Planting and caring for chrysanthemums (48 photos): how to grow chrysanthemums outdoors in the garden and at home

Reproduction and transplantation of chrysanthemums in the garden: how to care correctly

Please note that all perennial plants must be propagated exclusively by dividing the rhizome, as well as by cuttings. Seeds can be grown, but no one can guarantee that they will retain varietal characteristics. In most cases, when growing chrysanthemums from seeds, selection must be started from the very beginning. Transplanting and reproduction of such beautiful flowers should be carried out in late spring or early summer, while the plant has not yet thrown out the buds and is not going to waste energy on flowering.

However, circumstances may develop in such a way that planting material appeared closer to autumn, which confuses novice florists. Before the beginning, or in extreme cases, until mid-September, the flowers can still germinate, if you have time, they will take root and overwinter quite easily. However, it is better not to leave late seedlings in the open field, but to plant them in a wide, but not deep pot, and then put them in a place where the temperature will not drop below five degrees Celsius, but will not rise higher either. The plant will need to be watered regularly, but not too abundantly.

At the end of winter, if possible, the plants can be transferred and planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, where they will need to be watered much more often and more abundantly than in winter, in order to convey to them that it is time to start growing. However, this is not all, it is worth finally mentioning diseases and pests from which you will have to protect and protect flowers, because they simply have no other protection.

Ticks and aphids do not tolerate high humidity, if you regularly water it, you can easily get rid of this scourge. It is quite possible that even spraying the stems and flowers will help, the main thing is that the water is clean, soft and settled.
Caterpillars, as well as leaf rollers and snails do not tolerate such drugs as Fitovermi, Ratibor, Aktara and others, you can get better advice and find out more in a specialized store.
Inspect stems, plants, and flowers as often as possible to detect threats immediately and eliminate them in time. Damaged plant parts, leaves, stems or flowers should be removed immediately and removed from the site, and then closely monitor the plants.

It turns out that there is nothing complicated and unrealistic about caring for a garden chrysanthemum and even an absolute beginner can cope with such a task. The main thing here is attentiveness and sequence of steps, and the flower will do the rest by itself and will delight you for a long time with a magnificent view and wonderful aroma.

Reproduction

There are 3 main ways of propagation of bush chrysanthemums - by seeds, cuttings or by dividing a bush. We will consider each of the methods in more detail separately, but first you should remember that the soil must be loose, well permeable to water and air, and it must also contain a large amount of nutrients and minerals. If your flower bed is located on clay, you can successfully grow chrysanthemums thanks to intensive fertilization - it will grow without that, but with a high degree of probability it will not withstand winter.

Growing from seed for most flowers is considered a relatively difficult method, and most often this method is resorted to in a situation where a breeding species needs to be developed. If you decide to go the hard way, start by pouring the seeds into a pot with soil in January - do not bury, but pour them onto the surface. Take care of the drainage pad - there should be a layer of expanded clay or gravel at the bottom of the pot.At an ideal temperature of + 17 ... 18 degrees, you can expect sprouts to appear in 15 days - when they get stronger, dive them into individual pots. Make sure that the soil in the containers never dries out, regularly restore the moisture balance with a spray bottle.

Propagation by cuttings turns out to be a much simpler task, it is exactly what most amateur gardeners use. For cutting cuttings, you must choose a plant with flawless root growth with at least 2-3 internodes. Cuttings need a nutrient medium, which is formed from sand of the middle fraction, humus and black soil in a ratio of 1: 2: 4. In this mass it is sunk by about 3 cm and kept at a temperature of + 18 ... 20 degrees, so that it takes root. It is advisable to cover the "bed" with a polyethylene dome, which helps to maintain the required temperature and humidity. After a couple of weeks, chrysanthemums that become independent need to be fed with something like "Rainbow" or "Ideal". The cutting usually spends about a month on the formation of a full-fledged root system, and after this period it can be planted in open ground.

