Why do the leaves of indoor flowers turn yellow

What kind of lighting is required

Green pets react differently to light. Some like the bright sun, others prefer a lot of light without direct sunlight, the third is suitable for shade or partial shade. Determine the correct place in the house for the new tenant.

On a warm, southern window, place aloe, cacti, succulents, jasmine, and some palm trees. Representatives of deserts and tropics are very photophilous. They are not afraid of direct sunlight. But even these heat lovers after winter must be accustomed to the sun gradually, an adaptation period is needed. At first, it is better to shade them from the bright sun.

Most flowering varieties need good lighting, but suffer from direct sun - violets, anthurium, azalea, begonia, cyclamen and others. When exposed to bright sunlight, burn marks in the form of yellow spots remain on the foliage. Due to the lack of light in autumn and winter, the lower parts of the flowers, especially from the shady side, turn yellow and fall off. Move them closer to the light or arrange additional lighting. It is effective to use phytolamps.

Their other brothers feel good in the shade or partial shade from spring to autumn, in winter they love diffused light, moderate temperature. Ferns, ficuses, curly trees, vines love shaded corners and dim lighting. Shade-loving varieties must be protected from the sun, it can damage them.

Why do the leaves turn yellow on flowers

In case of illness or improper care, our pets react primarily by the fact that the edges or the entire leaf plate turn yellow. Let's consider the main reasons for the occurrence of such phenomena.

Even a novice florist understands that yellowing of foliage is an alarming sign.

Improper home care

Excessive watering of the plant

Moderate watering will be sufficient for most flowers. Before purchasing a particular copy, first of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the conditions of its maintenance and the rules of care.

Excessive moisture leads to waterlogging of the soil and rotting of the root system. As a result, leaves and shoots turn yellow, the plant may die if measures are not taken in time for treatment.

Insufficient watering

Often, an overdried earthen lump becomes the reason for the yellowing of the leaves of indoor flora. In this case, the plant does not receive enough nutrients and moisture. The tips of the leaves and branches begin to dry and fall off, the roots die off.

Drafts

Almost all indoor flowers, especially tropical ones, do not tolerate drafts. They should be kept away from any source of flower draft - open windows, air conditioners, fans, etc.

Our favorite split systems can damage the immunity of flowers.

Failure to comply with the feeding regime

With a lack or excess of nutrients in the soil, the leaves of plants begin to turn yellow along the central vein, mainly at the top of the flower.

1. Fungal diseases. As a result of infection with late blight or anthracnose, leaf blades may turn yellow.
2. Infectious diseases. In this case, yellow spots appear on the foliage.
3. Damage by pests. Among such insects are thrips, spider mites, aphids, whiteflies. The spider mite sucks the juices from the leaves and shoots, as a result of which they turn yellow and subsequently fall off.

Infectious diseases

This reason is the most dangerous and most difficult to eliminate. Sometimes you even have to get rid of the plant in order to avoid spreading the disease to other indoor flowers. If the disease is detected at the very beginning, you will have to turn to the help of special chemicals to suppress the infection.

In a diseased plant, the leaves turn yellow unevenly. Mosaic, individual dots, spots, stains can appear on them. Often the leaf loses its natural shape, shrinks, curls. Sometimes at the same time flowers fall or discolor.

Cleanliness and basic preventive measures will help prevent the occurrence of diseases.Avoid crowding in the arrangement of indoor plants, wipe and spray the foliage more often, fight dust and dirt on the windowsills

When purchasing new plants or their cuttings, pay attention that they have a healthy appearance.

Reason 3. Diseases and pests of lilies

Lily leaf color can change if the plant is attacked by fungi, bacteria or insects.

Bacterial rot

This is the most common garden lily disease, which causes the leaves to turn yellow and die off, but brown spots appear first. Most often, rot occurs due to damage to the bulb and waterlogging of the soil.

