Krasivoplodnik bodiniera profusion: planting and care and care in the suburbs and central Russia

How to improve yields

Even the best early and unpretentious varieties can give small yields or berries will not have time to ripen. There are some tips from experienced growers to help speed up the ripening and increase the yield of the grapes.

• The most important thing is to choose the right landing site. Bushes on the south side of buildings or fences feel better. They are protected from drafts and are well lit by the sun.
• You need to feed the grapes regularly. Mineral fertilizers are not recommended to be applied after June, when berries begin to form. But many growers at this time bring in a solution of ash.
• Do not overload the vine. It is recommended to leave 1-2 brushes on one shoot. A strong overload will lead to a decrease in the quality of the berry and can cause the plant to freeze out in winter.
• You need to pinch the stepsons, leaving two leaves. It is not recommended to completely remove them, since new shoots will go from them next year.
• When the berries begin to ripen, you need to tear off the leaves around the bunches so that more sun gets on them. Also at this time, watering is stopped.

Low-growing barberries

Bonanza Gold

• The average height is fifty centimeters, the width of the crown is eighty centimeters.
• Grows well in alkaline areas with adequate sunlight during the day.
• Feels great in hot dry periods, does not tolerate excess moisture and stagnant water in the soil.
• Barberry Bonaza Gold grows well in the suburbs, St. Petersburg, Vladivostok, Crimea, the Caucasus, resistant to cultivation within the city.
• Young shrubs need shelter, and in adulthood, crops do not freeze even in severe frosts - up to minus 34 degrees.

Cobalt (Kobold)

• Suitable for planting in the Moscow region and Central Russia.
• In the first two years after planting, the plants are covered for the winter with spruce branches or peat; in the future, shelter is not required. Hardened shrubs tolerate frosts of thirty degrees well.
• Flowering occurs in May, the edible fruits ripen by mid-autumn.
• A landing site should be chosen in partial shade or in an open area.
• The culture loves moisture, but without stagnant water.
• The variety is endowed with strong immunity and good endurance. It grows well in high gas and dusty conditions.

Bagatelle

• The pinkish-red shades of the foliage retain their color even with the onset of autumn.
• It blooms with white flowers with a yellowish tint, fruits ripened by October adorn the shrub all winter.
• Loves fertile, drained areas with moderate moisture.
• Drip irrigation is recommended.
• It hibernates without shelter in frosts of 23 - 26 degrees.

Artopurpurea Nana (Atropurpurea Nana)

• Transfer frosts up to twenty degrees.
• Numerous shoots are dark yellow at a young age and purple-brown in adulthood, densely covered with thorny thorns up to eight millimeters long.
• The leaves are elongated, red in color; flowers are burgundy outside and yellow inside; fruits are oval, dark red.
• The superficial root system does not tolerate waterlogging.

Each of the varieties of Thunberg barberry will become a worthy decoration of a garden, flower garden, summer cottage or personal plot, winter garden or loggia. The unpretentiousness of this species, its high decorative effect and good winter hardiness allows even inexperienced gardeners to grow. Barberry is personality, beauty, benefit.

1. The best varieties of weigela
2. Description of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea
3. What kind of spirea to choose for planting on the site
4. Forsythia varieties and bush care recommendations
5. Privet shrub: planting and care

Landing rules

Plants planted in the fall may die without having time to take root. Therefore, the most suitable time for planting is spring. It is best to purchase three-year-old seedlings, they adapt faster. The place for the weigela is chosen well-lit by the sun and protected from the wind. This shrub prefers fertile soil, which must be thoroughly loosened after each watering, avoiding compaction. After a place has been chosen, it is required that planting and care are correctly performed for a plant with the name of weigela. In the Moscow region, the competent implementation of these measures is of particular importance due to lower winter temperatures.

A planting pit with a depth of about 50 cm is prepared in advance. A layer of sand or gravel is poured at the bottom of it, which will perform a drainage function to protect the root system from decay

It is important that the distance between the bushes is maintained at least two meters.

Before planting, it is recommended to treat the roots with a stimulant, then carefully place the seedling in the hole and sprinkle with the prepared soil mixture. It is made up of sand, turf and humus (in a ratio of 2: 2: 1). As a fertilizer, you can add potassium salt and superphostphat (40 and 60 grams, respectively, each per one well). It is imperative to mulch the soil half a meter around the seedling, pouring a 10 cm layer of sawdust, tree bark or peat for this.

