Planting daylilies in the spring in the ground: selection and preparation of a site, step-by-step instructions, combination with other plants, care features, possible problems

The ways

There are different ways to plant conifers in your garden.

Ordinary

For an ordinary (single) landing, a lot of space is required. For example, a wide lawn or a spacious lawn, where there is no longer any garden area. Applicable to large conifers: sprawling spruce trees, tall pines and mighty cedars. The tree is expected to grow in this location for many years without pruning. It is necessary to ensure in advance that the height and volume of the crown does not obscure other plants that need sunlight.

Another point worth paying attention to is that a powerful root system does not damage the foundations of adjacent buildings.

Group

Usually these are flower arrangements, flower beds of continuous flowering, rockeries, alpine slides, rabatki, mixborders and parterres. In each of them there is a place for several types of decorative conifers at once. The smallest ones are planted in front (for example, the Golden Glow mountain pine or the Aurora dull cypress). In the center are medium-sized ones (for example, Chinese juniper Mint Julep or Elegantissima berry yew). And already behind (or in the center, if it is a circular flowerbed) - tall coniferous shrubs (cypress dull-leaved Draht or Japanese cryptomeria Elegans Viridis).

In group compositions, nesting is allowed when the plants are at a short distance from each other. However, here it is worth considering the width of the crown so that the overgrown plants do not overlap one another.

Hedge

These are dense row plantings of conifers that protect the site or house from the wind, loud sounds and prying eyes. They can act as a fence or divide the garden into zones. Requires constant shaping (decorative trimming). Ideal options are cypress, thuja, yew and some types of low spruce.

Alley

These are more sparse (at a distance from each other) row plantings of conifers, usually along garden paths. Often mixed with deciduous trees. Here, you can already use tall plants that grow and provide shade and coolness during the hot summer.

Planting options for conifers (flower beds):

The distance between conifers is determined by the planting method. For example, for a dense hedge, cypress trees are often planted - literally every meter. In group flower arrangements, undersized shrubs and ground covers can even be planted every half a meter. If it comes to an alley or large-scale plantings of large-sized trees, there are the following standards:

light-loving conifers (larch and pine) - at a distance of 3.5-4 m from each other;
shade-tolerant and shade-loving (all others) - after 2.5-3 m.

Follow-up care

In the case of proper clematis care, he will be able to please his owners with beautiful and lush flowering in the second year. For the first year, you will need to remove all the flowers that appear on the bush, and this must be done even before the buds appear. During this period, clematis are still very weak, they need a lot of strength to strengthen the root system. In the case of flowering, the bush will consume them for this process and will ultimately become very weak, which will affect its further growth.

Watering

Young clematis require a lot of moisture. They need to be watered often, but not so abundantly. Do not allow waterlogging or drying out of the earth. It will be enough to moisturize the plants 2 or 3 times a week.

Under one young bush, you will need to pour 5 liters of water. After watering, be sure to loosen the ground around it.

Fertilizer

In the first year, you should not make any additional fertilizing. This is permissible only if, when planting in the ground, the useful substances necessary for clematis have already been added. In the second year, nitrogen fertilizers can be used, but the dosage should not be too large, because this can lead to the fact that the bush will have a large number of shoots, and there will be too few flowers on it. In addition, complex fertilizers from potassium and phosphorus can be applied before flowering.

Tying

It is very important for clematis, because the further development of the bush, as well as its protection from various diseases, will depend on it. Most often, such plants are tied to special supports that are installed when it is planted.

First you need to fix the very bottom of the bush, this should be done as close to the ground as possible. This will protect the clematis from any mechanical damage.

The vine must be distributed in the form of a fan. In the future, the shoots themselves will be able to grow in the desired direction.

Pruning

Sanitary pruning should be carried out annually. This can be done throughout the season. In this case, it is necessary to remove all dry and diseased shoots. In addition, there is also autumn pruning. However, it is carried out in different ways and depends on the type of clematis.

Experts distinguish three groups of pruning.

The first group includes those plants whose flowering begins in late May or early June. Most often this happens on shoots from the previous year. Such clematis can not be cut off for the winter, but done after flowering, and then only if the vines are too tall. However, do not forget to remove the flexible branches from the supports and shelter them from frost.
The second group includes clematis, which bloom both on previous shoots and on the stems of this year. Their pruning should be done 2 times a year. For the first time - in May, when last year's vines bloom. It is the old shoots that need to be cut off. The second pruning is needed only before the onset of the first frost, and the vines of the current year must be removed. It is worth removing a third of the shoots.
The third group includes plants that bloom on young shoots. Full pruning in this case is carried out in the fall, after which the plant is covered.

