Planting hazel grouses: soil and process, reproduction and storage of bulbs

Where and how to store hazel grouse bulbs after digging up

Storage space is selected according to several criteria:

low humidity (no more than 65%);
lack of direct sunlight (diffused lighting is allowed, since the bulbs are completely covered with mulch or peat);
temperature from + 25 ° С to + 30 ° С.

The natural conditions of subtropical August are created for the roots, so that the hazel grouses have a full rest, they have laid flower buds for the next spring. The number of inflorescences directly depends on the storage method. Bulbs are not placed at home because of the persistent, pungent odor.

Before the autumn planting, the planting material is harvested in a ventilated place, where the air warms up to the desired mark on the thermometer. The ideal option is the attic, or the ceiling of the shed of another farm building.

The bulbs will have to be stored until September, during which time sprouts and white roots should appear on them. During storage of planting material in a new place, it is periodically checked. Look for rot at the stripping sites

Particular attention is paid to damaged bulbs and scales left for planting. Planting material is covered with unexpected frosts

Important! On bulbs with or without a damaged bottom, rudiments of "babies" are sometimes formed during storage. They do not need to be separated before planting, they can be left to take root.

But there will be no buds from such planting material.

By the end of storage, a sprout is visible from each head, up to four shoots grow from large bulbs. The roots stretch quickly only in high humidity.

To place the heads, choose:

cardboard shoe boxes that are easy to open;
rigid mesh containers (fruit store boxes);
boxes with perforated walls.

"Children" are stored separately, they are planted in remote areas, they will need several years to grow. For full bloom, imperial hazel grouses should grow up to 7 cm in diameter.

By the way, small-bulb varieties are dug up and stored separately so that there is no confusion during the planting period.

Important! The heads are laid out so that they do not touch each other. Instead of peat or dry mulch (chopped straw or dry grass), some growers use parchment paper or old newspapers, wrap each bulb separately

How to plant hazel grouses in the fall

The technology of autumn planting of fritillaria is not particularly complicated, nevertheless, several important points must be taken into account.

Terms of planting works

Since the climate on the territory of our vast homeland varies greatly, when choosing a day for planting hazel grouses, you need to focus on the features of the local climate. For full-fledged rooting, the onions will take about 20-30 days, so this period is counted back from the estimated time of arrival of the first frosts.

Grouse are planted only in the fall, otherwise the bulbs do not ripen completely and do not bloom

As soon as the air cools down to + 4 ... + 6 ° C at night, they start planting, otherwise the flower will not completely take root and die. Approximate dates look like this:

in the middle lane, hazel grouses begin to be planted from the last decade of August to the end of September;
the harsher climate of the northern regions (Ural, Siberia) makes you hurry up and keep within the first two weeks of August;
in the southern regions, where the cold comes much later, bulbs are planted in October.

Site preparation and step-by-step instructions for disembarkation

For fritillaria, an open, slightly elevated, sunny area is chosen, reliably protected from cold gusty winds. But in regions with a hot climate, they are more comfortable in the light openwork shade of large trees.Bulbs do not like the close proximity of groundwater, as well as stagnation of melt water and moisture, so lowlands should be avoided.

Grouse are planted in open sunny places or in light partial shade

Flower bed preparation

Grouse grows best and bloom more abundantly on breathable, very loose, fertile sandy loam and loamy soils. A place for a flower bed must be selected and prepared in advance, a week and a half before the expected day of planting flowers. The earth is dug up, choosing the rhizomes of perennial weeds, simultaneously introducing for each m2:

potassium sulfate (25-30 g) and superphosphate (40-45 g);
compost or humus (1.5–2 buckets) and wood ash (1 glass).

The planting material is pre-etched in a pink, not too strong solution of potassium permanganate (10-15 minutes), Maxim or Fitosporin (according to the instructions).

Landing

When planting hazel grouses, a rule common to all bulbous crops applies: the depth of the bulbs should be three times their diameter.

Planting depth of hazel grouse is the same as for all bulbous

Sequencing:

Dig spacious planting holes or ditches to the required depth (depending on the size of the bulbs).
A drainage cushion of coarse sand or small pebbles is poured onto the bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm.
The drainage is covered with a thin layer (2-3 cm) of nutrient soil mixture.
The bulbs are laid at a slight slope, gently spreading the roots to the sides, at a distance from each other:
- large - 25-30 cm;
- small - 10-15 cm.
Sprinkle with sand on top, covering the bulb completely.
The wells are completely covered with earth and slightly compacted.
Mulch with humus, peat, etc.
Water it after a couple of days if the weather is dry.

