Follow-up care
Young plants require an annual transplant as they grow faster. It should be carried out in early spring. Decembrist withstands transplants well and his condition after them does not worsen. Adult flowers are transplanted every 3-5 years, you can only replace the top ball of the soil.
Taking care of young shoots is the same as for mature bushes. Watering is carried out with settled warm water. The plant is sprayed with the same water, especially the flower needs it at low humidity in the room and high temperature. If the shoots have not yet fully formed the root system, and buds have begun to appear on them, they must be removed. Otherwise, the Decembrist will spend all his energy on flowering, and not on the formation of roots.
The remaining water that has not been absorbed within 20 minutes after moistening must be removed from the pallet. You can feed the flower 2-3 months after transplanting. For this purpose, cactus feed is used, but the indicated dose must be diluted in half. Due to improper care with a young plant, some problems may arise, and in order to avoid them, it is necessary to adjust the conditions in which the Decembrist is.
The yellowing and wilting of the twigs may indicate direct sunlight hitting them. In this case, the plant must be rearranged or shaded in the sun.
The shoots rooted in March begin to bloom in the first year, so in December you can expect a flower to appear. When small buds form at the edge of the segments, the plant cannot be rearranged or even moved, otherwise the Decembrist will throw off the petals.
With proper care and compliance with the necessary conditions for maintaining the plant, the Christmas tree will delight for a long time with its incredible inflorescences on dull winter days.
How to propagate the Decembrist Schlumberger, see the next video.
Further care
Care of young clematis after they take root in an open area, it is not particularly difficult. The plant will need regular watering, preferably a couple of times a week. Fertilizers must be applied every 14 days - at first it is better to use nitrogenous compounds, this element contributes to the active growth of green mass.
So, summer cutting of clematis at home is a simple and understandable process even for beginners in floriculture. The most important thing in this case is to correctly perform the entire sequence of actions, then you will not have any problems with the summer rooting of cuttings. Correctly propagated clematis can please its owners with abundant flowering as early as the next season, although some varieties release flowers only after 2-3 years.
With features propagation of clematis by cuttings can be found in the next video.
Burrito method
The name (sometimes they say the method "burrito" or even "burrito") is associated with the name of the Mexican dish burritos made from a tortilla and its filling wrapped in it. Outwardly, the idea is very similar, since the process involves wrapping the same envelopes, only inedible.
Cuttings for rooting according to the burrito method must be at least 20 cm long. They are pre-prepared: they are kept in water for a day and the lower cut is treated with a root stimulator powder. Then proceed as follows:
- lay out a newspaper on the table;
- a bunch of cuttings is placed in the center and the ends of the paper are folded, forming an envelope;
- moisten the newspaper with water, preventing it from falling apart;
- put the resulting package in a large plastic bag, tie;
- keep it at a temperature of 20 ° C;
- the contents of the package are checked daily and discarded cuttings are discarded, not forgetting to moisten with water;
- two weeks later, the roots are checked and the prepared material with roots is planted in the ground or in a pot.
Growing methods
There are only two methods of flower propagation available - cuttings and seeds. But it is believed that the seed method is the most difficult and almost unsuccessful (on how to grow a gardenia from seeds at home, read here). Cuttings are more popular.
ATTENTION: For reproduction and planting, you need a special soil mixture of sand, leafy soil, peat, coniferous and sod land (you can find out what kind of soil you need for gardenia here). The processes of transplantation and reproduction are similar, but nevertheless, reproduction has its own characteristics.
Propagation by cuttings
This plant is considered difficult to root. Cutting is more correct during the winter pruning period (late winter - early spring until April). Repeated cuttings are allowed in summer - before flowering, but not later than in June-July. For grafting, apical half-lignified cuttings from last year's shoots 8-12 cm each with leaves are suitable.
For rooting, a substrate is suitable, as for cuttings of roses. It should be loose, light, airy, permeable to moisture and air. A mixture of sand, turf, vermiculite is suitable. Coconut fiber and perlite should be used due to the presence of calcium in them. There is an option of rooting cuttings in peat tablets. There are also cases of rooting in water.
The process of planting cuttings:
- The bottom cut should be flat and smooth.
- The stalk should be inserted into the ground by 1-1.5 centimeters, but the lower leaves should not touch its surface.
- Too large leaves on cuttings are shortened by a third in order to prevent them from evaporating a lot of moisture. Near the uppermost bosom, the leaves are not cut off, a growing point arises there.
- At least a couple of leaves should be left on the cuttings so that they feed the plant until the roots appear.
Cuttings that were planted near the side of the bowl are better than others.
Watch a video about gardenia propagation by cuttings:
How to root sprouts?
