Diseases
The most common disease of indoor primroses is root rot. The main reasons for its occurrence excessive watering and lack of drainage
... Developing rot can be identified by the following criteria:
- Withering away.
- Yellowed lower leaves.
- Black spots at the base of the rosette.
When these symptoms are detected, the plants will immediately spill with fungicide solution
... For example, you can use a foundation solution prepared at the rate of 2 grams per 1 liter of water.
If the disease continues to progress, the bush is shaken out of the pot and washed under running water. After that on the plant remove all rotten and blackened places
... The primrose treated in this way is planted in fresh soil.
This video tells how to prolong the flowering of obkonik primrose, how to feed it, how to water it.
Growing room primrose in a pot at home
Primrose when it blooms: ripening period and changes in flower care
Growing a primrose in a pot at home is very easy. Even novice growers can cope with its cultivation, if they adhere to special rules. Before buying, it is imperative to study the information on how to care for primrose at home, so as not to provoke the appearance of diseases.
Primrose bloom
The nuances of flower care immediately after purchase
How to care for primrose immediately after purchase, so as not to cause harm in the very early stages of growing a flower at home? First of all, you need to find the most favorable place.
Important! The plant loves diffused lighting, so it is necessary to put a flower pot on the western or eastern window sills of the house
Primrose, after planting in the ground, takes root very quickly and grows at the root
Immediately after the purchase, you need to pay attention to the temperature of the content of the bush, it should not be lower than 15 and above 20 degrees. Watering should be increased gradually, you should not immediately fill the plant
Illumination and temperature conditions
Direct sunlight can burn the delicate leaf plates of primrose, so on hot days it is worth shading the flower or removing it deep into the room.
However, it is worth remembering that without the required lighting, the plant will not bloom on time and its foliage will fade. In the active period of the primrose, it is recommended to grow it on the western windowsills of the apartment.
The temperature of the content of the flower during flowering should be within 18 degrees.
Important! During rest, it is necessary to lower the temperature regime and remove the primrose in a more shaded place
Watering rules and humidity
Caring for room primrose at home also implies proper and regular watering. The flower needs to be watered often, but it should not be flooded.
After each watering, it is recommended to carefully loosen the soil in the pot so that the water does not stagnate. Primrose is prone to the formation of gray root rot, therefore, high-quality watering is not necessary with cold, settled water.
Primrose is not picky about moisture indicators. The main thing is not to overdry and not overmoisten it too much. During dry summer periods, you can spray the bushes with a spray bottle to freshen them up.
Top dressing and soil quality
Before the buds appear, the primrose does not need feeding. Then, in order for the flowering to be bright and abundant, the flower needs mineral fertilizers. It is necessary to feed the primrose twice a month.
Attention! If you feed the flowers before flowering, intensive foliage growth will begin, and the bud formation process will be delayed.The substrate for planting must be slightly acidic
It is recommended to buy ready-made potting mix for ornamental flowering plants. For growing primrose, you can make a substrate at home - mix turf, humus and river sand. You can also add peat
The planting substrate should be slightly acidic. It is recommended to buy ready-made potting soil for ornamental flowering plants. For growing primrose, you can make a substrate at home - mix turf, humus and river sand. You can also add peat.
Flower container size
At the first transplant, the pot is chosen medium in size. In the next couple of years, every spring, the capacity is changed, carrying out the transplant procedure.
The volume of containers should also be increased gradually so that the roots of the plant can grow well. The difference between last year's and the current pot in diameter is that the new container should be 3 centimeters larger.
Attention! Primrose pots do not have to be deep - it is recommended to choose them with the same width and height
Pruning and replanting
Pruning is essential to stimulate beautiful flowering. During this procedure, the peduncles are cut off, immediately after the buds have faded on them. This is done so that the plant directs all its forces to the emergence and blooming of new flowers.
Transplanting is also directly related to the care of primrose. It is desirable to carry out it annually, at least in the first years of the plant's life.
Usually the procedure is done in the spring, but it is not harmful if it is carried out in the fall. To pull the bush out of the pot, turn the container over and gently pull the plant out.
It is important not to damage the roots, otherwise the flower will not take root in a new place. Be sure to inspect the root system for damage and remove rotten or dried out areas
It is recommended to lay drainage material at the bottom of the new container, this will protect the bush from moisture stagnation and the appearance of fungal diseases. A substrate is poured onto the drainage layer and a bush is planted.