With the arrival of stable cold weather, plantings are insulated with a layer (10-15 cm) of dry foliage, needles, straw or sawdust. To keep the snow, spruce branches are additionally covered.

In Siberia, on personal and garden plots, hazel grouses are still quite rare. Many are simply afraid that we are too cold for this culture. However, some have tried to plant fritillaria and are quite successful.

What determines the choice of landing time?

There are several opinions about the timing of planting lilies in open ground. The traditional planting time is autumn, or rather its first half. This is due to the natural cycle of plant development: after flowering, a period of dormancy begins (only a few weeks), after which the growth of the bulb is activated, the roots hatch. As a result, at the very beginning of spring, along with the first rays of the spring sun, a flowering bud appears.

However, sometimes, for various reasons, gardeners choose early spring for planting work. The reasons can be any - from a simple lack of time to taking into account the characteristics of a particular variety. Suppose the Oriental hybrids are thriving, but the North American varieties simply cannot withstand the harsher conditions.

Consider the benefits of an April open-air landing:

bulbs do not need to be buried in the soil and specially insulated, a refrigerator is suitable for storage;
home "wintering" excludes freezing and spoilage, guarantees complete safety;
with good preparation of the soil and bulbs, the plant has time to develop and bloom on time.

There are also disadvantages worth mentioning. For example, in some varieties, the root system does not have time to fully develop, and plants exist only thanks to the strength of the bulb. It is clear that neither the desired growth nor beautiful inflorescences should be expected. Another unpleasant nuance is the absence of children in the "spring" lilies, which are often used for reproduction. By the way, crops planted in autumn give about 10 healthy children.

Tubular varieties are not susceptible to diseases and frost resistant, therefore they are recommended to be grown even in the northern regions.

For more convenient care of the flower garden, it is better to place spring and autumn plantings in different places, since soil preparation, irrigation regime, and top dressing will be radically different.

In late spring, at the end of May, as well as at the beginning of summer, it is not worth planting lilies - the plants grow weak and unprepared, more susceptible to disease. The most suitable period for planting in the middle lane is the end of April.

When to plant lilies with a bulb in open ground: in autumn or spring

When to dig up lilies for transplanting and move them to a new location depends on the variety of flowers and the personal preference of the grower. Everyone chooses the option that suits him.

Planting in spring - pros and cons

Since most varieties are best transplanted in the fall months, growers usually do so. But some people prefer a spring transplant, many lilies tolerate it well.

Pros of transplanting in spring:

You can select the most viable bulbs that have survived the winter well in the refrigerator, and do not have any flaws;
When storing bulbs at home, you can avoid freezing. This is especially true in those regions where winters are especially harsh. And if you overexpose them in a cellar or refrigerator, this problem can be avoided;
In the spring, there are all the necessary conditions for lilies to take root well in a new place.

Storing lily bulbs in the refrigerator

Cons of a spring transplant:

Periodically, it happens that in the spring the root system does not have time to develop completely, then the plant begins to live only at the expense of the bulb. In this case, the ground part develops very poorly, and flowering may not occur at all;
On those bulbs that were transplanted in the spring, babies are not formed (unlike those that were transplanted in the fall). Therefore, it will not work to propagate lilies with the help of children.

Important! Of course, there are not very many disadvantages, but they should not be ignored and these features should be taken into account for the correct reproduction and development of the plant.

Transplant in the fall

Most gardeners agree that the best option for transplanting lilies growing in the open field is autumn. Early or late - depends on the variety. But this method has both advantages and disadvantages.

Benefits of an autumn transplant:

After flowering, the bulbs go into a dormant state, in which the transplant is tolerated calmly.
At the end of the growing season, lily bulbs gain a lot of nutrients that will help them survive the winter.
Bulbs transplanted to a new garden site in the fall have more time to develop a strong root system, which ensures that they will bloom earlier and more luxuriantly next season.
Autumn is a great time for the reproduction of lilies by children, which grow to 10 pieces on an adult bulb.

Lily bulb with babies

Disadvantages of an autumn transplant:

If the plantings are not covered, and winter is expected to be frosty, there is a risk of freezing of the bulbs.
Bulbs dug up in the fall cannot be stored for a long time.
Young lilies transplanted to a new location in the garden in the fall can be an excellent treat for mice.

As you can see, each method has pros and cons, and it is worth focusing, first of all, on the features of the region and the features of the hybrid that needs to be planted.

