How to transplant an azalea at home correctly: when you can do it, step by step instructions, as well as care and photo of an indoor flower

Choosing a capacity

Do not assume that transplanting into a large pot is the best option for a flower. The choice of capacity must be approached as responsibly as the procedure itself.

In this case, all trace elements remain in the soil. When the container is small, due to lack of space, the root system actively absorbs vitamins and minerals, thereby the leaves receive the necessary nutrition.

It is better to use new pots, and if this is not possible, then thorough disinfection allows you to get rid of pathogens and mold. The wooden container will need not only be processed, but also sterilized with steam, you can scald it with boiling water.

Any design solution can be purchased in a good store. Containers are made of wood, plastic, clay. The sizes and shapes are different.

After purchasing a new container, it must be left in water for half an hour. This prevents soil and dust from clogging the pores in the material. If this is not done, then there will be insufficient oxygen in the soil, and it is extremely important.

For large palms and trees, it is better to choose a wooden container made of solid wood. Perfectly fits:

Birch;
beech;
oak.

It also happens that the manufacturer did not provide drainage holes at the bottom. They will need to be drilled out.

Without holes, moisture will accumulate in the soil. Its excess leads to the formation of putrefactive processes in the root system.

Preparatory work

First, dishes for the flower, drainage and soil for the anthurium are selected.

Flower pot

Pay attention to the material of the flowerpot. The dishes must maintain the same temperature of the potting medium and the ambient air.

In this regard, plastic and glass containers are well suited.

A clay container is only useful if it is glazed from the inside. In a simple clay container, the surface of the walls is covered with pores, the flower will begin to grow roots into them. When the time comes for transplanting, this cannot be done without trauma to the roots.

The shape of the flowerpot needs to be wide and shallow, it is necessary for the drainage of water. Drainage holes should be provided at the bottom.

In a wide container, the plant will not be able to quickly master the entire area. In free soil, pathogenic flora will begin to develop. Each next flowerpot should be 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. A pot with a diameter of 24-32 cm is enough for an adult plant. With each transplant, the depth of the pot is increased.

If the purpose of the transplant is children and side shoots, then a spacious container is taken, but the culture will not bloom. When they want a beautiful flowering, they use cramped dishes.

Important! A new flower pot is disinfected with laundry soap, poured over with boiling water

Priming

The condition for the decorativeness of a flower is the correct substrate. The soil for exotic anthurium must meet the following requirements:

acid balance pH 5.5-6.5;
the substrate holds moisture well;
dries easily;
allows air to pass through.

Novice florists want to know what kind of land is needed to grow anthurium. The soil requires light, but capable of holding an adult plant. The drainage layer should be half the size of the pot so that the water can drain off easily. In this case, the roots are not threatened with decay.

Important! Bark, coal, expanded clay are added to the soil for air permeability. Epiphytes can grow in a container with moss and bark, but then they will have to be constantly fed

The agricultural pavilions sell potting mixes for all indoor greenhouse plants. But what kind of ready-made soil is suitable for anthurium - the answer is from experts in exotic plants.There are no special types of soil for the crop. There are compositions for orchids and all aroids. Universal primers for home floriculture, which are sold in agricultural firms, are not suitable. They need to be diluted with peat, sphagnum moss, expanded clay, so that the soil does not compact.

The soil for anthurium should be loose

You can prepare the soil mixture yourself in the following proportion:

peat, leaf and coniferous land, river sand (1: 1: 1: 0.5). Improve with charcoal, coniferous bark;
leaf and sod land, sphagnum moss (2: 1: 1);
peat, pine bark, expanded clay (1: 1: 1);
peat, leafy soil, sphagnum moss (3: 1: 1). Improve with broken brick, coarse sand, charcoal;
peat, moss, pine bark, perlite (1: 1: 1: 1). The composition is suitable for young plants.

The soil is pressed with your hands so that it fits snugly to the roots for better nutrition. As they grow, the roots become bare, protrude above the surface. They are covered with wet moss and peat.

