Diode phytolamps
They have a number of huge benefits.
Firstly, diode phytolamps very accurately transmit the spectrum of blue and red colors necessary for plants - 660 nm and 450 nm, this is very important. Secondly, the service life is simply huge - about 50,000 hours
This is about 8 years of work! The lamps do not heat up by themselves and do not heat the plants. Well, and a particularly pleasant moment - low energy consumption rates, my bills have decreased by a third after switching to diode lighting.
I use two types of diode lamps for my orchids: "bicolor" (these are lamps with red and blue diodes in a ratio of 9: 3) and "full spectrum" - a wide-range lamp.
This is how these lamps look, they are compact and fit well into the interior of the window.
When turned on, the lamps glow with a bright light, I quickly got used to it. It does not harm the eyes, that is, these are ordinary spectra, which are also in sunlight
The light is unusual, attracts attention, but the plants really like it!
I have been using these lamps for about 3 years now. And I can definitely say that they are extremely effective and beneficial. I was able to achieve flowering even from the most capricious and light-loving orchids, which bloom only in the brightest light.
Last winter I did an experiment and decided to grow seedlings under the lamps. The result is great too! In this article I show you a few photos of my most capricious and demanding orchid beauties blooming.
Orchid Iwanagara Apple Blossom
What temperature do orchids like? At what temperature should an orchid be kept?
Novice flower growers are often interested in what temperature is considered optimal for an orchid. It can be classified as one of the most capricious flowers that need anxious care. However, provided that a microclimate in the room is created that is close to natural living conditions, the flower will perfectly take root at home. One of the most important criteria for proper care is the temperature regime.
The regularity of flowering and its duration depend on the correctness of temperature fluctuations. Today, three types of orchids are known, which differ in their characteristics. For each individual species, the grower must recreate certain conditions, so you should know what air temperature is best for the orchid of different varieties.
Temperature regime
The vital activity of the flower directly depends on the correctness of the selected temperature. A plant only inside a comfortable microclimate will be able to bloom regularly and even give children. Therefore, it must be remembered that today three types of orchids can be grown at home:
- The heat-loving flowers were brought to Europe from coastal rainforests or plains. The most famous among them are the phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, and also some varieties of cutleys. Plants in this category must be kept warm. In summer, the temperature should be at least +15 and not more than +32 degrees, and in winter - from +15 to +18, while the daily difference cannot exceed three to five degrees. An exquisite home orchid at an optimal temperature will hurt less;
- Medium-temperature flowers grow in the mountainous tropical zones. These varieties include odontoglossums and miltonia. Such an orchid should be kept at lower temperatures. In summer, the plant will feel best at +18 - +22 degrees, and in winter - at +12 - +15 degrees;
- The cold-loving type grows in subtropical climates or in the highlands. This includes most laelias, papiopediliums and Australian dendrobiums.The optimal regime for them in summer is from +22 degrees and in winter from +12 degrees.
Generally speaking, we can say that the optimal temperature for an orchid of any variety is from +18 to +27 degrees during the day, and from +13 to +24 at night. If you strictly adhere to the regime and observe the necessary differences, the plant will not only bloom regularly, but also give children.
It is also important to correctly combine this principle of care with proper watering. The flower should be watered only in the morning so that the moisture has time to dry out by the evening.
Until the dairy temperature drops, no water droplets should remain on the leaf, otherwise the plant will begin to rot and it will be quite difficult to save it. It is also forbidden to leave it in drafts or in direct sunlight after watering. Orchids prefer diffused abundant sunlight.
If you follow all the rules of care, closely monitor your indoor pet, you will notice that keeping it is no more difficult than any other flower from the home garden. A wild, untouched orchid survives in almost any conditions at the air temperature of its natural habitat, so the correct regime will help the plant to take root at home.
Which phytolamps are best for orchids
When choosing phytolamps for orchids, it should be borne in mind that their spectrum should be shifted towards red and blue, as in general for all plants. To do this, you need to buy either two lamps - red and blue spectrum, or one, with combination, like phytolamps Minifarmer Bicolor or Growsvet.
