Planting Heycherella in open ground
Geykhera was used to create geykherella and gave it some specific features. For example, Heycherella prefers to grow on neutral or slightly alkaline soil. She also reacts very negatively to stagnant water in the roots.
In middle latitudes, before planting such a plant, the soil on the site is mixed with dolomite flour. A drainage layer 30–50 mm thick is poured into the bottom of the prepared pits. It is also recommended to pour one handful of wood ash into each hole, which will play the role of a complex mineral fertilizer. After the seedling is placed in the hole, all voids are filled with loose soil. In doing so, remember that the central kidney must always remain open. No more than 12 bushes can be grown per 1 m2 of land.
Heycherella grows well both in shade and in sunny areas. However, experienced gardeners recommend choosing a place for planting such a plant, taking into account the characteristics of a particular variety. For example, in shading, bushes with raspberry or green leaf plates grow best. But in sunny areas, varieties with a delicate color of foliage (for example, silver) feel good.
This crop will grow best in an area that is in little shade for part of the day. For example, in the lacy penumbra of tall bushes or trees.
Description of the plant and varietal diversity
Geykhera is an evergreen perennial. Its height does not exceed 60 cm. The stems of the plant are covered with medium-sized rounded leaves. At the root, these leaves form a rosette.
Heuchera blooms from early June to late August. Flowers are collected in inflorescences like panicles. The length of each panicle is about 20 cm. At the end of flowering, seed bolls remain in place of the flowers.
Cultivated varieties of Heuchera are conventionally divided into two groups:
- Decorative deciduous.
- Decorative blooming.
The first group of plants is valued for the texture of the foliage and its color variety. No other flower has such beauty. These plants also bloom, but their color is secondary, as visually it loses much to the leaves.
The second group of plants, on the other hand, is valued for the beauty of the inflorescences. As a rule, they have a color that contrasts with the color of the foliage.
Today gardeners and landscape designers can choose from 400 varieties of Heuchera, but only a few are popular. The rest, if found in landscape design, is only as an experiment.
The most popular are the following varieties of this plant:
- Heichera is blood-red. This variety can be recognized by its denser foliage and bright red bell-shaped flowers. It is so popular that breeders have bred many other hybrids based on it. Heuchera blooms blood-red from early to late summer. She is not afraid of drought, but she does not like the sun and grows best in the shade.
- American Heichera. This variety is distinguished by a variety of leaf colors. The color of the petioles, center and border is different. This can be clearly seen in the photo. In spring and autumn, the leaves acquire more intense color shades, and in summer they turn pale.
- Heuchera is cylindrical. This variety is considered one of the largest of all. It grows well both in the shade and in the sun. Its inflorescences are cylindrical and can be colored green, coral and red. The leaves of this plant are rich green.
- Heuchera is small-colored. This variety is also known as the Purple Castle. It is very popular for its purple, metallic leaves.In addition, small-flowered Heuchera perfectly tolerates cold and drought. It's easy to look after her.
Outdoor cineraria care
To avoid the adverse effects of recurrent frosts, plants can be covered with an insulating layer such as nonwoven spunbond in spring and early summer.
The seaside cineraria is highly resistant to heat and drought and grows well even with poor watering. It is quite problematic to propagate the seaside cineraria by seeds, since the fruits are very quickly affected by flower moths. This species is resistant to light frosts. However, in order not to risk it, it is better to cover the seedlings in the open field. To do this, you can use any insulation material.
In the future, caring for this plant is reduced to the simplest measures - weeding and watering. Water the plant with a small amount of water, but regularly. You should not allow stagnation of moisture in the soil so that the root system of the plant does not begin to rot.
likes bright light
It is best to feed graceful and bloody cineraria during the period of active flowering. At this time, plants need a sufficient amount of minerals. Such feeding is especially important for those specimens that grow in depleted rocky areas. It is best to fertilize such soil with infusion of mullein at the rate of 1:10. In addition, it is advisable to regularly apply ready-made mineral fertilizers that can be purchased in stores. For a plant to have healthy and strong roots, it needs a sufficient amount of potassium. Healthy bright foliage is obtained with nitrogen fertilization. And feeding with phosphorus fertilizers will provide the plant with bright and lush flowers.