Is it possible to transplant flowering lilies in summer

Most often, transplanting lilies during the flowering period is a risky undertaking. Only some Asian varieties that bloom early and are the most unpretentious are able to withstand it. But, in order to definitely avoid trouble, it is better to try not to do this.

Transplanting a flowering lily

Why is autumn the best time to plant?

Experienced flower growers transplant the lily in the fall, realizing that this is the best option for the formation of a lush and powerful flowering next season. In the fall, you can not only plant lilies, but also propagate them, due to the formation of a large number of children.The most important thing when transplanting at the end of September - October is to warm the plantings. For the northern and northwestern regions of the country, this must be done with an earlier planting.

How often should lilies be replanted?

Most varieties of lilies develop well in one place for 3-4 years, after which they will need a transplant. Do not do this too often, so as not to disturb the plant bulbs. But after this period, it is necessary to plant flowers, since the supply of nutrients in the soil decreases, the number of bulbs increases, they become cramped with each other, they become smaller, which affects the appearance and condition of the plants.

Asian (oriental) varieties need an annual transplant, since a large number of babies are constantly formed on the bulbs and the bulbs grow very quickly.

An example of an Asian hybrid

Tubular lilies can be replanted annually or once every two years due to the formation of many children.

American hybrids are able to grow quietly in one place for up to 10 years. However, they will not experience any discomfort.

Grouse flower - description

Grouse flowers are perennial plants that reproduce by underground bulbs, consisting of several fleshy scales. Some species of scales that have grown together as a whole, some only half, there are species with non-accrete scales, and there are those that have buds in their axils that give life to a new plant. Grouse bulbs are renewed annually. They consist of lower scales, and they usually do not have integumentary scales. From the hazel grouse bulb, a stem rises with narrow-linear or oblong-lanceolate leaves, located whorled or scattered. Bracts are erect or spirally twisted. Large drooping bell-shaped or kubarevidny flowers, single or forming an umbrella-shaped or paniculate inflorescence at the top of the stem, can be colored yellow, red, white, purple, and can be spotted. At the base of each perianth leaf there is a triangular, round or oval depression - a nectary. The fruit of the hazel grouse is a hexagonal three-celled capsule with numerous seeds.

Many species of hazel grouse are poisonous because they contain alkaloids, but bulbs such as the hazel grouse are edible: the North American Indians and Kamchadals called them "northwest rice". Some other tubers were eaten instead of bread. In addition, in Tibetan and Chinese folk medicine, many types of hazel grouses are used as a healing drug.

What is the transplant for?

Those who are just starting to plant these flowers often question the advisability of systematic holding of this event. It seems that a lily is growing for itself, every year it pleases with its beauty - well, what else is needed, why bother her once again. After all, transplanting any plant is a kind of stress for him. Well, how does it not take root in a new place? The author considers it necessary to give some explanations to those who are worried about the result of their labor and want to grow really beautiful flowers.

Many have heard of such a concept as crop rotation. And what is its meaning? Plants consume a certain set of nutrients from the soil. It is different for each culture. And if in one place, for many years, to grow the same (in this case) flower, then the earth is gradually depleted.

Artificial feeding partially neutralizes the deficiency of certain vitamins, but not all summer residents do this regularly. And it is quite difficult to figure out the optimal dosage of fertilizers on your own, especially with a lack of experience in agricultural technology for the reason that you have to take into account a lot of factors. Consequently, over time, the so-called ecological balance of the soil is disturbed. As a result, although the lily will not stop growing, its flowers will gradually become smaller, and their beauty will gradually fade.

For a lily plant, soil oversaturation with moisture is destructive. It is rather difficult to regulate this process.Firstly, many summer residents on the site are occasional, so they abundantly irrigate the land, trying not only to make up for lost time, but also with a view to the future, until the next time. Secondly, interruptions in water supply in gardening associations violate the required regularity of watering the territory.

If we add precipitation, underground aquifers that periodically change their configuration, melting snow, improperly organized drainage (or its complete absence) on the site, then it is hardly worth hoping for the integrity of the lily root system. Consequently, another task that is pursued during their transplantation is monitoring the condition of the bulbs.

And it's not even a single flower. If the tuber is rotten, then, given the rather dense planting and growth of lilies on the site, the entire "infection" will gradually move to other bushes. A preventive inspection of the bulbs and the timely adoption of the necessary measures will ensure that the lilies will develop and bloom normally.

The peculiarity of some varieties of lilies is that over time, "babies" appear on the tuber. By themselves, these onions are not some kind of atavism - a completely natural process. But if they are not removed in time, then some of the nutrients that the roots take from the soil will be consumed by them. Accordingly, the "parent" will get much less. This leads to the fact that the lily does not develop so intensively, and its flowering can only be indicated. In fact, the summer resident will see mainly one greenery and several half-opened small buds.

