Gloxinia (sinningia)

Gloxinia after flowering - what to do with the plant

How to care for gloxinia after flowering can tell experienced owners of green spaces. During this period, you need to properly prepare the plant for wintering. This procedure consists of several steps that must be followed in order for the tuber to safely survive a long hibernation.

Pruning

It is not recommended to cut the rosette immediately after the last flowers have faded. It is necessary to preserve metabolic processes in plant tissues, due to which nutrients from the leaves are transferred to the tuber.

Subsequently, the shoots will begin to wither themselves, and then you need to cut off the outlet, but leave a small stump 2 cm high. As a result, when it also dries up, it must be carefully unscrewed from the tuber.

Important! Pruning gloxinia immediately after flowering will stimulate shoot growth, which will significantly weaken the plant. In young seedlings, the rosette remains throughout the winter. This is due to the fact that their tubers are underdeveloped and are not yet able to survive the winter without additional nutrition.

Therefore, it is impossible to cut off the aerial part from them, otherwise they will never come out of hibernation.

This is due to the fact that their tubers are underdeveloped and are not yet able to survive the winter without additional nutrition. Therefore, it is impossible to cut off the aerial part from them, otherwise they will never come out of hibernation.

In young seedlings, the rosette remains throughout the winter. This is due to the fact that their tubers are underdeveloped and are not yet able to survive the winter without additional nutrition. Therefore, it is impossible to cut off the aerial part from them, otherwise they will never come out of hibernation.

In this case, you need to provide the plant with full care, which consists in a 12-hour daylight hours and regular watering.

Restorative feeding

What else should you do when gloxinia fades? Before the plant goes into hibernation, it is necessary to restore the spent strength. For this, it is recommended to fertilize with potash fertilizers. This will allow the tuber to fully ripen and make a supply of nutrients that will be required for 3-4 months of hibernation.

Experienced flower growers recommend using potassium monophosphate for this. To prepare a nutrient solution, you need to dissolve 5 g of the product in 2 liters of settled water. After that, mix thoroughly until the components are completely dissolved. Water the plants with the resulting liquid at the rate of 150 ml per 1 pot.

Important! Fertilizers with a high nitrogen content cannot be used during this period, since they stimulate the growth of the aerial part, which negatively affects the immunity of gloxinia. Restorative dressing is applied one-time, immediately after the removal of all faded buds, but in the presence of leaves. Restorative dressing is applied one-time, immediately after the removal of all faded buds, but in the presence of leaves

Restorative dressing is applied one-time, immediately after the removal of all faded buds, but in the presence of leaves.

Drying of the outlet is a sign of gloxinia preparation for hibernation

Preparing the plant for hibernation

Caring for gloxinia after flowering at home also consists in observing certain conditions of detention. Starting in September, the flower pot must be moved to a less lit place. In this case, the temperature should be lowered to +15 degrees. When kept in such conditions, watering should also be reduced to 1 time per week.

All this in a complex stimulates the process of wilting of the rosette and prepares the plant for the upcoming hibernation.

If this is not done, then some varieties of gloxinia can continue to grow. As a result, the shoots stretch out, the rosette is deformed, and the plant loses its decorative effect. All of this weakens the flower and can be the reason for the lack of flowering in the next season.

Important! Gloxinia, like many tuberous plants, requires a prolonged cool dormancy period for bud formation.

Transfer

Gloxinia should be repotted regularly, because the old soil does not suit it after a year of growth. She needs fresh and fertile soil

When transplanting, pay attention to where the bottom of the tuber is so as not to plant it upside down. Typically, the underside is more convex, smoother and rounded, while the upper side has a slight indentation. So that the plant does not have rotting tubers, it is imperative to place a drainage layer in the planting container

So that the plant does not have rotting tubers, it is imperative to place a drainage layer in the planting container.

For it you can use:

• Pebbles.
• Styrofoam.
• Expanded clay.
• Pieces of pottery.

This layer takes 1-2 cm. The substrate is poured on top and is not compacted very much, it should be quite loose. A depression is made in the center of the pot and the tuber is placed there. Further, it is sprinkled with earth on the sides so that it is in the ground by 2/3 of its height. That is, the top of the tuber remains open. This must be done because the leaves of the flower appear earlier than the roots.

Then you need to create a micro greenhouse. To do this, put a transparent bag on the pot and place it in a bright and warm place. Thanks to this, moisture is retained, so no watering is needed. The ground should be slightly moist, even a slight drying of the top layer of the soil is permissible.

Airing should be carried out, for this, once a day, you need to remove the bag for 15-20 minutes. When the first leaves appear, the bag is closed only for the night, and after 2-3 days it is removed altogether

After germination of the tuber for the first time, watering should be done carefully, in small portions, so as not to flood it. After all, the root system is not yet sufficiently developed.

