When and how spathiphyllum blooms
Like any other tropical plant, spathiphyllum does not shed its leaves all year round. However, it was not the greenery that gave the flower such popularity. To a greater extent, "female happiness" is liked by people because of its flowering.
Blooming spathiphyllum
Types and forms of flowers
The color of the leaves and the shape of the buds depend on the variety of spathiphyllum. At the moment, botanists have bred more than 40 plant species, but few of them can be used to decorate an apartment.
- Abundantly flowering. A flower with light green leaves that can grow up to 20 cm in length. Peduncles rise 20 cm above the foliage. The white perianth is small, reaching up to 8 cm in length and no more than 3 in width.
- Pleasant. The oblong leaves are elliptical and can grow up to 30 cm in length. The bract is light green. Can be up to 20 cm in length.
- Cannoli. The leaves are dense and narrow, up to 40 cm long. The cover of the bract has a 2-color color: white on the front side, light green on the back. The bed can be up to 22 cm in length.
- Spoon-shaped. The width of the leaf of the spoon-shaped spathiphyllum is up to 15 cm with a length of 30-40 cm. The cover is concave, which resembles a spoon. At the beginning of flowering, it is white, but when it begins to fade, it turns green.
Wallis' spathiphyllum is prized for its unpretentiousness
- Wallis. The most unpretentious type of plant, and therefore the most popular among domestic housewives. Spathiphyllum is small in size: leaves up to 24 cm in length, white inflorescence - 5 cm. The cover tends to turn green.
- Mauna Loa. The inflorescence is white, wide, elliptical, concave and creamy. The leaves are short - up to 5 cm in length. The flowers can be cut and remain fresh for about a month.
- Picasso. Outwardly, the most remarkable variety of spathiphyllum is Picasso. Whole sections of its green leaves are white. The perianth and ear are also bicolored.
Picasso is perhaps the most remarkable variety
Flowering duration
Spathiphyllum is a perennial plant, and therefore flowering occurs for the first time after full development. Only in the second year of life does a young flower bloom for the first time. This time may vary depending on the environment and conditions for caring for the plant.
Budding in spathiphyllum can occur annually, but in some cases it refuses to bloom.
Favorable conditions force the spathiphyllum to begin flowering in March. It often lasts until autumn, but it can begin to bloom again towards the end of summer.
Attention! With proper care of the flower, repeated flowering is possible.
Reasons for delayed flowering
Often, you can hear complaints from the hostesses of the spathiphyllum that the spathiphyllum looks unhealthy, its leaves turn yellow or turn black, and, of course, the flower "female happiness" does not bloom. It is not difficult to guess what to do in this case: the conditions of keeping the plant should be corrected.
Choose the right place. All types of spathiphyllum prefer partial shade, so you should not place the flower on the southern and southeastern windowsills - this will lead to rapid drying of the soil and burns of the leaves. However, the complete absence of light also does not contribute to harmonious development - the "white sail" can stop blooming and simply wither away. It is best to place the plant on western windowsills or at some distance from the window. In winter, additional lighting with a phytolamp may be required.
Increase humidity.Since spathiphyllum is a native of the tropics, it needs high humidity - at least 50-60%. The leaves of the plant are regularly sprayed (so that water does not get on the flowers and buds), and in extreme heat, place a pallet next to it, filled with wet pebbles or expanded clay. When the room temperature drops to +15 ° C, spraying is stopped so as not to provoke hypothermia and decay. To remove dust from plant leaves, periodically wipe them with a soft, damp cloth. Keep the flower away from the radiator during the heating season.
Adjust watering. During the period of active growth (from March to September), spathiphyllum must be abundantly moistened with standing water at room temperature. However, keep in mind that the soil should dry out about ½ the height of the pot between waterings. You need to know that the "white sail" tolerates drying out of the soil much easier than waterlogging, so if you doubt the need for watering, it is better to postpone it.
Watering the flower should be especially careful in the cold season.
Fertilize in a timely manner. From the beginning of spring to September, the plant needs to be fed weekly with a complex mineral fertilizer that does not contain lime
If "female happiness" bloomed in winter, it must be fertilized with the same dressings once a month.
But it is very important not to overdo it with fertilizers: an excess of nutrients (primarily nitrogen) is the main reason why spathiphyllum does not bloom, it releases only leaves that acquire a dark green tint. Sometimes, against the background of an overdose of fertilizers, the plant develops chlorosis, the dying off of the green mass and the root system begins.
