Peonies after flowering
Peonies have faded - what to do?
Peonies bloom in late May or early June. Remove all wilted flowers, after two weeks, apply a third fertilization with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and continue to water the plants regularly. In August, watering should become more abundant, since the period of laying replacement buds begins, and the plant will need moisture.
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Preparing peonies for winter
When the leaves and stems of peonies begin to turn yellow, watering should be gradually reduced, and when frosts come, you need to cut the ground part of the bush almost to the level of the soil. If in the fall you planted old peonies or planted new ones, you will have to cover this area with peat mulch with a layer of 5-7 cm so that peonies that are weak after transplanting feel comfortable in winter. In the spring, when the peony sprouts appear, the mulch layer can be removed.
In the photo: Seeds of peonies
Peonies in winter
Peonies winter in the garden. Old bushes are not afraid of frost, and if you have covered young peonies for the winter, then you can be calm: your flowers will not die.
Seat selection
We recommend that you familiarize yourself
The process of replanting peonies begins with site selection and soil preparation. The impressive appearance and longevity of the bush depend not only on the quality of the source material, but also on the growing conditions. Peonies are able to exist in the chosen place for many years, and it is not recommended to disturb them with unnecessary transplants.
In this case, you must adhere to simple rules:
- 1Select a location that is open to sunlight and protected from the wind.
- 2Do not place peonies near buildings, trees and shrubs, since air circulation in such places is worse than in an open area. The presence of other plants can negatively affect the growth of peonies due to lack of moisture and nutrients.
- 3Avoid areas where groundwater lies, since the roots of the peony are easily subject to rotting due to excess moisture.
The success of the growth of peony directly depends on the composition of the soil. The predominance of sand contributes to the fact that with an abundance of foliage, few flowers are formed. Clay soil, on the other hand, is a medium due to which the size of flowers and stems is increased, while the growth of shrubs is slowed down.
Loamy soil is considered preferable, rich in nutrients necessary for optimal plant development, with weak acidity for their full assimilation. Therefore, for planting in heavy clay soil, sand is mixed with fertilizers. Clay must be added to the sandy soil. You can reduce acidity with lime.
Division of a peony
Division is an important part of the "life" of a peony. This is a kind of rejuvenating procedure that allows you to rid the plant of dry and dead residues, foci of rot and rodent damage, as well as to stimulate further flowering.
To divide the roots, you will need a garden or sturdy kitchen knife, pruning shears, and sometimes even a hatchet with a hammer.
Start dividing the peony about a day after the rhizome is removed from the ground. During this time, it should dry out slightly. Before dividing the peony, carefully examine the root system. Each stem has 1 to 3 buds. From them, the root system develops, which can be considered isolated, since it lags slightly behind the massive rhizome. It is such small cuttings with one bud that can be used in the first place, especially if you want to get a small flowering bush next year.
If you decide to divide a piece with 2-3 buds, this does not mean that the bush will automatically bloom more luxuriantly and profusely. On the contrary, in this case, the plant will spend more energy on the healing of tissues in the places of pruning, but the likelihood of root decay will increase significantly.
On some roots, traces of the "barbaric activity" of mice will immediately become noticeable. They literally gnaw large pieces of sweet and juicy roots. Such damaged roots cannot be transferred to a new place and, moreover, they must not be divided and transplanted.
In the future, the division process looks like this:
Separate single buds with a small root system first. Sometimes they literally lag behind the base themselves, and only need to be slightly trimmed. Make sure that a sufficient number of fine suction roots leave the bud, which will help the plant survive the winter and provide it with nutrients in the spring;
remove dead pieces and sprinkle with charcoal. Rub them so that a thick layer of charcoal forms. This will help prevent pests from entering;
in the future, choose parts consisting of 2-3 growth buds. Try to carry out the division, keeping the bush in weight, since the roots of the base are rather fragile, and if you put the bush on them, you can damage the entire rhizome. Keep in mind that the roots of an adult peony are very juicy and dense, and they must be carefully cut and actively torn from each other with your hands, while trying not to damage;
Remove old and dry stems, and rub all sections with charcoal. Cut out rotten and rodent-damaged parts. Remove old and entwined rhizomes. From one bush 4-6 years old, you can get 3-4 pieces of different sizes;
Transplanted plant care
In order for the peony to take root quickly after transplantation, you must first leave it alone for 1-2 weeks, and then provide it with normal care. First of all, it is watering
As the land dries up, it is important to add water. In the fall, this procedure is rarely done, as there is usually enough rain.
