Step 5: pollination of pelargonium
Pelargonium bloom in the open field
Flowering of pelargoniums on the southern coast of Crimea in November
The nuances of artificial pollination
We have already learned how to create a new rose variety with our own hands (see the post How to create a new rose variety: master class).
Pelargonium is ready for artificial pollination
We do the same with pelargonium, we do not stretch the process in time, but we carry out it in 2 days:
- collecting pollen from the “paternal” specimen on the first day of flowering;
- with tweezers, remove the stamens from the buds of the flowers of the "mother" specimen, which are scheduled for pollination;
- on the second day of flowering, we carry out pollination, applying pollen with a soft brush on the stigmas of the pistils that have protruded from the perianth;
- the next day we repeat pollination of the same flowers.
Growing problems, diseases and pests
The presence of diseases is determined by the general state of the culture and its appearance. Some specimens may have yellowing of the leaf plates, their dryness or lethargy, which can mean serious problems:
- gray spots on the green part indicate the development of gray rot, the source of the lesion is excessive waterlogging of the substrate;
- insufficient lighting is manifested by pulling out shoots and the absence of peduncles;
- a reddish tint of leaf plates appears at low temperatures.
Attacks by parasitic insects have their own symptoms:
- Spider mite - attacks the culture with increased dryness of the indoor air. It is manifested by drying foliage and silvery cobwebs on the green part.
- Mealybug - determined by a whitish bloom on the plates. The attack occurs with constant waterlogging of the soil.
- Whitefly - looks like miniature butterflies. The parasite quickly forms colonies and covers the entire plant.
Important! The onset of symptoms of a lesion requires therapeutic measures to save a sick flower
How to deal with them
For the treatment of fungal pathologies, fungicidal solutions are used. The plant is transplanted into a new container with a fresh substrate, before the procedure, all affected areas are removed and sprinkled with activated carbon powder.
The fight against parasitic insects consists in mechanical processing of the green part with a cotton pad with soapy water and spraying it with insecticidal agents. The event is carried out several times, until the complete destruction of the pests.
It is not difficult to care for pelargonium, if the rules are followed, it will delight with bright buds that do not fade for six months.
Conditions for growing at home
Pelargoniums in general and zonal ones in particular are unpretentious. To provide them with home care, you do not need to withstand specific conditions.
But nevertheless, the plant puts forward certain requirements for annual flowering, and it is better to observe them so that pelargonium regularly releases buds and pleases with its appearance.
Place for a flower
For the development and growth of pelargonium, east or west oriented window sills with bright but diffused light are suitable.
Direct sunlight can cause burns on delicate leaves, so you should not place a flower pot on the south window. But a lack of light will negatively affect the plant - the result of a lack of sun will be the lack of flowering.
Temperature regime
The optimum temperature for a flower in summer is about + 25 ° С, and in winter - about + 15 ° С or slightly lower.
Attention! The seasonal difference is associated with the need to provide the plant with a dormant period.
Air humidity
Pelargonium does not really need regular spraying, but in moments of especially drying summer heat, you can slightly humidify the air around the flower, trying not to get on the leaves, or put a tray of water next to it.
In general, the usual room humidity is quite suitable for pelargonium.
Watering
Pelargoniums do not tolerate too moist heavy soils. Stagnation of moisture causes the development of fungal diseases and sooner or later will lead to the death of the plant.
When watering, you should be guided by the rule: "It is better to dry a little than to pour a little."
Attention! For irrigation, it is worth taking settled water at room temperature.
Soil for zonal pelargonium
An overly nutritious substrate will do a disservice: an excess of trace elements will lead to an abundant build-up of green mass to the detriment of flowering.
Usually, for pelargonium, universal substrates for flowering plants are chosen or mixed independently. In equal shares you will need:
- humus;
- sod land;
- peat.
To prevent root rotting, you can mix brick chips or charcoal into the substrate - they perfectly absorb excess moisture.
Advice! Add some calcined river sand - this will increase the looseness of the soil and its breathability.
Top dressing and fertilization
Pelargonium, like any flowering plant, needs mineral support throughout the entire active cycle (from early spring to late autumn).
