When to transplant daylilies

Fungal diseases of clematis and their treatment

Experienced gardeners say: diseases typical of the culture are most often attributed to fungal infections.

That is, speaking about why the leaves of clematis turn yellow, what to do in such a situation, it should be noted: it is important to immediately check the plant for the presence of a fungus. The main symptoms can be distinguished:

• withering;
• the appearance of spots of different colors and shapes on leaf plates and stems;
• slowdown in growth and development;
• deterioration of flowering.

If the disease is not cured in time, clematis may die during wintering.

Wilt verticillus or wilt

Wilt causes a microscopic fungus called Verticillium that lives in the ground in clematis. Through small wounds in the roots of the creeper, it penetrates into them, and then into the vessels of the plant. The mycelium clogs up all the lumens, which leads to starvation of the vine. The leaves begin to darken from the bottom up, the shoots wither.

If untreated, this clematis disease progresses rapidly. In just one day, large shoots can die off. Of course, all stems affected by the fungus must be removed. There is no effective treatment, you can only cultivate the soil. For this, the preparations "Fundazol" and "Maxim" are suitable.

Phomopsis

This disease, also known as black spot, begins to manifest itself in clematis as early as May and early June. You can notice it in the lower part of the liana - yellow or brown spots of a round shape appear on the leaves near the ground. At first, these are small foci, which subsequently grow and merge into large spots. As a prophylaxis for phomopsis, plants should be sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate before winter. Fungicides effectively fight the disease. Gardeners consider Previkur one of the best drugs for treatment.

Gray rot

The reasons for this ailment of garden dwellers are lack of lighting, rainy weather, insufficient ventilation of the bushes. It is not difficult to recognize gray rot: brown spots with a gray edge appear on the flowers and leaves of clematis. If treatment is not started on time, the leaves and stems will die off. In the fight against the disease, the preparations "Previkur" and "Fundazol" are excellent help.

Additional information: Spores that are released by gray mold spread quickly over large areas by the wind, which leads to infection of other crops!

Fusarium

The fungus also causes fusarium wilting. The mycelium fills the weakened parts of the plant, which disrupts metabolism and vascular conductivity. Fusarium is characterized by curling of leaves, wilting of stems and the appearance of brown spots on flowers and leaves.

All affected plants must be immediately removed and burned, and the instruments must be thoroughly disinfected.

Fungicides will help fight the problem.

Rust

It is possible to detect rust on clematis in the spring - the leaves are covered with a red bloom, bright orange swellings can form on the plates. As with other fungi, spores quickly spread throughout the area, infecting other crops.

It is important to remove all infected parts of the plant as soon as possible and treat the vine with "Previkur" or "Ridomil"

Note! The most important preventive measure is the removal of wheatgrass: it is on this weed that fungal spores wintering, causing rust

Powdery mildew (Erysiphales)

The description of the disease fully corresponds to its name: the entire clematis bush looks like it was sprinkled with flour. Due to powdery mildew, the liana turns brown, deforms, flowering stops. Treatment with "Funazol" and "Previkur" will help in the fight against the disease

Clematis can be treated with mustard

Folk methods are also very effective. Spraying with soda ash or mustard composition will help cure powdery mildew.

Ascochitosis

If dark brown, brownish or black spots appear on the leaves, we can talk about the defeat of clematis by ascochitosis. Over time, the spots enlarge, forming holes in the leaves. The disease manifests itself in the second half of summer, no specific treatment has been developed. Experienced gardeners recommend traditional antifungal treatments.

Alternaria, septoria, cylindrosporiasis

These fungal diseases manifest themselves in approximately the same way - the leaves become stained, die off, and the shoots wither. Treatment of clematis with fungicides, spraying with copper-containing preparations is suitable as a treatment.

Breeding methods for daylilies

By dividing the bush

1 Scheme for dividing a daylily bush; 2 Scheme for planting a delenka.

Option 1

Dividing a bush is the easiest way to breed daylilies. It is used for daylilies 5-7 years old.

For this, the daylily is dug up, gently shaken off or washed off the soil. Very old specimens are dried in the shade for a day and then cleared of the ground

The roots are carefully separated by hand so that each section has a part of the root collar with buds.