Although some varieties of shrubs are distinguished by their unpretentiousness, nevertheless, weigela sometimes behaves quite capriciously in the Moscow region. Planting and care, the rules for growing a plant - this knowledge will help to avoid many problems associated with such a heat-loving culture.

After each watering (and it must be carried out regularly, especially during dry periods), the soil must be loosened. It should always be moist, mulching will help protect it from drying out.

Top dressing is applied several times during the season. In the spring, to restore the plant after frost, the bush needs complex mineral fertilizer. Before flowering, it must be fed with double phosphate with potassium sulfate (30 g each for a bucket of water). In the fall, potassium-phosphorus fertilization is applied to prepare the plant for winter.

Features of growing in the suburbs

Not all types of shrubs are suitable for our difficult climate. Even the most unpretentious species of weigela can freeze slightly in winter without shelter. To enjoy lush flowering, you need to responsibly choose the variety and place to place the shrub.

Weigela prefers sunny places, although it grows well in the shade, but then its flowering is not so lush. You need to choose secluded corners of the garden, closed from cold winds. Better to place near buildings on the south or east side. Often the shrub is planted as part of hedges, along with barberry, spirea, juniper. Low-growing varieties thrive on alpine slides.

The soil needs to be loose, with a high humus content and good drainage.Optimal composition: a mixture of humus, garden soil and sand (1: 2: 2). Heavy, overly wet soils are not suitable.

If weigela seedlings are purchased in a store, their age should be clarified. The best specimens take root at the age of 3 - 4 years. As a rule, they are sold with a closed root system, but if the bush has just been dug out in the nursery, the roots must be examined - they should not have growths and seals. A healthy root system of weigela is fibrous, with a large number of small thin roots.

Reproduction methods

Let's dwell on this in order to study the issue in more detail. Many novice florists interested in the possibility of growing lavender in the Moscow region are also worried about breeding methods. Is it possible? Yes, there are even several basic ways:

1. Division of the bush. This method works well if you have mature plants at your disposal. To do this, in the spring, you should sprinkle the mother bush with earth in such a way as to separate the layers. In the fall, they can be planted in different places.
2. Cuttings. A simple and convenient way. Cuttings 10 cm long should be cut from lignified shoots in the spring. After that, they are planted in a greenhouse in moist, loose soil. Young plants should be constantly ventilated and watered. In the fall, rooted cuttings can be transplanted to a permanent place.
3. Layers. Another simple and effective way to propagate lavender. In the spring, it is necessary to bend the shoot, then bend it and sprinkle it a little with soil. By the fall, roots will grow in this place. After that, the layering can be simply cut off and transplanted to a new location.
4. Seeds. This is the most difficult method for propagating lavender. Only experienced flower growers can do it. Seeds are usually sown in spring. A couple of months in advance, the seed must be placed in wet sand and kept in the cold. Seeds may not sprout without stratification. Lavender seeds can also be planted in open ground in the fall. Then, in winter, more snow will need to be thrown over this area. However, with such planting in northern latitudes, the seeds may well freeze out.

How to take care of it properly?

Top dressing

Competent care of weigela is largely determined by the correct use of fertilizers. The introduction of dressings can be postponed if, when planting the plant, they were originally laid in the pit. Will have to wait 2 years. The first feeding in the third year of life is carried out in early spring. At this point, you need to use a combined mineral fertilizer. Due to the inclusion of nitrogen compounds in its composition, the accelerated development of green mass is ensured. A suitable option would be ammofosk or diammophosk. Separate application of different fertilizers is also allowed.

The right time for the second feeding is the end of May and the first days of June. Superphosphate is used along with potassium sulfate. But nitrogen fertilizers can not be used categorically. Along with slowing down the formation of woody tissues, they contribute to the active spread of rot.

The third feeding is carried out in the autumn months. Then the following fertilizers are used:

• "Kemira";
• potassium sulfate;
• potassium chloride;
• 0.2 kg of wood ash per square meter.

Watering

Weigela appreciates decent hydration, without it she cannot develop normally. However, waterlogging affects this crop extremely negatively.

Therefore, the care should be moderate, it is very important to maintain a balance. Mulching helps to avoid moisture evaporation too quickly.

Usually, peat and sawdust are used as mulch, but some gardeners use pebbles of a very fine fraction.