But at the same time, nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers are applied at the beginning of spring to stimulate the development of greenery. And after a month, nitrogen is canceled and during irrigation potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied with a frequency of 1 time in 14-17 days.
This mineral support helps the pelargonium to grow as many flowers as possible.
With the end of flowering, feeding is stopped. An excess of nutrients will prevent the plant from going into hibernation, which can lead to a delay or complete absence of flowering next year.
Pelargonium transplant
Young plants that have not reached the age of three are transplanted annually in the spring. This is due to the active development of the root system.
Older plants are transplanted every 2-3 years as the pot becomes small. Manipulation is planned for the spring, after the plant leaves the period of winter dormancy.
Pruning
Like any plant with abundant green mass, pelargonium needs regular sanitary and formative pruning.
Sanitary pruning is carried out throughout the entire period of active growing season, removing all broken or dried leaf plates, faded corollas.
Formative pruning is carried out after the end of flowering:
- All elongated shoots are shortened by 1/3 of the total length.
- The central trunk is cut off.
- Give the bush the desired shape.
But do not radically "shave" the plant: too much pruning is stress for pelargonium, which can lead to a delay in flowering.
Follow-up care
In order for Pelargonium Lake to please with an elegant flowering, it is important to surround the flower with competent regular care.
Temperature regime
Pelargoniums (pelargonium) came from the hot climate of the South American mainland. That is why they need the right temperature.
In the summer it should be +23 .. + 28 degrees, during the rest period (autumn, winter, early spring) - +12 .. + 15 degrees.
Attention! In winter, you cannot put the pot on the windowsill above the battery - dry air is harmful to the plant
Watering and spraying, moisture level
The plant is hygrophilous, the soil is irrigated when the earthen coma dries up. Spraying is not required, but some growers use a spray bottle as a way to destroy dust.
To maintain a comfortable level of humidity, you can put a container of water next to the flower.
Loosening
After each watering, the soil should be carefully loosened to provide oxygen to the roots. This is done carefully, since pelargoniums have a superficial root system
Top dressing
Fertilize the soil for pelargonium Lake should be in the period from March to September. At the same time, ready-made mineral complexes for flowering are used.
During the flowering period, they are fed with potash fertilizers, without using nitrogen-containing ones - they cause rapid foliage growth to the detriment of budding.
The plant needs high-quality care, only in this case it will not lose its decorative effect.
Pruning
It is imperative to pinch the top, otherwise the bush will stretch up strongly, becoming like a "stick". Forms lateral shoots on its own poorly.
Pruning is carried out before the formation of a flower bud.
Common diseases and pests
Despite the fact that the plant is unpretentious and has good immunity, sometimes it succumbs to the effects of diseases and various pests. The main reason is the violation of the rules of care. To make the plant look healthy and beautiful, you need to monitor the irrigation system, loosen the ground and pick off dry leaves that take vitality.
The most famous diseases are the following:
- Fungal diseases. If dark spots began to appear on the leaves, then this indicates the presence of a fungus. To combat the disease, you need to quickly remove all parts that are affected and treat the plant with fungicides. If the disease has not stopped the plant, then it must be transplanted, removing all damaged roots and processing the pot.
- Rust. Spots of yellow-red color appear on the leaves, then they dry up and begin to fall off. Usually the problem occurs due to high temperatures, exposure to direct sunlight. We remove all the affected parts, process the plant and rearrange it in a suitable place.
- Late blight. The plant begins to rot and wilt, rapidly falling off. The reason is abundant watering. If the flower has already been poured, then it needs to be transplanted. During transplantation, we remove all damaged and decaying parts of the plant. We process the pot with a manganese solution.
Ivy-Leaved Pelargoniums
Plants with long, thin stems and tough ivy-like leaves covered with thick cuticles that help reduce moisture loss during drought.
Varieties of this group originated from Pelargonium peltatum, they differ in leaf size, color and shape of flowers, degree of terry, there are varieties with variegated leaves. They are subdivided into:
- true ivy-leaved pelargoniums (Ivy-Leaved Pelargoniums) - this includes varieties and hybrids in which there are practically or completely no signs of zonal pelargoniums.
- Hybrid Ivy-Leaved Pelargoniums - this includes varieties that clearly show signs of both zonal pelargonium and ivy.