Full spectrum LED lamps (full color) are perhaps best suited for orchids as they provide the most appropriate lighting. For young plants, at the same time, bicolor phytolamps are excellent, especially since they can be used in late winter - early spring and for highlighting seedlings.
If the store did not find these two types of phytolamps, then ordinary fluorescent or LED lamps can be used to illuminate orchids. But at the same time, it is advisable to choose them, again, taking into account the color range. For example, it is better to take fluorescent lamps with a chromaticity from 4200K to 6500K.
It is better not to use incandescent lamps for backlighting, since in them most of the energy goes into heat, you can overheat the plants if they are close. And their spectrum is not the best for plants.
How do I arrange the backlight?
When is it needed?
From October to March, illumination is needed for all orchids, regardless of the location of the windows. Located on the north side - almost all year round. On the east and west sides, at twilight, a little additional light is needed in spring and autumn. Weakened plants can also be illuminated additionally.
How to choose a device?
There are a large number of lamps on the market. The following are suitable for growing orchids:
- Special energy-saving lamps produced in the blue and red spectrum. Manufacturers guarantee that only 20% of the energy is converted into heat by the device, but they should not be placed close to the leaves. The minimum distance is 3 cm.
- Fluorescent lamps. With the help of gases such as mercury, they produce ultraviolet light, which becomes visible by covering the lamp with a phosphor. For orchids, devices in shades 33 and 840 are suitable.
- Metal halide lamps, also called gas discharge lamps. These devices can be of any shape, there are also special models for growing plants.
- Mercury discharge lamps work in the same way as fluorescent lamps, but are labeled differently. Choose those whose glow temperature is in the range from 3.200 to 200 K.
- Led lamps, otherwise LED lamps, are considered optimal for floriculture. In stores, you can find combined models with red and blue light with a ratio of 8/1 or 5/1 red and blue.
So what is the best lamp for illuminating orchids?
Special phytolamps that emit light in the desired intensity and wavelengths are perfect. The most popular are fluorescent and LED. These are the best options for both amateurs and experienced florists. If you are a complete beginner, you can buy an ordinary energy-saving light bulb, but you should not expect a special effect from it, so it's still better to install an inexpensive led lamp.
If you are an amateur and you have only one or two flowers, you should not spend money on a special paw, it is quite energy-saving. And to maintain a large number of exotic orchids, you will need professional lighting.
What color should the rays be?
Light with long red and short blue waves is preferred for orchids. You need to buy either one lamp that combines both of these spectra, or separate ones - red and blue. In the second case, the blue one turns on for the whole day, and the red one - at dusk.
Installation
There are several options for lighting orchids:
- For a small window sill, an office lamp with a screw mount or with a clothespin is suitable.
- For a dozen low orchids, compact fluorescent lamps located above the foliage are suitable (there is practically no photosynthesis in flowers, there is no point in lighting them). You can fix them on the underside of the shelf of the rack or the crossbar of the window.
Reference! The first and second types of lamps are best combined with reflectors - this way more light will get on the flowers. For this purpose, you can use not only special reflectors, but also an ordinary mirror. - If you have a winter garden, you will need high-quality ceiling lighting with gas-discharge lamps of at least 250 W of power.
The following is a visual video about lighting for an orchid using pendant lamps:
Duration
Orchids are accustomed to long daylight hours, on average up to 12 hours. Specific lighting standards are individual and depend on the type of orchid. The minimum time frame is 10 hours, the maximum is 16.
Influence on the plant
Correctly set lighting has a positive effect on the plant, causing the growth of green mass and enhancing flowering. In winter, artificial light will prevent the plant from falling into a dormant state, which will make it bloom more often.
Lighting for orchids at home. Correct lighting of orchids.
Adequate lighting for the phalaenopsis orchid is easy enough to provide. To find the best place, one must remember that orchids are epiphytes that grow on trees and the sun's rays hit them only through the foliage of the trees.
Most orchids require moderate light, and terrestrial orchids are generally shade tolerant.
Phalaenopsis requires a warm place with diffused light and no direct sunlight!