The most popular species and varieties with photos
There are many varieties. The most popular among them are.
Primula Spring
It begins to bloom in April and ends in late May. The petals are most often yellow, but there are also two-color ones.
Primula stemless
Also applies to early varieties. The leaves are small, oval in shape. The flowers are large, with wide-open heart-shaped petals. The most popular variety is Potsdam giants.
Early appearance, blooms until late May or early June. Height - 35 cm. It is actively used in medicine.
Toothed
High grade (up to 50 cm) with large oblong finely toothed wrinkled leaves. The flowers are small, collected in dense spherical inflorescences.
Siberian
Blooms in mid-May. Height - 30 cm. The stem is thin, covered with villi. Leaves are basal, pubescent, petals have an elongated heart-shaped shape.
Terry
This species blooms from early spring to mid-summer. It also tends to re-bloom in September and October. Differs in wavy petals and large leaves.
Low-growing variety (15 cm). The flowers resemble small rosebuds. Blooms in April - May.
High Colosseum
Despite the name, its height does not exceed 25 cm. It blooms with large flowers of various colors, including two-color ones.
Japanese
It is characterized by a developed basal rosette. The species has a tall, thick stem, bright leaves with jagged ends and flowers with a dark core. Plant height is about 20 cm.
Carnival
A hybrid with an unusual color. It begins to bloom in mid-spring. Distinctive features are a two-tone core and a height of about 20 cm.
Big Ben
It begins to bloom in mid-spring and ends in July. The plant has large flowers, mostly pink in color, a high stem and oblong glossy leaves. Height about 35 cm.
Softish
At home, it begins to bloom in late autumn, ends in mid-spring. It is distinguished by edging along the edges of the petals on large flowers with a diameter of 8 cm.The height of the plant is 45 cm.
Blooms from April to July. Plant height - 30 cm. Flowers are large with large petals of various colors.
Blooms from April to June. Height - 40 cm. Flowers are mostly yellow, oblong, with sharp petals.
Blue Jeans
This species grows well not only in the shade, but also in sunny areas. It begins to bloom in early spring and continues to delight the eye until June. The height of the bush is 25 cm. The flowers are large with blue petals with blue veins. The core is large, bright yellow.
Height - 30-50 cm. Flowers are large (8 cm). The stem is long, the leaves are large, velvety.
Polyantova
Refers to large species. The height of the bush can reach 60 cm. The flowers are 8 cm. There is a white edging on the round, tightly adjoining petals. Leaves are oval, pointed at the ends.
Florinda
The largest variety. There are specimens reaching 80 cm. On a high peduncle there are many bell-shaped flowers. The stem is thick and straight. The leaves are large and wrinkled.
How to grow vegetatively?
There are two variants of vegetative reproduction of strelitzia:
- by dividing the root;
- with the help of side shoots.
By division
Experienced gardeners note that the best time to divide the root of a plant is when it ends flowering. It is necessary to plant the plant carefully so as not to damage the roots during the transplanting process.
For the resulting seedlings, prepare wide, suitable pots.
Side shoots
The separation of side shoots is as follows:
pull the plant out of the pot, clean the roots from the ground;
if there are damaged areas, they must be cut off with scissors;
determine the side shoots most suitable for reproduction, carefully separate from the main plant;
treat the cut with charcoal powder or, if necessary, with a fungicide.
When dividing the root, you need to ensure that the root has from one to three shoots. In this case, you need to be very careful - the strelitzia root is rather fragile. The transplanted plants must be kept at a temperature of 22 ° C.
Pot selection
When choosing a pot, it should be remembered that Strelitzia prefers space; in a cramped pot, its roots will sprout outward. The diameter of the pot is selected in accordance with the age of the plant - the older it is, the wider and more spacious the flowerpot should be.
The pot should have several drainage holes at the bottom.
The composition of the earthen mixture
For a flower to grow strong and beautiful, loose and nutritious soil is needed.
It is important that the soil has good air and water permeability.
The composition of the soil should include:
- sand;
- peat;
- humus;
- leafy land.
All this should be in equal proportions. Charcoal is added to the drain.
