On the reproduction of astilbe by dividing the bush and cuttings, when you can plant

A little about other species

Before talking about the reproduction of variegated turf by cuttings, it is worth briefly talking about other representatives of this family - there are a lot of them and they differ quite a lot. In general, their number reaches fifty, but only a few plant species are of greatest interest for landscape design.

One of the most famous is the white dogwood, on the basis of which variegated was bred. In the wild, it grows in North Asia. It is a high (up to three meters) shrub, and reaches this height quite quickly. The leaves are dark green, sometimes with a bluish tinge. In the fall, they acquire a rich yellow color. The fruits and flowers are white. Young trees have bright red grass, while old trees have gray. It also blooms twice - in early summer and autumn. It is very unpretentious to the soil, grows well in the shade and is not afraid of the wind.

The blood red turf is also known as svidina. Grows in Central Europe. Differs in considerable height - with proper care and proper formation, up to eight meters. The leaves are dark green, elliptical in shape. By winter, the color changes significantly - from light orange and yellow to deep red. It is not whimsical to the soil, but it grows rather poorly on acidic and poor sandy ones, it needs to increase the pH and additional feeding.

Derain male (aka common dogwood) is the only plant in its kind with edible fruits. In the first years of life, it grows rather slowly, but then it makes a leap and may well grow up to eight meters. A young tree grows rapidly upward, and already in adulthood it becomes more rounded. The leaves are beautiful - green, with a shiny surface. It blooms in small yellow flowers for about three weeks. The aroma is subtle, pleasant, sweet. The fruits are edible, sour. Therefore, the dogwood will serve not only as a hedge, but also as a fruit crop.

Canadian turf is not only shade-resistant - it generally prefers not to grow in sunny areas. For him, the best choice would be a shady area with high humidity. It is not surprising that it grows in the wild in North Asia, North America and even Greenland! It is the smallest - creeping bushes rarely reach a height of more than 15 centimeters. The leaves are dark green in color, but in autumn they become especially beautiful - red.

Division and transplantation of Heuchera

Breeding methods of geyhara

Do not grow Heuchera in one place for more than three to four years; after this period, it must be divided and transplanted. For propagation of Heuchera, you can also use the seed method, but do not forget that when propagating by seeds, the parental varietal characteristics of the offspring are not preserved, and after collecting and sowing the seeds of a varietal plant with red leaves, you will end up with an ordinary green-leaved Heuchera.

Heuchera can be propagated by leafy cuttings. To do this, the leaf must be separated from the plant along with the "heel", that is, with a small part of the rhizome. It is better to do this with a sharp, sterile knife. Such cuttings can be immediately planted in the soil, they usually take root.

Reproduction of heuchera by dividing the bush

And yet, dividing the bush is the most reliable way of reproduction of heuchera, especially since this plant still has to be dug up and replanted every 3 years. So why not split the bush at the same time?

I am growing an insanely beautiful Heuchera of the Marmeladka variety. She is three years old, and she is already beginning to creep to the sides. Such is the peculiarity of this variety.A high leg has already formed at the mother bush, and if I do not mulch it in the fall, then it can freeze in winter. Another one of my geykhera is two years old, and her leg is already bald, so this year I decided to divide my geykhera, and plant the dividers. The best time to divide is the period from August 15 to September 15: in order to form a root system, plants need about a month before the onset of stable cold weather.

Heuchera's root system resembles a carrot. I dug out a bush and divided it. Rather, the plant fell apart on its own, I just had to make a slight effort. I break off the old root stump. Do not worry about the fact that plant fragments have practically no roots: even such a plant will perfectly take root and overwinter. After stripping the obsolete roots, I removed the lower leaves from each fragment, leaving only a small rosette that will feed the rooting plant. If you have a large-leaved variety of Heuchera, then, after removing the lower leaves, shorten the upper ones in half, as is done when grafting. All cuts and wounds on the rhizome must be treated with wood ash.

Planting a heychera delenok

If you are planting Heuchera in the same place, add a little fresh earth and a couple of spoons of humus. The cuttings do not have a root system yet, and so that putrefactive processes do not develop in the ground, put 2 tablets of glyocladin in each hole to a depth of 2-3 cm. When planting, the growth point must be deepened by about 2 cm. Then the Heuchera must be well watered, having previously made an irrigation hole around it. When the water is absorbed, be sure to cover the area around each plant with compost.

To speed up the rooting process, cover each plant with an impromptu greenhouse from a five-liter plastic bottle with a cropped bottom. Press the bottles lightly into the ground to prevent the wind from blowing them over. Try to ventilate the bushes daily by removing the caps from the bottles. Watering heuchera, which has practically no roots, can be done with a solution of a root former: this will also accelerate the development of the root system. And the plastic can be removed when the leaves remaining on the bush regain their turgor or when new leaves appear on the parcels.

Wintering of the transplanted Heuchera

To protect still weak plants from frost, close to frost, once again pour a layer of compost under the bushes and cover them with foliage - walnut, oak or maple. There are a lot of phytoncides in the foliage of these trees, it will not melt and will reliably protect your Heuchera from the winter cold. Dry grass can also be used as a covering material. Place a box on top of the bush, turned upside down so that the mulch does not scatter from the gusts of wind.