To prevent this ailment, before planting, the bulbs are etched in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and during the emergence of seedlings, the plants are treated with fungicides. If the disease makes itself felt during flowering, all damaged flowers and leaves are immediately removed and destroyed.

Rust

If you notice that yellow, orange or brown spots have appeared on the leaves of the lily, take a closer look for red fungal spores on them (they are similar in shape to pads). These spots appear bulging if the plant is sick with rust.

In this case, all affected parts of the garden line are removed, and the entire plant is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid. Re-planting lilies in the area where the bulbous bulbs affected by rust grew can be no earlier than 3 years later.

Plant rust - signs of disease and how to deal with it
Why do plants rust, and is it possible to protect them from this scourge.

Pythium, or blue mold

This disease causes rotting of the roots of the bulb. They become covered with brown spots, while the tops of the leaves turn yellow, the stem of the lily dries and withers.

All affected parts of the plant are immediately removed. Before planting a lily, the soil is disinfected with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, and the bulbs are soaked for half an hour in a solution of the Maxim drug.

Fusarium

This disease kills the bulb itself (at first it turns brown, and then falls apart), so it is almost impossible to save the plant. In addition, at the initial stage, the disease is noticeable only on the bulb, which is located underground. After some time, the shoots of the plant turn yellow. And in conditions of warmth and high humidity, the yellow leaves of the lily begin to dry out.

To prevent illness, before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in a solution of the Maxim drug and the soil must be etched.

Gray rot, or botrytis

Dark yellow spots appear on the leaves of lilies affected by this fungus. Watery spots can also be seen on flowers. It is unlikely that it will be possible to completely cure the plant, since in the heat and with high humidity, the fungus becomes active again.

It is necessary to cut and destroy all damaged leaves and stems, and in September dig up the bulbs, treat with the fungicide Maxim and transplant to a new place. In spring, for preventive purposes, plants should be watered with Fitosporin-M solution and this procedure should be repeated every time wet weather sets in the street.

Gray rot - signs of the disease and how to deal with it
How to protect plants from gray rot?

Nematodes

If the bulb is damaged by nematodes, the lily leaves become more rounded, change their color to yellow-brown and eventually fall off. These dangerous pests live between the bulbous scales, but under favorable conditions they go into the ground.

Regular dressing of the soil, disinfection of bulbs in hot water (50-52 ° C) for 10 minutes, timely removal of weeds and preventive spraying with insecticides will help save lilies from the invasion of nematodes.

To combat nematodes, you can use drugs such as Metarizin, Nematofagin, Basamil.

So that you do not have to save your favorite plants, take care of them correctly and once a month during the growing season, feed the lilies with a special fertilizer for bulbous plants.

The main causes of yellow foliage

In this article, we will talk about all the causes of foliage discoloration and how to deal with this phenomenon. We will touch upon both the problem of yellowness on foliage in general for all indoor plants, and for some specific species, revealing the elimination of the problem in more detail.

Aging flower

This is the most common reason the leaves of a houseplant start to turn yellow. It won't be difficult to fix the problem - you just need to delete the old branches. The transplant will also help the plant. There is no need to introduce cardinal changes in the care regimen - do everything in the same way as before.

However, transplanting a flower into a new spacious pot, in which there is enough nutritious substrate, is still worth

The material from which the flowerpot is made should be given special attention. If before that you planted your plants in plastic, now for a while the flower should be rooted in a ceramic pot

The ceramic flowerpot is characterized by porous walls through which the root system of the plant can receive air. Also, the flower should be fed by adding organic fertilizers to the soil. In this way, the aging problem of the home flower can be effectively solved.

Insufficient moisture

Lack of moisture, as a rule, manifests itself in the form of active wilting of the tips of the foliage. Quite often, yellowness on the leaves indicates that there is not enough moisture in the substrate. It often happens that the top layer of the soil looks rather wet, but this impression can be deceiving.

