the lower cut of the leaves (or their petioles) into the ground
In the process of rooting the leaves, it is important to ensure that the surface of the substrate does not dry out.
Florists recommend rooting stem and leaf cuttings at an indoor temperature of + 20-23 °. During the rooting period, the cuttings should be kept in a bright room without drafts. It is not allowed to place rooting planting material in direct sunlight.
After harvesting, the cuttings are laid out on sheets of paper and sent to a dry room. After 2-4 weeks, the leaves will fall off the cuttings, after which young green shoots will begin to appear in their axils. When the shoots reach a length of 4-6 centimeters, they are separated from the cutting and planted in boxes with a loose substrate.
Cuttings
If leaves are used for plant propagation, the characteristics of the parent specimen will be fully preserved. Propagation by cuttings is in demand, since you can quickly create a whole flower bed from the host, while minimally damaging the root system. Reproduction in this way involves planting shoots on short stalks and with small leaves. Summer is a great time for this method. It is best to root in late June or early July.
Let's consider step by step the algorithm of actions.
- Choose a stalk. It should have a point of growth, it is worth removing the leaves from it by 1/3 part.
- Choose a place with nutritious soil and plant.
- Water the planted cutting thoroughly.
If you don't pay attention to the plant, it will wither and get sick pretty quickly. After planting, the cuttings need regular watering, as well as spraying the leaves. Over time, each cutting will begin to form its own strong root system. And in just a few weeks, the plant will begin to actively grow.
Can be divided without extraction
If the task is not to obtain a large number of divisions, then 2-3 new plants can be separated from the original bush without digging it out completely, which, of course, simplifies the process.To neatly separate shoots with 1-4 rosettes, you need to put a sharp shovel in the center of the root system and cut off the necessary part with roots and foliage with a triangle. Often, the daughter branches are located so that it immediately becomes clear how to separate, of course, only the strongest shoots should be taken.
When you need one cut, you can simply separate it with your hands, after digging the trunk from the outside. Mature shrubs tolerate this procedure, but young hosts, including 3-year-old specimens, may grow more slowly after division so early.
For an illustration of how hosts are multiplied by division, see below.
Difficulties of grafting host
Host grafting is considered a much less popular method and is usually used to propagate rare varieties or slow-growing plants. They use cuttings and, if necessary, propagate young plants or save those specimens that simply do not grow large bushes and form very few outlets due to various problems with conditions and diseases.
It is difficult to call the process of rooting of individual shoots by the hosts as classical cuttings - this perennial uses young rosettes with at least a minimal own rhizome, broken off with a "heel" (or neatly cut off).
The rosettes are chosen according to the compactness and size of the leaves: from the entire bush, individual rosettes with the shortest and smallest (compared to other rosettes) leaves are noted. Sometimes such rosettes break off themselves during classical rooting and these plants are used for grafting.
For grafting, the host chooses the most active phase of the growing season, when strong, powerful leaves have already grown and the plants are actively growing. Cuttings are carried out from late spring to mid-summer - throughout May, June and July.
The process of propagation by cuttings of hosts is not very complicated:
- Plants are examined and marked for strong, healthy young rosettes without visible damage. There is no need to dig out the bush. When trying to break off, it is worth remembering that only easily detachable, "ripened" sockets are used for grafting - if they do not detach without effort, it is worth choosing others that can quickly form a sufficient number of adventitious roots after planting as independent plants.
- Shoots with a heel are examined, the leaves are shortened by half or a third to reduce moisture evaporation.
- Separated outlets are more often planted in greenhouses or in beds for growing, and not immediately to a permanent place, but if it is possible to provide care, cuttings can be planted without an intermediate stage. They are installed in planting holes, slightly squeezed with soil and watered.
All hosta cuttings look lethargic for several days, most often lie on the ground and seem to be dead plants. It takes several days for the rooting process to begin in wet soil. Both stable substrate moisture and protection against overheating are the most important conditions for rooting.
Planted hosta cuttings should not only be shaded from the direct sun, but also mulched over the soil and sprayed in the evenings (you can replace this procedure by increasing the air humidity by installing a hood over the plant). Usually, after 3 days, the plants straighten and look much more cheerful, but the measures for shading and additional moisture should be continued until growth begins.