Lighting is a major factor in orchid care, determining whether your orchid will bloom. With a lack of light, the orchid will not have enough nutrition for the normal growing cycle, and if the light is too intense, the plant simply burns out. A sign of a lack of light in an orchid is dark green leaves (instead of light, bright green or reddish in healthy plants), a sign of its excess is yellowing of the leaves and the appearance of brown or dry spots on them.
Orchids grow with pleasure on any light windowsill. A window in the East is ideal, but the Phalaenopsis orchid will grow well in a west, southeast, or southwest window. With this arrangement, the plant can be placed both on the windowsill and next to it, but at a distance of no more than one meter from the window. If this is a south window, then it is imperative to shade the orchid from the sun's rays. On the north window, the phalaenopsis orchid must be placed only on the windowsill, but even here he feels good.
In spring and early summer, when the intensity of natural light is strongest, all orchids need shading from direct sunlight. The first symptom of a possible burn is reddening of the leaf surface. Individual parts of the leaf, and in the most severe cases, the entire leaf acquire a brown color. Orchids are especially carefully protected from burns in the spring. At this time, the leaves of plants, weaned from the sun during the winter, are very easily damaged by its rays. There are cases when the spring sun hopelessly disfigured large specimens of orchids in just half an hour.
Plants with dark leaves, such as phalaenopsis, are especially affected. Plant burns are dangerous because of their unexpectedness. It would seem that even in the morning nothing foreshadowed trouble, but the sun came out, the wind dispersed the clouds, and. beginner growers can be advised to play it safe and shade their plants at the first appearance of the spring sun.
Summer shading not only saves from sunburn, but will help lower the temperature somewhat.
To shade orchids, you can use ordinary gauze in one or two layers, a tulle curtain, or other tall light-loving plants that can block orchid leaves from direct sunlight with their leaves.
Plants shade, attention, only during the hottest time of the day (midday sun), so as not to lose much much needed light. If you have a balcony or a tree outside your window, then additional shading for orchids is no longer required
Instead of shading, you can put the orchids a little away from the window, this technique will also allow you to slightly reduce too intense illumination.
In autumn, in September, such orchids as oncidiums, Wandas, catazetums, dendrobiums can no longer shade, at this time the intensity of natural light decreases, the sun is no longer hot. In these orchid species, relative dormancy occurs - flower buds are laid, young shoots are ripening.
In addition to the light intensity for orchids, the length of the day is also important. Normal daylight hours are considered to be at least 12 hours long. With a daylight hours of 10 hours or less, additional lighting with lamps is already necessary for orchids. Thus, if the orchids are young, then it is advisable to increase the daylight hours to 16-18 hours a day.
With a lack of light and with a temperature drop of less than 16 degrees, the buds of phalaenopsis prepared for flowering may fall off.
Phalaenopsis orchid gradually tilts its stem towards the light, and therefore, so that the flower does not lose its decorative effect, does not fall out of the pot or fall from the windowsill, it is recommended to rotate the orchid 180 degrees from time to time.
It is not recommended to disturb and move the flower only if buds have begun to form on the peduncle. A week after the last bud has blossomed, the flower can be expanded or rearranged. Growing orchids is possible even under artificial lighting.
Does phalaenopsis have a dormant period
In order to answer this question, you need to understand how light affects the growth of phalaenopsis.
You already know that most orchids are tropical creatures. And the tropical climate is significantly different from ours. In the tropics, the sun shines the same throughout the year. Both in winter and in summer with one light, as they say. The difference between winter and summer there is revealed only in the amount of precipitation, but not in the lighting.
That is, the growth of the plant is never interrupted. It constantly throws out new leaves and flower stalks, its roots multiply and lengthen. This means that in nature, Phalaenopsis does not have a dormant period! It is not designed by nature to stop its growth.
Now let's take a look at our climate. Our winter and summer are clearly differentiated in terms of lighting.In winter, the sun is weak, it is often cloudy in the sky, the daylight hours are short, and the low temperature does not contribute to the active growth of plants.
Therefore, by winter, our flora throws off all the leaves and falls asleep. Many indoor plants behave this way, in winter they have a dormant period.