Very old specimens are dried in the shade for a day and then cleared of the ground

The roots are carefully separated by hand so that each section has a part of the root collar with buds.

Very long roots are shortened by 1/3.

From a 5-year-old bush, you can get up to 20 divisions, which bloom after 2 years. (see diagram 1)

Delenki are planted at the same depth as adult plants and watered. (see diagram 2)

Option 2

Scheme 3. Method of vegetative propagation of daylily by obtaining new shoots from a mother plant

This method of dividing is used in early spring, when the shoots do not exceed 5 - 10 cm.

The soil is scooped from the roots of the transplant specimen.

A sharp knife is used to cut the stem just above the root collar (you cannot leave a high stump, since the buds will start growing too late).

After 3-4 weeks, you can get up to 6 new shoots. After 1-2 years, the bush is divided. (see diagram 3)

Option 3

Varieties of daylilies with a loose bush can be dismembered with a shovel into 2-4 parts (the decorative effect of the bush is preserved and the division blooms in the year of planting).

Option 4

Alternatively, you can cut off a part of the daylily from a large uterine specimen with a shovel. As a rule, the delenki take root well, and the mother plant does not need to be dug up.

Flowering period of daylilies

Daylily is also known as hemerocallis or krasodnev. Hemerocallis - The Greek name for the plant comes from the two words hemera (day) and kallos (beauty). This name fully describes the flower, because the daylily blooms for a day, maximum two.

Note! The daylily has nothing to do with lilies. These words are absolutely not synonymous.

These are two different plants, the daylily has a rhizome genus, and the lily is bulbous.

Daylily plant flowering time - from late June to August. Some hybrid varieties can bloom again. As a rule, after the first flowering, they release arrows again.

When the daylily blooms quite unpretentious, it easily tolerates changes in the weather: winds, rains, drought, temperature changes. Daylily loves moisture and sun. It is enough to plant a plant on the sunny side, not forgetting to water, it will definitely delight you with its unusual color.

How many days does the daylily bloom every gardener knows. The lifespan of one blossoming flower is one day. The garden where such flowers grow will not be empty because the flowers bloom one after another. There are a lot of inflorescences, sometimes their number reaches 20-25 pieces per bush. This creates a picture of continuous, bright flowering.The daylily bloom period can produce 2-3 flowers per day, and in this case the composition will be even brighter.

Daylily buds

When and in what month does the daylily bloom? Common varieties bloom in July, but some daylily hybrids may bloom in June or even May. This is usually inherent in indoor daylilies.

Some gardeners note that the flower does not grow in buds. There may be several reasons:

• The young bush suffers from overgrowth of weeds. It is best to regularly weed the soil around the plant in the first year after planting. A little later, when the bush grows, it will no longer allow the weeds to grow.
• Poor soil can also be the reason for the lack of flowers. Despite the fact that the plant is unpretentious, poor soil will not allow new buds to grow. A small top dressing in the spring with potassium, phosphorus, and in the fall with organic fertilizers, will avoid this trouble.
• Lack of sunlight and non-compliance with planting technology. Do not bury the plant too deeply in the ground.

Daylily that does not bloom

Additional Information! Despite the fact that the daylily is very hardy, it also sometimes needs additional care. Only in this case will he delight those around him with beautiful flowering processes.

How daylilies bloom

Daylily is a herbaceous plant from the lily family. Some hybrid species, such as the bulbous daylily, do indeed look like a lily with long, linear leaves that can be curved in an arc.

Plant colors range from white, slightly yellowish to bright burgundy or brown. The pattern on the petals can also be different: stripes, strokes, specks. Some varieties have a bluish tint. On average, daylilies bloom during the month, but sometimes cloudy weather can extend this period.

Interesting! Professionals have more than 30 thousand varieties, different shapes, structures and patterns of daylily. Decorative types are collected in bouquets in an arc or fan.

According to the shape of the flower, the following varieties can be distinguished:

• terry - have up to 9 petals;
• the spider has the widest lobes with a 5: 1 ratio;
• another variety is distinguished by flowers of an unusual shape, and all other species can be attributed to hybrid varieties.

