Preparing daylilies for winter
Immediately after flowering, the flower stalks must be removed from the daylily. With the first frosts in October - November, the leaves of semi- and evergreen plants are cut off. As a result, a bush with a height of 10-15 cm should remain. After the final onset of cold weather, daylilies are covered with spruce branches, sawdust, dry leaves or grass. If it suddenly gets very warm on the street, it is better to temporarily remove the shelter so that the flowers do not get blocked.
In regions where the temperature in winter drops to -35 ° C, it is better to dig up the plants and store them in the refrigerator. The rhizomes are preliminarily placed in a moist substrate and wrapped in paper. Store at 1–4 ° C. From time to time, the roots need to be removed from the refrigerator and inspected for the appearance of shoots.
When the sprouts reach 10 cm, they are planted in a pot and temporarily grown as a houseplant. Daylilies are moved to open ground in May, when the threat of frost has passed.
So, only deciduous daylilies do not need winter shelter. To protect recently planted, evergreen and semi-evergreen flowers in the cold, mulching allows.
In conclusion, a small legend about the power of the daylily. To forget all the bitterness, go away sorrows, you need to touch the flowers or leaves of the daylily with your hand at dawn.
Stay with us always!
Preparing the soil for transplanting lilies
It is best to prepare the beds for lilies in the fall. The flowerbed allocated for lily is dug deeply, sand is introduced into the soil, which makes it looser, and if possible, needles or peat are added. If the soil has not been prepared in the fall, it is not too late to do this in the spring, when the earth is dry enough.
Simultaneously with the digging, furrows or holes are prepared for planting lilies. The depth of the furrows for planting large bulbs is about 20 cm, and for smaller ones - 15-10 cm. The bottom of the prepared holes is sprinkled with wood ash, which will serve as a bactericidal agent, make the plants more resistant to diseases and strengthen them.
Choosing a new place in the garden, flowers-neighbors and predecessors
For lilies, the best place is an area sheltered from the wind and midday sun, illuminated in the morning before lunch or in the afternoon until sunset, and the rest of the time scattered rays fall on the flower bed. The soil should be air permeable and not retain moisture; in damp and dense soil, the bulbs will rot.
Good predecessors for lilies are legumes and annuals such as marigolds, calendula, asters. Cannot be planted after perennials, bulbs and crops with succulent rhizomes. They are affected by the same soil fungi.
You should not grow forget-me-nots, hosts, badan or other low-growing crops in the same flowerbed with lilies in order to make the flowerbed constantly blooming and beautiful. The bases of the lily bushes should be blown by the breeze, they do not need to "cover their feet." In addition, when other perennials grow nearby, it will be difficult to dig up the bulbs without disturbing them. Therefore, the best neighbors for lilies are the lilies themselves, plant varieties of different colors and flowering periods, then the flower bed will be in flowers and greenery all season.
The best neighbors of lilies are the lilies themselves
Features of the transplant in each period
Spring
Many summer residents consider spring not very suitable for such an event. Main arguments against:
- with the onset of warm days, when the ground is completely free of snow and dry enough, there are so many cases on the site that there is sorely not enough time for everything.It is necessary to loosen the soil, organize pest control, pruning and whitewashing of fruit trees (shrubs), tweak something, touch up - but you never know there is work for a zealous owner. Doing also a transplant is an additional burden;
- in spring, the soil is too saturated with moisture, and it is its excess that these flowers do not like. Its large concentration in the soil is fraught with rotting of the bulbs. Therefore, transplanting lilies in spring is somewhat risky. It is not a fact that all tubers will give strong sprouts, if they do not begin to rot and die at all;
- for transplanting, you can pick up a dry, convenient place in terms of flower care, for example, on a hill. We will have to change the marking of the territory, and possibly violate the previously drawn up crop rotation scheme. Since the lily is not one of the main crops grown in garden plots, it hardly makes sense to "adapt" to it. In addition, not every dry piece of land is suitable for breeding these, although beautiful, but somewhat capricious flowers. It is necessary to take into account a number of other parameters (more on this below).
Summer autumn
These time periods have a lot in common, and it is better to focus on them for transplanting lilies:
- The soil is well prepared and sufficiently fertilized from the beginning of the summer cottage season.
- The weather, as a rule, is stable and favorable from all points of view - temperature, humidity, amount of precipitation.
- The growth of weeds gradually stops, besides, a good owner practically does not have them on the site.
- Most of the harvest has already been harvested (for example, berries, some vegetables and fruits), and the summer resident has enough free time to do, including, and lilies.
What to focus on
Plants should be transplanted when they are dormant. With regard to lilies - about a month later, as the flowers began to fade.