Rooting leaf cuttings (they are also broken off with the heel) is not considered a reliable method. You can try to propagate the hosta this way, using the standard technique of rooting leaf cuttings in containers under a hood and with treatments with root accelerators.
The seed method is used for host species and if you need to get a large number of seedlings with any characteristics. construyendo-puentes
Growing hosts from seeds
Hosta planting and care / Host from seeds
Growing in a pot
Such a plant can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush, and also by cuttings. If you want to grow such a flower from seeds, then you should remember that how successful it will be depends directly on whether you treat the seed with growth-stimulating agents (you need to immerse them in root, zircon, epin or juice for 30 minutes aloe), or not. The fact is that seed germination is not very high - about 70–80 percent. There are gardeners who recommend using the stratification method, namely, placing the seeds in a cold place for 4 weeks.
It is also important to choose a high-quality soil mixture for sowing. It should be free from pathogens, fungi, etc.
For this, it is recommended to purchase the substrate from a reliable specialist store. The soil mixture should include peat, perlite, and vermiculite.
Sowing is carried out from April to May. First you need to treat the pot with a solution of potassium manganese or medical alcohol. A drainage layer must be laid at the bottom, then add soil and moisten it thoroughly. After that, the seeds are sown, they are simply distributed over the soil surface. Then they need to be sprinkled with a thin (5-7 millimeters) layer of earth mixture, which should be lightly tamped. From above, the container must be covered with a transparent film or glass. The optimum temperature for germination is 18 to 25 degrees. If you organize suitable conditions for seed germination, then the first seedlings can be seen 14–20 days after sowing. Seedlings should be protected from direct sunlight, they should be watered moderately, and accumulated condensation should be removed from the shelter in a timely manner. The seeds, until they have sprung up, do not need good lighting, in this regard, until the seedlings appear, the container should be placed in a small partial shade. However, after this happens, the seedlings are rearranged in a place with good lighting.
It is necessary to pick seedlings into individual pots after they have 2 real leaves. To do this, the pots need to be filled with earth mixture and filled with sand by ¼ part, and the hosts are transplanted into them. Watering is used exclusively from the bottom. To do this, water is poured into the container and pots are installed in it. They are removed only after the top layer of the substrate becomes wet. After transplanting, the hosts should be hardened. Remove shelter for a few hours. After 7 days, the shelter must be removed for good, and from that moment the flowers must be taken out into the street, but only if the air temperature is at least 18 degrees. It should be remembered that hosta seedlings grow for a very long time, and even such plants that grow from seeds may not retain varietal characteristics.
Growing seedlings
Hosta seeds have a low germination rate - about 70 - 80%, therefore, before sowing, it is advisable to process them in a solution of stimulants, which are widely available in the trade network.
Hosta seeds need to be planted shallowly, up to 5 - 7 mm. It is most correct to adhere to this technology:
Compact the soil surface with a wide wooden plank. - Carry out sowing. - Sprinkle with a layer of perlite and seal again.
The "rolling" method provides excellent seed-to-soil contact, which creates optimal conditions for germination, and at 20 ° C, the first shoots can be expected to appear in 2 weeks.
The appearance of the first true leaf is a signal for picking - transplanting seedlings into separate containers with sterile, but already more nutritious soil. From above, the soil is covered with a small layer of sand. Watering will now have to be done "from the bottom up", by immersing the cultivation container in a container with water.
To adapt young plants to future growing conditions, the seedlings must be hardened, gradually reducing the temperature.You also need to accustom the seedlings to sunlight - take them outside, gradually increasing the exposure time, starting from 10 - 15 minutes.
The showiness of the hosts is worth taking the time to nurture strong and healthy seedlings!
Before growing a hosta from seed, you need to know that this is a tricky business. Success depends on which substrate you use.
The substrate for germinating hosta seeds must be sterile; if fungi or other microbes are present in it, the hosta seeds will immediately become infected and the young seedlings will be sick. It is recommended to use a substrate purchased from a store.
Seed container hosts need to be processed too. For this, you can use rubbing alcohol or manganese solution. The most suitable container is one with cells or compartments. Drainage should be laid out at the bottom of each cell, and then the substrate. Water the soil well, because the hosta plant is moisture-loving.