If you give the plant an insufficient amount of water, it may be completely absorbed by the soil, and in this situation almost nothing will reach the root system of the flower.

If moisture-loving plants grow in your apartment, do not limit yourself to regular watering. Spraying should also be added to it. You can use one more tip - put a container filled with water near the flowerpots with plants. This will lead to humidification of the air around the tank and create a microclimate favorable for the plant.

Lack of lighting

Another commonplace reason for the appearance of yellowness on your favorite flowers. The reason here again lies in the fact that the grower did not create the most favorable conditions for his plants. Photosynthesis is extremely important for plants, so there should be enough light in the room.

In some cases, you can solve the problem by moving the flowerpot with the plant to a brighter place. However, this may not be possible, and in this case it is worth thinking about purchasing additional lighting. But before you start taking any action, it is worth considering the peculiarities of the type of your plant, since not all house flowers require bright lighting.

Incorrect fertilization

The cause of the problem may be either a lack or an overabundance of any trace elements. You can understand what exactly is missing or, on the contrary, too much, by the condition of the plant and some characteristic features:

• If, upon careful examination of the plant, it turned out that yellow spots have formed between the veins of the flower, which increase in size over time, this means that your flower does not have enough magnesium;
• If, when yellow spots appear, the foliage also loses its firmness and elasticity - most likely, the flower lacks copper;
• If the foliage of the flower becomes yellowish-gray, this means that the plant needs more manganese;
• The curling of the leaves together with the appearance of yellow spots between the veins indicates a lack of molybdenum;
• Active tarnishing of the leaf plate indicates a lack of nitrogen;
• If yellowness appears only at the tip of the leaf, not spreading to the entire plate, it is an insufficient amount of calcium.

Dry air

Most often, this problem is encountered in winter, when the air is not only very dry, but also too hot due to the operating heating.Indoor plants are often located close to batteries. Such a microclimate cannot be called favorable for the growth and development of a home flower.

5 Yucca

The natural aging and yellowing of this crop usually displays well on the lower leaves, while the upper leaves form a palm-shaped crown. Other factors affecting discoloration:

• Rare watering in summer, especially if drying has reached the root system.
• Excessive waterlogging, especially pronounced in the cold season. Following the development of rot on the roots, the foliage loses its original saturation and acquires a yellow color.
• Dry air during the heating season. The plant must be regularly sprayed and a container of water should be placed next to the pot.
• Damage with thrips or spider mites.
• Lack of lighting. Especially dangerous when kept in high temperature conditions.

Dracaena dies: how to save from the disease

Why do ficus leaves fall - reasons

If all conditions of detention are observed, then the development of diseases and foliage can be avoided. The plant will have strong immunity, and it will be able to overcome the disease. In addition, it is recommended from time to time to apply fertilizers that contain phosphorus and potassium to the soil.

However, it is not always possible to protect the flower from infection. Symptoms of the disease are most often manifested on the foliage. First of all, the color of the leaf blade changes, turgor is lost, spots appear, the tips dry out, and then their base.

Dracaena has a lot of diseases

Diseases that most often affect dracaena:

• heterosporosis. The foliage on both sides begins to turn yellow, after which it becomes stained and dries. Without treatment, the flower dies. To help the plant, you need to react in time. Fungicides, which contain copper, can help;
• phyllostictosis. Irregular brown spots with a green or yellow border appear on the foliage of the lower tier. They are quite large in size. Leaves may fall off;
• bacteriosis. The foliage at the tips rots, so the plant discards it en masse. Ulcers can be seen on the stem. High humidity and high temperature in the room are the main factors in the development of the disease. The treatment is useless, so the flower will have to be destroyed in order to save the rest of the plants in the house;
• alternaria. Fungal disease, signs of which are brown spots. Over time, without treatment, they begin to turn black. Spray with fungicides three times a month. This will help fight and prevent illness.