The appearance of brown spots on the stem of the plant is a sign that this lily needs to be urgently dug up and transplanted, regardless of the month and day of the week. Depending on the degree of damage to the bulb by rot, after carrying out medical procedures, it is either removed for long-term storage, or again placed in the ground, but in a different (previously prepared) place. It is pointless to postpone until later - it is not a fact that such a tuber will subsequently sprout!
Transplant in spring and summer
Question: when to transplant lilies in autumn or spring, it takes many gardeners
If you did not have time to pay attention to the lilies in the fall, then in the spring lilies can also be transplanted and divided, however, for this it is advisable to know exactly what varieties you are growing
These varieties include the snow-white lily, which is widespread in our country (it is better to transplant it in the summer), Canadian lily, curly lily.
Lilies transplanted in spring are likely to flower later than autumn ones, and their bulbs may not have enough time to accumulate enough nutrients for winter, and this will make them weak, less resistant to disease.
But sometimes circumstances are such that you have to take risks.
IMPORTANT! Start digging out the bulbs only when the ground has thawed completely, usually at the end of April.
The transplant technology is otherwise similar to the autumn one. It is imperative to protect new plantings from recurrent late spring frosts.
There is another successful method for transplanting lilies, which is advisable to use if there is a cellar or sufficient space in the refrigerator.
The bulbs are dug up in the fall after ripening, washed, dipped for twenty minutes in a solution of any fungicide for bulbs, dried, wrapped in a soft breathable cloth or moss, placed in a plastic bag with holes and placed in a cool place with a constant temperature of about plus three degrees.
In the spring, when the soil warms up and the threat of recurrent frosts has passed, the bulbs are taken out, examined for damage, healthy ones are selected and planted in the same way as in the fall.The advantage of this planting is the faster growth of shoots and the early onset of flowering.
ATTENTION! Summer transplantation of lilies is recommended for varieties with early flowering, the bulbs of which accumulate nutrients by the beginning of August and sink into a dormant state.
The transplant technology is the same as in the fall.
You can watch one of the possible options for transplanting lilies in the summer in this video:
The variety of available varieties of lilies allows you to choose the most suitable growing conditions and growing technology for your site. Lilies do not cause much trouble to care for and are able to delight us for a long time with their beauty, fragrance and perfection in the garden and in the cut.
Site selection and preparation
For quick adaptation after transplanting, you need to take care of the temperature regime and the composition of the soil. There should be a lot of sunlight; daylilies almost do not bloom in shaded areas. An open place is chosen for the flower bed.
It's important to know! If the flowers are dark, then the shadow will only benefit and retain a rich color. A plant with light petals needs more sun
The bed should not be too low, otherwise the roots will rot. If there is no choice, drainage is used. The earth must be saturated with organic matter. The best soil for daylilies is loam. If the soil is more sandy, then organic fertilizers are applied. It is recommended to loosen dense soil with sand. And too loose soil is compacted with manure.
Bush preparation
In order not to damage the roots, it is necessary to dig in the bush around at a sufficient distance
Next, carefully remove the bush along with the earth. This may require assistance as the bush is heavy.
Then the roots are placed in a solution of a growth stimulator (epin, root, zircon) for 4 hours. Then the plant will take root well.
If there are rotten or dried roots, they are cut off. Then they are placed in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect. The next step is dividing the bush. Every new plant must have at least one root. The damaged areas are covered with charcoal. Then the leaves are cut.
Dividing a bush - a way of reproduction
Note! Daylily after adaptation will quickly restore its leaves
When is it possible and how to properly transplant lilies in the fall to another place?
A competent lily transplant in the fall consists of several correct actions, which we will focus on below:
How to dig it out?
We dig the bush at a distance of at least twenty centimeters from the stem, so as not to damage adult bulbs and not lose children. Cut off the stems, even if they are green. The dug out bulbs must be sorted by size.
This is important not only in order to plant them at the correct distance, but also for planting bulbs of different sizes in different places for easier subsequent care. We carefully examine each onion for any damage
We cleanse from dried and damaged scales. We shorten the roots by about one third in order to more quickly subsequent overgrowth of the bulb with new roots.
The bulbs for transplanting must be absolutely healthy, without damage, without yellow rotting roots.Before planting, it is advisable to hold the prepared bulbs in a special solution of any fungicide or in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for about half an hour.
Place for transfer
The soil for transplanting lilies must be prepared in advance, two to three weeks in advance. It is best to choose a sunny place or partial shade, without close groundwater, preferably with a slight natural slope.
If there are no such conditions, but you really want to admire the lilies, then you should definitely make a special drainage: we dig a trench about forty centimeters deep, of which we allocate fifteen for drainage, consisting of a mixture of sand and gravel in equal proportions. We introduce complete complex fertilizer, ash and humus.
One square meter will require approximately a bucket of humus, two hundred grams of ash and two tablespoons of mineral fertilizer. You can use peat or fallen needles. Mix everything well.