Correctly transplant
Spathiphyllum should be replanted annually, preferably in early spring. The new container should be only 2-3 cm larger than the previous one, since the plant does not like overly spacious pots. When transplanting, the flower should not be buried too deeply into the soil - the root part of the leaves should remain above the soil surface. The soil for the plant should be light, water and air permeable, with a slightly acidic reaction. A ready-made soil for Aroids or a mixture of manure, leafy, grassy and woody soil in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 2 is well suited. It is very useful to add charcoal to the soil. In addition, you need to take care of good drainage. During transplantation, an adult plant can be divided into several bushes, but this must be done carefully so as not to injure the spathiphyllum. The flower reacts extremely painfully to forced separation, withers and stops growing. The transplant is carried out according to the same scheme as for other Aroids. After the procedure, the plant is not watered for 24 hours and is not fed for a month.
Spathiphyllum pests
In some cases, attacks of harmful insects become the reason for the lack of flowering. In order for spathiphyllum to release buds, it must be treated with appropriate drugs. You can buy insecticidal and fungicidal products at any specialty store.
Most often, the plant is attacked:
- mealybug;
- sooty mushroom;
- spider mite;
- shield aphid.
It is worth noting that spathiphyllum is immune to most dangerous diseases, so if the plant withers and turns yellow, but pests are not visible on it, the problem lies in the violation of the conditions of detention.
How to make spathiphyllum bloom: tricks
Why spathiphyllum does not bloom at home
There are a lot of tricks for spathiphyllum to bloom. The main one is shock therapy. It is recommended to place the flowerpot in an environment where the air temperature is about 12 degrees Celsius for a couple of weeks, and then return it to the room. After that, buds should appear.
Eliminating care errors
First of all, if the spathiphyllum has begun to wither, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the rules for caring for this plant. Depending on the external features of the flower, you need to choose the right place for it in the apartment, where there will be no drafts, humidify the air and remove it away from heating appliances.
With an incorrectly selected pot or soil composition, it is recommended to transplant by choosing a smaller pot and carefully shaking off the substrate from the roots.
Spathiphyllum transplant as needed
Stimulation of flowering with fertilizers and subcrust
Florists need to know how to feed spathiphyllum for abundant flowering. Improperly selected fertilizers can promote the growth of new leaf mass, instead of budding. Organic matter is needed only after the end of the dormant period in order to strengthen the root and immune system of the flower.
After that, it is worth switching to mineral fertilizing. It is recommended to use complex fertilizers, as they contain more nutrients. However, in the absence of flowering, it is worth knowing how to feed the spathiphyllum so that it blooms. Most often, phosphorus and potassium are used for this.
Attention! It is definitely worth stopping applying nitrogenous fertilizers while waiting for flowering.
Purchased funds
It cannot be said what is the best way to fertilize the plants - with purchased or folk remedies. For spathiphyllum, it is recommended to choose any preparation for feeding aroid plants. Most popular remedies:
- Bona forte;
- chelatin;
- nitrophoska;
- azophoska;
- "Green house";
- "Garden of Miracles".
It is necessary to follow the instructions for use and carry out the procedure only with the use of protective equipment.
Folk remedies (sugar, coffee grounds, drunk tea, etc.)
Among folk remedies, you can use the following:
- Tea leaves or coffee grounds. They contain a large amount of oils, trace elements and vitamins. It should be dried before applying to the soil.
- Watering with sugar water will activate the vitality of the flower and increase its immunity.
- The banana peel will also help revitalize the plant. It is recommended to cut the fresh ingredient into small cubes and add to the soil.
Folk remedies are safer for a houseplant than specialized ones, since improper use will not be able to harm.
Banana peel feeding
Spathiphyllum does not bloom - what to do?
Spathiphyllium - belongs to the Aroid family and is evergreen. In common parlance, it has a name - "female happiness". Some people argue that if you put a flower in a house with an unmarried mistress, then she will find her soul mate faster. But if there are quarrels and disagreements in this dwelling, then the flower dies.
In height, a handsome man can reach about 30 centimeters. Sometimes there are varieties that grow much higher or, on the contrary, can be very small (dwarf). There are more than 40 types of spathiphyllums.