Dividing the bush is one of the few ways of chrysanthemum propagation that prevents planting from degeneration. Once every 3 years, it is necessary to completely dig out the bush and divide it into equivalent parts (each must have its own root system), which are planted at a considerable distance from each other

When digging up, it is important not to damage the roots, although too long and simply old roots can and should be cut off. As in the case of cuttings, there are two successful seasons for this - late spring and late summer.

If you ignore such a requirement, you will become the culprit for thinning bushes and chopping flowers.

Diseases and pests

Diseases

If you do not adhere to agricultural practices or there are dense thickets of chrysanthemums in your flower bed, then the risk of their being affected by a fungal disease increases:

Verticillary wilting. The fungus first enters the root system of the plant. After a while, the foliage of the affected bush turns yellow, and the shoots die off.
Powdery mildew. In a diseased plant, a whitish bloom appears on the surface of foliage, stems, flowers and buds.
Rust. In the affected chrysanthemum, chlorotic spots form on all its aboveground parts, after a while they become brown, and yellowing of the foliage and thinning of the shoots are observed.
Gray rot. Brown spots with blurred edges form on the plant, on the surface of which, after some time, a fluffy bloom appears, which causes rotting.

In order to cure flowers affected by a fungal disease, it is recommended to use products that contain copper, for example, copper oxychloride is very effective in combating gray rot, septoria and rust. Rust can still be removed with colloidal sulfur and copper-soap emulsion, and Bordeaux mixture is used to combat gray mold and powdery mildew. For the purpose of prevention, be sure to provide the flowers with good care, adhere to the rules of agricultural cultivation and do not allow the plantings to thicken. Also, regularly inspect the bushes, as this will help identify symptoms of the disease at an early stage.

In some cases, such a plant can infect a very dangerous viral disease:

Mosaic. A speckled mosaic appears on the surface of the foliage.
Aspermia. In the affected bush, flowers are deformed, and the foliage becomes speckled.
Dwarfism. A diseased plant is stunted and blooms ahead of time.

All these diseases today are incurable, therefore, after the discovery of a sick bush, it must be removed from the site as soon as possible and burned.For prevention purposes, do not allow harmful insects to appear on the flowers, which are the main carriers of viruses, and also a sterilized sharp instrument must be used to cut cuttings or dividing the bush into parts.

White chrysanthemum rust (Puccinia horiana Henn.)

Pests

Of all the insects, nematodes are the most commonly harmed crops. If they live on a bush, then mosaic spots form on its foliage, after a while their color becomes darker. It is impossible to get rid of such a pest; only preventive measures will help here. To do this, in the fall, during transplanting, planting or digging a bush, it must be treated with Phosphamide, and the soil near it is sprayed with Formalin. All infected plants must be dug up and burned.

Aphids, which live on the lower surface of buds and leaf plates, can also harm the chrysanthemum. Both adult insects and larvae feed on plant sap, which they suck from the bush, this leads to a slowdown in its growth and flowering. If there are few aphids on the plant, then they are simply destroyed along with the torn leaves. If there are a lot of pests, then the bush will need to be treated with a solution of Aktara or Aktellik, to which laundry soap is added.

A meadow bug can also settle on flowers, adults and larvae of which also feed on plant sap. Because of this, the buds do not open, and the foliage becomes stained, becomes brown and dies off. To save the bush, it is treated with a solution of baby shampoo (1 tsp for 1 bucket of water). For preventive purposes, the plants are sprayed with Phosphamide.

Gastropods (slugs and snails), which devour both flowers with foliage and shoots, can still greatly harm the chrysanthemum. It is recommended to deal with them in gentle ways, otherwise you can disrupt the ecosystem of the garden plot, where such gastropods perform an important sanitary function. In this regard, it is better to resort to preventive measures: the correct combination and selection of crops, natural control of the number of snails and slugs by attracting birds, etc. headbands that prevent slugs and snails from getting close to flowers. And you can also cover the soil surface with a thin layer of crushed eggshell, and you can also put bowls filled with beer near the flower bed in several places, pests will surely creep onto its aroma, which you just have to collect. There are also many other ways to help keep your plants safe from voracious gastropods.