In the spring, when flower buds begin to form in bloody cineraria, it needs to be fed with special fertilizers for flowering plants. This must be done in accordance with the attached instructions. Feeding should be applied 2 times a month throughout the entire flowering period. If you are using dry dressing, take about half a glass of fertilizer and sprinkle it evenly over 10 square meters. m. After that, the land is thoroughly loosened and watered.
How to transplant?
Heuchera flowers should be transplanted in the spring or if necessary - for example, when the bushes need a change of soil, or the old pot has become cramped
Here it is important to observe the planting depth, or place the bushes in such a way that they are slightly deeper than the level at which they were in the previous case.
If there are no hints of rot or other dangerous diseases on the plant, then instead of transplanting, you can resort to transshipment of bushes. They just need to be transferred to a new pot along with the old earthy clod. Such a procedure will be completely non-traumatic for the roots of the flower, it will quickly adapt to new conditions and grow.
If there is a suspicion that root rot is taking place, then the flower must be transplanted with an absolute substitution of the substrate. In this case, the roots must be carefully disassembled, carefully examined. Rotten and old roots should be cut off with a sharp pruner, and areas with cuts should be treated with special fungicidal agents, sprinkled with powdered charcoal.
Transplantation of previously diseased plants can be carried out exclusively into a fresh substrate, because pathogens may still remain in the former. After transplanting, the soil will need to be tamped with your fingertips so that air pockets do not appear. After carrying out these procedures, you can not water the flower for several days, as well as expose it to the sun.
Heuchera transplant is also necessary if you are engaged in its reproduction by division. Of course, these procedures are easier for experienced florists, but beginners can also do them, following some simple rules.
- The division of the bushes can be carried out in autumn or spring, every 3-4 years.This is how the plant rejuvenates and reproduces. Otherwise, the flower may become bald.
- Early fall or late spring is the ideal time for planting.
- The bush must be very carefully dug up, and then divided into 2-3 parts.
- Next, you need to take a knife, carefully cut the rhizomes into approximately equal parts. It is advisable to save the soil on the roots so that the seedlings can quickly take root in a new place.
- The sprouts should be planted according to the usual scheme, not forgetting about abundant watering.
The suitable size of the hole for planting the separated part is 20x30 cm. Between the transplanted bushes, a distance of at least 25 cm should be maintained.After the planting process is completed, it is necessary to water the flower, and also mulch the space around the trunks.
If soon after planting it became necessary to transplant a young plant, then this can be done not earlier than the next season. This is due to the fact that the root system of young Heucheras is rather delicate; during transplantation, there is a risk of damaging it and ruining the bush.
Plants older than two years of age tolerate transplanting well, however, special care must be taken when moving them to a new place.
Caring for doronicum in the garden
Even an inexperienced gardener can grow doronicum on his site. Flowering of such a plant is observed 2 times during one season. The first most lush bloom occurs in the spring, and the second - from the middle to the end of the summer. To preserve the decorative effect of the bushes, when the inflorescence withers, the arrow must be removed.
Proper watering
Since this plant has a superficial root system, it must be watered regularly and often. But remember that no liquid stagnation should occur in the soil, as this can cause bushes to suffer. The doronicum is watered with well-settled water, which has heated up during the day in the sun. It is necessary to loosen the soil surface around the plant very carefully so as not to injure the roots, for the same reason, the grass is removed from the site exclusively by hand. Experienced gardeners recommend covering the surface of the soil on the flower garden with a layer of mulch (wood shavings, wood chips or grass cuttings). Due to this, the moisture in the soil will remain much longer, and the growth of weeds will also slow down, and a crust will not form on the surface of the site.
Fertilizer
At the beginning of the growing season and shortly before the bushes bloom, they are fed with liquid organic or complex mineral fertilizer.