The rooting process is very slow, at least 3 weeks
But success is not always in the end, since it is important for a flower to provide heating of the substrate from below, as well as constant support of the temperature of +24 degrees, and preferably +30. To provide heating, you can place the substrate in a heat-insulating glass, into which hot water is added, replacing it with heated water from time to time.
Another option, how to root the cuttings, is to lower the glass with the sprouts in a thermos of hot water for at least 1 week.
If the temperature is below +24, then the cuttings are easily capable of rotting - they acquire a dark color and do not take root.
Greenhouse conditions will also be indispensable - the plant is placed under a transparent cap to ensure the level of humidity and temperature conditions. During the rooting period, air should not enter here, therefore, the substrate should be immediately well moistened, the cap should be hermetically sealed.
TIP: You can stimulate root formation by soaking the cuttings in a phytohormone solution (root, epin, heteroauxin, pennant, zircon).
After 3 weeks, the first young shoots will be visible under the bag at the top point of growth from the axils of the old leaf. Once unfolded (approximately 1 month of rooting), it can be transplanted into regular gardenia soil.
We use seeds
Another method to propagate a gardenia at home is to grow a flower from seed. Although this is not the most successful and effective method.
- To grow future good plants, only fresh seeds are required, otherwise they quickly lose their germination.
- If there are fresh seeds, then they need to be soaked first in a growth stimulator. Aloe or zircon juice is more commonly used.They need to be kept in solution for 2-3 hours. After that, the planted seed is made through a sieve onto the soil mixture. From above they are sprinkled with soil for azaleas or a mixture of sand, leafy earth, peat, coniferous and sod soil.
- The layer should not exceed 5 mm. Watering the plant by all means, including tamping. In addition, the growing container is covered with glass or foil. For germination, you need a warm place (+25 degrees), morning airing for 1-2 hours every day.
- Seedlings will appear no earlier than in 1 month. But if the process falls in the winter, then it should be remembered that the plant loves light. New sprouts need to be illuminated, sprayed and watered.
Watch a video about growing gardenia from seeds:
Growing balsam from seeds at home
Balsam seeds do not lose their germination for five to eight years and germinate quickly at proper temperature and humidity.
However, with this method of reproduction, as a rule, the characteristics of the original varieties are not preserved - something mixed grows, sometimes not at all like the mother plant.
Indoors, you can artificially pollinate balsam flowers by transferring pollen from the stamens to the pistils with a soft brush or cotton swab.
The oblong seed pods, which mature after successful pollination, should become translucent.
And now, when dark small seeds are already shining through their walls, you need to collect a "crop".
Seed capsules of balsamines tend to crack and scatter seeds at the slightest touch (hence another common nickname for this plant - "touchy").
Therefore, it is better to pick a ripe box in the morning, while it is still slightly wet - grab it tightly with two fingers and prevent the seeds from scattering.
The boxes are folded to dry in a paper bag.
At the end of winter, a light soil is prepared from peat and perlite (or sand) in a 2: 1 ratio, placed in a container, moistened and sown seeds, previously soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and washed with warm water.
Depending on their size, they are sprinkled with a more or less thin layer of perlite (or sand). Cover with plastic wrap, ventilate, moisten, keep in a bright place at a temperature of 20-25 ºС.
At temperatures below 20 degrees, seed germination is greatly delayed or does not occur at all.
Seedlings appear on the eighth to tenth day.
It is necessary to observe the humidity regime, to prevent stagnation of water, since closely growing seedlings are highly vulnerable to fungal infections and can quickly fall from the "black leg".
When they reach a height of 1.5 cm, the first pick is carried out, and after the formation of several true leaves, they are seated in separate containers.
The period "from sowing to bloom" is on average three months.
With the appropriate temperature and humidity conditions, due to the long-lasting high germination of seeds and rapid root formation, balsams can be easily propagated in room culture.
The resulting seedlings - attractive, long-lasting and luxuriantly flowering plants - will decorate and refresh any warm, light, fairly humid corner in which they are placed.
After transplanting Balsamin into a pot, he will need proper care, otherwise the plant may get sick and will have to be treated.
Care rules
To get healthy young plants, they need proper care. Experienced florists recommend adhering to simple rules:
The air temperature in the room where the flower is grown should not be lower than +15 degrees. This requirement also applies to the winter period. Under the influence of too cold air, the balsam loses its leaves.
The plant needs light bright, but diffused
It must be protected from direct sunlight.
The plant loves moisture, but excess moisture is harmful to the roots, so it is important to ensure good drainage.
To achieve good flowering, it is best to plant balsam in a small pot.
It is better to feed the flower with mineral fertilizers. Excess nitrogen will lead to vigorous growth of leaves and stems to the detriment of flowering.