Preparing clematis for the winter period

Although clematis is frost-resistant, it is best to cover them for the winter. You can use a variety of materials for this. It can be earth, and dry leaves, and humus, and spruce branches, that is, what will be at hand. In the event that any rodents were seen on the territory of the site, it is imperative to put a means to fight them under the shelter. From above, clematis can be additionally covered with a knocked down wooden shield to protect the bush from getting wet.

Opening clematis in spring

As soon as the snow melts and it is quite warm outside, you can remove the covering material. After that, experts recommend treating the bush with special agents for fungal infections. In addition, you will need to feed the plant with ammonia fertilizer.

Astilba: planting and care

When planting plants, the quality of the planting material is of great importance. In order for the plant survival rate to be one hundred percent, it is worth considering some of the requirements for the rhizomes intended for planting.

Astilba planting Astilba rhizomes should not have dead, rotten parts. Overdrying or excessive moisture of the planting material is not allowed during storage.

Young shoots should not be elongated, curved or wrinkled.

Of course, specimens with elongated sprouts can also take root, but then the plant can lose its decorative effect and hurt for a long time.

Choosing a comfortable place for a flower

It should be remembered that astilba is a plant for partial shade, bright sunlight is destructive for it. Planting a flower culture in open, unprotected spaces from sunlight is undesirable.

In addition, flowers do not respond well to areas with high groundwater levels and stagnant water. This leads to the soaking and damping of the rhizomes. Cultivation of a crop in such areas will not do without a reliable drainage device. And if it is not possible to equip it, you need to choose a higher place for planting plants.

Planting astilba in open ground: determine the size of the holes

The depth of the planting pit is required to be provided individually for each plant, taking into account the size of the rhizome. The root system of the astilba should be freely placed in the planting pit, while deepening the bush or filling the growth point with soil is not allowed. A hydrogel can be added to the bottom of the pits, it will help maintain soil moisture; as well as bone meal, ash and mineral fertilizers - 1 matchbox each.

Astilba should be planted in a well-moistened soil.

The surface of the earth can be mulched with bark or peat chips, which will keep the soil evenly moist, and in the future, will protect the roots of the plant from drying out.

Plant care

Astilbe bushes grow by about 3-5 cm in height per year. Plant care measures are reduced to adding soil under the bare parts of the rhizome. Fertile soil is added in a layer of 2-3 cm.

Planting maintenance requires maintaining soil moisture. To do this, add a mulching layer (peat, bark, expanded clay or landscape crushed stone) on top of the planting soil. In winter, mulch on the surface of the soil helps to protect delicate rhizomes from freezing.

The combination of uniform watering and keeping the soil moist is the key to plant health and lush flowering.

Caring for astilbe is very simple

The decorativeness of the plant is supported by periodic pruning of dead stems. It is necessary to regularly remove faded inflorescences from the bushes, this is especially true when using astilba in landscape design when decorating territories.

Landing site preparation

If specific yellow and red daylilies will grow in almost any conditions - it is not for nothing that they are called flowers for lazy people, then for exquisite hybrids it will be necessary to create all the conditions for care in order to admire their luxurious flowering. And the first rule of caring for daylilies is soil preparation. There are many requirements for it:

high fertility - there should be a lot of humus in the soil;
loose structure;
moisture and air permeability;
neutral or slightly acidic reaction - pH in the range from 6 to 6, 7, permissible from 5 to 7;
the depth of the fertile soil layer should be large - up to 50 cm.

All other types of soil will have to be improved:

sandy soil requires the introduction of clay and a large amount of rotted organic matter;
coarse sand, peat, compost are added to the clay soil, and drainage must be done.

There should be no weeds in a flowerbed with daylilies - this is one of the basic rules of care. If it is arranged on virgin soil, you need to select all the roots of weeds in the fall, and plant daylilies next spring. In autumn, the soil is limed if the acidity is too high.

Digging for 1 sq. m 10 kg of humus are introduced. 10 kg of black soil are embedded in sandy soil, and the same amount of sand in clay soil.