As already noted, there are quite a few varieties of lilies that are cultivated in garden plots. Not all of them can survive our winters directly in the ground. For them, a transplant is not a choice of a summer resident, but a necessity. In the fall, they are dug up for storage at home, and planted in open ground in the spring. More detailed information on all the nuances of autumn care for lilies, depending on their variety and climatic features of the region, is set out here.

Regular transplanting of lilies is dictated by another of its features, which people with little experience in growing lilies do not even suspect. As the roots develop, they literally pull the bulb into depth. For example, if it was initially submerged by 10 cm, then after a couple of years it may be 15 - 25 centimeters lower (depending on the density of the soil). This leads to the fact that from year to year it is more and more difficult for the sprouts to break through the thickness of the earth to the top, and many of them do not "hatch".

When to plant imperial hazel grouse in open ground in the fall, in what month

In order for fritillaria to take root normally in the soil, it is necessary to choose the most suitable time for the procedure. After all, if you plant too late, then the bulbs may not have time to take root and easily freeze out. And if you plant too early, then because of the warm, favorable conditions, it will start to grow, which, when the snap gets cold, will lead to its weakening or even freezing.

When is it better to plant the bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse, in what month? Depending on the conditions, the procedure is carried out from late August to mid-October. But you need to focus, first of all, on the weather and climatic conditions. When choosing a planting time in the fall, you must take into account the following criteria:

There should be 3-4 weeks before the first autumn frosts.
The soil temperature should drop to 7-10 degrees Celsius at a depth of 15 centimeters.
The air temperature during the day should be about 10-15 degrees Celsius (but not lower), and at night about 5 degrees Celsius (and also not lower).

In different regions of our country, in which gardeners and flower growers live, climatic conditions differ, therefore, the first autumn frosts occur at different times. Therefore, it is necessary to allocate the approximate dates for planting the bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse in open ground in the fall in different regions:

In the Middle zone (Moscow region) - mid-September (under favorable conditions, the entire second half of September);
In Siberia, in the Urals, in the North-West (Leningrad Region) - late August-early September;
In the South (Krasnodar Territory (Kuban), North Caucasus) - late September, early October (if the weather permits, the entire first half of October).

Planting dates for hazel grouse according to the lunar calendar

If you can easily determine the total landing time for fritillaria, then how to choose a specific day for the most effective disembarkation? The cycles of the moon will come to the rescue, which help summer residents and gardeners in many garden affairs.

Planting dates for imperial hazel grouse according to the lunar calendar 2019:

Auspicious days:
- in August - 4, 5, 6, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 28, 29;
- in September - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 30;
- in October - 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27.
Unfavorable days:
- in August - 15, 16, 30, 31;
- in September - 14, 15, 28, 29;
- in October - 14, 28.

When is it better to plant fritillaria: spring or autumn?

As you probably already understood, in this material we are talking about an autumn planting. But perhaps the question has ripened among many: when is it better to plant a flower culture - in autumn or spring?

The answer to this question is unambiguous: planting hazel grouse bulbs in open ground should be done in the fall! And there are a number of good reasons for this. First, the royal plant needs a long rest period at low temperatures to form flower buds. Secondly, during the spring planting, the bulbs will not have time to ripen and can easily die during the autumn planting (after all, the bulbs need to be dug out at the beginning of summer, and then planted in the fall in the same year).

The best varieties of lilies

A huge number of varieties of lilies are known and it is not easy to determine the best ones in all respects. Let's highlight only some of the most popular and well-known varieties.

Anastasia (Anastasia) - a hybrid of a lily with pale pink petals and curled, wavy edges. In cold weather, the flowers become even brighter. Plant height - 90-120 cm.

Black beauty (Black Beauty) - the flowers of these unusual lilies seem to always droop. More than a dozen flowers bloom on each inflorescence. It is enough to cut just one branch to get a luxurious bouquet. The variety is hybrid, winter-hardy, the stems grow up to 190 cm.

Citronella (Citronella) - bright yellow beauty from the group of tiger lilies will decorate any garden. The petals are strewn with cherry dots. Citronella blooms, unfortunately, not for long, but it exudes a pleasant aroma and is very resistant to various adverse conditions.

Excelsior (Excelsior) - oriental hybrid with massive flowers with a diameter of 20 cm, which have a very strong spicy aroma. Suitable for planting in shaded areas and requires shelter only during the first wintering.