Why does dracaena massively shed its leaves when it gets sick? This is a natural response to pathogens. This is how the plant tries to protect the rest of the organs.

For your information! Fungicidal preparations such as quadris, topaz, maxim will help to overcome the disease.

6 Geranium

Pelargonium, which is commonly called geranium, is one of the most popular indoor plants due to its unpretentiousness. Geraniums love light, but adapt well to partial shade content. They do not require abundant fertilizing and spraying. Such a reputation leads to the opinion that the flower does not need constant attention and special care, as a result it dies.

Due to unfavorable conditions in geranium, the edges of the leaves turn yellow and dry

If the tips of the leaves dry on the geranium, and a dry border appears at the edges, there may be several reasons:

1. 1. Lack of a dormant period. One of the features of geranium is that it needs a cool wintering at a temperature of 13-15 ° C. The plant will feel good without it, but the flowering rate decreases, and defects appear on the leaves.
2. 2. Improper watering. Geraniums do not like over-watering and suffer from stagnant water in the soil. Therefore, the soil should be rather loose, and a drainage layer is required at the bottom.
3. 3. High humidity.Pelargoniums are adapted to dry air, they retain moisture in the leaves from evaporation thanks to the villi. Frequent spraying and proximity to moisture-loving plants lead to the death of the tips of the leaves.
4. 4. Cramped pot. If the flower is not regularly transplanted, there is not enough space for the development of the root system, the aerial part of the plant does not receive sufficient nutrition. Then the tips and edges of the leaves turn yellow and deform.

Leaf tips dry out due to lack of light or direct sunlight

The tips also begin to brown due to the wrong location. This problem is caused by both a lack of light and strong exposure to direct sunlight.

To identify the cause of the darkening, it is worth analyzing whether the flower is burned by direct sunlight. This effect is the reason for the appearance of brown spots and ends.

Note! This often happens after spraying on a sunny day. Leaves can also turn yellow due to lack of light.

In this case, the color loses color unevenly, which is often accompanied by the loss of leaves.

Leaves can also turn yellow due to lack of light. In this case, the color loses color unevenly, which is often accompanied by the loss of leaves.

To prevent this, you need:

• find out which side the flower prefers to grow: from the north, south, etc.;
• when it is not possible to put the plant on a lighted window, it is worth using a phyto or fluorescent lamp;
• if the ends darken only on one side, then sometimes it is necessary to turn the pot over so that the plant receives light evenly;
• the plant can be protected from direct exposure to sunlight with blinds or cardboard, which should be placed in the daytime.

Lack of light as a cause of leaf dryness

Regardless of why the leaves of anthurium, spathiphyllum, spatsiphyllum, chlorophytum and other plants begin to turn yellow, it is required:

• replace the topsoil with fresh soil;
• clean leaves from dust;
• change the humidity of the air;
• revise the rules of care.

In order for the plant to delight with fresh and green foliage, basic care requirements must be observed. When identifying the problem of yellowing of the leaves, it is necessary to first determine the cause, and then act immediately so as not to finally ditch the home specimen.

Yellowing of roses with a lack of nutrients in the soil

The beginning of yellowing or foliage falling can be explained by the lack of useful elements in the soil. The most important substances that affect the development of culture include the following:

Iron

A deficiency of this substance provokes the development of chlorosis. With this disease, the foliage becomes yellow, shrinks and curls.

To cope with the problem, it is worth using tools such as Ferrilene, Ferovit. The ampoule of the composition must be mixed with water and sprayed with plants.

Nitrogen

This remedy is responsible for the condition of the green mass. The deficiency of the element provokes the blanching of the foliage and its gradual yellowing.

A special need for the element of roses is experienced in spring. In this case, you need to add ammonium nitrate. It is also permissible to use a combined composition.

For reference! It should be borne in mind that an excess of nitrogen can cause fungal pathologies, which negatively affects the condition of the bushes.