Growing problems and pests
The main pests of pelargonium are the root worm, which spoils the roots of the plant, and the whitefly, which likes to settle on the inside of the leaves. Excessive soil moisture contributes to the appearance of the root worm. To combat it, insecticides are used. But in the case of damage to the root system, it is better to say goodbye to the flower, and transplant the cut tops of the plant into new soil.
When creating suitable conditions for a perennial flower, it will delight for a long time with its unique color. The main thing is not to overdo it with watering.
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Winter care
Optimal wintering conditions can be created on a glazed and frost-free, well-lit loggia or in a greenhouse. It is necessary to maintain the minimum temperature at night not lower than + 6 ° C, in the daytime - about + 12 + 15 ° C. In case of overheating on sunny days, open the greenhouse doors for ventilation. Angels, bicolor and tricolor varieties are best kept at higher temperatures, placing them in warmer places in the greenhouse or loggia.
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Good air circulation around the plants is essential, they should not be placed too closely, if necessary, thick roots should be thinned a little. This will help to avoid the occurrence of fungal diseases. Watering this time is rather scarce, experienced flower growers spend it from pallets, clearly measuring the amount of water and determining the time of the next watering by the weight of the pots, while the top of the soil is always left dry.
There are other wintering methods. One is to keep the plants as rooted cuttings and discard the mother plant. The method is used in the summer cultivation of pelargonium in the open air.
The second method is also used for outdoor cultivation: on the eve of frost, the plant is dug up, excess soil is shaken off from the roots, the plant is cut tightly and wrapped in paper, then hung in a cool basement. The room should be well ventilated and high humidity so that the plant does not dry out. In the spring it is planted in a pot, with the onset of heat, it is planted in open ground. You can combine the first and second methods: first take the cuttings, and then send the mother plant to the basement for the winter.
Wintering occurs in the darkest time of the year and lasts approximately 2.5-3 months (from November to February). Already in late January - early February, with an increase in daylight hours, pelargoniums gradually begin to wake up.
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Pelargonium zoned description
Pelargonium zonal differs in large brightly colored flowers, collected in large dense or loose umbellate inflorescences. The flowers are simple, semi-double, double and densely double. The color of the petals is varied - white, pink, bright red of all kinds of shades, lilac, purple. Often two-colored, with a bright eye in the center or a border around the edge. The leaves are round, soft-pubescent, on long cuttings. The color is green with a concentric pattern. There are varieties with brown-leaved and variegated (three-zone). Plant height varies from 15 to 75 cm.
Origin. South and Southwest Africa.
History. The first zonal pelorgonia appeared in Europe at the beginning of the 18th century.
Varieties. The varieties of Pelargonium zonale were obtained by crossing Pelargonium zonale L'Herit. ex Ait with other species - Pelargonium cucullatum Ait. (Pelargonium nodule), Pelargonium inquensis Ait. (Pelargonium settlers), as well as with some other species and forms. There are mutant varieties.
Varieties differ in plant height, shape and color of leaves and flowers.
More than a thousand varieties are known in total.
Varieties: grown from seed:
- Caprice - with coral pink flowers.
- Sprinter - with bright red flowers.
- Ringo - with red flowers.
- Playboy - mixed colors, bronze-tinted leaves, small flowers.
Cerny varieties. :
Yitka F1 - Simple salmon flowers. The leaf is green with a brown tint along the edge.
Blanca F1 - Simple white flowers. The leaf is green with a brown tint along the edge.
Pelargonium 'Yarka F1'
Pelargonium 'Paul' F1
From cuttings grown:
- Paul Krempel - with simple red flowers.
- Irene - with semi-double light cherry flowers.
- Gustav Emich - with red double flowers.
- Youth - with pinkish-orange double flowers.
- Jewelry box - with orange-red double flowers.
Temperature. Seeds germinate at temperatures of 21 ° C and above. The shards must be heated from below (up to 18 ° C). Temper the plants gradually. Geraniums do not tolerate frost.
Illumination. Seedlings indoors need good lighting. Cuttings should be shaded during the rooting period. Mature plants require good lighting on a sunny windowsill, but diffused light is also suitable.
