Varieties and types of elderberry
One of the most common representatives of the genus is the European black elderberry (Sambucus nigra), which is a dense, highly branched shrub or not very tall tree. It is characterized by a fairly rapid growth (up to 60 cm per year), reaching a height of 2 to 6 meters, depending on the variety.
The leaves are pinnate, consisting of small leaves up to 30 cm long. In wild shrubs, they are dark green, the color of the leaves of ornamental varieties can be light green, variegated and even almost black.
Small, creamy white or pink fragrant flowers are collected in flat corymbose inflorescences 10-20 cm in diameter. Numerous, spherical fruits appear in early autumn. Abundantly fruiting bushes have so many berries that the stems bend under their weight.
The fruits remain on the bushes even after the first frost
The elderberry blossoms are so beautiful that even a wild shrub during this period attracts attention.
The most interesting varieties of black elderberry
Elderberry "Aurea" with golden leaves at the beginning of the season and yellow-green in summer.
"Aureomarginata" - foliage with golden edges. The height of the bush is about 3 m.
"Aureovariegata" - is distinguished by yellow spots on the leaves.
Gerda is a shrub up to 3.5 meters high with dark purple leaves and pink flowers.
"Guincho Purple" - dark purple, glossy leaves of a small shrub acquire a red hue in autumn, shoots are also purple in color, inflorescences are deep pink.
An exciting variety of Black Lace, also known as Eve. It stands out among other varietal forms with openwork, deeply dissected purple-violet leaves. Inflorescences are pink, appear in late spring. In the fall, the leaves turn red.
The elder "Black Tower" or "Black Tower" is a slow growing columnar shrub 2 m high and 1 m wide. Young green leaves turn purple-violet over time. Ideal for small gardens. Inflorescences are pink.
"Linearis" is a bush up to 2 meters high with very narrow, indented leaves.
Elderberry "Madonna" is a compact ornamental shrub with bright yellow-green leaves.
Elderberry "Latsiniata" is a fast-growing compact bush up to 2 meters high with an openwork crown of deeply dissected leaves.
"Pulverulenta" is a dwarf shrub about 1.5 m high. The varietal form is characterized by unusual colored leaves, almost white in spring. In summer, the green color begins to dominate, and the leaves become variegated with white spots.
"Purpurea" - young purple-green leaves, bright green with age.
The blue elder is a small ornamental tree native to the western regions of the United States and Mexico. In season, the tree is decorated with lush inflorescences, and in autumn it is strewn with clusters of bluish-blue fragrant edible berries similar to blueberries.
The red-brown bark of the plant contrasts effectively with the pale green color of the foliage. The disadvantage of this type is its low frost resistance.
Red elderberry (Sambucus racemosa) or elder racemosa is similar to other species, but with one important difference - its red berries are unsuitable for food, as they are poisonous, therefore the bush is grown as an ornamental plant.
Numerous bright red fruits against the background of feathery green leaves make the bush a bright accent of the autumn garden. This species also has several spectacular varietal forms.
"Plumosa aurea"
Elderberry Plumosa aurea and Sutherland Gold are varieties with golden yellow, delicate foliage that turns green in the shade. Sutherland Gold received an award from the Royal Horticultural Society for its high decorativeness.
"Sutherland Gold"
"Lemon Lace" or "Lemony Lace" is a very hardy and showy plant with feathery light green leaves.
There are also varieties with purple foliage and pink flowers.
Elderberry (Sambucus ebulus). Perennial grass 1-2 m high with straight, usually unbranched stems. As it grows, forms large groups with an extensive underground rhizome. The leaves are pinnate, 15-30 cm long. All parts of the plant are poisonous.
The elder Siebold (Sambucus sieboldiana) is native to East Asia. The species is named after the German physician and botanist Philip Franz von Siebold. It is a powerful shrub with very large leaves and large inflorescences.