It is also important to choose the right site for planting daylilies: natural species will feel good in partial shade, but hybrids need full-fledged sunlight. Only dark-colored daylilies require partial shading during the day to keep the flowers from fading.

Attention! Even on the southern side of bushes or trees, they should not be planted close: competition for food and moisture will be inevitable. When choosing a site, you need to pay attention so that water does not accumulate on it during the rains in summer and after the snow melts in winter, otherwise caring for the plant will not be beneficial

If there is no such site, but you want to plant a daylily, you will have to do drainage and equip high ridges

When choosing a site, you need to pay attention so that water does not accumulate on it during the rains in summer and after the snow melts in winter, otherwise caring for the plant will not be beneficial. If there is no such site, but you want to plant a daylily, you will have to do drainage and equip high ridges

Planting strawberries in the open field in spring

Depending on the chosen method and scheme of planting strawberries (carpet, ribbon, staggered, rows, etc.), seedling bushes are placed at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. If the soil has not been prepared in the fall, a little ash or humus should be added to each hole and sprinkled with soil.

The denser your strawberry planting, the more laborious it will be to care for it and the berry will degenerate faster.

Recently, the method of growing strawberries on black covering material has become very popular. Such planting of plants on agrofibre can significantly reduce the cost of caring for the crop and significantly increase the yield.

So, you have a prepared bed and strawberry seedlings grown independently or purchased from a trusted manufacturer. We proceed directly to planting.

First, you need to dig holes for seedlings 7-10 cm deep, spill them abundantly and fill them with a handful of ash on the bottom of each.

Then place a strawberry seedling in each hole, carefully spreading the roots, sprinkle with earth and compact it with your palm.

When planting, a strawberry seedling should not be deeply buried in the soil! How can I check this? In a properly planted seedling, the apical bud ("heart", the point of growth is the place where the roots turn into leaves) should be strictly at ground level.

1. Correct planting of strawberries. 2. The bush is deeply planted. 3. The plant is planted close to the soil surface

If the bush is deeply buried, it can rot and dry out, and if, on the contrary, it is planted too close to the soil surface, the roots will dry out. With either option, strawberry seedlings will not grow well.

After planting in spring, it is recommended to mulch strawberries with humus or peat crumb layer of 2-3 cm. Usually in spring, strawberries are planted early enough, and to protect them from the cold, plantings can be temporarily covered with foil. When there is a steady warming, the bushes can be opened.

As you can see, planting strawberry seedlings in the open ground in spring should not cause any particular difficulties even for an inexperienced gardener. Do not forget to properly care for the berry during the growing season, and then he will certainly delight you with a bountiful harvest.

Strawberry care calendar from spring to autumn
A complete list of works when growing strawberries for the whole season.

Features of growing daylilies and caring for them

The daylily belongs to the genus Hemerocállis. In the wild, it can be found in the south of the Far East in China and Eastern Siberia. In culture, there are more than 700 varieties and hybrids of daylilies with flowers of any color, except for pure black and absolutely white.

By the way of vegetation, daylilies flowers, planting and caring for which are simple, are divided into deciduous and evergreen. The former are characterized by loss of foliage in autumn and a state of deep dormancy in winter. There are usually no problems with the preservation of daylilies with proper care. Evergreen species of daylilies do not lose their foliage, in tropical conditions they continue to grow all year round and regularly bloom three times during this time. But in the conditions of the middle lane, they will not be able to hibernate without a solid shelter and proper care.

There is an intermediate type - semi-evergreen daylilies. They are not as sensitive to low temperatures as they are to their sharp fluctuations during the winter.

Advice! Shelter such daylily hybrids, regardless of planting time, will also have to.

In general, this culture is quite plastic and with proper care it can be very decorative: the best hybrids of daylilies can have up to 50 flowers on one peduncle, which bloom gradually. Growing daylilies outdoors begins with planting them. You can simply share an existing flower, providing it with proper care in the future.

Growing conditions

Illumination

In natural habitat, wild daylilies grow in partial shade, but it would be a mistake to limit the possibilities of daylily locations in the garden to only diffused lighting: a strict recommendation for growing in shade makes sense only in regions with warm winters and hot climates, in the natural areas of distribution of daylilies and nurseries engaged in selection.

