Begonia leaf propagation

Begonia - reproduction

In flower growers, begonias are divided into two groups - tuberous and root. There are several ways to propagate this indoor flower:

  1. Seeds.
  2. Stem cuttings.
  3. Vegetatively.
  4. Tubers.
  5. Sheet.

Now it is worth dwelling in more detail on each of them in order to know how begonia should reproduce correctly. It is worth noting that for each type of begonias, you need to select your own breeding method.

Applying any method of breeding begonias, you need to know that spring is the most favorable period for this procedure. Considering that such a beauty is not cheap in stores, it can be easily propagated in a convenient way at home.

Dividing tubers

This method is the most common among florists. The tuber is divided into several parts so that each individual has a bud. The cut points must be sprinkled with ash.

For planting, only moistened soil is used, into which the tuber is vertically lowered. Further, the dishes with the tuber are covered with a film and placed in a well-lit place in the room.

After a while, the tuber will take root and take root, after which the film is removed, and the begonia is transplanted into a specially selected pot for growing a flower.

Propagation by leaf cuttings

This method is ideal for those who want to get as much planting material as possible.

This method of breeding begonias will require careful handling. Before starting, you need to cut the healthiest and strongest leaf.

It is placed on glass, and the edges are cut without affecting the thick veins. The remaining leaf is divided into squares and dipped in a sand and peat composition or in sand. They should take root in 15–20 days.

The container with the seedlings should be covered and must not be touched all this time. As soon as the shoots appear, the shelter can be removed, the young shoots need to be ventilated. Then the shelter is put back in place. This method of breeding begonias is great for a creeping flower.

Stem cuttings. This method is suitable for bush begonias. A stalk with two buds is taken, two cuts are made on it. One slice should be at the top and the other at the bottom.

It is also necessary to remove half of the large leaves on the cuttings. They must be covered with transparent dishes or plastic. The shelter is periodically removed so that the cuttings can ventilate.

Features of growing begonia flowers

In our climatic conditions, outdoor begonia can only grow in warm weather. Basically, it is grown at home on windowsills, since many varieties are thermophilic plants.

Many begonia lovers also grow it in open flower beds, alpine slides. With the onset of cold weather, it is again placed in houses.

The total number of begonias is about 1,000, including annuals and perennials. The plant belongs to the genus Begonia, which, according to the form of the aboveground part may be:

  • herbaceous plants;
  • semi-shrub;
  • undersized shrubs.

Ever-flowering begonia is attractive not only for its bush shape. Its variety of bright colors of inflorescences and leaf shapes can amaze any gardener. Begonia sizes are also surprisingly varied.

The smallest can grow up to several centimeters. There are varieties of begonias that reach a height of 3 meters.

Begonia is decorative-flowering and decorative-deciduous. Due to their popularity, breeders began to breed new hybrid species based on tuberous begonias.After that, large-flowered species began to appear.

Choosing a rooting vessel

The plant has small roots, so it is worth choosing a low pot of small volume for it. In this case, the substrate will quickly get rid of excess moisture, so it will die less likely. At the same time, during rooting, the plant will not be in the vessel for long; when roots appear, you will need to choose an individual pot.

Note! Lighting for cuttings is as necessary as for mature plants, so the rooting period should be carried out in a well-lit area. You can use a regular plastic cup as a vessel.

The pot that will be used after transplanting should not be more than 800 ml in volume, while it is worth making a hole in the bottom so that excess water leaves through it. If the plant becomes cramped in the pot, you will have to choose the larger option. After transplanting, it is recommended to keep the plant for a couple of days in a darker place than usual.

Additional recommendations

It is better to plant rooted begonia cuttings in a wide, but shallow pot. The roots of the flower are on the surface. It is imperative to place a drainage layer (pieces of red brick or large expanded clay) on the bottom of the container.

It is necessary to plant a young sprout of tuberous begonia so that the tubers are at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the pot.

The growing point of the cutting (or root collar) should be at the level of the soil surface. It is not necessary to deepen it.

Immediately after transplanting, place the pot in a shaded area. You can move it to the illuminated area of ​​the house after 3 days.