Rejuvenation of the bushes
Doronicum is rejuvenated in the last days of September or the first in October. For this, the bush is divided. Without a transplant in one area, such a culture can grow for many years, however, over time, crushing of the inflorescences-baskets is observed, and even in the middle of the bush old stems begin to die off, all this has an extremely negative effect on the decorative effect of the plant. To begin with, the bush is removed from the soil, then it is divided into several parts, which are planted in a new area in separate holes. On average, doronicum is rejuvenated once every 3 or 4 years. In order for the inflorescences of the basket to be always as large as possible, this procedure must be carried out every year. It is not necessary to cover such a flower for the winter.
Doronicum pests and diseases
On such a plant, thrips and aphids most often settle. These sucking insects suck out the plant sap from the aerial part of the bush. If pests have settled on the doronicum, then spots and stripes of yellow color are formed on its foliage, while deformation and death of inflorescences is observed. In order to get rid of harmful insects, the flowers must be sprayed with a solution of an insecticidal preparation, for example: Akarin, Karbofos, Actellic or Agravertine.
But the greatest danger for such a flower is slugs, which love to feast on its foliage.In order for these gastropods not to get to the area with doronicum, its surface must be covered with a thin layer of ground hot pepper or dry mustard powder.
This plant is susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew, rust and gray mold. As a rule, plants only get sick if they are improperly cared for or due to unfavorable weather conditions. In order to prevent fungal diseases, it is necessary to choose the correct watering regime, while avoiding both overdrying of the soil in the area and stagnation of the liquid in the root system. And you also need to remove weeds from the site in time.
If you find bushes infected with gray rot, then they should be dug up and burned as soon as possible. If the bush is affected by rust or powdery mildew, then it should be sprayed 2 to 4 times with a solution of Fundazol, Topaz, Oxychom or another agent of similar action. Remember that the most common fungal diseases affect doronicums grown in areas where fresh manure was systematically introduced into the soil.
Rogers care
Rogers is capable of growing and developing well even in the area that is in deep shade. Moreover, it will bloom profusely there with fragrant inflorescences. However, without proper and timely care, the plant may die.
How to care for the soil
The root system of such a plant is superficial, so do not forget to conduct a systematic inspection of the soil surface around it.
During the entire growing season, the soil surface is regularly and very carefully loosened, while not forgetting to remove weeds. To saturate the soil with oxygen, spud the plant
And to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture, the surface of the soil is covered with a layer of mulch. If you see that the roots are bare, then be sure to sprinkle them with a layer of soil or humus, otherwise they may dry out.
Fertilizer
The fact that organic matter and mineral fertilizers need to be applied to the soil before planting a plant was described above. Also, do not forget to feed the flower with the same fertilizers throughout the entire period of active growth and flowering. To do this, you need to choose fertilizers that contain sulfur, copper, zinc, iron, magnesium and phosphorus.
Watering
Rogersia is a moisture-loving plant, so make sure that the soil on the site does not dry out. In this case, Rogersia will delight you with lush blooms and spectacular foliage. Water the bushes regularly and abundantly, but do not let the liquid stagnate in the soil, otherwise rot may appear on the roots.
Pruning
Timely remove both wilted flower stalks and foliage that has begun to dry out. This will preserve the decorative effect of the bush. Unnecessary foliage, which has dried up or was injured, is cut off with a pruner or knife, and the flower stalks are removed only if you do not need seeds.
Transfer
If the site is suitable for growing this perennial, then it can grow in the same place for about 10 years (usually 8). A transplant ahead of time is carried out only when the bush suffers from too intense lighting or if rot appears on the root system due to stagnation of liquid in the soil.
Wintering
This thermophilic plant can withstand frosts down to minus 25 degrees. If the bush is properly prepared for winter, then it will be able to winter quite normally in the open field. In late autumn, cut off all the foliage along with the stems almost to the root, and then cover the area with a thick layer of mulch: sawdust, humus, fallen dry leaves or peat. However, if winter is expected to have little snow, then before filling the area with mulch, it must be covered with a piece of non-woven polypropylene fabric, and its density should be at least 40-60 g / m2. In springtime, the nonwoven fabric will help protect the plant from recurrent frost.Do not cover the bush with a film, as it creates a greenhouse effect, to which the flower reacts extremely negatively.
BOSONNIK ROGERSIA LIATRIS