It is important to remember that after planting gloxinia develops the aerial part faster than the roots.

The planting depth of the nodule is of great importance. It must be completely in the substrate. If the top remains unsprayed, then this part may become rotten, thereby damage to the plant.

4-6 weeks after transplanting, top dressing is started in order for the plant to develop healthy and fully bloom. Fertilize gloxinia with kemira lux. This powder fertilizer is diluted as follows: 1 coffee spoon for two liters of water and then watered on moistened soil 2-3 times a month. It is not very easy to grow, care for and transplant gloxinia at home, but, observing all the rules of care, you can enjoy its magical flowering.

Diseases and pests

Late blight is a fungal disease that occurs when water stagnates in the sump, too dense soil, excessive air humidity, and also at low temperatures during the growing season.

Fusarium is also a fungal disease that occurs with excess moisture, lack of water and fertilizers. The leaves wither, curl, acquiring a brown color. It is worth treating the plant with fungicides and transplanting it into fresh soil.

Gray rot. Its development can provoke waterlogging of the earth. The stem begins to turn black, and a gray bloom and brown spots appear on the flowers and leaves. It is advisable to remove the affected areas of the tuber, and treat the rest with fungicides and transplant into new soil.

Quite rarely, but it happens that gloxinia is attacked by such pests as:

• a spider mite appears on synningia if the room has enough dry air and a lack of moisture. For prevention, increase the humidity in the room, and isolate the infected plant from the rest.Treatment is carried out with acaricides, and the soil is treated with drugs such as Temik or Aldicarb.
• cyclamen tick. If you notice deformed thickened leaves covered with a layer of dust, then this particular pest has visited your plant. For treatment, it is recommended to use acaricides from ticks.

Planting or transplanting gloxinia tuber (step by step)

Towards the end of February, gloxinia tubers wake up. This is exactly the time when they need to be transplanted or planted in a new flower pot. The stores also actively sell gloxinia tubers and seeds. But there are no flowering plants there yet.

Sometimes I admit the next awakening of the gloxinia tuber in the same pot without transplanting. The plant itself will tell you when it needs to be transplanted into new soil.

Leave Gloxinia to Grow in the Same Pot

In front of me is a pot in which a young sprout of gloxinia has appeared. This suggests that the tuber overwintered successfully and began to sprout.

Velvety leaves of young shoots seem to be perfect

It is important not to spoil them by pampering them in the warmth and spoiling them with top dressing. It is more correct to create Spartan conditions for them by moving the pot on the windowsill closer to the glass

And so that the plant does not overcool, I put the pot with it on a foam support (for example, on a packing trough or on any block of foam).

Here are pictures that clearly show how a young shoot of gloxinia grows. Until recently (in winter) the tuber was not even visible.

I wrote about how he feels during the rest period in the article "How to keep the gloxinia tuber in winter?" At the end of February (sometimes later) his awakening begins, which cannot be missed.

The price of an oversight is frail, elongated shoots (at best) or the death of a plant from drying out of the tuber (at worst).

Transplanting (planting) gloxinia in a new container

This year I bought new gloxinia tubers. Terribly shaggy due to the remnants of old roots. First of all, the tubers had to be "shaved". Tear off some of the dried roots with your hands, and cut off some with nail scissors. Sawdust and shavings, in which the purchased tubers were stored, were shaken out and removed with tweezers.

Tubers prepared for planting should be as bare as possible (almost like a potato tuber) and strong, not flabby. I have heard and read that it can be confused where the top of the tuber is, and where is its bottom. In order not to plant gloxinia "upside down", you need to leave that part of the tuber on top where there is a small depression. At the bottom, there will be a more rounded, and sometimes convex part.

Those tubers sold in stores usually already have tiny sprouts or seedling makings. Therefore, there are no problems.

It is best to plant such tubers in moist soil and water as it dries. Then there will be a gradual return to life. It is hardly worth "conjuring" over completely unviable tubers.

Unless, of course, these are not particularly valuable plants.

When planting tubers, it is better to use less bulky pots. The bottom part is occupied by drainage. I use expanded clay or charcoal, which remains after sifting wood ash. The depth of the drainage layer allows you to somewhat regulate the volume of the pot.

Some amateur growers leave the top of the gloxinia tuber above the soil level. I almost completely cover it with earth, but I do not cover the shoots. This imposes a number of obligations on me: when watering, you must not soak the upper part of the tuber.