And in spring, when the number of sunny days increases and the intensity of illumination increases, nature wakes up. Therefore, you should not be surprised if Phalaenopsis behaves in the same way as our local flora.
If in winter you do not provide the phalaenopsis with additional lamp lighting, then he will simply have to retire. In some orchids in winter, growth may stop altogether until spring, while others develop very slowly. Thus, at home, orchids have a forced dormant period.
Step-by-step instructions: how to properly care for a flower at home
Let us consider in detail so that novice flower growers also understand how to care for the home phalinopsis orchid growing on the windowsill in a pot.
Competent choice of location
The windowsill is the best place, but remember that direct sunlight is harmful to the leaves. Choose windows facing Northeast, West, East, do not forget about shading. You can place it away from a window with artificial lighting.
For phalaenopsis, light plays a decisive role. It blooms only with a day length of at least 12 hours.
Selection of a pot for him
There are many myths about orchid pots. The most popular says that the pot must be transparent, but this is not the case.
For Phalaenopsis, the main thing is that there are drainage holes at the bottom, for air access to the root system. Phalaenopsis are sold in transparent pots for easy inspection of the roots. Even some growers grow them in opaque pots.
The pot should not be small, it is desirable that it be the same in height and width. In tall pots, sugar will accumulate on top, and the bottom will be wet
Taking into account all these conclusions, the conclusion follows: Phalaenopsis does not care whether the pot will be, transparent or ceramic. The main thing is that it fits into the cube and there are drainage holes at the bottom, at least one
Priming
Regular soil for phalaenopsis is not suitable. The roots need air to work properly, so it is planted in a special substrate.
The correct substrate meets two criteria:
- Moisture capacity - takes and retains moisture around the roots, and does not dry out in a day.
- Air permeability - it should not be compacted. Well-cooked pine bark, at least 15 hours, 2-3 centimeters in size, this is the best option. you can also buy ready-made substrate in specialty stores.
Lighting
Lighting should be diffused to avoid burns. The length of daylight hours depends on the time of year, in winter it should be 12-14 hours, while in summer, on the contrary, avoid excess light.
In autumn, during the flowering period, it is better to supplement the flower, otherwise the buds will dry out due to lack of light.
We suggest watching a video about the effect of lighting on orchids:
Humidity
Air humidity is not at all important for phalaenopsis. In their natural environment, they receive the necessary moisture every day with the help of rain, dew, etc., but gardeners have found a way out of this situation - the correct substrate is moisture-absorbing and breathable. The substrate will retain the necessary moisture around the roots. The main thing is correct watering. You do not need to spray the plants every day, increase the humidity with the help of basins and wet towels.
Temperature
Phalaenopsis grow in the tropics, so they endure our heat perfectly, and in the cold season it is important for them that the temperature does not drop below 15 degrees. They need a period of cold keeping, but in the spring the heating is turned off in the apartments, and in the fall it does not turn on yet and the temperature itself decreases
Watering
Watering frequency depends on the season and air temperature.Phalaenopsis needs a constantly slightly moist substrate. The substrate should be slightly damp and not wet or dry.
Phalaenopsis does not tolerate drought. Overdrying leads to death.
Water for irrigation should be soft, the softer the better. It is enough to settle the water for two or three days.
It is necessary to water it first with a strait, then soaking. The entire surface of the substrate is poured with 2 - 3 liters of water, then the flower is soaked. For what period you decide for yourself to soak, it all depends on the substrate, it must keep moisture for at least a week.
If the substrate does not hold moisture, soak for longer, for example 1-2 hours.
We offer you to watch a video on how to properly water the phalaenopsis orchid:
Fertilizers
Phalaenopsis can only be fed during the growth period. In winter, during the dormant period, as well as only transplanted and diseased plants, it is impossible to fertilize. It is worth fertilizing between April and September inclusive, when the plant is actively growing. Special fertilizers are sold in flower shops; fertilize must be strictly following the instructions, diluting with irrigation water. It is necessary to feed by alternating regular watering and watering with fertilizer, in order to avoid salting.