5 Vegetative method

This method includes two breeding methods: children and tuberous division. In the first case, rhizome neoplasms are cut off, then they are planted in a small pot with a soil mixture: peat and sand, taken in equal proportions. A plastic cap is installed on top or a film is stretched. Everything is rearranged in a well-lit area without direct sunlight.

With the onset of autumn, a dilemma arises of what to do with room begonia. You can leave it in a pot - then there is no talk of further reproduction. The flower will grow and bloom safely in winter. To obtain new tubers, they are dug out together with a clod of earth and dried. A dark, well-ventilated and dry place is required. This technique allows you to collect all the nutrients in the tuber. Placing it in a container with peat and sand will help prevent it from drying out during winter storage. The substrate is periodically moistened.

Subject to all recommendations, the tubers will be ready for planting in the ground

It is important that only the lower part of the bulb goes deep, smooth and shiny. There should be small bumps on top - there are kidneys

A tuber that has survived the winter safely can be divided into several parts. In this way, many new plants are obtained at once. The raw material for propagation is sorted: germinated and soft tubers are rejected. They are divided into parts with a sharp knife: the size of such a plot is 6-9 cm. For the prevention of infectious diseases, the sections are processed with coal dust or ash.

The tubers are planted in a prepared soil mixture, watered and covered with foil. Thus, greenhouse conditions are created. The upper part of the tuber is left open. As soon as the first shoots appear, the plant is freed from the shelter. Upon reaching a height of 5–8 cm, the tuber tip is completely buried.

Preparation of planting material

How to plant a begonia stalk? Initially, it is necessary to select a good planting material. Cuttings can be taken from the top of the bush or from the side shoots. Usually it is possible to collect a lot of planting material when pruning a bush.Begonias are considered very tenacious, so they actually need only one growth point (leaf or bud on a branch) for rooting. But it is better if there are 3-4 of them. Therefore, cuttings are made 15-20 cm each, with an oblique cut at the bottom. The bottom sheet is cut off completely, at the top a third is cut off so that the leaf plates do not draw on themselves a lot of vital juices.

For leaf cuttings, strong, without signs of disease, yellowness, wilting, leaves with developed veins are selected.

There are two main ways to root a begonia by cutting - in water or in soil. They are considered to be equivalent. But when seated in water, the cuttings must be harvested with a margin, since some will surely disappear. In addition, it is believed that when planted directly into the ground, healthier and stronger plants are obtained.

How to properly divide begonia tubers

After the selection of tubers, it is necessary to start preparing equipment, containers for germination, and planting substrate. All inventory must be doused with boiling water or disinfected in a solution of potassium manganese, alcohol, chlorhexidine solution.

List of required inventory and material:

  1. Sharp scalpel, thin-bladed knife;
  2. Small pots or mini greenhouses;
  3. Powdered activated charcoal or charcoal;
  4. A weak solution of potassium manganese;
  5. Calcined river sand and peat.

The division of the tuber and the planting of the divisions are carried out in the following sequence:

Prepared sand is mixed with crushed peat in equal proportions. The bottom of small flowerpots, mini-beds are covered with a layer of drainage. Then the planting containers are filled with a sandy-peat substrate and set aside.

The begonia tuber is carefully examined to determine the dividing lines. The planting material is pre-dipped in a weak solution of potassium manganese for disinfection. The tuber is carefully cut into pieces, trying not to cause unnecessary damage.

The cut sites are treated with coal dust to exclude the penetration of pathogenic bacteria and mold fungi. Leave to dry in the open air for 15-20 minutes and re-disinfect with crushed coal.

Parts of the tuber are buried in the substrate, leaving growth points on the surface. The soil in the flowerpot is slightly compacted with your hands, adding soil mixture as needed

It is important to leave a sufficient level of free space to be able to add substrate after successful rooting. The first watering is carried out on the second or third day to reduce the risk of mold infestation

The flowerpot or mini-bed is covered with a transparent material to maintain the required level of air humidity.

Florists often use for these purposes:

  • Transparent plastic bags;
  • Glass jars or glasses;
  • Cut plastic bottles;
  • Large plastic cups.

The mini-greenhouse is placed in a warm, lighted place. The shelter is removed after the appearance of strong shoots. Until this moment, the greenhouses are daily ventilated and monitored for the moisture content of the substrate.

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