In regions where the bright scorching sun is not at all so intense, in particular, in central Russia, the daylily can be grown in areas with different illumination, to which it adapts surprisingly easily.

Daylilies in regions with severe winters can be grown in light shade, partial shade, in good light, while a sunny location is preferable due to more lush and abundant flowering (the difference is especially noticeable in hybrid varieties, in which only in the bright sun the flower opens completely, and the color is most intense). In the shade, the flowers may not open at all - but for such places you can always choose night daylilies.

Priming

Soil for growing daylilies can be any, provided there is sufficient lightness, looseness, air and water permeability and nutritional value. It is undesirable to choose sandy soils, in which the plants will not have enough moisture, as well as clayey heavy soils, on which they are more likely to get sick.

Depleted soil must be improved at least a few weeks before planting with sand, mineral fertilizers, compost and peat.

Daylilies planting and care in the open field

Daylilies are absolutely unpretentious. They need a sunny location and watering in dry weather - outdoor care is very easy. There is one BUT and it is defined by another name for daylilies: KRASODNEV. Unfortunately, the flower blooms one day, but the next day it blooms the next. And when the daylily has grown and gives many peduncles, then the impression of constant flowering.

By frost resistance, daylilies are divided into:

Sleepers, with foliage dying off for the winter, are the most stable species of daylilies. With the onset of frost, the foliage turns yellow and dies off.
Evergreen - the plant remains green in winter, but in countries with warm climates. It freezes without even turning yellow in the fall. They need to be covered for the winter.
Semi-evergreen daylilies are moderately resistant, more often hybrids between the first two. They hibernate in different ways, depending on the weather. In cold winters they fall asleep, in warm winters they remain green.

This is what the theory says. In practice, we have all three types. We never cover, everyone hibernates and blooms in the same way. There is a single exception, rather related to the growing season.

According to the chromosome set, they are divided into: diploid and tetraploid. This only affects the shape and color of the flower and disease resistance. The more stable ones are tetraploid.

Dampness for the daylily is bad. Stagnant water in spring is fraught with the appearance of root gray rot and the death of the plant. For prevention, it is recommended to water with a solution of copper sulfate in a damp spring (a tablespoon without a top for 10 liters of water).

How to propagate astilba

The plant can be propagated in three ways - by seed, by dividing the root, or by using germinated buds. Astilba does not resist transplants and rather quickly takes root in a new place, then starting its rapid spread.

Reproduction of astilba seeds can only be afforded by a person with incredible patience or honing the skill of breeding garden flower crops. The thing is that astilba seeds are small and grow for a long time.They are harvested in September and sown in boxes in early spring. Even with proper care, they will only germinate three to four weeks after planting. Now they will need to be grown for another year in order to be planted in open ground. And the plants will bloom only in the third year. So if you want to appreciate the beauty of blooming astilba as soon as possible, you will have to use other breeding methods.

Astilba root before planting

Namely, by dividing the root or dividing the bush, as this process is also called. This is the most common and affordable breeding option for astilbe. The bush is dug up, its root is divided into parts, each of which has at least two or three buds and a root of at least 5-7 cm. When dividing in this way in early spring, you can enjoy the flowering of astilba already in the fall.

The third method is something in between the previous two in terms of difficulty. It will take patience for him, too. In spring, one regeneration bud is cut off from an adult plant and transplanted into a prepared substrate in a greenhouse. Here the astilba will take root throughout the year until next spring. After planting in open ground, it will bloom in July-August. This method brings results faster than the first, but it also requires a lot of patience.

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Autumn planting of irises

Planting irises is no more difficult than most other rhizome and bulbous crops. But some of the nuances still need to be taken into account.

Planting irises is simple - no more difficult than other bulbous and rhizome flower crops

Landing dates

You should start planting and transplanting irises 5–6 weeks before the onset of persistent cold weather. In regions with harsh and cold climates, the end of August is most suitable for planting. In the middle lane, where the climate is slightly milder, gardeners can plant flower bulbs in the ground in early and mid-September. The weather of the warm southern regions allows these events to be held until the end of October.

Irises planted in autumn should have time to take root before the cold weather

Irises have been growing in one place for me for several years and blooming very weakly, because the plants interfered with each other. Due to family and unforeseen circumstances, they could not be seated immediately. Hands reached them only at the beginning of September. It was a bit late for a transplant, but I had to take the risk.The first frosts happened two weeks later, and the winter was early and with little snow. Almost all of the irises died.