But in spring and summer this is very important. The land where the peony grows should always be loose, without weeds. So weeding is very important.
For the winter, you need to cut the peony, spud and shelter from frost
For the winter, pruning of a peony is carried out, which was planted in spring, summer. And after that, the peony takes shelter from frost. You can cover it with fallen leaves, peat, hay or something similar.
It does not take much time to care for the flowers; they need infrequent, but abundant watering and loosening the earth around the bush. Facilitating maintenance, the gardener can mulch the soil, this achieves moisture preservation, the soil remains loose, the root system does not overheat, and the growth of weeds is suppressed.
For the first year, there is no need for top dressing if fertilizers have been applied to the planting pit.
If, nevertheless, buds are tied on the bushes in the year of planting, it is better to cut them off, allowing the plant to fully root and grow stronger.
In autumn, care after transplanting consists in preparing the seedlings for winter: they are covered with a 10-14 cm layer of peat (except for acidic soil) or spruce branches. In the spring, the mulch is raked to the sides and standard plant care begins.
Next fall, it is also better to cover the bush for the winter.
They bloom after transplanting, usually after two years or even 4-5, it depends on the care and type of flower. But it is better to let them bloom fully in the third year, since early flowering, on the contrary, will bring more benefit than harm.
In the first year of budding, cut them all off. For the second year, leave only one bud, and when it begins to bloom, cut it as short as possible. Then examine the flower to match the variety. In case of incomplete match for the next year, also leave one bud, and so on until complete identity occurs.
Often this happens even in the 4th or 5th year.
The most common reasons for the lack of flowering are the wrong planting site (little light), the wrong planting depth, improper care (little moisture or nutrients), or the wrong shelter for the winter.
Read more in the article on the care and cultivation of peonies.
1. LANDING OF PIONES IN OPEN GROUND - OVERVIEW!
2. PIONE CARE - HOW TO GROW A HEALTHY FLOWER?
3. REPRODUCTION OF HERBAL PIONES - ALL WAYS!
4. TREE PEONIES: LANDING AND CARE!
5. HOW TO REPLOT AND REPRODUCT TREE PIONES?
6. VARIETIES AND VARIETIES OF PIONES, WHICH ARE BEAUTIFUL?
7. BLUE AND BLUE PIONES: DO YOU HAVE ANYTHING?
We wish you a successful transplant and early flowering!
A new plant after transplanting is usually sick for up to three weeks. At this time, the bushes must be properly looked after.
Immediately after determining the colors, the soil is watered. To avoid root disease, you can add a few grains of potassium permanganate to the water (7-10 liters). The solution will prevent disease-causing bacteria from infecting the system.
When cold weather sets in, the bushes are carefully covered until next spring. Peonies are opened when the threat of frost has passed. From this moment, they need not only watering, but also other measures to improve growth.
Mulching
In early spring, peonies must be mulched with humus, compost or rotten bark. Do not throw fresh manure at the root, it can burn the kidneys and root system. Mulch protects the plants from excessive sun exposure and possible soil erosion after heavy rainfall.
For peonies, abundant and infrequent watering is suitable. With prolonged heat preservation, the bushes are watered in the evening once a week. One plant accounts for at least 20-30 liters of water. Watering should not be skipped during abundant growth, bud setting and flowering.
Fertilizers
If the planting pit was well fed, then in the next 2-3 years the peonies do not need additional nutrients. After three years, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied under the bushes in early spring, and during the bud laying, emphasis is placed on fertilizing with nitrogen.
Garter
After active flowering, dried buds are removed. Fallen petals can create a root layer in which pathogens multiply rapidly.
Features of planting at different times of the year
In order to choose the right time to plant peonies, it is important to know the structure of the root system of the shrub and the characteristics of its growth. The main massive part of the root is a storehouse of valuable reserves
These thick roots feed the bush during hibernation, protecting the peony from frost. Thinner processes from them are a platform for the growth of buds and stems. These processes are responsible for the density of the bush and the volume of flowering, because it is on them that replacement buds and new shoots grow. The buds of these roots appear at the end of September and look like thin white root shoots.
The last and most important type of peony root is the suction root. They are very thin white, look like a spider web. It is for these roots that such a deep and nutritious planting pit is made. They collect and suck moisture and food into the bush. The degree of survival of a young peony seedling depends on their presence. But you need to catch the moment when to transplant the peony to another place.