Perennial garden chrysanthemum: planting and care, photo, cultivation

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds

Seeds. The easiest way to propagate a flower is by grafting or by dividing the mother plants, but many also prefer to grow chrysanthemums from seeds. Seed propagation can be used to grow both perennial and annual varieties. In May, when the spring frosts pass, in the holes that are located 25 cm from each other and are spilled with warm water, it is necessary to put 3 seeds each, and then sprinkle them with earth, cover the bed with a garden film to keep moisture and heat in the soil. When the first shoots appear, this film can be removed, the soil can be gently loosened, while destroying all weeds. After another 10 days, it is recommended to feed the seedlings with highly diluted "Ideal" or "Rainbow". When the sprouts reach a height of 10 cm, it is necessary to leave one strong seedling with four leaves in the hole. The rest of the shoots can be planted elsewhere. Plants will bloom in early August. If you want the flowers to bloom earlier, you must first grow seedlings from the seeds.
Seedling.Growing seedlings must be carried out at room temperature in shallow boxes with soil, which consists of equal parts of peat, humus and greenhouse soil. It is recommended to purchase the ready-made mixture in specialized stores, where it is sold after disinfection and disinfestation. If you decide to make the soil mixture yourself, then do not forget that the soil must be sieved and calcined in advance at a temperature of 130 degrees. At the bottom of the box, it is necessary to put a layer of drainage from broken brick or expanded clay. Then a soil mixture is placed on the drainage layer, and seeds are laid out on it. The seeds of annuals must be sprinkled with a layer of soil half a centimeter, and the seeds of perennials are not covered with soil, but only slightly pressed against the ground. After that, the soil surface must be sprayed with water from a spray bottle, cover the boxes with foil or glass and keep them at a temperature of 23 to 25 degrees. From time to time, the boxes need to be ventilated, sprayed with warm water so that the soil does not dry out. With proper care of the seedlings, the first shoots appear in a week and a half. After that, the boxes can be transferred to the brightest place, gradually begin to accustom the seedlings to the environment. To do this, the glass or film is removed first for one hour, and then for two, and so on, until the time comes to remove the coating altogether. If the seedlings turned out to be too thick, then when several leaves appear, they must be dived in a glass with the same soil, trying not to harm the root system. To do this, before diving, it is necessary to abundantly moisten the soil in the boxes. Weakened and too elongated seedlings are thrown away. After picking, it is recommended to spray the seedlings with a solution of zircon or epin, so that the plants will take root faster.
Saplings. Dived seedlings must be kept in a room with a temperature of 16 to 18 degrees. Seedlings are watered only if necessary. It is necessary to feed young plants twice a month with a solution of complex fertilizer, which can be purchased at a specialized flower shop. If necessary, additional artificial lighting can be arranged. It is necessary to be prepared for the fact that chrysanthemum seedlings grow rather slowly. In a month and a half, they will only grow 20 cm in height.

At what distance to plant chrysanthemums

You need to know not only when to plant chrysanthemums in the open ground in spring, but also at what distance to plant them. These flowers love space, do not like crowding. The minimum distance between two young plants, planted in open ground on the same strip, should be 30 cm, the maximum - 50. The more, the better. Each stalk is sprinkled with plenty of earth. The roots should lie practically on the surface; they should not be deepened too much into the ground.

Small, compact seedlings do not need additional support. However, next to large spreading specimens, it is recommended to install wooden or metal posts. This will help the stem to reach up and not bend over from the wind and rain.

After the cuttings are planted, each piece is pinched. This is necessary in order to remove the growth point. The final stage of work is watering and artificial shading, for this you can use any covering material.

The depth of the chrysanthemum pit should be on average 35-45 cm, no more. A drainage layer should be laid on the bottom, as well as a nutrient mixture consisting of soil and vermicompost. This will help the flowers take root faster and get all the nutrients they need.

Interesting. Charcoal is sometimes added to the nutrient mixture as a natural adsorbent. It also has the property of disinfecting the soil.