It is worth mentioning what the soil mixture should be. First of all, loose and nutritious. I add hydrogel granules to it so that there are no problems with drying out. It is advisable to take into account one "cute" detail: the soil, for the first time enlarged in size from the swollen hydrogel, rises noticeably and tends to crawl out of the pot. It either has to be tamped lightly or all the excess has to be removed.

At the very end, you need to sign the variety and put the pot with the newly transplanted (planted) gloxinia on the windowsill. As soon as a strong sprout appears, the pot can be moved closer to the glass.

A source

Possible difficulties

Quite often, flower growers are faced with the problems of growing gloxinia. Here are several options for difficulties and their solutions:

1. If suddenly your plant began to stretch, then a lack of light or an excessive amount of nitrogen fertilizers affects.
2. If the sinningia began to grow more slowly and the flowers began to curl, then the problem is a draft, cold wintering, abundant watering or low air temperature.
3. Leaves turn yellow - excessive watering or lack of nitrogen fertilization.
4. Watering gloxinia with too hard water can cause leaf chlorosis.
5. Direct sunlight negatively affects foliage, leaving burns on it.
6. Rolling leaves indicates that the room is dry and hot.
7. If the flower lacks phosphorus, then the leaves turn red.
8. The lack of flowering may be due to an excess of nitrogen fertilization.

If you take proper care of your Brazilian beauty, she will delight the eye with a bright and rich bouquet.

Gloxinia with its appearance is able to revive the interior of any room. This is possible thanks to the colors that resemble the pipes of a gramophone and differ in a variety of colors. In order for a green pet to please for a long time, it needs to be transplanted periodically - most often this is done at the end of winter.

Preparing for transplant

When moving a flower from one pot to another, it is important to first figure out how to transplant gloxinia correctly. Compliance with basic requirements will avoid many problems

Pot selection

When choosing a planting container for gloxinia, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the root system of the flower. The roots diverge to the sides of the tuber, so it is recommended to pick up a low, but wide pots. The depth of the pot should allow it to accommodate the drainage layer needed by the flower

The depth of the pot should be sufficient to accommodate the drainage layer required by the flower.

Of all materials, it is better to choose ceramics

The depth of the pot should be sufficient to accommodate the drainage layer needed by the flower. Of all the materials, it is better to choose ceramics.

Important! Before planting, the container should be washed, dried and disinfected.

The flower feels most comfortable in a low wide pots

Selection and preparation of soil

The soil for indoor gloxinia needs light, loose, air and moisture permeable. Its acidity should be neutral so as not to provoke rotting of tubers. Of the universal ready-made mixtures, soil for violets is most suitable.

The soil mixture can be prepared independently from sand, leaf and peat soil in proportions of 1: 2: 2. The soil should be disinfected by subjecting it to heat treatment.

Drainage

The delicate tubers of flower gloxinia need a drainage layer. As components for it, you can use:

• expanded clay or pebbles;
• ceramic shards;
• Styrofoam.

If you choose a pot that is too deep, the height of the drainage layer will help compensate for this deficiency.

Tuber preparation

Preparing gloxinia for moving into a new planter begins with a thorough examination of the tubers. Dry roots are removed from them and washed in water, cleaning off the remnants of the soil, after which it becomes possible to assess the condition of the tissues.

All parts of tubers that look unhealthy are removed with a sharp, disinfected knife. Slices are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon or any fungicide. The tuber treated in this way is left in the open air until the next day.

Note! Root tubers, which look sluggish, are recommended to be wrapped in a damp cloth for 3 days so that they are nourished.If at the time of transplanting the tuber still has not sprouted, but looks healthy, it is placed in a plastic bag with peat soil and left in a sufficiently warm and lighted place. If at the time of transplanting the tuber still has not sprouted, but looks healthy, it is placed in a plastic bag with peat soil and left in a sufficiently warm and lighted place.

If at the time of transplanting the tuber still has not sprouted, but looks healthy, it is placed in a plastic bag with peat soil and left in a sufficiently warm and lighted place.

Leaves hatch within 2 weeks

Fuchsia propagation

There are several options for breeding fuchsia:

• Cuttings
• Seed reproduction
• Reproduction using leaves

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings

The breeding period for fuchsias by cuttings falls on the months of February-March, less often it is August-September, for those varieties that grow slowly. The length of the cuttings is about 5-7 cm, they take root in a preferably loose environment: it can be sand or water. After 20-25 days, roots are formed, which means that you can transfer the seedlings to 7-9 cm pots. The composition of the soil mixture contains the content of sand, humus, leaf and sod land. The proportions must be the same.

To get a lush, luxurious bush, you need to plant cuttings in such a way that there are several in one pot. Young will bloom in the same year.