Bicolor daylily

There is a classification of plants by color. Here, experts distinguish several large groups at once:

• orange - various variations of yellow, apricot and melon;
• yellow, gold - there are options with different edges, for example, terry with a corrugated edge;
• cinnamon ones combine several flowers of dark, brick colors;
• velvet plants have a deep, rich color;
• night and other dark shades (daylilies of dark red and purple colors);
• lavender, lilac - a separate large group with several types of varieties;
• almost white have a slight tint, or fading to pink, yellow or peach.

The breeders have not yet brought out a pure white color. In addition, there are the usual varieties with red, pink and pale beige flowers. There is also a kind of two and three-color varieties. They are a large group. These include daylilies with different textures, for example, corrugated, glossy, with a slight relief, compressed. All these parameters are specified by the manufacturer.

Most often, in such varieties, a bright, accent spot is in the center, and then the transition from one shade to another. Plants with various patterns can also be found: with stripes, spots, lines. For example, there is a small rim around the neck. These varieties look impressive.

What year does jasmine bloom and how long does the flowering period last?

Jasmine, or chubushnik, is highly decorative - it is grown at home or in the garden. Most often, the plant has beautiful white flowers. Due to this, it is often used in landscape design.

With the right care, jasmine blooms luxuriantly

Many people are interested in what year after planting jasmine blooms. The timing of the beginning of flowering directly depends on the variety. This usually occurs at 2-4 years of age.

At the same time, there are no guarantees at all that the culture will bloom at this age. Growing conditions may not be suitable for the crop, resulting in bud loss. In such a situation, it is necessary to take care of the jasmine bush so that it can bloom.

The flowering period depends on the type of shrub:

• spring - bloom from early spring to late summer;
• summer - flowers appear from June and persist until the first frost;
• winter - bloom from the beginning of the year to mid-spring.

The region of cultivation is also important. So, in the Moscow region flowers will appear earlier than in Siberia, but later than in the southern regions.

When planting, you need to know how many years the jasmine begins to bloom.

Differences in flowering garden and indoor jasmine

The main feature of a houseplant is the presence of a period of winter dormancy. Flowering can last from early spring to autumn. When grown at home, flowers are present for 3 weeks. Then they fall off, and the bush forms new shoots.

Important! Indoor jasmine smells strong, which can cause headaches. Therefore, the container with the culture should be taken out to another room at night.

Indoor jasmine has a dormant period.

Plant resuscitation

Why does the daylily not bloom, what to do and how to quickly help it? Regular examinations and observation of the flower help in time to notice the incipient fungal infection or rotting of the roots.

It is important to monitor the reaction of the shrub after fertilizing, watering and replanting. After finding the cause of the problem, the care of the plant should be brought back to normal as soon as possible.

Daylily resuscitation, depending on the reasons:

Before planting a plant, it is important to know the best period for planting a young seedling. In the middle of autumn, a young seedling should not be flooded with prolonged rains or frostbitten by the first frosts.

For the winter, it is better to mulch such an escape.
If a mistake in planting a daylily was discovered the next year, in the spring the young seedling looks very weak. It is necessary to strengthen its care: remove weeds in time, treat diseases and pests, water it correctly and carefully apply fertilizers. In order for the plant to take root well in a new place, it can be fertilized with solutions for growing the root system. The reanimated bush will bloom no earlier than in two seasons.

Care and maintenance pays off in full - bright and long flowering

A too deep fit is easy to check by digging out the root collar

If the daylily has gone deep into the ground, you need to transplant the seedling.
Improper watering is important to adjust as soon as possible before the plant dies. It is necessary to observe the young bush, since the irrigation scheme depends on the type of soil, the size of the bush and weather conditions.
Underfilling nitrogen fertilizers is better than overfilling

If the buds did not appear on time, you need to transplant the plant into a new substrate. Otherwise, the bush will grow violently green mass without releasing a single flower. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers can cause the plant to discard the buds.
If the daylily grows too densely, you need to thin out the shrub. When young shoots are planted in another place, the mother bush needs to renew its nutrition by replacing the soil layer.
In the absence of flowering due to shading, you will have to transplant the bush to a sunnier place.
In the fight against diseases and pests, preventive treatment every spring and in the middle of the season is the ideal solution.