Planting and leaving

It is recommended to plant santini at a time when sudden frosts can no longer kill the plant, that is, not earlier than May. First of all, a place is selected:

loose soil;
without stagnation of water;
the soil is preferable to the fertile type.

Before planting, the soil is thoroughly loosened, fertilized with organic matter, ideally a drainage layer is formed. If the ground is watery, drainage is a must for planting. It is necessary to form a hole at a depth of approximately 45 cm and lay a drainage layer. As it is used:

broken brick;
pebbles;
ceramic shards, other materials.

A layer of soil is formed on top, on which the plant is placed. Sprinkle with soil, moisten. Mulching with sawdust, shavings, needles is necessary. Chrysanthemums of this type are not particularly capricious and do not require complex care procedures. However, it is necessary to know the general rules of quality care, which is necessary for abundant flowering and healthy plant growth.

In addition to lighting, chrysanthemums also need a warm air temperature. Lush blooms can only be achieved with sufficient heat. Any negative departure affects the quality of flowering.

Proper hydration is also important, as santinis love water:

watering should be moderate, but regular;
abundant moisture is a prerequisite after planting for several days;
after flowering appears, watering is reduced;
in normal mode, it is enough to water the flowers every 2-3 days;
stagnation of water is contraindicated.

Top dressing is another prerequisite for the health and development of santini. To do this, apply:

during the formation of buds - compounds with potassium and phosphorus;
during the formation of foliage - compositions with potassium;
during the formation of the root system, stem and first leaves - ammonium nitrate.

Despite the rather good winter hardiness, the bush should be covered for the frost period. This is done as follows:

the shelter is created by using spruce branches, mulching;
by transplanting into containers and transferring an indoor-type room, in the spring the flower is again planted in open ground.

How to care?

For chrysanthemums, regardless of the type and variety, it is important to provide competent and constant care. This culture is considered unpretentious, so gardeners rarely face serious difficulties in caring for it.

Let us consider in detail what the care of this non-capricious plant should be.

Watering

Chrysanthemums love water, so the substrate in which they grow should always be slightly damp. If we are talking about indoor flowers, then here during the growing season it is necessary to water at least 2 times a week. Overdrying the earthen coma should not be allowed. Stagnation of liquid must be avoided in the sump. If it is a sultry day, watering the flower from a spray bottle will be useful. It is recommended to do this in the morning or in the evening. It is possible not to moisturize the chrysanthemum in the heat, but then it will dry out and will not look so attractive. There are drought-resistant varieties, for example, "Snegurochka", but they still should not be exposed to excessive drying out.

If the flower is planted in open ground, then the irrigation system will be as follows:

in the early stages of growth, flowers should be watered about 1 time per week;
it is important to properly wet the upper layers of the soil;
in the summer, when the temperature rises, watering may be more frequent;
by the time of flowering in September, watering should be done at least 3 times in 7 days.

Top dressing

Chrysanthemums require a wide range of nutrients. These include not only nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, but also sulfur, calcium, magnesium. Components such as iron and manganese will also be needed. Boron, copper and zinc in small volumes will be useful. Experts strongly recommend feeding the plant in question with a full-fledged fertilizer in the complex. The best formulas are: NPK 5-10-10 or NPK 5-10-5.If the flowers were planted this spring, then a couple of dressings per season will be enough. If chrysanthemums were planted a year or two ago, then they will need to be fed throughout the summer season and in the fall once a month.

Lighting

Chrysanthemums are short-day plants. They are initially planted so that the petals are not burnt by aggressive sunlight. This flower is very light-loving, but the light should be diffused. If the chrysanthemum is grown at home on a windowsill, then it is advisable to put the pot on the west or east side. This way she will receive the right amount of light, but she will not get burned. On the street, in open ground, chrysanthemums are not recommended to be planted in too dark areas. As mentioned above, under these conditions, flowers will develop poorly and slowly - they will not have enough sunlight.