Potassium

With a lack of this element, the leaves of the plant dry out. In this case, the veins remain green. After a certain time, the leaf plates turn completely yellow and turn red-violet.

The rose should be fed with potassium magnesium. A large amount of potassium provokes developmental delays.

Manganese

The affected foliage acquires a yellow tint between the veins - from the edges to the central part. A green border appears around the veins. In this case, only old leaves turn yellow. The rose needs to be fertilized with manganese sulfate and deoxidized the soil.You can add peat to it. Ammonium sulfate is also suitable.

Magnesium

If there is not enough of this substance, dark red spots appear between the veins. The edges of the leaves remain green. At the same time, their fall is observed.

To avoid such problems, you need to regularly add ash to the soil. Magnesium sulfate is also suitable. At the same time, an increased content of the substance provokes a violation of the assimilation of potassium.

Insufficient fertilization provokes the appearance of a yellow border on the foliage

Leaves turn yellow: what are the reasons for what to do?

The type of this plant is not whimsical and does not require special personal care. It is enough to give it 5-10 minutes a week and the dracaena will fully develop and delight you. But quite often the leaves of this plant begin to turn yellow. In order to know how to help a flower, you need to determine the reasons for this phenomenon:

• the age of life of each leaf;
• inappropriate room temperature;
• improper watering of the plant;
• lack of moisture, drought;
• direct sunlight on the flower;
• lack of fertilizer and dressing;
• improper location of the plant;
• a tight or too wide pot;
• numerous diseases or insect pests.

To eliminate yellowing of the leaves, you need to familiarize yourself with each of the reasons in more detail.

Life span

The lifespan of each leaf in dracaena is from 1 to 2 years. After that, they begin to gradually turn yellow, dry and eventually fall off. As a rule, this starts with the lower leaves, since they are considered the most mature. And the time of their lives comes to an end, before the rest. The lower leaves die off for this reason, usually very slowly.

Improper watering

The reason for the yellowing of the leaves of the plant can be improper or untimely watering. Dracaena can die with an excess of moisture in the pot, but over-moisture also adversely affects the plant. At the correct air temperature, the flower should be watered 1-2 times a week. The number of watering times depends on the location of the flower.

Watering the plant should be done with settled water, at room temperature.

Non-compliance with temperature and humidity standards

The most suitable temperature for a given plant is between 10 and 20 degrees. If there is a lack of moisture, it is necessary to periodically spray the leaves of the plant.

Dracaena should be sprayed no more than once a week, otherwise the flower will wither from waterlogging.

Lack of feeding

Dracaena, like any plant, must be fed with various fertilizers. They will help the flower not only develop fully, but also prevent the appearance of various diseases and pests. For this type of plant, the most suitable top dressing is phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They make the root system of the flower more resistant to diseases and pests.

You need to feed the plant regularly, from the very beginning, and not from the moment when the leaves begin to turn yellow.

Direct sunlight

Dracaena does not like direct sunlight on its leaves. It is very easy to understand that a flower turns yellow precisely because of strong sunlight. The upper leaves of the plant, which are exposed to the sun, fade and begin to fade.

As a rule, when the leaves are overheated, they dry out. This mainly happens in the summer, as at other times of the year, the sun is more gentle. To prevent further drying of the plant, it is necessary to move it to another, darker place.

The location of the flower in a draft

If the plant is located on a windowsill, it is necessary to monitor its condition, since in this place the temperature may be below normal.

You can recognize that a draft has become the cause of yellowed leaves by looking at the topmost leaves of the dracaena. If their tips turn yellow, and everything is in order with the rest, then this is the reason.Also, you do not need to put the plant close to the glass, so as not to freeze it.

It is not recommended to open the window in cold seasons, as a cold draft can lead the plant to death.