You can prepare the substrate yourself by first disinfecting all components in an oven or microwave. Also, for strelitzia, soil for indoor flowers and plants, which can be purchased at the store, is suitable.
Landing
Planting a strelitzia root is not much different from sowing its seeds. This requires:
- If the container in which the flower will be planted does not have drainage holes at the bottom, then you need to do them yourself. The holes should be approximately 5 mm in diameter.
- Fill the pot with soil 2/3 full.
- Spill the prepared soil with boiling water, crush it and let the soil cool.
- Add sand to the soil so that its layer is two centimeters. Plant the spine.
- Top up the remaining soil, water again.
- Place the seedling in a bright room, maintain the temperature at 22-24 ° C. Remember that exposure to direct sunlight for strelitzia is unacceptable.
- Create a greenhouse condition for the flower. To do this, you need to cover the pot with a plastic bottle, after cutting it off.After a week and a half, the bottle can be removed.
There are many varieties of Strelitzia, but the most amazing and unusual of them is the Royal.
Growing a strelitzia at home is quite simple if you follow the basic rules. Taking care of the flower, maintaining the right climate and timely watering will allow you to admire the luxurious flowering of this unusual plant for a long time.
3. Planting and care
For Iberis, it is worth choosing a well-lit area or a semi-shady location. When grown in the shade, the flowering will be weak and the shoots will stretch out in search of a light source.
Bushes should receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily - preferably in the morning. The most shade-tolerant is evergreen Iberis.
A site with a flower can be fenced in with a dug iron or a special garden border, since some species can spread around the site on their own, using creeping shoots.
3.1 How and when to plant
The day before planting, plants in pots are watered abundantly or even soaked in warm water for half an hour. Such a measure will help soften the root ball and the plants can be transferred into the holes along with it, without disturbing the root system.
Only those bushes whose height has exceeded 7 cm are suitable for planting. Seedlings are planted in the garden after the threat of the last night frost has passed. In the conditions of the Central zone, such a time occurs in the second half of May.
For planting, prepare the soil - loosen and level the surface of the soil, and also remove weeds. If necessary, add river sand, wood ash, mineral and organic fertilizers.
Depending on the planting scheme, holes are made, the depth and width of which should exceed the root ball of the seedlings. The depth of the holes can be up to 10 - 12 cm.
The distance between the holes is also kept taking into account the height of adult plants - information on this can be found on the seed package. Usually, about 15 - 30 cm is left between the holes.
Plants of different varieties should be planted separately - if the neighborhood is too close, cross-pollination often occurs and the shade of the buds and the flowering time change.
Planting in open ground, if possible, is carried out in cloudy and cool weather. If the days are warm and sunny, then the plants are planted in the evening when the heat subsides.
The bushes are transferred into the holes along with the root ball and sprinkled with earth. The soil is lightly tamped with your fingertips to remove air pockets.
After planting, the plants are watered abundantly and the foot is mulched with straw, young grass cuttings, sawdust or tree bark. The height of the mulch layer can reach 3-4 cm. Such a measure will help prevent rapid evaporation of moisture after watering and inhibit the development of weeds.
In the first year after planting, only annual plants bloom. It is very rare to find buds in the strongest perennials. Most often, the formation of buds in perennial Iberis begins only in the second year after planting.
3.2 Soil for Iberis
The flower does not have special requirements for the composition of the soil and can tolerate rather nutrient-poor lands. The only prerequisite for a plant is good drainage - the soil should be able to allow moisture and air to pass through, allowing the root system to breathe.
A sufficient amount of river sand is mixed into the garden soil for a better outflow of moisture after rain or watering, as well as to prevent soil caking.
The soil for growing this shrub must have a slightly alkaline or neutral pH reaction. If the soil on the site is acidic, then before planting, wood ash is added to it, crushed chalk or dolomite flour is added. Slaked lime well deoxidizes the soil.
3.3 How to care for a plant in the garden
When grown on the site, Iberis is unpretentious and requires minimal care.Plants should be watered periodically if the weather is hot and dry for a long time. After watering, the surface of the earth is carefully loosened, and the site is also weeded. Two - three times a season, the bushes are fed.
Preparing primrose for wintering
In October or early November, primrose roots can be slightly bare. For cover, peat or humus is poured, and then the plantings are mulched with sawdust.