In the spring
The main disadvantage of the spring transplant is that you can be late. In the spring, the plant wakes up and begins to actively build up suction roots. If at this moment you dig up a peony bush and damage most of these roots, there is a high probability that the bush will die. He simply will have nothing to feed on, and he will exhaust all his reserves from the massive roots-pantries.
Important! Peonies transplanted in spring can then release dense foliage, but they will not be able to overwinter, since they will exhaust their winter reserves for summer growth. If you still plant peonies in the spring, then it is better sooner than later - as soon as the snow has melted and the bush has not yet woken up
In this case, the roots will be still dormant and will wake up in a new place after transplantation. In spring there is a lot of moisture, the sun does not overheat the soil. Often, such seedlings actively build up their root system and successfully leave in winter, and the next year they even release buds.
If you still plant peonies in the spring, then it is better sooner than later - as soon as the snow has melted and the bush has not yet woken up. In this case, the roots will be still dormant and will wake up in a new place after transplantation. In spring there is a lot of moisture, the sun does not overheat the soil. Often, such seedlings actively build up their root system and successfully leave in winter, and even release buds the next year.
Summer
In the summer, there is an active increase in green mass. The suction roots have grown and are firmly anchored in the soil. In the summer, they grow very slowly and fulfill their main function - the delivery of food and moisture. Many varieties bloom in June and July. During flowering, all the forces of the shrub are aimed at providing buds.
During the summer transplant, the suction roots break off and the feeding process is disrupted. The seedling is transplanted to a new place, new roots will not grow, and the old ones will not recover. It turns out that the seedling will live off its reserves in thick roots. Plus, the weather conditions of summer do not allow the young peony to successfully take root, the soil overheats under the rays of the scorching sun, the moisture evaporates quickly.
For your information! After a summer transplant, the seedling will most likely wither in a month, as the new conditions will exhaust it. If the planting material turned out to be strong and survived until autumn, it is unlikely to endure the winter, since its summer and autumn existence was provided from root stocks for wintering.
In autumn
After flowering, the shrub goes into winter preparation mode. The growth of green mass stops in him and the phase of accumulation of nutrition begins. The suction roots actively absorb food and begin to grow again. Renewal buds are already formed and ready for the next season.
It is at this moment that the bush is as ready as possible for division and transplantation into new soil. The roots are nourished with reserves and are ready for winter. After transplanting, they only need 30 days to root. During this period (before frost), they will have time to build up a fine mesh of suction roots.
Therefore, the period should be chosen depending on the climate. For residents of the northern latitudes of Russia, this period is from mid-August to mid-September. Throughout September, peonies can be transplanted to gardeners in the Middle Lane, and the southern regions can wait until early October.
In the matter of autumn replanting, you can be late. At the end of September (for the Middle Lane), young pantry roots are actively growing. They thicken and replenish for winter
It is important to be in time with the landing before this moment, otherwise the division will not overwinter
Important! Autumn is the time when peony transplanting is better and more successful.
Soil preparation
In order for the peonies to start well in a new place and begin to bloom fully, it is important to choose a suitable area for them to place, as well as to prepare the pit correctly and fill it with fertile soil. The most comfortable for plants will be the eastern section, where they will have enough sun.
If you create conditions that prevent drafts, then the flowers will delight with long and beautiful flowering. You should not plant peonies near tall trees, otherwise they will shade them, not giving the necessary sunlight.
An incorrectly chosen place will be the area where water at least sometimes accumulates, because 1-2 days of stagnation of moisture is enough for root decay. If it is not possible to choose the optimal site for the peonies, you need to provide the bush with a good drainage layer so that excess moisture immediately leaves without lingering at the roots. The soil should have an acidity level in the range of 6-6.8 pH and be loamy.
If the soil is compacted, then the peonies stop blooming and develop with difficulty.
In order to prevent such processes, it is important to pre-prepare the soil for transplanting by digging a hole 60-70 cm deep and mixing the optimal soil. Regardless of the type of land and the location of the groundwater, the presence of drainage only benefits flowers
If the soil is heavy, then it must be diluted with coarse river sand and plenty of fertilizer. In the case of sandy loam soil, clay will serve as an additional component.
For transplanting, it is important to ensure high soil fertility and its loose structure so that it is easy for the roots to break through in new conditions. Peonies should not be planted too deep, because they are very sensitive to soil aeration and will not be able to grow normally due to its absence.