Video: when and how to plant irises in autumn

Site selection and preparation

For irises, you need to choose a well-lit sunny area, protected from harsh gusty winds, on a small hill with a slight slope to the south side, so that excess moisture is removed, and the plantings are illuminated more evenly. With stagnant liquid or a close location of groundwater, an additional drainage layer will have to be built, since this culture has a superficial root system and does not tolerate excess moisture.

Irises develop better and bloom more abundantly in open sunny areas that are protected from strong winds

Best of all, irises develop and bloom on fatty nutritious loams that have a slightly acidic or neutral reaction. Too acidic soils must be lime beforehand with dolomite flour or fluff lime. 5-7 days before the expected landing date, the land is well dug up with the introduction of the following components:

rotted manure (compost or humus) - 2 buckets per 1 m2;
wood ash - 100–150 g per 1 m2;
potash-phosphorus fertilizers:
- superphosphate - 25-30 g per 1 m2;
- potassium salt - 10-15 g per 1 m2;
sand if the soil is clayey and heavy;
clay substrate on light sandy soils that do not retain moisture well.

Video: choosing a place for irises

Iris planting instructions

The planting material is pre-soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection for 20-30 minutes.

For disinfection, rhizomes of irises can be soaked in a solution of a special preparation for etching

Landing technology consists of the following:

A shallow planting hole (10–12 cm) is dug, in the center of which a mound is formed with a height of about 2–3 cm.
Depending on the variety and size of the plants, from 10 to 50 cm is left between individual specimens during planting.
The seedling is placed on the top of the mound, spreading and spreading the absorbent roots over its slopes.
Sprinkle the roots with earth and compact the soil. In this case, the root collar and some part of the rhizome with a slight bend should be above the soil surface (the bend is turned to the south), and the fan of the foliage should be located vertically.
After that, the soil is moderately moistened (0.5 liters per bush).

Correct planting of iris in the ground

Correct planting of daylilies

To enjoy the sight of flowers, you need to carefully consider each stage of preparation and planting.

Plants need to be planted according to all the rules, only in this case they will delight with flowering.

Selecting a site for planting

First you need to decide on a place for flowers, they require a lot of sun. An open area is best suited; in the shade of abundant flowering, you can not wait. Varieties with brightly colored buds need light shading, they can be grown in partial shade of tall specimens.

Daylily is unpretentious, it gets along with any neighbors, with the exception of tall trees. The soil is preferably slightly acidic or neutral. Heavy soil can be improved by adding 3 kg of peat and up to 10 kg of sand per square meter.

How to prepare the site and soil

If the soil is sandy, it is advisable to fertilize it with compost or mullein, adding about 8 kg per 1 sq. meter. Fresh manure should not be used, it contributes to the occurrence of fungal diseases.

Bushes should be placed at least 1 meter from each other, as well as from neighboring plants, as they grow strongly. The size of the hole depends on the volume of the root system; it should not be cramped in the planting hole.

Preparation of planting material. How to choose seedlings

The perennial is propagated by dividing the bush, and young bulbs or shoots are also dug.

The planting material should not have a painful appearance and damage. Before planting, you need to soak the roots for several hours in water, adding one of the popular growth stimulants.Then you should inspect the roots, removing the blackened and dead. A healthy root system is fleshy and light in color. The areas affected by rot must be removed.

Then the seedling is immersed in a solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. The stems must be trimmed to 25 centimeters, the long leaves evaporate moisture and weaken the perennial.

Daylily planting process

Sequencing:

A hole is made in the ground. Its depth should be about 30 centimeters. A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone should be laid at the bottom as drainage.
The soil removed from the hole is thoroughly mixed with ash (one glass is enough). Superphosphate (80 grams) is added to this mixture.
All together are poured into the bottom of the pit, in the form of a slide.
Then the seedling with straightened roots is placed on the resulting earthen mound.
The hole is filled with soil. It is advisable to press it tightly to the roots. The neck of the plant should not be covered with soil above two centimeters!
At the end of the work, the seedling is watered. Water consumption - from 10 to 15 liters per bush.
Finally, it is recommended to mulch the soil surface to prevent drying out. It will also help protect young roots from freezing in winter. It is advisable to add 5 to 8 centimeters of straw, peat or wood shavings.