Important! Before planting a flower in a new soil, it is relieved of pathogenic microflora: it is frozen, ignited in the oven, steamed in a water bath

Anthurium transplant

The transplant is carried out within the average rules for greenhouse crops.

How to transplant anthurium at home, the process is step by step:

The flower is watered abundantly, allowed to stand for 15-20 minutes, so that the earthen lump is soaked.
Take the bush by the stems closer to the soil.
The plant is removed along with the ground.
Roots are revised: rotten and sick ones are cut off, and healthy ones are treated with phytolavin.
The bush is placed in the center of the container, earth is poured on the sides.
Watered with settled water.
Placed in a pre-selected warm place. Drafts and direct sunlight are contraindicated.

Note! The pots are filled with soil with care. It contains pieces of bark, stones, sod. These elements are pushed with a stick, trying not to damage the roots

The pot is tapped several times on the walls so that the soil lays down evenly. Crumpled with fingers

These elements are pushed with a stick, trying not to damage the roots. The pot is tapped several times on the walls so that the soil lays down evenly. Crumpled with fingers.

Care

To grow anthurium at home, you need to understand that you will have to take care of it carefully. Otherwise, for the sake of which it was acquired - flowering, it will not happen.

Since the flower is native to the tropics, it loves warmth. A comfortable temperature for him in the summer is 22-28 degrees. In winter, it is kept within 15-20. It is necessary to create a "winter sleep" for the plant, even if it is summer outside all year round. At this time, the kidneys are tied. As soon as they are laid, you can return to warmth again.

Direct sunlight is detrimental to anthurium, again due to the fact that it comes from tropical forests. It is better to grow it in diffused and dim light. Ultraviolet light will burn the leaves. It is more expedient to display containers on the east or north-west windows. If they are absent, choose a shady place a meter from the window. In winter, you can place the anthurium on a south-facing window. In addition, a phytolamp should be placed next to it, since the plant needs 12-hour daylight hours, and in winter there is not enough light.

The cultivation of tropical exotic plants is characterized by a certain level of humidity. It is necessary to monitor this indicator, avoiding excesses. Excessive moisture will cause rotting of the root system, dryness - death. It is better to put a container with a flower in a tray, into which wet pebbles are poured. Leaves are advised to slightly moisten from a spray bottle or wipe with a damp cloth. The room where tropical plants are located is equipped with an air humidifier, where the mode is set to 80%. You can simply put a bucket of water next to the pot, thus providing the necessary moisture.

The watering regime at home is as follows:

in summer, no more than 2-3 times a week;
weekly in winter.

For the procedure, purified distilled water is used, since the liquid saturated with salts is very hard. If you take liquid from the water supply, then it must be defended. Then, when watering, only the upper layers are used, since settled impurities usually accumulate in the lower ones. Citric acid is sometimes added to soften the water.

The flower needs to be fed with vitamins and fertilizers twice a year, then it will regularly delight its owners. The procedure is carried out in spring and summer. Fertilize it twice a month. In the spring vegetative period, the plant grows its greenery. We need to help him and feed him with products with a high nitrogen content. Starting in May, fertilizers saturated with phosphorus will be required. Additives are poured under the root, and then the soil is spilled with water.

What land to transplant "male happiness"? Compositions and types of soil

Anthurium needs a loose and well-drained slightly acidic (pH-5.5-6.5) soil with a sufficient amount of nutrients, into which air penetrates well.

In nature, the flower grows initially on a tree or eventually passes on to it (epiphyte - Andre, Scherzer and Khrustalny). Therefore, it can absorb substances from the forest floor, and the roots need free access to air.

Potting mix components

For home preparation of land for transplanting, it is necessary to use various components in the correct ratio.

The basis of the soil for "male happiness" can be ordinary high-moor peat (low-lying peat - not!). If it is not on sale, then you can take any universal soil with a slightly acidic reaction, for example, for flowering species.
To increase looseness and lightness, the base must be supplemented with the following components: chopped pine bark or chips, sphagnum, charcoal (saves roots from decay) and a little coconut fiber.
To prevent stagnant water that leads to root rot, use vermiculite or perlite, and if not, then coarse sifted and calcined sand.