Golden Stone (Golden Stone) - when choosing this variety, remember that the plant has practically no smell. The flowers are lemon yellow with dense cherry specks. The stem rises to a height of 110 cm.

Scheherazade (Scheherazade) - this flower seems to have come down to us from the Persian carpet from the fairy tales "A Thousand and One Nights". Variegated flowers of amazing color appear on the stems in the second half of summer. The height of hybrid plants reaches 120-180 cm.

Sophie (Sophie) - wine-red with a yellow border, the flowers of this variety are directed straight up. They have a very strong aroma, grow up to almost 180 cm. Lily is resistant to fungal diseases and cold weather.

Top Gun (Top Gun) - this belligerent name carries a delicate and fragrant flower with light purple pink petals and elegant specks. It is suitable for both single and group landings.

Two Some (Tu Sam) - rich dark orange flowers with maroon spots are striking in their brightness. They will successfully fit into the design of any garden, however, they do not smell at all.

White Pixels (White Pixels) - in one plant beauty, grace and perfection are perfectly combined. This lily blooms for a very long time, it is unpretentious and frost-resistant. The stem height reaches 110 cm.

Thanks to a timely transplant, lilies can be kept healthy and attractive for a long time. The signal that the plant should be rejuvenated should be a reduction in the number of peduncles and a decrease in the size of flowers. Do not delay the division and transplantation, and then you will not have problems with lilies.

Longiflorum lily care at home

Longiflorum is very sensitive to winter frosts and various fungi.Growing this variety outdoors is challenging. Indoors, this plant feels much more comfortable.

Lighting

Under natural conditions, the plant loves both bright light and diffused shadow, therefore, a similar climate should be created in indoor conditions. With the onset of spring, as soon as the first shoots germinate, the flowerpot with the bulb is transferred to a lighter place. In May, you can take the pot outside, preferably in a slightly shaded area. When a plant is in the flowering phase, it needs good lighting.

Temperature and humidity

The prerequisites for growing long-flowered lilies are spaciousness and cool temperatures at night. The night air temperature during the period of intensive growth should not be higher than 12 ˚С. Sometimes flower growers plant the bulb in a flowerpot in the fall, after which the plant is transferred to a cool place. The room with the plant should have moderate air humidity. Plant leaves can be sprayed with room temperature water, but not too often.

It will also be interesting: Planting lilies in the fall - when and how to transplant a flower to another place and in what month

Watering and feeding

From the moment of germination of young shoots and before the onset of cold weather, the earth in the flowerpot should be moist. Watering should be done in moderation, as excess water can harm lilies.

During the dormant period, the flower does not need watering, but during intensive growth, the frequency of watering should be increased.

Experienced gardeners advise feeding Longiflorum with liquid fertilizers. Top dressing is applied in three stages:

The first time it is necessary to feed before the growth of the plant.
The second dressing is applied when the buds begin to form.
The last time they are fed is in August or when the flowering phase ends.

Preparing for winter

If the flower grows in the open air, you should think about preparing it for winter. Leaving the bulb in the ground is extremely dangerous - a tropical hybrid can die during winter frosts. The first step in preparation is to trim the stem. After flowering, the lily begins to grow seed pods. If they are not needed for breeding, it is better to remove them so that the flower does not waste energy. The plant is finally cut off only when the leaves and stem are completely dry. You can trim it completely, but it is better to leave hemp up to 0.15 m in size.

A long-flowered lily can overwinter in the ground, but on condition that it is under cover. The most common shelter material is pine or spruce sawdust. You can additionally sprinkle peat on the layer of insulation so that the sawdust does not scatter. In especially cold regions, a special material is used to shelter lilies. If the plant hibernates in open soil, fertilizer must first be applied in the form of rotted leaves or compost, which will cover the bulb in extreme cold.

Wintering lilies in the open field

The Longiflorum-Asian hybrid, although a very frost-resistant variety, should be dug up in the fall. During the growing season, a large number of small children grow on the bulb, so they should be separated from the mother plant in the fall.

Like garden specimens, indoor lilies enter a resting phase after flowering. The stem and leaves gradually die off. The pot with the plant can be moved to a cool cellar or pantry until spring.

Diseases, pests

Most often, long-flowered specimens are subject to fungal diseases and various rot. To prevent this from happening, you should water moderately, and also loosen the soil. To treat a flower from these diseases, fungicides are used.

Pests can be found both in the ground and on the bulb itself. The most common of them are: aphids, thrips, nutcracker, lily fly. An insecticide should be purchased to control these insects.

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