Inspecting the plant for problems
With proper care, it will not hurt. Inspect the flower and substrate periodically. The substrate should be free of white bloom (salting), mold and bugs. Watch out for roots and leaves. The roots are not withered or rotten, the leaves are juicy, strong and green.
How to choose a device
The modern market for lighting systems is represented by a huge number of devices with a wide variety of technical characteristics. To organize the illumination of orchids, the most often chosen are:
- Energy saving lamps (CFL). They are produced with 2 types of spectrum (red and blue), characterized by a long service life, low power consumption and high safety. Short circuit protection provided. The minimum distance from a plant leaf is 3-5 cm.
- Fluorescent lamps. Their device implies the presence of mercury, which, when heated, forms a gas that passes through the phosphor and converts into ultraviolet light. To illuminate orchids, devices marked LDC, LD and LB, as well as shades 33, 840 and 865, are used.
- Halogen lamps. They are characterized by a large range of different sizes and shapes. Their light flux is of higher quality than that of analogs with a filament, and the color spectrum is wider. To highlight plants, you need to purchase specialized models.
- Mercury discharge lamps. They work on the same principle as fluorescent ones. They are subdivided into sodium RLVD and RLND. The required illumination temperature for orchids is 3200-4200 kW.
- LED dumps. One of the most popular among florists. Economical, safe, environmentally friendly, resistant to damage and sudden temperature changes with a long service life. Most often, models are used with a combined red and blue spectrum and diffused type of lighting.
- Phytolamps. These devices not only emit radiation of the desired color, but also generate waves of a given length and intensity.
What color should the rays be
The color of the waves emitted by the devices should lie in the blue and red spectrum. The lamp can combine both colors, or you need to purchase 2 devices. In this case, blue light will work throughout the day (10-12 hours), and red, only at dusk.
Installation
There are several ways to mount orchid lighting. In a compact window sill, you can choose an inexpensive office version with a screw or clothespin. When breeding undersized species in the amount of 1-1.5 dozen, it is worth taking a closer look at the fluorescent lamps, which will be located above the green mass - the main place of photosynthesis.
For a mini-garden of exotic flowers, lamps with reflectors, special reflectors, or even a simple mirror, fixed in the right way, are suitable.
How long should artificial lighting work
The operation of the illumination for orchids in a constant mode can lead to negative consequences in the form of burns of plant tissues and overheating. Lighting rates, including temporary ones, depend on the variety and range from 10 to 14 hours.
Influence on the plant
Competently organized lighting, especially in the cold season, has a positive effect on the growth and development of culture:
- stimulates the growth of foliage;
- enhances flowering processes;
- prevents plants from falling into hibernation.
The main thing is to comply with the norms and not to increase the duration of artificial daylight on your own.
Lighting for orchids at home in the summer. Watering
The need for life-giving moisture is different for all orchids. Some can stay in completely dry ground for several days without problems. For example, Cattleya and Dendrobium just need to "dry out" from one watering to another. And the phalaenopsis in the pot should always be slightly damp. But just "a little bit", since the stagnation of moisture for its root system is destructive.
Nearly all orchids tend to prefer a dry environment rather than a damp environment. In a critical case, they will calmly survive a week or two without watering. If they are "drowned" in water for the same two weeks, the plants will not survive this.
In summer, for orchids, the most optimal watering regime will be 1 time in 3-4 days. In winter, the intervals between watering can be increased to 7-10 days.
Orchids are watered differently from all other houseplants. If you just pour water into the pot from above, the flower will not receive the amount of moisture it needs. It is better if the lower part of the substrate in the pot is moistened - the orchid itself will draw out as much liquid from it as it needs. Pour some room temperature water into the basin (be sure to settle or filtered) - so that the depth is only 1-2 cm. Put the pot with the orchid there. Through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, water is absorbed into the substrate. Keep the pot with the plant in water for no more than 10 minutes - this time is quite enough for optimal moisture of the substrate. The excess water will flow out of its own accord into the saucer or tray on which you usually have a flower pot.
The phase of active growth, the formation of buds and the flowering itself are the reason to water the orchids more intensively. When a plant has a dormant period, its need for watering is reduced.