Potting mix and additional components

Compositions of land for transplanting anthurium

High peat and pine bark - 1: 1. A simple potting mix, but be careful with watering so that there is no excess moisture.
High peat, pine bark and perlite - 2: 0.5: 0.5. Suitable soil, many growers use it.
Leafy, coniferous soil, high-moor peat - 1: 1: 1 + 0.5 mixture of pine bark, charcoal and perlite (sand). A land close to ideal, it is often advised by experts in botanical gardens.
Leafy soil, high moor peat, perlite (sand) - 1: 1: 0.5 + 0.5 pine bark, sphagnum or charcoal. The same composition, in case there is no coniferous soil.

Sod land is not suitable for "male happiness", because it can clog the pores of the roots and deprive access to air.

What ready-made soil can be bought?

For anthurium, the soil for aroids (plant family) is excellent.

The company "Biomaster" produces in the following composition: agroperlite, charcoal, sand and sphagnum. It is sold in many stores, you can transplant it without changes, or if there is, then add a little high peat.

There is also a special ready-made soil for epiphytes, in particular the Polesskiy soil: coconut fiber, coniferous bark, sand, peat and chips.

Soil for aroid

Modifications to "store" mixtures

Soil for azaleas (composition: lowland and high-moor peat, humus, cow compost). It must be mixed with equal proportions with pine bark, sphagnum and small expanded clay.
Soil for begonias (formulations vary from manufacturer to manufacturer). General recommendation: two parts mixture, one part (chopped bark and sphagnum).
Soil for orchids (different compositions, components and quality from different companies), but in 99% of cases, "male happiness" cannot be transplanted into it in pure form. There are few nutrients in it, and the bark must be chopped up.It is better to mix one part of the prepared soil with one part of high peat and 0.5 part of sphagnum or perlite.

How to properly transplant azalea indoors

Many people are interested in how to properly transplant an azalea at home. To do this, you need to prepare the correct pot and soil.

Selection and preparation of soil

Azalea needs soil with high acidity parameters

Therefore, it is important to find the right substrate for the plant. It should be loose enough and allow air to flow well to the root system.

To maintain the desired parameters, the plant must be periodically watered with a citric acid solution.

It is best to make the soil with your own hands. To do this, you need to take the following ingredients in a 2: 1: 1: 1: 1 ratio:

special substrate for azaleas;
small tree bark;
fresh or dry sphagnum moss;
fine sand;
charcoal and vermiculite.

You can also mix coniferous soil, peat and sand in a 2: 1: 1 ratio. No less effective will be a composition based on pine needles, high peat, sand and leafy earth. They are mixed in a ratio of 2: 3: 1: 1.

The prepared substrate must be watered with a special agent - "Fitosporin" and its analogues. You can also process the mixture in the oven or steam it over boiling water.

Important! Untreated soil can be a source of pests or fungi that will infest your crop. Therefore, the substrate must be disinfected.

Do-it-yourself azalea soil

Pot selection

The choice of a pot for an azalea is of great importance. It should not be very large in order for the roots to feel as comfortable as possible. It is best to choose a container 2 cm larger than the previous one. This will help the root system settle down faster and minimize the risk of soil flooding.

It is desirable that the pot has low edges and is wide enough. The root system of the plant is characterized by horizontal development, therefore it requires optimal conditions.

The pot material can be anything. Plastic or ceramics are great. However, natural capacity is still more preferable. There should be drainage holes at the bottom to remove excess moisture.

Renewal root pruning

Carrying out sanitary pruning has a good effect on the state of the culture. To begin with, a flower with a lump of soil must be removed from the pot. It must be inspected for external damage and dead fragments removed.

You should not try to separate a dense lump of earth with your hands. This can cause root damage. Before pruning, they must be soaked in a warm solution of "Zircon". Then you can do the refreshing pruning. To do this, the roots on each side should be cut by 1-1.5 cm.

Roots need to be cut a little before transplanting.