Pour river sand into the prepared hole or trench with a layer of about two centimeters, this will allow the transplanted bulbs to take root faster.
Embedment depth
The standard planting depth for large bulbs is 12-15 centimeters, for smaller ones - 8-10 centimeters.
The exceptions are varieties of lilies with large peduncles, which are planted three to four centimeters deeper, as well as some varieties, for example, the snow-white lily variety, the bulbs of which are planted shallowly, to a depth of no more than three centimeters, so that the tops of the scales are at the soil surface.
It is advisable to plant the children in a specially designated area to a depth of no more than five centimeters.
ATTENTION! It is useful for a novice florist to remember that it is better to plant the bulb shallower than to deepen it too deep.
An overly buried bulb has a risk of rotting, especially if the groundwater is close and stagnant. A shallow-planted bulb has a risk of freezing, but, firstly, it is not so great, and, secondly, bulbs tend to self-deepen in search of the most optimal germination conditions.
Landing distance
The distance between plantings depends on how you like to contemplate flowering plants more - in curtains or in rows.
In the first case, the optimal distance will be 25-30 centimeters, in the second, there should be at least 25 centimeters between the rows, at least 10 centimeters between the bulbs in the groove.
Correct completion of the transplant
In the prepared hole or trench, we make a mound for each plant, on which we put the bulb, after straightening the roots, and sprinkle it with sand on top. You should get a sand bag in which the bulb will be insured against sticking and decay in case of prolonged rainy weather.
After planting a hole or trench, fill it with earth and water it. It will be great if you mulch the soil two to four centimeters, which will provide the planting with additional oxygen. For the winter period, planting should be covered with spruce branches or fallen leaves of healthy trees.
ATTENTION! For lilies with a shallow planting depth, it is imperative to carry out additional insulation using any covering material.
With this method of planting and favorable weather conditions, lilies will bloom in the first summer.
Features of seasonal transplant
When can daylilies be divided and planted? The answer is very simple: when the need arises.
Daylilies tolerate transplanting at any time of the year, except for snowy and frosty winters.
Well preparation
For your information! The transplant can be combined with reproduction.
Transplant in the fall
When transplanting a daylily in autumn, it is important to choose the right timing, since:
- the bush needs time to take root before frost;
- Planting too early will prevent the plant from recovering from flowering and storing nutrients.
Note! Plants take root for at least 3 weeks. The advantage of an autumn transplant is the ability to choose suitable plants
In the fall, flower buds appear on the bush, they are clearly visible and it is easy to avoid damage during transplantation.
The advantage of an autumn transplant is the ability to choose suitable plants. In the fall, flower buds appear on the bush, they are clearly visible and during transplantation it is easy to avoid damage to them.
The updated daylily will bloom for the next season.
Nuances of summer transplant
Before you transplant the daylily in the summer, you need to remember some rules that will help the bush to survive the "move" comfortably.
Summer transplanting has almost no effect on the well-being of the bush. At the same time, you must try not to disturb the root system of the plant, pulling it out with a clod of earth. You should confine yourself to simple pruning of rotten roots and sprinkle the cuts with ash. It is not recommended to divide the bush in the summer.
At high air temperatures, it is better not to touch the daylily. The transplant is carried out in cloudy weather or in the evening.
Important! When there is an opportunity to transplant daylilies in spring or autumn, it is better to abandon the summer procedure.
Spring transplantation of bushes
The advantage of a spring transplant is that delenki with a developed root system begin to bloom in the same year, and their survival rate is high. An undeveloped root system will allow the bush to bloom only next year.
When asked about the timing of the daylily transplant, when it is better to do this, preference is given to spring work. Their plus is that the seedling has a lot of time in stock for settling in a new place.
The division of the bushes is carried out with sufficient heating of the soil, this is the end of April - the beginning of May. The shovel should go into the ground with a bayonet to easily dig out the rhizome of the entire bush. After inspection, the rhizome is divided into parts, slightly shortening healthy roots and cutting out rotten ones. The resulting seedlings can be stored for up to a month before planting.
Transplanting a flowering daylily
When the daylily is in bloom, it can be transplanted. When transplanting, a flowering plant will get stressed in any case. To alleviate its condition, the daylily should be watered abundantly, and then dug out with a large clod of earth, in no case dividing it into divisions. On a new site, the bush is covered, for example, with lutrasil for 2 weeks, and the soil moisture is maintained.
For guaranteed rooting, you will have to sacrifice stems and peduncles. They take a lot of strength from the bush, leaving no vital energy for rooting. The stems are cut, departing from the root collar by 15 cm.
The appearance of young leaves means that the plant has taken root in a new place.
When and how to transplant a daylily depends on the climatic factor, the need for the procedure and the wishes of the gardener.