If it is possible to achieve optimal conditions, then after changing the location, the peonies will be able to actively develop. Such flowers will reach their maximum development in 4-5 years, delighting with stable and beautiful flowering for another 5 years.
Optimal timing
If there is a need to change the location of the flower bed, you need to know exactly when there is an opportunity to transplant peonies. Spring transplantation is carried out by summer residents and other flower lovers who plant them in clubs near the house or in the country. For this procedure, it is necessary to dig out the bush completely, without dividing it, so that it will quickly begin in the area where it will be moved. After wintering, the root system forms shoots that help speed up the process of acclimatization of the bush in a new flower garden, so the flower manages to take root much sooner. The procedure for changing the place must be carried out within a certain time frame. The starting point can be considered snow melting and warming up to 5-7 degrees.
The process of transplanting a bush to a new place should be carried out by transferring roots in an earthen coma, where they previously grew
It is very important to dig up the plant very carefully without damaging the roots. The soil from the old place should remain on the root system, it does not need to be removed
The bush must be transferred to a new flower bed, correctly positioned in the pit, tied up for the first time, then tamped down and water well. Subsequent care for peonies will not differ from the usual procedures required for these flowers.
If it was not possible to transplant in the spring, then you can do this procedure in August. It is this time period that is most suitable for changing the place of the flower bed. The weather at this moment is stably warm, there is no abundance of precipitation that occurs in autumn. The preparation of the pit should be done in the spring so that it is completely ready in six months. Soil for flowers should consist of earth, which is obtained from a dug hole, sand and compost, which are thoroughly mixed with each other. All this is filled with water. It is recommended to use rainwater that has been previously settled.
The transplant is carried out by digging out the bush with a pitchfork, which will make it possible to gently extract the roots. This procedure is necessary for the safe release of the underground part from the soil. If necessary, you need to plant and thin out the bush. For the full growth of a new plant, the root must have about 6 buds, which will ensure the active growth of the culture after transplantation. Before placing the plant in a new hole, it is well washed and disinfected.
Transplanting in the fall is also common, as is the spring one. This is due to the fact that by the time the work is carried out, the roots have already entered the dormant stage and are easier to tolerate all manipulations. This option involves the preparation of flowers for the next year, so that the awakening process begins in the new flower bed and goes more smoothly. It is the autumn transplant that prepares the peonies to bloom in the spring after waking up. The optimal time frame is September and early October, but the exact time frame will depend on the specific region and its weather conditions. In this case, the pit is dug during the transplantation work.It should not be too deep - 20 cm deep and 40 cm wide will be enough. In the case of dense soil, it must be mixed with sand.
To make the transplantation process simpler, and the bush began to grow more actively in the spring, it is worth shortening the shoots by 10-15 cm. Digging and here should be done with a pitchfork to minimize damage to the root system
It is important to retreat about 20 cm from the bush so as not to injure it in any way. As soon as it is possible to take out the peonies, their roots must be washed, disinfected and evaluated for spoiled, rotten areas and removed.
All work is carried out with processed inventory. After the procedure, the roots are dipped in a potassium permanganate solution for a couple of minutes. Plants are planted in the ground shallowly, this gives more chances to protect their roots from decay and prevent the death of the peony.
Features of caring for peonies after transplantation: 5 rules
Rule 1
Watering
After transplanting, the peony most needs watering.
It is advisable even on warm autumn days, before the onset of frost, it is good to water the transplanted bushes a couple of times.
At the same time, it is important to prevent moisture stagnation in the root zone.
This can threaten root rotting at the site of the cuts or the appearance of other fungal diseases.
For watering, I recommend using settled, not cold water - unnecessary stress to the roots
Rule 2. Mulching
After transplanting and the first watering, the soil should be covered with a layer of mulch.
I always cover with peat, but any mulching material will do.
The main thing is to make a layer thicker for the winter - up to 25 cm or on top of a layer of normal thickness, lay spruce branches.
This must be done as soon as the first frosts come, not earlier
Otherwise, the plant may support a little, and in the spring it will hurt.
Rule 3. Loosening
Once a week, the root circle needs to be loosened.
As a rule, the procedure is carried out after watering so that a hard crust does not form on the surface of the earth, which prevents oxygen from reaching the roots.
Rule 4. Removal of weeds
Peony loves space.
It does not well tolerate close proximity to other horticultural crops and reacts extremely negatively to the appearance of weeds in the root zone.