Varieties with pink flowers
‘Sarah Bernhardt’
Unsurpassed ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ (‘Sarah Bernhardt’). Photo by the author
Dense double caps of flowers of an amazing pink-lilac shade. ‘Sarah Bernhardt’. Photo by 'Albert Crousse' 'Monsieur Jules Elie'
Pink-lilac blooming ‘Albert Crousse’ (‘Albert Crousse’). Photo by 'Alice Harding' 'Belle Douaisienne' 'Madelon'
Fragrant 'Alice Harding'. Photo from the site paeo.de’Eugenie Verdier’
- ‘Madame Boulanger’ (‘Madame Boulanger’, 1886) is a rosy variety with silvery flesh-edged petals;
- ‘Madame Calot’ (‘Madame Calot’, 1856) is a hemispherical peony with pink lower petals and cream central ones;
- ‘Madame Marine’ (‘Madame Marine’, 1881) a rare salmon pink shade;
- ‘Madame Reignoux’ (‘Madame Reignoux’, 1909) with pink-red flowers.
‘Madame Calot’ (‘Madame Calot’) is a hemispherical peony. 'Philomele'
The old variety 'Philomele' ('Philomel').
Landing features
Peony is a rather unpretentious plant, but nevertheless, in order for the bush to develop well and bloom annually, certain rules must be observed when planting and further caring for it.
You need to choose the right place for planting, since a peony can grow in one place for a very long time: even up to 50 years. Therefore, it should be a fairly sunny place, and it is desirable that the sun is present in the first half of the day. Light partial shade is allowed. In the shade, the bush will develop poorly and will never bloom. It is also undesirable to plant peonies in the lowlands, as this can cause root rot.
There are some requirements for the soil. Peonies grow well in loamy soil with slightly increased acidity (
6.6 pH). But the soil should not be too dense. Therefore, highly clayey soil must be diluted with sand, humus, peat, ash can be added. And in sandy soil, on the contrary, add clay and humus.
It is advisable to transplant and plant herbaceous peonies in the fall, in August or in September, when the summer heat subsides, and the air becomes cooler, and the rhizome will have time to adapt and take root before the onset of cold weather.
A hole for a peony seedling must be prepared in advance: a week before planting.
- Drainage needs to be poured into the bottom of a pit about 0.6 m 3 in size. This is coarse sand with pebbles, shards, pieces of brick.
- Then you should add a nutrient mixture, including complex fertilizer, humus, lime, ash, and sprinkle with prepared soil on top.
- After a few days, when the ground has settled, the plant can be planted.
The peony is unlikely to bloom in the first year after planting, so you should not immediately be disappointed. The plant needs to gain strength and power for flowering. But if the buds do not appear in subsequent years, it means that a mistake was made during planting, and an adjustment must be made.
In order for peonies to delight every year with lush flowering, they need relatively simple care. This is correct and timely watering, fertilization and protection from insect pests and diseases. In the spring, under the bushes of peonies, you need to loosen the ground, remove the remnants of weeds and water thoroughly (at least 3 buckets of water for each bush), and for the growth of stems and leaves, fertilize with nitrogen, for example, ammonium nitrate. Further, when the buds begin to appear, it is necessary to feed the plant with potash fertilizers or use ash.
In the summer, care consists in removing weeds, periodically loosening the soil and timely watering. It is better to water less often, but more abundantly.After all the buds have faded, they must be removed, and the plant must be fed with mineral potash, phosphorus or organic fertilizers.
In summer, especially in hot weather, aphids can become active. Since it has the ability to multiply very quickly, you must try to get rid of it as soon as possible. To do this, you can use an infusion of tobacco, a solution of laundry soap for spraying, or purchase chemicals for pest control in specialized stores.
At the end of summer, you need to increase watering, since at this time new buds begin to form. But with the onset of autumn cold weather, watering is stopped, and when the first frosts begin, you need to cut the stems almost to ground level. Burn all plant residues, treat the cuts with ash.
For a description of peonies, planting and care features, see the next video.