The tops of the shoots are periodically pinched to form a beautiful dense crown.
Thuja propagation by cuttings in the fall at home
Pruning and replanting
Balsam should be pruned annually in early spring. At the same time, all elongated shoots are removed, forming a neat bush
It is important to understand how to pinch the balsam correctly. If you remove all the extra shoots at once, it injures the plant.
At this time, watering is reduced. Pruning this regularly will help renew the flower.
The crown of the plant and the tops of the shoots must be carefully pinched - this way the bush will be thick and branched. The plant is transplanted in the spring. Over the course of a year, the old substrate is depleted, and the balsam needs to be moved to a larger pot with new soil. An indication that a plant needs a new pot is the roots that grow into the drainage holes. This means that the flower has already covered the entire earthy clod with roots.
The day before the start of the transplant, balsam must be watered abundantly. The flower is carefully removed from the pot and the roots are carefully examined. The old earth is removed from the roots
Damaged or rotted areas are carefully cut off with a sharp knife or scalpel. Places of cuts are sprinkled with crushed coal
Balsam is planted in new soil without deepening the root collar. This must be done quickly so that the roots do not dry out. The soil is lightly tamped near the root. After planting, the flower is watered abundantly and left alone for several days.
Young specimens can be replanted several times a year, while using the simple transshipment method, adding a small amount of new soil. A new pot should be chosen in a larger size. You need to plant balsam in the center of the new pot. After planting, the plant is watered and left in the shade for several days.
Balsam propagation methods
Balsam is a perennial plant that belongs to the balsam family. Its popular name is "Vanka wet", which appeared due to the strong addiction of balsam to water. The plant has beautiful flowers of yellow, white, pink and lilac color.
Balsam needs abundant watering, and at home, where central heating dries the air, the flower also requires spraying. Stems, leaves and petals are saturated with moisture, therefore wild-growing "relatives" choose humid lowlands and banks of reservoirs for settlement.
Reproduction of balsam
Balsam propagates in two common ways: cuttings and seeds. Further on this will be discussed in more detail.
Propagation by cuttings
This is the most common breeding method, in which it is necessary to provide the plant with all the conditions so that the balsam cuttings not only take root, but also be able to ensure the growth of a young plant. This is the peculiarity of cuttings - the stems are not separated from the mother plant until the time when it has its own root system.
When propagating balsam by cuttings, you should pay attention to the age and type of the mother plant, from which the cuttings will be separated. To stimulate the growth of new young vegetative shoots, the mother plant must be pruned
Cuttings are cut from these shoots, and they are also characterized by strong root formation. The more often the mother plant is pruned, the better shoots will form, which is the success of cuttings.
To stimulate the growth of new young vegetative shoots, the mother plant must be pruned. Cuttings are cut from these shoots, and they are also characterized by strong root formation.The more often the mother plant is pruned, the better the shoots will form, which is the success of cuttings.
Shoots contain a certain supply of nutrients, which is needed not only for the formation of the root, but also to support its life until a new plant appears.
Therefore, the main task is to help the young shoot to sprout as soon as possible, before the reserves of nutrients are consumed.
Cutting cuttings
It is best to cut balsam from early to mid-summer. Cut green spring actively growing shoots using the tops of the shoots. Such cuttings root well without the help of stimulants and growth regulators. It is worth noting that hormonal procedures at this time bring almost no benefit.
Half-woody shoots are best cut at the end of summer. The stems at this time are already hardened and grow more slowly. Moisture care will be needed by the plant, but not as necessary as before.
To cut indoor balsam into cuttings, the lower oblique cut must be approximately 3-4 cm under the bud or knot.This cut between the knots is best done when cutting stiff shoots. For the propagation of green shoots, such a place is most suitable because of the spaciousness in this area of the largest number of tissues resistant to fungal diseases.
Care of cuttings
For successful reproduction of balsam, you need to carefully monitor the temperature, soil and humidity.
Temperature conditions are important for the growth rate of the root system. The air temperature should be low - this will help to stop the growth of the plant in the upper part of it. In the lower part, on the contrary, the temperature should be higher in order to stimulate the regrowth of the roots. The very temperature regime of the plant directly depends on the moisture loss of the cuttings and their quality.
When rooting green cuttings, the most suitable ground temperature is + 21˚C, and the air temperature is slightly lower. Rooting of woody cuttings should be done in open soil, and the ground itself should warm up well. Propagation by cuttings of herbaceous evergreen shoots is in moist soil and in warm conditions.
You can create these using a pot, substrate and plastic wrap. In the vessel you need to place a substrate with cuttings embedded in it and cover them with a film.
Seedling soil is best, which should be sterile and neutral.