Watering. You can use untouched tap water. The soil in the container should dry out between waterings.
Air humidity. Keep pelargonium zoned dry, do not spray on top.
Top dressing.feed the plant in potting mix once a week; in a soilless substrate - every 3 days. Use liquid fertilizers, diluting them 2 times weaker than the manufacturer recommends. If the plant grows well outdoors, use fertilizer at the manufacturer's recommended concentration.
The soil. Use a soilless substrate for sowing seeds and rooting cuttings. Plant an adult plant in fertile clay soil or houseplant mix.
Transfer. ...
Appearance care. Remove wilted flower umbrellas by cutting off the stems at the base.
Reproduction. From plants planted on the balcony, cut cuttings in mid-summer or early fall. Cut them indoors in early fall or early spring. Root 3-4 cuttings in a 10 cm pot. Heat cuttings of indoor plants from below (18 ° C). Sow seeds in early spring in moist soil and germinate them at a temperature of 18 ° C and above.
Peculiarities. Cuttings. Choose a shoot with at least two bunks of leaves and a growing point and cut the stem under the lower bunks of leaves (about 10 cm long). Trim the cutting diagonally again so that the cut surface is smooth. Remove the bottom two sheets. Dip the cuttings into root hormone powder and deepen near the edge of the pot filled with seedling potting soil.
Usage. One of the most common indoor plants. Excellent material for landscaping balconies. It is used in landscape design for lawn planting as a one-child. In container gardening, in order for the plant to overwinter, it must be brought into the room and kept until next spring in a cold, dry, well-lit place.
Planting and breeding
Pelargonium is propagated vegetatively and by growing from seeds. Each method has its own characteristics associated with the method of work.
Propagation by cuttings
It is considered a simple and highly effective way to get a new plant. To do this, during the next pruning of the bush, cuttings from 10 to 13 cm long are harvested.
Cut off the excess leaves from the bottom and place the cuttings for germination in water or treat with drugs that stimulate root formation and buried in the soil by 2-3 cm.
Roots usually form after three weeks.
Growing from seeds
This is a longer process:
- Seeds are laid out on the surface of the nutrient substrate, without deepening.
- Moisten from a spray bottle and cover the container with glass or film, thus creating a greenhouse.
- The container is placed in a warm, well-lit place, daily opened for a short time for ventilation.
- Water as the topsoil dries up.
After emergence, the film can be removed.
Picking
After the seedlings of pelargonium release 2-3 true leaves, it is time to dive, that is, to plant them in separate pots from a common container.
Important! Do not rush to pick and plant seedlings as soon as they appear. The sprouts need to be given time to grow stronger and form a normal root system .. When picking, do not moisten the soil too much - this can worsen gas exchange, and the seedlings will not take root
No additional fertilizers are applied when picking: everything that is needed for the development of small pelargoniums is already contained in the substrate
When picking, do not moisten the soil too much - this can worsen gas exchange, and the seedlings will not take root. When picking, no additional fertilizers are applied: everything that is needed for the development of small pelargoniums is already contained in the substrate.
Hardening
Since pelargonium is also cultivated as a garden annual, the seedlings are pre-hardened before planting in a permanent place in the flower bed. This procedure helps the tender seedlings adapt to new conditions.
For hardening, the seedlings are taken out for 30-40 minutes, first on a loggia or a closed terrace, and then on the street. The time is gradually increased.Hardening lasts about a week, sometimes two weeks.
Important! During hardening, the air temperature should not be lower than +10 ° С.
When to pinch seedlings
In order for the pelargonium bush to give abundant lateral shoots, to be lush and voluminous, in the phase of formation of 6 leaves, the stem is pinched. This procedure also helps to achieve more lush flowering.
Sowing dates
Pelargonium seeds are planted from early February to late March, at the latest in the first half of April. After that, landing is almost meaningless.
Seed preparation for sowing
To improve seed germination, scarification is carried out - parts of the dense seed coat are removed by mechanical action or soaking.
To do this, it is recommended to rub the seeds a little between two sheets of fine sandpaper and soak for 1.5-2 hours in water at room temperature.
The second option is to pour boiling water over the seeds, and then with cold water, pour the seed material with hot water and leave it for a day.