Usually weeds are removed in the process of loosening - always with the root
Rule 5. Top dressing
The first 1–2 years after transplantation, the peony does not need feeding.
In the third year and beyond, every spring I start to add the mullein dissolved in water (ratio 1:20):
the first time - as soon as the first shoots appear;
the second time - when the buds are tied
In summary, we can say that caring for peonies after transplanting is no different from the usual care of garden crops. The only thing, perhaps, is just to be a little more attentive to the flower, to examine the plant more often for pests and diseases. And remember that the key to good growth and development of a peony is regular care.
How to transplant peonies in the fall to a new place.
For quick adaptation, development and abundant flowering, peonies need to choose a suitable site. Peonies grow well in a place where the sun shines before lunch, and after that the flower is in partial shade. Peonies do not like drafts, so the place needs to be calm. In such conditions, the peony will bloom more abundantly and longer. It is not recommended to plant the plant in places where trees and tall shrubs grow.
A planting hole for a bush is dug out in advance so that the soil has time to settle, and voids do not form between the roots.
A hole for planting is dug 60x80 cm in size. Drainage (sand or broken red brick) is laid at the bottom of the hole in a layer of 15 cm. Then comes the earth (1 bucket) mixed with rotted manure (2 buckets).
The roots are placed in the planting hole so that the root collar is below ground level. The planted peony is sprinkled with small rakes or a hoe, sprinkling the buds with soil.
The landing site cannot be rammed, the soil remains loose for oxygen circulation. After planting, the flowers are watered abundantly.With the arrival of autumn, mulch is laid on top of the soil - peat or rotted manure.
NOTE! To make the peonies grow faster, you can use the drug "Kornevin" according to the instructions.
If the peonies are planted in a straight row, then the distance between the flowers must be observed. The scheme of planting peonies in a new place:
- For low-growing varieties, the distance should be at least 80 cm.
- If the variety is tall, then the distance between flowers is at least 100 cm.
Here are the secrets of how to transplant peonies to a new place in the fall. There is nothing complicated in this. Correctly planted peonies begin to take away a year after planting in a new place of growth. However, in some cases, this period may be increased due to improper fit. The most common reasons are the following:
- a lot of fertilizer was used during planting;
- poor soil;
- not enough sun hits the plant;
- the roots are planted too deep;
- damaged bushes were used.
There can be a large number of reasons. Also, one of the common reasons for the lack of inflorescences is improper watering. After planting, it is necessary to add water every 3-4 days. Up to 1 bucket of water is used per bush.
Planting a peony in open ground
Ideally, pits for peonies are prepared 3-4 months before the intended transplant. The diameter of the planting pit is selected depending on the size of the cut. But since it is impossible to predict the size of the cut in advance, one should start from the standard sizes of the pit. The average diameter of the pit is 40-50 cm, and the depth is 50-60 cm. Large-diameter planting pits are made in order to fill them with nutrient composition.
For fertilization, 20 kg of humus or peat are placed on the bottom of the pit. Also add about 300 g of bone meal or 200 g of superphosphate. Then all this is covered with fertile soil. For clay soils, a bucket of sand is added to the contents, for sandy soil - a bucket of clay.
After applying fertilizers to the planting pit, the soil must be allowed to settle so that the division does not go deep into the ground. If there is no time for shrinkage, you can compact the soil and spill it with water (if it has not rained for the last 7-10 days). The resulting hole should be so deep that the buds of the delenka are 5 cm below ground level. If you plant a peony higher, leaving the buds on the surface or at ground level, they will most likely freeze. If, on the contrary, they are deepened, the peony will not have enough strength to expel the buds to the surface.
When planting, lay the cut on its side so that the plant can form buds on its own.
When planting without tamping the nutrient mixture, plant the peony a little higher, considering that the soil will settle.
Then cover the hole with soil and spill the soil to eliminate the "air voids". After the water has been absorbed, cover the planting area with dry compost.
Given that peonies form a powerful and branched root system, with a solid planting, each plant should be given enough free space. Therefore, the distance from the center of one bush to the center of another should be at least 60-80 cm. The planting site should be well lit and protected from the wind. Peonies should not be planted near the walls of houses and in the shade of trees.
You can learn about the features of spring planting of peonies from our master class.
How to plant peonies in spring - a step-by-step master class with a photo
The spring planting of peonies is not much different from the autumn planting. Although there are still some features ...