If you value your Heuchera too much to leave it in the conservatory, transplant the plant into a pot and keep it in the basement or on a glassed-in balcony, and in the spring transplant Heuchera into the ground.

Sheet plate

Heuchera can be propagated with one single sheet. It's not that hard if you follow the rules. The fact is that just taking a part of the leaf is not enough, it is necessary that a piece of the stem is preserved on it. The stem contains growth buds, which eventually form new leaves.

Leafy cuttings can be cut at any time during the growing season, however, if taken in late fall, they may not take root until winter. But if there is an opportunity to transfer young seedlings for the winter indoors, then you can cut the cuttings in the fall. You can combine two methods - dividing the bush and grafting, then you can use the material left over from the division.

Prepare the planting mixture in advance. A mixture of sand, vermiculite and peat in various proportions has proven itself well. The best option can be selected empirically, but usually all components are taken in equal parts.Recently, a new material, coconut fiber, has been used as a planting medium. It is good because it is absolutely sterile, that is, it does not contain any pathogens that could harm young plants.

Prepare grafting tools. The knife must be not only sharp, but also clean, otherwise diseases can be transmitted from one plant to another. To avoid this, dip the knife in diluted bleach after each cut.

Slice the heel cuttings with a clean, sharp knife. If the stalk contains one leaf, then the size of the "heel" should be about half a centimeter. Larger cuttings with multiple leaves can be used. However, with a large surface area of the leaves, the cutting can be overdried, as the leaves will evaporate water. Therefore, to reduce the loss of moisture, large leaves must be reduced by cutting them in half. Small leaves can be left intact - they will produce nutrients for the plant.

Hold the cutting in a solution of any growth stimulant or sprinkle the cut with "Kornevin". This will help the plant withstand stress and take root faster.

Plant the cuttings in a moist planting environment and shade them out of direct sunlight. In the open field, cuttings are often covered with a jar or planted under arcs. It is better to plant a leaf cutting in an inclined position and so that the "heel" is at a depth of about 2-3 centimeters from the soil level. This is due to the fact that it will be difficult for the newly formed leaves to overcome the thicker layer of the earth. If done correctly, the first roots will form in 4-6 weeks.

If you are rooting the leaves in the fall, then it is better to plant them in seedling pots, which can be transferred to a bright, cool room in winter. In this case, fill the pots with the planting mixture and moisten well, then add a little more of the mixture, because after moistening it will settle. After that, make a depression in the mixture with a pencil and insert the end of the cutting into it.

Squeeze the mixture gently around the stem. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and tie the bag securely with an elastic band

If necessary, place one or two sticks or plastic straws in the pot so that the plastic does not touch the surface of the sheet. This prevents condensation from entering the bag onto the sheet.

For information on how to propagate heuchera, see the next video.

Description

First of all, it is worth talking about this plant as a whole. Derain variegated in landscape design is not used by chance. He is amazingly beautiful and graceful.

But in the wild, it does not occur at all. The variegated sod appeared solely thanks to the painstaking work of breeders, who took as a basis the white sod, which has only green leaves.

Experienced breeders have managed to significantly enrich the color palette, creating an amazing richness of colors. The leaves now have a yellow, golden, white, lime or cream border. The leaves are heart-shaped, the edges are even, and the central vein is clearly pronounced.

Young plants are like shrubs, but adults are more like trees. The height of the variegated turf bush reaches three meters with a crown diameter of up to five meters. The bark is very unusual - brick or bright coral in color. Shines in the sun with a glossy sheen. It is not surprising that the plant retains its beauty not only in summer, but also in winter, when the foliage falls off. Perhaps, some experts will agree that the bright bark makes it look even more impressive against the background of snow-white snowdrifts of turf.

An additional plus is that the variegated dogwood blooms twice a season. Accordingly, it also bears fruit twice. This first occurs in late May or early June. The appearance of berries occurs after about 40-50 days, that is, in the middle or end of July.The plant blooms for the second time in mid to late August. Accordingly, the harvest should be expected by October. By the way, the berries look gorgeous against the background of purple and red-orange leaves! The flowers are snow-white, collected in graceful inflorescences with a diameter of about four to five centimeters. The fruits are white-bluish, and in some cases greenish. Unfortunately, the berries are inedible.

Air layering

How does barberry propagate by layering and what is it? It's actually very simple. An adult shrub grows in the garden. He has twigs hanging down to the ground. A couple of them remain in the ground. At the same time, it is impossible to cut it off from the mother plant. In this form, they contain layering until the end of the season.

The branches of the branches will receive nutrition from the soil and from the plant at the same time. Therefore, the survival rate is high. Subsequent procedures and care for layering:

By the end of summer, they check how well the layers have taken root. The roots should be felt.
The tops are cut off from the main bush, so that at least 3-4 internodes remain in the new plant.
You need to plant new barberries in your own holes.
While the shoots are taking root, they are periodically spud. The more land at the base, the better the process goes.
Plantings are watered every week with 500 ml of water. You cannot overflow them so as not to erode the earth at the trunk.
Top dressing is carried out at the same level as all barberries.