Temperature regime

Most varieties of chrysanthemums do not tolerate frost well. Of course, there are some specimens that are not so afraid of winter (for example, the Korean variety "Dubok"). Consider what the temperature regime should be for thermophilic chrysanthemums:

for the rapid rooting of these plants, the temperature must be kept at least 15-18 degrees, and the optimal indicators for most varieties are 22-24 degrees (subject to shading from the direct sun);
the plants dug out for storage must be removed to the cellar, where the temperature should be from 0 to 4 degrees;
in cold seasons, when the outside temperature drops below 5 degrees, garden chrysanthemums need a good shelter from oak or spruce branches;
indoor plants feel great at a summer temperature of 20-25 degrees, and in autumn - in a room where it can be 15-18 degrees;
in winter, indoor chrysanthemum can "live" at temperatures from 3 to 8 degrees.

Hiding chrysanthemums

Those types of sunny flowers that remain on the street for the winter must not only be cut off, but also covered. This should also be done correctly:

Do not allow the formation of pits in the bush. Otherwise, water will stagnate there.
If the winters are not very cold, then there is no need to do serious shelter. It is enough just to cover the cut bush with peat and dry leaves. When the first snow appears, sketch it on top.
If the winter is fierce, then you should attend to the creation of a more serious shelter.

You should not wrap up the cut bush from the first cold snaps. Light frosts will only benefit him, hardening. It is recommended to cover the plant with special materials: lutrasil or spandbond. If they are not there, then a regular polyethylene dense film will do. Be sure to clamp it around the edges with stones to exclude the possibility of being blown away by the wind.

Chrysanthemum shelter for the winter

They never use shavings or peat under the shelter - so they get wet, they will keep moisture. Stagnation of fluid will provoke the death of the flora.

Top dressing in spring for lush flowering

For lush flowering in the climate of the Moscow region, plants need enhanced feeding.

Chrysanthemum most of all needs the following substances:

Nitrogen (needed for proper leaf development);
Potassium - stimulates active root growth;
Phosphorus - increases the immunity of chrysanthemums to diseases, pests and parasites. Also, phosphorus is needed in order to increase the number of buds;
Copper and zinc - for the formation of green mass.

It is known that the plant's need for certain minerals depends on the variety. If the bush is tall, you should often feed it with nitrogen fertilizers. For compact varieties of small growth, potash fertilizers are more important.

A good result is given by the introduction of humus and organic fertilizers made independently from the remnants of weeds. In the spring, it is imperative to add manure or poultry droppings. Before applying any fertilizer to the ground, it is necessary to thoroughly water and loosen the soil. This is necessary for the intensive and rapid absorption of nutrients.

To increase the duration of flowering and speed up the process of setting buds, industrial stimulants should be used. Which one to choose depends on the grower. The "Bud" remedy is very popular.

If the soil is poor in nutrients, it is unlikely that it will be possible to wait for a lush flowering.

You should think in advance about how to feed chrysanthemums in the garden for lush flowering in the spring. For this, flower growers begin to stock up on complex mineral fertilizers even in winter. Chrysanthemums should be fed responsibly to novice growers, in no case exceeding the recommended dose of fertilizer. You also need to know how to fertilize chrysanthemums - not all types of dressings are suitable.

For feeding, it is imperative to use nitrogen, phosphorus and potash fertilizers. Nitrogen accumulates in small tubers on the roots of the plant and contributes to the active collection of green mass. A good result is obtained by the industrial preparation "Kemira", its updated version - "Kemira +". To apply top dressing, the mixture must be diluted with water, strictly observing the proportions indicated on the package, the diagram and detailed recommendations. The drug "Kemira" stimulates the growth of chrysanthemums, flowering and bud setting. Flowers appear large, even, without deformations. A powerful agent is Multiflor, which guarantees long flowering and helps to bloom faster. You can also use a time-tested folk remedy - an infusion of garden weeds.

Not all fertilizers are suitable for chrysanthemum

Attention! When preparing a decoction of weeds, all seeds should be removed in advance. If this is not done, the weeds will multiply again and smother the chrysanthemum.