If the container has a lid, it will be easy for you to maintain the necessary humidity. If there is no cover, use clear glass.
Hosta seeds need to be planted deep no more than 5 mm. After planting, the soil must be slightly compacted, this is necessary so that the hosta seeds quickly absorb moisture, and this is possible only when the seeds come into contact with the ground.
With good humidity and air temperatures above +20 degrees, hosta seeds germinate in two weeks. Plants need to dive after the appearance of a few pairs of leaves. Hosta is planted outdoors in spring, when the soil warms up to +10.
Then collect the seeds from the hosta if it blooms this year. Practice shows that the host is ideal for landscape design. Its spreading foliage goes well with stone, with other plants, flowering and non-flowering.
Since growing hosta from seeds is not very difficult, you will have the opportunity to try yourself in this business. Do not plant hosta seeds this year. Dry the seeds in a cloth bag in partial shade, and next year the seeds will be ready for germination.
Funkia or Hosta is an ornamental and beautiful plant. Distinctive feature: large and fleshy leaves with different shapes and sizes, depending on the variety. The plant adapts well to new growing conditions, so the funkia can be grown on depleted and dehydrated soils. It tolerates a short-term drop in temperature well and fits perfectly into the general landscape.
If you look at the funky, which grows in natural conditions, then we can say that this is a giant plant. The leaves are very large and thick, spreading. The host looks somewhat mysterious. Several plant species can be seen only in one place, because they quickly interbreed and new variations are formed as a result.
How to grow hosta from seeds
Growing hostas from seeds is not easy. Moreover, this method makes sense to propagate only species functions, since varietal traits are not preserved through seed cultivation.
Peduncles and seeds
When to collect seeds
Since most host species bloom in mid-summer, seeds should be harvested in late August or early September. The fact that the seed pods are ripe is indicated by their color: they turn brown-brown and begin to open. This is the optimal time to collect. If the weather is dry, then you can wait for full disclosure. Seeds with a wing sit quite tightly in capsules. If it rains, then 3 days before harvesting, an awning is stretched over the plant so that the flower stalks dry out. The germination rate of seeds harvested wet is worse.
The peduncles are cut off and, forming bunches and laying fabric or paper under them, are suspended in a ventilated room. It is better if the seeds fall out of the boxes themselves. Next, you need to clean the hosta seeds from the wings and, after drying, place them in the refrigerator for a month for hardening.
Mature boxes
Planting in pots
To obtain seedlings, seeds begin to be planted in April. They are pre-soaked in a growth stimulator.
Important! For planting seeds, it is recommended to use a sterile substrate. Seedlings are very sensitive to fungi and bacteria
It is convenient to use plastic pots or ready-made containers with cells as containers for germination. The main thing is not to forget about the drainage and make numerous holes at the bottom of the dishes for planting.
- The container must be disinfected by wiping with alcohol or manganese solution.
- Place a drainage layer on the bottom.
- The substrate must be moist and contain vermiculite, perlite and peat.
- Scatter the seeds at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from each other.
- Pour the same substrate on top with a layer of 5-7 mm, tamp it slightly.
- Cover the greenhouse with foil.
- Maintain the air temperature at the level of 20-25 ° С. The light level is not important, but there should be no direct sunlight.
If the seed preparation was carried out correctly and the planting conditions are met, then in 2-3 weeks shoots should appear. At this moment, the greenhouse is moved to a well-lit place.
Hosta seedlings will appear in 3 weeks
Dive
The host begins to plant sprouts in separate pots when two leaves appear on them. The soil should be a quarter of sand. Dishes with small functions are placed on a tray into which water is poured. This ensures bottom watering. The plants are covered with foil again.
Only after about two weeks, the cap can be removed and, for hardening, begin to take the shoots outside for a short time.
Landing in open ground
When young hosts are strong enough, you can transplant them to the site. Since the root system of the shoots develops horizontally, the holes for them should be shallow, but rather wide. The soil is specially enriched and loosened. Having planted the plants, they mulch, provide regular watering and, if necessary, shade.
Don't expect seed-grown plants to grow into a lush bush this summer. They will reach full maturity only in the fifth year of life.
Young hosts grown from seeds grow slowly
Note! Some gardeners do not plant seed-grown hosts in open ground in the first year, but leave them in containers until the next