The amazing plant is a popular indoor decoration. I like it for the beautiful leaves that grow directly from the soil. Usually they have an oval shape, pointed at the top. The leaves are dark green in color. Of course, the very beautiful flower of spathiphyllum fascinates, which captivates with its snow-white appearance. The inflorescence is a bud, framed by one petal located on the stem. Spathiphyllum will delight its owner with abundant flowering several times a year. The flowering process can begin in mid-spring and last until early fall. With the onset of winter, the indoor flower takes an example from nature and goes into a state of rest.
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It should be borne in mind that the plant is quite thermophilic. The optimum temperature for the growth of spathiphyllum is 22-23 degrees. Temperatures up to 18 degrees, it also tolerates well, but the mark on the thermometer should not fall below.
But still, the female flower is not capricious and does not give its owner a lot of trouble. But when the plant stops blooming or its leaves begin to blacken, brightness is lost - all these symptoms indicate health problems and improper care of it. So why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom, what should I do? What could be the reason?
Problems when growing spathiphyllum due to improperly selected soil
Disturbances in planting and the wrong choice of soil for spathiphyllum can lead to the fact that the flower will constantly be exposed to various diseases, its leaves will begin to dry. It can also affect the ability to bloom: instead of a lush plant constantly releasing new arrows with buds, it will turn into a nondescript bush.
No amount of flower care measures, even with full adherence to agricultural technology, can correct mistakes in soil selection. Due to the heavy, dense soil, moisture will linger at the roots longer than necessary, which will lead to their rotting. Ultimately, the plant may die.
Additional Information! If the “female happiness” planted in a suitable soil refuses to bloom, it is stimulated by transplanting it into a smaller pot.
If the flower was planted in soil that is not able to retain moisture for a sufficient amount of time and constantly dries up, then brown spots will begin to form on the leaves. The same is observed when the acid balance in the soil composition is disturbed. At the same time, the plant looks weakened, lethargic. In the absence of proper measures, the stuntedness of the spathiphyllum will sooner or later provoke the appearance of an infection or an attack of pests.
Novice growers, using a soil mixture of dubious quality, sometimes neglect insect control. In this regard, they encounter various parasites, among which the most common are:
- scabbards;
- root aphid;
- spider mite;
- mealybug.
Having found signs of the presence of pests, they immediately take measures to destroy them. In this case, the flower is transplanted into carefully cultivated, fresh soil. For preventive purposes, the soil is eliminated from the spores of various fungal diseases.
A flower planted in a suitable ground needs minimal maintenance
Spathiphyllum, despite its exotic origin, is considered one of the least demanding indoor plants. A bush provided with sufficient nutrition will delight the grower with juicy leaves and abundant flowering.
Why does spathiphyllum have green flowers
Many flower growers are interested in why the flowers at the spathiphyllum turn green. In fact, this is normal for this flower. During flowering, it goes through several phases, at the final it begins to turn green. At first, the inflorescences gradually acquire a green color, and then completely turn green. For many members of this family, this is a normal physiological process.
If flowers at spathiphyllum turn green, this is normal.
Note! In some cases, the greening of flowers causes a lack or excess of fertilizer, as well as a lack of lighting. In this case, it is necessary to change the light conditions for the plant, feed and revise the watering regime.
An abundantly flowering plant looks gorgeous, and there is a little trick to achieve this. The abundance of spathiphyllum buds directly depends on timely pruning. If the flower is cut at the peak of flowering, then in return the plant will throw out several arrows with buds at once. Thus, during the season, you can form a luxurious plant with an abundance of large flowers. The more often the flowers are cut as soon as they begin to bloom, the more the plant will release new arrows and the fewer small buds there will be.
Important! If the plant initially blooms with green flowers, they need to be cut off.
Diseases and problems
Despite the fact that the plant's endurance is very high, sometimes aphids attack the spathiphyllum, and errors in the irrigation regime provoke the appearance of a spider mite.You can fight them with home remedies, weekly wiping the leaves with a solution of soap with nicotine sulfate. The substrate in the container is preliminarily covered with a protective film. A day after treatment, the preparation is washed off from the leaves. Repeat this operation as needed.
Important! The simplest hygiene procedures - wiping the leaves from dust and periodic inspections will help to avoid the attack of pests or prevent them in time. Illness is usually the result of illiterate care
For example, leaves turn yellow or wither if errors in the regularity of watering are allowed and the soil dries up. If this has already happened, then the plant should be brought back to normal, gradually soaking the soil and increasing the volume of water. Yellowing of the foliage also causes a lack of nutrients, adherence to the feeding regime will help to eliminate it
Illness is usually the result of illiterate care. For example, leaves turn yellow or wither if errors are allowed in the regularity of watering and the soil dries up. If this has already happened, then the plant should be brought back to normal, gradually soaking the soil and increasing the volume of water. The yellowing of the foliage also causes a lack of nutrients; adherence to the feeding regime will help to eliminate it.