Daylilies rarely show their "character" in terms of flowering. If it does not bloom, then the reason is really serious. To find out what is the matter when the daylily grows poorly, it is better before planting it, having studied the conditions for the growth of the culture. This will help get rid of many problems and hassle in flower care.

Diseases and pests of daylilies

Daylily diseases

Unfortunately, today the daylily is quite often affected by various diseases. There are five categories of diseases that this plant suffers from:

• non-infectious (grassing, vertical cracking of the peduncle or its rupture, uneven color of the flower, green sepals and other problems) - painful conditions that arise under the influence of such unfavorable environmental conditions as lack of moisture, waterlogging, too low or too high temperature and humidity, deficiency certain nutrients or, conversely, their excess;
• bacterial (soft rot of the root collar and others) - harmful diseases that cause microorganisms that penetrate through natural holes or places of mechanical damage. They can manifest themselves in different ways: rotting, wilting, the formation of growths, necrosis and burns. Fighting them can be exhausting and not always successful;
• fungal - rust, cercosporosis, iris leaf spot and other diseases. Most of the fungal infections are destroyed by fungicides, however, these drugs are ineffective against some pathogens, so the most important way to fight is prevention;
• viral (ring spot tobacco virus, mosaic) is the most dangerous category, since it is useless to fight viruses, you should immediately remove infected plants. The symptoms of these diseases are expressed in the mosaic pattern on the leaves and jaundice, and the carriers are primarily sucking insects.

In fairness, it should be noted that 85% of daylily problems are associated with improper growing conditions and insufficient care. It is these factors that increase the stress state of plants and create the risk of infection with diseases. In order to reduce this risk, follow these simple rules:

• remove plant debris in the fall and keep the area clean;
• sterilize garden tools before and after use in a solution of 1 part bleach in 4 parts water, lubricate the tools with machine oil before storing them to prevent corrosion;
• grow disease and pest resistant varieties of daylily,
• during the growing season, kill weeds in a timely manner, mulch the plantings, organize them so that each plant has access to air, and, if possible, install a drip irrigation system.

Daylily pests

Daylilies and among insects have many enemies: bears, slugs and snails, nematodes, scoops, various beetles and their larvae, bugs, aphids, gall midges. Spider mites - spider and root mites also settle on daylilies.

To destroy harmful insects, daylilies are treated with insecticides, and in the fight against ticks they resort to acaricidal or insectoacaricidal preparations. But the most effective way to protect daylilies from pests is prevention:

• weed control and digging of soil between rows to destroy larvae;
• lowering the acidity of the soil and improving its aeration, contributing to the expulsion of beetles;
• organization of traps for beetles and sowing in the aisles of crops that beetles do not tolerate: soybeans, beans, collard greens, peas or beans.

Of the radical methods of destroying pests, the most effective are the application of Bazudin to the site during digging and planting and the systemic treatment of the planting from adults with a five percent solution of adulticide Solfak, and from larvae and eggs with a twenty-five percent solution of Larvicide Baytsidal.

Step 1 - choosing a landing site

Some growers claim that daylilies will grow well in partial shade and even in the shade. Of course, such a place is suitable for species daylilies that grow in nature on forest edges, among shrubs.But if we are talking about modern hybrids, then in our climate only in the sun they will be able to fully manifest all their garden qualities. Hybrid daylilies should be sunbathing for at least 6 hours a day. However, it should be remembered that when planted in the sun, dark-colored varieties and varieties with a dark, almost black eye, burn and acquire the characteristic sheen of the petals. Almost white varieties are best planted in the sun itself. In this case, the barely noticeable shades of pink, yellow, melon, present in the color of such varieties, fade in the sun, and the daylily becomes almost white.

Lack of space

Some varieties of daylily begin to grow very quickly when they bloom. They actively increase the volume of leaves and rhizomes. If this happens, then in a few years the beautiful day will turn from a compact plant into a shrub of huge size, which will require a lot of nutrients. To avoid this, experienced gardeners recommend at least once every 5-6 years to carry out the procedure for dividing the rhizome. With its help, the plant rejuvenates, becomes less dense and replenishes the supply of nutrients.

Too close growing conditions can lead to the fact that the plant shrinks in size, and its buds change color to a less bright one.

Important! In order to prevent such situations, it is enough to make sure that young seedlings are immediately planted at a sufficient distance from each other.