Splitting an azalea

By dividing the bush, the plant you like is propagated. Also, the procedure can be carried out due to the impressive size of the bush. How to plant an azalea at home?

To do this, you need to carefully remove the flower from the pot, examine the roots and, if necessary, cut off diseased or dry fragments. The earthen lump must be cut into several fragments.

Important! Each fragment must have at least 1 shoot. Each plant needs an individual pot

Planting in another pot

The step-by-step process of planting a plant looks like this:

A 3 cm thick drainage layer is poured at the bottom of the container. It should consist of small stones.
On top you need to put chips, sand or pine bark. The thickness of this layer should be 2 cm.
Then sprinkle the layer with "Trichodermin", which helps to avoid the development of fungi and rot.
Pour soil on top and distribute evenly over the container.
Remove the azalea from the dish with the growth stimulant solution, squeeze out a lump of earth a little and let the liquid drain.
Place in the center of the prepared soil.
Pour fresh soil around the azalea. At the same time, the root collar of the culture must not be affected.
Gently add soil on the sides and compact it slightly.
Water the soil a little with the solution in which the roots were soaked.

Important! After transplanting, it is forbidden to water the bush abundantly. The root system dries more slowly than the earth, therefore there is a risk of root rot

Care after the procedure

After transplanting, the plant should be cared for more thoroughly than usual. At this time, anthuriums need gentle conditions of detention, allowing them to recover faster.

To facilitate the adaptation of gentle exotics after transplantation, attention should be paid to the following care nuances:

watering;
top dressing;
optimal lighting;
suitable air temperature;
suitable air humidity.

Watering

Watering the transplanted plant must be very careful. Practice shows that even with the most gentle transplant, the fragile roots of anthuriums are often injured and become more sensitive to conventional procedures.

Watering is recommended more abundant than usual, but the water should not stagnate in the pot. If water accumulates in a pot or sump, the excess must be drained. The need for alternate watering is determined based on the state of the earthen coma. If the substrate is dry on top, you need to water the plant.

Top dressing

In the first month after transplanting, feeding should be abandoned. If the roots of the anthurium are damaged during the procedure, feeding can worsen their condition. Moreover, there is no need for fertilization after transplanting, and for the reason that there are enough nutrients in the new substrate.

Optimal illumination

After transplanting, the plant needs a lot of soft and diffused light. Poor illumination, as well as direct sunlight, these gentle exotics endure painfully. It is best to place anthurium pots on windows in the east or west of the house. If there is a lack of natural light, flowers should be illuminated with a phytolamp or fluorescent lamp.

Air temperature

The exotic origin of anthuriums determines their increased requirements for the ambient temperature. Plants will recover faster after transplanting if the temperature in the room where they grow is maintained at a stable temperature of 25 °. In winter, the temperature can be lowered slightly. Sharp temperature changes should not be allowed, since they are destructive for tropical plants.

Air humidity

The tropics and subtropics, which are the natural habitat of anthuriums, are characterized by high air humidity. After transplanting, these exotic plants will be able to adapt and recover faster if the air in the room is saturated with moisture. You can cope with this task with a household humidifier. If there is no such device, a wide pan or container with water should be installed next to the anthuriums. Also, regular spraying with warm, settled water will allow maintaining optimal air humidity.

For the secrets of transplanting anthurium, see the video below.

Winter care for azaleas

Future flowering depends on the care of the azaleas throughout the year, as well as how the plant overwinters. Certain varieties of garden rhododendrons can survive Russian winters without shelter, but in this case it will not work to guarantee the health of the shrub:

Flower buds at the ends of the shoots are the first to suffer from the cold.
With a lack of snow, sometimes not only young branches but also the root system freeze out.

To protect the plants, autumn starts preparing for winter with abundant watering of the soil under the bushes of garden azaleas. Then the root circle is covered with an additional layer of mulch, for which pine needles, peat or fallen leaves are taken. A layer of such protection for small plants can be 5-10 cm, up to 30 cm of insulation is poured under tall bushes.