Pruning

The procedure is needed, first of all, to improve the aesthetic qualities of the bush. In early spring, all shoots are carefully examined. Having found the slightest black tip, they immediately cut it off. After swelling of the kidneys, the next stage of pruning must be carried out.0.01–0.015 m recede from the revived buds, otherwise the deformed places will rot.

Sanitary pruning should be completed within 14–20 days of the last frost. Be sure to remove shoots, where the buds appear only on the tops, which indicates a strong obsolescence of the branch. Weigela's hardiness is high enough that the plant can be pruned throughout the growing season.

Collecting seeds after flowering

Seed picking time begins in November. We must wait until the boxes are covered with characteristic cracks. To completely avoid the loss of seeds, from the beginning of autumn, the boxes are wrapped with gauze or other cloth with a thin cell, while the air must pass freely. After removing the seeds from the cut boxes, they must be dried. Storage is allowed for a maximum of two years.

Preparing for winter

When preparing weigela for winter, it is important to take care of the normal moisture of the root system. If the weather is rainy, you can already achieve excellent hydration.

But against the background of dry autumn, it is necessary to additionally irrigate the plant. And also you need to take care of maintaining full root growth. Watering the shrub is required whenever the soil is completely dry.

The best option during preparation for wintering is drip irrigation. The last pruning should be done approximately 3 weeks before the onset of frost. All sections with cuts are disinfected with garden pitch. The tool used to carry out the work should be initially disinfected.

Diseases and pests

Weigelu can be eaten by such pests as thrips, aphids, bear and leaf-eating caterpillar. You can recognize the invasion of bears by the appearance of many minks around the bush. To combat them, kerosene or a strong soap solution is suitable. Of the synthetic formulations, Thunder is most often recommended. Aphids are eliminated with garlic or wormwood solution. But if the entire crown or a noticeable part of it is already affected, it is better to use potent factory fungicides.

Of the diseases, the following are dangerous:

• various types of spotting;
• gray rot;
• plant rust.

Preparing for winter

First, clear the area of ​​fallen leaves - the ground should be clean. This is done to prevent various pests, because they winter well under the cover of a layer of foliage and in the spring they will again annoy you.

Then you should treat the root area with a fungicidal preparation - to prevent fungal diseases. After that, the ground around the bush needs to be thoroughly loosened and the trunk of the plant should be surrounded by a 20-25 cm mound.

Put spruce branches on the ground

Carefully tie all the weigela shoots into one bunch and bend it to the ground (in the place where the spruce branches were laid). Cover the shrub with another layer of spruce paws on top and cover with plastic

Secure the shelter with pegs or stones, leaving no gaps for air and water to pass through.

Landing

The exact time of landing is determined based on the characteristics of the local climate. The earth should already warm up well (you can spill the area with hot water several times in advance), but the buds on the seedling should not wake up yet. Weigela is planted in the middle lane in April.

In the planting holes, 40 cm deep, a layer of expanded clay or crushed stone is poured for drainage. Then a layer of nutrient soil is laid, with the addition of a complex mineral fertilizer or nitrophoska, in a dose of 60 g on a bucket of soil. The distance between the holes for large shrubs is 130 - 160 cm, compact species of weigela are placed at a distance of 70 - 80 cm. Planting in hedges is placed closer.

When planting a seedling with a closed root system, it is better not to touch the earthen lump. After placing in the hole, the bush is spilled with water with a root formation stimulant dissolved in it. If the roots are open, the seedling is first kept in a solution with a stimulant, and then planted in the ground, gently spreading the roots

It is important that the root collar is at ground level, it cannot be buried.

After abundant watering of the bush, the soil around is mulched with peat or humus. Daily watering with warm water should be carried out for another 3 - 5 days, so weigela will take root better.

An adult plant is not demanding for watering, and is content with natural precipitation. Only in early spring, if the weather is dry, they carry out water-charging irrigation, spending at least 20 liters of water for each bush. In hot summer, weigela is watered in the evening, with warm water, washing the bush along with the foliage. After watering, the soil around the plant is loosened or covered with mulch.

Fertilizers applied to the planting pit will suffice for the plant for a couple of years. Then, the bush is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer (Kemira, superphosphate - 10 g per meter, or urea - 20 g per meter) at the end of spring. The second top dressing is given during the period of filling the buds (superphosphate - 30 g). In autumn, in order to help the plant prepare for winter, 200 - 250 g of wood ash and the complex composition "Kemir - autumn" are introduced into the trunk circle.