If it is autumn warm for a long time, then primroses often form buds and bloom again. But re-flowering is undesirable, as it weakens the plant, and in winter it freezes over. Therefore, the peduncles are removed.
With the onset of cold weather in late autumn, preparation for winter in the middle lane, in the regions of Siberia, the Urals, the regions of the North-West of planting includes the shelter of the plantings with leaf litter, spruce branches. Capricious, poorly tolerating winters and severe cold, hybrid forms are recommended to be dug up, transplanted into separate containers and kept in room conditions until spring. They take care of it as for an ordinary home flower: water it, loosen the soil, and occasionally feed it.
After the snow falls, the primroses are covered with a snow "pillow" on top. This will save the plants from freezing. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the mulch is removed.
Description of primrose: varieties and varieties
Primrose is prized for its bright colors of various shades, some varieties have a pleasant smell, and primrose leaves can also be eaten. Although primrose varieties are numerous, not all of them are grown in the gardens.
Primroses have a very rich palette of shades.
Garden types can be divided into:
- umbrella;
- cushion;
Primula cushion
- capitate;
- tiered;
- candelabra;
- bell-shaped.
Primrose capitate
Any owner in the garden has a plot on which nothing can be planted. Nothing grows there. It is best to plant primroses on such sites, because among them there are such unpretentious varieties that they grow absolutely anywhere, wherever you plant them. And maybe they will not be the brightest flowers in your flower bed, but they will invariably delight you with fresh spring greenery. For this, spring primrose or common primrose is well suited. The same practically undemanding, but brighter and more spectacular are the fine-toothed and auricular primroses.
Primroses bloom early, in April, and bloom until July. And some of the varieties bloom again in late summer.
7 reproduction
Reproduction is possible in several ways at once - you can get new plants by dividing, grow from seeds or cuttings.
7.1 Growing from seeds
When growing from seeds, you should be patient - in the first year after sowing, the plants will form only a root rosette of leaves, while the buds will decorate such bushes only in the second year of life.
Species plants can be propagated with their own seeds - they are harvested in the fall from fully ripe seed pods. It is better to postpone the collection of seeds until dry and warm weather.
Before sowing, the seeds should be given a cool period called stratification. This measure will increase the germination of planting material. Seeds are sown directly into open ground in mid-autumn - in this case, stratification will take place naturally.
A plot of land is prepared for sowing - they dig up and make shallow grooves. Since the seeds are small enough, they can be sown with a moistened tip of a toothpick or mixed with an equal amount of river sand. From above, the seeds are covered with a layer of soil about 3 - 5 mm thick. The first shoots in this area will appear in early May next year.
When sowing seedlings, the seeds are sown at the end of October in seedling boxes and left until the end of February in an unheated cellar or garage.Another way of stratification is refrigerated storage - seeds are mixed with barely damp river sand, placed in a plastic bag and sent to the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for 3-4 months.
In late February - early March, the planting material is sown in the ground, and the seedling boxes from the garage are placed on a regular window sill and started to be watered from a spray bottle. The air temperature in the room should be about 18 - 22 degrees.
From above, the seedling boxes are closed with a transparent lid or tightened with plastic wrap, periodically removing it and airing the plants. The location should be well lit, but the plants should not be exposed to direct sunlight.
The first shoots may appear in 1 - 1.2 months after sowing the seeds - at this time the shelter is removed. The last shoots can hatch even 3 months after sowing the seeds.
When a second leaf blade begins to form on each bush, a dive is carried out - the seedlings are planted in separate cups or small flower pots. After diving, after 10 - 12 days, the plants are fed with nitrogen fertilizers in a very weak concentration. The swimsuit grows slowly and such plants are planted in the garden at the end of summer.
7.2. Propagation by cuttings
Cutting a swimsuit is quite difficult and is within the power of experienced flower growers. At the end of spring, the shoot is separated from young plants, making the lower cut oblique. 2 internodes are left on the handle - the top is cut with a sharp secateurs at a right angle. The leaf blades are cut, leaving only a third of the length.
Prepare small cups or flower pots with drainage holes for cuttings. The bases of the cuttings are dipped into rooting powder, and then into a moist and loose substrate. The stem cutting should be immersed in the ground by 1 - 2 cm at a slight angle.