Cramped pot

For the full development of dracaena and prevent yellowing of the leaves, you need to choose a suitable pot:

• It should be spacious and deep.
• In a small pot, the plant will be cramped. Its root system will not be able to fully develop, and this will lead to adverse events.
• But an overly large pot also cannot be used for planting dracaena, since the roots must intertwine with each other, otherwise the flower will stop growing.

Diseases and pests

If, with proper care, the leaves of the plant continue to turn yellow, the cause is flower disease or pests. Dracaena can be affected by various parasites:

• spider mite;
• scabbards;
• thrips many others.

As well as numerous diseases:

• fungal;
• bacterial;
• viral.

To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to use special preparations with which the ground part is processed. For every disease, a special drug with different properties.

If traces of pests are found, before treatment with the drug, it is necessary to manually rid the leaves of insects.

Care features

Caring for epiphytes in northern latitudes is not so easy. Anthurium is picky about literally everything that surrounds it. The slightest deviation from the desired conditions - and the flower is rapidly dying out.

Lighting

Anthurium "loves" diffused light or partial shade. Direct sunlight can burn the delicate leaves of the flower. It is recommended to determine the permanent location of the anthurium on the east or northwest side. In cases where the active sun still penetrates the flower, the window can be shaded with a tulle curtain.

Temperature regimes

Like most tropical plants, anthurium prefers slightly higher temperature conditions, however, too dry and hot air can lead to the death of the plant. The temperature during the period of active life should not exceed +280 C and drop to +170 C. With the arrival of the first cold weather, the plant "falls asleep". Winter temperature is +15 .. + 160 C. At the end of winter, the temperature is gradually increased so that the plant has the opportunity to form buds.

Watering

Anthurium is very hygrophilous. As soon as the topsoil dries up, water it again. However, the water should not stay in the pot for long. After abundant watering, the remaining water that has dropped into the sump should be removed. Water for irrigation should be used soft and free of chlorine. Frequent stagnation of moisture will lead to decay of the root system and the gradual death of the flower. By the winter period, watering is significantly reduced.

Air humidity

High humidity of the ambient air of 85-95% is optimal for the content of anthurium. It is recommended to cover flower shoots with wet moss or other hygroscopic materials, which must be constantly sprayed with water. Such care will be grateful to the roots of the plant, which will enter the phase of active growth, which cannot be achieved in room conditions with dry air masses.

An ideal humidifier for anthurium will be a room humidifier or the "Fog" system. Caring flower growers regularly wash off the accumulating dust from the leathery leaves of the plant with a sponge soaked in warm water, which suppresses decorativeness. During flowering periods, water should not be allowed to enter the inflorescences, which may cause brown spots on the stipules.

Top dressing

Mineral complex fertilizers are applied in the spring-summer period every 2-3 weeks. The most important thing is not to overdo it when fertilizing. Organic mixtures will provide a good effect. Leaf humus, cow dung or chicken manure infusion can be added to the top layer of soil in a pot.

This must be done with great care so as not to harm the plant with large portions of toxins.

Priming

To grow anthurium in room conditions, the pots are filled with a loose, coarse-fibrous, well-ventilated substrate with a weak acid reaction. By adding large fragments of silicon or peat chips to the substrate, you can make a good soil that will dry out and ventilate easily. Silicon will not allow the earth to be compressed and sour. A reliable drainage from dry cuttings and a thick layer of sand or expanded clay should be laid at the bottom of the pot.

The necessary substrate for transplanting anthurium is bought in flower shops, however, you can make it yourself. This will require peat chips, chopped moss and turf in a 2: 2: 1 ratio, or from deciduous soil, peat chips, sand, charcoal and coniferous bark in equal proportions.

It is recommended to add a little bone meal to the substrate. These substrates provide good aeration while maintaining adequate moisture holding capacity and retaining nutrients.

Transfer

In a new pot, the plant must be planted a little deeper than before transplanting. Thus, new roots are buried. Young plants are replanted annually to provide somewhat larger pots. After transplanting, long shoots can be tied to supports.