Branches of deciduous varieties of azaleas growing in open ground:

gently tilt to the soil;
fixed with wire;
covered with corrugated cardboard, special materials or another layer of spruce branches or peat.

It is not worth covering azaleas with foil or other airtight materials, since there is a high risk of developing rotting and rotting buds and young shoots.

Azalea evergreens are covered with a pre-made frame so as not to damage the shoots and future buds. Inside the shelter, the plant should not be constrained. And it is necessary to insulate the structure with roofing felt or non-woven materials only in the established cool weather, if this is done on warm days, next spring it will not be possible to avoid the loss of some of the flowers.

Caring for azaleas in winter is to protect plants from wind and moisture condensing during thaws. If the winter is with little snow, the bushes need to be additionally protected by creating man-made snowdrifts at their base. During the rainy season, azaleas are loosely covered with a film, leaving the possibility of moisture escape.

During acclimatization and care of azaleas, they are constantly monitored to avoid sunburn of delicate tissues and wilting of the plant lacking nutrition and moisture.

Garden azaleas are a rewarding culture. Shrubs always respond with lush flowering and growth to adhere to the agrotechnology of growing azaleas in the garden and competent, regular care. No matter where the gardener lives, today you can find many amazing varieties of azaleas that have different colors and different flowering times.

How to determine if it is needed?

A number of objective, visually identifiable signs allow to determine that a capricious exotic needs a transplant. The severity of these signs depends on the nature and characteristics of the reason due to which the plant requires a change in the substrate and pot.

The root ball has become larger than the substrate coma.

If the root system of the plant has outgrown the volume of the existing pot and, as a result, the earthy coma, it will begin to break out of the container. In this case, the aerial roots of anthurium will germinate above the surface of the substrate, striving to go beyond the pot. Very often, with a strong growth of the root system, you can see individual roots that have penetrated through the drainage holes at the bottom of the tank. All these signs are signals for an urgent plant transplant.

Incorrectly selected substrate.

The exotic origin of anthuriums determines their increased requirements for the composition and quality of the substrate. The aerial roots of these exotics do not tolerate heavy, dense soils and soils with a high clay content. Fertile garden soil and universal soil, to which many indoor plants are very favorably disposed, are not suitable for them.

Too dense soil in the pot squeezes the roots of the plant, disrupting its metabolism and vital processes. As a result, the anthurium takes on a sluggish and painful appearance, and then dies altogether.

The fact that the substrate used is not suitable for the gentle exotic is evidenced by its gradual wilting, accompanied by yellowing and drying of the leaves.

Soil depletion

If a sufficient amount of time has passed since the last transplantation (more than 1–3 years), depletion of the soil mixture is not excluded. Any plant - especially one that is actively developing - draws strength for its growth from the resources of the substrate. The more intensively the flower develops, the faster its soil mixture is depleted and becomes unusable.

The fact that the substrate has completely exhausted its supply of nutrient resources is evidenced by a sudden stop in the growth and development of the plant. At the same time, it can retain the glossy shine and beautiful shape of its foliage, but anthurium will not form new stems, leaves and flowers. Also, the depletion of the soil mixture is indicated by such a sign in which the young leaves of the exotic cannot acquire the same size as the old ones. This indicates that the plant objectively lacks resources to enlarge young foliage while simultaneously supporting old and mature leaves.

Diseases and damage by pests

If an exotic plant has suffered from pathogenic bacteria or fungi, or has been attacked by pests, it can be transplanted in any season. An emergency transplant in this case will allow you to preserve a sensitive exotic, even if it has been badly damaged. Delay in transplanting and processing a sick anthurium here is fraught with its death and infection of healthy plants in the vicinity.

In addition, transplantation is required for anthurium in cases of the formation of a strange plaque on the surface of the substrate. These can be lumpy, dirty gray or dirty yellow formations, a fluffy gray-green coating or markings of a dark brown or black color. If the surface of the soil mixture in a pot with anthurium began to become covered with suspicious growths or plaque, it is necessary to immediately transplant the plant and replace the substrate.

In this case, the contaminated container is either thoroughly disinfected or replaced with a new pot.