The seedlings are covered with a transparent plastic lid on top and placed in a warm place with good lighting, but without direct sun.
Within 1 - 2 months it will be possible to notice the emerging young leaves, which means that the first roots have appeared under the soil surface. Such plants are planted in the garden only the next year - wintering will take place at home.
7.3 division
This breeding method is one of the most commonly used. Adult trolliuses who are at least 5 years old are subject to division. Plants are divided in late August - early September, on a cloudy day.
Adult bushes are dug up and shaken off the remains of the soil. The root system can even be rinsed out under running water. Rotten and old roots are removed with a sharpened and sterile pruner.
The bushes are cut into pieces so that at least 2 - 3 shoots remain in each, as well as a well-developed root system. The wounds are sprinkled with charcoal or ash for drying and disinfection. Two-thirds of the leaves are harvested to reduce moisture loss.
Delenki are seated in the garden and immediately thoroughly watered. With this method of reproduction, all manipulations should be carried out as quickly as possible - if the flower loses too much moisture during the division process, it will die.
How to care for room primrose after purchase
Temperature
Primroses appear in March, early April, when the air is still cool and the soil is saturated with moisture, so temperature and humidity are key factors in growing room primroses.
The optimal temperature regime, which prolongs flowering for a long time, is 10-16 ̊С, and in winter during the dormant period it can be lowered to 7-10 С. In a warm room, leaves and flowers wither quickly.
Cool conditions can be created by placing the pot on an insulated balcony. A plate of crushed ice placed near the plant lowers the temperature well. Primrose loves fresh air, so it is advisable to take the pot out to the balcony or terrace in mid-April.
Watering
Primrose needs high humidity of air and soil during the period of budding and flowering. Watering is carried out, as a rule, 2 times a week, when the topsoil dries up by 1 cm. The soil should be moderately moist all the time, but not wet. The bush reacts to the lack and excess of moisture with drooping foliage.
When watering, avoid getting moisture into the center of the leaf outlet, as this can lead to the development of rot, and pour excess water from the pan. For the procedure, use cool but soft water. The ideal option would be rain. In winter, during the dormant period, watering is reduced.
You can increase the humidity of the air using a container filled with water with expanded clay and moss or by spraying water near the flower.
Lighting
The best place for a primrose at home would be bright, diffused light. Direct rays cause burns and wilting of foliage and shorten the flowering period. The best accommodation option would be east or west windows.
Caring for room primrose after purchase also consists in the timely removal of wilted flowers, otherwise the development of a fungal infection is possible.
Top dressing
They are fed with a liquid complex fertilizer for flowering indoor plants during the flowering and budding period once every two weeks, using half the dose recommended on the package.
How is transplanted
Perennial primroses are transplanted once a year in September. Choose a pot that is wide and shallow, as the roots of the plant are short.
A drainage layer of expanded clay is laid out at the bottom, and the soil is prepared from garden soil for indoor plants with the addition of 2 parts of peat and one part of sand. When transplanting, carefully remove the plant from the pot to avoid damaging the root system.
Reproduction
There are 3 ways to breed primrose. The first is by separating the lateral shoots from the leaf rosette in early spring. They are placed in separate pots and covered with a jar. The soil should be moist at all times. After rooting, the jar is removed.
The second method is by cuttings of long rhizomes with growth points that are located very close to the soil surface.
And the third is growing primrose from seeds. For sowing, take a shallow container with a drainage layer filled with a peat-sand mixture. The soil is well watered and seeds are distributed on the surface, spray them with boiled water at room temperature and cover with foil.
For germination, primrose seeds need low temperatures (2-3 ° C), so the container is placed in the refrigerator.
Air the seeds weekly by lifting the foil for a few minutes. Only after the sprouts appear, the container can be removed from the refrigerator and placed in a warm place with bright diffused light.
Remove the cover for airing for 10-15 minutes every day, after a week increase the time and then remove the film completely. When the first two or three leaves appear, the seedlings are dived into separate pots. After transplanting, young seedlings are fed with complex fertilizer. Flowering can be expected in 2-3 months.
An interesting point - the seeds are so small that they can be germinated in wet cotton wool, a sponge and even on a wet cotton pad.