The situation becomes more dangerous in which the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn black. As a rule, this is a sign of the death of the root system, which often occurs when waterlogging, keeping the flower in an insufficiently warm room or overfeeding.
Advice! When the leaves turn black, it is necessary to remove the plant from the container, examine the roots and remove the problematic ones, and then transplant it into a new substrate, having previously held it in a solution of "Epin" or "Zircon".
The tips of the leaves of the spathiphyllum dry out with too dry or cold indoor air and a lack of nutrition. It is not difficult to fix this problem, you just need to balance the feeding, as well as change the temperature and humidity in the room.
Spathiphyllum does not bloom if the rules of planting and care are violated. Excessive deepening of the outlet when planting a plant, too spacious a container or the use of liquid wax when caring for leaves - all this provokes a fair delay in flowering.
Note that it is not difficult to fix the listed troubles. Spathiphyllum is extremely responsive to quality care, and as soon as its life processes are restored, the decorativeness of this elegant handsome man also increases.
Differences in care
Spathiphyllum plant is not whimsical and does not require special care. Before flowering, it is enough for him to simply create favorable conditions, such as:
- Lighting. The flower loves bright light and is supportive of partial shade. But the shadow opposite will destroy him.
- The temperature for spathiphyllum is suitable for an average of 20-22 degrees, it can also grow at temperatures up to 16 degrees. But if the degree falls still, the plant will start to hurt and die.
- Before flowering, "female happiness" is rarely watered, but in moderation. You cannot leave water in the pan, otherwise the roots may rot.
- The only and perhaps the main requirement for caring for spathiphyllum is maintaining humidity in the room. You can also spray it twice a day.
- Before flowering, the plant will be fertilized once a month with organic fertilizers.
Attention! It is recommended to transplant the flower before flowering. You should not choose a large pot, because the plant may stop blooming, but will just start putting out new leaves .. During flowering, the care changes slightly:
During flowering, care changes slightly:
- spathiphyllum needs to be watered more often, with warm water, but at the same time, excess moisture from the pallet must still be removed;
- you need to feed the plant more than once a month, but at least once or twice.
All other rules for caring for spathiphyllum remain the same as before flowering.
With good care, "Women's Happiness" pleases with a long flowering, from spring to late autumn. Releasing arrows with inflorescences one by one.When the flowering period ends, the arrows with flowers turn brown and spoil the appearance of the plant.
Therefore, flowering dried stems must be cut as short as possible. This is done so that the plant can rest. Also, after flowering, watering, bathing is reduced and less often fed.
How to care for a plant
The unpretentiousness of this culture has become a proverb, but in order to achieve generous flowering, it is worth taking care of it. In addition, you do not have to strain too much, since caring for spathiphyllum at home is completely unobtrusive.
Lighting and room temperature
Spathiphyllum is shade-tolerant, but it develops better in illuminated places, feeling great on northern windowsills or near east and west windows under diffused light. It develops well and at a sufficient distance from light sources, which is very valuable for furnishing the interior of offices and offices.
Important! The plant compensates for the lack of light by a slight slowdown in growth, rare flowering and more intense coloration of the foliage, which, however, does not affect the overall decorative effect. Spathiphyllum does not put forward special requirements for air temperature and grows productively at 18-25 ° C at any time of the year
It is important not to lower the temperature, since a decrease to 12-14 ° C will complicate the development of the plant, and 10 ° C is already a serious threat that can provoke root rot and death.
Spathiphyllum does not put forward special requirements for air temperature and grows productively at 18-25 ° C at any time of the year
It is important not to lower the temperature, since a decrease to 12-14 ° C will complicate the development of the plant, and 10 ° C is already a serious threat that can provoke root rot and death.
Spathiphyllum does not tolerate drafts, therefore, when choosing a place for a flower, this circumstance is taken into account.
We select the soil for planting
The substrate should be lightweight and breathable. Habits acquired by wild-growing representatives, whose habitat is the lower tier of rain forests with loose, fertile, composted soil, have an effect. The best soil for spathiphyllum is a mixture consisting of peat, garden soil, vermiculite, crushed charcoal and wood chips in a ratio of 3 * 2 * 2 * 1.