Anthuriums prefer plastic pots as they take on ambient temperatures, and in ceramic pots, the plant can cool significantly.

Reason number 6. Lack of light or direct sunlight

Improper placement can also cause blackening of the leaf tips. Moreover, both too bright light (direct sunlight) and a lack of lighting lead to a similar result.

Trying to understand why the leaves of flowers dry, it does not hurt to analyze if the plant is burned by direct sunlight. This provokes the appearance of not only brown ends, but also whole spots. This phenomenon occurs especially often after spraying on a sunny day.

Yellowing due to lack of light looks different. It is manifested by an uneven loss of color and may be accompanied by shedding of leaves (most often this is how hibiscus behaves).

• Find out on which window (north, east, southwest, etc.) the flower prefers to grow, and try to find a suitable place for it.
• If it is not possible to put the pot on a light window, get an additional lamp. It can be a special phytolamp or an ordinary fluorescent lamp.
• If the tips of the leaves turn yellow on only one side of the flower, try turning the pot from time to time to ensure that all the shoots are getting enough light.
• Protect the plant from bright sunlight with blinds or ordinary cardboard (its size should correspond to the height of the flower), which should be placed between the window and the pots during the day.

Why do leaf plates turn yellow?

Due to the contrasting color of the leaves of the flower, which is striped with alternating light green and dark green stripes, yellowed and dry areas often remain invisible for a long time. Meanwhile, such a phenomenon indicates that something is wrong with the plant.

Only the tips dry

Trying to adapt to unfavorable conditions, the green pet "dries" the tips of the leaves to reduce evaporation and retain precious moisture.

Another common reason is incorrect fertilization and, as a result, oversaturation or lack of essential micronutrients.

The powerful root system of chlorophytum depletes the soil very quickly, requiring additional feeding, which leads to the phenomenon of dried leaf tips.

Around the edges

The leaves drying out along the edges indicate a sunburn.Although chlorophytum needs adequate lighting, it is not recommended to place it in direct sunlight.

Long standing on a hot windowsill will cause the leaves to dry and turn yellow at the edges. If you do not change the location of the plant, the flower will simply die.

If the influence of direct sunlight is excluded, then the reason for the yellowed edges of the chlorophytum leaves is the end of the life cycle of this part of the flower.

From below

Lack of watering or its excessive abundance, lack of lighting are detrimental to the plant

Another reason is the crampedness of the pot in which it is planted - the root system has become cramped in such a container and fresh soil is needed to continue the growing season.

Interesting! According to popular belief, the one who starts chlorophytum in the house will return the lost family happiness. Unmarried girls or single boys will soon find their happiness.

The tips turn black

If you notice dark brown triangles at the tips of chlorophytum leaves, the heating devices may be working too hard. The plant uses moisture not only through the root system, but also through the leaves.

Closed, unventilated rooms exacerbate the problem by transforming ornate leaflets into mourning ribbons. When purchasing a plant in a store, some housewives notice dark leaf tips on their new flowers.

This may be the result of mechanical damage due to inaccurate transportation of the plant. Over-treatment with insecticides against pests has a similar effect.

Why does it turn yellow?

Pests are a common cause of yellowing and even death of chlorophytum. Although the plant is quite unpretentious, it can be settled by:

• thrips;
• mealybug;
• shield;
• spider mite.

The activity of pests is manifested in the form:

1. brownish-yellow growths on the leaves (scale);
2. cracks (thrips);
3. plaque in the form of a microscopic cobweb (spider mite);
4. white bloom (mealybug).

The flower does not grow

Chlorophytum slows down its growth due to improper care. To figure out what exactly the flower does not like, it is recommended to check:

• correct watering;
• lighting intensity;
• the volume of the flower pot;
• soil composition;
• the presence of parasites.

Any of these factors can cause stunted growth or lack thereof.