It is important to cut the shrub on time and correctly. Weigela is cut for the first time in the spring, removing frozen, broken and weak branches

The second time they cut the bush after flowering, remove branches with faded shoots. Once every 3 to 4 years, a shaping haircut is carried out, removing unnecessary branches that thicken the crown.

For the winter, young weigela bushes are wrapped in lutrasil, and additionally covered with snow. For adult plants, it is enough to spud the bush with peat or humus to a height of 20 cm, after leaf fall. So that the snow does not break the branches, boards are placed under them or supporting frames are hammered together. In very harsh winters, shoots not covered with snow can freeze out. However, the plant quickly recovers and grows back in spring.

Weigela is ill infrequently, but suffers from the invasion of aphids, spider mites, thrips, caterpillars. It is necessary to periodically inspect the plantings in order to start the fight against the pest in time.

If you manage to create comfortable conditions for the weigela, you can enjoy an ornamental shrub with beautiful flowering for several decades.

Frost-resistant varieties of weigela for the Moscow region

Candida

In shady conditions, the bright color is noticeably lost. Life expectancy is up to fifty years.

• It grows in height - up to two and a half meters, in width - up to three and a half meters. The crown is dense and lush, with drooping shoots.
• The length of light green pointed leaf plates is up to ten centimeters. With the arrival of autumn, they change their color.
• The diameter of the snow-white and slightly pinkish tubular flowers is about four centimeters.
• Formative pruning, timely feeding, soil aeration and regular moderate watering are necessary.
• It is used in all types of landings.
• Frost resistance: up to -33º (zone 4) Moscow region, most of Russia

Nana Variegata

• Very beautiful and large in size flowers attract the eye with white, pink and lilac shades.
• Abundant and long flowering begins in the second half of May.
• Variegated leaves are the highlight of the culture. Their surface is painted in bright green, and the edge is decorated with a creamy white border.
• Prefers drained areas with moist fertile soil.
• In care, it is mandatory - loosening, weeding, mulching, shading from direct rays and shelter for the winter in the first two to three years after planting.
• Winter hardiness: up to -30º, suitable for growing in the middle lane and the Moscow region.

Rosea

Planting seedlings is best done in the spring. A favorable place for planting is a sunny and protected area from strong winds.

• The root part is shallow and well branched.
• The light green oval leaves differ from other species by jaggedness around the edge and a change in color to yellow and purple shades with the arrival of autumn.
• Blooms in all shades of pink (light and dark) throughout the summer.
• It is not afraid of diseases and pests, it is affected by them in rare cases.
• The average height is about two and a half meters. Pruning is recommended every two to three years.
• Frost resistance: up to -30º (zone 4) Moscow region and most of Russia.

Brigela

• The optimal composition of the soil is one part of sod land and two parts of rotted humus and sand. Drainage from gravel or coarse sand is required.
• Differs in fast growth and compact shape.
• Leaves are oblong, sharp, with a yellow edging. Bell-shaped flowers, bright pink. Side shoots original in shape.
• Propagated by seeds and cuttings.
• The average height of the bush and the width of the crown is about 150 centimeters.
• It tolerates frosts up to thirty degrees, can be grown in the Moscow region and most of the middle zone.
• In winters with little snow, young plants must be covered with spruce branches.

Bristol Ruby

After planting seedlings, each year the bush grows twenty to thirty centimeters (in width and height).

• The first (more abundant) bloom begins in June, the second bloom in early autumn, flowers mainly on the tops of plants.
• Bright red loose inflorescences with a delicate aroma consist of four to five bell-shaped flowers, in which the edges of the petals have a ruby ​​tint, and the middle is orange. The average flower diameter is five centimeters.
• Leaves are bright, rich, juicy green.
• It easily tolerates severe frosts down to -35º, but in the first two to three years, shelter is required.
• Unpretentious to the composition of the soil.

Gustave Malle

• Loves moisture, but does not tolerate stagnant water.
• Blooms in May and early September. The diameter of pink flowers with a white edging is about four to five centimeters.
• It develops well on garden soils.
• Crops require regular loosening and weeding, and there has been a positive response to mulching.
• Differs in endurance in severe frosty winters, rarely gets sick.