To avoid root decay, drainage is used - expanded clay or fine gravel.
Transfer
Young, fast-growing spathiphyllums are transplanted in the spring every year. Adult plants that have reached 4-5 years of age are not touched until the roots appear from the drainage holes of the container. A narrow and shallow pot is convenient for Spathiphyllum, since in large containers the soil sour and inhibits growth, and flowering will not occur until the roots grow over the entire volume of the container.
Important! With each next transplant, the size of the new container is increased slightly - by 1-1.5 cm.Immediately before transplanting, the spathiphyllum is well watered
The ability of the plant to grow rapidly leads to crushing of the leaves and, so that the flower pleases with large textured foliage and high peduncles, lateral processes are separated from the spathiphyllum when transplanted, which draws off nutrition
A layer of expanded clay (2.5-3 cm) is laid at the bottom of the container, then the plant is placed together with an earthen lump and the soil is poured, carefully compacting it, after which it is generously watered with water with the addition of aloe juice. For the next 3-5 days, the plant should not be moistened, but it should be sprayed twice a day.
Immediately before transplanting, spathiphyllum is well watered. The ability of the plant to grow quickly leads to the crushing of the leaves and, so that the flower pleases with large textured foliage and high peduncles, lateral processes are separated from the spathiphyllum when transplanted, which draws off nutrition.
A layer of expanded clay (2.5-3 cm) is laid at the bottom of the container, then the plant is placed together with an earthen lump and the soil is poured, carefully compacting it, after which it is generously watered with water with the addition of aloe juice. For the next 3-5 days, the plant should not be moistened, but it should be sprayed twice a day.
Watering
With its love for humidity, spathiphyllum does not welcome stagnation of water in the sump. Watering during the active period should be generous, but reasonable: as the surface layer of the soil dries up, the culture is abundantly moistened. In a calm period (from November to January), watering is reduced, still not allowing the earthen to dry out completely
Taking into account the high level of dry air in urban apartments in winter, the water regime should be monitored constantly. It is useful for the winter to place a container with a plant in a tray with damp pebbles.
The air humidity in the room should be high, and with the onset of the spring-summer season, frequent spraying is carried out, which the sapathiphyllum gratefully accepts, noticeably adding decorativeness.
Prophylaxis
Do not panic when greenish-colored flowers appear, because this is most often a natural aging process of the peduncle.
To avoid re-greening of flowers, it is important:
- cut off the green flower that has bloomed. This is done in order to preserve the nutrition of the plant;
- spray the bush regularly, water it quite abundantly, but do not flood;
- protect from direct sunlight;
- maintain the temperature regime (in winter - not lower than 16 ° C, optimal 20 - 25 ° C);
- act very carefully when transplanting, without damaging the roots.
Important! It can be noted that spathiphyllum has useful properties: it cleans the air from harmful impurities (benzene, acetone, formaldehyde). Some see it as a good energetic - it protects against stress and emotional exhaustion.
You are watching your pet with great concern and wondering - why does my spathiphyllum not want to bloom? For its magnificent flowering, it is necessary to create certain conditions.
We want to tell you about this in separate articles. Our experts will share with you all the secrets of caring for this beautiful plant. And it will give you many unforgettable moments of joy and pride for such a beautiful and healthy look of a flower.
Main types
Despite the fact that the species includes more than 50 varieties of spathiphyllum, only a few varieties of flowers are grown in indoor conditions, for the rest the house is an uncomfortable place in which the plant simply does not take root.
Spathiphyllum flowers are not only white
Spathiphyllum profusely flowering
Abundantly flowering spathiphyllum is one of the largest indoor plants of the described species. It can grow up to 60 cm in height. The length of the flower cover is 12 cm, as is the length that the leaf of the plant has.
Wallis Spathiphyllum
This variety can most often be found on the windowsills of apartments. In order for a plant to grow successfully, a minimum of space and maintenance is required. Wallis' spathiphyllum grows up to a height of no more than 40 cm and has a smaller leaf and flower compared to other varieties.
It was these types of flower that became the mother for a huge number of varieties, for example, Picasso, Domino and many others.
Important! In flower shops you can find spetiphyllum with original inflorescences of blue, red and other colors. It should be understood that a similar effect can be achieved only through the use of special dyes.
The natural color of the plants was white, green or pink.