Fuchsia seed propagation

When propagated by seeds, artificial pollination is necessary for their ripening. By independently mixing different varieties of fuchsia, you can get many new hybrids that will delight the eye with their bright, beautiful shades.

Propagation of fuchsia leaves

Reproduction of fuchsia at home using leaves implies the following scheme: you need to tear off the stems in tandem with the most developed leaves and lay them in loose soil no deeper than 1 cm.Then they can be covered. A plastic or glass lid is suitable for this. In order for them to grow well, they need to be sprayed with a spray bottle every day. The water should be boiled and warm. As soon as small rosettes appear at the very base of the stem, it will be possible to start transplanting into small pots.

The main purpose of reproduction is to increase the number of plants.

Rules for cuttings at home

Cutting is one of the most common and easiest ways to propagate flowers. The method is based on the fact that when cutting the apical cutting and rooting it, it forms a new tuber, and the old tuber, in the absence of a growing point, gives new shoots. Also the advantage of this method is that the rooted plant can bloom in the same year.

Reproduction of a plant with an apical cuttings is used to rejuvenate a plant if it is sick, stretched out or does not want to fall asleep. Because when the plant is already middle-aged (more than 2 years old), its tuber needs rest. In this case, we cut off the apical cutting, re-root it and reduce the watering of the mother plant. Thus, gloxinia will go into hibernation.

Attention: Indoor and greenhouse plants can be propagated with apical cuttings at any time of the year. However, gloxinia should be provided with an acceptable temperature of 20-25 ° C, as well as adequate lighting. If there are no such conditions, then it is better to propagate it in spring or summer.

If there are no such conditions, then it is better to propagate it in the spring or summer.

How to seat?

Gloxinia can be propagated and planted in five ways:

Petiolate

1. To grow a flower from a leaf, you need to take one leaf from the bottom of the plant in June-July.
2. Place the leaf stalk in a container of water so that it is submerged in water by 1.5-2 centimeters.
3. Do not change the water, but periodically top up.
4. Keep the leaf in water until young roots form on the handle.
5. After this formation, plant a young shoot in the ground to a depth of 2-3 centimeters.For better rooting, cover the cutting with a glass jar or plastic bag.

Watch a video on the reproduction of gloxinia by leaf cuttings:

Stem cuttings

Cut off the lateral lower shoot with several leaves in an adult gloxinia. Place it in a container of water until roots form, as is the case with a leaf. After the roots appear, plant the plant and root, by forming a greenhouse effect using glass or a bag.

Sheet

1. Cut off the sheet at the very base of the outlet.
2. Cut the leaf plate from the back side across the protruding veins in thickened places.
3. Put the sheet on a moistened ground and press the cuts to the soil.
4. Create a greenhouse effect with film.
5. In the places of the cuts, roots will soon appear, and then small nodules, which then need to be planted according to the standard scheme.

Read more about gloxinia leaf propagation here.

Dividing tubers

1. Only large tubers that have two or more processes are subject to division. It is cut with a knife so that there is a sprout on each part.
2. Slices should be sprinkled with charcoal and dried for 3-5 days.
3. Plant in moist soil, like whole tubers.

Seeds

The seeds of a plant are formed by artificial pollination. On the second day after the blooming of the bud, you need to transfer the pollen to the flower with a small brush. Seeds ripen in boxes within 2 months. Gloxinia seeds are moistened and covered with glass until young shoots form. 2 weeks after germination, the glass is removed and the seedlings are placed in the light.

We talked in more detail about how to grow a flower from seeds in this article.

There are a number of rules for caring for gloxinia at all stages of its growth and development.

Growing temperature

This indicator can vary under different conditions:

• at the stage of tuber germination, the temperature should be - + 25 ° C;
• after rooting - + 18оС - + 22оС;
• at an early stage of vegetation - not lower than + 18 ° C;
• during the active growing season - from + 22 ° C to + 25 ° C.

Air humidity

Gloxinia feels good with an air humidity of 50%, not lower. If it is not possible to organize such conditions, then the permissible limits of this indicator are 70-80%. To increase the moisture readings, it is worth placing a pot with a plant on a pallet:

Do not spray the ground part of the plant, as the gloxinia will get sick, brown dry spots will appear on the leaves and it will die.

Watering

When watering, it is recommended to use only soft water (rain, thawed, boiled, filtered). Water from a pallet or along the edge of the pot to avoid splashing onto the plant. Water for irrigation should be 2-3 degrees warmer than the air temperature. 30 minutes after watering, the remaining water must be drained from the pallet.

Top dressing

No fertilization is required for the first 2 months after planting. Further feeding should be carried out 1 time in 10 days. Before buds appear, organic fertilizers alternate with nitrogen fertilizers.