Barberry fruit

You should know! After rooting, the cuttings are cut off the top. Leave a new bush next to the mother to make it easier for him to adapt to the new type of diet.

How to reproduce?

The main ways of gerbera breeding:

Cuttings. Quite a popular way. Varietal traits are well inherited. You can get several seedlings of the same development level. Plants up to 3 years old reproduce most easily in this way.
Sowing seeds. This method is suitable when a lot of seedlings are needed. However, the results may be uneven. In addition, when germinating seeds, the varietal characteristics of the plant may not be preserved and deviations may appear.
Reproduction by a sheet. This method may not preserve the varietal characteristics of the plant, but it requires a little planting material and time.
Division of the bush. A good way to rejuvenate an already mature plant or propagate a certain variety. Varietal characteristics are fully preserved. Best suited for plants from 4 years old with a well-developed root system.

The result will directly depend on the chosen method, so it is necessary to take into account all the pros and cons of each.

Important: When gerbera is propagated vegetatively, a healthy bush with no signs of disease should be chosen as a mother plant.

How to propagate and grow an orange gerbera, we told in our material.

Beneficial features

Tradescantia has attracted flower growers since ancient times not only for its subtle original beauty, but also for its medicinal properties:

gardeners know it as a hemostatic and healing agent for skin lesions;
if you apply a fresh leaf to the sore spot and make a bandage, the wound will stop bleeding, swelling and bruising will decrease, and minor cuts and scratches will quickly heal;
it is useful to periodically chew a leaf of tradescantia to prevent gum problems;
alcoholic infusions are used for lotions in the treatment of injuries and for rubbing sore spots;
Decoctions of Tradescantia relieve symptoms of colds in case of throat diseases and SARS (gargling).

Returning home after a long day at work, you will be happy to relax in an atmosphere of coziness and comfort at the sight of well-groomed plants. If you are seriously interested in the cultivation of Tradescantia, it will certainly become an indispensable addition to the collection of plants in the interior of your home or garden.

A great way to breed Tradescantia is in the video below.

Step-by-step instruction

Any of these gerbera breeding methods are available at home. Gerbera does not like deep penetration into the soil.

With any method of reproduction, seedlings should be planted so that the rosette of leaves is slightly higher than the soil.

Cuttings

Gerbera bush can be cut from May to July. How to properly propagate a gerbera by cuttings:

With a sharp knife, cut off a small part of the rhizome with 2-3 leaves from the mother bush.
Shorten the leaves by a third of their length.
Plant the prepared cuttings in flower containers without burying them in the soil. The soil should be moist and warm.
Create a greenhouse. For this, containers with cuttings can be covered with foil or plastic cups. The covering material should not touch the plant. You can also make small holes for ventilation in it with a needle. This will avoid stagnant moisture.

This method can be called the easiest and most effective.

Seeds

Street gerberas reproduce by seed only in spring. You can sow seedlings in March. Indoor gerberas can be propagated in this way at any time of the year.

Step-by-step instructions for growing gerbera from seeds:

Select seeds no older than 6-8 months. After reaching this age, the seeds have a very low germination rate.
Prepare a container, pour soil into it and slightly moisten it with a spray bottle.
Spread the seeds over the surface of the substrate. Sprinkle them on top with a thin layer of earth and moisten it a little again.
Cover the boxes with seedlings with glass or foil so that you get a mini-greenhouse.
Periodically ventilate the container with seeds for a short time and moisten the substrate by spraying it. Shoots should appear in 8-10 days.
Dive the seedlings into separate flower containers when 3-4 leaves appear on the seedlings.

The optimum temperature for seedlings is 18-20 C. Gerbera seeds love good lighting, but direct sunlight should not be allowed.

We recommend watching a video about growing gerbera from seeds:

Sheet

Leaf propagation is also possible for gerbera. For this you need:

Select part of the stem with leaf and knot. A knot is a small seal from which new roots should emerge later. You need to cut the stalk under it.
Cut off the selected part with a sharp sterile knife.
Plant the cut material in warm, nutritious soil.
Cover with wrap or plastic cup to create a greenhouse. It is imperative to create a small ventilation hole in the greenhouse.
Within a week, the leaf should take root, after which it can be divided and planted in flower containers.

By dividing the bush

Dividing the bush is the most popular way to reproduce gerbera and at home it gives better results. It is best to carry out the procedure in early March.

To reproduce a gerbera by dividing a bush, you need:

Remove the flower from the ground along with the roots.
Cut the soil segments into several pieces with a sharp, sterile knife. Each part obtained must have at least 2 growth points and a part of the root system.
Treat the cuts with crushed coal and plant them in separate pots. When planting, the root collar should be 1-2 cm above ground level (read how to plant a gerbera and how to care for a plant here).
Put a pot of seedlings in a cool shaded place for a week.
After 3-4 weeks, each part of the bush will give new roots.

Tip: After planting in the ground, neither the mother plant nor the separated seedling need to be watered for 2 days. After that, watering can only be carried out along the edges of the pot to avoid water ingress on the rhizome.